On a VAZ 2107 the battery charging lamp is on, but there is charging: reasons and what to do

A burning battery light on the VAZ instrument panel indicates that the battery is discharged or that the light bulb has a malfunction. If it lights up at the moment when the car refuses to start, it is necessary to look for the cause on the spot. If the indicator turns on while the engine is running, do not turn off the ignition immediately, try to get to a place where it will be convenient to remove and install the battery. There is a possibility that you will have to get a generator. The optimal stopping place would be a garage with a lift or pit.

There may be several reasons why the battery on a VAZ is discharged, why the light on a VAZ 2107 is on. Let's look at them, as well as ways to solve problems.

What else to check

1. Voltage regulator;
2. Generator rectifier unit;
3. Diodes;
4. Generator for broken windings;
5. Generator brush assembly;
6. Contacts on the terminals of the generator, mounting block.

Let's continue... Diodes are checked with a test light or multimeter. If one of them is broken, the entire rectifier will have to be replaced.

To check the stator winding you need the same device. The resistance between the fasteners of the rectifier unit is measured. If there are no contacts between them, you need to replace either the winding or the entire generator.

The generator itself often fails due to wear on the brushes. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly and measure the length of the elements. If it is 5 mm or less, the brushes must be replaced.

Almost all of the above system components are replaced when they fail, since they cannot be repaired. Only some of the generator problems can be repaired, but this can only be done by a qualified auto electrician.

The worst thing is if problems with recharging occur while on the road. Without recharging the battery, it will eventually run out completely. And even if you manage to find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, you will no longer be able to start the engine with the starter. It will be possible to start a VAZ-2017 with a dead battery only from a tug or pusher.

Burnt out battery indicator light

A fairly common cause of this problem is lamp failure. This is perhaps one of the simplest breakdowns, but it is not always harmless. It is advisable to replace the light bulb as quickly as possible. If there are problems with it, you will not be able to identify the problem with the generator in a timely manner. Which will lead to the battery being discharged at the most inopportune time. Thus, driving with a burnt-out lamp is highly not recommended.

Battery charge indicator light VAZ

You should also consider the design features of your car. Most generators have a built-in resistance. This allows you to generate energy even when the charge control lamp is burnt out. On some cars, the lamp itself plays the role of resistance.

This can be found on some modifications of the VAZ 2112, as well as many old foreign cars. In this case, when the light bulb burns out, the generator stops producing current. If your car has this structure, you should always have a spare lamp.

How to determine the lack of battery charge on a VAZ 2105

The easiest way to determine the lack of charging is using the car’s instruments, that is, the charging indicator lamp and the sensor (voltmeter) on the instrument panel. The sensor arrow should be in the green sector, and the battery lamp should not light up when the engine is running. Otherwise there is no charging.

But the best way is to check the voltage on the battery with a multimeter. When there is a charge, the voltage on it lies in the range of 13.6-14.2 V, and when there is no charge, it will only have its own voltage of 12 V (± 0.6 V). Under no circumstances remove the terminals from the battery to check to avoid damage to the RR, ECU and other electronic devices on your car.

To troubleshoot battery charging problems, you must use the following tools:

• control lamp 12 V;
• multimeter with a measuring range of up to 60 V AC and DC voltage;
• flat blade screwdriver;
• shaped screwdriver with a Phillips blade;
• pliers;
• knife;
• emery cloth.

Indicator light

As can be seen from the diagram, the charging system involves a large number of components and each of them can cause poor charging or its absence. To monitor the battery charging process, the car's dashboard is equipped with a control light.

If the system is in good working order, the control signal turns on after the factory. But when the engine enters operating mode, the VAZ 2107 battery charging light does not light up. This means that the battery's energy supply is replenished from the generator. At the same time, the needle on the voltmeter moves to the green sector.

Signs of a battery not charging:

• The VAZ 2107 battery charge arrow twitches.
• The control signal does not go out. In some cases, the VAZ 2107 battery light blinks.
• The voltmeter needle does not go to the green zone after starting the engine.
• When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should remain around 13.9.
• The permissible deviation in any direction does not exceed 0.3 V. Undercharging of the VAZ 2107 battery within these limits is not yet dangerous.

A voltage drop to 12 V says: the generator is not charging! lamp is dimly lit - the battery is undercharged.

No charging

Auto seven 2010 injector. The battery has failed to charge. When you turn on the ignition, the light on the dashboard lights up, when you start the engine, it blinks at half-glow, when you give it gas, it lights up brighter, but there is no charging at all. It appeared periodically at higher speeds, but now it has disappeared altogether. The Akum is fresh, charged, the light in the instrument panel is working. What could be the reason for watching first?

• Why might the new generator fail? – 6 answers
• Why does the VAZ 2107 battery drain quickly? – 6 answers
• The voltage regulator fails on a VAZ 2107 - 5 answers
• What causes the charging current to decrease as the speed increases? – 4 answers
• Why, when warming up, does the voltage from the VAZ 2107 generator drop? – 4 answers

Remove, disassemble, change the rectifier, eliminate antifreeze leaks from under the thermostat pipes.

Generator, diodes probably burnt out

check the diode bridge, the charge relay may not work due to the diodes, a weak glow is evidence of a broken diode on the bridge

Diode bridge

The diode bridge is used to convert alternating voltage to direct voltage. If at least one of the diodes breaks down, the device stops coping with its tasks, which is why a voltage that does not correspond to its parameters begins to flow into the on-board circuit of the machine. That is why the rectifying bridge must be checked in the case when the battery charging light is on, but there is charging (VAZ 2107, 2106).

You can also determine the health of the diodes using a multimeter in the appropriate mode. Turn on the tester and connect the red probe to the positive terminal of the bridge, and the black probe to one of the contacts marked “AC”. The threshold (pass) voltage for silicon diodes ranges from 400 to 1000 mV. If the device shows you a value that does not fit within the specified range, the bridge must be replaced. It is impossible to repair it.

What to do if the battery is boiling

You can conclude that the VAZ-2107 battery is “boiling” if the following problems occur:

• the corresponding indicator stops lighting;
• the voltmeter behaves inappropriately, and its needle goes to the right;
• A characteristic odor appears in the car interior.

“Boiling” of the battery is caused by problems with the voltage stabilizer. It is strictly forbidden to continue driving the car in such a situation: this can lead to breakdowns of all electrical equipment in the car. In order to get to the service center with safety for yourself and the car, you should forcefully turn off the generator set.

This can be done by physically removing the wire from the terminal with the abbreviation “61” located on the generator itself. The car will continue to move solely using the accumulated charge.

Replacing the fog light fuse

Proper operation of the fog lights is ensured by a fuse, which is located separately from the fuse box. Its location in a VAZ 2107 car is under the console central panel, next to the fog light button on the panel next to the radio.

To carry out work to check or replace the fog lamp circuit fuse, perform the following sequence of operations:

1. Turn off the car's power;
2. You need to use a screwdriver to disconnect the switches from the console in the place where the radio is installed, ensuring free access;
3. Pull out the plastic insert on the console by squeezing it with a screwdriver to gain access to the fog lamp fuse housing.
4. Remove the housing and check or replace the fuse.
5. Reassemble all the elements and switches in the reverse order to make sure the fog lights are working.

Common reasons why the battery light is constantly on

These include the following cases:

• The alternator drive belt is loose, worn or torn;
• the fuse has blown in the section of the circuit from the ignition switch to the control light (in this case there is charging);
• contact is broken in the connector blocks of the mounting block;
• malfunction of the relay regulator;
• diode bridge malfunction;
• malfunction in the circuit of additional diodes;
• break in the current supply circuit to the rotor electromagnets;
• poor contact at the battery terminals;
• lack of supply current at the output of the generator;
• the generator brushes are worn out;
• there is no ground on the negative wire.

The source of many faults in the battery charging system is the generator voltage regulator relay

The light may sometimes come on when the turn signal is turned on.

The most common reason is a malfunction of the diode bridge, poor contact in the rotation fuses, or poor contact in the ground wire of the instrument panel. It is necessary to check the contacts of all terminals on the wires coming from the generator. The problem must be fixed. Indeed, if the generator malfunctions (a break in one of the three diodes), the battery will no longer receive a full charge and after some time will be completely discharged every time the turn signals are turned on and/or off.

The light bulb goes out and burns at full intensity

A battery light that barely burns at half intensity while the engine is running indicates a generator malfunction: the diode bridge or insulation in one of the stator windings is broken. Less commonly, there is a problem with the ignition switch. The key cannot turn all the way due to accumulated dirt. A few drops of WD-40 “liquid key” into the ignition key hole will alleviate the situation. Sometimes it may be necessary to repair the car's electrical wiring and timely diagnose a decrease in the signal to the indicators.

The light comes on when the speed increases

This is a signal that charging has stopped when you press the gas pedal. The most common cause of this malfunction is wear of the slip rings on the generator shaft. There are problems with the belt, brushes or bearings of the generator. The malfunction must be found and eliminated. Otherwise, due to loss of charging, the battery may fail at the most inopportune moment.

The light comes on at idle

The light comes on as soon as the car starts. Sometimes the reason is simple. When the engine is idling, powerful current consumers are turned on: air conditioning, headlights, windshield wipers. The load on the generator increases sharply and the battery simply does not have enough charge. The light starts flashing periodically. If the alternator belt is loosely tensioned, then when you turn on the headlights or air conditioning, you can hear the squeal of a slipping belt. But a battery light burning at low speeds can also indicate a malfunction of the relay regulator or rectifier bridge. In any case, the fault must be found and eliminated.

The light flashes periodically when the engine is cold

A flashing battery light requires you to pay special attention to the generator. Perhaps the brushes or copper slip rings on the armature shaft are worn out. Perhaps there is a bad contact in one of the phases of the diode bridge

Often the cause of this malfunction is loosening of the nuts securing the contacts of the diode bridge or oxidation of the closing surfaces of the contacts

Perhaps there is a bad contact in one of the phases of the diode bridge. Often the cause of this malfunction is loosening of the nuts securing the diode bridge contacts or oxidation of the closing surfaces of the contacts.

The battery charge control lamp lights up when the headlights are turned on.

The light comes on when the headlights are turned on

This is the reason why the generator cannot produce rated voltage when the load increases. It is necessary to check the AC source for a break in one of the phases of the diode bridge, wear of the commutator rings or brushes.

The light remains on when the ignition is off

In this case, the current to the light bulb can only come from the ignition system. It is most likely that there is a problem with the ignition switch, the switched on contact of the ignition unloading relay or the car alarm.

And the light is on and charging is in progress

In this case, it can be assumed that there is a loss of current in the battery lamp circuit or at the contact from the generator, or at the contact from the ignition switch. The reasons may be different: the wire is broken or has fallen off the connector, the contacts in the connecting blocks have oxidized or rusted. Very rarely, the cause may be a relay regulator.

Malfunctions in the timing belt

The belt may be torn, stretched, or simply wet.

Timing belt drive

• A belt that is torn or shows signs of physical wear must be replaced.
• Loose, without signs of wear - tighten it. A correctly tensioned belt should not bend by more than 1.5 cm when pressed.

Important! Excessive timing belt tension will damage the generator bearings, which will require time-consuming and expensive repairs. The deflection should be 1-1.5 cm.

• If there is moisture, dry it.

The VAZ 2105 battery has boiled - what to do?

There are several reasons why batteries boil. Let's consider them in order of importance:

1. Recharging the battery
2. Short circuit of cans
3. Sulfation of plates
4. Electrical system overload
5. Battery polarity reversal

If the battery boils on your car while driving, you must immediately take the following steps:

• turn off the engine;
• open the hood to provide air flow; if the battery has a jacket, remove it; Allow the battery to cool to a temperature below 40 degrees Celsius (easily determined by touching it with your hand); close the hood, start the car and drive to the nearest gas station;
• purchase distilled water and top up to the required electrolyte level;
• if the battery is maintenance-free, topping up can be done through the gas outlet;
• if the repair kit contains a multimeter, measure the voltage on the battery with the engine running; if the voltage exceeds 15 Volts, disconnect the thick wire of the generator, carefully insulating it and securing it to the nearest body element;
• Continue driving to the parking or repair site, turning off, if possible, all additional comfort devices (stove, car radio, air conditioning and others).

Some useful tips

To avoid problems associated with a faulty battery charging circuit, use the following tips.

1. Pay more attention to your car's dashboard. This way you will know not only about the charging status of the battery, but also about the operation of other systems and mechanisms.
2. Check the alternator belt regularly. The correct operation of the entire on-board network when the engine is running depends on its condition and tension. If you find the slightest defect in the belt, do not delay replacing it.
3. Don’t be lazy at least once a month to check the voltage supplied by the generator to the battery terminals. If any discrepancies with the recommended values ​​are detected, perform a full diagnostic of the on-board network.
4. Periodically conduct a visual inspection of the condition of the battery terminals and generator terminals. Having discovered their oxidation, clean them with fine sandpaper and treat them with a liquid like VD-40.
5. Do not allow water to get on the generator, battery and relay regulator. It can cause a short circuit in the electrical circuit. It is better to entrust engine washing to specialists.
6. When repairing the battery charging circuit, avoid using spare parts that raise doubts about their quality.

Battery charging lamp is on

Calculator for calculating leakage current in a car

Calculation of permissible current leakage in a car | Online calculator

The battery charging lamp is on, which means the generator is not working, the car owner’s first thought when he saw the battery icon on the dashboard. However, the reason why the charge indicator lights up is most often much more trivial - it is a loose drive belt tension or poor contact. But it is also possible that you will have to disassemble the generator because wear of the generator brushes or failure of the diode bridge, as well as some others, is possible.

The first thing to do if the battery charge light comes on while the engine is on is to check the voltage at the battery terminals. This is necessary in order to determine the location of the repair site - in the engine compartment or in the dashboard of the car.

Video - Battery protection from theft

The car dashboard contains not only analog gauges, but also various indicators. One of the main indicators is a battery icon, which lights up red when the ignition is turned on, and goes out as soon as the engine starts. If the battery charging lamp on a VAZ 2107 lights up after starting the engine, this indicates a malfunction of the generator. If the generator is working properly, and the battery is charging, and the lamp is on, then the reasons for the indicator light need to be looked for.

What is a generator

In order to start the engine and ensure its proper operation, the entire electrical system must be provided with constant voltage. If we talk specifically about the reasons why there is no charging on the VAZ-2107, then you need to take into account that this car requires a voltage of 12 V. The car is started by a starter - this is a high-power electric motor that spins the crankshaft. The generator does not work when the engine is idle.

As soon as the crankshaft begins to rotate, voltage from the battery is applied to the excitation winding of the generator. The generator can only operate if there is a rotational movement of the magnetic field. And if there is no charging on the VAZ-2107, then there is either no voltage on the rotor winding or no rotation. The magnetic field is created by the field winding, which is located on the rotor. There is a pulley on it, which is connected to the crankshaft by a ridge belt (on injection cars) and a V-belt (on carburetor cars) to the crankshaft.

Theory “on fingers”: how everything works

On the VAZ 2107, devices can receive power from 2 sources. The first is the battery, the second is the generator. The battery supplies energy when the engine is turned off. It has a certain charge, consumed as needed. The generator produces electricity, but only if the rotor is spinning. That is, with the engine running.

Battery operation diagram: 1. Battery, 2. Negative diode, 3. Additional diode, 4. Generator, 5. Positive diode, 6. Stator winding, 7. Regulator, 8. Rotor winding, 9. Capacitor, 10. Mounting block, 11. Control lamp, 12. Voltmeter, 13. Ignition relay, 14. Lock.

The battery charge is used to start the engine. When the engine starts running, the battery energy is not consumed: the generator supplies all devices with it. A charge is also supplied to it to restore wasted energy. But if the battery is not charging, its own energy will be enough for a limited number of starts. The battery will then be completely discharged. And the car owner will have to solve the problem of how to start a VAZ 2107 if the battery is dead. After all, not everyone has “crocodiles” in their trunk, and not everyone will agree to share electricity with their battery.

VAZ 2104 no battery charging

The VAZ 2104 car has a voltmeter and a warning lamp on the instrument panel to monitor the battery charge.

In cases where the voltmeter is not in the green zone and the control lamp is on, this indicates that the VAZ 2104 is not charging the battery. This could be due to several reasons.

First of all, the fuse in the battery charging circuit and the reliability of its fixation in the mounting block are checked.

The second thing you need to pay attention to when troubleshooting is the alternator drive belt. The belt must not be worn, twisted and have the required tension.

The deflection of the alternator belt should normally be 10-15 mm when pressed by hand.

In addition, it is worth inspecting the generator drive pulley, which may also be worn out, and the belt will simply slide along its surface without turning the generator rotor. In such cases, both the pulley and the belt must be replaced.

Next, you need to check the output voltage from the generator, and if it is normal and shows 13.5 -14.2V, then check the wire from the generator to the battery for the integrity and reliability of its connection.

The terminals on the battery itself may be oxidized or may not have reliable contact with the battery terminals.

The oxidized terminals are cleaned (a solution of soda and water), and the unreliable contact is tightened.

Further, the reason why the VAZ 2104 does not charge the battery may be the generator brushes, which either have extreme wear or are stuck in the brush holder guides. Worn brushes are replaced and jamming is eliminated.

In addition, the slip rings may have wear and tear and the brushes cannot lie completely on the rings, so there is no reliable contact in the excitation circuit

Also, the reason for the lack of charging may be a faulty relay-regulator combined with the brush assembly. In such cases, the relay-regulator along with the brush assembly must be replaced.

The lack of charging can be affected by an interturn short circuit, a short to ground or a break in the stator winding, as well as a break in the generator excitation circuit.

In the generator, the diodes of the rectifier unit (popularly “horseshoe”) can also fail, as well as a short circuit or breakdown of one of the additional diodes.

In addition, the generator may have poor contact with the car body (ground) or unreliable contact at terminal “30”

Also read other reviews

• VAZ 2106 battery light is on

A little theory: scheme of work

To solve the existing problem, you must understand the essence of the interaction between the vehicle generator and the power source (battery).

While driving, the battery is in constant charging mode with a voltage of 13.6-14.2 Volts. As engine speed increases, the voltage at the generator output increases. But this is unacceptable.

To limit the voltage, a small relay regulator is inserted into the rotor excitation circuit. Its task is to reduce the current to a normal level (even with a significant increase in the speed).

The result is maintaining the battery charge voltage at a stable level. If the battery light is on, this indicates a lack of charging from the generator.

How does the scheme work? After turning on the ignition, voltage through fuse No. 10 (for VAZ-2107) is supplied to the battery charge indicator lamp.

Next, the “+12V” voltage passes through a diode, a built-in relay-regulator (we mentioned it above), a brush, a slip ring and a winding.

As soon as the rotor speed increases, the phase voltage also increases. As a result, the voltage at the terminals of the battery warning light is equalized and it goes out. At the same time, the battery is charging.

Questions from readers

And now I would like to answer questions from our readers!

The lamp does not light, the voltmeter needle remains at zero when the ignition is turned on.

We check the wires on the generator to see if the wire has come loose from terminal “61”. If everything is normal there, you need to check whether there is a “plus” on this wire using a test lamp, an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.

If there is a “plus”, we check the “tablet” (aka “chocolate”) and the generator. There is no “plus” - you will have to remove the instrument panel and check the lamp. Replace the burnt out one.

Let's start the engine. The control lamp should go out, the voltmeter needle goes into the green sector and is located from the middle to the right edge (photo). If everything is so, then most likely the generator is working normally.

The lamp does not light up, the voltmeter needle shows normal

Check fuse No. 10 in the mounting block. 99% of the time it will be burnt out. In this case, all other lamps on the instrument panel will also be de-energized. Replace it with the same one and test again. If the fuse burns out again, you need to look for the cause, that is, a short circuit. We check whether the wires from the generator are disconnected, whether the insulation is frayed somewhere, etc.

The lamp remains on or dims slightly

If you give it gas, it goes out at high speeds and lights up again when they decrease. The voltmeter needle is in the white sector and goes to the edge of the green when the speed increases. The generator output is faulty. The same conclusion if the lamp continues to light at any speed, and the voltmeter needle is in the white sector and even goes to red.

If the generator seems to be working, but the battery is gradually discharging, we will perform another check. We start the engine, turn on the heater fan and low beam, take the key to “10” and, loosening the negative terminal of the battery, remove it. An idling engine (about 900 rpm) should not stall. If the engine stops, put the terminal back in place and start it again. While holding the speed at 1200-1500, remove the terminal again. Has the engine stalled again? Then turn off the headlights, leave the heater fan on and repeat the test. Now the engine with the negative terminal disconnected from the battery continues to run. The generator output works, but does not produce the required current; it needs to be repaired.

Checking fuses of VAZ 2106 - 2107 with a multimeter

You also need to know how to check a fuse in a car with a multimeter because in some cases replacing it does not eliminate the malfunction; the circuit needs a more thorough check. Usually its failure is visible to the naked eye, but in some cases the break can be detected only after an instrumental check. To do this, use a car tester or even a simple voltmeter to measure direct current.

1. We attach the probes to the fuse.
2. Next, using simple manipulations, we melt the wiring inside the fuse. Therefore, we made a non-working fuse out of a working fuse. What won’t you do for a good article!? :-). Again we apply the probes to the fuse and look at the behavior of the multimeter.

3. The resistance is infinitely large, we do not hear any sound signal like “peep”. The fuse is broken. It can be thrown into the trash bin.

Diagnostics

The search for a faulty element begins with checking the battery charge level. To measure the voltage at the terminals, use a multimeter or voltmeter. It is necessary to take readings in two modes:

• without load with the ignition turned off and the minus terminal removed;
• under load: by turning the key in the ignition and turning on any consumer (low beam headlights, air conditioning).

The multimeter probes in voltmeter mode are connected in series: the positive terminal is a red contact, the negative terminal is a black one. The normal value of the battery voltage at rest with a 100% charge is 12.05 - 12.6 Volts.

Important!

The battery voltage directly depends on the state of charge: if the level is reduced to 10%, then the maximum voltage without load at the terminals will be about 11.3 Volts.

The test under load should be carried out carefully, observing safety precautions: when turning on the ignition, do not touch the power terminal and cable with your bare hands. The multimeter readings are taken twice: when the engine starts, and after 20-30 seconds. When starting the engine, the power current can reach a peak of up to 670 Amps, depending on the power of the unit. The battery supplies a significant part of the energy to the starter for the initial crankshaft rotation - at this moment the voltage at the terminals drops. A value of 8-9 V is considered normal; if the drop during startup is critical and reaches 6 V, then the battery is completely faulty.

Diagnostics

To check the installed relay, simply measure the voltage at the battery terminals, and it will become clear what condition it is in. To check what has been removed and is suspicious, the verification method is slightly different, but in any case it will help to identify:

1. Absence or poor contact in the brush holder terminals.
2. Broken brush conductors.
3. The relay itself is faulty.

A multimeter or a 12-volt test lamp, the power of which does not exceed 2 W, is simply connected to the regulator brushes. It is enough to apply 10-12 V, the lamp should light up or the multimeter should show the corresponding value. After this, a voltage greater than the nominal voltage is supplied - 16-20 volts. In this case, the relay should operate, but the lamp should not light. If the lamp continues to light when the voltage increases, then the regulator is broken and does not perform its functions. In this case it must be replaced

Also, when replacing, you should pay attention to the condition of the brushes. They should protrude beyond the brush holder by no more than 5 mm

This way you can test your regulator and save the battery from premature wear. Keep an eye on the network voltage, and have a good trip!

Worn brushes or broken generator relay

A multimeter or voltmeter will help determine the malfunction of the relay and brushes. It is necessary to measure the voltage at the terminals with the engine running and off.

Standards:

• with the engine off – 12.7V;
• with the engine running – 13.6-14.6V.

If the voltage decreases when you turn on the motor instead of increasing, inspect the diode bridge and brushes. Replace if found faulty. The diode bridge can often be independently soldered.

Diagram of the battery charging circuit on the VAZ-2107

The battery charging circuit diagram for the VAZ-2107 is the same as for other passenger cars. The mechanism of its action is as follows:

1. The battery is connected by its “negative” terminal to the body using a copper busbar.
2. The entire electrical system is connected to the positive terminal of the battery using two buses:
   the first tire goes to the starter;
3. the second bus is to the generator.
4. The “positive” terminal of the generator transmits voltage:
   on the fuse block;
5. to the ignition switch.
6. From the ignition switch, electricity is transmitted to the mounting block, which houses fuses (the one that protects this conductive circuit is marked “F10”).
7. Voltage is supplied from the fuses:
   to the “Charge Level Signal” control lamp (it is intended to notify you that the battery is insufficiently charged);
8. on a voltmeter, which shows digital voltage readings in a current-carrying circuit.
9. The next stage in the battery charging circuit is the transfer of current to:
   fuse box;
10. generator terminal 61 (brush assembly).

As you can see, a malfunction in this battery charging circuit can appear almost anywhere. For example, the contact breaks down, as a result of which the generator will stop efficiently charging the vehicle’s battery.

A light bulb may burn out due to a faulty electrical circuit.

A problem with the circuit that powers the battery light can be caused by several things. Let's consider everything.

So, problems with contacts are becoming quite common. Usually this situation occurs in the spring, after cold weather. During the winter months, moisture accumulates on the connectors, causing the formation of oxides. This makes the contact much worse, as a result of which the indicator stops turning on.

Electrical circuit diagram of VAZ 2107

As a rule, this problem does not appear immediately and is not stable. In other words, the light bulb may light up one time and not another time. The solution to this problem is to clean all connectors. They should be treated with a grease specifically designed for this purpose.

The light bulb may burn out due to an open circuit. To make sure of this, you should arm yourself with a multimeter. The device checks the circuit to determine the faulty section.

What to do if there is no charge, weak charge (battery is discharged)?

If the battery of your VAZ 2107 is discharged, then one of three elements may be “to blame”: the generator, the voltage regulator, the connections between them. Determining “who is to blame” can be very simple, even without additional equipment. How this article will help.

We carry out testing using standard equipment

To monitor the operation of the generator on the “seven” there are two instruments: a voltmeter and a control light on the instrument panel. With their help, you can track the cause of your troubles.

1) Turn on the ignition without turning on the starter

and look at the warning light. It should shine at full intensity, as in the photo. The voltmeter needle, normally, stands on the white part of the scale (photo). Let's say everything is OK - go to point 2 - start the engine.

The battery charge control lamp is on

Position of the voltmeter needle before starting the engine (ignition on)

The lamp does not light, the voltmeter needle remains at zero when the ignition is turned on.

Check fuse No. 10 in the mounting block. 99% of the time it will be burnt out. In this case, all other lamps on the instrument panel will also be de-energized. Replace it with the same one and test again. If the fuse burns out again, you need to look for the cause, that is, a short circuit. We check whether the wires from the generator are disconnected, whether the insulation is frayed somewhere, etc. Diagram 3 at this link will help you find the reason

The lamp does not light up, the voltmeter needle shows normal

We check the wires on the generator to see if the wire has come loose from terminal “61”. If everything is normal there, you need to check whether there is a “plus” on this wire using a test lamp, an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.

Terminal “61” of the VAZ-2107 generator

If there is a “plus”, we check the “tablet” (aka “chocolate”) and the generator.

There is no “plus” - you will have to remove the instrument panel and check the lamp. Replace the burnt out one. How to remove the panel, watch the video

2) Start the engine

The control lamp should go out, the voltmeter needle goes into the green sector and is located from the middle to the right edge (photo). If everything is so, then most likely the generator is working normally.

The voltmeter shows normal voltage (charging is present)

The lamp remains on or dims slightly

If you give it gas, it goes out at high speeds and lights up again when they decrease. The voltmeter needle is in the white sector and goes to the edge of the green when the speed increases. The generator output is faulty. The same conclusion if the lamp continues to light at any speed, and the voltmeter needle is in the white sector and even goes to red.

Voltage too low (motor running). Weak charge

3) If the generator seems to be working, but the battery is gradually discharged

Let's do one more check. We start the engine, turn on the heater fan and low beam, take the key to “10” and, loosening the negative terminal of the battery, remove it. An idling engine (about 900 rpm) should not stall. If the engine stops, put the terminal back in place and start it again. While holding the speed at 1200-1500, remove the terminal again. Has the engine stalled again? Then turn off the headlights, leave the heater fan on and repeat the test. Now the engine with the negative terminal disconnected from the battery continues to run. The generator output works, but does not produce the required current, it needs to be repaired, the diode bridge will need to be replaced.

Note! During such a check, it is better and safer to work together. Do not disconnect the battery terminal without at least turning on the heater fan or other load.

A voltage surge at the time of shutdown can “burn” the electronic elements of ignition systems

You need to be especially careful on a car with an injection engine.

Malfunction of the relay regulator

Another reason that the battery charging light is on, but there is charging, may be a failure of the relay regulator. It, in fact, is responsible for the timely switching on and off of this lamp. In VAZ 2106, 2107 cars, the relay is installed in the engine compartment on the upper part of the wheel mudguard on the right side. The principle of its operation is as follows. When the ignition is turned on (with the engine off), current from the battery flows through its closed contacts and powers the warning lamp.

When we start the engine, the generator turns on, supplying the relay with already rectified voltage. Under its influence, the armature of the device is attracted to the core, opening the contacts. The lamp should go out.

It is not difficult to check the relay yourself. To do this, just disconnect both wires from it and short them together. We start the engine and look at the warning light. If it does not light, we replace the relay.

What to consider when choosing a new battery

According to the passport, the battery is designed for 3-5 years of active use (in reality it turns out to be less). Therefore, over time, it becomes necessary to buy and connect a VAZ 2107 battery instead of a failed one.

When purchasing a new battery, you should consider a number of parameters and characteristics. Battery type: serviced and maintenance-free. The first option allows you to check and replenish the electrolyte level. This makes it possible to use the battery longer.

The next question is: what power will the battery on the VAZ 2107 be most efficient. Batteries with a capacity of 50–60 Ah are suitable for this model. However, given that modern cars are equipped with energy-intensive equipment, it is better to opt for more capacious batteries. In addition, carburetor VAZ models require more powerful batteries - they consume more energy when starting. In terms of dimensions, the VAZ 2107 requires power supplies with dimensions of 242*175*190 mm. The vast majority of samples available on the market fit them.

When choosing a battery, you should also take into account the place of residence of the owner of the “Seven”. For those who live in the south, you can purchase a less powerful battery. Northerners are advised to prefer a battery with a higher capacity: in the cold, the car starts with high energy consumption.

Troubleshooting

If you have identified the reason for the activation of this indicator, it’s time to start eliminating it. Below are the main problems and methods for solving them:

• You can eliminate the weakening of the belt or its rupture by adjusting the degree of tension or resort to replacing it;
• in order to clean oxidized terminals, it is enough to clean them using fine-grained sandpaper;
• in the event that the battery is discharged as a result of prolonged operation of electrical appliances with the engine turned off, it is enough to recharge it;
• If there are various internal damages, you should contact a specialist.

Faults such as failed “brushes” and generator wires, as well as broken windings or broken relays cannot be eliminated by repair. In this case, it is advisable to replace the spare part.

conclusions

By carefully monitoring the dashboard readings, you will be able to independently identify problems in the operation of your vehicle at first and avoid serious consequences. We also draw your attention to the fact that you can always order the parts you need from our company. We offer competitive prices and will help you save not only money, but also time, because you will not need to look for the necessary spare part in stores. We guarantee high quality and excellent performance. To place an order, call the contact phone number.

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The VAZ 2105 battery has boiled - what to do?

There are several reasons why batteries boil. Let's consider them in order of importance:

1. Recharging the battery
2. Short circuit of cans
3. Sulfation of plates
4. Electrical system overload
5. Battery polarity reversal

If the battery boils on your car while driving, you must immediately take the following steps:

• turn off the engine;
• open the hood to provide air flow; if the battery has a jacket, remove it; Allow the battery to cool to a temperature below 40 degrees Celsius (easily determined by touching it with your hand); close the hood, start the car and drive to the nearest gas station;
• purchase distilled water and top up to the required electrolyte level;
• if the battery is maintenance-free, topping up can be done through the gas outlet;
• if the repair kit contains a multimeter, measure the voltage on the battery with the engine running; if the voltage exceeds 15 Volts, disconnect the thick wire of the generator, carefully insulating it and securing it to the nearest body element;
• Continue driving to the parking or repair site, turning off, if possible, all additional comfort devices (stove, car radio, air conditioning and others).

Where to start checking

If the VAZ 2107 battery icon does not light up, the voltmeter gives normal readings, but the battery does not charge, which means there is no (or insufficient) contact at the terminals. Their severe oxidation can cause the voltage from the generator to the battery simply not to flow. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the terminals, thoroughly clean them, as well as the battery terminals, then reconnect the battery to the on-board network and check the functionality of the charging system.

In the case when the voltage on the VAZ 2107 battery is still below normal, you need to measure it at the output from the generator with the engine running. Is there a big difference between the readings on the terminal and on the battery? Try cleaning the contacts and checking the wire connecting the battery to the generator. Broken - requires replacement.

The next element that is checked is the generator drive belt. If it becomes loose, it will slip along the pulley, which is why the generator will not be able to generate the required amount of electricity. And although charging will be carried out (provided the circuit is in good condition), it will not be enough. At the same time, the engine is running, the voltmeter shows the norm. However, if the system is loaded a little more - for example, by turning on the headlights - then the voltage drops sharply. Then, if the battery charge on a VAZ 2107 disappears, this indicates that the tension belt is loose and slipping. The belt should be tightened; if it wears out during operation, replace it. But you can’t overtighten either: excess belt tension puts an overload on the pumps and generator bearings.

The third component of the circuit that is checked during the initial diagnosis is fuse No. 10 (in the fuse box). It is he who is responsible for supplying voltage to the battery: the VAZ 2107 battery charging fuse has blown - the system will not work.

Confronting attackers

Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”

Experts offer several options for preventing theft.

• Secure parking or secure garage.
• installation .
• Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
• Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
• Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.

But all experts agree that the most reliable protection for the VAZ 2107 battery against theft is comprehensive. A combination of multidirectional measures will give the best results!

Let's summarize:

As you can see, there are many reasons why the battery does not have charge. At the same time, a number of problems when the battery does not charge are common to different cars (for example, a VAZ 2107 is not charging or the battery of a foreign car is not charging). Moreover, some of them can be easily detected and eliminated with your own hands. The main thing is to determine why the battery is not charging, after which appropriate measures are taken.

Finally, we note that even ordinary car enthusiasts usually do not have problems with cleaning the terminals and restoring the integrity of wires and contacts. If the problem is with the generator, if you do not have the skills to repair it, it is only recommended to dismantle it yourself and then transfer the generator to a specialized service for repair. This will allow you to avoid common mistakes that are made when repairing a generator with your own hands, and also obtain a guarantee for the repaired device.

Battery does not have enough charge

Battery diagnostics

A common reason why the battery does not have time to charge is a large number of on-board equipment. The power supplied by the generator should slightly exceed the total consumption of the vehicle's electronics. The battery is charged due to this difference. If you installed new speakers, a navigator, a recorder, etc., and your battery immediately began to discharge, most likely the generator simply cannot cope.

After charging the battery, disconnect some of the consumers from the car's electrical network; if the light no longer lights up, the reason was an overload. The most reasonable thing would be to abandon some of the on-board electronics. If you cannot remove it completely, try disconnecting it from the network, connecting it only when necessary to use it.

Installing a more powerful generator is not advisable, but if absolutely necessary, this should be done by an electrician. Not all generators are interchangeable. When installing an incompatible one, the risk of serious damage to the car is high. It is important to take into account the difference, for example, between the VAZ 2107 and 2114. The electronics of the VAZ 2114 places higher demands on the choice of generator.