VAZ 2107 starter repair - removing, replacing and installing the starter yourself

One spring morning I went to the store. I went outside and noticed that the front right tire was flat. Without hesitation, I decided to pump it up. I took out the compressor and, so as not to drain the battery, decided to start the car. I turn the key and all I hear is uk-uk-uk and that’s it! I turn again again, uk-uk-uk. I tried to push start it and it didn't work. With a light it started only on the 5th attempt. Since this was not the first time I had such a situation (but he only just went into the blackout). After consulting with my father, I decided to buy a new one. The choice fell on a gear starter, because... People on the Internet gave very positive reviews. After visiting Saratov auto stores, I was simply shocked at the same KAZATE gear starter, the price ranged from 2500 to 3900 rubles! I went to buy a gearbox KAZATEE for 2500, but the store offered me a Samara starter, which cost 2400, motivated by the fact that the spare parts in it were the same and the quality was normal.

It's time for installation, in the field, right in the yard. The good old BATE hung on two bolts, so I didn’t need a pit or a lift. The main hemorrhoid was with the second side bolt, since I didn’t have a 13-mm head with a small ratchet on hand, and there was no other way to get it, I had to pay another 1000 for the set. But these are minor things. The main thing is the result! The car started in a jiffy! The sound is really like foreign cars) And people say that in cold weather it turns much better than usual, and takes less current. I've been riding it for two days, the flight is normal.

here is the first launch

Every person who knows even a little about cars knows perfectly well what a starter is and what it is needed for. To briefly describe its purpose, it is necessary in order to start the engine. It is a DC electric motor, which has quite a lot of power. Of course, every component and unit in a car tends to become unusable, and the starter is no exception. This means that at some point you will have to start repairing it. This article will discuss how to remove and install the starter on a VAZ 2107 yourself. Separately, it is worth noting that this car, as a rule, has an injection power system, but you can also find a carburetor “seven”.

Dismantling process

Removing the starter on a VAZ 2107 begins with the fact that you need to detect it. This point concerns beginners, because experienced drivers know where the starter is located. Located near the bottom of the power unit. It will not be possible to remove it while on the ground. You need to drive the car either into a pit or onto an overpass. In fact, awkward placement is the biggest problem in the removal and installation process. Otherwise, everything is very simple and convenient.

The actual dismantling process is as follows:

1. First of all, you need to remove the battery terminals. 2. Some 7 models have a mudguard, it is installed under the engine. It needs to be dismantled. 3. Remove the battery. 4. Unscrew the clamp of the wiring harness going to the starter. 5. Remove the wires from the traction relay. 6. Remove the stretch marks that come from the inlet pipeline. 7. The starter itself is removed.

The dismantling process is completed, and now you can take the starter for repairs, or replace it with a new one.

The above describes the process that is performed on cars with an injection power system. Do not forget that there are VAZ 2107 models with a carburetor installed. In such cars, the dismantling process has minor differences. The carburetor model does not have an intake pipe or stretch marks from it. This means you need to do this:

— Remove the wires from the traction relay. — Remove the air duct and the air filter. — Remove the starter.

Actually, the difference from the injector is only in one point, as you can see. As for the malfunctions that may occur, most often drivers are faced with the fact that the starter does not turn. In this case, it is better to install a new one, but you can send the old one for repairs, in the hope that a good repairman will come across who can fix everything.

Starter VAZ 2107

To start the VAZ 2107 engine, it is enough to turn the crankshaft several times. The design of a modern car allows this to be done without much effort using a starter, which in turn is activated by the ignition key.

Starter purpose

The starter is a DC electric motor and provides the vehicle's power unit with the energy necessary to start it. It receives power from a battery. The starter power for most passenger cars is 3 kW.

Types of starters

There are two main types of starters: reduction and simple (classical). The most common is the first option. A reduction starter has higher efficiency and is smaller in size, and requires less energy to start.

Reduction starter

On the VAZ 2107, the manufacturer installs a reduction starter. It differs from the classic version in the presence of a gearbox, and permanent magnets in the motor winding significantly increase the reliability and efficiency of the device. Such a starter costs about 10% more than a classic one, but at the same time has a longer service life.

A reduction starter differs from a classic starter in the presence of a gearbox

The weak point of such a starter is the gearbox itself. If it is made poorly, the starting device will fail before its usual time. The material from which the gearboxes are made deserves great attention.

Choosing a starter for VAZ 2107

The starter performs the most important functions in a car. Therefore, his choice should be taken as responsibly as possible. On the VAZ 2107 you can install starters from other cars, including foreign cars, with suitable fastenings and technical characteristics. The best option are models with a powerful gearbox - starters from the Chevrolet Niva or the injection seven.

When choosing a starter, you need to consider the following points.

1. Domestic ST-221 starters with a power of 1.3 W, which were installed on the first classic VAZ models, had a cylindrical collector. The drive gears were driven by electromagnets. The device of such a starter includes a roller overrunning clutch, a remote control and a solenoid relay with one winding.
2. Starter 35.3708 differs from ST-221 only in the design of the rear part and winding, which consists of one shunt and three service coils (ST-221 has two coils of each type).

These starters are more suitable for carburetor VAZ 2107. For sevens with an injection engine, it is proposed to install one of the following options:

1. KZATE (Russia) with a rated power of 1.34 kW. Suitable for carburetor and injection VAZ 2107.
2. Dynamo (Bulgaria). The starter design is optimized in accordance with consumer requirements.
3. LTD Electrical (China) with a power of 1.35 kW and a shorter service life.
4. BATE or 425.3708 (Belarus).
5. FENOX (Belarus). The design involves the use of permanent magnets. Starts well in cold weather.
6. Eldix (Bulgaria) 1.4 kW.
7. Oberkraft (Germany). With small dimensions it creates a large torque.

All manufacturers of starters can be divided into original and secondary:

1. Original: Bosch, Cav, Denso, Ford, Magneton, Prestolite.
2. Secondary: Protech, WPS, Cargo, UNIPOINT.

Among starters from secondary manufacturers, there are many low-quality and cheap Chinese devices.

The average cost of a good starter for a VAZ 2107 varies between 3-5 thousand rubles. The price depends not only on the manufacturer, but also on the configuration, delivery conditions of the goods, marketing policies of companies, etc.

Video: features of the KZATE starter

Helpful information

Of course, every driver wants his car to be the best. Often, due to the fact that the design of some individual parts is already outdated, this cannot be achieved. This also applies to the starter on the “seven”, which is already quite old. To correct this oversight, some people prefer to install a gear starter. What is his task?

It is designed to transmit rotation of the starter shaft to the flywheel through a gearbox. This method makes it possible to reduce the weight of the starter several times, and at the same time increase the starting torque by almost half. It is easy to guess that in this case the starter will work much longer.

All that remains is to purchase it and install it, the result will be visible from the first turn of the ignition key. The car will start like never before.

Advantages of a gear starter

In order to improve the quality of a domestic car, but not replace it with another model, motorists have found a solution - replacing spare parts.
If the VAZ 2106 is geared, then the car owner’s dream of a quick and trouble-free engine start becomes a reality. The replacement will result in the following changes to your vehicle:

• Quick engine start;
• Repairing a spare part requires much less frequent attention;
• A gear starter is smaller in size and weight, but has more power and energy consumption.

Car enthusiasts confirm that replacing a classic with a gearbox results in the engine starting equally easily at any battery charge level and even when it is almost empty. In addition, the advantages of a gear starter are that the battery is saved, the car engine starts easily even at low ambient temperatures, this part is more reliable and lasts much longer.

Conclusion

Every driver is interested in how much a regular and gear starter costs. In fact, the price is almost identical. The price of a regular one fluctuates around 3,500 rubles, and a geared one – 4,000 rubles. Considering this fact, it is of course more profitable to purchase a device that can breathe new life into the car. Considering that the installation and dismantling process will be carried out with your own hands, you will be able to save a lot.

A car starter is the main element of the engine starting system, and is designed to start it by cranking the crankshaft.

Essentially, it is a direct current electric motor driven by closing an electrical circuit by turning the ignition key. The autostarter consists of a stator, an armature (rotor), a brush holder with brushes, as well as a traction relay and a drive.

In all VAZ classic models, incl. and in the “seven”, it is located at the bottom of the engine, and is attached to the clutch housing.

Checking the VAZ 2107 starter

If the engine of a VAZ 2107 does not start, usually check the starter first. This is done as follows.

1. The starter is removed from the body and cleaned of dirt.
2. The output of the traction relay is connected by a separate wire to the battery positive, and the starter housing to the negative. If the working starter does not start to rotate, the test continues.
3. The back cover of the device is removed. Brushes are checked. The coals should not be erased by more than a third.
4. A multimeter measures the resistance of the stator and armature windings. The device should show 10 kOhm, otherwise there is a short circuit in the circuit. If the multimeter readings tend to infinity, there is a break in the coil.
5. The contact plates are checked with a multimeter. One probe of the device is connected to the body, the other to the contact plates. The multimeter should show a resistance of more than 10 kOhm.

During the process, the starter is checked for mechanical damage. All faulty and damaged elements are replaced with new ones.

Malfunctions

Considering that the starter is a complex electrical device, malfunctions in it can occur quite often, but most of them can be eliminated through repair. Malfunctions that cannot be repaired and require replacement of the entire assembly include:

• damage to the commutator due to brush wear or other reasons;
• short circuit or break in the stator winding;
• short circuit or break in the armature winding;
• complete wear of the armature bearing bushings.

Diagnostics of VAZ 2107 starter faults

The VAZ 2107 starter can fail for various reasons.

The starter hums, but the engine does not start

The reasons for the situation when the starter hums, but the engine does not start, may be the following points.

1. Over time, the teeth of the starter gear stop engaging (or do not engage well) with the flywheel. This usually occurs when the wrong engine lubricant is used. If you pour thick oil into the engine in winter, the starter will have difficulty cranking the crankshaft.
2. The gear that meshes with the flywheel may be misaligned. As a result, the teeth engage with the flywheel ring with only one edge. This is usually due to a failure of the Bendix damper system. Externally, this manifests itself in the form of a characteristic hum or grinding noise and results in broken flywheel or drive teeth.
3. There have been disturbances in the power supply system to the starter (brushes are worn out, terminals are oxidized, etc.). Insufficient voltage does not allow the starter to accelerate the flywheel to the required speed. At the same time, the starter rotates unstably, a hum and buzzing appears.
4. The pusher fork, which brings the starter teeth to the flywheel crown and removes them after the engine starts, has failed. If this fork is warped, the relay may operate but the drive gear will not engage. As a result, the starter hums, but the engine does not start.

The starter clicks but does not turn over

Sometimes the VAZ 2107 starter clicks, but does not spin. This may happen for the following reasons.

1. There are problems with the power supply (the battery is discharged, the battery terminals are loose or the ground is disconnected). The battery should be recharged, the terminals should be tightened, demining should be carried out, etc.
2. The fastening of the solenoid relay to the starter housing is loose. This usually happens when driving on bad roads or as a result of over-tightening the mounting bolts, which simply break while driving.
3. A short circuit occurred in the traction relay and the contacts burned out.
4. The positive cable going to the starter has burned out. It is also possible that this cable may become loose. In the latter case, it is enough to tighten the fastening nut.
5. As a result of wear on the bushings, the starter armature became jammed. In such a situation, replacement of the bushings is necessary (removal and disassembly of the starter will be required). A short circuit or break in the armature windings can also lead to a similar result.
6. Bendix is ​​deformed. Most often, its teeth are damaged.

   
   Bendix of the VAZ 2107 starter fails quite often

Video: VAZ 2107 starter clicks, but does not turn

Crackling sound when starting the starter

Sometimes when you turn the ignition key, a cracking and grinding sound is heard from the starter. This may occur as a result of the following faults.

1. The nuts securing the starter to the body have become loose. Rotation of the starter causes strong vibration.
2. The starter gears are worn. When starting, the overrunning clutch (Bendix) begins to make a cracking noise.
3. Due to the lack or absence of lubrication, the bendix began to move along the shaft with difficulty. The assembly should be lubricated with any engine oil.
4. Flywheel teeth damaged as a result of wear no longer engage with the starter gear.
5. The timing drive pulley has come loose. In this case, a crackling noise is heard when the engine starts and disappears after warming up.

Starter won't start

If the starter does not respond at all to turning the ignition key, the following situations are possible:

1. The starter is faulty.
2. The starter relay has failed.
3. The starter power supply circuit is faulty.
4. The starter fuse has blown.
5. The ignition switch is faulty.

It happened once to start the engine in winter, when the starter flatly refused to rotate through the ignition switch. I stopped the car at the lake where I went fishing. When I was putting it back together, the starting device was inactive. There's no one around. I did this: I found the control relay, removed the wire from it connecting the system to the ignition switch. Next, I took a long 40 cm screwdriver (I found one in my bag) and closed two starter bolts and one retractor bolt. The starter started working - it turned out that sometimes this happens with these devices due to cold and dirt. It is necessary to apply current directly to make the electric motor work.

Replacement

• socket wrench 10;
• socket wrench with extension 13;
• screwdriver.

Work order

1. We place the car on a viewing hole or overpass and secure it with the parking brake.
2. Open the hood and disconnect the ground wire from the battery.
3. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the bolt of the lower fastening of the starter heat shield.
4. We dismantle the air filter housing and the warm air supply hose (for injection units, remove the fastenings of the intake pipeline).
5. Using a socket wrench with a 13 mm extension, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the starter housing. It is better to unscrew the bottom bolt from the inspection hole.
6. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nut (on the injection engine there are two nuts) securing the starter shield. Let's take it out.

7. Using a socket wrench with a 13 mm extension, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the starter housing. It is better to unscrew the bottom bolt from the inspection hole.

8. Using the same tool, unscrew the nut securing the tip of the wire going to the “+” battery.
9. Disconnect the start relay wire.

10. We remove the starter from the rear wall of the engine compartment.
11. We install a new starter in its place.
12. We carry out installation work in reverse order.

How to check the starter for functionality without removing it from the car

First, check the battery charge level: frequent clicks when turning the ignition key most often indicate a low battery. Then find the starter in the engine compartment “wilds” and find a thick wire in an insulating braid, screwed to the solenoid relay. The second end of the cable is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery (it is advisable to recharge it in advance). Followed by:

• you will need a tester that needs to be switched to voltage measurement mode;
• Place the negative probe of the device on any metal part of the body or engine that is not covered with paint;
• plus touch the contact with the thick wire on the starter;
• ask an assistant to turn on the ignition;
• the device should show at least 12 V.

If the tester shows "0", check the integrity of the fuse and the thick wire. You should also make sure that it is securely connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the solenoid relay (tighten the nuts, clean the contacts). If the voltage on the device is less than 12 volts (assuming the battery is fully charged), then to determine the condition of the starter it will have to be dismantled and checked further.

How to check the solenoid relay without removing the starter

If the voltage is normal, but the starter is still on strike, you should proceed to further actions:

• prepare a screwdriver with a long blade and a thick plastic handle;
• check the ignition: it should be turned off;
• Use a screwdriver to close a pair of contacts on the traction relay to allow current to flow directly to the starter windings.

If the engine crankshaft begins to rotate, then the solenoid relay is at fault.

What if the flywheel crown is worn out?

If the crown has been ordered to live for a long time, then this can be felt in the literal sense of the word after removing the starter. Run your hand over the teeth and assess the degree of wear. If you need to change the crown, this is done after removing the gearbox. Carefully knock off the old crown from the flywheel. If it is being removed for the first time, then you can cheat a little and put it on the other side. The teeth are only half worn, so you can reuse the part to save money. This will save you 300-400 rubles, but if you want to install a new crown, do it. The new one is still stronger than the old one.

But you will have to warm it up on gas for several minutes; there are no other ways to install it on the flywheel. Carefully put the crown on, press it and wait a few seconds for the metal to cool and press the flywheel tightly. There is no point in removing the latter; everything can be done quickly enough if you have an inspection hole or overpass. After the work has been completed, check the operation of the starting mechanism; the starter should not feel any obstacles when rotating the rotor.

VAZ-2107 starter: device, repair and replacement on News4Auto.ru.

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Video

Details about the features of replacing the starter:

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! Especially hello, all owners of the VAZ “Seven”! Because this is exactly what we will be talking about – the VAZ 2107.

Although, the domestic auto industry has nothing special to boast about, given the model line and quality of cars produced, but still, there are examples of cars that should be paid attention to.

VAZ 2107 is a car that can deservedly be called a people's car. Thanks to its somewhat unusual design, this car stands out noticeably from the series of “classic” VAZ cars.

This fact, supplemented by minor design differences, was the reason why the model lasted quite a long time on the assembly line. At times it seemed that the “seven” would be produced forever, but time takes its toll.

Nevertheless, hundreds of thousands of cars of the seventh model are moving on the country’s roads, which will lead the popularity ratings among the “classics” for a very long time.

The design of the VAZ 2107 car is not fundamentally different from previous models. The biggest innovation in recent years has been the installation of an injection power system instead of the usual carburetor.

The rest is classic. This also applies to the starting system. That is why for every car enthusiast who bought a VAZ 2107, how to remove the starter remains a pressing question.

Removing the VAZ 2107 starter in the garage, do it yourself

As in most other cars, in the “seven” the starter is located at the bottom of the engine. In order to get to it, you need to have an inspection hole or overpass, since it cannot be removed through the top.

The inconvenient location is the only difficulty when dismantling the starter. Otherwise, everything is extremely simple; no special tools or special knowledge are required.

Removing the VAZ 2107 starter occurs only with the ignition off as follows:

• First, remove the battery cover and disconnect the ground terminal;
• the mudguard is removed, if one was installed in the lower part of the engine compartment;
• For convenience, the battery and support can be removed;
• the clamp of the wiring harness leading to the starter is unscrewed;
• unscrew and remove the wires from the starter traction relay;
• the three starter mounting bolts are unscrewed (two at the top and one at the bottom), after which the starter is removed under the car.

At this stage, the starter is completely ready for repair or maintenance.

Self-replacement of VAZ 2107 starter

If you can find a good, knowledgeable assistant to repair the starter, then you will have to install it back into the car yourself. This activity is not at all inconvenient, but quite responsible, so it should be carried out very carefully in compliance with the order indicated below.

In order to replace the VAZ 2107 starter, or rather, install it in its original place, you must do the following:

• Before installation, carefully inspect the starter, its equipment, build quality, and the presence of a centering sleeve;
• the starter is installed in its regular place at the bottom of the car and screwed with the longest bolt, after which the other two mounting bolts are screwed in and tightened;
• the wire terminals are installed and the nuts are tightened;
• wire harness supports are installed and secured;
• the battery support is screwed on, the battery is put in place;
• the battery terminals are connected, the protective cover is closed;
• The functionality of the electrical system is checked and a dirt shield is installed.

Starter activation relay

On all classic Zhiguli models, except for the Seven, power to the starter is supplied directly from the ignition switch (IZ). This design has a significant drawback - the contacts oxidize and burn, which leads to premature failure of the contact group. This is due to the fact that a current exceeding 15 A flows through the lock. On the VAZ 2107, in order to reduce the load on the lock contacts, they began to install an additional starter relay rated for a current of 30 A. This switching element consumes a small current, which does not reduce the reliability of the contact group.

The starter activation relay is rated at 30 A.

Where is

Structurally, the starter activation relay is located in the engine compartment on the right side. It is attached to the mudguard (part of the body) using a stud and nut. It is not difficult to locate the relay; to do this, it is enough to trace where the wires from the starter solenoid relay are routed.

The additional starter relay is located under the hood and is mounted on the right mudguard.

Examination

If you encounter difficulties starting the engine on a VAZ 2107, you first need to check the operation of the start relay. If the part turns out to be serviceable, troubleshooting can continue. To diagnose the switching element, you will need a multimeter or a “control” (a regular 12 V car light bulb and wires to connect it). Relay performance is determined as follows:

1. We remove the connector from the relay and check the condition of the contacts in the block and on the relay itself. If necessary, we clean them with sandpaper.
2. We check the presence of ground on contact 86 of the block. To do this, we check the resistance relative to the body with a multimeter; it should be zero.
3. We measure the voltage at pin 85 while trying to start the engine. The parameter must be equal to 12 V. When the ignition is turned on, terminal 30 must also be supplied with power. If it is present on the contacts, the problem lies in the relay.
4. Remove the additional relay by unscrewing the nut with a wrench.
5. We apply voltage from the battery to contacts 85 and 86 of the relay and make sure with a multimeter, setting the dialing mode, that terminals 30 and 87 are connected to each other. If this does not happen, then the relay must be replaced.

How to determine the need for an oil change?

If your VAZ 2107 car is equipped with an oil pressure sensor, this will make it much easier to determine when to replace or add oil

You need to pay attention to the oil pressure in different operating ranges of the engine. When the lubricant decomposes, the pressure indicator shows an increase in pressure in the system when starting or operating the engine for a long time.

This occurs due to boiling and dilution of the lubricant in the engine crankcase. If there is no pressure sensor, you need to rely on the recommendations of the auto company’s engineers. They recommend changing the engine oil every 6 thousand kilometers for short distances or after 10 thousand kilometers when operating the car for long distances. We have a separate detailed article on our website with video instructions on the topic about changing the oil on a VAZ 2107.

Where does the repair begin?

All work starts somewhere. And this one is no exception. First, you need to understand what is wrong and only then think about what can be done and how to fix the problem.

Troubleshooting.

To correctly determine, you first need to think and see what the cause of the problem may be:

• If, after turning the key in the ignition, the engine does not start, check the lights on the display. Extinguished or weakly burning and fading light bulbs indicate a malfunction in the battery: it is discharged, or the terminals are not tightened properly. Every driver has a tester in his car that allows him to check the voltage and capacity of the battery without removing it.
• If the battery has nothing to do with it, you need to check the position of the speed switch and, if necessary, put it in the “P” position.
• Next, you need to find out whether power even reaches the starter from the ignition switch?

Advice! The easiest way to do this is on the red wire connector connecting the starter and the unloading relay.

This work can be done in two ways:

• Method 1: - take a copper wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 and insert it into an open connector. One end to the battery terminal and the other to the starter. In this way, ignition is simulated.
• Method 2: - here you need two people: one turns the key in the ignition switch, and the second uses a control probe to touch the tip of the wire coming from the unloading relay. If the warning light comes on, it means there is no damage to the ignition switch or the relay.

Preliminary work

We install wheel chocks

Performing a few simple steps related to preparing the VAZ 2107 for repair work will significantly save your time, improve the quality of maintenance and will guarantee the safety of your health.

1. The place where the machine will be serviced must have good and uniform lighting. In some cases, this can only be achieved through the use of additional lighting.
2. Due to the fact that the starter in the VAZ 2107 is located in the lower part of the engine, work on its dismantling should be carried out on an overpass or inspection hole. It is not possible to remove the starter from the top.

The machine must be securely secured using the parking brake or wheel chocks. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the vehicle will start moving spontaneously.