Causes of misfire Kalina 8 cl

Diagnostics showed the following error: “misfire in cylinders 2 and 3.” After talking with service technicians and scouring the Internet, I decided to replace the spark plugs. I bought the car used with 50,000 mileage, so I can’t say how long the spark plugs lasted, but they looked normal - the gap was 1mm, there was no carbon deposits (see how to check here).

With new spark plugs, the engine began to run more stable, but after a few days the misfire error popped up again. After some more searching on the Internet, I decided to check the ignition coil and armored wires. You can find out how to do this from the car’s operating instructions; there are detailed instructions there, so I won’t give them here.

The check showed that everything seemed to be normal. What then is the reason? And the reason was this. The ignition coil (on 8-valve Kalinas) is conventionally divided into two parts, the first of which is responsible for cylinders 1-4, the second, respectively, for 2-3. Since misfires constantly occurred in 2-3 cylinders, I decided that it might be a faulty coil.

I bought a new SOATE at the store (price 500 UAH).

When installing, do not mix up the armor wires. They all have their own number (1, 2, 3, 4), the numbering of the cylinders starts from right to left. On the ignition coil, all terminals are also numbered:

After replacement, misfires no longer occurred. Armor wires can also cause misfires; if their resistance exceeds the norm too much, then they have become unusable and require replacement. If misfires appear in individual cylinders, then it makes sense to check the valve clearances and compression. There is also no need to ignore the injectors; they may need to be cleaned. Check the crankshaft position sensor.

How to rebuild a Lada engine

Serious malfunctions, of course, are very difficult to fix on your own, without special equipment, but every driver should know the basics.
So, how to rebuild an engine? Remove the motor and dismantle its components in the following sequence:

water pump;
generator;
carburetor;
starter;
gasoline pump;
collectors;
ignition system breaker;
camshaft drive;
valve cover;
flywheel;
clutch device;
pulley;
cylinder head.

Now clean the parts and carefully inspect them for damage. If you notice any defective ones, replace them with new ones. It is advisable not to use used parts, even if they are in reasonable condition.

Repairing the cylinder head. Here you should change the seals and put the valves in order. We carry out installation in reverse order

When replacing spark plugs, it is important not to forget to check the safety valve, since a short circuit may also blow the fuse

Is the engine acting up? Check the spark plugs!

So, what should we do if we set off on a long journey, but suddenly, unable to withstand a severe test of strength, the car stalled midway? The situation is not pleasant. But don’t give up, it’s time to get down to business. The problem may lie in the following.

Most likely, you filled your car with gasoline of not the best quality. It's possible that debris somehow got into the motor. Just in case, it’s still worth cleaning the fuel lines and the tank itself, drying it and filling it with normal fuel that you are sure of. By measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, you will know whether there is a problem here or whether you need to look further.
Damage to the fuel pump. It is easier to identify this problem: if the ignition is still turned on, then if there is a defect, the fuel pump makes a characteristic sound, indicating a malfunction. Remove the pump from the gas tank and check the outlet pressure in the tank using the power supply method. The pressure coefficient should not be less than 2 atmospheres.
Ignition system failure: spark plugs do not produce a spark. To fix the breakdown, you just need to replace the spark plugs with new ones; it won’t take much time.
Throttle assembly defective. This unit is the most important part that performs a significant part of the engine’s work. When it deteriorates, air and fuel mix, which leads to engine stupor.
Injector failure. This is the most rarely encountered problem.
It is necessary to adjust the timing valves if for some reason there is a violation of the clearances.
The gas pedal needs repair.
The motor has not yet been run in, so it malfunctions. The solution to the problem is simple: you need to be patient and break it in, driving 6000-7000 km. But it is worth remembering that the speed cannot be raised above 3000, otherwise serious repairs will be required after break-in.

This sensor monitors oil pressure

How to wash your engine safely

So, we have studied the main engine malfunctions and received advice on how to prevent them. Now let's talk about emergency assistance to a car that suddenly began to lose speed and is about to hopelessly stall.

If there is a problem on the road, use the emergency lights

We open the hood and examine the condition of all the parts. If you notice broken or burnt wires, replace them. Hoses, filter (it can be found under the bottom of the car), fuel lines - all this needs a thorough inspection. There may be a microscopic crack somewhere that is causing the failure. If there is a gasoline leak, it must be fixed as quickly as possible, because it may end in an explosion.

Prevention of such a phenomenon as engine “triplication” is that the car owner needs to promptly eliminate the most common malfunctions of the engine, as well as other related systems. To do this, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the periodic maintenance schedules established by the manufacturer for the vehicle.

At the same time, if you have little experience in owning a car, it is better not to engage in serious technical work yourself, but to entrust their implementation to experienced specialists.

In addition, it makes sense not to delay carrying out prevention at the first deterioration in engine performance, attributing them, for example, to low-quality gasoline. At the same time, all preventive measures should be carried out only in those auto repair shops where experienced craftsmen work. For example, incorrectly set ignition timing can lead to the appearance of “triple”.

Unqualified service station employees very often sin with this, especially if the car owner is a novice behind the wheel and has little understanding of the technical side of the matter.

In the same case, when all systems and components of Kalina work correctly, the “triple” effect should not occur. In this case, the service life of the engine should be significantly reduced, since the power unit, in which one of the cylinders is inoperative, may experience increased loads, leading to its accelerated failure.

Of course, you can and should wash the engine, but it must be done correctly. It would seem that it could be simpler: I took the car to the car wash, quickly washed everything, and no problems. However, in reality this does not always happen. The engine may not start or start to stall, and the indignant car owner will be told that the administration is not responsible for the consequences of washing the engine.

In addition to the fact that water under powerful pressure penetrates through seals where it should not be, the picture is complemented by shampoo for contactless washing, which is much more aggressive than conventional shampoo for manual washing. The strong alkaline environment of such shampoo causes corrosion of aluminum and copper parts and failure of various sensors. There are often cases when the owner washed his “swallow” so thoroughly that he disabled all the electrics.

Finding the cause of the malfunction

The engine starts to stall when the fuel pump malfunctions and does not pump in the required amount of fuel, or when it does not burn completely. The substrate of the first case is not only the fuel pump itself, but also the conductive system. And the second reason may be related to problems with the ignition system, spark plug carbon, or improper operation of the engine valves.

If the fuel system is not working properly

, the feeling that the engine is stalling will develop a minute after the start, and then will only increase. If there is a narrowing of the pipeline, or there is no power to the fuel pump, such problems are not uncommon. You can check this after exposing the relay: start the engine, check the functionality of the pump and relay. In this case, the on-board computer will not show errors.

If there is a problem in the valve apparatus itself, in the spark plugs or in the ignition system, it will also manifest itself. Namely: the engine will start normally, but a moment later it will start to stall. Similarly, the power unit fault light should light up, because standard sensors perceive an excess (or lack) of fuel.

When such interruptions in the fuel supply occur, twitching develops, because the amount of gases produced in different engine operating cycles varies.

The engine stalls when hot: causes and common faults

Let's start with the main features. Often, a cold engine starts quite normally, but then begins to stall after partial warming up or completely reaching operating temperatures. In this case, tripping can occur both at idle and under load (while driving).

In any case, incorrect readings or malfunctions of sensors (lambda probe, temperature sensor, mass air flow sensor, etc.) and actuators can cause a hot engine to fail. Based on incorrect readings, the ECU may well over-enrich the working fuel-air mixture and flood the spark plugs.

If the spark plug is wet and/or oily, then it is quite obvious that too much engine oil is entering the combustion chamber or the fuel is not being burned in the cylinder. In any case, a wet spark plug does not allow the cylinder to operate normally. Let us add that often both causes are often present simultaneously or are a consequence of each other.

If all the spark plugs are wet, you should check the oil level in the internal combustion engine. When the level is elevated (often as a result of overflow), the oil pressure in the lubrication system after the engine warms up exceeds the norm, excess lubricant penetrates the combustion chamber and contaminates the spark plugs. The result is a weak spark.

Consequences of error P0300

When an engine misfires in the exhaust pipe, the level of exhaust gas toxicity increases, which, in turn, can also lead to an increase in the temperature in the catalyst, which causes its damage (the honeycombs melt because the temperature exceeds the threshold of 800 °C ). On some cars, in order to reduce the burnout of fuel in the catalytic converter and, consequently, the level of toxicity, the ECM unit monitors the frequency of misfires using crankshaft and camshaft sensors and, in addition to registering error p0300, signaling a checkengine light, it can also turn off the injectors of a specific cylinder, in which the gap was discovered. It is worth mentioning that most often, for some reason, the owners of cars such as Lacetti, Matiz, Priora and other injection VAZs, as well as Opel, Nissan, Kia cars, are interested in the reasons for the occurrence of this error.

Diagnostics using a computer

If your car is equipped with a modern control unit, then this greatly simplifies troubleshooting; otherwise, you will have to use time-tested old-fashioned methods.

By connecting the computer to the car, you can find out in which cylinder, 1, 2, 3 or 4, and for what reason there are misfires, for example, the ignition coil or one of the injectors has failed.

But in any case, before going to a car service center, you need to check the condition of the spark plugs, injectors, high-voltage wires, how the exhaust system works, and whether there is smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Many car owners cannot afford instruments for car diagnostics, these include scanners (software and portable), motor testers, oscilloscopes, gas analyzers and other devices, and you need to be able to use them, read error codes, and so on. Although if you look into it, there is nothing complicated there.

The scanner is connected to a special connector, which can be located in different places in each car model, but it has one function: diagnostics.

Next, error codes are read from the control unit and decrypted.

For example, VAZ 2110, 2114, 2115, Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta cars have the following error codes that are characteristic of misfire:

P0300 - a large number of misfires;
P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 – misfires in cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4, respectively;
P0300 - a large number of misfires in a random order;
P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 – misfires were detected in 1, 2, 3 and 4, respectively;
P0363 – see point 4 + fuel supply to problem cylinders is stopped;
P1301, P1302, P1303, P1304 – respectively, misfires dangerous for the catalytic converter were detected in cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4;
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 – detection of misfires affecting the toxicity of exhaust gases;
P0363, P1301, P1302, P1303, P1304 – the same as in point 7, but affecting the catalyst;
P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354 – open circuit in the ignition coil in the control circuit 1 (1-4), 2 (2-3), 3, 4;
P2301 P2303 P2305 P2307 - short to on-board network in the coil in the control circuit of cylinders 1 (1-4), 2 (2-3), 3, 4;
P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204 – respectively, open circuit for controlling injectors 1,2,3,4;
P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270 - short circuit of the injector control wires to the body, respectively, in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th center;
P0262, P0265, P0268, P0271 – the same as point 12, but only to the on-board network;
P1500 – electric fuel pump relay, wire break.

Symptoms of a problem

A mixture misfire is a failure to ignite the fuel-air mixture or its untimely ignition. In any of the cases, the system counts the number of misses and delays, and, if necessary, turns off the idle cylinder or even a pair. On most cars, the first sign of a malfunction is the “check” symbol lighting up on the dashboard.

Also among the common signs can be noted:

Smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe. Since the mixture did not ignite in the cylinder, it is discharged almost unchanged or partially neutralized.
Shoots in the exhaust system. If a partial fire occurs, the catalytic converter is severely damaged, which can lead to popping noises.
Loss of power. The engine does not work properly, causing the crankshaft to spin at a lower speed, resulting in a significant loss of power.
Engine tripping. Failure of one or a pair of cylinders leads to the fact that the engine begins to vibrate during operation and other signs of malfunction appear.

In cars with an electronic control unit, there are several types of errors that indicate a breakdown.

P0300. It is a sign of multiple failures in the process of ignition of the combustible mixture in different cylinders.
P0301 - p0304. The last number shows which cylinder is not working properly.

Engine diagnostics

Before you start tinkering with the hardware, it’s worth turning to the car’s software and understanding whether the reason may lie in the failure of one of the power unit’s sensors or in a so-called software failure.

Getting access to the car's software is quite simple. To do this, the motorist will need some equipment and materials. First, you should find out which engine control unit is installed on the vehicle.

To do this, you need to look at the service documentation or decipher the body number. The second option is not available to everyone, and therefore it is worth following the path of the slightest resistance. Electronic engine control units marked 11186-1411020-12 can be installed on the Lada Kalina 2 power unit.

Diagnostics Lada Kalina 2.

Depending on which ECU is installed on the car, it is worth choosing software for diagnosing and repairing software. Also, in the process you cannot do without a USB data cable, which is called OBD II. Well, to perform direct diagnostics and guide the process - a laptop computer or tablet.

Let's proceed directly to the process of diagnostics and troubleshooting. We install the appropriate program on the tablet, which will not only allow it to synchronize with the ECU, but will also make it possible to carry out full diagnostics. After installing the software, connect the cable to the tablet and control unit.

By analyzing the data obtained, you can understand what the condition of the equipment is and whether there are problems. Typically, diagnostics show failed sensors that need to be replaced. After replacement, it is worth clearing the accumulated errors and trying to see if the engine operation has changed. If this does not happen and the cause remains, then you should go directly to looking for the causes in the hardware.

FakeHeader

Comments 41

Here's what to do if the spark plugs are changed 3-4t.km. back (at maintenance) When the problem arose for the first time, they changed the coil in the second cylinder, but after 3 days the problem came out again - they cleaned all the injectors, replaced the fuel filter, but after 3 days the same problem again...

does the CHECK appear on the dashboard?

Yes, it appears when starting it cold and warming up for a couple of minutes and there it is. I turned it off, started it, and it seemed to be running normally. It started even without checks, it just started and stalled right away, there were still frosts (autostart), it started up again normally. Then it started to start and stalled not immediately, but after some time (also with autostart) it was back to normal. Then I started it with the key - and saw a check; when I start it again, it disappears. The check came out about 10 minutes later, everything was fine again. And it simply stalled in a traffic jam. And well, the funniest thing is - pp.userapi.com/c639719/v6...444/44518/bajmD9S-lkk.jpgThe dashboard allows you to connect an external temperature sensor, but of course I don’t have one, and there was very surprised. There are two options - either -40 or points

1) Regarding the temperature sensor, not all trim levels have it. Buy and connect) What is the error number?

2) Regarding the stalling, this is a jamb of the factory firmware, specifically for Grants with automatic transmission. Here is an excerpt from the Za Rulem magazine article “The same Jatco JF414E automatic machine works on the Grant and the mi-DO hatchback. The editorial mi-DO made me suffer: sometimes when braking or even in leisurely walking mode, the engine suddenly stalled. To restart it, it was necessary to put the machine into “parking”, and this can only be done by stopping completely! The reason for the vagaries lay in the fact that initially the engine calibrations were calculated for the version with a manual transmission, but for a car with an automatic transmission they were not the best fit: the mechanical losses of the transmission were not taken into account, which are much higher in hydromechanics. ————-We managed to push through solution to the problem at the factory level: a diagnostic unit was installed in the editorial car, which we drove with for several months. Decryption made it possible to catch errors, and mi-DO received new firmware for the engine control unit. Now this program has gone into series: with its appearance, other unpleasant symptoms of automatic Datsuns have disappeared. The engine speed no longer drops during heavy braking, and the cramps that shook the car when the air conditioning was turned on have disappeared.”

Sometimes you get into the car, the key is turned to start, and the engine barely spins up, vibrates a lot, and troits, the check light comes on. However, as the engine warms up, it starts to run smoothly. But it jerks when moving under tension, or during rapid acceleration. With such symptoms, the first thing you need to do is, of course, read the error codes. If you have an on-board computer, then this is not a problem at all, if not, diagnostics via the connector will help

Most often we will see two typical errors:

0363 - Misfire detected, fuel supply to idle cylinders is turned off

1303 - Cylinder 3, misfire detected, critical for the converter

In addition, we can get the following:

0300 and 0303 - Checking for misfires that affect toxicity. The number of misfires is greater than the threshold value

Full set of possible errors:

P0300, 0302, 0363, 1302, 0301, 1301, 0346, 1303

So, the problem should be looked for in this order:

4. Ignition module.

In 60% of cases, everything is solved by replacing the spark plugs with new ones; in rare cases, they pull wires along with them; the worst option is burnt-out valves, but this needs to be ruled out by measuring compression. In order to exclude the mass air flow sensor or the ignition module without losing money, I recommend taking them for analysis with the condition of being able to return them, or from the corefan, if he has a mark or a four. Good luck to everyone on the roads and fewer breakdowns.

The reason that error 0363 appears on the VAZ 2114 is the so-called misfire. It is the absence of an electric spark at the spark plug of one of the cylinders, as a result of which only three cylinders are involved in the operation of the engine.

Externally, tripping looks like a large loss of power, sharp jerking of the car and strong exhaust sounds. In most cases, the car will not even be able to move. This phenomenon can occur either periodically or constantly.

The reasons may be:

lack of spark on the cylinder spark plug;
poor quality fuel-air mixture;
damage (burnout) of the gasket;
damage to the cylinder itself.

We will consider the first of these reasons (misfire) below.

Troit in wet weather

The question very often arises: “Why does the engine stall in wet weather, that is, in high humidity?” Quite often, drivers have problems starting the engine in wet weather, and after an overnight stay, the car does not want to obey at all.

Especially in the morning, when everyone is rushing to work, a problem arises with the fact that the car either stalls or does not even show symptoms of operation, and everything lies in only one thing - excessive humidity. But how can you determine where moisture is very high and how it got there?

How to figure out what is causing problems in wet weather?

If you have carried out a visual inspection of the car under the hood and did not see any wet places, as well as any indicators of damage, the first thing you should do is start the engine.

We achieve success only on the 5th, or even 10th attempt, the grip occurs only 4-5 times, in most cases, even 10 attempts are not enough to successfully start.

If you still start on the first try and do not observe any obvious problems, then you should let the car cool down, after which the problem will repeat. Only after a run of 10 km will the engine start up without causing any problems.

You can check in other simple ways to find the problem. To do this, you should park the car in an unlit place. After this, at night you should open the hood, after which your partner should turn the key to the start.

Condensation formed in the distributor cap.

After checking the injectors and fuel pump, it is best to change the filters; if no problems are found, then there are unlikely to be other problems. It’s not worth going too deep; in this case, you can only blame the condensation that has formed in the distributor cover.

New Lada: How to install a tow bar on Lada Granta and Lada Kalina » Lada.Online - all the most interesting and useful about LADA cars

Let's move on to inspecting the cover, studying it from the inside. Of course, you can even dry it, but the distributors are installed differently on different engines, but the vulnerability in them is the same. Therefore, it is worth washing the lid from the inside first with gasoline or degreaser. Then remove the moisture with alcohol.

Why does the engine still stall?

If the “northern lights” are detected, and this happens extremely rarely, it is best to overhaul the engine.

Many of its parts are subject to reassembly: the distributor cover and high-voltage wires, after which, armed with a can of cleaner, the cheapest copy will do to treat everything from accumulated dust and dirt.

Next we treat everything with VDeshka, you can also use silicone spray. Now this problem will no longer bother you during wet weather, and engine stalling will also stop. Now any weather conditions will not affect engine operation. This scenario is the most popular, but you can also encounter other problems.

If you have problems starting the engine, you need to monitor the power of the spark. To do this, we observe the spark located on the central wire from the high-voltage coil. Next, we move on to the cylinders, after which we observe its power in the distributor, whether it remains there or disappears. After all, the reason may be a simple lack of spark that ignites the mixture.

What can you say if the engine in a Logan is misfiring?

After writing the article, I decided to also make a video review, where I told the whole story in detail. If my experience was useful to someone, I was happy to help.

Why troitdvigatel

Lada Kalina

The Kalina engine is malfunctioning - most of the drivers of this Russian car have encountered this problem. With all this, it should be noted that a similar problem is not a proprietary problem of this model, because it is quite common in both other Russian cars and foreign cars.

Replacing the ignition module on a viburnum and checking it

Welcome! Ignition module - someone else calls it a coil, but this is the wrong name and it came from the people; in fact, inside this module there are two ignition coils, one of which goes to two cylinders and the other of which also goes to two cylinders.

Note! In order to change the ignition module in a car, you will need tools, namely you will need: A hex wrench with which you will unscrew the hex bolts that secure the module itself, in addition, be sure to stock up on a wrench with which you will blue the minus terminal from the battery batteries!

Where is the ignition module located? On the eight-valve native engine of the Kalina car, it is located in the front part of the car between the engine and the TV (The TV is the very front part of the car that connects both side members together, it is made in the form of metal; headlights, front bumper, etc. are also put on it ., the wings no longer belong to it), for a more detailed location, see the photo located just below:

Note! If you own a 16 valve car, then in this case the module is located in a completely different place and you have four of them (above the spark plugs) and if you need to replace them, then follow the link to another article that is posted on our website and read it, it’s called: “Replacing Spark Plugs”!

When do you need to change the ignition module? As mentioned earlier, there are two coils inside it, one of the coils leads to the first and fourth cylinders, and the other to the third and second, thus if one of the coils fails, the engine will start to double (Many car enthusiasts ask the question after the word double, namely, they ask: “How is it, this doesn’t happen,” in fact, you can simply hear these words rarely, many are accustomed to the word the engine is tripping and they don’t know how it’s doubled, in general, doubled means two cylinders are not working) , due to the fact that two cylinders have stopped working, you can immediately say that the car’s power will decrease by half, in connection with this, “Check engine” will light up on the instrument panel, which will tell you that something is wrong with the engine, and of course But there will be a problem with the idle speed, namely it will float, then the tachometer needle will go up, then it will fall down, etc.

How can you tell if a cylinder has failed?

To do this, disconnect the wiring from the spark plugs one by one. In the case where there is no spark, you will understand that the slave cylinder is vibrating. During the test, you must be extremely careful so that you do not get an electric shock.

In addition, when diagnosing a carburetor engine, the switch or distributor can be broken. To prevent this from happening, put the spark plug wire on a regular bolt, so the spark will work without interruption.

Carrying out diagnostics on injection-type engines is easy and safe. After all, such a power unit uses a direct fuel injection system into all cylinders.

How do you know if the injection engine is faulty? First of all, turn off the fuel supply to the injectors. If you feel that the car has become worse, it means that the cylinder has failed.

We recommend

To carry out diagnostics on a diesel engine that idles at idle, remove the nuts from the high-pressure fuel pipes one by one. They are attached to the nozzles.

Misfires 1st and 4th cylinder Lada Kalina

VAZ (Lada) Kalina I 2004 - 2013

Misfires after the engine temperature rises above 90°. I replaced the spark plugs, explosive wires, and ignition module, but the problem remained.

I checked the spark during engine twinning, it either wasn’t there, or it seemed to be low-power (it seemed so to me). During the omissions, the catalytic collector became red-hot.

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The manifold is hot because gasoline from cylinders 1 and 4 burns out. Remove the ECU and look, it's probably poisoned with antifreeze.

Valve adjustment, valves are tight, compression drops

I don't drive a car in winter. I just adjusted the valves as soon as I put it in the garage, started it, brought it to operating temperature and turned it off. A month later I went to the garage to warm it up and this is the problem. I adjusted it in the fall in a cool garage, maybe while I was adjusting the engine had time to cool down, so the gaps disappeared.

Today, using a homemade spark tester (from a syringe), I checked the high voltage on the spark plugs of cylinders 1 and 4. As soon as the spark started more than 10 mm, then when the temperature rose to 90 degrees. and ghosting began, I checked the spark again. It decreased to 4-5 mm and became yellow. I started to make mistakes on the ECU, opened it up, everything was covered in antifreeze. There are tears of varnish on the seal near the output transistor. I'll try to wash it with alcohol and put it up, but I'll move it to another place. I'll write about the result.

Cylinder 4 Kalina injector 8 valves does not work

Hello.
I used the search, but didn’t find anything suitable, so moderators, sorry if anything happens. The problem is this. I start the car, it works like a clock, but as it warms up, misfires in the 4th cylinder begin and when the engine temperature reaches approximately 55-60 degrees and above, the engine begins to mercilessly triple. Over-gassing doesn't help. If you turn off the engine and start it again, the misfires disappear for about 30 seconds, then it starts again. The BC gives an error: numerous misfires in the 4th cylinder, the check light is on. I changed the spark plugs to new NGK ones. There is no result. I unscrewed the spark plug of the 4th cylinder and looked, it was dry, that is, completely dry and did not even smell of fuel. I inserted the old one, same thing. I looked at the wires and they don't break anywhere. What is the problem.

Thank you very much in advance.

The pinout of the force chip is here:

For me, when something similar happens, I go the proven route of “plugs, wires, coils.” » BC not installed? It helps a lot, by the way. Last summer, on the way to the dacha, it also began to jerk (if you give it some gas), the check light came on, the BC threw out errors (numerous omissions in 1 and 4), I got to the nearest store, bought spark plugs and one coil (I have 4 of them), changed the spark plugs, errors I threw it off and everything is fine.

The BC is installed, it gives the error: numerous misfires in the 4th cylinder

serg_42

i.e. this is not an ignition module.

. i.e. this is not an ignition module.

Well, you yourself write that the candle is dry. And the misfire can be due to two reasons: 1) either there is nothing to burn 2) or there is nothing to set the ECU on fire, who is to blame in these cases: the force or the ignition coil of the 4th cylinder. He simply sees (by the uneven rotation of the crankshaft) that on the stroke of the 4th cylinder there is a sudden slowdown in the rotation speed.

. i.e. this is not an ignition module.

I had this happen, as it heats up to 50-60 troit, then there was no BC yet, but the check light came on.

Force flushing helped.

I had this happen, as it heats up to 50-60 troit, then there was no BC yet, but the check light came on.

Force flushing helped.

The spark plug is 100% dry. I'll try it this week, the car is in the garage. And if the resistance is more or less than 12 ohms, what should you do? And if everything is fine with the resistance and the entire operation performed does not bring results, what to do. I’m asking because our car is in the garage and the garage is a little far from the house, so that if I go, I’ll definitely figure it out.

You need to start by tucking mom. There's probably a problem there.

In order not to call the force control circuits to the ECU, you can simply measure the uniformity of voltages on the force mother:

Source

How to detect a malfunction yourself

Be sure to read our specialist’s article, which tells you how to set the ignition correctly.

In cars with ECU

In cars with an ECU, troubleshooting is a fairly easy task. To do this, you need to connect an autotester and find the error codes

If among the error codes there is an indication of a specific cylinder, then you should pay special attention to the condition of the element. Perhaps the problem is hidden in the armor wires or spark plugs that go to this cylinder

The gaskets may also need to be replaced. If a complex error (p0300) is issued, then you should pay special attention to the quality of the fuel and the filter.

Faulty spark plug

An accompanying symptom that confirms the hypothesis that the cause is the spark plug is the fact that a cold engine trots more strongly. After warming up, the problem often disappears or becomes less pronounced.

First of all, you should pay attention to the color of the central electrode insulator. Determining a normally working spark plug is not difficult. A normal insulator is light or slightly brownish. If the color of the insulator is different from normal, then you need to find out why. Traces of oil or carbon deposits on the insulator indicate that an over-enriched mixture is entering the cylinder, which floods the spark plug, or it is “filled” with oil. As a result, normal sparking is disrupted.

The reasons for this may be different:

After the insulator, you should inspect the spark plug body. It must be intact, without chips or cracks. Particular attention should be paid to the presence or absence of vertical black stripes and black dots. If they are, the spark plug is broken and needs to be replaced.

Finally, the quality of sparking is checked. Moreover, simply connecting the side electrode to ground is not enough, in this way you can only check the performance of the spark plug. To understand how well the spark plug works, you need to hold it at a distance of one and a half to two centimeters from the ground and turn on the starter.

You can also find videos on the Internet with detailed instructions for checking spark plugs.

Lada Kalina misfires in cylinder 3

It all started when, on the way home from work, for no apparent reason, the engine started to misfire and stopped pulling. Before this, a check light came on on the dashboard, after blinking several times. The problem was solved by stopping and restarting the engine. A few days later the same thing happened again. I decided to diagnose the car. Diagnostics showed the following error: “misfire in cylinders 2 and 3.” After talking with service technicians and scouring the Internet, I decided to replace the spark plugs. I bought the car used with 50,000 mileage, so I can’t say how long the spark plugs lasted, but they looked normal - the gap was 1mm, there was no carbon deposits (see how to check here).

I bought a new SOATE at the store (price 500 UAH).

Engine misfires on Lada Kalina when cold (solved) - 5 answers

VAZ Kalina, 8V, 2022 After starting the engine, after about half a minute, it starts to oscillate.

The check light is on, the on-board computer states that there is a misfire in cylinder 2. This continues for 3-4 minutes until it warms up a bit. I clear the errors, start it up and everything works fine.

This only occurs with a cold engine. The pressure in the cylinders was checked - normal, in the injectors - normal, the spark plugs were replaced (2 sets), the installation of a known working ignition module with armored wires, the installation of a known working ECU.

Still misfiring in cylinder 2. There are no oil stains in the coolant tank, the antifreeze is clean, the filler cap for pouring oil into the engine is without traces of any emulsion. Who has encountered this, please help me, where to dig next? Could this be a burnt head gasket? How to accurately determine?

For most modern cars

In modern cars, misfires will always be accompanied by the Check Engine light turning on. Reading the error code will indicate which cylinder has the problem, but the code may not accurately indicate whether it is a problem with the injector serving that cylinder or the systems supplying the ignition spark. As with older cars, it's a good idea to look at the wires and spark plugs. One way that technicians test which spark plug is causing the problem is to run the engine at idle, high RPM for a misfire, and then remove the wires from the ignition coil pack (a device that looks like the distributor we're used to). seen in older cars) one after another. Disconnecting wires sequentially will cause major changes in idle performance, but the faulty wire may not be found. This suggests that the cause is either the spark plug or the coil serving that cylinder. If, after installing a new spark plug in this cylinder, the misfires do not stop, you may need to replace the coil or wire in the kit.

If the misfire problem is not in the ignition system, then you need to check the injectors. To do this, you can use a multimeter; it is needed to check the resistance value on each injector. Reaching them can be difficult and sometimes requires removing the engine cover and intake manifold. Disconnect the injector, then touch the multimeter probes to the two connector pins to read the ohms value. If the data of any of the injectors is read outside the standard values, it must be replaced.

Additionally, a fuel pump starting to fail can also cause misfire or similar problems and can be diagnosed by checking the entire system's fuel pressure with the appropriate equipment. But, this should only be done by a qualified technician, since the fuel system is under high pressure and, of course, the fuel is highly flammable.

Signs of engine tripping

How to determine if a cylinder has failed:

After a cylinder failure, the power unit will shake at idle speed. Unfortunately, an inexperienced driver is unlikely to notice this immediately after a breakdown. The fact is that this symptom occurs over time. And if you notice that the engine is shaking, it means that the problems started a long time ago. And after the cylinder failed, the engine worked for a long time and became worn out.
The spark plug became dark, smoked, and carbon deposits formed. This sign indicates that the spark plug should be replaced. But this is at best, and at worst, such a symptom means that the machine is not working properly. Even though spark plugs can be used for quite a long time, they should not be sooted. A slight change in shade is allowed.
The exhaust system began to sound differently. This also indicates a cylinder failure.
If the car picks up speed poorly, both at low and high speeds, then the engine is not functioning properly. The reason could be either a cylinder failure or another engine failure.
The car began to consume more fuel. In this case, you should definitely check the operation of the engine. This symptom indicates a serious problem with the motor.