The main function of the heating system of any car is to create and maintain a comfortable microclimate in the cabin. In addition, the stove prevents glass fogging and removes frost from them during the cold season. Therefore, maintaining the heating system in working order is important for any car owner.
- Improvement of the heating system
Fan replacementVideo: modification of the VAZ 2107 stove
- The stove does not turn off in the summer
Video: replacing the radiator of a VAZ 2107 stove
- Fan motor
Heater removal
After the coolant has drained and the necessary tools have been prepared, you can begin disassembly. It is carried out in the following order:
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- In the engine compartment, loosen the two clamps that secure the hoses to the heater pipes. When the hoses are pulled together, a small amount of antifreeze will leak out.
Having unscrewed the clamps, pull the hoses off the radiator tubes.
Unscrew the screws and remove the rubber seal.
Unscrew the screws and remove the rubber seal
We move into the cabin, unscrew the fastening of the shelf under the glove compartment and remove it.
Remove the panel with the clock and cigarette lighter by unscrewing the screws on the right, left and bottom.
To remove the panel with the clock and cigarette lighter, you will need to unscrew the corresponding screws
Disconnect the wires from the cigarette lighter and the clock, and then move the panel to the side.
Disconnect the wires from the cigarette lighter and clock
We dismantle the internal cavity of the glove compartment in order to move the right air duct aside and provide access to the heater valve. The left air duct is also dismantled (when the stove is completely removed).
Using a 7 key, unscrew the bolt that secures the crane control cable.
Using a 7 key, unscrew the cable fastener
To partially disassemble the stove, you will need to dismantle the lower part of the housing. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry up the metal latches (2 on the right and 2 on the left).
To remove the lower part of the heater you will need to pry off 4 latches with a screwdriver
After removing the latches, pull the lower part towards you and gain access to the motor. If repair or replacement work is required for this unit, we will carry it out.
After dismantling the lower part, access to the heater fan opens
To dismantle the radiator, we take it out of the housing along with the tap.
To remove the radiator, simply pull it towards you.
To completely dismantle the stove, remove the upper part of the body, which is secured with four 10mm wrench bolts.
To completely remove the stove, you need to unscrew 4 10mm wrench bolts.
- We unscrew the 2 bolts securing the heater control bracket and loosen the screws that hold the rod mounting brackets.
- We remove the remaining part of the stove.
When the fasteners are unscrewed, remove the upper part of the stove body
Video: replacing the heater radiator on a VAZ 2107
In most cases, complete removal of the heater is not necessary. As a rule, the radiator, faucet or motor are replaced.
If you are only replacing the radiator, it would be a good idea to inspect the electric motor and lubricate it.
Modification of the stove - installation of a pump from GAZelle
The material was provided by a user of our forum “Olezhek”, for which many thanks to him. For a long time, the noise of the stove was disturbing and the poor airflow of the left driver's window irritated me. On the advice of members of the forum (from autolada.ru), I completely disassembled the stove and cut out the third engine support for the stove (the one that is directed towards the engine), leaving the motor on bushings (about which later I literally regretted it for a couple of months and had to disassemble it again and replaced it with a bearing one) after this alteration, the blowing into the left air duct became much stronger, with the lid closed, but I think that I still need to cut off one jumper that I did not cut off the first time.
- Read more about Updating the stove - installing a pump from GAZelle
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Causes of heater radiator malfunction
A simple device consisting of systemically arranged tubes of the same diameter. To increase heat transfer, all tubes are equipped with thin metal lamellas. At first glance, there is absolutely nothing to break, but the radiator of the car interior heater often fails. Especially if the car is more than ten years old. There are two reasons for the streak:
- The radiator is leaking: the joints of the parts have dried out, the result of metal corrosion or mechanical damage.
- It has stopped heating or is heating, but weakly: obstruction of the tubes due to the high content of oxidation products in the system or the presence of foreign debris combined with oxidation particles.
If the radiator leaks, it can only be fixed by replacing the gaskets at the joints, if this is the cause. If the stove itself is leaking, it is necessary to solder the leak or change the heat exchanger. Some car enthusiasts try to solder the leak, but this can be done if the radiator tubes are copper-brass. However, there is no guarantee that the leak will not appear again.
If the radiator is clogged, you can do some manipulations that will lead to cleaning the device. There are various chemicals for this purpose, and there are also traditional methods, but they do not always help. If the result is achieved, then this result is temporary. No methods or means will clean the stove radiator completely.
The only correct solution in such a situation is to replace the failed stove radiator with a new one. Does it make sense to waste your free time, doing a lot of work, in order to try to fix a device that is not guaranteed to work for a long time.
The cost of a new radiator is not so high as to require repairing the old one, and besides, you can replace it yourself without going to a service station.
Reasons for decreased performance
In addition to obvious malfunctions due to which the stove does not work or functions incorrectly, there are other problems with the heating system of the VAZ-2107 interior. The main one is a decrease in stove performance.
If the stove heats poorly, then the reason lies in:
- Malfunctions of the power plant cooling system (reduced pump performance, stuck thermostat).
- Radiator clogged.
- Formation of an air lock in the heater radiator.
- The air intake damper seal is worn out.
To find the cause of decreased performance, start by checking the heating of the heater radiator. To do this, heat the engine to operating temperature, fully open the antifreeze supply valve to the stove and hand check the degree of heating of the supply pipe before and after the valve and the radiator itself. If the pipeline is hot before the tap, but not after it, the tap is jammed. If the radiator does not warm up, the reason lies in severe clogging of the heat exchanger or a plug in it. If the pipeline does not warm up even to the tap, inspect the cooling system.
If the radiator warms up well, but it is noted that the stove heats worse, then check the functionality of the air intake damper and the condition of its seal. It wouldn’t hurt to check the stove body and air ducts for leaks and cracks.
To ensure that the VAZ-2107 heater heats well, before the winter period check the functionality of the tap, replace the antifreeze (with flushing the system), inspect the control mechanism and the functionality of the dampers.
A heating system that uses the heat of the coolant is responsible for heating the interior of the VAZ 2107. This scheme, recognized as optimal for cars with internal combustion engines, has been used in cars since the mid-20th century.
Like any car component, the VAZ 2107 stove may stop working. In winter, such a breakdown makes the car impossible to operate: the windows sweat or become covered with frost, which impairs visibility. For effective repairs, you need to have a good knowledge of the interior heating system.
Basic malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
The most typical malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 stove include:
- Air entering the cooling system. This usually happens after the system has been filled with antifreeze. Removing the airlock normalizes the heating process of the interior.
- When the heater tap is open, coolant does not flow into the radiator. This most often occurs when water is used as antifreeze. Scale forms in the system, clogging the faucet and impeding the passage of coolant. The problem is eliminated by dismantling the tap and then cleaning or replacing it.
- Poorly functioning or failed water pump. If the pump does not pump coolant, this can lead not only to a lack of heating of the interior, but also to more serious problems, such as engine overheating. The water pump does not work, as a rule, when the generator belt breaks, as well as when it jams as a result of wear on the bearings.
- Clogged stove radiator honeycomb. In this case, the supply pipe will be warm and the outgoing pipe will be cold. The radiator often becomes clogged when water is used as a coolant, as well as when oil or additive particles enter the system to eliminate leaks. Cleaning or replacing the radiator will help restore normal operation of the stove.
- Displacement of the partition in the radiator. If both radiator hoses are hot, but warm air does not enter the cabin, then most likely the partition in the radiator has shifted. The only solution to the problem is to replace the radiator with a new one.
If an oily residue appears on the floor or glass, you should look for an antifreeze leak, which may be:
If a faucet or pipe is leaking, it should be replaced. A leaking radiator can be temporarily sealed, but it will still need to be replaced soon.
The list of possible stove malfunctions is not limited to this.
The stove does not turn off in the summer
Sometimes during the warm season it is impossible to turn off the stove by setting the upper handle of the control unit to the extreme left position. If you cannot turn off the tap, the tap itself or its drive cable is faulty. The tap can be found under the instrument panel on the passenger side. If you also cannot close it manually, you should not apply much effort. The faucet may break and antifreeze may leak into the cabin.
You can replace the faucet after purchasing a new one at any car service center. However, you can try to do this yourself. It should be noted that changing the faucet with your own hands is quite inconvenient due to its location. First, open the hood and disconnect the pipe going to the tap. Since coolant will flow from the pipe, it is necessary to place a previously prepared container under it. After this, you need to remove the storage shelf and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the faucet to the heater body from the passenger seat. Then the tap is removed from the studs, removed and replaced with a new tap in the reverse order.
Heater radiator clogged
You can clean a clogged stove radiator yourself. To do this you will need:
- two new rubber gaskets;
- two worm clamps;
- a set of keys;
- coolant;
- container for collecting coolant.
Flushing the radiator is performed on a cold engine in the following sequence:
- Rags are placed under the pipes that will be removed.
- The clamps securing the radiator pipes and faucet are loosened.
- The pipes are removed. The coolant from them is drained into a pre-prepared container.
- Use a key number 7 to remove the seal fastening from the partition of the engine compartment.
- The heater valve drive is disassembled.
- The fan casing is removed.
- The heater pipes are pulled out through the hole. The radiator is removed.
- Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the radiator outlet pipe.
- The old gasket is replaced with a new one.
- The heater valve is disconnected and cleaned.
- The radiator is cleaned from the outside of leaves and dirt.
- The pipe is cleaned from the inside using a brush.
- The radiator is washed with Karcher under a pressure of 5.5 atm until clear water comes out of it. This will require about 160 liters of water.
- If you don’t have Karcher, you can use caustic soda for washing. The soda solution is poured into the radiator and left for one hour. The solution is then drained and its color is compared with the color of the fresh solution. The procedure is repeated until the color of the drained and filled liquids becomes the same.
- After washing with caustic soda, the radiator is purged with a compressor.
Repair and replacement of individual heating system elements
In addition to the radiator, the heating system includes a fan with an electric motor, a tap and a control unit.
Drivers who have been driving Zhiguli cars for many years often say that the VAZ 2107’s stove sometimes does not heat well. The most common cause of malfunctions in a system such as the VAZ 2107 stove is a leak in the radiator, as well as in pipes, taps and connections located directly between them. To this can be added switch failures for electric fan modes, damage to the device wires or oxidation of their components.
Marina Adulyan
https://fb.ru/article/133081/pechka-vaz—ploho-greet-ustroystvo-pechki-vaz—zamena-radiatora-pechki-vaz—svoimi-rukami
Fan motor
The electric motor of the stove is considered one of the weakest points of the VAZ 2107. This is due to the material of the bushings on which the rotor rotates. When these bushings wear out, the fan operation is accompanied by a characteristic whistle. This happens after two to three years of using the car. The electric motor can be brought back into working condition by cleaning and lubricating. However, after a short time the whistle from the stove fan will appear again. In such cases, experts recommend replacing the standard electric motor with a new one - a bearing one . As a result, the whistle will disappear, and the reliability of the unit will increase. The replacement process is associated with certain difficulties, since the electric motor is located in a rather inaccessible place. Nevertheless, after installation, the bearing motor is guaranteed to work for several years.
The factory electric motor of the VAZ 2107 heater fan is usually replaced with a bearing one
Read about the design of the radiator fan on the VAZ 2107: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/sistema-ohdazhdeniya/ne-vklyuchaetsya-ventilyator-ohlazhdeniya-vaz-2107-inzhektor.html
Heater valve
The heater valve is replaced when it jams, leaks, or in other cases when repair is impossible. Experts recommend installing a ceramic faucet in this case.
The metal heater valve usually opens in the fall and closes in the spring. During periods of inactivity, it can sour, become covered with scale and simply fail. The result can be extremely unpleasant for the car owner. These disadvantages do not exist with a ceramic faucet. There is practically no scale accumulation on ceramics, and it is not subject to corrosion. As a result, even after a long period of inactivity, the heater valve will be in working order.
The standard faucet of the VAZ 2107 stove is often replaced with a ceramic one
Control block
The heating system is controlled from the interior of the VAZ 2107 by several levers on the instrument panel, connected to the controlled elements by a flexible rod (steel wire). Using these levers you can:
- adjust the degree of opening of the air dampers;
- open and close the heater tap;
- distribute air flows between the windshield and side windows;
- take air from the engine compartment.
Each of the control unit levers is responsible for the operation of a specific unit.
In addition, there is also a lower damper (air distribution cover), which is controlled by a special lever located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side.
Thus, any car owner can perform most of the work on repair, maintenance and replacement of elements of the VAZ 2107 heating system independently. In addition, recommendations from experts will help you modify the stove yourself and make it work more efficiently.
Instructions for removing the heater housing on a VAZ-2107
In order to disassemble the stove, you must first remove its body. This cannot be done while your vehicle's battery is connected to the negative terminal. The further procedure is as follows:
- We remove the glove box body, as well as the instrument panel. It is also necessary to get rid of the panel in which the radio is mounted;
- move the stove control lever to the right all the way;
- drain the liquid from the cooling system;
- loosen the tightening clamps and disconnect the rubber hoses going to the heater pipe (these hoses are intended to drain fluid);
- unscrew the two bolts located inside the engine compartment and remove the seal;
- there are also two bolts on the bracket for the heater control levers; they should be unscrewed;
- the bolts holding the brackets for fastening the shells of the flexible rods are slightly loosened;
- After disconnecting the rods, it becomes possible to dismantle the bracket. This should be done immediately;
- remove the right and left nozzles responsible for heating the side windows. This requires a little force because the housing latches are located there;
- unscrew the nut securing the right air duct (heated side window), press out the flaps and latches of the housing, removing the air duct itself;
- We carry out a similar action with the left air duct;
- Now we dismantle the stove fan casing and 4 spring holders;
- unscrew the 4 nuts responsible for fastening the radiator casing, disconnect the wire located on one of them (ground), and then remove the casing itself;
- We begin to remove the air duct responsible for heating the windshield.
This completes the process of disassembling the stove on the VAZ-2107. As you can see, it doesn’t take much time and effort. Everything can be done completely independently, without the help of specialists working at a service station.
Lada 2107 › Logbook › Modernization of the stove
I haven't been here for a long time. In general, I decided to upgrade the heater. I disassembled the stove and cut out the fan mount. Like this.
Then I brought the lower part to this state
Then I made a body for a snail from a VAZ 2108. And joined it to the cut out lower part of the original stove.
I used a resistor for the heater motor from Priora. At 4 speed. Next I decided to make a kind of climate control like on the 10th families. I took a ceramic faucet from a VAZ 2108 and a heater damper gearbox from a new model VAZ 2110, and connected them in this way.
And I used the control unit from the same VAZ 2110, having previously changed the white backlight there to a green LED.
The temperature sensor from the same 2110 was placed on the roof. Something like this ))
Price tag: 2,000 ₽
Devices VAZ 2103
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Primary shaft VAZ 2107 price 2103, 2106: functional. accessories ”500 UAH condition can be seen in photographs. About the change It is very easy to understand: the surrounding torpedo is flared from all 5 to working condition without defects, the instrument panel of the car 2107.
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The control unit on Kalina does not have a habit of failing, but there are exceptions, just like everywhere else. If, nevertheless, a problem arises that the block needs to be replaced, then this process is described in the bottom article.
For work we need a regular screwdriver. Open the fuse cover; to do this, pull the cover towards you with a little effort.
Disconnect the plug from the module to control the light.
The figure shows how you can remove the cover with the module; there is nothing holding it in place other than latches.
Now that the cover is removed, we begin to pull out the control unit; here you need to be very careful, the design is weak. And it holds tightly on the latches, of which there are two. In order to remove it, you need to apply force by pressing on one latch using a screwdriver from the inside and releasing one of the sides, while the second side can be removed without wasting effort.
If replacement is required, then carry out it in the reverse order; the light control unit is inserted from the outside until it stops until it is secured with latches.
When replacing the light control unit on Kalina, the main thing is to be careful and not break the fragile latches, otherwise there is nothing complicated.
If the time has come to change the backlight bulbs of the heater switches on Kalina or you just want to change the bulb to a different color, then you will have to tinker a little, since the procedure is not the easiest, you need to be patient and get started.
Refinement of the air duct system of the VAZ furnace, dismantling the standard installation
If you have a little time and desire, modifications to the VAZ 2110 stove can be done much more thoroughly, namely:
- sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts;
- modernization of the car stove damper;
- modernization of the heating system for the rear seats and driver's feet, installation of corrugated heating ducts.
All this will certainly result in the desired result and significant heat transfer from the stove, but first you need to remove the dashboard along with the dashboard and heater air ducts, for which you need to:
- 1. Remove the floor tunnel lining cover and the interior heating air ducts of the VAZ 2110, and then the body itself, screwed with self-tapping screws to the bottom of your car;
- 2. To remove the instrument panel, you will first need to dismantle the glove box by unscrewing it from its hinges and turning off the glove box light;
- 3. Through the formed niche, unscrew the mounting bolts of the instrument panel;
- 4. Having unscrewed all the fastening screws of the panel in its upper and lower parts, as well as on the controller bracket, we can finally remove the instrument panel from the mounting studs;
- 5. In order to remove the panel from the car interior, you will need to disconnect the electrical connectors for connecting the devices.
Carrying out replacement
The algorithm for performing the work is as follows:
Unscrew the casing that secures the control cable. Remove the end of the cable from the stove faucet. Unscrew the nuts that secure the valve body to the radiator
Please note that antifreeze may leak out at this point, so place a dry cloth on the floor. Remove the old faucet. Remove the adapter that holds the pipe supplying hot antifreeze. Replace all rubber gaskets that are on the faucet. Install the adapter on the new device. Secure the valve to the radiator by tightening the mounting bolts. Install the control cable and ensure that the valve opens and closes completely when moving the lever.
Installing a motor from a chisel stove into a stock stove with modifications
I would like to bring to your attention my version of a modification of a classic stove. First, I will say that a serviceable Zhiguli heater copes with its task quite successfully, the car is warm even in severe frost, but at the same time it has a number of significant shortcomings that every classic car owner dreams of getting rid of. This includes strong annoying noise, insufficient airflow of the windshield and side windows, and a low number of heater fan speeds.
It all started with the fact that a fifth assembled stove and an old chisel stove motor with an impeller ended up in my hands “completely free of charge.” This allowed me to experiment slowly while continuing to drive my car with the stock heater.
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What can you do to solve the blowing problem yourself?
If you are used to repairing a car with your own hands, the best solution would be to perform several steps that will definitely not harm the car. You can do all the diagnostic options described above. This will help determine the cause of the problem. It should be remembered that modern vehicles have non-standard unique blowing systems, which are often difficult to repair. You can do the following research with your own hands:
- find out the direction of air flow in order to understand the meaning of performing some work at a service center or disassembling the car yourself in a specific place for the purpose of repair;
- conduct a study of the operation of the climate control unit and the settings of your equipment, its reaction to changes in settings during operation, as well as complete isolation of the air flow;
- check the cleanliness of the air ducts using various methods that can be found on forums and special websites, make sure that the system is intact and working properly;
- carry out diagnostics of the stove, blower fan and other parts that you can get to, taking into account your experience in car repair and maintenance and troubleshooting;
- change system parts that can be easily replaced without spending a large budget, so you can fix problems without contacting an expensive service center.
The cost of work at a service station can be quite high. So it's better to do some checking yourself. But you shouldn’t go too far in the DIY repair process. It is better to give preference to professional repair work
In this case, it is important to disassemble everything correctly and carefully and carry out high-quality repairs without the chance of the problem returning in the near future.
Refinement using a new snail
To radically change the airflow of the stove and make it quieter, you can install a snail from the VAZ-2108 on the VAZ-2101.
What to buy
To do this you will need:
- New airflow mode switch.
- Resistance from a VAZ-2108 car.
- Snail from VAZ-2108.
- Wires, bolts, nuts, aluminum or any other corners.
- Thick plexiglass for the box.
- Industrial hair dryer to bend plexiglass.
Work step by step
As a result, we will get an improvement in all heating indicators - the cabin will be warm, and the most pleasant thing is that the noise will be significantly reduced.
- We make a housing for attaching the “snail” from plexiglass. That is, we cut it, bend it with a hair dryer, getting the desired shape. To reduce the size of the case, you can cut off the snail plugs.
- The side walls can be made of duralumin (1.5 mm thick). If cracks or crevices appear in the joints during work, they should be sealed with silicone sealant.
- We make collapsible air channels through which the flow will go to the air duct openings.
- Turns must be made smoothly to reduce air resistance in the flow and direct the air straight.
- If you want to bring airflow to your feet, make slots with flaps in the right places. If desired, you can install a variable resistor for adjusting the speed of the cochlea instead of the backlight brightness resistor.
If you do everything correctly, you will get a stove that operates almost silently, especially at low speeds. Despite the large number of bends in the design, the air flows will be sufficient to quickly heat the interior, and the second and third speeds can be turned on only in emergency cases - when you need to heat the interior very quickly.
Therefore, if you are not satisfied with something in the VAZ heating system, try to modify it. And you will succeed!
Signs of trouble
Of course, you will feel cold, although the stove is turned on at maximum speed. Consequently, the heater stopped performing its functions. The following may also indicate a malfunction, the need for repair or a complete replacement:
- leaking antifreeze (here, most likely, the problem lies in the radiator);
- increased fan noise level;
- the regulator works with difficulty, it is not possible to adjust the curtains;
- the air temperature in the cabin rises to an insufficiently high level, that is, the stove works, but not at 100%.
The VAZ, like the UAZ, is a car where everything breaks down at the most inopportune moment. Therefore, it is better to be prepared for such situations.
A broken heater motor is one of the main reasons for heater failure. Radiator failures, antifreeze leaks and faucet failures are not uncommon.
How much does a new heater motor cost?
Motors are usually sold assembled with or without an impeller. In the Moscow region (Moscow city and region), the price for a new heater motor on a bearing with an impeller for VAZ 2101-07, OKA, VAZ 2121 NIVA cars is about 500-600 rubles. Without an impeller - 100 rubles cheaper.
Characteristics of the stove fan electric motor:
- Nominal voltage 12 V
- Rated power 20 W
- Maximum current 5.0 A
- Rated speed 3000 min -1
- Weight 0.85 kg.
Used on the following cars: VAZ 2101. 2107, 2121 Niva, 1111 Oka.
Interior heating
To heat the car interior and protect the windshield, front door glass, and rear window from fogging and freezing:
- move levers 5 and 6 to the right;
- set lever 7 to the middle position;
- open the heater cover with lever 9;
- turn on the heated rear window;
- turn on the electric heater fan if necessary;
- Install the guide vanes of the side nozzles so that the air flow is directed towards the front door windows.
Warm air will be directed both to the driver’s and passengers’ footwells and to the windshield and front door windows. To heat only the windshield faster, close the heater cover and move lever 7 to the right.
We are taking on the modification of the air ducts of the seven stove
To do this, you will need standard hoses and cuffs, which you can buy at any hardware or plumbing store, in quantities of four to seven hoses and a similar number of cuffs. Before installing them, it is necessary to cut holes corresponding to the diameter of the hoses on both sides and on the bottom of the heater housing.
Cuffs and hoses are inserted into them, the side ones are connected respectively to the side air ducts, and the bottom ones are designed to remove excess heat from the legs in order to protect them from overheating by a direct flow of heated air. To warm the feet of rear seat passengers, you can take longer hoses and direct them, respectively, from the stove towards the rear of the car.
Car air conditioner device
Any car air conditioner consists of the following elements:
- compressor with electromagnetic clutch;
- capacitor;
- receiver;
- evaporator with thermostatic valve;
- main hoses.
Freon gas is used as a refrigerant in the air conditioner. To reduce the friction between moving parts when refueling, a certain amount of special refrigeration oil is added to the gas, which is resistant to low temperatures and completely dissolves in liquid freon.
Compressor
In any refrigeration installation, the compressor is used to create a directed flow of refrigerant. It acts as a pump, liquefying freon and forcing it to circulate throughout the system. A car air conditioning compressor is an electromechanical device. Its design is based on several hollow pistons and a swing washer located on the shaft. It is this washer that makes the pistons move. The shaft is driven into rotation by a special belt from the crankshaft. In addition, the compressor is equipped with an electromagnetic clutch, which engages the pressure disk and the pump drive pulley.
The pistons in the air conditioning compressor are driven by a swashplate
Capacitor
Typically the condenser is installed in the front of the engine compartment next to the main radiator. It is sometimes called an air conditioner radiator because it has a similar design and performs similar functions. The radiator cools the heated antifreeze, and the condenser cools the hot freon. There is an electric fan to force air flow onto the condenser.
The condenser functions as a heat exchanger that cools freon
Receiver
Another name for a receiver is a filter drier. Its role is to clean the refrigerant from moisture and wear products. The receiver consists of:
- a cylindrical body filled with adsorbent;
- filter element;
- inlet and outlet fittings.
The adsorbent used in car dryers is usually silica gel or powdered aluminum oxide.
The receiver simultaneously performs the functions of a filter and a dryer
Evaporator and expansion valve
An evaporator is a device in which the refrigerant changes from a liquid to a gaseous state. It generates and releases cold, that is, it performs functions opposite to those of the radiator. The conversion of liquid refrigerant into gas occurs with the help of a thermostatic valve, which is a throttle of variable cross-section.
In the evaporator, freon changes from liquid to gaseous state
The evaporator is usually installed in the heater module. The intensity of the cold air flow is regulated by switching the operating modes of the built-in fan.
Refrigerant evaporation occurs due to the pressure difference at the inlet and outlet of the thermostatic valveMain hoses
The refrigerant moves from one unit to another through a system of hoses. Depending on the design of the air conditioner and the location of its elements, they may have different lengths and configurations. All hose connections are reinforced with seals.
Main hoses are designed to connect the main components of the air conditioning system
The principle of operation of a car air conditioner
When the air conditioner is turned off, the compressor pulley rotates idle. When turned on, the following happens.
- Power is supplied to the electromagnetic clutch.
- The clutch engages and the pressure plate engages the pulley.
- As a result, the compressor begins to work, the pistons of which compress the gaseous freon and turn it into a liquid state.
- The refrigerant is heated and enters the condenser.
- In the condenser, the freon cools slightly and enters the receiver to remove moisture and wear products.
- From the filter, freon under pressure passes through a thermostatic valve, where it again turns into a gaseous state.
- The refrigerant enters the evaporator, where it boils and evaporates, cooling the internal surfaces of the device.
- The cooled metal of the evaporator reduces the temperature of the air circulating between its tubes and lamellas.
- An electric fan creates a directed flow of cold air.
Sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts
The main problem with good blowing of side windows is the presence of a large number of cracks in the dashboard air duct system, which should only be sealed, thereby reducing heat loss and significantly increasing the pressure of the air flow for blowing the side windows of the car.
Heater duct routing
You will need silicone or anti-squeak (modelin). We seal around the perimeter all the cracks in the upper and lower parts of the torpedo panel. Also, do not forget to “silicone” all the mounting holes. At this point, you can consider the first stage of work completed.
Repair as a way to solve the problem
In some cases, you can try to repair the fan using fairly simple manipulations. Repairs are carried out quickly and without complications if you have already had to disassemble and reassemble your favorite “six”.
Signs that the stove is still “alive”, but requires some intervention, can be the following signals:
It is when the heater squeaks or makes noise that you can think about trying to repair the problem unit.
If your heater makes a lot of noise, try the following.
Remove the fan and clean off accumulated dirt and dust. Just don’t forget to remove the ground first, since you are working with the electrical component of the VAZ-2106
For instructions on how to remove the fan, see the replacement section. Pay attention to the presence of axial play in the heater motor. You can check this yourself
If there is any play, it should be eliminated. Use a fluoroplastic washer. Please note that after the manipulations have been completed, there should be a small gap between the elements to minimize friction. It is recommended to lubricate the bearings with a thick compound that does not respond to temperature changes (MS 1000 is suitable). Next, disassemble the motor. Make the required number of washers, lubricate them and return them to the electric motor. Attempting to lubricate with engine oil will only give a temporary effect.
If the heater produces an unpleasant squeak, then you should resort to such manipulations.
- Unclip the casing along with the engine and airflow, which goes to the feet of the passenger and driver. In total, the VAZ-2106 has 4 fastening elements. To the left of the heater above the dashboard there is a negative wire that needs to be unscrewed.
- Now you remove the wiring from the button to turn on the fan. You need 2 outer wires.
- That's it, you can remove the bottom plastic with the engine. The motor is removed by removing a pair of metal brackets and installing a new one in its place. Experienced VAZ workers advise choosing a motor with bearings, since it is more reliable and durable.
- We put everything back together in reverse order, and there is no squeak.
Stove tuning
The design of the VAZ 2107 stove is far from perfect. Therefore, car owners modify it in a variety of ways. First of all, attempts are being made to improve the tightness of air ducts, especially at joints. This allows you to slightly increase the efficiency of heating the interior.
VAZ 2107 owners modify the heating system in a variety of ways
Fan replacement
Often, to improve the operation of the stove, car enthusiasts replace their original fan with a more powerful one, used in other VAZ models (for example, VAZ 2108). The factory fan motor is mounted on plastic bushings, which wear out quickly. As a result, shaft play appears, and a whistling noise becomes audible in the cabin when the fan is operating. Repair and lubrication of bushings in this case, as a rule, do not bring the expected effect. The VAZ 2108 fan electric motor is mounted on bearings. Therefore, installing it in the VAZ 2107 stove will not only increase the efficiency of heating the interior, but will also make the operation of the fan more reliable.
Usually, along with the fan electric motor, a number of other elements of the stove control unit are also changed. The rotation speed of the VAZ 2107 factory fan at a current of 4.5A is 3000 rpm. The VAZ 2108 electric motor consumes 14A at a frequency of 4100 rpm. Therefore, when replacing, you should install the appropriate fuse, resistor (usually from a Niva) and speed switch (for example, from a Kalina).
To dismantle the fan you will need:
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- keys for 7 and 10;
- round nose pliers.
The fan is removed in the following order.
- The instrument panel, shelf and glove box are dismantled.
- Use a 7 key to loosen the casing of the air damper control cable. The cable loop is removed from the lever.
- Use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the heater housing.
- Use a flat screwdriver to remove the left and right air ducts from the heater body.
- Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the latches that secure the fan to the stove.
- The wire terminals are disconnected.
- The fan is removed from the stove body.
- The impeller is removed. If necessary, use pliers.
The size of the new fan (from VAZ 2108) is slightly larger. Therefore, its installation will require some changes in the design of the stove. If only the motor is changed, it will be necessary to make an additional hole in the grille through which warm air enters the lower part of the cabin. If this is not done, the motor housing will rest against the grille.
Replacing the stove body
When installing a fan from a VAZ 2108, you will need to make a new frame, usually from plexiglass. This is quite labor-intensive and will require certain skills.
The material for a homemade frame when modifying the stove can be plexiglass
When making a new frame, all dimensions must be strictly observed. The slightest inaccuracies can lead to vibration or failure of the new fan. Having assembled the structure, you should lubricate the joints with sealant and install the new housing in place. After this, the noise level in the cabin usually decreases, and the stove begins to heat the air better.
The air intake should ALWAYS be from the street, especially in winter, otherwise the windows will sweat (and freeze in winter). Air intake from the cabin is done only when the air conditioning is turned on (in the seven this issue does not arise). The fact that one “sleeve” is not blowing is possible: a) when tampering with the stove, the sleeve did not fit into the right place and the stove is blowing somewhere under the panel, b) some kind of crap got into the nozzle (foam rubber or something like that ).
When making a new frame for the motor, all dimensions must be strictly observed.
What other tuning options are there?
Sometimes the design of the air ducts is modified. Additional holes are made in the stove body into which plumbing hoses are inserted. Through these hoses, connected to the side and bottom air ducts, when the engine is running, an additional flow of warm air is created onto the windows and into the legs.
Often the cause of poor interior heating is a clogged heater radiator. The coolant begins to circulate more slowly or completely stops circulating through the heating system, and the efficiency of air heating decreases noticeably. Usually in these cases the radiator is replaced with a new one.
A clogged heater radiator leads to a decrease in the efficiency of heating the interior.
Interior ventilation of VAZ 2107
Outside air can enter the vehicle interior:
— with the door windows down;
Rice. 2–3. Interior ventilation and heating controls: 1 - side nozzles; 2 — outside air flow regulator; 3 — lever for changing the direction of air flow; 4 - central nozzles; 5 — heater valve control lever; 6 — air supply hatch control lever; 7 — distribution lever; 8 — rear window heating switch; 9 — heater cover lever; 10 - three-position heater fan switch
— through the upper nozzles on the instrument panel, if you move the distribution lever 7 (Fig. 2–3) and the air supply hatch control lever 6 to the right;
— through the side nozzles 1 on the instrument panel, if you move lever 6 to the right and lever 7 to the left;
— through the holes of the heater casing, if you open the heater cover with lever 9 and move lever 6 to the right;
— through the central nozzles 4 directly from the air supply box when the car is moving, if the regulators 2 open the nozzle flaps (summer airflow).
By moving lever 3 in the horizontal and vertical directions, the direction of the air flow from the nozzle changes.
In the middle position of lever 7 and in the right extreme position of lever 6, air will flow through both the top and side nozzles.
If the vehicle is moving at low speed, you can increase the amount of incoming air by turning on the electric heater fan with switch 10.
Content
Despite a decent number of shortcomings, VAZs remain loved by our compatriots. Today, we will tell you how to improve the operation of the stove on the classic. The heater and ventilation provide a favorable atmosphere inside the car. In the VAZ 2107, air is supplied from the street. Air, through gaps in the hood of the car, enters the inside of the car. At the same time, depending on the setting, it heats up or cools down.
The air intake box is located in the rear part of the engine block; the air is purified from moisture. The box is protected from the engine by special (rubber) gaskets. Moisture comes out, and the air flow enters the heating system. The gaps in the box are closed with a special partition (lid). When driving, part of the air flow exits through devices located above the dashboard.
Fan replacement
Fan VAZ 2107
If the heater does not work properly, a peculiar hum always occurs that does not go away over time. A hum is not a reason to replace the entire heater. It will be enough just to change the fan and that’s it. Of course, you can use the services of companies that carry out work of this level, or you can do everything yourself. Moreover, this type of work is not particularly difficult. In modern VAZ models, such as the “ten” or “tag”, replacing the fan is more problematic than on older models. This is explained by the more extensive heating and ventilation system on modern VAZ models. The general process of replacing a fan can be divided into three components: dismantling, repair and assembly. And if everything is done correctly, a complete replacement of the heater on the VAZ 2107 will no longer be necessary.
Dismantling
Analysis of the VAZ stove fan
We begin the process of disassembling the fan:
- We prepare a workplace for the car;
- the stove lever, the lowest, is moved to the extreme right position from the driver;
- the instrument panel is dismantled;
- the glove compartment and the shelf located below are removed;
- the center console with radio is also dismantled;
- use a 7 key to unscrew and remove the rod that controls the damper;
Rod controlling the damper
- use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the heater radiator casing;
- the nut located behind the glove compartment is also unscrewed (it secures the right air vent);
- use a screwdriver to disconnect the air vent, which is held on the radiator casing of the car's heating system;
- the fan casing is also dismantled, and then the fan itself;
- the rubber gaskets located on the casing body are removed;
- the red positive charge wire is disconnected;
- use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring located on the drive shaft;
- The fan impellers are also removed, and then the shaft adjusting rings.
At this stage, disassembling the fan can be called complete. To ensure that all work goes smoothly, you should use the right tools. The screwdriver used to remove the radiator casing must have a wide blade, and the wrenches must have an extension if the nuts are too deep. Heater 2107, the replacement of which will be discussed below, has many parts and connections that differ in the complexity of fastening.
Repair
Car fan repair
On a VAZ 2107, the heater fan, the replacement of which is presented below, involves replacing the old part with a new one. After the fan is removed, repairs should begin. You can use another, more powerful fan, although this is not recommended. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to modernize the entire heating system of the car, otherwise it will quickly become unusable. The repair itself does not take much time, since the main actions involve dismantling and assembly. Repair involves replacing the old fan with a new one. In some cases, the heater impeller or electric motor is replaced.
Assembly
The replacement of the heater fan on the VAZ 2107 continues. The next stage of working with the fan is its assembly. Begin:
- install the adjusting rings, as well as the fan impeller on the shaft;
- retaining rings are also installed;
- we connect a positive charge to the system;
- after this, the fan is installed in place, and fastening is carried out using spring-type brackets;
- connect the radio;
- then we install the glove compartment, instrument panel and storage shelf.
Replacing the heater fan VAZ 2107
Replacing a heater fan on a VAZ 2107 is not complete without some secrets that you need to know. Of course, because replacing the heater fan of a VAZ 2107 car is not a simple process, but a complex one and requiring careful attention.
How to make a VAZ 2101 stove
Let's not make any big background stories, but let's get straight to the point. Previously, when I had already come across similar articles, the good advice there was to seal all existing connections in order to avoid air loss. This is partly good advice, but partly not, it doesn’t always just help. What to do in this case?
I would like to tell you about the improvement of the source of that very air supply, namely the fan. The radiator itself gives off more heat; there is simply not always enough air to heat the entire interior of the car. To solve this problem, it is worth operating the engine from the heater fan on a VAZ 2108 or VAZ 2109.
This is due to the fact that the standard VAZ heater engine produces only approximately 3000-3200 rpm and consumes a current of 4.5 A, and the “chisels” have, in some respects, more powerful engines that are capable of delivering approximately 4000 rpm minute, but also consume significantly more - 14 A.
As you can see, the consumption is very large, but at the same time the air flow is completely different, which is the fundamental issue in our case. What are we doing?
We disassemble and modernize the VAZ 2101 - 2107 stove
First, let's take everything apart. Next, you need to cut off the comb and then replace the fan speed control resistor. Why was it necessary to cut down the comb? This is explained by the fact that the dimensions of the chisel engine are larger than the usual classic ones. So, in order to completely cover the foot heating, it needs to be cut down. According to calculations, the result may be approximately a couple of times more air.
First, we drill a hole on the impeller with a diameter of approximately 7 mm. To do this, you should put the impeller on the shaft of the “seventh” engine as tightly as possible, it is advisable to experiment until the noise and vibration are completely eliminated. Before installation, do not forget to perform a test run and only then continue to work.
A question may also arise in terms of “why was it necessary to replace the resistor to switch speed modes?” The answer is simple (it is replaced after testing) with its help a greater air flow is supplied. You also need to remember to replace the fan rotation mode switch, since it is simply not designed for high current and often simply melts.
It is connected according to the usual scheme from a VAZ 2108, in short, you get a regular 3-speed switch, which is activated when the ignition is active.
How to improve the stove VAZ 2101 - 2107 (video)
Warming up of the interior is carried out much faster and, accordingly, the windows thaw faster; with an increase in efficiency, the interior immediately becomes warmer, even in such a large interior as in the VAZ 2104 there is rarely a need to turn on the heated rear window. There is, of course, a minus - the noise increases when such a fan operates, but this is understandable and tolerable. You can also flush the stove radiator, this will significantly improve its heat transfer.
Modernization of the heating system for rear seats and driver's feet in VAZ cars
Laying corrugated heating ducts
As for the module for distributing air flow to the driver’s feet, front seat passenger and rear part of the cabin, this also has its own factory flaws. They are also associated with insufficient sealing of cracks. You can fight with modelin or silicone, as in the case of a torpedo, if you do not want to disturb the factory aesthetics of the parts.
Airflow for rear passengers' feet
It would be much simpler and more reliable to cut off the ill-fated Christmas tree that distributes air flows and use three separate 40 mm corrugated pipes for heating ducts. What do you gain in this case:
- you get reliable sealing of the channels;
- three corrugated hoses take up much less space, which greatly simplifies access to the VAZ 2110 electrical wiring system, located there (there are really a lot of wires and access to them is extremely difficult).
Corrugation gasket for heater
We also remove the partitions of the old air distribution system. We seal the hoses using polyurethane foam. It should also be taken into account that the textured internal coating of a corrugated hose can cause whistling and howling of air, so we do not make the pipelines very large.
Refinement of the thermostat and its connection diagram
The previously discussed modernization of the VAZ 2110 stove by replacing a 5-hole thermostat with a 6-hole thermostat is not least related to the diameters of the bypass channels of the devices that regulate the flow of Antifreeze between the small cooling circuit and the radiator of the heating system.
The standard size of the bypass channel on a 6-hole thermostat is 11 mm, and on a 5-hole thermostat the hole is measured with a diameter of 16 mm. Regardless of what type of thermostat you have installed, you can always further adjust the flow of coolant. Thus, the interior of the VAZ 2110 will warm up better at idle engine speed.
It is recommended to use an aluminum pad to set the bypass diameter in the range from 4 to 6 mm. It is worth understanding that in this way we slightly increase the engine warm-up time. But the cabin will become really warmer.
When reinstalling the thermostat, swap the connections of the pipes coming from the expansion tank and coming from the radiator of your car's heater. Now there is no longer any need to cover the radiator with cardboard in winter; the VAZ 2110 heating system will work perfectly in any weather.
Modernization of the VAZ stove damper
The problem with the stove damper is that the cracks in the housing are not properly sealed. As a result, regardless of the position of the damper, the flow of warm air is significantly lost, passing not where we would like it.
Furnace damper modernization
You can combat this by installing an additional seal (the same model and double-sided tape will serve you well). After removing the factory seal, completely glue the entire valve body, eliminating any gaps. You also tape the damper itself. Thus, you have significantly reduced losses in the air flow directed to the driver’s face, legs and windshield.
But to seal the gap at the beginning of the channel for blowing the driver's window, a conventional seal will not be enough. It is recommended to use polyurethane foam to reliably seal unwanted air channels, thereby eliminating significant losses.
