DESIGN, REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE OF GEAR SHIFT BOX VAZ 2106

The Soviet Union is not just a state, but an entire era that lasted more than 70 years. The state sought to become one of the leaders on the world stage, so it was extremely important that the automotive industry be no worse than in the countries of the Western world. One of the brightest representatives of this race in the automotive industry was the legendary VAZ 2106. Several generations of our citizens have grown up who consider the six to be the best domestic car. And this is not without common sense, because the engineers of the automobile plant in Togliatti created a simple and therefore reliable car.

The gearbox of the VAZ 2106 car was also distinguished by a high degree of reliability and quality. However, without high-quality gear oil, the operation of the gearbox would not be long. The six gearbox is the main element of the transmission, with the help of which torque is transmitted from the power unit through the clutch to the drive of the drive wheels, regulating the speed of their rotation.

Gearbox VAZ 2106 and their design

This car was equipped with two types of gearboxes, one of them was a manual 4-speed transmission. The second is an improved version of the previous one, designed for 5 speeds, also of a mechanical type. At the same time, the five-speed gearbox, due to its modernization, was more expensive and more demanding to maintain. In addition, both of these gearboxes (5-speed and 4-speed) can be interchangeable.

The VAZ 2106 gear shift diagram is shown in the photo.

The device of any of them is a simple structure consisting of several shafts (primary, secondary, intermediate), a crankcase and a gear shift mechanism with synchronizers. On the input shaft there is a firmly seated gear, which is in constant mesh with all other gears. The shaft rotates due to two bearings located at the front and rear; the front one is also located in the crankshaft socket at the end. The rear one is located inside the crankcase and is sealed with an oil seal. The presence of the latter is explained by the fact that there is transmission oil in the crankcase.

The secondary shaft rotates due to three bearings. The front needle bearing is firmly seated in the input shaft socket, the ball bearing in the center is located in the crankcase seat, and the rear bearing is pressed into the socket on the rear wall. It also has a seal element that prevents possible oil leakage from the gearbox housing.

The intermediate shaft is a shaft with a gear block that rotates on two bearings. There is a ball bearing at the front and a cylindrical roller bearing at the rear. On the side there is a gear with reverse motion. As for synchronizers, they are structurally the same and consist of a hub, springs and couplings, equipped with locking rings.

Largely thanks to the simple, reliable and high-quality gearbox, the VAZ 2106 can boast of good dynamics and speed characteristics. All gears, with the exception of those at reverse speed, have an oblique tooth and are in constant mesh. Such a design, with its small size, allows more torque to be transmitted to the shafts, especially since the gear ratios of the VAZ 2106 gearbox are selected correctly. In reverse, gears with straight teeth are installed, so the car cannot gain high speed when the reverse gear is engaged, since such gears cannot transmit large torque.


VAZ 2106 gearbox device

Speed ​​shifting occurs as a result of the operation of clutches with synchronizers. The shift lever itself and the entire mechanism are forks with rods. After switching, the speed is fixed by balls with springs that hold the rod. The engineers also provided protection against the possibility of turning on two speeds at once, using special blockers or, in common parlance, “crackers” for this. In order to change the oil, the gearbox has special holes with plugs with threads and rubber seals.

Please note: the performance characteristics of metal parts are selected taking into account the use of high-quality gear oil.

Why change the gearbox?

There are quite a few reasons to replace the transmission on a car, but usually they are a significant argument when repairing the car’s power plant. First of all, the gearbox is replaced in the event of serious malfunctions that are associated with widespread disruption of its performance.

Another reason to replace a transmission is to improve its performance. All Zhiguli fans know that the VAZ 2106 was produced in several modifications, which were equipped with 4 and 5-speed gearboxes. Those drivers who got a “six” with a 4-speed gearbox have already clearly noticed its significant shortcomings when driving on the highway, so they change this element to a more advanced analogue - a transmission with 5 speeds.

One way or another, the procedure for replacing a gearbox is performed the same way, regardless of the reason for the replacement. Below you will find detailed instructions for replacing the gearbox.

Main faults on the VAZ 2106 gearbox and how to fix them

Malfunctions of the “six” gearbox have more than one cause. Accordingly, the methods for eliminating them will vary.

Cause of malfunctionRemedy
Presence of noise in the gearbox (may disappear if you depress the clutch pedal)
Lack of oil in the crankcaseCheck the level and add oil. Check for oil leaks, clean or replace the breather.
Worn bearings or gearsReplacement of damaged or worn elements
There is no noise, but the speeds are difficult to switch on
The shift lever is damaged, the spherical washer is worn out, the gearbox lever travel limiting screw is worn out, the lever is bent.Replacement of damaged parts
The lever joint jamsReplace the worn element, lubricate the joint with the recommended lubricant
Rusks and dirt get stuck in the fork rod sockets.Replacing parts
Difficult movement of the coupling on the hubCleaning splines, removing burrs
Fork deformationsReplace with new ones
Clutch won't disengageTroubleshoot clutch problems
Between third and fourth gear there is no way to lock the gear lever in neutral
Breakage of the release springReplace the spring or replace it if it has come off
Spontaneous gear shutdown
Loss of elasticity of clamps, wear of balls or rod seatsReplacing parts
Worn synchronizer ringsReplacement
Clutch teeth or synchronizer ring are worn outReplace damaged parts
The synchronizer spring has failedInstall a new spring
There is a noise, crackling or squealing sound when shifting gears
Incomplete clutch disengagementTroubleshoot clutch problems
Insufficient oil level in the crankcaseCheck for oil leaks, add oil, clean or replace the breather
Gear teeth wornReplace parts
The synchronizer ring of a particular gear is worn outReplace worn ring
Presence of shaft playTighten bearing fastenings, replace worn ones
Oil leak
Worn cuffsReplacement of worn elements. Cleaning or replacing the breather
Wear of shafts and nicks in places where cuffs are installedCleaning with fine grain sandpaper. Replacing cuffs. In case of severe wear, replace parts.
Breather clogged (increased oil pressure)Cleaning or replacing the breather
Weak crankcase cover, worn gaskets.Tightening fasteners or replacing gaskets.
Oil drain or fill plugs that are not fully tightenedTightening traffic jams

It is worth considering that some of the faults are related to other components and assemblies of the car.

Learn about repairs and maintenance

Our experts answer the most frequently asked service questions.

Why is timely oil change necessary?

How often should you change your engine oil? The basic rule that car owners should follow is to change the oil every 10,000 km, or once a season (spring and autumn).

What improvements will occur as a result of gearbox tuning?

The factory gearbox has a number of disadvantages, for example: “long” gears, loss of torque when shifting. Gearbox tuning will help you customize your car to suit your wishes.

Is it worth replacing the gearbox with a repaired one?

Of course it is, with one important note. The gearbox must be repaired in a “trusted” place and have a warranty.

How to replace a gearbox on a VAZ 2106

Before proceeding with dismantling the gearbox and further disassembly, you need to make sure that the cause of the malfunction is in the gearbox itself and is not related to other elements. For example, the following options are possible.

  1. The oil in the box is below the minimum level or is completely absent. As a rule, in such a situation, the gears will be engaged with a strong crunch and great difficulty.
  2. The fastenings of the box have become loose and it is hanging loose. Basically, a weakened gearbox is noticeable on the move when driving over bumps.
  3. Clutch malfunctions. The clutch drive has failed; in this case, if you press the clutch pedal all the way, the gears will also be engaged with difficulty and with a strong crunch.

If you are absolutely sure that the cause of the malfunction lies directly in the gearbox, then you can proceed to the process of removing it.

Dismantling the gearbox

The car must be placed above the inspection hole (unless, of course, it is possible to use a lift). Wheel chocks must be placed under the rear wheels and the parking brake lever must be lowered. The gear shift lever must be removed.

Removing the lever is not enough, since there are still three bushings left on the rocker (the main gear shift lever) that need to be unscrewed.

To do this, use two screwdrivers to carefully separate the petals of the upper bushing. After this it must be removed. Then, with a little effort, you can remove bushings A and B from the lever.

Unscrew the two screws securing the cover to the floor and remove it. Using a screwdriver, loosen the two screws holding the handbrake lever cover and remove it. Remove the screws under the front seats that secure the front floor mats to the floor.

Move the front seats all the way back and bend the edges of the floor mats.

Unscrew the nuts on the front seats that secure the slides to the brackets.

Unscrew the four screws securing the trim to the threshold and remove it (the trims are removed from both sides).

Lift the floor mat and push it forward as far as possible, with the mat ring (A) threaded through the drawstring (B).

Unscrew the screws that secure the plastic cover of the rocker and remove it.

Remove the hose that supplies warm air to the air filter housing. After disconnecting the warm air supply hose, you need to, armed with a wrench, unscrew all the bolts that secure the starter and move it forward. Disconnect the crankcase drain plug and drain the oil into any suitable container.

Remove the exhaust system, starting with the exhaust manifold. You need to disconnect the propeller shaft coupling from the gearbox flange (after removing the muffler). Disconnect the wire block (see photo) from the reverse signal switch (located directly on the gearbox on its right side).

Using a handy tool (pliers or just your hands), loosen the speedometer nut and disconnect the end of the cable from the gearbox.

Remove the clutch slave cylinder (there is no need to remove it completely, just remove it from the bracket; it is not necessary to remove the cylinder hose). Remove the four bolts that secure the clutch housing cover.

Using any suitable wooden block, you need to support the bracket, placing one side of the block on the crossbar and the other on the ground.

Unscrew the nuts that secure the cross member to the body. Remove the block and bring together the rear part of the gearbox. Using the same block, you need to support the front part of the engine, always in the place indicated in the photo.

Remove the top bolts that secure the clutch housing to the engine. An assistant must support the rear of the gearbox, and at this time you need to unscrew the lower bolts securing the gearbox housing to the engine. After all the manipulations done, together with an assistant, you need to move the gearbox back in the direction of travel until the input shaft disengages from the engine flywheel. In fact, there is nothing complicated about replacing this unit; no special knowledge or skills are required.

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