On the VAZ-2114, the generator is an electrical three-phase device that operates with alternating current. This device is equipped with a whole block of rectifiers used to convert alternating current into direct current. The main parts of this installation are:
- Aluminum covers (back and front), which have specially designated areas for bearings. On the back cover you can find a terminal designed to connect the generator to the battery. There is also a connector there that is used to supply voltage to the winding. On the same back cover you can find a capacitor used to overcome any radio interference.
- Stator core cylinder. On the above car, it is made of special iron called “transformer”. Inside there are grooves into which, in fact, the winding is placed. There are also leads for its further connection to the rectifier unit.
- The field winding is located on the rotor shaft. It connects to special slip rings made of copper. In front of this shaft there is a keyway on which the drive pulley is mounted.
- The brushes in this generator are made of a single unit, which is combined with an electronic relay. It, in turn, is hidden under a fairly durable metal casing and is attached to the brush holder.
- The diode block is attached to the back cover. It consists of 9 parts, 3 of which are optional. The diodes are installed on special metal plates shaped like a semicircle. Due to this, semiconductors receive better cooling.
Mechanical breakdowns
If there is a mechanical breakdown of the generator, loud noise appears during its operation. But it also happens that this equipment begins to make unusual noise due to the fact that the bearings are worn out too much. Most often, the bearing located on the front cover requires replacement. It is he who takes on the highest radial loads, and therefore his service life is significantly shorter than the others.
By the way, if the drive belt is tightened too much, the load increases, which means the bearing will last much less.
Electrical breakdowns
You can understand that an electrical breakdown has occurred in the generator by the following indicators:
- the charge voltage has decreased;
- the charge voltage has increased;
- The generator stopped charging altogether.
If you don’t have a multimeter at hand, you can determine the malfunction using the following parameters:
- The battery sensor blinks or is constantly on;
- the headlights began to shine quite dimly, even when the engine was running;
- wipers work much slower than before;
- The electrolyte in the battery is boiling, while the headlights are shining very brightly.
It should be understood that you can superficially check the operation of the generator without removing it. But if such a check does not bring the necessary results, then dismantling the generator simply cannot be done.
Comments • 16
I don’t know, I have the factory one. Simple 13.8. Not more. There's a lot of 14.2.14.3. Even though I put in a lot of music
Does it fit from the Priora without any modifications to the fasteners?
Suitable if the engine is injected. I don’t know about carburetor ones, I haven’t seen them
Hello, are you from Krasnoyarsk?
@Eugene Siberian can I find you on Instagram or VK?)
Good afternoon) where can I get such a dashboard for 14
Greetings! Car markets, websites and VK groups for the sale of spare parts and tuning for VAZs. The device is called Flash X3
Has your problem gone away?
@Eugene Siberian got it, thanks
Low voltage? After replacing the generator, everything went away, stable 13.7 and above with consumers turned on
I have 16 cells on my 2112, there is also a voltage drop for a second, there is such a regulator, please tell me, replacing the regulator solves the voltage drop when releasing the gas?
if you have trt or trw, I don’t remember the exact name, in general, it’s Chinese, then replacing it with Russian 849.3702 or 897.3702 should fix the drawdown when releasing gas
Who knows, Priorovsky generators are suitable for mounting on a VAZ 2114-2115 1.6. 8kl? 9402.3701-14 115A
You also need to look at the voltage regulator. It's either Russian or Chinese. If it is Chinese, then when you release the gas there will be a drawdown for a second
Yes, that’s right, either drill it out or buy new ones with a larger diameter, the generator itself fits in exactly the same way and the belt fits
@Eugene Siberian, as I understand it, you need to drill out 2 terminals and buy a connector for the signal lamp? I just didn’t understand anything from the video, the nuances, but actually everything is off topic.
Yes they fit no problem
In this video I installed such a generator. I also have a 1.6 8kl
make dubbings I have dubbings 14.4 everything I can include 14. exactly
@Aa Aa from the generator to the battery, I personally have 25 kg on both + and - and on the body there is an additional kg - 35
cool, gotta do it
The bolt must be installed on the other side once it has been removed. So as not to twist the wheels next time.
It’s easier to remove the bracket in one without any problems with pressing on the engine and even more so bending the body iron. I don’t know how anyone has it, but on my car there is a seat for 6 edges under the head of the bolt, and if you put it the other way around, the length of the bolt may simply not be enough, and you’ll have to struggle with attaching the nut. From the entire video, I essentially didn’t learn anything about what fits and what doesn’t, I only learned about the wire to the signal light on the panel. There’s essentially nothing to disassemble and assemble to explain. Tomorrow I’ll go get a new one, I don’t trust the old one anymore, although I invested a little over 1000 in it, bearings, slip rings, in the end I’ll scatter it for spare parts, I specially went to the service center, they called, they put it on a stand, everything is fine, after installation this demon stopped again charge after some time. As a result, I removed this goat in the evening in frost below 40 without a pit in an iron garage, again I installed a replacement in no better condition from another car, so the generator, not mine, ended up in the car again. The video is absolutely not informative; it does not correspond to the title “All the nuances of installation on a VAZ”.
I have a nine carb, the generator is weak, it doesn’t play music, can I put a generator like yours on it? And what will you have to do?
The generator on the VAZ-2114, which generates electricity while the car is moving and thereby recharges the battery, is primarily a mechanism. The latter, as you know, tend to break. A malfunction in the operation of the car's electronics can be caused by a malfunction of the generator. Fortunately, everyone can check it for functionality, select a new part and replace the worn one. But before you start practicing, you need to gain some theoretical knowledge.
Self-removal of the generator on a VAZ-2114
The generator is supported by a special bracket located on the engine block. In order to dismantle this device, you will need the following tools:
- head at 15;
- open-end wrench 17×19;
- wrenches, sizes 10 and 13;
- the most common mount.
To remove the generator, perform the following steps:
- Disconnect the terminals from the battery.
- First we loosen and then remove the belt.
- We dismantle the tensioning mechanism.
- We disconnect all the wires from the generator that are hidden in the case.
- We disconnect the wire responsible for supplying voltage to the winding.
- The generator is secured with a nut and a long bolt, which is quite difficult to pull out. To do this, you must first unscrew all the bolts holding the bracket to the block and turn this device clockwise.
- Unscrew the nut and pull it out with the bushing.
Useful video
You can get additional information on this issue by watching the video below:
- Repair of VAZ 2114 stove: radiator (heater) and other components
- On-board computer VAZ 2114: purpose, functions, main errors
- VAZ 2114 ECU: types, operating principles and diagnostics
One day the car stopped starting from a dead battery, I charged the battery and drove it for 3 days after which it was discharged again. At that time I was still just a novice motorist, so I immediately thought that the battery was faulty, I bought a new one in the store, brought it and installed it, literally 5 days later the car would not start again because the battery was dead. I went to the store and demanded a replacement, after much persuasion from the manager, they finally agreed to replace the battery. Well, history repeated itself, then I realized that I had to go to a car service center; they didn’t tell me about the generator malfunction. This is how I unknowingly killed a lot of nerves and time.
Good day to all!
In general, about two months ago I changed the bearings in the gene, but I didn’t put it in the log book because the process was not photographed, and after this time the bearings began to hum again. After driving like this for several days, I said “Stop putting up with this” and drove to a friend’s garage for pit.
We will need:
***bearings 202 and 302 (I personally have these, BATE generator), if you don’t know which ones you have, then first remove them and go to the store) ***generator bearing puller ***brushes (if you haven’t climbed there for a long time, or not changed them, grab them at the same time, I changed mine recently)
I will describe the process of removing and disassembling the generator (I apologize for the quality of the filming, I filmed it on my phone):
1.Remove the negative terminal from the battery 2.Remove the + and - contacts, we will need a key for 10.
3. Loosen the generator position lock with a 13 key and unscrew the long bolt for adjustment, it is 10
4. You can remove the generator in different ways, I personally remove it together with the fasteners because it takes 2 minutes, there are 15 bolts.
5. Next on the table I remove the mount itself from the generator, there is a long bolt at 13. I remove it together with the fastener because it is this bolt that rests on the spar.
6.Next, we remove the pulley from the generator. It seems like a 22mm head is needed, and it is advisable to have a vice. We insert a screwdriver or something else through the generator, thereby blocking the pulley from turning (just be careful, do not bend the blades). Because the first ones once when I was changing the bearings of the generator, we had a vice, we were able to unscrew it without much difficulty, now the vice was already broken and we just inserted screwdrivers: one held the generator from turning, and I unscrewed the pulley nut.
7. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the front and rear covers of the generator, there are four of them (I advise you to spray it with WD40, and in general, spray everything there, spray the entire generator)))) You will also make marks so that you can put them correctly later.
10.After you have removed the front cover, turn it over and place the 22nd head on the bearing, knock it out with a hammer and immediately drive the new bearing through the old one, this can be done without any problems, just be careful.
11.Next, remove the back plastic cover (it opens with 3 latches), unscrew the brushes. 12.Pull out the rotor (I got it out without any problems)
13.Take a puller and remove the bearing.
14. Install the new bearing by driving in the old one. New bearing - old one on top - head on top, and carefully drive it in.
And put everything back together in the reverse order, first having a little smoke break))!
I hope you find this useful, thank you all for your attention! =)
Problems with the brush assembly
The performance of the brush assembly directly depends on the electronic controller and the brushes themselves. By the way, it is possible to replace the brushes without dismantling the generator, however, this is quite inconvenient.
In order to check whether the brush assembly is working, you need to take a 12-volt light bulb and an regulated power source. Connect the light bulb to the brush, and the power regulators “+” and “-”. Thanks to this action, the light bulb should light up immediately. If the input voltage is increased to 15 Volts, the light should go out. But if it continues to burn at 16 Volts, the electronic regulator should be replaced.
The wear of the brushes themselves can be determined by the following parameters:
- complete lack of battery charge;
- The charging voltage constantly fluctuates;
- The on-board network voltage is lower than specified.
COMMENTARE • 16
I don’t know, I have the factory one. Simple 13.8. Not more. There's a lot of 14.2.14.3. Even though I put in a lot of music
Does it fit from the Priora without any modifications to the fasteners?
Suitable if the engine is injected. I don’t know about carburetor ones, I haven’t seen them
Hello, are you from Krasnoyarsk?
@Eugene Siberian can I find you on Instagram or VK?)
Good afternoon) where can I get such a dashboard for 14
Greetings! Car markets, websites and VK groups for the sale of spare parts and tuning for VAZs. The device is called Flash X3
Has your problem gone away?
@Eugene Siberian got it, thanks
Low voltage? After replacing the generator, everything went away, stable 13.7 and above with consumers turned on
I have 16 cells on my 2112, there is also a voltage drop for a second, there is such a regulator, please tell me, replacing the regulator solves the voltage drop when releasing the gas?
if you have trt or trw, I don’t remember the exact name, in general, it’s Chinese, then replacing it with Russian 849.3702 or 897.3702 should fix the drawdown when releasing gas
Who knows, Priorovsky generators are suitable for mounting on a VAZ 2114-2115 1.6. 8kl? 9402.3701-14 115A
You also need to look at the voltage regulator. It's either Russian or Chinese. If it is Chinese, then when you release the gas there will be a drawdown for a second
Yes, that’s right, either drill it out or buy new ones with a larger diameter, the generator itself fits in exactly the same way and the belt fits
@Eugene Siberian, as I understand it, you need to drill out 2 terminals and buy a connector for the signal lamp? I just didn’t understand anything from the video, the nuances, but actually everything is off topic.
Yes they fit no problem
In this video I installed such a generator. I also have a 1.6 8kl
make dubbings I have dubbings 14.4 everything I can include 14. exactly
@Aa Aa from the generator to the battery, I personally have 25 kg on both + and - and on the body there is an additional kg - 35
cool, gotta do it
The bolt must be installed on the other side once it has been removed. So as not to twist the wheels next time.
It’s easier to remove the bracket in one without any problems with pressing on the engine and even more so bending the body iron. I don’t know how anyone has it, but on my car there is a seat for 6 edges under the head of the bolt, and if you put it the other way around, the length of the bolt may simply not be enough, and you’ll have to struggle with attaching the nut. From the entire video, I essentially didn’t learn anything about what fits and what doesn’t, I only learned about the wire to the signal light on the panel. There’s essentially nothing to disassemble and assemble to explain. Tomorrow I’ll go get a new one, I don’t trust the old one anymore, although I invested a little over 1000 in it, bearings, slip rings, in the end I’ll scatter it for spare parts, I specially went to the service center, they called, they put it on a stand, everything is fine, after installation this demon stopped again charge after some time. As a result, I removed this goat in the evening in frost below 40 without a pit in an iron garage, again I installed a replacement in no better condition from another car, so the generator, not mine, ended up in the car again. The video is absolutely not informative; it does not correspond to the title “All the nuances of installation on a VAZ”.
I have a nine carb, the generator is weak, it doesn’t play music, can I put a generator like yours on it? And what will you have to do?
Pokazuvati elementi keruvannya progravachem
- Published on March 16, 2020
- Motorring spare parts store - motorring.ru/?EugeneSiberian 7% discount using promo code "Siberian" UA-cam channel Motorring - ua-cam.com/channels/o3D3HPCRg_G2dBJa9DLaqg.htmlvideos Hello everyone!:) In this series we install a generator from the Priora KZATE 115A for VAZ 2114. I tell you all the nuances of this installation, what needs to be improved in order to install the generator on the VAZ 2108-15. Enjoy watching!:) Auto and transport
Problems with the diode post
Checking the serviceability of the diode bridge is quite simple. The fact that it is faulty is indicated by either increased voltage or lack of charge. You should not delay repairs, as this may result in serious problems in the vehicle's electrical network.
But the diode bridge can fail only in the event of a breakdown of the power diodes. They can be replaced if necessary. True, sometimes some problems arise with this. The fact is that finding power diodes is quite difficult. You may have to make an exciting journey through the disassembly of a VAZ-2114, but it is much faster and easier to replace the old diode bridge with a new one.
Symptoms of generator malfunctions, diagnosis and repair
So, problems with the generator are often indicated by the fact that the battery light on the instrument panel lights up. This indicates problems with charging the battery from the generator. Problems can also manifest themselves in the form of a constant discharge of the battery or undercharging of the battery. Also a sign of problems is overcharging the battery (the battery is “boiling”, the electrolyte is boiling away, etc.).
Problems with the generator will also be indicated by dim headlights when the engine is running, voltage surges in the on-board network, and the appearance of extraneous noise in the generator area after starting the internal combustion engine. One way or another, if everything is fine with the battery itself, then you should check the generator.
Briefly, the list of main problems:
- A common problem is the fuse. If it burns out, it needs replacement. It is also important to determine the cause of burnout. To do this, you should check the power circuits, connections of the “zero” to other contacts, etc.
- If the diagnostics do not reveal problems with the wires, terminals and contacts, the generator elements should be checked. Often, the list of main faults includes failure of the generator brushes (severe wear, destruction).
Let us add that if the brushes need to be replaced, then the brush holder also needs to be replaced. In turn, the contact rings do not need to be changed; they just need to be cleaned with a cleaner. Experts also highlight malfunctions of the voltage regulator, breakage or delamination of the generator belt, jammed bearing, etc.
In any case, each of these problems can damage the generator. Moreover, many problems tend to actively progress. Some of the breakdowns, if not repaired in a timely manner, lead to the need to replace the VAZ 2114 generator.
