Replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2107 car

What is the function of the cylinder head gasket?

The cylinder head gasket is located between the cylinder head and the cylinders and performs several functions:

• seals the place where the head adheres to the cylinder block;
• prevents oil from leaking and coolant from entering the cylinders;
• Restrains internal pressure and heat.

Thus, it separates three systems: gas distribution, cooling and lubrication. Experiencing heavy loads, it wears out quickly.

Gasket with traces of breakdowns

The following are signs that may indicate the need for replacement:

• insufficient pressure in one or more cylinders;
• foaming of the coolant, a drop in its level in the absence of an external leak, occurs due to gases entering the cooling system;
• emulsion on the oil dipstick, an increase in the oil level in the pan, the reason for this is the presence of antifreeze in the lubrication system;
• the appearance of oil stains on the surface of the coolant and the radiator neck indicates a broken gasket in the area of ​​the oil channel;
• white smoke in the exhaust gases, while the coolant level drops;
• squeezing out the coolant fluid from the expansion tank in the form of foam indicates a violation of the tightness of one of the cylinders;
• The coolant level drops and the engine boils.

The video describes the signs of gasket burnout.

Damage to the gasket may be caused by:

• low-quality consumables;
• overheating of the power unit;
• improper tightening of cylinder head bolts;
• insufficient coolant level;
• Incorrect installation of the cylinder head.

When should you change?

Note that replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2101-2107 is rarely done with your own hands. The manufacturer does not regulate the period for its replacement, since the part is installed for its entire service life. However, there are times when it burns out.

How to determine this malfunction? The first sign is engine overheating. The second is a leak at the junction of the block and the head. Both antifreeze and oil can escape from here. Also, these two fluids are mixed in the expansion tank. When the engine is running, there are small gas bubbles in the engine. All these signs indicate that the car needs to replace the head gasket. VAZ "Classic" is a simple car to use. Therefore, you can do this procedure yourself.

Installation

So, before us is the opened head of the block. All we have to do is remove the old gasket and install a new one in its place. It is important to thoroughly clean the contact surface. If this is not done, oil will leak through small channels into the adjacent chamber and mix with antifreeze. Experts recommend using a special spray.

It’s called “to remove gaskets.” Its cost is about 400 rubles. A volume of 300 ml is enough for several doses. Instructions for use are quite simple. It is necessary to apply the spray to the surface of the block and after ten minutes, remove the remaining element with a clean piece of rag.

The new gasket already has red silicone sealant on it. All we have to do is install it in its rightful place. Using two guides, we center the element in the block. Now all that remains is to assemble the engine.

Need for replacement

There are few reasons for replacement and some of them require immediate intervention, while others not so much, that is, the vehicle can be used, albeit in a gentle manner.

Reasons for replacement:

• Damage to the gasket in the area of ​​the cooling system channel and the drainage channel of the lubrication system. When this happens, the coolant ends up in the oil pan and mixes with the lubricant. The result is a mixture with a brownish tint. This can be detected by checking the lubricant level in the power unit on the dipstick. This malfunction is also indicated by a decrease in the coolant level in the radiator. If you do not intervene in time, the consequences can be catastrophic, including the destruction of the power unit.
• Damage to the gasket in the area of ​​the cooling system channel and cylinder. This may occur due to a poor quality gasket or an incorrectly installed head.
• Burnout in the cylinder area. This malfunction is detected and diagnosed by a decrease in compression in the cylinders and unstable engine operation.

  
  Burnout between cylinders

• Destruction of the gasket. If coolant begins to leak through the gasket and all efforts to tighten the cylinder head do not bring any results, then an urgent replacement is necessary.

Disassembly

So, where does the replacement of the cylinder head gasket begin on a VAZ-2107 car? First, remove the air filter with a round metal housing (shown in the photo below).

Next, unscrew and take out the carburetor. After this, they begin to dismantle other attachments. This is the ignition distributor and high-voltage wires. After this, the coolant is drained from the engine. It is required to prepare a clean container with a volume of at least 7 liters.

Preparatory work

The first thing to do is remove the air filter. For those who have a carburetor VAZ, the process is not difficult. With injection models you will have to tinker a little longer.

To gain access to the cylinder head, you need to completely dismantle the part of the fuel system located in the engine compartment.

It is better to remove the carburetor completely, since removing the cylinder head with it is a rather labor-intensive procedure, as a result of which one of the components is often damaged.

After this, unscrew the nut holding the distributor - it and the cables are removed. Sometimes the fastener does not give way. It is not difficult to break its tightness by treating the fastener with WD-40 and leaving it alone for a couple of minutes.

At this point, disassembly is stopped, since it is necessary to drain the coolant - place a container under the fitting located on the bottom and unscrew its plug. After this, slowly (this is important) unscrew the cap from the distribution tank.

When the antifreeze has poured out, proceed to dismantling the cylinder head casing. Use a socket wrench for this. Place the loosened nuts and spring washers in a box so as not to get lost.

Now all that remains is to remove the head and install a new gasket. We won’t dwell on this point – there is nothing complicated here.

Drain antifreeze correctly

On a VAZ-2107 car, replacing the cylinder head gasket is relatively quick. However, most of the operation will be draining the old antifreeze. The fact is that the “classic” does not have the familiar drain tap. There is a “traffic jam” here. How to perform this procedure correctly? So, we need a container and a meter of rubber hose with a diameter of at least 1 centimeter. We bring one end of it to the drain plug. With the other side, quickly press the hose against the hole. So the antifreeze will pour into our container. You need to be careful not to spill antifreeze on your hands.

What's next?

How to further replace the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ-2107? The next step is to remove the valve cover. It is secured with 8 bolts. It is important not to lose the pressure washers - they will be useful to us during assembly. The next step requires removing the timing element, namely the chain drive and gear. To do this, loosen the tensioner and use a wrench to release the locknut. The chain should now loosen. Now let's disassemble the gear.

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It is attached to the camshaft on a lock washer. Using a screwdriver and hammer, bend the stopper and unscrew the element outward. By the way, the chain does not have to be completely removed. The main thing is that it does not fall down. To do this, it is tied with a handy tool (for example, wire).

How to replace the cylinder head gasket next? The VAZ-2107 continues to stand still, and we move on to dismantling the camshaft. To do this, unscrew the 9 mounting bolts. Then we disconnect the exhaust pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold. It is installed on 4 brass nuts. If your pipe is screwed onto ordinary steel pipes, there is a risk of tearing off the pin. Be extremely careful. If there is rust or dirty deposits, use universal lubricant VD-40.

Step by step guide

VAZ 2107 cylinder head in the engine compartment Many problems can be resolved after tightening the bolts, but if this does not help, then a major overhaul of this unit may be necessary, which involves removing not only the cylinder head, but also other parts of the block. Some parts may need to be replaced, such as gaskets, valve stem seals and valve guides.

Tools

To work we will need the following tools:

Micrometer

• flushing liquid;
• pliers;
• hammer;
• mandrels for removing and installing valves and caps;
• torque wrench; Torque wrench
• tiles (preferably the spiral is closed);
• desiccant. Valve desiccant
  Before starting repair work on the cylinder head, it must first be removed and cleaned of dirt.

  Stages

  Preparatory work and head removal

  1. The first step is to drain the coolant from the engine.

  We remove the carburetor.

• Having disconnected the pipes and hoses, remove the air barrier.

Disconnect the hoses and pipes

• Remove the head cover.
• We align the marks on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the camshaft drive and the marks on the camshaft pulley with the mark on its housing as shown in the photo. Aligning marks
• By disconnecting the camshaft lock washer, loosen the chain tension.
• Having torn off the bolt, remove the sprocket.
• Unscrew the fastenings.
• We remove the camshaft with the housing. Camshaft
  Having previously made marks using a marker, remove the rockers.

  Removing rockers

• Disconnect the wires.
• We remove the pipe and unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the block.
• We remove the head.
• We inspect its condition and clean it of dirt. Inspection of the head condition
  This video shows the process of removing the cylinder head.

  Checking status

  Now it's time to dry out the valves. This is done with a special device. If chips, cracks, and rust are not visible, we conduct a further inspection. We evaluate the condition of the saddles, the repair of which is recommended every two hundred thousand kilometers.

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  Changing guide bushings

  We inspect the guide bushings; if they are in unsatisfactory condition, they must be replaced.

  A special tool is used to remove them. If you don’t have this on hand, you can get by with pliers and a clamp. After removing the bushings, we measure their diameter. We buy similar ones, the size of which is 0.05-0.07 millimeters larger than the ones being replaced.

  The guides are pressed in using a mandrel, an electric stove, a hammer and lubricant.

  1. We place the head on a stand at the edges.

  We place the electrical device under the place of work.

• We wait until the metal heats up to about one hundred degrees (so that it expands).
• Now you need to properly lubricate the bushing with grease.
• Having removed it from the holders, we drive in new guides.
• When all eight are replaced, we wait for the cylinder head to cool down.
• The valves should not dangle and move freely, there should not be any jamming.

Checking the tightness of the head

Checking tightness To ensure a tight fit of the valves to the seats, do the following. Using lapping paste, lubricate the valve and insert it into the head. There are several techniques for rotating it, here are some of them:

• using a hose tightly placed on the part;
• using a device very similar to a corkscrew.

The main sign of good valve lapping will be a specific matte surface of the seat in the place where it contacts the part.

The tightness of the head can be checked by pouring kerosene into the collectors; you can also use gasoline. If done correctly, there should be no leaks for the first five to seven minutes.

Attention! All engine parts must be washed with a special solution, this will ensure long-term and uninterrupted operation of the power plant for a long time.

When assembling the head, be sure to pay attention to the correct tightening of the bolts. It must be carried out strictly according to the scheme. In case of incorrect broaching, distortions may appear and, as a result, all your previous work will be crossed out. If you have any questions, watch the video.

What to consider when choosing a new product

In order for the gasket to perform its functions, it must be resistant to elevated temperatures and have the ability to compress. These properties depend on the material of manufacture. There are several options for making gaskets: from asbestos, paronite, metal and their combinations.

Combined options, layers of which are made of different materials, combine several properties. Gaskets made of asbestos and metal alloys have increased resistance to high temperatures, but do not strengthen the seal between the head and the cylinder block. Products made of paronite and rubber provide high-quality sealing, but their limit for high temperatures is lower. When choosing a gasket, preference should be given to products of a combined type.

In order not to make a mistake when choosing a seal, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the power unit that is installed on the car. The VAZ 2107 can be equipped with one of three types of engines. They differ in cylinder diameter. The power unit 2103 has a diameter of 76 mm, while the 2105 and 2106 have a diameter of 79 mm. If you install a gasket of the wrong diameter, the edges of the seal will be damaged. Naturally, the seal will be broken.

When is it necessary to replace the cylinder head seal?

When a gasket burns out, the damage is significant: integrity is lost, the part loses its shape. In the event of a breakdown, the damage is minor, sometimes even invisible to the naked eye.

The gasket becomes unusable for the following reasons:

• overheat;
• During installation, fasteners are tightened with a deviation from the tightening torque standards;
• poor quality refrigerant;
• engine malfunctions;
• defective, low-quality product.

The power unit overheats due to malfunctions of the cooling system elements: radiator, fan, etc. To burn out the gasket, it is enough to drive literally 500 meters. When installing the cylinder head seal, it is important to observe the order of tightening the fasteners and the torque to which they are tightened. If these rules are violated, the seal will be deformed and will subsequently be broken. Poor quality coolant can cause corrosion, causing damage to the seal material and even the cylinder head.

A damaged cylinder head gasket can be identified by the following signs:

• interruptions in the operation of the power unit;
• leaks of working fluids from under the cylinder head;
• rapid heating and overheating of the motor;
• traces of coolant in lubricants;
• steam in exhaust gases;
• condensation on spark plugs;
• increased pressure in the cooling system, smoke appears in the expansion tank.

Symptoms vary depending on where the gasket is damaged. If the edges of the cylinder bores are damaged, the engine may overheat and the pressure in the cooling system may increase.

If the coolant gets into the combustion chambers, the engine will start to stall, since it will be diluted with refrigerant in the fuel assembly and will not be able to burn completely. White smoke with a specific odor will come out of the exhaust pipe.

If there is damage on the edge of the seal, leaks of working fluids may occur at the point of contact between the cylinder block and the head.

Signs of a burned out cylinder head gasket.

If signs of seal burnout appear, you need to take a comprehensive approach to diagnosis. Before you start replacing the seal, you need to make sure that this is the reason. To do this, you need to perform the following series of actions:

1. Having discovered fluid leaks on the cylinder block, you need to make sure that it is flowing exactly from under the head.
2. We start the engine and analyze the color and smell of the exhaust. If they look like white smoke or smell like antifreeze, turn off the engine and carefully unscrew the cap from the expansion tank. The presence of exhaust gases in the cooling system is indicated by the smell of burnt fuel.
3. We start the engine without a cap on the expansion tank; there should be no traces of oil or gas bubbles inside it.
4. We turn off the engine and let it cool. We take out the dipstick to measure the oil level and look at its color. If its level has risen too much for no particular reason or there are traces of white-brown liquid, this indicates a mixture of oil and refrigerant.
5. Let the power unit run for 5 minutes and turn it off. We take out the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes. If they are wet, then there is a high probability that coolant has entered the cylinders.

Removing the cylinder head

Sequencing:

1. Remove the battery. This will provide convenient access to the GBS head and protect against short circuits.
2. Remove the air filter.
3. Remove the carburetor on the carburetor version of the engine.

4. Remove the ignition wires and distributor (if equipped).

5. Drain the coolant from the cylinder head by unscrewing the plug. Before draining, you need to wait until the engine has cooled down.

6. Loosen the clamps and disconnect the rubber pipes of the cooling system going to the cylinder head.

7. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing the 8 nuts and removing them along with the shaped pressure washers.

8. Loosen the chain tensioner by unscrewing the fixing nut. For convenience, you can completely dismantle it.

9. Using a screwdriver and hammer, bend the edges of the lock washer on the camshaft gear mounting bolt and unscrew the bolt. Remove the gear. Tie the chain removed from the gear with wire so that it does not fall into the engine sump.

10. Unscrew the camshaft mounting nuts (10 pieces) and remove it.

11. Unscrew the brass nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and remove it along with the gasket.

12. Using a powerful wrench, unscrew the 10 bolts that tighten the cylinder head and the eleventh bolt installed on the head casting. Remove the head. It is quite heavy, so in order not to scratch the car, it is better to remove it from the block together.

Video about replacing the cylinder head on a VAZ

How to remove the head on a VAZ 2107

It's no secret that a well-repaired cylinder head is the key to stable, uninterrupted operation of the engine with maximum power output and normal fuel consumption, therefore repair of the VAZ cylinder head should be carried out with special attention, since any mistake can lead to damage to almost all engine parts and new expensive repairs.

Replacing the gasket

So, to do this job, we will need:

A 10 wrench, preferably a head with a wrench or ratchet A 13, 17 and 19 socket head Flat and Phillips screwdrivers Extensions Wrenches and ratchet handles A torque wrench is the main tool that is required to perform this job

Step-by-step guide with photos on replacing the head gasket

I’ll say right away that the photographs presented in this article show the process of completely removing the carburetor, intake and exhaust manifold. But in fact, you can do without removing all these nodes. You can completely dismantle the cylinder head with the carburetor and manifolds installed on it.

So, first read the instructions for removing the camshaft on a VAZ 2107. After that, unscrew the coolant supply pipes:

And after that we take it aside:

Also, do not forget to disconnect the wires from the oil pressure sensor:

We check that all hoses and pipes are disconnected so that nothing is damaged when removing the cylinder head. Then you can unscrew the bolts securing the head to the cylinder block, first we tear them off with a wrench, and then you can twist them with a ratchet to make things go faster:

After all the bolts are completely unscrewed, you can carefully lift the cylinder head:

And finally we remove it from the block, the result of which can be seen in the photo below:

Carefully inspect the surface of the head from the inside to understand why the gasket burned out and antifreeze passed between the joint (if such symptoms were present on your car). If there are traces of corrosion close to the channels, then this is not allowed and it is advisable to replace such a cylinder head. If the traces of corrosion are not very deep, then you can grind the surface of the head to even out the grooves over the entire area. Of course, after such a procedure it will be necessary to select a thicker gasket in order to maintain the compression ratio.

If everything is fine with the cylinder head and you just need to replace the gasket, then be sure to thoroughly clean its surface. I do this with a special spray for removing gaskets, which is applied for 10-15 minutes and then cleaned off with a brush.

After this, carefully wipe the surface dry, install a new gasket on the block so that it lies exactly along the guides and you can install the cylinder head. Next, you need to tighten the bolts in a strictly defined sequence:

It is also worth noting that this should only be done with a torque wrench. I personally use an Ombra ratchet. It is suitable for most work on domestic cars, and the torque varies in the range from 10 to 110 Nm.

As for the moment of force when tightening the cylinder head bolts on the VAZ 2101-2107, it is as follows:

first stage - tighten with a torque of 33-41 Nm; second (final) from 95 to 118 Nm.

The photo above does not show the assembly process itself, so please do not pay too much attention to the repair conditions. It just shows clearly how all this is done. Ideally, everything should be clean so that no debris gets into the engine.

How to remove

The cylinder head is removed from the engine of the car if, to eliminate the malfunction, it is not necessary to remove the VAZ 2105 engine itself or if it is only necessary to remove carbon deposits from the surfaces of the combustion chamber and valves. The cylinder head must be removed from the engine in the following order:

— drain the coolant from the radiator and cylinder block and remove the air filter;

— disconnect the wires from the battery, spark plugs and from the coolant temperature gauge sensor; disconnect the choke cable from the carburetor;

— using wrench 67.7812.9514, remove the spark plugs and coolant temperature sensor;

— disconnect the throttle drive rods from the intermediate lever on the cylinder head cover of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104 and remove the cover;

— turn the crankshaft of the Lada Classic until the mark on the pulley aligns with the long mark on the camshaft drive cover, and the marks on the camshaft sprocket align with the mark on the camshaft bearing housing;

— disconnect the hose from the fluid supply tube to the heater, and from the exhaust manifold - the bracket securing the fluid drain tube from the heater;

— disconnect the hoses from the carburetor, the intake pipe and from the outlet pipe of the cooling jacket of the VAZ 2107 cylinder head;

— disconnect the starter protective shield and the exhaust pipe of the mufflers from the exhaust manifold;

NOTE It is better to leave the exhaust manifold and intake manifold with carburetor on the head. They can be removed later when disassembling the cylinder head.

— loosen the cap nut of the chain tensioner, press out the tensioner rod with a mounting blade and secure it with the cap nut;

— remove the camshaft sprocket and bearing housing together with the camshaft;

— unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the block and remove the head of the VAZ 2104.

In order to reinstall and secure the head to the cylinder block, perform the described operations in reverse order, in this case:

- do not forget to install the cylinder head gasket and head cover gasket

Tightening diagram

It is necessary that all bolts are tightened as evenly as possible. To do this, they need to be pulled in two or three passes. During the first, the tightening torque of the VAZ 2107 cylinder head is 4 kgf*m. During the second pass, you need to set the moment to 11.5 kgf*m. The small bolt should be tightened to approximately 3.8. Installation of the camshaft is carried out in almost the same way; its fastenings will need to be tightened crosswise, but the moment here is not so important. The main thing is not to break the thread.

Cases when it is necessary to replace cylinder head gaskets

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ-2107 is mandatory in a number of cases:

1. If there is damage near the combustion chambers, engine overheating leads to this unpleasant situation. When the cooling system malfunctions, and the driver prefers not to pay attention to the malfunction and puts off repairs, the condition of the cylinder block and its head leaves much to be desired.
2. A leak of antifreeze or coolant is noticed - a breakdown is often accompanied by incorrect operation of the ventilation device, thermostat, or a banal leak of substance from the hoses.
3. There is an engine oil leak. If traces of oil leakage are noticed on the outside, it means the gasket is not fitting well. Tighten the head bolts, if this does not help, then you will have to replace the cylinder head gasket yourself.

Replacing the intake manifold gasket VAZ-2114 injector: video

Replacing the cylinder head gasket

Replacing the intake manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114 car, as well as replacing the exhaust manifold gasket, is a very complex procedure and requires certain knowledge and experience. Of course, you will have to do a colossal amount of work and spend a lot of time, but this will save 4-5 thousand rubles on replacement at a car service center.

Below he will talk about replacing the receiver and manifold. During the replacement process, the intake manifold gasket is also changed:

The material will tell you how to properly replace the intake manifold gasket, and will also tell you about some of the subtleties and nuances of the process.

Gasket replacement process

Design diagram of the intake and exhaust manifolds

Since the gasket is located on the manifold studs, to replace it the unit will have to be completely dismantled. Of course, this operation will take a lot of time and effort.

Before the car enthusiast proceeds directly to the replacement process, it is necessary to collect the tools that will be needed. So, the tools without which replacement is impossible: ratchet and sockets for 17, 19; screwdrivers with flat and Phillips tips; a set of keys and the gasket itself.

The tools are assembled, now you can go directly to performing all kinds of operations. Before removing the manifold, you need to spray the bolts with WD-40, which will remove corrosion and allow you to remove the part without any problems.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the intake manifold gasket (with photo)

Let's look at step-by-step instructions for replacing the gasket:

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We remove the throttle cable.
3. We are dismantling the fuel pipes. More precisely, they need to be disconnected and taken to the side. Remove the fuel pipes shown in the photo
4. Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector.
5. Disconnect the idle air control wire connector.
6. Unscrew the crankcase ventilation pipes and brake booster. Unscrew the pipes shown in the photo
7. We are dismantling the receiver.
8. Remove the wires of the injection control unit (injectors).
9. We dismantle the fuel rail without dismantling the injectors.
10. Remove the thermal shield from the manifold.
11. Disconnect the exhaust pipe. This is the quality of nuts installed at the factory. We dismantle the exhaust pipe.
12. Remove the exhaust manifold. Unscrew the fastening nuts and remove the exhaust manifold Removing the exhaust manifold
13. After unscrewing the fastening nuts, remove the intake manifold. Removing the intake manifold
14. We are replacing the gasket. We are replacing the gasket
15. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

As you can see, the replacement of the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets takes place simultaneously and, by and large, is the same gasket material.

Part selection

21083-1008081 – original catalog number of the gasket for the intake and exhaust manifold. It consists of two parts or, on newer models, one. This part is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. The average cost is 250 rubles per piece (if there are two of them) or 450 rubles (for a whole one).

One-piece manifold gasket A gasket that consists of two parts A one-piece gasket and one that consists of two parts together

In addition to the fact that there is an original part, you can also find a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Let's consider which gaskets can be installed under the VAZ-2114 manifolds:

• Trialli GZ 102 0013 is a well-known Russian manufacturer that produces a wide range of analog parts for domestically produced cars. The cost of the gasket is 200 rubles per piece.
• AJUSA 13065200 is another domestic manufacturer that has won consumers over the quality of its products. The cost of the product is 450 rubles.
• Ukrainian also produces and supplies this gasket. But, if you look at it, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, since the resource is designed for only 20,000 km.

Causes of malfunction

After we have considered the process of replacing and selecting a part, it is necessary to consider the main reasons for the failure of the spare part:

Wear

During operation, the car emits hot gases that destroy the surface of the gasket, as a result of which it can tear or delaminate. Since there is only one gasket for the intake and exhaust manifolds, gasoline entering through the first channel can get on the gasket, which also affects the integrity and structure of the material from which it is made.

The quality of the part is not always high, even original, so when choosing, you should pay special attention to this. Bent valves due to irregular valve timing do not threaten the 8-valve valve

Assembly

Pay attention to such a moment as tightening the cylinder head. A lot will depend on this operation. If you do not apply force, the gasket will burn out and the engine may boil. Therefore, experts recommend using a torque wrench (see figure below).

The bolts are tightened according to a special pattern - from the middle to the edges. The first tightening force is 4.1 kgf per meter. The second one is 11.45. This applies to ten large bolts. What about the little one, 11th? Here the tightening rate is 3.8 kgf/m. If your key is designed for Nm, the first tightening requires a value of 40 units. The second is produced with a force from 95 to 117 Nm. After replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ-2107 car, you need to install the camshaft and split gear back. It is important to adjust the timing drive. Yes, on an 8-valve engine the pistons will not come into contact with the “plates”. However, there will be significant misfires (to the point where the engine simply won’t start). At this point, the replacement of the VAZ-2107 cylinder head gasket has been successfully completed. You can make the first start and check the operation of the motor. Don't forget to pour antifreeze into the system.

Installing and removing the cylinder head of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104, Lada Zhiguli, Classic

The cylinder head is removed from the engine of the car if, to eliminate the malfunction, it is not necessary to remove the VAZ 2105 engine itself or if it is only necessary to remove carbon deposits from the surfaces of the combustion chamber and valves. The cylinder head must be removed from the engine in the following order:

— drain the coolant from the radiator and cylinder block and remove the air filter; — disconnect the wires from the battery, spark plugs and from the coolant temperature gauge sensor; disconnect the choke cable from the carburetor; — using wrench 67.7812.9514, remove the spark plugs and coolant temperature sensor; — disconnect the throttle drive rods from the intermediate lever on the cylinder head cover of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104 and remove the cover;

Checking the alignment of the installation mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the bearing housing: 1 — mark on the sprocket; 2 - mark on the bearing housing

Ignition distributor 0.3706: 1 — ignition distributor shaft; 2 — wire for supplying current to the ignition distributor; 3 — cover fastening latch; 4 — vacuum regulator housing; 5 - diaphragm; 6 — vacuum regulator cover; 7 — vacuum regulator rod; 8 — pipe for the vacuum hose from the carburetor; 9 — lubricating wick (filt) of the cam; 10 — support (driven) plate of the ignition timing regulator; 11 — ignition distributor rotor; 12 — side electrode with a terminal for the wire to the spark plug; 13 — ignition distributor cover; 14 — central terminal for the wire from the ignition coil; 15 — central carbon electrode with a spring; 16 — central contact of the rotor; 17 - resistor for suppressing radio interference; 18 — external contact of the rotor; 19 — driving plate of the centrifugal regulator; 20 — weight of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator; 21 — lever axis; 22 — breaker cam; 23 — breaker lever; 24 — stand with breaker contacts; 25 — breaker contacts; 26 — movable breaker plate; 27 - capacitor; 28 — ignition distributor housing; 29 — roller oil deflector clutch; 30 — bearing locking plate; 31 — bearing of the movable plate of the breaker; 32 — oiler body; 33 — screws for fastening the rack with breaker contacts; 34 — terminal clamp screw; a — groove for distinguishing ignition distributors 30.3706; b - groove for moving the stand with contacts Fig. 8–22. Ignition distributor 0.3706: 1 — ignition distributor shaft; 2 — wire for supplying current to the ignition distributor; 3 — cover fastening latch; 4 — vacuum regulator housing; 5 - diaphragm; 6 — vacuum regulator cover; 7 — vacuum regulator rod; 8 — pipe for the vacuum hose from the carburetor; 9 — lubricating wick (filt) of the cam; 10 — support (driven) plate of the ignition timing regulator; 11 — ignition distributor rotor; 12 — side electrode with a terminal for the wire to the spark plug; 13 — ignition distributor cover; 14 — central terminal for the wire from the ignition coil; 15 — central carbon electrode with a spring; 16 — central contact of the rotor; 17 - resistor for suppressing radio interference; 18 — external contact of the rotor; 19 — driving plate of the centrifugal regulator; 20 — weight of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator; 21 — lever axis; 22 — breaker cam; 23 — breaker lever; 24 — stand with breaker contacts; 25 — breaker contacts; 26 — movable breaker plate; 27 - capacitor; 28 — ignition distributor housing; 29 — roller oil deflector clutch; 30 — bearing lock plate; 31 — bearing of the movable plate of the breaker; 32 — oiler body; 33 — screws for fastening the rack with breaker contacts; 34 — terminal clamp screw; a — groove for distinguishing ignition distributors 30.3706; b - groove for moving the stand with contacts

— turn the crankshaft of the Lada Classic until the mark on the pulley aligns with the long mark on the camshaft drive cover, and the marks on the camshaft sprocket align with the mark on the camshaft bearing housing; — disconnect the hose from the fluid supply tube to the heater, and from the exhaust manifold - the bracket securing the fluid drain tube from the heater; — disconnect the hoses from the carburetor, the intake pipe and from the outlet pipe of the cooling jacket of the VAZ 2107 cylinder head; — disconnect the starter protective shield and the exhaust pipe of the mufflers from the exhaust manifold;

NOTE It is better to leave the exhaust manifold and intake manifold with carburetor on the head. They can be removed later when disassembling the cylinder head.

— loosen the cap nut of the chain tensioner, press out the tensioner rod with a mounting blade and secure it with the cap nut; — remove the camshaft sprocket and bearing housing together with the camshaft; - Unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the block and remove the head of the VAZ 2104. In order to reinstall and secure the head on the cylinder block, carry out the described operations in the reverse order, in this case: - do not forget to install the cylinder head gasket and the head cover gasket;

Cylinder head bolt tightening order

Procedure for tightening the camshaft bearing housing nuts

— tighten the classic fret head bolts in sequence, and the camshaft bearing housing stud nuts in sequence.

Tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in two steps:

— preliminary torque 33.3–41.16 N·m (3.4–4.2 kgf·m) bolts 1–10; — final torque 95.94–118.38 Nm (9.79–12.08 kgf m) bolts 1–10 and torque 30.67–39.1 N.m (3.13–3.99 kgf .m) bolt 11.

When installing the chain, pay attention to the alignment of the installation marks. Tension the chain as indicated in the “Camshaft and its drive” subsection. When installing the cylinder head cover with a gasket, tighten the cover fastening nuts to a torque of no more than 7.85 N.m (0.8 kgf.m) so as not to cause the gasket to rupture along the mounting holes and warp the cover. When repairing a VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 engine, it is recommended to replace the cover gasket with a new one. After installing the cylinder head of a VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107, check and adjust the ignition timing.

Start of work

The very first step is to remove the air filter. Of course, on a carburetor engine it is somewhat easier to remove it. If you have an injector, you will have to tinker with its rubber fasteners. But the essence remains the same - it is necessary to disassemble the fuel system completely to get to the cylinder head. But we will look at the example of not an injection, but a carburetor seven. Still, there are many more classic cars with such a power system.

It is advisable to dismantle the carburetor, since if you remove the head along with it, you can accidentally damage it. On all classic series cars, the carburetor is removed in the same way. This procedure is quite simple, but it will take some time. Now you can unscrew the nut securing the distributor and remove the distributor along with the wires. Getting closer to the engine, all that’s left to do is drain the antifreeze from the system.

And then turn off all the pipes that you see. After this, it will be possible to dismantle the cylinder head cover. It is secured with nuts and shaped washers. Don't lose them during repairs. That's all, the preparation is complete, you can begin the most difficult part - dismantling and installing the cylinder head.

How to adjust the tightening torque of VAZ 2109 bolts

Cylinder head repair

Replacing the VAZ cylinder head gasket If it is necessary to tighten the cylinder head of a Nine engine, it is important to observe not only the strength and degree of tightening of the bolts, but also other conditions. Below we will look at how to correctly stretch the cylinder head on a VAZ 2109

What will you need?

The procedure for tightening fasteners after removal and repair, as well as when installing the cylinder head, is carried out exclusively with a torque wrench.

In addition to the key, you will also need a caliper or a regular ruler.

User Marat Ibatullin made a video in which he clearly showed how the task of tightening the screws is performed.

Scheme of work

The order of tightening the bolts on cars with an injector or carburetor engine is determined by the manufacturer and is indicated in the service book for the car. According to the diagram, the pulling procedure begins with the central two cylinder head bolts.

The cylinder head bolts must be tightened as follows:

1. First, you need to twist the screws with a force in Newtons of 2.0 kg/cm.
2. Then the bolts are tightened to a torque of 7.5-8.5 kg/cm.
3. After this, all screws must be tightened 90 degrees.
4. At the end, each bolt is rotated 90 degrees again.

How to tighten the head screws of a VAZ 2109 block with your own hands:

1. The torque wrench holder is placed in the zero position. This indicates that the instrument data corresponds to the moment of the initial position.
2. Evaluate the indicators on the key before starting the tightening procedure.
3. The tool holder can now be rotated. Monitor the readings as you complete the task.
4. If it happens that the torque does not change during tightening, then the head mount may be stretched. This is quite normal, as it should be. First, use a wrench to tighten the screws to 2 kg/cm. Follow the tension sequence shown in the diagram.
5. At the next stage, the covering is performed again in the same sequence. Only now the bolts need to be pulled to approximately 8 kg/cm.
6. At the end of the procedure, the screws must be tightened once 90 degrees in a circle, and then again 90 degrees.

Channel RUS13 in its video showed how to install the cylinder head on a VAZ 2109 engine and tighten the bolts.

Tightening rules

What nuances should be taken into account when carrying out this procedure:

Observe the appropriate tightening torque for the VAZ 2109 cylinder head. The use of wrenches and other tools is not allowed, since the degree of tension can only be determined using a dynamometer. To perform tensioning, only working screws are allowed. The bolts must meet the requirements of the power unit installed on the machine. Before completing the task, make sure that the holders are in good working order. If the cylinder head has been replaced or repaired, then the old bolts cannot be used for tension; new ones must be purchased. On sixteen-valve power units, it is allowed to re-use screws to fix the block head, but only if the length of the parts is no more than 9.5 cm. It is necessary to measure the length of the screw only with a washer. If the bolts are larger than 9.5 cm, they must be replaced. If the vehicle is equipped with an aluminum head, then the cylinder head is fixed with TTU type screws

They cannot be tightened because they are screwed into a thread with a certain degree

When purchasing a cylinder head gasket, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer's specifications. They often prescribe a certain tightening ratio required for specific gaskets.

Please note that the indicated moment of force should not diverge much from the one applied during the work process. In power units equipped with aluminum cylinder heads, the tightening procedure is carried out on a cold engine. As for cast iron engines, in such internal combustion engines it is necessary to perform the tightening while it is hot.

Which cylinder head gasket is the best?

The sealing gasket serves to strengthen the engine cooling channels and well preserves the oil channels in the cylinders that have the gas distribution function. Therefore, it is not worth saving on the cylinder head gasket. If the part is of poor quality, a breakthrough may occur between the cooling system channel and the drainage channels of the lubrication system. There is a breakthrough located at the junction of the cooling system channel and the cylinder.

By the way, the same thing happens when the cylinder head is loosely tightened, but in any case the gasket will have to be changed.

Automotive stores sell the following types of cylinder head gaskets intended for installation in the VAZ-2107:

1. Asbestos - involves associated engine repairs. The advantages of the material are heat resistance, increased elasticity, and good elasticity characteristics.
2. Non-asbestos products are also easy to use, and all thanks to minimal shrinkage and excellent restorative properties.
3. Metal ones are considered the best among all other cylinder head seals. The point is that the pressure is distributed evenly throughout the block.

A video of how to replace the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ-2107 with your own hands can be seen below:

Step-by-step guide to replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ-2107

To replace the cylinder head gasket in a VAZ-2107, you should perform the following manipulations:

1. The initial stage involves dismantling the filter that filters the incoming air flows. If the VAZ-2107 is equipped with a carburetor, this is easier to do than performing the same work with an injector. Your task is to unscrew and disassemble all the parts of the entire system; this is the only way to get to the cylinder head.
2. Remove the carburetor.
3. Unscrew absolutely all pipes that remain visible.
4. Get rid of the cylinder head cover by disconnecting the fasteners. Put the nuts and clamps aside, do not lose them, otherwise you will not be able to assemble the mechanism into a single whole.
5. Place a container under the hose and carefully drain the remaining coolant in the car.
6. Protect your health from electrical current by removing the battery.
7. Place the ignition distributor cap aside.
8. Pull out the hoses from the carburetor - one responsible for heating, and the second coming from the vacuum format regulator, which distributes the ignition.
9. Remove the air collector and remove the throttle linkage.
10. With your own hands, remove the sensor that controls the temperature regime from the cylinder head of the VAZ-2107.
11. Connect the indicators on the camshaft drive sprocket with the markings located on the camshaft bearing housing. This simple technique will avoid re-installation of the distribution phase at the time of assembly.
12. Next, bend the edges of the sprocket fixing washer in different directions and unscrew the bolt. Let the star remain in its place.
13. Loosen the tensioner nut half a turn and use a screwdriver to press out the shoe. As the chain loosens, tighten the fasteners again.
14. All that remains is to disconnect the bolt holding the sprocket and remove it. To prevent the timing chain from falling, support it with a soft wire.
15. Remove the housing base from the bearing located on the camshaft and disconnect the nuts of the VAZ-2107 cylinder head.
16. When the head cover comes off easily, position the new gasket.
17. Assemble the components into a single whole, following the reverse order of the proposed instructions.
18. Correct valve operation.