Springs and shock absorbers for the front and rear suspension of VAZ 2106, 2107, 2101, 2105

The need for such an event as replacing the rear springs of the VAZ 2106 is caused by their wear or destruction. Wear is expressed in the subsidence of the car during operation; destruction occurs with constant overload or driving on country roads. Some car enthusiasts remove springs in order to change worn rubber spacers, which can also cause the car body to settle.

Replacing the VAZ 06 springs can be done on an open, flat area, having good anti-recoil means, since the car will have to be raised and lowered several times. The process itself is simple; almost every VAZ 2106 owner can do it. To do this you will need:

• jack and wheel wrench;
• wheel chocks or comfortable stones;
• a set of spanners or open-end wrenches;
• 2 spring ties;
• low wooden block or cinder block;
• powerful flat screwdriver;
• hammer;
• fabric gloves.

During such repairs, cloth gloves are worn to avoid injuring your hands during the work on the protruding parts of the suspension and car body. Spring ties can be found from one of your car enthusiast friends; many VAZ 2106 drivers have this device in their arsenal. As a last resort, it can be purchased at an automotive supply store. Replacing springs also involves replacing rubber spacers, which serve as a gasket between the upper coil of the product and the glass in the car body.

Content

VAZ 2107 is a classic of the Soviet automotive industry. The car is really good in many ways. But, unfortunately, it also has a lot of disadvantages, especially for domestic roads. And the main one is the soft suspension. On the one hand, this is good, because it absorbs bumps and the car is comfortable to drive. Plus, you get less stress on your spine. On the other hand, a soft suspension worsens the car's handling during maneuvers. And it is not particularly reliable.

As for the Classic specifically, it has always been and continues to be used as a workhorse. And an additional disadvantage of the soft suspension on this car is that with heavy loads on one of the axles, the car begins to “sag”. It gets to the point where the wheels begin to cling to the arches. When it comes to options for improving the suspension, there are many. If finances allow, you can contact tuning specialists and they will make significant improvements. If your budget is limited, you will have to do everything yourself.

HOW TO CORRECTLY INSPECTION THE SUSPENSION

Despite the fact that the dependent rear suspension on the VAZ 2107 is particularly wear-resistant, drivers should still closely monitor its condition (especially if you often drive on bumpy roads). To do this, you just need to drive the car onto a lift or use a pit. All damage and malfunctions will immediately catch your eye.

Particular attention should be paid to the following points:

• wear of rubber elements;
• gaps between car parts;
• traces of oil leaks on telescopic shock absorbers;
• the rubber bushings of the rods must be motionless, that is, have no play;
• If the bushings are very loose, the rods must also be replaced.

Since the rear suspension axle device is supported only by rods and holes located on the bottom of the shock absorbers, the maneuverability and behavior of the car depend on its condition. If you replace the necessary elements in a timely manner, your VAZ 2107 car will serve you faithfully for many years.

Video tuning of VAZ 2107 suspension

Good afternoon everyone! I decided to raise my car for the winter and delved into numerous articles on this matter, and then I realized that there are a million opinions, and perhaps this entry is being read by someone who has encountered the same problem - what to install?

I wanted to raise it to stock or to Niva, I hesitated, delved into Drive2 and the entire Internet. There are many options and conflicting opinions, I want to write my opinion, maybe it will help someone.

Front struts - Niva Rear struts - Ordinary classic (in my case Hola oil) Springs all around Niva. (Class A or B, I don’t know, it wasn’t written).

Well, add new bolts, rubber cushions, and upper cups.

Next are the input abstracts -

1) You have to cut the springs, so they won’t fit - Everything fits in without any problems! 2) The niva springs have a very stiff suspension, gear crusher, etc. — this is not true, the suspension is of course stiffer than stock, but to say that it is stiff does not turn the tongue, it is somewhat similar to the Japanese like the Outlander in terms of stiffness (I am comparing very very roughly). 3.) After 80 mph the car is uncontrollable. — I drove up to 120 mph and didn’t notice any problems. 4) Be careful on the highway it will be unstable so high - there are no problems with this either.

Just a couple of nuances! As you can see, I have very plump wheels, which themselves absorb shocks well. I also have a completely new trapezoid, steering gear, pendulum, balls, so if all this is broken, it is quite possible that the car will not handle well at speed, in this particular case, it handles well (by the standards of a classic Lada). Rolls appeared in corners. but they are not critical, at highway junctions it doesn’t heel me much, it doesn’t throw me out of the saddle, there is also a slight vertical sway at the junctions, during sharp braking, it squats a little during a sharp start, but all this is no more than on the standard (I rode the standard on its 2103).

Front suspension assembly disassembly sequence

Replacing the front springs of a VAZ 2106 is somewhat more complicated; you will need to completely unscrew or remove the shock absorber or unscrew its lower mounting bracket, which is not very convenient. The operation is complicated by the fact that the stand is located inside the spring and will not allow it to be removed. Otherwise, the process is very similar, only the block will need to be placed under the lower suspension arm. The key here is to maintain consistency.

1. Remove the wheel, place a block under the lower arm so that you can unscrew the shock absorber.
2. Having opened the hood, unscrew the shock absorber rod from above, and the 4.5 bracket bolts from below, remove the part.
3. Place the ties on the spring and do not fix it without putting the pins in a long box.
4. Unscrew the steering wheel all the way to gain access to the lower ball joint nut. Loosen and unscrew the nut, and lightly hit the bushing with a hammer to knock the ball joint pin out of it. The force of the compressed spring will help push it out.
5. Now you can raise the jack and remove the spring along with the ties. Further work is performed as described above.

In order not to buy new springs, VAZ 2106 owners often purchase higher rubber spacers, these are commercially available. They are also placed under the rear springs

in order to raise the rear of the machine to transport heavy loads. In this case, the matter becomes simpler. After removing the tie part, there is no need to twist it, just change the rubber product, and then assemble the entire assembly.

Replacing springs on the famous “classic” is a long-established procedure that will only require some time and physical effort from its owner. Turbine for VAZ 2106 To replace the windshield on a VAZ 2106 car and Place the windshield on it like a windshield. But you won’t have to pay for it at the service station.

When it's time to replace

There are several signs by which you can determine that it is time to replace the springs. These signs are:

• Detection of damage and defects in the product design. This malfunction can be determined by visual inspection, but first you need to put the VAZ 2107 car on an overpass.
• Their significant subsidence. If the vehicle's ground clearance decreases significantly, this indicates sagging of the devices in question. Springs quickly sag in such cases when the car is used to transport heavy loads every day. Also, those cars that are used as taxis also require frequent replacement of the devices in question.

If you find a problem with the springs on a VAZ 2107, then you should replace them without delay. This will extend the life of other suspension elements and save money. It is recommended to replace devices in pairs, since replacing only one element will cause the body to skew, which will negatively affect driving. In some cases, spacers help when the springs have sagged but are not deformed. Experts believe that you should not get carried away with spacers, since the physical properties of a car with spacers are many times worse. As a result of such modifications, the suspension does not function correctly, which affects many factors: from control to comfort. Therefore, if necessary, it is better to replace the springs, both rear and front. We will learn how this is done on a VAZ 2107 from this material.

Replacing the front springs of a VAZ 2107

Replacing the front suspension elements on the “seven” is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, you need to install the car on an inspection hole or overpass, and then begin to remove the wheels, having first jacked them up.
2. The front shock absorber needs to be removed.
3. The nuts that secure the lower arm to the axle are loosened.
4. Using a second jack, you need to place it under this lever, thus adding the suspension load. This is done to make it easier to disconnect the stabilizer.
5. At this moment, you can use special spring ties (if available) to secure the springs in a compressed state. This will make further removal actions much easier.

The front springs of the VAZ 2107 need to be changed in pairs, just like the rear ones.

Changing the rear springs on a VAZ 2107

Replacing the rear springs of a VAZ 2107 is carried out according to the following principle:

1. Install the jack and remove the wheel.
2. The pressure regulator rod in the brake system is unscrewed.
3. The rear pipe tee bracket is unscrewed.
4. The shock absorber fastener at the bottom is unscrewed.
5. Jack up the car and thereby release the shock absorber and spring fasteners.
6. Now you can remove the spring, which also has a rubber spacer. If the spacers are deformed, they should be replaced.
7. Replace the removed springs with new ones, installing all the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing products, it is important to purchase special ties, as shown in the photo below.

Replacing the rear springs is much easier and faster, so it will take half a day to replace all four products.

What springs to install

It remains to figure out the question of what springs to put on the VAZ 2107? Instead of standard products, you can install reinforced devices. The replacement principle is similar, but the result will be significant. The suspension with reinforced devices will become stiffer, but it is important to know that at the same time you will need to install new shock absorbers (more powerful).

Many car owners are wondering what springs are best to install on a VAZ 2107? The best option for a rear-wheel drive sedan is products marked 2101. They are quickly and easily installed in standard places and do not require modifications. When choosing products, you need to pay attention to their manufacturer. There are many manufacturers, both domestic and imported, but it is important to pay attention to the cost. When choosing, pay attention to the stiffness class of the springs, the number of turns and their thickness. There are two types of hardness:

Replacing suspension springs on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands

We will replace the springs of the VAZ 2107, but before changing these elements, you need to make sure that this is really necessary. We approach the front of the VAZ 2107, grab the hood with our hands and begin to rock the body down. If the spring is in good condition, then the body should quickly return to its original position, which means there is no need to replace anything.

However, if the body continues to swing or is still not raised, then the springs will have to be replaced with new ones. We carry out a similar operation with the rear of the car. In order to prevent spring breakage or other unpleasant consequences, drivers carry out preventive replacement of springs one by one on each axle. Do not forget that car springs are constantly exposed to impacts from small stones, etc. All this leads to the fact that the surface of the spring is damaged, even if it is of very high quality. Moisture and dirt easily penetrate into damaged areas, which leads to corrosion. Corrosion gradually leads to breakdown of this place, so be careful; it is recommended to change the springs of the VAZ 2107 every 30,000 km. In addition, they need to be changed after an accident on one of the machine’s axles. Over time, the spring sags; many factors contribute to this, for example, due to the poor quality of roads. this phenomenon is called 'metal fatigue effect'. Here, too, you need to immediately change the spring, because in this state it does not function correctly, which means the entire suspension does not work correctly, which leads to premature wear of other parts. Let's take a closer look at the spring breakage itself.

In the case when a spring breaks off at the end, it is practically not felt; the car stands level. However, no matter where the breakdown occurs, this negatively affects its driving characteristics, since the kinematics of the suspension are disrupted and the position of the point of application of forces changes. As a result, the vehicle becomes dangerous to drive, even if problems are not felt. If an extreme situation occurs, it may happen that the shock absorber simply jams. As soon as the service life of the springs has passed, and this is determined by the manufacturer, they need to be replaced. When dismantling the old spring, remember how its ends are installed, because the new ones will need to be seated in the same way. There is no point in changing the spring if you are keeping the old shock absorbers, since they are closely connected to each other. The VAZ 2107 spring is considered a wear element. In case of timely preventive replacements. then serious damage can be avoided. First of all, remove the VAZ 2107 wheel, then remove the shock absorber. Slightly loosen several nuts securing the lower arm of the front suspension to the axis of the lower arms. Then we disconnect the clip of the stabilizer cushion and remove the cushion. Using a press, remove the lower ball joint pin from the steering knuckle. We insert the jack under the lower arm, without putting any load on the front suspension of the VAZ 2107, and unscrew the pin fastenings. Slowly lower the suspension and use a mounting blade to move the stabilizer through the upper pin securing its bracket. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

CHECKING THE REAR SUSPENSION

To check the condition of the rear suspension of the VAZ “Seven”, the only tools you will need are a mounting blade, and the car itself will need to be installed in an inspection hole. Diagnostics consists of the following steps:

1. We check the tightness of the fasteners of all elements of the rear suspension, and if loose connections are found, tighten them.
2. We diagnose shock absorbers by alternately rocking the rear of the car by the wings or bumper on the left and right sides. After the applied effort, the body should return to its initial position, making just one upward movement. If one of the shock absorbers has lost its properties or traces of fluid leakage have been noticed on the element, both must be replaced. The shock absorber fastenings must be free of play, and the bushings must not show signs of cracking.

   
   To check the rear shock absorbers, rock the car by the rear fenders or bumper.

3. We inspect the springs. If a sagging part is detected or cracks are detected, both springs must be replaced.
4. We check the rear axle rods for damage (cracks, curvature, etc.).
   To check the condition of the silent blocks of the reaction rods, we insert a pry bar between the bracket and the eye of the rod, trying to move the rod itself. If this can be done, the rubber-metal hinges need to be replaced. It is quite easy to check the condition of the reaction rods using a mounting spatula.

CONDITIONS FOR REPLACEMENT, TOOLS

You can change the rear springs yourself even in the absence of an inspection hole (only a jack is sufficient). You can find out the dimensions of the socket heads and spanners required to unscrew the upper or lower shock absorber mountings in the repair and operating manual for your car model. In some cases, having two jacks will make the process much easier. Replacing rear suspension springs will be much easier if you use special ties. For example, on a VAZ 2101, 2102, 2106, 2107, you can remove the old spring and install a new one using conventional installation, but the design of the rear suspension of many other cars will not allow such a trick. We will show you how to change rear springs without zip ties, but we recommend using this method only if absolutely necessary. The price of screeds is not so high as to sacrifice your own safety.

DIY REPLACEMENT GUIDE

We will demonstrate the replacement procedure using the example of a VAZ 2101-2107. After reading the instructions, you can easily carry out this procedure on another car, since the basic provisions apply to all types of rear suspension.

1. Loosen the wheel bolts.
2. Raise and secure the rear part of the car on the supports. Be sure to install the wheel chocks diagonally (if the rear right side is raised, the chocks are installed under the front left wheel).
3. Unscrew the lower shock absorber mounting. If for any reason problems arise with the bottom bracket, you can unscrew the top mount. The shock absorber will limit the travel of the beam (on cars with rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive - the rear axle), so we need to disconnect one of its fasteners from the car body.
4. Using a pry bar, pry the lower end of the spring by the coil to release it from the mounting groove. There is no need for such manipulations if the spring is slightly tightened with ties.

HOW TO CORRECTLY INSTALL NEW SPRINGS

On many cars, there are special grooves in the upper and lower cups for fixing the outer turns

During installation, it is important not only to clean the seats from dirt, but also to ensure that the outer turns are positioned correctly. Just on the VAZ 2101-2107, the upper rubber spacer, like the metal ring, have a special groove

In order not to guess the location of the spacer, before installation, secure it with adhesive tape to the upper turn, and then install it in its assembled place. During the operation of the car, the rubber damper often sticks to the body, so to remove it you will need a large impact screwdriver or a crowbar. We recommend watching the video, which clearly shows the process of self-replacement.

BEAM WITH BUSHING BLOCKS

This type of beam is installed on Daewoo Lanos, Opel Astra F, Vectra A and many other foreign cars. In order not to tear the silent blocks, it is advisable to unscrew their fastenings. If defects in rubber products are detected, we recommend replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam at the same time. Please note that replacement must be done one at a time, since the beam is attached to the body only with silent block fastenings and shock absorbers.

As practice shows, the rear springs can be changed without unscrewing the silent blocks. To increase the beam travel, it is enough to jack up the lower part of the beam on the opposite side. To do this, lift the body with a jack and secure it on the supports. Remove the wheels, then place the jack as close to the end of the beam as possible. Raising in this place will provoke lowering of the beam on the replacement side.

HOW TO CHANGE SPRINGS WITHOUT TIES

If on a VAZ classic you can do without tightening, then on many other cars, removing old springs and installing new springs without tightening is simply impossible. In the absence of a puller, you can get out of the situation as follows:

• jack up the beam on the replacement side;
• Twist the spring with thick wire from two opposite sides. Remember that the effort is serious and you need to approach the matter responsibly;
• lower the beam and pull out the spring;
• compress the new spring using a stop and a lever in the form of a beam of sufficient length or a metal channel. Secure it in a compressed state with strong wire;
• install a new spring element;
• lift the beam until the spring contacts the pads;
• loosen the wire.

Shock absorber malfunctions

There are a number of indicators by which you can determine that the shock-absorbing elements of your car have become unusable and will need to be replaced in the near future. Otherwise, difficulties will arise in driving the car, and the braking distance will increase.

Oil leaks

The simplest sign indicating damper wear is the appearance of oil smudges on the body, which can be determined by visual inspection.

If such signs occur, it is recommended to verify that the element in question is faulty by sharply pressing the rear fender with your hands and releasing it. If the part is working properly, the suspension will slowly sag and return to its original position. When the shock absorber is not functioning properly, the rear of the vehicle will bounce on the spring, quickly returning to its original position.

Video: identifying a faulty damper without removing it from the car

Knock and squeak when driving

The most common cause of knocking in shock absorbers is fluid leakage. If there are no signs of leakage, it is necessary to carry out the test described above with the machine rocking. The knocking noise may also be the cause of damper wear. If a part has traveled more than 50 thousand km, then you should think about replacing it. Common causes of knocking also include air entering the outer cylinder of the damper due to an oil leak. You can try to fix the problem by bleeding it. If, while the car is moving, a squeak is heard from the rear suspension, then the cause of the malfunction may be worn rubber bushings of the upper and lower shock absorber lugs.

Uneven tire wear

Problems with shock absorbers can also be noticed by uneven tire wear, which significantly reduces their service life. This is explained by the fact that while driving with a faulty damper, the wheels often come off the road surface and cling to it again. As a result of this process, the rubber wears unevenly. In addition, you can notice wear in the form of patches, which is due to imbalance of the wheels. Therefore, the tire tread condition must be periodically monitored.

Sluggish braking

If the shock-absorbing elements are faulty or there are problems in their operation, the contact of the wheels with the road surface worsens. This leads to short-term tire slippage, reduced braking efficiency and increased brake pedal response time, which in some cases can lead to accidents.

Plunging and pulling of the car to the sides when braking

Malfunction of the shock absorber valves, as well as wear of the seals inside the product, can cause noticeable swaying of the body when you slightly press the brake pedal or move the steering wheel. A clear sign of a malfunction is strong body roll when cornering, which also often requires steering. A malfunction of the shock-absorbing elements is also indicated by dives of the front or rear of the car during sudden braking, i.e., when the front end drops strongly and the rear lifts up. The vehicle may pull to the side, for example, if the rear axle is not installed level. This is possible when the longitudinal rods break and subsequent poor-quality repairs occur.

Car instability on the road

If the “seven” behaves unstably while moving and is thrown to the sides, then there may be many reasons for this behavior. It is necessary to inspect the condition of the elements of both the front and rear suspension, as well as the reliability of their fastening. Regarding the rear of the car, it is worth noting that attention should be paid to the condition of the shock absorbers, rear axle links, and rubber seals.

Instructions for working with rear springs

Before starting the replacement, you should slip 2 boots under the wheel located diagonally from the one being removed. Replacing the rear springs begins with unscrewing the wheel without removing it; later, you need to place a block under the end of the rear axle beam without lowering the jack. The entire mass of the car will rest on the block and will not compress the spring. Engine number, On a VAZ 2106 car, model and number, engine model, mass. The block should be positioned in such a way as not to interfere with unscrewing the lower shock absorber mount. Further on the annotation.

1. Loosen the shock absorber mounting nut, unscrew it and do not remove the long bolt. The shock absorber must be unscrewed so that you can remove the spring later.
2. Place ties on the coils of the spring 5 from the reverse sides, do not securely fix them, pressing them by the studs with a wrench.
3. Raise the surface of the car body with a jack until you can remove the spring together with the ties.
4. You, the rubber spacer sticks to the metal of the body and does not remain in the glass, only the steel ring falls out. I have been thinking for a long time about replacing the front windows of the VAZ 2106 with glass, like the VAZ 2106. Therefore, it is necessary to pry up the rubber using a long flat-head screwdriver so as not to remove it from the socket.
5. Loosen the grips of the ties, alternately unscrewing the studs with a wrench. Replacing tie rods on VAZ 2101, 2103, 2105, 2106 as with VAZ collapsible tie rods. Rearranging the ties on the new spring will not tighten it to the approximate size of the old one.
6. Place a new rubber spacer with a steel washer on the upper coil of the spring. Its configuration is such that it should coincide with the shape of the upper turn.

how to remove and install rear springs

VAZ
cars of the traditional series, tips for replacement, a short review.

We remove and do not install the rear

double spring. The headlights on the VAZ 2109, however, as in the models, are used in the left and right headlight units. Subscribe to my video channel: .

1 — lower longitudinal rod; 3.5 — rubber bushing; 3 — bracket for fastening one of the longitudinal rods to the body; 4 — spacer sleeve; 5 — upper longitudinal rod; 6 — additional compression stroke buffer; 7 — spring; 8 — upper spring cup; 9 — compression stroke buffer; 10 — upper insulating spring gasket; 11 — shock absorber; 12 — lower insulating spring gasket; 13 — transverse rod.

1. Install the part into the socket together with the ties, supporting it with one hand, and lower the jack with the other until the grips of the ties relax.
2. Remove the ties, screw on the shock absorber, and do not perform subsequent assembly in reverse order.

Return to contents

REAR SUSPENSION STRUCTURE

Oddly enough, the design of the dependent rear suspension on the VAZ 2107 is simple, but has a number of its own features. Its main part is an element such as the rear axle, which connects the wheels to each other into one axle. Its beam is mounted to the car using so-called reaction bars. There are five of them in total: four longitudinal (they are located below) and one transverse (it is located behind the beam and does not allow it to move). The connection of these parts is made by special hinges - silent blocks.

1. one of the springs;
2. telescopic shock absorber;
3. rod (transverse);
4. the beam itself;
5. longitudinal rod (upper);
6. longitudinal rod (lower).

Two cylinder-shaped springs and buffers for their compression stroke are the main components of the rear suspension on the VAZ 2107. The lower part of the springs presses on the cups, which are attached to the beam, through dense rubber gaskets. The upper parts of the springs are located in the support cups of the body, and between them there is a device in the form of a gasket for insulation.

Two compression stroke buffers are made of rubber and are located in the springs themselves. An additional buffer is attached above the rear axle housing (to the very bottom of the body). It serves as a vehicle to absorb the load placed on the vehicle while driving through bad terrain at high speeds, or when other buffers fail.

In order to reduce vibration of the rear axle, the suspension device includes telescopic shock absorbers.

Replacing the lower front suspension arm on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2 cars

The lower lever on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Zhiguli cars must be changed if: the lever is bent or cracks are found on it (it is not recommended to cook the lever), the silent blocks rotate lugs. This work cannot be called easy. But it also cannot be called unfeasible. In order to replace the lever with your own hands, you first need to think about the tool, and then about spare parts. And it is not just words. For example: to remove the lever you will need a spring puller. Without it, you may not only fail to put the spring back in place (let’s say you managed to remove it painlessly), but also get serious injuries. Also, I would like to remember about the ball joint remover and the device for pressing in and pressing out silent blocks. In principle, the last point can be excluded, but only if you purchase a lower lever assembly (a lever with a lower axle and silent blocks). But this option has a small disadvantage - the price. Although, what am I going to tell you when you can visit the market yourself and decide what will be easier and more profitable for you.

Let's get down to business. You can see the tension puller for springs and the puller for ball joints in photo 1. You can see the devices for pressing silent blocks and understand how to work with them by reading this article. What’s next... On the tool. I will not make a detailed list, I will list it in an abbreviated version - open-end and ring wrenches (13, 17, 19, 22), a pry bar, a hammer and a chisel. And a special key for fixing the front shock absorber rod will also be useful in this work, photo 2. Spare parts. If you nevertheless bought a lever assembly for your beloved Classic, then you have almost nothing to worry about. If not, then let's look at what else you should buy (besides the lever). First, two silent blocks for the lower arm (if you are going to change both levers, right and left, you will have to buy four silent blocks). Two thrust washers (internal) on the axis of the lower arm. The axle itself can also present a surprise, so we can also advise you to buy it (I had it, “just in case”), along with thrust washers and nuts - photo 3). Looking ahead, I will say that in my case the axis was not useful. Only the thrust washers were used. Now, as always, a point-by-point description of replacing the lower front suspension arm on a VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Zhiguli car: 1. Jack up the required side and remove the wheel.2. We remove the front shock absorber - photos 4 and 5.3. We install a tension puller into the spring (preferably grab 5 turns) and compress it - photo 6, 7, 8.4. Now you can unscrew the anti-roll bar bracket, unscrew the lower ball joint nut and unpress the ball pin - photo 9, 10.5. Push the lever down and remove the spring (photo 11).6. Unscrew (19mm wrench) the two nuts securing the lower arm to the beam (photo 12). And remove the lever. It may not be possible to remove the lever right away. And to fix this, you will have to pick up a chisel, a hammer and a pry bar. We hammer the chisel between the lever axis and the beam, which will allow you to tear the stuck axis off the bolts. Yes, and we try not to lose the adjusting washers (photo 13) and remember on which side how many washers there were.7. The lever has been removed. Next, if the lever is assembled, we put it on the car. If not, then press the removed lever in order to get the axle (photo 14). After that, we assemble the lever - installing the axle and silent blocks. Photos - 15, 16, 17, 18, were taken on a different day and with a different lever, but I think they will still be useful to you. 8. That's all. From the side we do it in the reverse order. Before assembly, lubricate the bolts of the beam and the axle journal, for example, with nigrol. Lastly, we tighten the nuts (22mm wrench) of the lower arm axle, with the car completely lowered to the ground (this is necessary for the silent blocks to work correctly). Well, it looks like I haven’t forgotten anything! )))

About the choice of springs

As mentioned above, the choice of springs should be based on the purpose of the vehicle. Those who drive fast install hard springs, and those who love comfort install soft ones. There is another situation in which replacement is indispensable: the springs may get tired. It's simple: over the years, the elasticity of any spring decreases. If this happens with the rear springs of the "seven", then the rear of the car begins to sag greatly, and the wheels, falling into a particularly deep hole, begin to touch the fender liners with a characteristic grinding sound. After this, the driver is simply obliged to install new hard springs. Which ones to choose?

VAZ springs

If the springs wear out, the best option would be to install a set of standard rear springs for the VAZ 2107. If for some reason it was not possible to purchase “original” springs, there is a second option: springs from the VAZ 2104. They are slightly stiffer than the “original” springs, and drivers who prefer aggressive driving style, you will probably notice an improvement in the car's handling. Also, springs from the “four” are installed by those who decided to transfer their “seven” to gas fuel. Gas cylinders are heavy, therefore the rear springs must be stiffer and their free travel must be shorter. Finally, there is a third option: springs from a VAZ 2101. Today, it is not always possible to purchase new springs from a “kopek”, since the “kopek” has long been discontinued. But if you still managed to get such springs, the suspension of the “seven” will become softer after installing them.

About springs from foreign cars

It is not recommended to install rear springs from foreign cars on the VAZ 2107. The fact is that the parameters of these springs do not even come close to the standard VAZ springs. Springs on foreign cars are designed for a different car weight, a different body type, different shock absorbers, etc.

Installing springs from foreign cars on a VAZ 2107 is impractical

If the driver decides to install them, he will have to seriously modify the 7's suspension and will almost certainly have to change the rear shock absorbers, which will lead to additional costs. But even such measures do not guarantee normal operation of the suspension. Therefore, drivers who are tuning their “sevens” prefer not to mess with springs from foreign cars, getting along just fine with the VAZ springs mentioned above.

Work order

1. If there is no hole or repair overpass, select a flat place with a margin around the machine.

2. The front wheels are tightly fixed on both sides using improvised means (shoes).

3. Lightly loosen the rear wheel bolts on the first side.

4. One side of the car is lifted with a jack and a safety trestle is installed.

6. Place a hydraulic jack under the edge of the rear axle and lift it slightly to relax the shock absorber.

7. Unscrew with two 19mm wrenches and carefully tap the bottom bolt of the shock absorber.

8. The jack is completely released so that the bridge hangs on the reaction rods (rods).

9. Using a pry bar or a screwdriver, the spring is removed from its regular place on the stocking and removed (towards you, slightly to the side).

Using a pry bar, carefully remove the rear spring of the VAZ-2107

10. Use a wire brush to clean the landing areas for new parts.

11. Installation of a new spring, scrolling until it fits into the standard groove.

Lowering the suspension as an option for tuning it

Many car enthusiasts prefer that the higher the ground clearance (the so-called ground clearance), the better. And they are partly right. Domestic roads can very quickly “kill” a low suspension. However, when tuning, some owners of the Seven set themselves completely opposite goals. They want to lower the suspension, giving the car a sportier look. How logical is this in conditions of poor road surface?

In fact, low suspension has its advantages. For example, the car's handling in corners improves. This is achieved due to less roll (the level of the center of gravity decreases). Another advantage is changing the appearance of the car. She becomes more athletic and aggressive. Finally, reducing resistance allows for reduced fuel consumption.

The main options for reducing clearance

The first option, which is considered the most economical, is to shorten the standard springs. You can do this yourself or, if you don’t have the necessary tools and skills, entrust it to a novice specialist. This operation can be performed without removing the spring

It is important to remember that the springs are shortened by a different number of turns (front, for example, by two, and rear by three). This is due to the fact that the weight of the machine must be distributed evenly

The advantage of this method is low costs. As for the disadvantages, these include the risk of breaking both the spring and the shock absorber. Another option is to purchase and install shortened springs. Such springs are often called sports springs. The main costs here are associated with the purchase of finished parts. The advantages of this method include the fact that you can return everything to its place at any time (after all, the standard springs are not shortened). In addition, you can carry out such an operation yourself. The only thing is, upon completion, you need to contact specialists to perform camber/alignment work.

You can also reduce the ground clearance using a coilover. These are the springs that allow you to adjust the ground clearance. This option is the most convenient, because even if you were not able to achieve the expected result the first time, you can always adjust the desired suspension height without having to buy new parts. The advantages of this method include the versatility of coilovers. They are installed with both sports and conventional shock absorbers. They are adjustable according to your wishes. Finally, they are quite easy to install yourself. As for the minuses, there is only one – the price of the issue.

Kinds

Today you can find several varieties of such parts. They can be like this:

• Standard types, intended for use in urban environments;
• Reinforced parts. For production, rods with an increased diameter are used. Designed for vehicles that are designed to transport large loads, when compared with conventional vehicles;
• Raised parts are used when it is necessary to slightly increase the vehicle's ground clearance;
• Lowered products are used to reduce ground clearance, this can increase the dynamic performance of the car;
• Variable stiffness of parts is used to ensure a smooth ride and comfort in all road conditions.

Helpful information

A short rod unscrewed from the stocking will facilitate dismantling and installation. For ease of assembly, a new rubber spacer and a metal lining are fixed to the spring with electrical tape or tape. Reinforced springs with VAZ 02 - 04 will increase the load capacity, but the car will become rougher to drive. It is easier to replace the torque rods with new ones without wasting time pressing the bushings in a vice. When experimenting with the height of the springs, you should remember the length of the shock absorber stroke. They may have to be lengthened or different ones used. During disassembly, the brake hose receives extra stress, which can lead to damage.

Follow safety precautions and replacing rear springs will not be a hassle.

AvtoVAZ began production of the VAZ 2101 in 1972. More than three decades have passed since then, but the concept of the “Classics” was discontinued only recently, less than a year ago. Over the course of 300 years, the car has acquired a huge number of supporters, and just as many enemies who hate the domestic auto industry. Let's not take either side. It’s better to talk about how we can improve this line, and more specifically, the VAZ 2107. I must say, this car lends itself well to tuning, although many believe that this task is a useless and thankless task. But in fact, tuning a VAZ is quite simple, relatively cheap and quite interesting. Thus, even minimal modifications make the car much better than it is. Not to say that “it can’t get any worse,” but the fact remains. So, external tuning, which is mainly used for domestic cars, is always capable of changing a VAZ for the better. But, as a rule, things rarely go further than that. But in order to make your car unique, you need to approach this activity with a creative component, so to speak, in a versatile way. After all, the aerodynamic body kit of the VAZ 2107, no matter how effective it is, is not capable of making it drive at a speed of 200 km/; this requires completely different modifications. We will not go into details of increasing power, we will turn towards improving maneuverability.

Rear shock absorbers from Niva on VAZ 2107

On sale are reinforced springs and spacers. what to prefer? VAZ-2101. 2107.

It's no secret that Zhiguli sedans, from VAZ-2101 to 2107, have a common weakness - rear suspension springs. Probably chosen for “comfort” reasons, they work acceptably when the machine is not very loaded. And under full (albeit within normal) load, they are compressed so much that on an uneven road the rear axle beam can hit the bump stops. This can also be caused by problems with the shock absorbers, especially if the car is far from new. Over time, due to changes in the structure of the metal, the stiffness of the springs also decreases - they sag, the compression stroke becomes very small, and under heavy loads almost disappears. In general, as a movie character would say, with such springs there is no life!

Placing spacers under the springs will not really solve the problem. Firstly, metal fatigue takes its toll - and one day the spring simply breaks. Secondly, frequently repeated impacts destroy the bump stops; in addition, cracks appear in body parts, especially if the spring is compressed before the coils collide. That is why the installation of rubber spacer rings, although it increases cross-country ability, is still rather self-deception.

There are also rubber inserts on sale that are designed to be installed between the coils of a weakened spring. Their main drawback is the same as that of spacers; Let's add fragility to this.

Meanwhile, springs from the VAZ-2104 station wagon are allowed to be installed on the Zhiguli sedan. These springs are 21 mm longer - hence the additional load capacity.

There is another option - however, which did not receive the go-ahead from VAZ - replacing the standard rear springs with rear springs from Niva.

The table shows the basic data of various springs.

Rear suspension springs for Zhiguli

* Load required to compress the spring by 1 mm.

As can be seen from the table, with almost identical geometric dimensions, the spring stiffness of the Niva is higher than that of the classic ones by an average of 22%. The advantages of these springs are illustrated in the figure.

Changing the length of springs depending on the load.

Keep in mind: there are products on the shelves whose data, to put it mildly, do not correspond to those given in the table. They often turn out to be longer than even those intended for the VAZ-2104 and, moreover, differ in the number of turns.

When installing station wagon springs on sedans, the clearance in the rear suspension area increases by approximately 20 mm over the entire vehicle load range. Before the bump stops touch, you can load 40 more kilograms into the car than with standard springs. However, gradually the sagging of the springs will sooner or later negate this gain. (More likely, it’s too early, because the spare parts are not of high quality.)

When installing the rear springs of a Niva, the clearance on an empty car will also increase - almost the same as when installing springs from a VAZ-2104. However, with a further increase in load, the clearance will decrease significantly less. For example, before the bump stops touch the car, you can load 90 kg more than with standard springs. In addition, the amplitude of vibrations of the rear suspension will decrease - the suspension will become stiffer.

Disadvantages - increased load on the body, which can lead to premature cracks, and increased wear of standard shock absorbers during rebound. Indeed, with a heavy load and normal rebound motion, the “shot” force is much higher. And with a small load, the rebound stroke decreases - the car seems to stand on tiptoes, although the spring force is normal. If we remember the principles of suspension operation, it is clear that the “orchestra” is somewhat upset. Here the shock absorbers, in an amicable way, need different ones, with higher rebound resistance. Thus, the car enthusiast has several options to choose from.

About the modernization of VAZ 2107 springs

The driver, trying to eliminate the “innate” shortcomings of the suspension or solve a specific problem, can resort to upgrading the rear springs either by shortening them or using spacers. Let's consider each case in more detail.

Spacers for springs

Domestic roads have never been of good quality. But the VAZ 2107 has never had high ground clearance. At some point, the driver gets tired of slowing down in front of each hole and decides to increase the ground clearance of his car using special spacers. They are small ring-shaped gaskets made of wear-resistant materials. Let's list the types of spacers.

1. Spacers mounted between the turns. This is the simplest and most popular way to increase the ground clearance of a car without resorting to major modernization. No special skills are required to install interturn spacers. The wheels are jacked up and lifted in turn, and the springs are slightly stretched. After this, a spacer, previously moistened with soapy water, is installed between the turns. You can find such spacers in any spare parts store.

About spacer materials

Special attention should be paid to the material of the spacers, because this is the most important point that determines the reliability and durability of not only the springs, but also the entire suspension. So, spacers are:

Now a little more about each of these materials:

Polyurethane spacers are quite easy to install, but do not differ in durability. Their main problem is that the spring greatly deforms them, and this happens in the shortest possible time. Especially if the driver constantly drives on uneven roads. Over time, due to the deformation of the spacers, the shock absorbing bushings begin to touch the car body, seriously damaging it;

On the advisability of installing spacers

The advisability of installing spacers is a very controversial issue, discussions on which continue to this day. Spacers have many supporters and many opponents. If a driver comes to a car service center and asks to install spacers, they are installed. But as a rule, specialists first try to dissuade the driver from this operation. Their arguments usually boil down to the following:

• After installing the spacers, the suspension arms will be constantly lowered by several centimeters. This leads to a violation of the geometry of the entire suspension. Consequently, the suspension will work differently. There may be changes in the track width, in the vehicle's handling, in the angles of inclination of the wheel axles, etc. Under normal conditions, all this will not be too noticeable. But in emergency situations, impaired controllability can lead to very sad consequences;
• installing spacers increases the load on the suspension. Shock absorbers wear out faster, as do silent blocks. Because the mating angles of the steering rods and drive wheel shafts change after installing the spacers.

Comprehensive measures to improve the 2107 suspension

By partially or completely replacing suspension parts, you can achieve excellent handling and the required rigidity from the 7, and by applying additional measures, you can increase the life of the suspension. The only thing that cannot be influenced is the design of the ball joint, which has a short service life on almost all VAZ cars of the classic family.

Many people install the so-called spar stretcher. This cross brace prevents the spars from firing individually under high loads. The extent to which this design justifies itself is not known for certain, but theoretically, it should increase the service life of the front part of the body, and in particular, the side members and thrust cups for shock absorbers. Polyurethane silent blocks and bushings are often used, but it is advisable to install them carefully, otherwise all vibrations from the suspension will be transferred to the body.

Which hard and soft shock absorbers are better to install on a Chevy Niva

With such simple means you can slightly change the characteristics of the 2107 suspension and adapt the car to your individual driving style. Drive around potholes carefully and keep the roads smooth for everyone!

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Published August 30, 2016

Why do some classic users laugh at this modification? h0, is it too hard on your ass?))

Is it possible to install Niva front shock absorbers on a VAZ classic?

A friend installed it, tried a lot))) in the end he installed Koni 30-1324 and the rear Koni 30-1325, they come with a stiffness adjustment and says that it works very well on them.

It’s possible, you yourself say that only when the levers move all the way down does the spring catch the lever, you still need to look for such a hole so that the wheel falls into it at full speed. In normal operating conditions on the road, it is unlikely that it will ever get stuck.

Purpose, malfunctions and replacement of front shock absorbers VAZ 2107

car VAZ 21011 (1976) installed Niva front shock absorbers (manufactured by Master) 80 thousand km, rear Niva shock absorbers (manufactured by Hola) 20 thousand km - mileage of the car with these shock absorbers. After installation, the car became more rigid (more consistent - there are no unnecessary swings, which has a positive effect on handling)

the downward stroke has become greater, and the upward stroke less. and when hitting an obstacle, the stock one will have a move, and the long Niva one will have a dildo, a blow. I don't think it's worth installing it. IMHO

1200 rub. for the photo report

We pay for photo reports on car repairs. Earnings from 10,000 rubles/month.

Write:

The same shock absorbers were installed on VAZ 2101 - 2106 cars, since this line of vehicles differs little from each other. For VAZ 2106, 2105, 2104, 2103, 2102 and 2101, the only manufacturer of original shock absorbers has always been the Russian Skopin Automotive Assembly Plant. By design, these are usually two-pipe oil struts.

In general, the quality of factory shock absorbers is not very high. The main problems include too much roll when cornering, and periodically occurring extraneous sounds.