Why the charger on the VAZ 2107 disappeared - we look for and fix problems

The Soviet and Russian car VAZ-2107 is a classic of the domestic automobile industry of the last century. Despite the fact that this car has a truly huge margin of safety, as the years go by, various parts and functional components of the vehicle begin to fail.

Often, drivers of the legendary “Seven” are faced with battery failure. The lamp indicating that the device is working simply stops lighting, and the electric battery itself refuses to charge. This article describes in detail why the VAZ-2107 battery loses charging, and what to do about it.

Generator VAZ 2107 purpose and main functions

The performance of the battery on a VAZ-2107, as on many other cars, depends on three main parts: a generator, a voltage regulator, and connection systems for these two devices.

A machine generator set, a generator, is an element that performs the task of providing electricity to various components of the car, as well as providing a constant charge to the battery. The main components of the generator set include:

• housing with windings;
• anchor;
• current rectifier;
• stabilizer.

The generator set operates through a drive - a belt passing from the crankshaft pulley.

Voltage regulator

And most importantly, the VAZ-2107 charging lamp is connected to the excitation winding through a voltage regulator. The latter allows you to maintain the voltage at the same level - within 13.6-14.2 V. The design of the regulator can be absolutely any, the following designs are distinguished:

1. Mechanical - work on electromagnetic relays.
2. Electromechanical - work on electromagnetic relays and transistor switches. A kind of combined scheme.
3. Electronic regulators - consist of a single crystal on which a switching circuit is made. Essentially, this is one large power switch that allows switching to maintain the required voltage level.

No charging - signs

A situation in which the generator has ceased to perform its main tasks of providing electrical energy to the battery can be determined using the following symptoms:

• the battery loses charge at an increased rate;
• frequent signals from the corresponding lamp on the dashboard;
• The performance level of electrical appliances in the car has decreased.

A driver who notices one of these situations, or all at once, will be able to conclude that the on-board generator is faulty.

Signal lamp

The Russian VAZ-2107 car is equipped with an on-board instrument panel, on the panel of which there are indicators indicating, among other things, the presence of structural problems. One of the lights is responsible for transmitting information regarding the stability of the generator: if the circuit is operating normally, the indicator lights up only when ignited, exactly until the propulsion system starts.

Please note: proper operation of the unit means that the warning light should go out immediately after the engine is started. If the indicator continues to light, there is a problem in the circuit.

Battery drains quickly

Problems that occur during operation of the generator set will immediately affect the state of charge of the battery. A faulty generator will not be able to provide the required level of electrical voltage necessary to properly charge the battery. The driver can determine the insufficient amount of charge in the battery by the occurrence of difficulties when starting the engine.

Reduced electrical performance

Since the generator works to provide on-board electrical devices with the required amount of energy, its malfunctions will lead to malfunctions in the operation of various devices. A driver who suspects a malfunction should try to put into operation any components that require electricity to function: for example, turn on the headlights or heating unit.

A decrease in the performance of these devices - insufficiently bright light and weak fan rotation - will be signs of generator failure.

Theory “on fingers”: how everything works

On the VAZ 2107, devices can receive power from 2 sources. The first is the battery, the second is the generator. The battery supplies energy when the engine is turned off. It has a certain charge, consumed as needed. The generator produces electricity, but only if the rotor is spinning. That is, with the engine running.

Battery operation diagram: 1. Battery, 2. Negative diode, 3. Additional diode, 4. Generator, 5. Positive diode, 6. Stator winding, 7. Regulator, 8. Rotor winding, 9. Capacitor, 10. Mounting block, 11. Control lamp, 12. Voltmeter, 13. Ignition relay, 14. Lock.

The battery charge is used to start the engine. When the engine starts running, the battery energy is not consumed: the generator supplies all devices with it. A charge is also supplied to it to restore wasted energy. But if the battery is not charging, its own energy will be enough for a limited number of starts. The battery will then be completely discharged. And the car owner will have to solve the problem of how to start a VAZ 2107 if the battery is dead. After all, not everyone has “crocodiles” in their trunk, and not everyone will agree to share electricity with their battery.

Reasons for lack of charging

There are a number of main reasons why the VAZ-2107 battery stops charging:

• drive belt deformation;
• loosening of the drive belt;
• damage to wiring or oxidation of terminals;
• problems in the rectifier area;
• regulator damage;
• violation of the integrity of the generator windings.

Each malfunction can lead to a lack of high-quality battery charge.

Belt break

According to the technical documentation, the drive belt should be replaced every fifty thousand kilometers. Such a breakdown is not extremely dangerous only if its presence was detected as soon as possible. A broken belt can lead to heating of the engine part - therefore, when the corresponding signals appear on the on-board panel, you should immediately check the integrity of this unit. This can be done through a visual inspection of the generator part of the machine.

Loosening the belt

The drive belt is a functional unit of the generator set that operates under constant physical tension. The main sign that the belt is loose is a characteristic whistling sound that gets worse in rainy or humid weather. The indicator may not inform the driver about such a malfunction, so you should monitor the belt tension level yourself.

Open circuit and terminal oxidation

The battery of a VAZ-2107 car will stop charging if the wires connecting various parts of the generator set are broken. The electrical circuit that provides a constant charge to the machine battery is extremely simple: a single cable connects the storage device to the terminal on the generator. In order to determine the problem, you should check for contact between the specified nodes.

Input and output terminals may also degrade due to long-term use. You can check their quality condition through visual inspection.

Failure of the rectifier module

A rectifier is a device responsible for converting alternating current into direct current. The unit is made in the form of a board that includes several silicon diodes, each of which can break. If the diode is broken, the rectifier ceases to perform its main task, as a result of which the unit must be replaced.

Regulator failure

A regulator is a device responsible for stabilizing the voltage supplied to the battery. In the event of a breakdown, it must be immediately replaced, since it is not possible to repair the unit.

Malfunction of phase windings

The generator windings are the main functional part of the installation. If a break or short circuit occurs, the device simply stops performing its tasks. Such a breakdown can be determined by the appearance of a characteristic burning smell, as well as by the noise effects noticeable when the element is operating. Diagnosis of such problems is carried out by removing the generator and thoroughly inspecting it.

Fuse relay is faulty

Another possible problem is a faulty relay. Some car modifications are equipped with a relay that monitors the battery charge light on the instrument panel. As soon as the relay fails, the indicator does not work either.

Fuse relay VAZ 2107

To test the relay, you should arm yourself with a multimeter. They measure the current at the positive output of the relay. If the voltage is less than 6V, then there is clearly a problem with the generating device. If the value is even higher, then the relay is faulty. It needs replacing.

Thus, finding out the reason why the battery light does not light is extremely important for adjusting the indicator and protecting the car from more serious malfunctions.

What to do if the battery is boiling

You can conclude that the VAZ-2107 battery is “boiling” if the following problems occur:

• the corresponding indicator stops lighting;
• the voltmeter behaves inappropriately, and its needle goes to the right;
• A characteristic odor appears in the car interior.

“Boiling” of the battery is caused by problems with the voltage stabilizer. It is strictly forbidden to continue driving the car in such a situation: this can lead to breakdowns of all electrical equipment in the car. In order to get to the service center with safety for yourself and the car, you should forcefully turn off the generator set.

This can be done by physically removing the wire from the terminal with the abbreviation “61” located on the generator itself. The car will continue to move solely using the accumulated charge.

Confronting attackers

Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”

Experts offer several options for preventing theft.

• Secure parking or secure garage.
• installation .
• Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
• Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
• Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.

But all experts agree that the most reliable protection for the VAZ 2107 battery against theft is comprehensive. A combination of multidirectional measures will give the best results!

Diagnostics and repair work

The diagnostic measures necessary to identify problems with the battery not charging are carried out in the following order:

• you should stop driving and turn off the engine;
• lift the hood and conduct a visual inspection of the belt;
• Check the belt tension using a screwdriver or other tool. The normal deviation is 12-17mm;
• If the belt is loose, tighten it. To do this, pick up a 17mm wrench and unscrew the mount of the generator to the bracket. Using a screwdriver, move the unit to the side away from the cylinders. Tighten the fastener and recheck the tension;
• Check for contact between the battery and the alternator using a tester. This can be done by attaching the device to the positive on the battery and the terminal with the abbreviation “30” located on the installation. If the tester does not indicate the presence of contact, replace the cable;
• Using a voltmeter, obtain voltage data at the battery terminals. The normal indicator is 11-12 volts, in working condition - 13.5-14 volts.

If the data obtained is not comparable with normal values, the breakdown should be looked for in the functional components of the generator set, after removing it from the machine.

Alternator belt tension

Tensioning the generator drive belt is quite simple. To do this, you need to unscrew the fastening that mounts the unit to the corresponding bracket, using a 17 key. Using some kind of pry bar of a suitable size, move the generator towards the cylinders. Next, you need to tighten the fastener, and then perform another tension check. The normal deviation of a tensioned belt ranges from 12mm to 17mm.

Video belt tension

More information about tensioning the alternator belt is described in this video:

Dismantling the generator

In case of breakdowns in the rectifier, stabilizer or windings, the generator set must be dismantled. This can be done according to the following step-by-step instructions:

• open the hood, disconnect the wires coming from the unit to the battery;
• using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut at the place where the unit is attached to the bracket;
• move the generator into the cylinder area using a screwdriver or a suitable pry bar;
• remove the belt;
• disconnect the terminal block;
• unscrew the nut from the terminal under the abbreviation “30”, then move the wires to the side;
• unscrew the nut that secures the generator housing to the bracket. Remove the fastening bolt;
• Remove the generator set by sliding it to the bottom of the vehicle.

Next, you can carry out diagnostic and then repair work to replace the functional elements of the generator.

Video of generator removal

For more information on how to remove the generator from a VAZ-2107 car, see this video:

Checking the stabilizer rectifier module and windings

To carry out diagnostic work to check the operability of the rectifier, you should prepare a multifunction tester and two pieces of cable with clamps. Next, perform the following steps:

• set the tester to the mode for obtaining data on the resistance indicator;
• look at the resistance between the terminal with the abbreviation “30” and ground. If the indicator is close to zero, there is a short circuit in the rectifier windings or a breakdown of its silicon diode;
• Check positive directional silicon diodes for breakdown. The tester is connected to the terminal with the abbreviation “30” and to any bolt. If the resistance approaches zero, there is a breakdown;
• check the functionality of the negative silicon diodes by attaching the tester probe between the fixing bolt of the device and its body. A breakdown can be concluded if the resistance indicator is zero.

This concludes the diagnostic work. If problems occur, the rectifier should be replaced.

Generator repair

If the generator set has been dismantled and problems are found in its component parts, work should be done to replace them. Repair of the VAZ-2107 generator is carried out as follows:

• fix the impeller with a screwdriver;
• unscrew the fixing bolts;
• remove the pulley parts;
• unscrew the bolts securing the cover. Take out the pin;
• use a hammer to knock off the stator cover;
• remove the bushing located under the front cover, which also needs to be removed;
• knock out the rotor with gentle blows of a hammer;
• unscrew the nuts securing the rectifier to the winding terminals;
• unscrew the nut with the abbreviation “30” and remove the washer;
• replace structural elements;
• assemble the device;

This completes the work of replacing generator parts.

Trouble-shooting

The warning lamp and sensor (on-board voltmeter) show the presence of a charge, and the battery is flat, but checking with a multimeter shows a normal voltage of 13.6-14.2 V at the battery terminals. When a large load is turned on (for example, high beam headlights), the gauge arrow turns white scale sector.

The cause may also be a breakdown of one of the negative diodes, a burnout of one of the positive diodes of the rectifier, or a break in one of the stator phase windings. When the engine is not running, the negative diodes are checked: the “+” terminal of the battery is disconnected from the vehicle network and a test lamp is connected to it. Use the lamp leg to touch each of the three bolts securing the generator rectifier unit. If the lamp is on, the negative diode connected to the bolt is broken.

To check the positive diodes, connect the “+” terminal and disconnect the “-” terminal from the body, to which the test lamp is connected. Again, use the lamp leg to touch each of the three bolts securing the generator rectifier unit. Burning of the lamp also means breakdown of the positive diode. If you have a multimeter, simply measure the resistance of the diodes in the polarity in which the diode should be locked: for negative diodes “+” to the bolts, and “-” to the body, for positive diodes “+” to terminal “30” of the generator, and “ -" - to the bolts. A diode rectifier with a broken diode is completely replaced.

The break of one of the branches of the stator winding is checked by ringing them with a multimeter or a “tester” with a battery between the two bolts of the rectifier unit. The absence of contact of any winding with each of the two remaining ones indicates its breakage, and the generator must be repaired or replaced.

Check the generator brushes

Another reason could be wear on the generator brushes. The brush assembly from the PP is removed. If the brushes are less than 5 mm long, the unit is replaced with a new one. If the brushes are not worn out, they should be inspected for the possibility of distortion and “sticking” in the housing wells.

The charge lamp does not light up when the ignition is turned on. The charge sensor and other control devices do not work. The generator did not charge.

The cause of this malfunction is that fuse F10 (10 A) has blown. If nothing has changed after replacement, look for the reasons in the ignition lock or relay (if installed).

When the ignition is turned on, the control lamp does not light up. The charge sensor and other control devices are working. The generator does not charge.

The wire is disconnected from plug “61” of the generator and shorted to ground. If the lamp is on when the ignition is on, the generator excitation winding is faulty or there is no contact in the plug itself. The surfaces of the pins are cleaned, the bends of the plug connectors are pressed, and connected. It is checked again and if the charge lamp does not light up again, the plugs Ш5-Ш10 of the mounting block and the pins in the connector of the block with the instrument panel are cleaned. If there is no result, then the lamp itself has burned out. To replace a light bulb, the instrument panel is removed, the socket is removed from behind the panel, and the lamp is changed.

The battery light comes on when the ignition is turned on. When the engine is idling, the charge lamp lights up dimly, charging disappears or there is no charging at all.

The reason may be poor contact of the pin of the wire connection block to the instrument panel. It is attached with a rivet and often oxidizes. If you solder it to the board track, this problem is eliminated. Also, loose contact at the connection points along the wire path from the shield to plug “61” of the generator gives the same symptoms.

To check the excitation winding for an open circuit, use a multimeter probe to touch the rotor rings with the brush assembly removed - the working winding shows a slight resistance. When one probe touches the ring and the other touches the shaft or rotor housing, check for a winding short to ground. To check the voltage regulator relay, connect the “+” battery to the top contact, and “-” to the left one, and measure the voltage on the brushes. It should be 12 V. If not, the relay must be replaced.

How to change a bearing

During generator repair, the bearing should be checked for play and replaced if necessary. There are two bearings on it: rear 6201 (article - 180201) - 12x32x10, front 6302 (article - 180302) - 15x42x13. For this:

1. Remove terminal 30 (nut 6);

2. Unscrew two screws and remove the voltage regulator;
3. The pulley nut is dismantled;

4. The key is removed;
5. The bearing lining is dismantled;

6. With the help of a device (or without), the old bearing is pressed out and a new one is installed;

7. The retaining plate is secured.