How to replace a VAZ-2109 TV with your own hands

Sequencing

First, we’ll tell you how to replace this part yourself. You will need to prepare the car - sequentially disassemble it from the engine compartment so that you have access to the radiator. Dismantle it and the old part. Next you need to do:

1. Sand the new part (it is covered with shipping primer) and re-paint it with automotive primer. Do this only in advance, since later it will be impossible to do this work from the engine compartment.
2. Use a chisel and hammer to remove the old grate.
3. Clean the welding points, putty and coat with primer. Take measurements and weld the new frame. Place the weld points where they were.
4. Paint the outside of the structure. It is advisable to additionally cover it with anti-gravel.
5. Reassemble the car in reverse order.

Replacing the TV is extremely important, as if it is weak, it may sag and break. The cost of this work at a service station is quite high, so car enthusiasts often try to make the replacement themselves.

Tuning and repair of VAZ 2110

Not long ago I encountered a problem: the engine on the radiator side began to become covered with something oily. It was impossible to determine where the leak was coming from. Therefore, I washed the engine using chemicals intended for washing engines and Karchers. After driving for a couple of days, I drove the car into a pit, took off the engine protection, since you can’t really look under the hood. And I saw streaks in the crankcase area, namely in the area of ​​the oil pan gasket. So I established that the gasket had become unusable. In this article I will tell you how to replace the oil pan gasket of a VAZ 2110. I want to say right away that such a repair will require an overpass or a pit.

1. Remove the engine protection.
2. Drain the oil. If you recently had an oil change and don’t want to spend money again (this happened to me too, I change the oil every 10 thousand, and after the change and before problems with the gasket I drove 7 thousand km), then drain it into a clean container. I took a six-liter bottle from under the water.
3. Now you need to unscrew all the bolts securing the pallet - there are 16 of them. Be careful not to lose the shaped washers under the bolts.

1. Remove the old gasket.

6. Install a new one, having first thoroughly coated the places where it fits with sealant. 7. Place the VAZ 2110 oil pan in place. 8. Reinstall the 16 bolts. It is better to tighten it from the center to the edges of the pallet, this way the gasket will fit better. 9. Fill in the oil drained before repair. Or if you decide to change the oil in one fell swoop, then follow the instructions described here. 10. Install engine protection. That's the whole process of replacing the oil pan gasket. As you can see, there is nothing complicated. You can do this VAZ 2110 repair yourself and not overpay. __________________________________________________________________________

Source

How to weld a TV on a VAZ 2109 video

The VAZ-2109 was produced quite a long time ago.
Over the years of service, its radiator grille was exposed to an aggressive environment in the form of salts and moisture. It is for this reason that more and more often motorists have to change it. Replacing a VAZ-2109 TV yourself can only be done if you have a welding machine. How to replace a VAZ-2109 TV with your own hands

Sequencing

1. Sand the new part (it is covered with shipping primer) and re-paint it with automotive primer. Do this only in advance, since later it will be impossible to do this work from the engine compartment.
2. Use a chisel and hammer to remove the old grate.
3. Clean the welding points, putty and coat with primer. Take measurements and weld the new frame. Place the weld points where they were.
4. Paint the outside of the structure. It is advisable to additionally cover it with anti-gravel.
5. Reassemble the car in reverse order.

Replacing the TV is extremely important, as if it is weak, it may sag and break. The cost of this work at a service station is quite high, so car enthusiasts often try to make the replacement themselves.

How to amplify a new TV on a VAZ-2109

It is necessary to drill holes around the perimeter of the new TV to help secure the part more securely. Through them you can fasten the grille with self-tapping screws. Next, install the headlights, look at the gaps and weld the structure. Clean the weld spots.

Step-by-step replacement of the VAZ-2109 door lock cylinder

To strengthen the structure, weld a profile pipe at the bottom. Weld it to the walls, and then install the second part of the TV. The pipe profile should be square 50x50 millimeters.

Postcard template for February 23

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Delivery by transport company

Delivery by one of the transport companies with a representative office in your city. Delivery time: 2-10 days depending on the distance of your locality from Togliatti. The most convenient and fastest way to deliver orders of different sizes. Delivery cost from 250 rub. depending on weight and delivery distance.

Orders are sent by transport companies based on 100% payment for the order. Dispatch by transport companies PEK, KIT, Baikal-Service is carried out on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.

How to amplify a new TV on a VAZ-2109

In the process of self-repair, you can strengthen the structure. To automate the process, the old TV is removed using a drill. Therefore, the upper and lower parts are often removed separately. During the process, monitor the condition of the bottom - the place where the part is attached to the body. You will need to join two sheets of metal. To do this, leave the width only 2 millimeters, many masters leave 5, which is wrong. Carefully, slowly, remove the metal to leave the desired sheet width.

It is necessary to drill holes around the perimeter of the new TV to help secure the part more securely. Through them you can fasten the grille with self-tapping screws. Next, install the headlights, look at the gaps and weld the structure. Clean the weld spots.

To strengthen the structure, weld a profile pipe at the bottom. Weld it to the walls, and then install the second part of the TV. The pipe profile should be square 50x50 millimeters. Thanks to this profile, the structural parts will not rotate. On 16-valve engines, it is imperative to use a pipe, since this power unit is heavier in weight. After you have made the first welding points and secured the part, remove the screws and weld the structure again.

Replacing a TV on a VAZ 2109 is not changing the wing; you have to work hard. In terms of time, this activity can take 5-6 hours. The reason for replacement is most often the age of the car and the constant exposure of the lower part of the radiator grille to an aggressive environment, which actually causes it to rust. In a weak spot, the TV may burst and lead to breakdown with serious consequences, since the motor may sag. You can replace the radiator grille yourself (if you have a welding machine), but it is better to take it to a service station.

The VAZ 2109 speedometer drive is a common cause of its breakdown

The VAZ 2109 has a mechanical drive. Its driven and drive gears are mounted on the (secondary) shaft of the gearbox. From them, the torque is supplied through a flexible shaft to the car’s speedometer, which is located on the instrument panel.

It is the break of this shaft that most often becomes the reason that the speedometer stops working, and this already leads to difficulties with cornering (changing gears correctly can be quite difficult) and unpleasant meetings with traffic police officers (the likelihood of a fine for speeding is high). As a rule, the shaft breaks near the entrance to the checkpoint. You can check for a break like this:

• the shaft (flexible) is disconnected from the speedometer on the instrument panel;
• start the engine and drive 20–30 meters, while carefully monitoring the end of the shaft.

In cases where the tip is stationary (does not rotate), it must be pulled out by opening the hood and freeing the shaft from the fastening with the union nut. In cases where only its shell is pulled out, the shaft is completely torn off. The remaining tip can be removed from the drive only with pliers and nothing else. If the shaft comes out together with the shell, this means that the edges have been “eaten off” at its tip. It is not broken, but due to this defect it cannot transmit torque. However, in both the first case and the second, the flexible shaft will have to be replaced with a new one.

VAZ 2109: replacing the radiator frame on your own

Radiator frame and its repair

The body structure of the VAZ-2109 car is made in the form of a metal frame. The frame is welded from stamped parts by spot welding. Therefore, you can change individual body elements without passing through other places. On a VAZ 2109, the radiator frame is replaced when cracks appear on it. Since the engine mount is installed at the bottom of the frame, when it is loosened, the engine itself sags. Replacing the VAZ 2109 radiator frame can be done easily and on your own.

VAZ 2109 TV replacement

VAZ 2109 TV replacement

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VAZ 2109

The guys had a bad trip to get beer) A blow to the front!

Disassembly - removing the bumper, protection, radiator. Along the way, replacing the “crabs” - they split upon impact. Cutting off the bottom of the jammed part. The part is cooperative - I had to cut off and re-weld the engine mount mount, bore holes for the mounts... All intervention points were treated with anti-corrosion agent and mavilya. The gaps are set at the factory!

By Evgeniy | 10/27/2014 | Examples of work | VAZ, straightening, welding

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Sequence of actions when replacing a TV on a VAZ 2109

1. All spare parts of the new radiator are covered with shipping primer, which will have to be torn off, re-primed with automotive primer and painted. This must be done before installation on the car, since after, from the engine compartment, there will be no such opportunity. 2. Dismantle the old radiator grille. Basically, it is always attached by welding, and no bolts are used, so we remove the spot weld using a chisel and hammer. 3. The next stage of replacing the VAZ 2109 TV will be the installation of a new radiator grille. It is necessary to make a control measurement and weld a new frame. A mandatory procedure is to clean the welding points with a grinder, followed by putty and primer of the entire surface. 4. The preparatory stage is completed, you can start painting the TV from the outside. The TV is not necessary, but it is also advisable to treat it with anti-gravel. 5. Install all car parts in reverse order. Replacing the TV on a VAZ 2109 is completed.

The VAZ-2109 is a car that is not distinguished by a strong body; iron quickly succumbs to corrosion, and almost all body parts rust. Replacing the front spar is required when its metal is rotten in different places; the part is also replaced if it is severely deformed after an impact (accident).

Report: TV repair (front panel).

TV - the front bar under the hood on which the radiator, headlights, etc. are mounted.

After a frontal impact, it very often becomes unusable, deforming and taking on part of the load from the impact. During repairs, they usually don’t repair it, but simply bend it “in place”; naturally, it doesn’t hold anything after that. They do this because in the Capella (as in most cars) the TV is welded. But for example, in Mark-2 it is bolted.

Repair as such consists of: - removing the TV from the car - straightening and repairing - installation on the car

Corrections and repairs are done only by the most stubborn, normal people buy used ones for disassembly (along with pieces of side members). They wanted to give it to me for 3000 rubles, yeah right! After the repair, I climbed onto the existential, there is a horizontal bar for 3000 rubles, and vertical ones for 600 rubles, moreover, they are new in the ground, blah!

Equipment and materials. To remove the TV: - Drill + drill bit for drilling out welding points

To repair it: - Straightening hammers - Something to repair it on (anvil)

To put back: - Resistance welding machine - Kriptsangs

I’m not even talking about the fact that you need a set of screwdrivers, keys, pliers, you have to work with gloves, etc. Straight arms are also desirable. I won’t talk about how to sculpt and clean the putty, apply primer and paint; look for rules for using sandpaper and blocks in any textbook for bodybuilders. It would be a good idea to inspect the condition of the bolts and nuts, as well as run the threads in all threaded holes (I broke 3 bolts).

This is what the car looked like before the repair:

Get hit in the face:

This is what happens to the TV:

A couple more angles:

Like everyone else, I first decided to quickly straighten it out with wooden blocks - yeah, I ran away. It didn't look even at all (I thought I took a picture of it).

It seemed to be outwardly even, but in fact the lock was 2 cm deeper than the hood, and the hood naturally did not close.

The procedure is as follows. We disassemble the face: remove the bumper, headlights, bumper buffers (if the car is hit in the face, it’s a piece of cake to remove). We unscrew the front pieces of hardware on which the headlights and air conditioning tank are attached. In the photo it is still hanging, unscrew it. We also unscrew and remove the air conditioner pipes going to the radiator (I couldn’t remove the TV without removing them, except by sawing it into 3 parts). We also remove the wiring. In short, we make it so that only a piece of iron remains from the TV.

Remove the wings if desired. The desire must be very strong, because... To remove them you need to unhook the fender liner, and to do this you need to remove the wheel, you need to jack it, etc. Therefore, you can unscrew only 4 bolts and place a wooden block. Here you can see:

Replacement

To carry out repair work, you need to prepare tools, materials, power tools:

• complete set of keys;
• locksmith - chisel, hammer;
• electric welding machine;
• electrodes dia. 2 mm;
• drill;
• drill dia. 5-6 mm;
• a grinder with a grinding wheel, have a metal disc in stock;
• primer;
• paint;
• solvent;
• aerosol can with anti-gravel composition in black Body 950;
• cotton gloves;
• canvas mittens;
• rags;
• fire extinguisher – you need to check the expiration date;
• plastic containers for 6-7 liters, they can be made from 10 liter canisters;
• safety glasses;
• tassels;
• moisture-resistant sandpaper.

Preparing the machine

Replacing the lower cross member of the VAZ 2109 radiator frame
Place the vehicle on a flat surface:

• Open the hood.
• Open the expansion tank cap.
• Place a container under the cooling radiator and open the drain plug.
• Drain the antifreeze.
• Place the second prepared container under the engine and drain the antifreeze from it.
• After this, install and tighten the plugs.
• Disconnect both terminals from the battery.
• Remove the battery.
• Place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.

Tip: before lifting the front end, it is advisable to remove the rims. Since when carrying out welding work, a spark may fall on rubber cylinders.

• Raise the front of the car with a jack.
• Install standard supports.
• Align the front part of the body level. You can apply a level.
• Remove the front decorative grille.
• Unscrew the headlight mounts from the engine compartment and disconnect the terminals.
• Take them out and put them on a rack in the garage.
• Unscrew the upper radiator mounting. First remove the electrical wiring terminals from the fan and remove the wires as far as possible from the intended work area. If possible, wrap the wires with tarpaulin.
• Tilt the radiator towards the engine and unscrew the clamps securing the pipes.
• Remove the pipes. Move them away from the front end.
• Remove the radiator and fan assembly.
• Remove the radiator inserts from the lower channel.

Preparing the frame

VAZ 2109 radiator frame panel

When carrying out work by one car enthusiast, it is necessary to prepare the purchased parts:

• Clean the frame parts from transport primer. Pay special attention to welding points and bends.
• Use welding to weld the joints.
• Clean with a grinder. If necessary, straighten.
• Apply a solvent with a brush to degrease the metal.
• It is necessary to prime the internal parts first, since after they are installed from the engine they become inaccessible.
• After checking these parts on site, mark them.
• Connect them together with clamps.
• Carry out welding work to connect them. Start welding parts from the top and gradually move to the bottom.
• Clean welded joints.
• Strip the front of the frame down to metal.
• Cover with primer, then paint with one coat of paint.
• The sealant is applied.

While the parts are drying, you need to cut off the old frame.

Removing the old frame

Note: before cutting, you need to select a flat piece of wood and cut it to fit the space from left to right. Make marks on the block for the frame, at the installation sites and in the middle of the frame. To prevent welding sparks from hitting important parts, place a sheet of metal in front of the engine and cover the engine itself with a tarpaulin. After this, start cutting.

So:

• Using an electric drill, drill out the spot welds at the fastening points. The outer part of the frame is welded to the side members (see Replacing the front side member on a VAZ on your own).
• Now use a chisel to cut off the remaining weld seams.

Note. If it doesn’t lend itself well, put a cutting disc on the grinder. Carefully, taking great care when cutting, trim the welding areas.

• Remove old frame.

After cutting the frame, inspect the internal surfaces of the engine compartment. If necessary, correct any detected defects. Apply primer and sealant.

Replacing the distributor (ignition distributor) on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099

Direct replacement

1) First, de-energize the engine system by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. (Instructions and procedures are described in the article: “Replacing the battery” in the first paragraph).

2) Next, disconnect the high voltage wires from the distributor cover.

3) Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum regulator fitting.

4) Then completely unscrew the top nut securing the distributor and wire holder.

5) Remove the holder from the car engine.

6) Use your hands or a screwdriver to disconnect the wire block from the distributor.

7) Now unscrew the two remaining nuts that secure the distributor at the bottom: use a wrench to unscrew the left nut of the distributor.

Then unscrew the right nut.

Remove the distributor directly from the engine of the car.

Installation: 1) First, remove the two screws from the cover and remove it.

2) Then turn the slider with strictly outer contact opposite the “first cylinder” terminal located on the cover.

3) Install the distributor in the reverse order of removal.

4) Place the negative terminal on the battery and set the initial ignition timing. (We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the process in the article: “Installing the ignition”).

Changing the cover

1) First, disconnect all high-voltage wires from the cover.

2) Then use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the plastic cover to the distributor.

3) Remove the cover and replace it with a new one.

Note! The cover on the distributor is installed in only one position. And the high voltage wires are put on the cover in the order: 1-3-4-2. There is a marking “1” on the distributor cover itself, start counting from there in order, counterclockwise.

Replacing the slider:

1) First, remove the cover according to the instructions described above.

2) Next, remove the slider from the shaft by pulling it with your hand.

Note! The slider is installed in its place only in one position, when the slot on the shaft is directed in the opposite direction from the contact!

Additional materials Below is a link to a video with information on today's topic:

To replace the VAZ 2109 clutch basket you need to prepare the following tools:

• standard set of keys;
• jack.

Do-it-yourself repairs are quite advisable, since the price for replacing a VAZ 2109 clutch as of March 3, 2022, on average in car services is 3.2 thousand rubles.

But self-repair is quite accessible even without an assistant, and without completely removing the gearbox. The principle of repair and the sequence of work are identical for models 2108-2115, so we suggest you see how such dismantling is performed on a VAZ 2114:

Purpose of the spar

The spar is a load-bearing body element, which is a beam, serves as the basis for fastening the components and components of the car, and also plays the role of a shock absorber, softening the impact, absorbing deformation. The “nine” is equipped with paired front and rear spars; these body elements experience significant load.

If a car can move without problems with a dented fender and a rusty door, then the car should not be driven with a deformed front spar (PL). If this part is damaged, quite serious problems may arise:

• tires will quickly begin to be eaten away;
• the car is poorly controlled;
• the body loses strength and collapses.

If the condition of the spar is not the most critical, it can be welded, the geometry can be corrected on a special stand (slipway); in case of severe deformation or if there are cracks, the body element should be replaced. But it should immediately be noted that it is very difficult to do such work with your own hands - here it is important to accurately install the part, you must use welding. If the body element is installed incorrectly, the geometry of the body will be disrupted and the work will have to be redone.

The cost of the front side members of the VAZ-2109

The right front spar is very similar in design to the left one, but the parts are not interchangeable, they seem to be a mirror image of each other. Body parts for the “nine” are sold in almost every specialized auto store; you can buy a front spar for an average price of 1,800 to 2,200 rubles.

You can also purchase a PL repair insert; it can be useful if the entire body part does not change and needs to be repaired. The average cost of an insert on the right or left side is 800-1000 rubles, like the spars themselves, the repair inserts from the “nine” are identical and fit on models 2108, 21099, 2113-14-15. There are no side member reinforcements as such for the front part of the body on the VAZ-2108-09-099; rigidity is added to it by the lower radiator frame (“TV”), which is a connector and is welded in front between the left and right load-bearing parts of the body, and the front wing mudguards.

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Removing rotten parts

We begin repairs by removing rotten, rusty and deformed parts. I will describe the process using the example of a car, a VAZ 2109, which I was tasked with repairing. First, I’ll give you my problem areas in the car. The front floor of the car is completely rotten with all the jacks and reinforcements. And the jack could only be used with a sub-engine beam. The rear floor was also rotted. Corrosion also affected the car doors. In general, the bottom was almost absent. The wings were not in the best condition.

The front hood was noticeably rusty, all the floor connectors and the floor of the gas tank and spare tire were missing. The same fate befell the reflectors of almost all headlights. The front spar burst in the gearbox area. And above the muffler, in the floor of the trunk, there was a huge hole. The corners of the door were “eaten” by corrosion.

I describe in detail the condition of my car so that car enthusiasts can identify similar faults in theirs and draw the right conclusions. Once the necessary tools for car body repair are at hand, we begin installation.

The main reasons for the destruction of the front spar

As noted above, the submarine bends from impact and rusts over time. The following also have a destructive effect on this body element:

• constant engine vibrations, especially if the engine or gearbox mounts are loose;
• driving a car on bad roads;
• extreme driving.

Since the side members are practically the skeleton of the body, a large load falls on them. All vibrations and shocks are transmitted to these elements; as a result, the body parts cannot withstand, become deformed, and cracks appear on them.

The VAZ 2108 radiator frame assembly (top+bottom) with a spare part is usually purchased:

Price* – price for registered users

Strengthening and modernization

Strengthening or tuning the body of a VAZ 2109 according to the instructions should be carried out only if the owner is well versed in the design features of the car, has an appropriate understanding of the device, and knows the technical data on weight and other parameters. Otherwise, it is better to entrust the modernization work to professionals at the service station. True, the price of their services in these matters is too high, but you will be satisfied with the result.

So, tuning a VAZ 2109 car is, first of all, upgrading its body. The process always begins with this, and only after that the power unit and other components of the machine are brought to the desired state.

The need for reinforcement at “nine” and the quality of life indicator

It’s interesting that many owners of the “Nine” install modern amplification components more for the sake of beauty. This cannot in any way be a plus for reinforcement, since for the most part such elements can only provide decorative benefits.

On the contrary, if the goal of tuning is primarily to strengthen the body, TK*, spacers, rods and gussets can be selected accordingly. They will significantly strengthen the frame and increase its ability to withstand external influences.

TK* - tubular roll cage

Strengthening, as mentioned at the beginning of the article, is a mandatory procedure. By installing longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements into the body structure, you can achieve a significant increase in the rigidity of the body frame, and this is already very good. The integrity of the original design obtained at the factory will be maintained and at the same time the corresponding torsional rigidity parameters will increase. At the same time, the weight of the car will practically not increase.

No matter how rigid the body is, it will have weak, vulnerable areas. Even if, under the influence of external forces, these places receive only microscopic damage, over time this will inevitably develop into a big problem.

You can verify the weakness of the “nine” body using a simple example:

• Raise the car on a jack (you can do it on one or both sides at once);
• In 80-90% of cases, car doors jam in the openings, which indicates deformation of the body.

How to replace an oil pump

Before you begin removing the oil pump and replacing it, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, make sure you have easy access to the following tools:

• set of wrenches;
• socket heads;
• universal joints;
• extension.

We remove the old pump:

1. If you own a fuel-injected car, you must first remove the crankshaft position sensor from the engine. You won't have to do this with a carburetor engine.
2. After this, you should completely drain the engine oil that is in the engine.
3. When you have drained all the oil, you need to remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
4. Now remove the oil pan, unscrew the bolts that secure the oil pan, and remove it.
5. Remove the oil pump bolts using an extension.
6. Move the pump using a screwdriver - to do this, insert it between the bearing and the pump.
7. After all this, carefully remove the pump from the crankshaft.

Once you have removed the old oil pump, you can begin installing the new one. This must be done in the correct sequence:

1. Before installing the new pump, rotate the drive gear so that it is completely aligned with the flats on the crankshaft.
2. Now you need to thoroughly lubricate the working edge of the crankshaft front oil seal; use engine oil for this.
3. When you have completed all the previous operations, you can install the oil pump on the crankshaft. Carefully tuck the lip of the oil seal in, and then tighten the bolts that secure the oil pump.

After this, you need to carry out the final stage of installation - collect all the parts that you removed before (including covers and gaskets) and install them in the correct order.

The process of replacing front suspension daisies on a VAZ-2114

None In the figure below, at number 23, there are daisies that need to be replaced. Schematic design of the front suspension. Location of the daisy in the lever. Now that the location is clear, you can proceed directly to the process itself:

1. The first step is to dismantle the lower engine crankcase protection.
2. The next step is to clean the threads. In order for the bolts to unscrew normally, they must be sprayed with WD-40.
3. Using a 24mm socket, we dismantle the extension nut from the lever side. Unscrew the fastening nut of the extension to the lever. Removing the nut. If it doesn’t work, then it’s stuck. Need a lever and special treatment. liquid, such as WD-40
4. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the brace bracket. Unscrew the brace bracket.
5. We dismantle the element. We remove the extension with the bracket.
6. Using a chisel, knock the silent block out of its seat. There is an alternative option - burning. The process of burning chamomile This silent block is much easier to remove from its seat
7. We press the new part with a hammer. Simply put, we hammer the chamomile into the seat. We press new silent blocks
8. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

How to replace the front spar on a Nine

Replacing the front side members 2108-09 must be done on a slipway; in a regular car service without special equipment, it is very difficult to perform such work, and in some cases it is simply impossible. Before starting body repairs, it is necessary to partially disassemble the car, remove from the car:

• front optics and bumper;
• hood;
• radiator grille;
• expansion tank;
• radiator;
• front wing (on the side where the submarine changes);

If the car's hardware is sufficiently rusty that you have to additionally change (repair) other body elements, you may have to remove the gearbox and engine. The body repair itself is performed in the following order:

• the old spar is cut off (usually using a grinder or a gas cutter) so that the new part “falls” into place better, a beveled cut is made;
• the new submarine is cleaned of transportation soil;
• At the seat, rust, dust and dirt are removed from the metal; a grinder is used for this. A good result can be achieved by using a sandblasting machine; to remove traces of corrosion, a rust converter is needed;
• The new spar is butt welded, first tackling it in several places. Before final welding, the geometry of the body is checked; if the work is not done on a stand, the correct installation of the part is verified using control points:
• after welding work, the metal surface is cleaned again, degreased, the weld seam is treated with mastic, and primer is applied;
• After the primer has completely dried, the replaced body part is painted in the color of the body, and the car is assembled.

The cost of replacing the front side member of a VAZ-2108-09 in a car service center

Since replacing a submarine is not an easy job even for an average car service center, not all craftsmen undertake it, especially since not everyone is eager to begin restoring the body of a used Nine. Mostly, small auto repair shops carry out minor and medium body repairs, while large auto repair centers do not want to deal with domestic cars at all. Prices for body work from auto repair companies and private owners are most often approximate; often the final cost of the repairman is announced closer to the end of the repair. The fact is that “pitfalls” may unexpectedly appear, and as a result of their identification, the work is delayed and becomes more complex.

Some car service centers indicate two values ​​in the price list at once - the upper and lower limits; in large cities or the capital, they charge from 3,500 to 9,000 rubles for replacing the front side member; usually, work from private repairmen in garages costs less. Often, along with the submarine, it is necessary to change the wing splash guard, sills, and repair the bottom; some auto repair shops note in their prices that the cost of repairs in the price list is indicated without painting.

Design features of rotary oil pumps

As a rule, a rotary-type oil pump consists of a small number of parts, including:

1. suction and discharge cavities;
2. external and internal rotors;
3. drive shaft.

Oil pump operation

with rotors is based on the interaction of two rotors. In unregulated designs, the oil that is drawn in is transferred into the system by rotor blades. If the pressure becomes excessive, the pressure relief valve opens and excess oil is released.

What makes them adjustable is the presence of a movable stator. It has a special adjustment spring, by tightening or twisting it you can change the volume of the chamber with the rotors, due to which the overall pressure in the system also changes. Thanks to the stator, it is possible to achieve stable pressure in the lubrication system, regardless of how intensely the crankshaft rotates.

Advantages of variable oil pumps

Today, adjustable oil pumps are considered much more acceptable than unregulated ones, because they have a number of significant advantages, including:

• about a third less power taken from the engine;
• less oil wear due to reduced frequency and speed;
• the oil foams less.

That is, an adjustable oil pump allows for smoother oil circulation and a longer interval between oil changes, which makes it a more preferable equipment.

Features of the VAZ 2109 body

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“Nine” is a front-wheel drive passenger car with a hatchback body. The car is equipped with 5 doors. It has several modifications, released at different times and for different purposes - 21091, 21093, 21099.

The body of the “nine” is made in a load-bearing structure and is 1-volume. 5 people can easily fit inside the car, although the hatchback does not have the comfort of a sedan. It was with the aim of increasing the convenience and spaciousness of the interior that one of the modifications of the “nine” was invented - the VAZ 21099.

The body of the “nine” is distinguished by a wedge-shaped shape, which is already a plus. The fact is that this form can significantly improve the AED* characteristics and reduce the resistance of oncoming air flows when the vehicle is moving.

Significant benefits in reducing the impact of air flow come from the smoothed outer surfaces of the hood, the greater slope of the windshield and rear window, as well as the unusually smooth connection of the front bumper to the body frame.

This body layout, coupled with a more economical power unit and new tire shapes, made it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption.

In addition, this indicator is closely related to the reduction in body weight, which was achieved through the introduction of lightweight plastics and new composite materials. The plastic parts of the body and interior of the Nine, and there are a lot of them in the car, weigh about 80 kg.

Note. The reduction in weight of the VAZ 2109 is also due to the use of lightweight aluminum materials.

To carry out tuning on the “nine”, it will be useful to know how much the body of the VAZ 2109 weighs. This will make it possible to strengthen the frame by adding as much extra weight as needed. According to the table below, we see that the weight of the VAZ 2109 body in its bare state is 450 kg. Designers call this mass useful.

Despite the light weight, the car owner is given the opportunity to easily transport from 50 to 275 kg of various cargo in the trunk, depending on the number of passengers inside the cabin.

Thanks to front-wheel drive and a special body structure, the “nine” is distinguished by enviable stability against lateral skidding. Good handling is ensured, again, due to the front drive wheels and the coincidence of the direction of the traction force with the direction of movement of the wheels.

The handling of the “nine” is especially good in comparison with other domestic cars, on icy roads, slippery roads, and so on.

In addition, the front-wheel drive design of the car allows for better use of the length of the body compared to rear-wheel drive models. This also makes it possible to reduce the weight of the car, make the interior and driving position more comfortable.

Due to the absence of intermediate transmission links in the “nine”, it is possible to increase the useful volume of the vehicle without increasing the dimensions of the body. In the “nine” the floor tunnel is short; only parts of the brake and exhaust system are located here.

The rear of the Nine is also very compact. The 20-litre fuel tank is located under the rear seat, and the spare tire is located in a niche in the floor of the luggage compartment. This helped increase the free space in the trunk.

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099)

You can replace the outer CV joint (angular velocity joint, “grenade”) on a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099) without removing the wheel drive.

Necessary tools, accessories and spare parts

Soft metal drift

Key "30" (knob with head)

Key "17" (head or socket)

Pliers (preferably extendable)

Slotted screwdriver or circlip remover

New outer CV joint (they are the same for both wheel drives of the car)

New CV retaining ring

CV joint lubricant (CV joint-4 or equivalent) 40 g

New hub nut

If necessary, CV joint boot and clamps for it

Preparatory work

Place the car on a level surface and securely fix it (handbrake, wheel chocks)

Using a thin chisel, we bend the edges of the wheel hub nut (they are bent to fix the nut in the groove of the CV joint shank)

We loosen the tightening of the front wheel hub nut (where the replacement will be made) using a “30” wrench

We jack up and hang both front wheels of the car (this way we remove the clamping force of the anti-roll bar on the suspension and thereby make it easier to dismantle the necessary parts)

We clean the parts of the front suspension and wheel drive from dirt

The procedure for replacing the outer CV joint of the front wheel drive of a VAZ 2109 (2108, 21099)

— Unscrew the wheel hub nut

We use the key at “30”. Remove the nut and washer underneath.

Unscrew the wheel hub nut using a “30” wrench

— Disconnect the ball joint

It is attached with two 17mm socket bolts to the bottom of the steering knuckle. Unscrew and remove the bolts.

Disconnect the front suspension ball joint

— Disconnect the shank of the outer CV joint from the wheel hub

We move the front strut towards ourselves, and pull the shank out of the hole in the hub. At the same time, we try to prevent the inner CV joint from being pulled out of the gearbox (we try not to move the drive towards ourselves too much). At this stage, it may be difficult to remove the shank from the hub since there is a splined connection that “sours” over time. To facilitate dismantling, you can hit a couple of times with a hammer through a wooden spacer (block) at the end of the shank.

Remove the CV joint shank from the hole in the wheel hub by moving the front strut towards you

— Remove the CV joint boot

Both clamps from the CV joint need to be removed - large and small. We use a screwdriver and pliers to disconnect the clamp lock. After removing the clamps, move the boot up along the “stick” of the drive (so as not to interfere).

Remove the CV joint boot clamp using a screwdriver

— We remove the outer CV joint (“grenade”) from the drive shaft

We turn the CV joint so that its inside is visible. We knock it off the drive shaft using a soft metal drift. We strike the clip. At the same time, we try to hold the drive so that it does not jump out of the gearbox. The separator and the balls inside it cannot be hit. Usually a couple of blows are enough, since the CV joint is attached to a spring retaining ring, which is easily compressed.

We knock the CV joint off the drive shaft using a soft metal drift and a hammer

Use a screwdriver or puller to pry up and remove the retaining ring. There is no need to remove the thrust ring.

CV joint thrust and retaining rings 2108, 2109, 21099

— Installing a new CV joint

We put new lubricant 20 grams into it. We install a new retaining ring on the drive shaft. We place the CV joint straight and hammer it onto the shaft with a hammer through a drift. We install the boot in place by first putting the remaining 20 grams of lubricant into it. We install clamps. We tighten the clamp locks with pliers. Before tightening, squeeze the air out from under the boot by squeezing it a little.

Notes and additions

The reason for replacing the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2109 may be the appearance of a crunching sound from the suspension when driving at low speed and simultaneously turning left (right). This indicates that the CV joint boot has lost its seal (ruptured) and dirt is getting inside the grenade. As a temporary measure to eliminate the crunching noise, you can try to wash the cavity of the CV joint (“grenade”) with diesel fuel or gasoline, dry it and apply new lubricant.

The first stage is polishing the bottom with coarse pastes with mechanical additives. Pastes without abrasive substances are applied after washing and drying the car. All work is carried out using a polishing wheel, which processes each part separately.

Primers

They cover clean surfaces of the car according to the instructions. The primer provides adhesion to anti-corrosion compounds. Manufacturers offer different formulations:

1. Tectyl is available in three types. Classic creates an organic microfilm on steel; zinc provides an additional coating that neutralizes salts; Tectyl HT zinc is intended for vehicles operating in urban environments.
2. Movil is an economical composition that is in demand in auto repair shops.
3. Bitumen mastic based on polymers, rubber, mineral shale.
4. Dinitrol based on polymer rubber.

After restoration of body parts, sound insulation must be installed. The bottom can be coated with Prim, which simultaneously acts as an anti-corrosion agent.

Corrosion protection

To protect the body from rust, two methods of anti-corrosion treatment are used.

ML oils

The method, invented in Scandinavia, involves pouring special oils into the technical cavities of the body through factory drains. The compositions impregnate the welding seams, covering the internal surfaces with a film, isolating them from contact with air. The bottom is coated on the outside with similar oils.

The inhibitors included in ML oils allow them to be applied over rust. They slow down the spread of corrosion, but for maximum effect, it is advisable to wash the body of the “nine”.

The disadvantage of the ML method is its low mechanical strength. Oils wear off quickly in open areas, but remain for years in closed spaces.

Bitumen compounds

Open bottom panels and wheel arches are coated with protective bitumen. The method places high demands on the preparatory work. External elements must be thoroughly washed, otherwise the bitumen composition will quickly be washed away.

The advantage of such coatings is their high mechanical strength. They protect the VAZ 2109 body from external influences for a long time. Bitumen compounds can be used as additional sound insulation: a film applied in several layers reduces the level of vibration of the panels.

Bitumen coatings can be applied to traces of corrosion, but with some reservations. Surface rust is pre-impregnated with ML oils, after which solid compounds are applied. For deep damage, this method will not help control the development of corrosion, since bitumen products, unlike ML compounds, are opaque. Because of this, when inspecting a car, the technician assesses the level of rust damage and decides whether to apply bitumen compounds on top.

Replacing VAZ 2109 thresholds with your own hands - how to handle them, repairs, etc.

The VAZ 2109 is a relatively old car, and today most of these cars require attention to both components and assemblies, as well as to the body.

Most often, thresholds are subject to corrosion; without anti-corrosion protection, they quickly become unusable and lose their load-bearing capacity.

As a result, they have to be replaced with new elements, resorting to welding.

Why do thresholds wear out?

Thresholds are load-bearing elements that provide the body with additional rigidity. Due to the fact that these parts are located in the lower part of the body, they are constantly exposed to negative factors:

All this significantly reduces the service life of the thresholds. In addition, the mediocre quality of painting and anti-corrosion treatment of body elements from the factory leads to the fact that almost every owner of a “Nine” is faced with the need to replace the thresholds on their car.

Are you looking for VAZ body repair in Ulyanovsk (Simbirsk)?

Body repairs of VAZ vehicles of varying degrees of complexity from modern manufacturers are performed using modern equipment. All types of work are carried out in compliance with the recommendations determined by leading market companies. In the case when VAZ body repair requires restoration of the body geometry, the elimination of defects takes place on the basis of stocks. The use of slipways from leading companies allows us to perform body repairs of any makes and models of domestic and foreign cars, including VAZ. In cases where body parts are made of aluminum, argon welding is used during body repairs. In some cases, this technology allows you to save an expensive part from being replaced. In case of minor damage to the paintwork, VAZ body repair uses a special technology in which only the damaged area is repaired. In this case, VAZ body repair is effective for scratches, chips, and abrasions. Often such car body repairs are also accompanied by repairs and painting of bumpers and plastic parts.