Signal and central locking, VAZ-2110
This review discusses how to connect an alarm system to the central locking of the following cars: VAZ-21099, as well as 2110 and 2115. There are three standard connection schemes: for central locking controlled by negative polarity, positive and variable. But different cars have their own nuances. Sometimes it is necessary to add a fuse to the “+12 Volt” wire, sometimes, on the contrary, this is not required. VAZ locks, in turn, belong to the simplest type, the first. But the standard scheme published on the Internet is not suitable for them.
Features of the VAZ central lock
Everyone knows that the Lada models listed here use central locking controlled by negative polarity. This literally means the following: we apply “0 Volt” to one wire - all locks close. We apply the same voltage to the other wire (second) - they unlock. This is done in many European cars. What does it mean to “supply “0 Volt”? This means connecting the wire to ground.
The central locking control unit has the following wiring:
Let's look at the central locking connection diagram, which is implemented “from the factory”:
First, we may decide that the triangular connector (labeled “C”) is suitable for our purposes, since it contains control contacts. But please note that the standard circuit uses a microswitch located in the driver's door. We will break two wires coming from this switch, and the relays built into the alarm unit will be connected to the breaks. Other options are excluded.
Let's make the alarm system and central locking together
Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:
In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.
Connection diagram for VAZ central locker
Take another look at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.
To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:
The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.
An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:
We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.
Remember that installation is performed by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.
An interesting nuance from practice
It would seem that if a person has experience working with electrical equipment, he can do everything according to the instructions given. As a result, if no mistakes are made, you may encounter an interesting phenomenon. Instead of closing, there will be a short-term locking followed by opening. And vice versa. What to do in this case?
Take a look at what exactly may be present in some of the configurations:
The driver's door may not have an actuator. And then, it is useless to connect the signaling system to the control unit. There is no actuator, which means there is no one to close or open the door and move the microphone lever. Let's say the locks are closed, and then we remove ground from the brown wire and we get the following: the white wire is on ground, unlocking occurs.
We note the following: installation can only be carried out when you are sure that there is an actuator in the driver's door.
There were configurations where only a microswitch was installed. There is no need for arrogance here - adding an actuator will be difficult, since standard wiring must go to it. As you understand, it may not be available from the factory. And it’s unclear what to do then.
There remains one unanswered question - where exactly the central locking control unit is located. In these VAZ models, if there is a central locking system, then there is also a control unit. And it is located under the torpedo cover, next to the driver, on the right:
Installing a block for automatic engine start
The device is assembled. The wires are signed. I also insulated everything and signed all the wires. I like order in everything, and I advise you to do the same.
In the car, I first removed one terminal from the battery so as not to get hurt myself and only then got into the wiring.
I connected the wires of our device to the engine starting system block. First, I took out the car alarm unit and identified the wires from the additional channels, and also figured out the sensors and door locks. I have a blue wire going to the handbrake. I didn’t capture the process itself on camera, but I think everything is clear here.
As a result, everything is connected perfectly for me.
I only have one green wire left free. You can stick it anywhere. I even thought about putting it on the radio. I imagined how I find my car in the dark by the sounds of my favorite radio wave - I smiled. Otherwise, it can be placed on headlights or side lights - it’s more convenient to look for. I haven't decided yet.
Having removed the steering casing, I hid the remote start unit there - it fit! That's the whole installation!
Using autorun in practice
I launched it from home. Here's my procedure:
- The VAZ 2109 stove does not work: reasons, what fuse
- Disarmed.
- I start the fuel pump - this is my first additional channel. Be careful not to get confused!
- I block the doors.
- I'm starting the starter. The first time I didn't have enough 3 seconds for the engine to start, so I pressed the button twice.
- The engine started up and began to purr, making me happy.
- I go to the car and remove the lock from the key fob.
- I get into the car, insert the key into the ignition, turn it one notch.
- I take the handbrake off and listen to my car stall (the car thieves won’t be able to get away - it’s a trick).
- You can go.
If you change your mind or decide to reschedule the trip, go to the car, take the handbrake off and turn it off. (Although, as an option, you can install an additional relay for this purpose - a simple matter).
So, I have outlined everything, I hope it is accessible and understandable. This is my first master class, so I accept all comments, take into account wishes, and accept praise!
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Unfortunately, most budget-class alarm systems are not equipped with a remote car start function (the so-called autostart), however, the traditional presence in such systems of free additional channels allows, with little effort and money, to implement this opportunity on cars of any brand and, in any case, , on a VAZ 2110.
In order to provide remote start of the VAZ 2110 you will need:
- Alarm system with feedback already installed on the car and equipped with a key fob with at least two additional buttons (for example, for panic mode and opening the trunk);
- Four-contact relays in the amount of four pieces;
- Connection blocks for connecting relays;
- Insulating casings, electrical tape, and a soldering iron with all the necessary consumables.
Practical implementation of the autostart scheme
Below is a schematic electrical diagram of autostart with color-coded wires for almost all variants of the VAZ 2110 car (to be on the safe side, you can conduct a comparative analysis with the wiring diagram of your particular type of car).
In order to implement the circuit in hardware, first of all we fasten the pads in one row using electrical tape, after which, if the pads have more than 4 contacts, we remove the extra wires from them (this way there is less chance of mixing something up). Also, in order to make our device more compact, the wires of the pads can be shortened somewhat. Next, we carry out soldering in strict accordance with the diagram, protecting the joints with cambrics and insulating tape.
As mentioned above, this device is designed to work with standard feedback signaling having two additional channels.
There are usually no problems with having at least one free channel, but to use the second channel you often have to limit yourself in some way (say, refuse to open the trunk remotely). The first and second relays are connected to the indicated second and first channels, respectively. We connect the fourth relay to the handbrake limit switch - on a VAZ 2110 this is most conveniently done on the universal connection block of the instrument cluster. This relay is designed to prevent relays No. 2 and No. 3 from turning off after the first alarm channel opens (on some alarm systems this happens in less than three seconds, which is clearly not enough). Relay No. 2 supplies +12V voltage from the ignition switch (thick pink wire) to the power circuit of the electric pump and to turn on the instrument cluster.
As for relay No. 3 (with a green wire coming from it), then, at your discretion, it can be connected to the headlights or dimensions. This solution will make it easier to find a car in the dark and will confirm from a distance that the device has been activated.
And finally, relay No. 1 plays an important role in starting the starter. It is this relay that supplies current to the starter after the second alarm channel circuit is closed.
For ease of placement in a car, the assembled device is placed in a case of a suitable size, or, without further ado, all four relays can be connected to each other with ordinary electrical tape (the main thing is not to forget to clearly mark the output terminals). At the next stage, all the above wires are connected (after first disconnecting the power wires from the battery). The additional unit itself is located behind the dashboard or in the free space of the steering casing.
Automatic startup sequence (using the Tomahawk alarm as an example)
- We disarm the car;
- Using the button of the first additional channel, we start the fuel pump;
- Using the control button for the second additional channel, we start the engine (if the pause in the channel is too short, try again).
Please note that without installing the car on the handbrake, the car will not start remotely (and therefore will not move without a driver in the cabin). According to the logic of the operation of some security systems, after removing the handbrake, the car may stall. You shouldn’t be afraid of such situations - this is just another step of protection from intruders (as a rule, to avoid turning off the engine, before removing the handbrake, you should insert the key into the lock and turn it one notch).
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Where is the alarm unit located?
The block of the anti-theft complex can be located anywhere in the car, because when installing a security system, installers are guided by the rule: the block is placed in a place inaccessible to intruders, otherwise the anti-theft system will not be able to perform its function.
Locate car alarms in typical locations where they are most often installed by professionals. The alarm is usually installed and placed inside the cabin.
To find an alarm in your car, it is recommended that you first look under the dashboard. Automakers often leave enough space underneath to install additional equipment. This installation method is also convenient because power is supplied to the dashboard from the battery.
In some cases, the alarm unit is installed under the inner trim of the driver's door. You can also find the unit under the front passenger door interior panel. You can look under the panel located near the handbrake. Installers rarely install an anti-theft system near the clutch, since this mechanism operates quite often and can damage the anti-theft wires. For the same reasons, the anti-theft system unit is rarely installed in the engine compartment.
You can look for the block under the driver's seat. This installation location is sometimes chosen by motorists who install anti-theft devices themselves. Professional installers will not install the unit in such a place.
If the car is equipped with standard anti-theft electronics, the location of its installation is described in the car's operating instructions.
What does it look like
The power supply can have a very different appearance. In most cases, it looks like a small rectangular box made of black plastic with a lot of wires attached to it.
What's what or how it works
I take the Tomahawk 7000 - this is my alarm system. I have two additional channels on it. One of the channels is free and intended for any use. This is stated directly in the instructions. In general, it has feedback and two additional channels activated from the key fob.
One more thing. I hope that everyone remembers and understands that the alarm will only give us a “minus”. It will not be able to supply electrical voltage to the relay.
We enable the rightmost relay to prevent the next two relays in the middle from tripping when the auxiliary alarm channel opens.
So, we start working with relay 2, which is located on the edge. I connected it to the end of the handbrake, connecting it to the electrical connector that fits into the instrument cluster. We close our chain. At this point, the middle relay begins transferring power from the thick red wire. It is supplied from there to the instrument cluster and the fuel pump wire.
The automatic start unit must be connected to the ignition switch connector. Since there are 8 wires, 3 of which are thick, we connect to them.
The leftmost relay will turn on the starter. We close the second channel of the car alarm. The pleasant roar of the engine is our relay that helps supply electric current to the starter.
- VAZ 2115 starter relay - where is the VAZ 2115 starter relay located
The second middle relay with an outgoing green wire can be connected to the headlights or parking lights to make it easier to search for the car at night. I haven’t decided where to connect it yet, so I left it just like that.
Important point! It is necessary to install a program neutral sensor for those who have a car alarm with an automatic engine start function, otherwise your car will drive away on autopilot!
Who can you trust to install an anti-theft device?
There are the following options for installing an alarm on a VAZ 2110:
When installing this security system yourself, you must have certain knowledge and skills in the field of electronics and car design. The same requirements apply to friends, colleagues and acquaintances involved in these technological operations. The most successful option would be to shell out 2 – 2.5 thousand rubles and contact specialists in order to avoid failure or incorrect installation of fairly expensive equipment.
Some technical features of choosing a car alarm for a VAZ 2110
The anti-theft device must be selected with power outputs for direction indicators, repeaters and side light indicators. Such outputs are not suitable for low currents; there is a high probability of wiring burnout. If the system is structurally equipped with one power wire, then we select the side lights as the alarm indicator; if there are two wires, we connect the turn indicators and their repeaters on the wings. Such a security device must also have power outputs for the door locks. A pulse value of 0.8 s is sufficient for a VAZ 2110. A good car alarm for a VAZ 2110, a photo of which is posted on our website, should have different buttons for turning on and off the “anti-theft”; it is recommended to select a system with a dynamically changing radio pulse code, which negates the scanning recording the code of car opening by car thieves. We choose an ordinary, autonomous type of sound siren; for security alarm systems with reverse scanning, an isolated monotone siren with a power of 20 W is required.
LCD key fob for car alarm StarLine
Tools required to install a car alarm on a VAZ 2110
These tools include:
Selecting a location for installing a security device
During this procedure, fulfill the following conditions:
car alarm control unit
We believe that it is better to secure the control unit behind the instrument panel, having previously covered it with foam rubber cloth and leave open spaces for connectors for connection.
Additional features of the SOBR anti-theft system
A smart car alarm system will inform you about the car's status at any time. If your phone or smartphone is connected to the anti-theft system, when the battery discharges below 11 Volts, it will notify you to connect to power.
Also, if the battery charge in the key fob is low, you will receive an SMS message indicating a decrease in battery life. When you connect the microphone function, you can listen to what is going on in the car or outside, so you can safely go to the store and leave the children in the car.
Using your phone, you can unlock the door on a VAZ 2110 or 2112, if, for example, you forgot the key fob in the apartment, this way you can start the engine. If you come to visit in winter and the car remains outside, by sending an SMS to the system with an engine warm-up timer, you can sleep peacefully, since the car will warm up at the time you set. If you don't have a phone, you can receive Internet links about the location of your vehicle.
By installing your PIN code on the system, you can check the status and location of the car at any time from another phone number when you enter it. If you have installed such a multifunctional system for the first time, it will be able to help you in control thanks to voice prompts that will indicate when and which buttons to press.
Design and principle of operation
The alarm control unit is the central element in the entire anti-theft system, interacting between all sensors and anti-theft subsystems. A control unit was built based on a central microprocessor that receives signals from sensors and control panels, processes information from them and makes decisions on further actions according to a pre-programmed algorithm of actions.
When installing an anti-theft system, security sensors are built into different parts of the car that detect vibrations, impacts and other external influences on the car. When information about an unusual situation is received from such sensors, an electronic signal is transmitted to the control unit. After processing this signal, the central processor turns on a sound and light alert about an attempted theft, transmits information to the control panel, and blocks those locks that were not closed at the time of operation.
When a coded signal is received from the remote control, the central processor can turn the car's security mode on or off, while locking or unlocking the car's doors and trunk.
The alarm control unit is equipped with a permanent storage device - a hard disk memory that can store information even in the absence of power. This is necessary so that in any situation all the standard settings and codes that are needed to disarm the car and arm it are saved.
Typical problems and their solutions
Electronic anti-theft systems of a car are subject to breakdowns and various types of malfunctions. In some cases, technical problems that arise can be resolved independently.
First of all, due to incorrect placement of additional shock and volume sensors, they may malfunction, and the alarm will go off without obvious reasons. An alarm that constantly goes off when the car owner is absent for a long time can completely discharge the battery and deprive the owner of the opportunity to start the engine. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to check the correct placement and connection of the shock and volume sensors and, if necessary, reconnect them in accordance with the rules. Replace faulty sensors.
The alarm may not work correctly due to a large amount of interference interfering with the operation of the remote control. There are several solutions to solve this problem:
If the anti-theft system does not respond to commands from the remote control, you should start troubleshooting the possible problem with the key fob. If commands from the key fob are well received up close, but do not work from a long distance, it means that the internal battery on the remote control has run out. You can replace it yourself.
Many remote controls have a battery charge indicator. If there is no such indicator, it is recommended to start fixing the problem by replacing the battery or charging the key fob.
If the remote control does not function with a fully charged battery, you need to check the alarm operation using a spare remote control. It is possible that the remote control itself is faulty. If the spare key fob controls the anti-theft system well, then it is recommended to replace the main one.
In cases where independent actions do not help to establish the operation of the anti-theft system, it is recommended to contact the service department.
This review discusses how to connect an alarm system to the central locking of the following cars: VAZ-21099, as well as 2110 and 2115. There are three standard connection schemes: for central locking controlled by negative polarity, positive and variable. But different cars have their own nuances. Sometimes it is necessary to add a fuse to the “+12 Volt” wire, sometimes, on the contrary, this is not required. VAZ locks, in turn, belong to the simplest type, the first. But the standard scheme published on the Internet is not suitable for them.
Selection of diagnostic equipment
VAZ car owners should pay attention to devices designed to test VAG Group vehicles (48 automobile manufacturing enterprises producing branded cars in 21 countries around the world). In an effort to enter the world market, VAZ developers focused on electronic units with the logic for constructing tires from the VAG concern. The scanner must support the required protocol. Vehicles manufactured before 2007 are checked using the K-Line bus. New cars operate via a CAN bus; the K-Line bus is not provided on the connector.
ELM 327
The leader in popularity is the ELM 327 adapter with firmware version 1.5, wired (USB), wireless (WI-FI, Bluetooth). Wired communication works more stable, a working scanner reads information the first time. It is advisable to choose a device built on an original chip (the main chip is indicated in the description). Supports 5 test protocols for passenger cars equipped with injectors manufactured after 1996.
- reads, clears errors, turns off the Check Engine light,
- displays parameters of the engine, fuel system, valve position in real time,
- saves data in files of different formats, prints them out,
- Comes with disk media containing free diagnostic programs.
An addition is an adapter that allows you to connect an OBD2 scanner to the GM12 interface. There are several options for resolving this issue.
The Internet offers various connection methods that may have been used previously. The provided version of the scheme is guaranteed to work.
Successful connection of the test device allows the test to begin. The adapter user manual is included on electronic media.
- You must first prepare a computer and smartphone.
- Download and install programs.
- Connect the adapter (wired USB option).
- Turn on the power with the ignition key.
- Launch the program, select the type of diagnostics.
- Follow the instructions for the program. Codes of detected errors are deciphered using tables attached to the program and found on the Internet.
Software developed for diagnostic equipment can be paid, shareware (the commercial version contains more functions), or free. The first is supplied to specialized service centers and service stations. Contains the ability to control and change operating modes of the engine, components, and mechanisms. The other two are suitable for ordinary car owners, making it possible to maintain the performance of the vehicle.
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Selecting a security alarm for installation on a domestic car
The function of remotely closing and unlocking all car doors is mandatory for all types of modern anti-theft alarms. It is impossible to install an alarm without a central lock, so car owners are forced to install a central lock before purchasing a security system.
The trade offers motorists hundreds of models of anti-theft alarms in a wide price and functional range.
When choosing a car alarm for installation on domestic cars, the main selection criteria for car owners are:
Owners of VAZ-made models do not need to worry about the difficulties of flashing factory protections or bypassing standard immobilizers. However, experts do not recommend that novice car tuning enthusiasts begin work by independently installing security systems equipped with:
If you want to install a full set of security options on a VAZ model, you will have to contact a specialized service, where they can install additional equipment.
The easiest way to install a simple car alarm with a minimum set of functions on your own.
On sale you will find dozens of simple anti-theft car alarms that are available for self-installation on VAZ models; all you have to do is choose the ones that are suitable for the price and set of functions.
Features of the VAZ central lock
Everyone knows that the Lada models listed here use central locking controlled by negative polarity. This literally means the following: we apply “0 Volt” to one wire - all locks close. We apply the same voltage to the other wire (second) - they unlock. This is done in many European cars. What does it mean to “supply “0 Volt”? This means connecting the wire to ground.
The central locking control unit has the following wiring:
Let's look at the central locking connection diagram, which is implemented “from the factory”:
First, we may decide that the triangular connector (labeled “C”) is suitable for our purposes, since it contains control contacts. But please note that the standard circuit uses a microswitch located in the driver's door. We will break two wires coming from this switch, and the relays built into the alarm unit will be connected to the breaks. Other options are excluded.
Practical connection operations
To install a car anti-theft alarm you will need simple tools and materials:
- screwdrivers, wrenches (special pullers are not needed to dismantle interior elements of VAZ models);
- soldering iron and soldering accessories (solder, acid);
- multi-colored single-core cables (selected according to the colors of the standard electrical wiring or the pinout of a specific electrical circuit);
- linear meters and multimeter;
- insulating materials;
- fastening elements (special plastic clips are preferred).
The easiest way to find the central locking control unit is when installing the main car alarm control unit. For example, on the VAZ 2110 it is located rather inconveniently.
Most often, for the convenience of installing alarm elements, you have to completely disassemble the dashboard, door cards, remove the trunk upholstery, and disassemble electrical devices of lighting systems.
During installation, it is convenient to use wires of the same colors as those coming from the central locking control unit.
Having disassembled the door card, you can connect the control wires directly to the electric drive of the lock.
It depends on the car alarm model whether you need to purchase additional relays. Sometimes standard fuses and power switches may not withstand the additional load.
The easiest way to connect a car alarm to the central locks of VAZ models is to solder into the wire breaks (usually white and brown). To do this, you need to lay a four-wire cable from the two internal relays of the alarm unit to the eight-pin connector for controlling the door microswitches.
To avoid oxidation and damage to the integrity of the wires (this leads to false alarms), you must follow simple rules:
- carry out electrical installation work with the battery disconnected;
- connect electrical wiring only by soldering or terminals, insulate connections;
- use cables with a small margin in length, lay them in bundles, and securely fasten them to body elements;
- Observe the color of the cables for easy identification during alterations or repairs.
After completing the electrical installation work, do not rush to reinstall the removed parts. The final assembly of interior elements, doors, trim is carried out only after installing all elements of the anti-theft alarm system, making adjustments, and checking the functionality of the security system.
You can see in detail how to connect the alarm system to the central locking on a VAZ 2110 in the video:
Lock connection diagram
Having a power outlet equipped with a fuse, these cables are connected directly to the alarm relay. We would be lying if we did not say that in reality there is another option for installing the alarm.
The approximate price for a regular central locking activator with 2 terminals, a two-wire electric lock, is RUB.
For each door, repeat the steps VAZ central locking To better understand the idea of connecting an alarm, it is still worth studying the instructions included with it.
Personal experience is described here, so you always have the opportunity to do something better, more beautiful, more convenient, and so on. So, in the diagram, the index X2 indicates the six-pin control connector of the BUBD, which was mentioned at the beginning.
You can see the VAZ central locking diagram in the picture. The central locking functions operate remotely at a distance of up to 10 meters. Single-wire central lock control circuit. Let's look at how to connect the central locking, as well as installing a simple remote control. It will cost more, but it turns out to be 3 in one: door locking, connection of a security alarm and automatic raising of lowered windows.
Work execution algorithm
Now in great detail about installing autorun.
First, I eradicated the yellow (located in the center) wire from the purchased pads. We don't need him at all. It turned out that there is now an equal number of wires on the relay and on the blocks.
Secondly, I wound 4 pads one after another with insulating tape, so they can be cleverly soldered.
Thirdly, the wires of the pads were reduced by 60%, again, soldering is very convenient, and the appearance of the device has become prettier.
- VAZ 2107 starter relay: purpose, malfunctions and repairs
Let's make the alarm system and central locking together
Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:
In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.
Connection diagram for VAZ central locker
Take another look at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.
To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:
The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.
An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:
We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.
Remember that installation is performed by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.
Enabling and disabling APS-4
The immobilizer, even if it is activated, does not interfere with the operation of any car alarm that you decide to connect additionally. The only thing is that autostart will be impossible with it. It is possible to install a crawler or activate the Valet mode. But in the second case, the engine can be started with a blank, and in the first case, you will need to hack the alarm system.
Shutdown procedure
Of course, here we are looking at how Valet mode is turned on. It will be easy to use:
A sequence is considered that allows you to programmatically disable the APS unit. For the Bosch MP7 controller, step 9 looks different.
Now it will be said exactly how.
Imagine that step "9" is replaced by the following three:
Using this sequence, the Valet mode is installed in those cars where the MP-7 ECU controller is used. VAZ cars with this controller are not uncommon. By the way, the statement almost does not apply to the 2110 family: the “Ten” was more often equipped with a domestic ECU unit.
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