DESIGN, REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE OF GEAR SHIFT BOX VAZ 2106

It is known that the engine has maximum power, and therefore maximum torque, in a certain speed range, but it is not distributed evenly over the entire tachometer scale. In order to “catch” all the power and transform it for various driving conditions, a box is needed. Its structure is quite complex.

All the power of the torque is transmitted to the drive wheels through the transmission, which for the VAZ 2107 consists of the following parts:

• clutch (its task is to connect the engine input shaft to the gearbox, or to disconnect it;
• the gearbox itself (gearbox), its task is to distribute torque from the engine to the wheels at the driver’s request;
• a system of drive shafts that finally transmit rotation to the wheel drive.

Experienced auto mechanics know that of two cars, the faster one can be the one with the weaker engine, if its gearbox ratios are selected correctly.

Gearbox VAZ 2106: GENERAL INFORMATION

The gearbox in a car is designed to change the value of torque transmitted to the wheels of the car from the crankshaft of the power unit (in our case through the driveshaft). This is necessary to ensure optimal load on the power unit when the machine moves in various modes. VAZ 2106 cars, depending on the modification and year of manufacture, were equipped with four- and five-speed manual gearboxes. The gear shift in such devices is carried out manually by the driver using a specially designed lever.

DEVICE

The first “sixes” rolled off the assembly line with a four-speed gearbox. They had four forward speeds and one reverse. Since 1987, the VAZ 2106 began to be equipped with five-speed gearboxes, with an added fifth forward speed. It made it possible to almost completely “unload” the car’s engine during long high-speed trips. The five-speed gearbox was designed on the basis of a four-speed one. Both of these boxes are interchangeable, and their designs are largely similar.

The six-speed four-speed gearbox consists of:

• crankcase with covers;
• primary, intermediate and secondary shafts;
• stage switching devices.

The five-speed gearboxes of the VAZ 2106 have almost the same design as the four-speed ones

The gearbox input shaft is mounted on two bearing supports. One of them (front) is mounted in a socket at the end of the crankshaft. The rear bearing is located in the wall of the gearbox housing. Both bearings have a ball design.

The rotation of the secondary shaft is ensured by three bearings. The front one has a needle design. It is pressed into a bore on the first shaft. The middle and rear bearing supports are installed in a special housing in the crankcase and the mounting hole in the rear cover, respectively. They have a ball design.

The gears of the first three stages are located on the secondary shaft. All of them are engaged with gears on the intermediate shaft. The front part of the shaft is equipped with special splines used for fastening the synchronizer clutch for the third and fourth speeds. The reverse gears and speedometer drive are also installed here. The intermediate shaft is also mounted on two bearings: front (ball) and rear (roller).

Stage synchronizers have the same design, consisting of a hub, coupling, springs and locking rings. The gears are switched by means of a mechanical drive, which consists of rods with forks that engage with movable (sliding) clutches.

The shift lever has a two-part design. Its upper and lower parts are connected using a collapsible damping device. This is necessary in order to simplify the dismantling of the box.

The five-speed gearbox is similar, with the exception of some changes in the rear cover and the design of the intermediate shaft.

MAIN TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS of the VAZ 2106 gearbox

The main parameter that determines the operation of the gearbox is the gear ratio. This number is considered to be the ratio of the number of teeth on the driven gear to the number of teeth on the drive gear. The table below shows the gearbox ratios of various modifications of the VAZ 2106.

TABLE: VAZ 2106 Gearbox Ratios

WHAT TRANSMISSION TO PUT?

Some owners of “sixes” with four-speed gearboxes are trying to improve their cars by installing five-speed gearboxes on them. This solution allows you to make long trips without putting much stress on the engine and with significant fuel savings. As can be seen from the table above, the fifth gear ratio of the standard VAZ 21065 gearbox is only 0.82. This means that the engine practically does not “strain” when driving in fifth speed. In addition, if you move no more than 110 km/h, then a working power unit in such a situation will consume no more than 6–7 liters of fuel.

GEARBOX FROM ANOTHER VAZ MODEL

Today on sale you can find new gearboxes from the VAZ 2107 (catalog number 2107–1700010) and VAZ 21074 (catalog number 21074–1700005). They have characteristics similar to those of the VAZ 21065. Such gearboxes can be installed on any “six” without any problems.

GEARBOX WITH A FOREIGN CAR

Among all the foreign cars, there is only one, the gearbox with which can be installed on a VAZ 2106 without modifications. This is the “big brother” of the classic VAZ - the Fiat Polonaise, which even looks like our “six”. This car was produced not in Italy, but in Poland.

“Polonaise” even looks similar to our “six”

Also for the VAZ 2106 the box from Polonaise-Caro is suitable. This is a high-speed version of the regular Polonaise. Below in the table you will find the gearbox ratios of these cars.

TABLE: TRANSMISSION NUMBERS FOR FIAT POLONEZ AND POLONASE-CARO CARs

The only thing that will need to be altered when installing a gearbox from these cars is to widen the hole for the gear shift lever. In Fiats it is larger in diameter and has a square rather than a round cross-section.

The Polonaise gearbox is installed on a VAZ 2106 with virtually no modifications

Technical characteristics of manual transmission

In the operating instructions, the technical characteristics of the box are indicated together with the characteristics of the transmission. This is given in tabular form:

MAIN FAULTS in the VAZ 2106 gearbox

Being a mechanical device, especially one subject to constant loads, the gearbox cannot help but break down. And even if it is serviced in accordance with the requirements of the car manufacturer, the time will still come when it becomes capricious.

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 gearbox include:

• oil leakage;
• noise (crunching, crackling, squealing) when turning on the speed;
• a sound uncharacteristic of gearbox operation that changes when the clutch is depressed;
• complicated (tight) gear shifting;
• lack of fixation of the gear shift lever;
• spontaneous switching off (knocking out) of gears.

Let us consider these malfunctions in terms of the reasons for their occurrence.

OIL LEAKING

Leakage of lubricant in the gearbox can be determined by marks on the ground or by the engine crankcase protection. You cannot delay fixing this problem, because an insufficient oil level will certainly lead to a number of other malfunctions. The causes of leakage may be:

• damage to shaft seals;
• wear of the shafts themselves;
• high pressure in the gearbox due to a clogged breather;
• loosening the crankcase cover bolts;
• violation of the integrity of the seals;
• loosening the oil drain plug.

NOISE WHEN SWITCHING INTO SPEED

Extraneous noise that occurs when shifting gears may indicate the following malfunctions:

• incomplete disengagement of the clutch (crunching);
• insufficient oil volume in the box (hum, squeal);
• wear of gears or synchronizer parts (crunching);
• deformation of locking rings (crunching);
• bearing wear (hum).

SOUND UNCHARACTERISTIC FOR TRANSMISSION OPERATION

The appearance of a sound that is uncharacteristic of the normal operation of the gearbox and disappears when the clutch is depressed may be due to:

• low level of lubricant in the box;
• damage to gears;
• bearing failure.

COMPLEX GEAR SHIFT

Problems with gear shifting that are not accompanied by extraneous noise may indicate such malfunctions as:

• deformation or damage to the gear shift forks;
• difficult movement of fork rods;
• complicated movement of the movable coupling of the corresponding transmission;
• jamming in the hinge joint of the shift lever.

NO LEVER LOCKING

If the gear shift lever returns to its previous position after switching on the speed, the release spring is most likely to blame. It can either stretch or break. It is also possible for one of its ends to slip from the attachment point.

TURNING OFF (KNOTTING OUT) SPEEDS

If the gears are switched off uncontrolled, the following malfunctions may occur:

• the synchronizer spring is damaged;
• the synchronizer ring is worn out;
• blocking rings are deformed;
• rod sockets are damaged.

TABLE: VAZ 2106 GEARBOX MALFUNCTIONS AND METHODS FOR THEIR ELIMINATION

Five-speed manual transmission

The seventh model Zhiguli has a five-speed gearbox with five forward speeds and one reverse.

It is made of duralumin and has similar covers on the front and back. The clutch cover is attached to the front of the box using studs. A steel cover is installed on the bottom of the device. There are sealing gaskets between the box body and each lid.

The front cover is connected to the clutch housing using a press fit. There is a hole in it for the input shaft to exit and install the cuff.

Inside the box, shafts with gears, synchronizers and gear shifting devices are installed in a certain order. There is an oil filler hole on the right, and a drain hole with a magnetic plug on the bottom.

At the bottom left of the cover comes the speedometer cable, which is driven by the secondary shaft using a gear.

The gear shift lever is on top. Consists of a gear selection device, rods and a locking mechanism. A handle is attached to the lever on top. This entire structure is attached to the lid using three studs.

Type of gearbox:

Exploded parts:

Moving parts of the gearbox:

REPAIR OF GEARBOX VAZ 2106

The process of repairing a “six” gearbox comes down to replacing broken or worn elements. Considering that most of even the smallest parts of the box can be dismantled without problems, there is no point in restoring them. It is much easier to buy a new spare part and install it in place of the faulty one.

But in any case that requires repair of the gearbox, it will need to be removed from the car and disassembled. This may take a whole day, or maybe more than one. Be sure to take this into account if you decide to repair the gearbox yourself.

HOW TO REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION

To dismantle the gearbox, you will need a lift, overpass or inspection hole. It is also advisable to have an assistant present. As for the tools, you will definitely need:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• pliers;
• keys for 13 (2 pcs);
• key to 10;
• key to 19;
• hex wrench 12;
• slotted screwdriver;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• mounting blade;
• support for supporting the gearbox during dismantling (special tripod, strong log, etc.);
• container for collecting oil from the gearbox.

Dismantling procedure:

1. We lift the car on a lift, or place it on an overpass or inspection hole.
2. We climb under the car. Place a clean container under the gearbox drain plug.
3. Use a 12mm hex to unscrew the drain plug. We wait for the grease to drain.
4. We find the handbrake cable equalizer and remove the spring from it using pliers.

   
   The spring can be removed using pliers

5. Loosen the cable by unscrewing the two nuts with a 13mm wrench.

   
   To remove the equalizer, you need to unscrew two nuts

6. We remove the equalizer. We move the cable to the side.
7. We apply marks on the cardan shaft and the flange of the main gear at the point of their connection using a hammer and chisel. This is necessary so that when installing the cardan, its centering is not disturbed. It will need to be installed using these marks. The marks are necessary in order to place the cardan as it was before dismantling
8. We unscrew the nuts connecting the flanges with a 13mm wrench and disconnect them. The nuts are unscrewed with a 13mm wrench
9. We bend the fixing tendrils of the sealing clip with a thin slotted screwdriver and move it away from the elastic coupling.

   
   The clip mustaches need to be bent with a screwdriver

10. We dismantle the safety bracket by unscrewing the nuts securing it to the body.

    
    To remove the bracket, you need to unscrew the nuts with a 13mm wrench

11. We dismantle the cross member of the intermediate support by unscrewing the nuts with a 13mm wrench.

    
    The support nuts are unscrewed with a 13mm wrench

12. We move the front part of the cardan, removing it from the splines of the elastic coupling.

    
    To remove the shaft from the coupling, it must be moved back

13. We dismantle the driveshaft.
14. Let's go to the salon. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the protective cover from the gearshift lever and disconnect the rings along the edge of the hole in the carpet. The fixing rings are removed using a screwdriver
15. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the cover.

    
    To remove the cover, you need to unscrew 4 screws

16. Remove the cover.
17. We disconnect the locking sleeve with a thin slotted screwdriver, lightly pressing the shift lever. The bushing is detached using a screwdriver
18. We dismantle the lever.
19. Let's move on to the engine compartment. We bend the eye washer, leveling it with a hammer and a mounting spatula.
20. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the box.

    
    Before unscrewing the bolt, you need to straighten its eye washer

21. Unscrew the two starter fixing bolts using a 13mm wrench.
22. Using the same wrench, unscrew the lower starter fixing bolt.

    
    To disconnect the starter, you need to unscrew 3 bolts with a 13mm wrench

23. We get down under the car. Unscrew the four bolts holding the clutch starter cover in place. To disconnect the cover you need to unscrew 4 bolts
24. Using pliers, unscrew the nut securing the speedometer cable.
25. We put a stop to support the box. We ask an assistant to monitor the position of the gearbox. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew all the crankcase mounting bolts (3 pcs). When unscrewing the remaining bolts securing the gearbox, it must be secured
26. Unscrew the two nuts of the gearbox cross member.

    
    To remove the cross member you need to unscrew two nuts

27. Moving the box back, remove it from the car.

DISASSEMBLY OF GEARBOX VAZ 2106

Before disassembling the gearbox, it is recommended to clean it from dirt, dust, and oil leaks. In addition, make sure you have the following tools on hand:

• two thin slotted screwdrivers;
• impact screwdriver;
• key to 13;
• key to 10;
• key to 22;
• puller for retaining rings;
• vice with workbench.

To disassemble the gearbox, you must:

1. Using two screwdrivers, push the spacer pieces to the sides and then remove it. To remove the bushing, you need to move its sectors apart
2. Remove the flexible coupling along with the flange. To remove the coupling you need to unscrew the nuts with a 13mm wrench
3. Remove the gearbox support by unscrewing the nuts securing it using a size 13 wrench.

   
   To disconnect the support, you need to unscrew two nuts with a 13mm wrench

4. Unscrew the nut on the speedometer drive mechanism using a 10mm wrench.

   
   To remove the drive, you need to unscrew the nut with a 10mm wrench.

   Read also:  Installing electric power steering on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands
5. Remove the drive.
6. Unscrew the reverse light switch using a 22mm wrench. Remove it. The switch is unscrewed with a 22 key
7. Using a 13 key, unscrew the gear shift lever stopper.

   
   The locking bolt is unscrewed with a 13 mm wrench

8. Remove the bracket by first unscrewing the nuts with a 13mm wrench. The bracket is secured with two bolts
9. Using the same wrench, unscrew the nuts on the back cover. Disconnect the cover and remove the gasket.

   
   A sealing gasket is installed between the crankcase and the cover

10. Remove the rear bearing.

    
    The bearing can be easily removed from the shaft

11. Remove the speedometer gear.

    
    The gear is fixed with a small steel ball

12. Remove the fork and reverse gear idler.

    
    The fork is secured with a nut 10

13. Disconnect the rear speed separating sleeve.
14. Remove the retaining ring and gear.

    
    The gear is secured with a retaining ring

15. Using a puller, remove the retaining ring on the secondary shaft and remove the driven gear.

    
    To remove the gear, you must remove the retaining ring.

16. Remove the four bearing retaining plate screws. If the screws have become rusty, you may need an impact screwdriver to do this. Dismantle the plate, remove the axle. It is better to unscrew the screws with an impact screwdriver
17. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts on the cover (10 pcs). Remove it, being careful not to tear the sealing gasket.

    
    The cover is secured with 10 bolts

18. Disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox by unscrewing the nuts using keys 13 and 17.

    
    To disconnect the clutch housing you will need keys 13 and 17

19. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the fastener cover bolts. Remove the cover. The cover is secured with two bolts
20. Remove the reverse gear shift rod.

    
    The rod is simply removed from the crankcase

21. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt holding the third and fourth speed forks.

    
    The bolt is unscrewed with a 10 mm wrench

22. Remove the rod and its locking blocks. Along with the rod, the locking blocks must also be removed.
23. Remove the first and second speed rods from the gearbox.

    
    To remove the rod, you need to pull it towards you.

24. Unscrew the bolt securing the third and fourth stage forks.
25. Pressing the clutches and using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing on the intermediate shaft.

    
    To unscrew the bolt, you need to engage two gears at once by pressing the clutches

26. Use two thin screwdrivers to remove the bearing.

    
    To remove the bearing, you need to pry it off with screwdrivers.

27. Disconnect the rear bearing.

    
    To remove the rear bearing, you need to push it from the inside.

28. Remove the intermediate shaft.

    
    To remove the shaft, you need to lift it from the back

29. Remove the gear shift forks.

    
    Forks are mounted on the secondary shaft

30. Remove the input shaft with bearing.

    
    The input shaft is removed along with the bearing

31. Remove the needle bearing.

    
    Bearing mounted on secondary shaft

32. Using a screwdriver, remove the locking key at the rear of the secondary shaft.

    
    The bearing is secured with a key

33. Remove the rear bearing.

    
    The bearing is removed from the socket using thin screwdrivers

34. Pull out the secondary shaft.
35. Clamp it in a vice and disconnect the synchronizer clutch that engages third and fourth gears. Before removing the coupling, the shaft must be installed vertically, clamped in a vice
36. Remove the retaining ring using a puller.
37. Remove the synchronizer hub.

    
    To dismantle the hub, you need to remove the retaining ring.

38. Remove the next retaining ring.
39. Disconnect the third gear.

    
    The gear is secured using a locking ring.

40. Place the first speed gear in an open vice and knock the secondary shaft out of it with a hammer.

    
    The gear is knocked off the shaft using a hammer and a soft metal spacer.

41. After this, remove the second speed gear, clutch, hub, and first speed bushing.
42. The synchronizer mechanisms of the first, second and fourth stages can be disassembled in the same way.
43. Release and remove the retaining ring on the input shaft.

    
    The bearing is secured with a retaining ring

44. Place the bearing in a vice and knock the shaft out of it.
45. Remove the gear shift lever by disconnecting the return spring and unscrewing the fastening nuts.

    
    The lever is held by a return spring

If faulty gears, synchronizers and forks are discovered during the disassembly of the gearbox, they should be replaced immediately. Parts that have visible signs of wear or damage should be considered defective.

VIDEO: DISASSEMBLING a VAZ 2106 gearbox

REPLACING BEARINGS

If, when disassembling the gearbox, it is discovered that any of the shaft bearings have play or visible damage, it will need to be replaced. All bearings in the VAZ 2106 gearbox have a non-separable design, so there can be no talk of any repair or restoration here.

In the gearbox, the rear bearing supports of the primary and secondary shafts are subject to the greatest load. They are the ones that fail more often than others.

REPLACING THE INPUT SHAFT BEARING

If the gearbox has already been disassembled and the input shaft and bearing assembly has been removed, simply knock it off the shaft with a hammer. Pack the new bearing in the same way. Usually, there are no problems with this.

There is another option for replacing the bearing without completely disassembling the box. It is suitable when you are absolutely sure that the rear shaft bearing is faulty. Let's look at it in more detail.

Work order:

1. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle.
2. Follow steps 1–18 of the previous instructions.
3. Remove the outer and inner retaining rings. The bearing is secured by inner and outer retaining rings
4. Pull the shaft towards you, sliding it out of the crankcase.
5. Insert the slot of a large screwdriver into the groove of the bearing and fix it as firmly as possible in this position.

   
   The bearing must be fixed by inserting a screwdriver into its groove.

6. Holding the outer race with a screwdriver, apply gentle blows to the shaft until the bearing comes off it.
7. Place the new bearing onto the shaft.
8. Move it to the seat.
9. Using a hammer, press the bearing into place, striking its inner race lightly.

   
   To install a new bearing, you need to hammer it with a hammer, applying gentle blows to the inner race

10. Install retaining rings.

HOW TO CHOOSE A PRIMARY SHAFT BEARING

In order not to make a mistake in choosing a bearing, it is important to know its parameters. We need an open radial ball bearing of the sixth accuracy class. Domestic enterprises produce such parts under catalog numbers 6–50706АУ and 6–180502К1УС9. All products of this type must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 520–211.

TABLE: MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF BEARINGS 6–50706АУ AND 6–180502К1УС9

REPLACING THE REAR OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING

The secondary shaft bearing can be removed and installed only with the gearbox disassembled. To do this, it is necessary to perform the work provided for in paragraphs 1–33 of the instructions for disassembling the gearbox. After dismantling the bearing, a new one is installed in its place, after which the gearbox is assembled. No special tools are required to remove or install it, nor is physical strength required.

SELECTION OF SECONDARY SHAFT BEARING

As in the previous case, when choosing the rear bearing of the secondary shaft, it is important not to make a mistake with the markings and parameters. In Russia, such parts are produced under article number 6–205 KU. It is also a radial type ball bearing. They are manufactured according to the requirements of GOST 8338–75.

TABLE: MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF BEARING 6–205 KU

REPLACING PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SHAFT SEALS

Oil seals (cuffs) in the gearbox are used to prevent lubricant leakage. If oil leaks from under the shaft, in most cases the oil seal is to blame. And it needs to be replaced. To replace the seals on the primary and secondary shafts, you will need to remove the gearbox. The tools you will need are a hammer, a drift, pliers and a cylindrical mandrel with a diameter equal to the diameter of the metal body of the cuff.

The shaft seal is pressed into the seat of the front cover of the gearbox housing. When it is disconnected from the crankcase, you must:

1. Place the end of the drift against the metal seal housing on the outside of the cover.
2. Apply several blows with a hammer to the drift, moving it around the circumference of the oil seal housing.
   The old oil seal is removed by knocking out
3. From the back of the cover, grab the cuff with pliers and remove it from its seat.
   On the back side of the cover, the oil seal is picked up with pliers
4. Install a new cuff, lubricating it with grease.
5. Using a mandrel and a hammer, press it into the lid seat.

To replace the secondary shaft oil seal, you will need pliers with thin ends, a hammer and a mandrel that matches the size of the seal.

Complete disassembly of the gearbox is not necessary here. It is enough to remove the elastic coupling and tear off the flange connecting it to the cardan from the shaft splines.

This is followed by:

1. Use a screwdriver to pry the cuff from the metal body.
2. Remove the cuff.

   
   The cuff can be easily removed with a screwdriver

3. Lubricate the new oil seal with grease.
4. Install the cuff into the seat.
5. Press in the cuff using a hammer and a mandrel. The oil seal is pressed in using a mandrel and a hammer

SELECTION OF PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SHAFT SEALS

To select the correct seals, it is advisable to know their catalog numbers and sizes. All of them are presented in the table.

TABLE: CATALOG NUMBERS AND SEAL SIZES

Gearbox device

The design of the RZM is typical of the “classic” VAZ. The main components of the gearbox are the planetary gear and the center differential.

The VAZ 2103 gearbox consists of:

1. Bevel drive gear.
2. Planetary driven gear.
3. Satellites.
4. Semi-axial gears.
5. Satellite axes.
6. Differential boxes.
7. Mounting bolts for box bearing caps.
8. Differential box bearing caps.
9. Bearing adjusting nut.
10. Gearbox housing.

Planetary pair

The driving and driven gears, called the planetary pair, form the main gear of the rare earth metal. The axes of these gears are offset from each other and cross without intersecting. Thanks to the use of specially shaped teeth, an optimal engagement spot is obtained. The design of the gears allows several teeth to engage simultaneously . At the same time, more torque is transmitted to the axle shaft, reducing the load on each tooth and increasing the durability of the mechanism.

Bearings

The drive gear is held by two roller bearings of type 6–7705U and 6–7807U. To accurately adjust the relative position of the gears of the main pair, an adjusting washer is placed between the inner bearing and the end of the gear. The thickness of such a ring can vary from 2.55 to 3.35 mm with the possibility of fixation every 0.05 mm. Thanks to the 17 permissible washer sizes, you can quite accurately adjust the position of the gears and ensure their correct engagement.

The rotation of the driven gear is ensured by two bearings of type 6–7707U. To prevent axial displacement of the gears, preload is created in the bearings using tension nuts and spacer plates.

Flange and differential

A flange fixed to the gearbox shank provides connection between the main gear and the cardan shaft. The center bevel differential consists of two satellites, two gears, a box and a satellite axis . The differential allows the rear wheels to rotate at different angular speeds.

OIL FOR GEARBOX VAZ 2106

The coordinated operation of the gearbox elements depends on the quality of the lubricant that washes them, as well as on its volume. The oil in the VAZ 2106 gearbox must be changed every 50 thousand kilometers. At least, these are the requirements of the manufacturer. But you need to check the lubricant level at least once a quarter.

WHAT OIL TO PUT INTO THE VAZ 2106 GEARBOX

In accordance with the requirements of the plant, only gear oil from groups GL-4 or GL-5 according to the API classification must be filled into the VAZ 2106 gearbox. As for the viscosity class, the following SAE classes are suitable:

• 80W-85;
• 80W-90;
• 85W-90.

The required oil volume for a four-speed gearbox is 1.35 liters, for a five-speed gearbox - 1.6 liters.

CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL IN THE TRANSMISSION

To find out what level of lubrication is in the box, the car must be driven onto a horizontal overpass or inspection hole. The engine must be cold. The oil level in the gearbox is determined by unscrewing the oil filler plug. It is unscrewed using a 17 key. If oil pours out of the hole, everything is in order with the level. Otherwise, it needs to be topped up. But there is one nuance here. You can only add oil of the class and type that is already in the box. If you do not know what kind of lubricant is in the gearbox, it must be drained completely, and only then a new one must be filled in.

DRAINING OIL FROM GEARBOX VAZ 2106

To drain the lubricant from the “six” gearbox, the machine must be installed on an overpass or pit. The engine must be hot. This way the oil will drain faster and in full.

The oil drain plug is located in the lower crankcase cover. It is unscrewed with a 17 key. Before unscrewing it, you need to place a container under the hole to collect the oil. When the lubricant drains, the plug is screwed back on.

HOW AND WHAT TO FILL OIL IN THE VAZ 2106 Gearbox

To fill the six gearbox with oil, you will need a special syringe or a thin hose (must fit into the oil filler hole) with a funnel. In the first case, lubricant is drawn from a container into a syringe, and then squeezed out of it into the filling hole. The process continues until the lubricant flows out of it. After this, the oil filler hole is screwed in.

When using a hose and funnel, you need to insert one end into the hole and raise the other end at least half a meter above it. The lubricant is poured into a funnel inserted into the other end of the hose. When oil begins to flow out of the box, stop pouring, remove the hose and tighten the plug.