VAZ 2114 power windows do not work

VAZ 2114. Why don't the power windows work?

The fuse and relay are ok, what should I do?
The fact is that after checking the relay and fuse, you forgot that external lighting is also involved in the power supply of the ESP. Personally, I had such a problem, I checked the fuse, relay, removed the door trim and checked the entire circuit. At the service station, the repair took 5 minutes, it turned out that the fog lights, which I don’t have, were burnt out.

2-button power window of the right front door.

3-motor (motor-reducer) for the window lifter of the right front door.

4-motor (geared motor) glass lift of the left front door.

5-button power window of the left front door.

To 5 window relays,

A - to the power source,

In-to the external lighting switch

Of course, the window regulators may not work if something just fell off. Yes, while driving, it also happens that a bolt comes out somewhere. After all, our roads do not really meet the standards. And even more so, if you have electric windows, then the contact may simply fall off. So the reason will have to be found out. And you just need to start by checking whether voltage is supplied to the motor, which raises the windows.

Well, then you’ll have to disassemble the lifting mechanism and see how it works and whether anything got in there.

And only after this is it necessary to check the motor itself. Since it can simply fail.

If the window regulators do not work, both at once, then the motors simply could not burn out and only the fuses of all other circuits and, first of all, the lighting are to blame. Check them and the problem will probably be fixed.

VAZ 2114 can be equipped with either conventional manual (mechanical) window lifters or electric windows.

If we are talking about electric windows, then as a rule (at least quite often) the cause of the breakdown is in the electric motor! [][ 1] which is responsible for raising and lowering the windows, that is, it simply burned out.

The window lift motor on the VAZ 2114 is not dismountable, only replacement.

Perhaps the problem is in the fuse (the most simple failure) the fuse box, like in its predecessors (VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108), is located under the hood.

True, sometimes just replacing the fuse is not enough; sometimes you need to look for the reason why it (the fuse) blows.

Perhaps the wires are shorted to ground, you need to remove the door trim and see what’s wrong, perhaps the insulation of the wires is broken.

Maybe the reason is in the relay, it is located in the same block under the hood, relay K5, here too only a complete replacement is required.

Or there may be a breakdown in pure mechanics, for example, a worm gearbox has failed, or a problem with the cable drive.

The window lifter system on the domestically produced VAZ 2114 car is quite simple and consists of the following mechanisms:

motor or mechanical crank
lifting mechanism with a set of gears
adjustable lifting device

There are several reasons why power windows may not work:

No current reaches the electric motor connector. The cause could be a blown fuse or a break in the electrical wiring.
The problem is in the motor, this is either a loss of current through the electrical wiring or a failure of the motor itself. The motor is removed and current is supplied to it with reversal of polarity; the motor should rotate freely in different directions.
Failure (mainly the teeth are worn out, resulting in the mechanism jamming) of the lifting mechanism. It is not repairable, only replacement.
The bushings on the adjustable device come off due to wear.
The glass has jumped off and rested against something, which is why the mechanism simply cannot raise it (or lower it)
A foreign object has entered the mechanism.

VAZ 2114 (2113) stops do not work

The VAZ 2114 (2113) car is equipped with brake lights in the rear lights (one in each light). Plus, an additional brake light in the spoiler on the rear door. There are few reasons why the brake lights of a VAZ 2114, 2113 car do not work. Let's list them all and try to figure out this problem ourselves.

The brake light bulb in the rear light is burnt out.

Most often, only one lamp burns out, but sometimes two lamps burn out.

Brake light (stop) lamp in the rear light of a VAZ 2114 (2113) car

In this case, you will have to replace the lamp with a new one or a known good one. The brake light uses a P21W lamp. Similar lamps for the turn signal, reverse light, and fog light are in the same rear light. They can be used to check the brake light by replacing it.

The contacts in the stop lamp socket have oxidized

In this case, a “break” occurs in the electrical circuit of the lamp. Most often, in this case, one brake light will not work, while the other will be on.

Cartridge and contacts of the brake light lamp in the rear light of VAZ 2114, 2113

To restore contact, you need to turn the light bulb in the socket several times, or remove it and clean the oxidized contacts with fine-grained sandpaper.

The wiring block for the rear light is faulty (chip)

Either it is not securely fastened, or the contacts have oxidized. In any case, there will be an open circuit in the electrical circuit.

It is necessary to remove and put the block on the terminals of the rear light board several times to restore oxidized or unreliable contact. Subsequently, you can clean the pins on the board and the wire tips in the connecting block.

The fuse in the mounting block has blown

If the fuse is blown, both brake lamps in the taillights will not light.

The electrical circuit for turning on the brake lights of the VAZ 2114 (2113) is protected by fuse F3 (7.5A) in the fuse and relay mounting block. Check the integrity of the fuse. If faulty, replace with a new one. If the fuse is blown again, you should look for a short circuit in the circuit. According to the connection diagram shown below.

The track in the rear light board has crumbled

As a result, the electrical circuit will be broken (“open”), and the brake light lamp will not light up.

Tail light board tracks for brake light

It is necessary to remove the rear light board where the brake light is not illuminated and inspect it for damage to the tracks. If you cannot visually detect the location of the damage, you should “ring” the tracks with a multimeter or test lamp. Wiring is soldered to the damaged track and the board continues to function. For details, see the article “Checking the rear light board.”

The rear light ground is missing

In this case, one or two lights may not work. The negative wire of the lamp of each of the rear lights comes out of its connecting block of wires (chips) and is attached to the body next to it. Over time, this connection oxidizes and the contact disappears (the circuit opens).

It is necessary to unscrew the nut securing the tip of the negative wire to the body. Clean the pin and tip. After which the contact will be restored and the stop will light up.

Brake light switch faulty

If it malfunctions, both brake lights will not light up. The switch is located under the brake pedal and, after pressing it, closes the contacts of the electric stop circuit.

We remove two wires from it - white-red and pink-red, and connect them together with a piece of wire. The brake lights are on fire - we change the sensor, no, then we check the electrical circuit. In addition, we check the adjustment of the free play of the brake pedal, since the position of the switch may be broken, it does not work completely and the contacts do not close.

“Open” in the electrical circuit of the stop lamps

The cause of the “break” may be insecurely fastened wire harness chips, oxidation of the contacts in them, breaking of the circuit wires or their damage as a result of repairs.

Using a multimeter in voltmeter mode, you can check the presence of voltage in various parts of the electrical circuit and determine the damaged area. The best way to do this is to use a diagram.

Stop lights (brake lights) in the rear lights of a VAZ 2114, 2113 car, wiring diagram

First of all, we check the presence of voltage at the tip of the red wire in the rear light blocks to understand the malfunction in the lights or circuit. Then we check for voltage at the tip of the white-red wire of the brake light switch under the brake pedal.

What to do if the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work

If a problem with the window regulator on a VAZ-2114 occurs while the car is moving, and the driver himself cannot correct the situation on the spot, you need to call a tow truck. The movement of a car when the window has stopped going up or down due to a breakdown, from the point of view of traffic regulations, threatens the safety of passengers and the driver himself. Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? There are many reasons: lowering is difficult because the fuse has blown, there is a malfunction in the door, etc. This article contains information about the types of failures of window regulators on the VAZ-2114, about methods for adjusting and dismantling the mechanism.

The power windows on the VAZ 2114 do not work - reasons

Many car owners are faced with a situation where the window regulator on a VAZ 2114 does not work. As a result of the malfunction, many problems arise, primarily related to a decrease in comfort. Despite the simplicity of the design of the window lift mechanism, their reliability leaves much to be desired.

In addition, the safety block is mounted under the hood and is located in close proximity to the water drainage area. For this reason, the risk of moisture entering the mounting block, with subsequent shorting of the contacts or their oxidation, is very high.

Let's look at why the window regulator on the VAZ 2114 does not work. There may be several reasons:

Oxidation of contact connections.
Damage to one or more controls.
Loss of power.

In some cases, the part can be repaired, but in others, all that remains is to remove the non-working window regulator and replace it with a new device. The most common cause of window regulator failure is the failure of the button. Let's start with this problem first.

How to find the cause of the malfunction and repair the electric window on a VAZ 2114 - see the video below.

Device classification

Window lifters on the VAZ-2114 are standard for other models of the Samara series. They are classified by drive type into:

The latter are divided depending on the method of transmission of the motor impulse:

lever;
rack and pinion;
cable

By type of construction:

Each model has its own advantages, disadvantages and price. Standard configurations of window lifting mechanisms on the VAZ-2114 consist of two types. Electric drive mechanisms are installed in front, while the rear doors are equipped with mechanical devices.

The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work

There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.

The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.

The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:

Damage to the components of the control unit.
The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
Disconnecting the power supply.
The control button has stopped performing its functions.

Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.

Broken power window button

Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? A very common reason for this is that its buttons fail. If the mechanism begins to work at a slow speed after a certain time, the plates inside it may have oxidized. This caused a breakdown in contact: it appears intermittently or disappears completely.

It makes sense to check the version with a broken button, replacing it with a working one. Just swap them. The part is dismantled using a knife or screwdriver. Use the tip to pry it from below and remove it from the chip.

If after installation it turns out that the non-working window regulator began to move the glass, and the working one began to move, on the contrary, then it is worth purchasing a new part and replacing it. If the problem is not with the button, then you need to continue searching for the causes of the breakdown.

One of the reasons for the breakdown of the glass door lift mechanism may be that the relay does not work or the fuse has blown.

Find the safety block under the hood of the car.
According to the diagram, determine the location of the relay itself and the fuse, which make up the links of the electric glass lifting mechanism (ESM) chain.
The legs of the elements must be clean, with a pronounced metallic sheen.
If traces of oxidation, dirt deposits, etc. are found, you need to clean them off. Mechanically or using special means, for example, WD-40.
You can check the relay for functionality in the same way as a button. The working element should be removed from another unit and mounted into the ESP system.
If newly installed parts fail again within a short period of time, then the problem is in the wiring itself.

A breakdown may occur with the lift motor. It either burns out completely, or the worm mechanism inside it fails. In the latter case, the device makes a characteristic sound when the button is pressed, but the glass remains motionless.

Reason: broken button

Owners of VAZ cars, over time, begin to notice that the operation of the window regulators is slowing down. The cause may be problems with the mechanism buttons. Inside the part, there is contact between the plates, the quality of which deteriorates over the years. Over time, contact may disappear altogether. As a result, the window regulator does not work on a VAZ 2114 or on another model of a domestic manufacturer.

The main reason why a button may break is the failure of one of the window regulators. The likelihood that both buttons will fail is extremely low. It is worth noting that the mentioned parts have an identical design, which makes it possible for experimentation. Instead of a faulty element, you can install a button from a known good part.

Alternatively, replace the driver's door by using a knife or flat-head screwdriver to pry up the buttons and remove them from the chips. Next, install a working button in place of the broken one and connect it. If a previously faulty window regulator starts to work, then the cause of the problem lies in the button and it must be replaced (repaired).

Situations

There are situations where power windows stop working under repeated circumstances.
For example, after driving on a dirt road or bumps, the mechanism begins to move the glass in jerks. When opening the casing, it is sometimes discovered that the wire has come out of the chip or from the connector, or after visiting a car wash, incidents begin with the glass. Perhaps the depressurization of the insulation contributed to the fact that moisture penetrated into the electrical components of the system and short circuits or disruption of communication between contacts began. Chafing of the insulating layer of the wiring is one of the most common causes of problems with ESP. To facilitate diagnosis, it is worth observing what causes the standard fuse F6 to blow.

If this moment is the activation of the lift itself, then, most likely, this place is somewhere under the door trim.
If then, when you turn on the ignition, then it is worth checking the insulation of the wires from the door to the safety assembly block.

One of the weak points is where the bundle of wires goes from under the hood to the door trim.

Dismantling the old unit

If the electrical elements have been more or less decided, then the mechanical part of the problem is much more complicated. The described VAZ models have non-separable ESP structures. They are characterized as the most reliable, but in case of breakdown they require a complete replacement from the owner.

How the structure is dismantled.

Remove the handle and rod.
Lowering the glass, remove the holder.
The glass is raised to the maximum and secured with tape.
Unscrew all the nuts holding the mechanism to the door.
Dismantling is complete and the device can be completely removed for diagnostics.

Next, you will decide whether to repair or replace with a new device.

Major breakdowns of power windows

Depending on the configuration of the car, it can be equipped with both mechanical (manual) and electric windows. It is from which of these options is installed on your car that you should begin searching for the corresponding faults.

Thus, for manually operated window regulators the following types of damage are most typical:

failure of rods (bending of rods when excessive force is applied);
jamming of traction joints;
spontaneous unwinding and loss of fasteners.

It is quite simple to fix all these malfunctions with your own hands; you just need to correctly dismantle the window regulator and carry out repairs (we will tell you how to remove the device mechanism below).

In turn, if the power windows on a VAZ 2114 do not work, then the possible reasons for this may be:

fuse blown (at the same time playing the role of a fog light fuse);
failure of relay K5;
break in the power supply circuit of the lifts;
drive motor burnout.

In this case, you should start your search by checking the fuses designated F5 and F16 (this can be done by replacing them with new ones or by regular “diagnosis”). If the fuses are working, then you should continue to look for the problem; if not, replace them with others designed for the same amperage.

The next thing to check is relay K5 in the power window circuit. To test it, you need to replace it with a known working (new) relay and check the functionality of the device. If a malfunction is detected, the old relay must be replaced.

An indirect, but at the same time, objective way to test virtually any relay is to test it by ear. So, when the power circuit is turned on, the working relay should emit a characteristic click, which indicates its serviceability. If, after applying current, no sound is heard, then the relay has soured and does not work.

The next stage of the test will be to “test” the wires in the power window circuit using a multimeter. If a break is detected, it will be necessary to replace the burnt wire with a new one with the same (or slightly larger) cross-section.

If the wiring is in order, then all that remains is to check the functionality of the electric drive itself. The easiest way to do this is to connect the lift motor to the network “directly”. A failed electric window motor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a similar one.

If after such a thorough check it is still not possible to find a fault, then you should check the mechanical parts of the electric lift, namely, inspect the condition of its gears. Most often, it is their breakage or chipping/abrasion of individual teeth that causes the malfunction. The solution in this case will be to replace the gears themselves, which can be purchased at almost any auto store.

Other causes of power window failure

If the window regulator on a VAZ 2114 does not work, pay attention to the serviceability of the mechanism motor. There are situations when the worm mechanism in it breaks, and then, when you press the button to raise/lower the windows, a loud noise is heard. At the same time, the windows do not move. If you do nothing, the motor may burn out completely.

The window lift mechanism rarely breaks, but this also happens. The malfunction can be determined by the twitching of the glass, but without normal movement up or down. At the same time, noise from the motor is heard.

Removing window regulators

Having talked about malfunctions and the principles for eliminating them, we will now figure out how to remove the window regulator of a VAZ 2114 (after all, without dismantling it, it will simply not be possible to inspect and repair the mechanism).

Despite the fact that manual and electrified lifts have completely different designs, they are installed according to the same principle inside the door technological cavity of the car.

Their removal should be carried out as follows:

Remove the door trim.
Raise or vice versa - lower the glass so that the fastening bolts of the glass frame appear in the upper hole of the door.
Unscrew the two mounting bolts securing the glass in the frame.
Lift the glass as high as possible with your hands and secure it with plastic or wooden wedges.
Lower the lift slider to its lowest position.
Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the guide (for the rear door, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the guide).
Unscrew the 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism (for the rear door, also unscrew the 3 nuts holding the window lift).
Remove the window regulator through the technological opening in the door.

Installing a new device is done in exactly the same way, but in reverse order.

If the VAZ 2114 electric window regulator is being replaced, then before starting it you should disconnect the terminals from the battery so as not to cause a short circuit.

Also, to extend the life of lifts (both electric and manual), when replacing or repairing them, all joints and moving elements should be lubricated with CV joint grease or similar.

In conclusion, I would like to add that an important key to the long service life of lifts is their periodic inspection and maintenance.

So, if you have to exert considerable effort when opening/closing a window with a manual window lifter, or if the electric lifter begins to close the windows with great difficulty and creaking, then you do not need to wait for them to completely break down - you should dismantle these devices, tighten the fasteners and lubricate all moving parts.

How to remove a window regulator and install a new part

To remove the window regulator, do the following:

Remove the inner door lock handle at the same time as the rod.
Lower the glass a little so that the mounting bolts are visible in the amplifier hole.

Using a ten key, unscrew a couple of bolts that hold the windows and the lift.
Raise the glass as far as it will go and secure it with a screwdriver or tape.

Discard the wiring harness from the door and power window motor.

Using an eight-inch wrench, unscrew the seven mounting nuts holding the window regulator to the door.

Remove the window regulator.

Place the mechanism in its original place, in the reverse order of dismantling. Before doing this, treat the glass lift guide with lubricant.

Inoperative window regulators: causes and methods of troubleshooting

Electric windows (EP) are one of the vehicle elements that contribute to more comfortable driving. Like any other electrical circuit component, EDs tend to break down periodically. What to do if a car window regulator does not work and for what reasons these components break - read below.

RESULTS

If the window regulator does not work, start by finding the cause of the breakdown, and then proceed to fix the problem. Most often, the malfunction can be fixed independently, without the involvement of specialists. This also applies to situations where it is necessary to remove the window regulator for repair or replacement.

Video: Repairing the window lifter button

Video: Repair of electric window lifter on VAZ 2114

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

Principle of operation

Why do the power windows not work or only the right window does not go up? To understand exactly why the malfunction occurred, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the operating principle of the unit. Typically, such a system has a trapezoidal design, which allows the windows to be raised and lowered by pressing switches. The buttons themselves can be located in all car door cards or located only in the driver’s door. It is also worth noting that an electric motor is mounted in each door, which operates in two directions.

In addition, each system is equipped with a special relay, the purpose of which is to control the voltage supplied to the electric motors of the structure. Depending on the vehicle, some car models may be equipped with automatic switches that are installed separately for each electric motor. The use of such structural elements makes it possible to ensure normal operation of the entire system if the window regulator is poor on only one door.

Causes of malfunction

So, we gradually approached the issue of malfunctions. What if the window regulator cannot go down or up? Before you remove the window regulator, disassemble and repair it in your car, let's look at the main reasons. If the rear or front windows do not work, the reason may be either electrical or mechanical.

Detailed design of the EP system

Electrical faults

First of all, if the window regulator has stopped working, it is necessary to diagnose the safety element responsible for the functionality of the system. If you realize that the power window is not working due to a fuse, then you just need to replace it. But if the fuse is working, then you will need to measure the voltage at the electric motor terminals. This task can be accomplished using a regular 12-volt lamp or using a tester.

If you find that the driver's window or any other door does not work due to voltage, then you need to further check:

wiring;
relay;
system control unit.

Sometimes a car owner thinks that the window regulator is broken if, after opening the window, it automatically begins to close until the key is turned in the ignition. As a rule, in this case the problem lies in the contacts, which should be cleaned. Much less often, but it still happens that repair of electric windows includes replacing or repairing a button.

Mechanical defects of the mechanism

If, after measuring the voltage, you realize that there is current in the system, but it does not go down or the window regulator does not work at all, most likely the problem is mechanical. As a rule, in this case, something is interfering with the device, so you will have to disassemble the door and look for the reason. Much less often, the reason lies in a failed electric motor (the author of the video is the channel In Sandro’s Garage).

How to raise the glass if the electric seal is broken - there are several options:

Purchase a window regulator repair kit and repair the device, after which you can fully use the system.
Try to grab the glass on both sides with your hands and pull it up. If the glass falls after being lifted, you will have to disassemble the door and place a support of the appropriate size under it.
If you can’t lift the glass with your hands, you can take a fishing hook on a fishing line and lower it into the door card. You need to try to pry the glass and lift it.

Replacing the window regulator

If the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work, it can be replaced with a new one. To do this you need to do the following:

Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the glass guide.
Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the three nuts that secure the electric motor or manual drive gearbox.
Disconnect the glass mounting bracket from the glass holder. To do this, you need to unscrew the two 8mm bolts on the bracket.

After this, you can pull the window regulator out of the door. The glass must remain raised. Otherwise it will be impossible to remove the mechanism.

The new lift is installed in the reverse order. However, there is no need to rush to tighten the glass mounting bracket. First you need to make sure that the glass is in the correct position in the guides and moves clearly in them.

Instructions for replacing the electric motor

Repairing a window regulator may include different stages depending on the breakdown. In this case, we will tell you how to repair a window regulator by replacing its electric motor; as mentioned above, this problem is one of the most common.

The replacement process is considered using the example of a Lada Kalina car:

First you need to buy a new electric motor, which is sold in a housing with a gearbox. The door trim is dismantled - this operation cannot be performed in the cold, since the trim is fixed using plastic pistons, which will quickly break.
Unscrew all screws and other fasteners securing the inner handle.
All wires must be disconnected; for greater convenience, you can remove the speakers. After these steps, the glass, which is fixed in the guides, is unscrewed. In order for the glass to sink to the bottom, you need to unscrew four more screws; to do this, use a 10 key. There is a curtain at the bottom of the glass unit, which must be removed.
The window regulator itself is mounted on nuts and guides, the electric motor itself is secured with three more nuts. The block can be pulled out through the technological holes in the door. If you disassemble the gearbox, the electric motor will fall apart into two parts. In general, the gearbox must be dismantled and replaced with a new one, further reassembling in the reverse order. The gear cable should be lubricated before use.

How to disassemble the door of a VAZ-2114?

To get to the window lifting mechanism, you need to remove the door trim. In addition, if you plan to replace it with an electric lift, then you need to dismantle the opening limiter, since a bundle of wires will need to be inserted into the door. To remove the casing:

Unscrew the three screws from below that hold the plastic pocket of the trim.
Remove the two bolts holding the inner handle. To gain access to the bolts, you need to remove the round plugs using a thin flat-head screwdriver.
Remove the plastic trim from the door lock handle. To do this, you need to pry it up with a screwdriver and, moving it a little to the side, pull it out of its recess.
Unscrew the lock button.
Remove the trim. This is done as follows. A flat pry bar or a powerful screwdriver is inserted into the gap between the trim and the door frame. It should fit between the door clip and the door frame. Then you need to squeeze out the clip, not the casing. Otherwise, the clip fastening can be broken, and during subsequent installation the casing will not sit tightly in place. There are 8 clips installed around the entire perimeter of the door. They need to be pulled out one by one.

VAZ 2114 power windows failed

Suddenly the power windows on the VAZ 2114 stopped working, the fuse was intact on both doors, I removed the relay, rang it - it was intact. According to the electrical diagram, the plus fits separately for each door, the minus for each door. There is one plus for the backlighting of the buttons and for the opening buttons themselves, the buttons light up, therefore there is a plus.

What could be the problem?

It's easy and interesting to communicate here. Join us!

you pick the button out of the door, turn on the ignition, and call the wires right on the button, there are 2 pluses, two minuses, and two for the motor, + one for the backlight, everything is very simple

Great answer above! How did you check the relay? It is tested in the closed and open state. In general, it works when the ignition is turned on, it’s not difficult to check by clicking. Well, check if power is coming out of the mounting block. The backlighting of the buttons is usually powered by turning on the headlights. Total weight. As a rule, two buttons do not fail at once.

I'm tired of writing, these advisers who write to any question about electrical engineering: - there is no mass! ! !look for your mass elsewhere, the person needs help and you are here. Dear Nikolai, all negative things come to us suddenly! ! !

Since you have knowledge of the electrical part, it will be easier for us to explain, this is good.

Most often, malfunctions of this type come from the power window control unit, or simply from the buttons

let's divide the circuit into 2 parts and check each one separately,

1 disconnect the plug to the buttons and disconnect the wires going to the window motor, check the motor using + and - connected separately, you can use another battery, check the plug to the buttons with a simple light bulb, if both here and there everything is normal, then the reason is in the buttons, or rather in the jumper plastic contact type swing

if you have any questions, please sign up, today my advice has already helped 2 out of 2 people, and the presence of working backlighting in the buttons does not indicate the working condition of the button itself, the system is like a regular switch in our home

Tips for motorists

As standard, on a VAZ-2114 car, only two window lifters are installed on the right and left sides of the front doors. If a malfunction is identified due to the failure of both power windows, you will first have to check the thirty-amp fuse F6, located in the mounting block under the hood of the car.

If it is burnt out, then it needs to be replaced with a new one. Well, the driver will have to look for the reason for the failure of this fuse, because if this is not done, then the new fuse will burn out in the same way. When searching for a short circuit, it is necessary to take into account at what point the fuse blows. If this happens when the power window is turned on, then most likely there is a short circuit under the door trim, and if the fuse burns out immediately after the ignition is turned on, then most likely the wiring is shorted to ground, somewhere from the mounting block to the door trim.

The weak point that leads to chafing of the insulation of the wires going to the electric window lifter motor is the transition of the bundle of wires from the passenger compartment under the door trim. Therefore, this place needs to be checked first.

If the fuse is intact, then you will have to remove the door trim and check the voltage at the contacts in the plug connectors of the wires suitable for the window lift motor. This can be done very simply using a test light (one wire to the contact, the second to ground, if the light is on, it means there is voltage). If there is voltage and the window lift motor is not working, it will have to be replaced.

In addition to the fuse, the cause of the window regulator not working can be the failure of the K5 relay located in the mounting block. A relay that is not working is usually replaced with a new one. Sometimes, the window lift motor stops working as a result of warping of the thermobimetallic fuse built into the motor to protect it from overloads.

Also, the cause of a non-functioning window lifter can be mechanical faults. These include: failure of the worm gear, which serves to reduce the rotational speed of the electric motor shaft, and problems associated with the cable drive. During operation, the window lift cable stretches and increases in length, which leads to incomplete lowering of the side window. In addition, the extended cable can jump off the guide rollers and then there is nothing to move the side window.

The power window does not work, we are eliminating the problem.

The weak point that leads to chafing of the insulation of the wires going to the electric window motor is the transition of the bundle of wires from the passenger compartment under the door trim. Therefore, this place needs to be checked first. If the fuse is intact, then you will have to remove the door trim and check the voltage at the contacts in the plug connectors of the wires suitable for the window lift motor. This can be done very simply using a test light (one wire to the contact, the second to ground, if the light is on, it means there is voltage). If there is voltage and the power window motor is not working, it will have to be replaced. In addition to the fuse, the cause of the window regulator not working can be the failure of the K5 relay located in the mounting block. A relay that is not working is usually replaced with a new one. Sometimes, the power window motor stops working as a result of warping of the thermobimetallic fuse built into the motor to protect it from overloads.

Also, the cause of a non-functioning window regulator can be mechanical faults. These include: failure of the worm gear, which serves to reduce the rotational speed of the electric motor shaft, and problems associated with the cable drive. During operation, the window lift cable stretches and increases in length, which leads to incomplete lowering of the side window. In addition, the extended cable can jump off the guide rollers and then there is nothing to move the side window. We recommend starting your search for a problem by classifying it, thereby narrowing the list of causes to two groups: First of all, check the power window fuse (on a VAZ 2110 this is fuse F5).

If it is intact, then we check the voltage at the terminals of the window motor using a multimeter or a regular 12V light bulb. If there is no voltage, then we carefully check the wiring, the power window relay, and then the control unit (if any). See also: If the window regulator malfunctions, for example, when you press the button, the window opens, but does not lock and immediately closes itself. Or the button stops working until you turn the ignition off/on. The cause of the problem is the button. It should be removed, the contacts cleaned, and replaced if necessary. If voltage is supplied to the window lift motor, but the window does not move, it means that something is interfering with it, or the power window motor is faulty. Why doesn't the window lift motor work? One of the reasons is retraction or sticking of the drive motor brushes. To check this, turn on the ignition and press the power window button while simultaneously knocking on the car door several times.

The brushes will come off and the ESP will start working. How to repair the window regulator in this case? You should remove the motor casing and pull out the rotor. Clean off deposits where the brushes touch with fine sandpaper. The power window does not work, you can hear a growling sound, but the glass does not stand still, or the window regulator is stuck. Perhaps the plastic gear in the gearbox has worn out, as a result it sticks tightly in the extreme closed position, or slips and therefore cracks. Is there a loud noise when the window goes up/down? Most likely the bearing in the window regulator motor is to blame. The power windows have stopped working, but there is noise when you press the button, and replacing the motor did not help? The power window cable may have frayed due to overtightening.

The window has opened, but the window regulator does not raise it back, but can it be raised and lowered by hand? The window lift cable broke or simply flew off the guides. Another malfunction of the window regulator, when the glass seems to jerk, trying to close. Most likely the problem is that the glass is skewed, or something got on the rail or roller. The power windows don't work well. Try to lubricate the window lift mechanism, as well as the glass guides. If this helps only temporarily, then try adjusting the glass and the window regulator itself. If the window regulators operate slowly, try lubricating the window regulator mechanism and the window guides. Perhaps this is their maximum operating speed, so the only correct solution would be to replace them with new ones (see). By the way, do you know how? Photo source: from Drive2 website. ru from the Drive2 website. ru

The window regulator slowly raises the glass - what should I do? There is a solution!

Hi all! Dear friends, you are all aware of what “jambs” and shortcomings each of us “happy” owners of domestic VAZ cars have to eliminate. Today’s article is another life-saving solution for those who are faced with the problem of poorly functioning beet lifters.

Electric windows (ESP) have been installed on foreign cars for decades, so, as a rule, there are no problems with them, which cannot be said about VAZs. On “our” swallows, such a miracle has been occurring for about 10 years, and as practice shows, the good old “meat grinders” in the form of a simple mechanical handle worked much more reliably. Get to the point! A defect was noticed on many models from 2109 to 2115, where, as a rule, the front right glass does not rise well. Moreover, the window lifters slowly raise somewhere from the middle or even lower, the glass slows down or stops rising altogether. At the same time, drivers help the ESP either with their hand or with a “clarion word”.

Why does the window regulator work poorly?

The first reason is poor lubrication of the window lift mechanism. During operation, the ESP mechanism gradually loses lubrication, causing the windows to slowly lower or rise. The solution to the problem is to remove the door card, after which all working parts are lubricated. If after lubrication of the window lifter mechanism the problem is not eliminated, we continue to search for it.
Often the reason may be poor adjustment of the glass itself. That is, a situation where the glass itself is not installed correctly on the lifting bar. In this case, it is necessary to remove the door card and adjust the position of the glass using the adjusting nut, and then check the operation of the ESP.

Factory defect. If everything is ok with the mechanism and the glass is in place as it should, I advise you to check the guides along which the glass itself moves. That is, we are talking about a tunnel in which glass flows. As bitter experience shows, it is this manufacturing defect that often becomes the reason why the window lifter slowly raises. Due to the narrowing of the guides, additional resistance occurs, as a result of which the motor slows down and the glass slows down. Your task is to understand exactly where the resistance arises and try to correct it. The work is quite simple and consists of removing the velvets and slightly expanding the narrowing area of the metal.

The fourth reason is poor lubrication of the guides. Sometimes, during operation, the guides, or it would be more correct to say the tunnel along which the glass moves, wear out, become abraded, become dirty, etc. As a result, the glass experiences excessive load and resistance, which naturally leads to the window lifter slowly raising the glass. The problem is solved quite simply, we take cotton swabs and clean the tunnel from dirt and sand. Then we take a lubricant, it can be silicone grease or WD-40, or something alternative, and lubricate the guides. We don’t skimp on the lubricant, but we don’t put it in excess either, we just generously coat the sliding areas of the glass, then check the result.

Wear of velvet. Due to increased wear of the velvet covers, or more simply put, glass seals, the latter may rise more slowly. However, if this is the problem, then most likely the power windows on all doors will not work well. The solution to this problem is to replace the worn velvets, after which the problem should go away.

The electric window drive is faulty or has poor contact. If there is something wrong with the motor that raises the window or there is poor contact in the connections, then you cannot avoid problems with raising and lowering the windows. Incorrect operation of the drive, as a rule, manifests itself in both directions, that is, raising/lowering, but most often, lowering is more difficult. In order to fix this problem, it is necessary to remove the electric motor, check its serviceability, lubricate it, etc. After this, we check the operation of the ESP again.

If all the steps described above are completed, then the problem should most likely go away; if this does not happen, you should continue the search or completely replace the ESP. That's all for me, I'm waiting for your solutions to this problem! Perhaps some of you have encountered a situation where the window regulator does not raise well, I would be grateful if you describe your case, as well as a way to solve this problem. Bye!