The stove on the VAZ 2107 does not work - common causes and repairs

The electric motor of the heater fan (ME-255) of VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars is supplied with voltage from terminal “30” of the generator.
The following is an electrical diagram for switching on the electric motor of the heater fan of VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars

There is an additional resistor in the electric motor switching circuit. It is secured with two spring washers in the heater fan housing. When voltage is applied to the electric motor through a resistor, the motor shaft rotates at a reduced frequency.

The ME-255 DC electric motor itself is excited by permanent magnets.

Notes and additions

— On VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars with mounting block 40.3722, the electrical circuit of the heater motor is protected by fuse F1.

More articles on electrical equipment of VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars

Everywhere on the Internet they tell you how to install a 4-position regulator from Kalina, the principle of which is to switch 4 power resistors of different values. But we will take a different path - we will solve the issue radically, using modern technologies. We will make a smooth speed controller.

The description for the set says: “Dimmer of incandescent lamps 12V/50A The device is designed to adjust the brightness of incandescent lamps operating on direct current with a power of up to 600W (50A). ... The proposed device can be used as a power regulator for various heaters operating on DC voltage, for example, car seat heaters or engine heaters. The device can be used to regulate the speed of powerful DC motors. The use of modern element base made it possible to increase the efficiency of the regulator to 99% and minimize the dimensions of the device.”

The stove fan consumes up to 6 amperes, so this regulator is suitable. We will collect and watch. To be continued…

UPD. In the comments to the set I found the following dialogue: Evgeniy58 11/17/2016 04:16 Hello. I connected this regulator to the electric motor of the stove, adding a diode between the motor terminals. The motor constantly beeps during operation, is it possible to increase the PWM frequency in this circuit beyond the audibility range? How to do it? +1 Advisor 11/17/2016 10:11 Replace capacitors C2 and C4 with a nominal value of 2.2nF and 22nF, respectively, the beeping will stop.

If it beeps, I know what to do.

Also, the stove fan itself was replaced with a fan from Luzar luzar.ru/catalogue/elektr…telya-2101-2107-lfh-0101/ Its advantage is that it is not on bushings, but on ball bearings. Luzarov fans are also balanced, which significantly reduces operating noise. When I replaced the engine radiator fan with a Luzarov one, it began to work silently and blew twice as well. The staff member was yelling so loudly that the howl could be heard from the cabin. I think the stove fan will also show its advantages.

Continued 09/24/2017 Now the task is to put all this on the car. The electrical diagram for connecting a classic stove fan is known to everyone

I decided to keep the selection of options as follows: The first position of the switch is to supply voltage to the motor through the shunt, as before - fixed half speed. The second position of the switch is to supply voltage through a smooth control circuit. However, looking at the adjustment connection diagram, it becomes clear that voltage must be supplied to the motor from points 2 and 3, and the motor will not have direct contact with the GND contact, only through transistor VT1 of the smooth control circuit.

How the stove 2107 works

So, the heating system of the VAZ 2107 includes:

heater;
fan;
heater control unit;

From the outside, air enters through the air intake into the casing of the air intake chamber. The camera is located in the engine compartment (in the area under the windshield). The air is then redirected to the heater, where moisture condensation occurs.

An important element is the heater radiator on the VAZ 2107, which heats up due to the circulation of coolant (coolant) in the engine cooling system. In this case, the air temperature changes due to the opening and closing of a special tap (VAZ heater tap), which reduces or increases the flow of heated coolant entering the heater radiator.

You can control the crane thanks to the presence of a regulator in the cabin, which is connected to the crane using a flexible rod. The air flow into the cabin is supplied by the heater fan, and the intensity of the supply will depend on the rotation speed. The VAZ 2107 heater motor is responsible for the operation of the fan. The fan rotation speed changes due to the use of a resistor.

By the way, if the car is moving at high speed, the heating system can supply air to the cabin even when the VAZ 2107 heater fan is turned off. The fact is that the air flow from outside is capable of creating pressure in the air supply box, due to which heated air penetrates into the cabin.

The heating system itself is simple. Air ducts can direct heated air to the feet, the driver, the windshield and side windows, etc. You can control the stove, change the temperature, and select the blowing direction using the knobs on the dashboard.

The handle at the top is responsible for adjusting the position of the heater tap. By moving the handle as far as possible to the left, the tap closes completely, and to the right will mean full opening.

The middle handle changes the position of the air supply cover, which allows you to adjust the intensity of the hot air supply. The handle on the bottom allows you to control the dampers of the heated glass air ducts. If you move the handle to the right, the air flow goes to the side windows, while the left position allows you to blow the windshield.

Car wiring diagram

1 – radiator fan drive motor; 2 – relay and fuse block (mounting block); idle speed sensor; 4 – engine control unit; 5 – potentiometer; 6 – set of spark plugs; 7 – ignition control unit; 8 – electronic crankshaft sensor; 9 – electric fuel pump; 10 – tachometer 2107; 11 – lamp for monitoring the health of electronic systems; 12 – ignition system control relay; 13 – speed sensor; 14 – diagnostic connector; 15 – set of injectors; 16 – adsorber solenoid valve; 17, 18, 19 – fuse block protecting the injection system circuits; 21 – electronic fuel pump control relay; 22 – electronic relay for controlling the intake pipe heating system; 23 – intake pipe heating system; 24 – fuse protecting the heater circuit; 25 – electronic oxygen level sensor; 26 – cooling system temperature control sensor; 27 – electronic air damper sensor; 28 – air temperature sensor; 29 – pressure control sensor.

VAZ 2107 heater fan does not work

Hello. This time I will write about possible reasons why the heater motor on a VAZ 2107 may not work. These reasons can also be attributed to other classic models such as VAZ 2105, 2106, 2101, 2103, 2104.

To check all possible malfunctions, you need to have at least a test lamp, or better yet, a multimeter.

If you find out that it is the heater motor that has broken down, then read the article.

To understand what can break and why the VAZ 2107 heater fan may not spin, you need to consider the electrical circuit for powering this motor.

Let's sum it up

Timely diagnostics, preventive cleaning and inspection of elements of the vehicle’s heating system is a guarantee of high-quality operation of the stove. Experts recommend checking the heating system on the VAZ-2107 at least twice a year - in autumn and spring. Any driver can handle preventive cleaning and adjustments of the stove on his own; to do this, you just need to understand the structure of the heating and ventilation system of the cabin and the principle of its operation. The easiest way to do this is to always have a visual instruction manual for your car nearby.

Don’t put off any further work to improve the functioning of your car’s heating system. Proper care will ensure uninterrupted operation of the heater and a comfortable temperature in the interior at any time of the year.

Additionally, to repair or tune a VAZ, you will need to know the serial numbers of the plugs in the blocks. The electrical diagram of the VAZ 21074 gives the following designations:

Headlights, windshield and headlight wipers, power supply valve control unit, windshield wiper relay.
Mounting block and three-lever switch.
Signal and turn signals.
Rear block lights.
Alarm switch.

Connection diagram for heater fan VAZ 2107

The diagram shows how the stove fan (4) is powered. Power from the battery, through the mounting block (1), goes to the ignition switch (5) and again goes to the mounting block (1). In the mounting block (1) it passes through fuse F1 (10 amperes) and goes to the stove speed switch button (2). Next, power from the button goes either through the resistance (3) to the motor (4), or directly to the stove motor (4).

The VAZ stove fan will not work if any of its circuit components is faulty. You can determine the reason why the VAZ 2107 heater fan does not work:

There is a fault in the mounting block.
The contacts of the heater fan speed switch are burnt out.
The speed control resistance has burned out.
There is a malfunction in the heater motor itself.

Let's take a closer look at each of the faults.

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12/24/2017 by admin | 0 comments

Along with the instrument panel, I did one more thing that had been planned for a long time, but I put it off just before replacing the instrument panel. This is a replacement for the interior heater switch button. I bought this button at the end of September, I really looked for it for a long time, but I still found it. It looks exactly the same as the original one, only the new one has 5 pins on the reverse side, instead of the three of the original one:

If someone decides to buy one for themselves, then its marking is “ 72.3709-02A ”. Also, in order not to deal with wires and terminals for connecting the backlight, I bought a block with eight wires connected for this button. I left only three wires in this block and removed the remaining terminals. On the remaining wires, I crimped the knife terminals on the reverse side so that they could be connected to the wires going to the heater motor. My heater wires are quite short, and it is very inconvenient to remove and put them on when removing the frame with the instrument panel. And most importantly, when installing the frame back, I had to figure out these three wires - which goes where, so that the button works correctly. Now, when you connect the block, everything will immediately be correct; you won’t be able to put it on the button incorrectly.

I decided to connect the backlight for the heater button to the glove box lighting. I crimped one wire with a special female/male terminal, and the second wire with a screw terminal. Thus, I secured the mass to the pin that secures the torpedo to the body, and connected the second wire to the light bulb in the glove box. I covered the often protruding knife terminals that go to the heater motor wires with heat shrink so that after assembly they would not shorten anything for me under the dashboard. Well, connecting the button itself after installing the frame with the tidy was quick and convenient:

Now all that remains is to tuck the button with the block inside into the frame of the instrument panel. After connecting and installing in place, all that remains is to check how the button will look and work.

Everything turned out just as I had planned. Now I have a desire to find and try to install an engine from a front-wheel drive VAZ in the stove, but again, I don’t want to buy a new engine, I will look for a used one in working condition and then experiment with it.

in short, one is clearly +, the other two are two speeds, one goes to the fan immediately, this is understandable, and the second is somewhere like in a relay that reduces the speed, now tell me which terminal I should put + in, and which 2 others

The idea is this, I don’t need a lower speed, so I use it for PTF (needless to say)

with one press, the PTF will work, and with the second press, the stove itself will work)

Malfunction in the VAZ 2107 mounting block

If the stove stops blowing air, then first of all look to see if fuse F1 in the mounting block is intact. Usually, if this fuse blows, then the heated rear window and reverse lights stop working along with the heater. This fuse must be rated 10 amps. No more and no less. If you install a fuse of less than the nominal value, it will constantly burn out, and if you install a fuse of a higher nominal value, it is possible to burn the mounting block. If you have a fuse of a higher rating (as in the photo below), then the likelihood increases that the mounting block has failed and the plus is not supplied to the speed shift button. How to find out, read the next paragraph.

Comments

2 coolers

if you install two 40*40 coolers, it will be even better, you don’t even need to cut anything

Main Cooler (fan)

The main thing is to put the cooler (fan) in the correct blowing position, otherwise it will force air back into the stove)

I've been wanting to make it like this for a long time

I've been wanting to refine it using this method for a long time, but never got around to it. finally got it together. I advise you to install coolers on both side deflectors. and in summer the extra movement of air along the side will not hurt, and they work absolutely silently!

Subjec

To say the least.

A comment

Vacuum cleaner

Well, I don’t know, I don’t know, on computers they don’t hesitate for a long time and, like vacuum cleaners, they collect all the dust.

modification of the stove

Fans of this type are complete garbage, because: 1. They are not designed to blow hot air through themselves - very quickly the electronics inside will die from overheating. 2. There is no lubrication there, as well as the bearing (or rather the lack of it), in a month it will all come out and the cooler will begin to hum when starting “cold”, then it usually jams and the electronics burn out. 3. Dust collects perfectly on its blades, and accordingly, when the car is damp, hello fungi

vote

Article rating

Contacts of the heater fan speed switch are burnt out

You checked the fuse and saw that it was intact. Let's dig further. Now we take and remove the gear shift button from the panel and disconnect the wires from it. Afterwards, we reliably connect one end of the indicator light to ground, and alternately insert the other end into the removed terminals of the wires disconnected from the button. The ignition must be on!

If the light does not light up, then power is not supplied to the speed switch and the mounting block is most likely faulty.

If the light comes on when testing one of the contacts, it means either the button or something else is faulty. How to find out? Very simple! To do this, we make a jumper from a regular wire, from the contact, during the test of which the indicator light came on, to one of the other two contacts. The stove motor will work if the button is faulty. If the motor does not work, then it is the motor that is faulty.

Switch failure

After the fuse, we check the power button. Power from the unit comes to the yellow-blue wire, as already mentioned, and if there is voltage on it, then we check the heater switch.

We take a piece of wire, connect one end to the yellow-blue one and touch the other terminals one by one; if the motor starts working when both terminals are touched, then the switch is working. If the engine does not work in one of the positions, then a conclusion is made that the switch is faulty, but for an accurate assessment you need to check the resistance.

Connecting the VAZ 2107 stove button is shown in the photo.

If there is no voltage at both terminals, the VAZ 2107 heater button needs to be replaced. To do this, pry it up with a screwdriver and pull out the button. We take out the chips from the old button and connect the new one one by one.

Malfunction in the heater motor itself

Before disassembling the panel and stirring up the interior, check whether the mass going from the heater motor to the body sits well. It often happens that this wire simply rots.

If you have a multimeter, you can ring it. To do this, take out the speed switch button and disconnect the contacts from it. Now, in the continuity mode, connect one probe of the multimeter to ground, and check the wires with the others one by one. If the motor and ballast resistance are working properly, the multimeter will beep when checking two of the three wires. If the ballast resistance is faulty, then the multimeter will beep when checking one of the three wires, and if the heater motor does not work or does not have contact with ground, then the multimeter will be silent.

Reasons for decreased performance

In addition to obvious malfunctions due to which the stove does not work or functions incorrectly, there are other problems with the heating system of the VAZ-2107 interior. The main one is a decrease in stove performance.

If the stove heats poorly, then the reason lies in:

Malfunctions of the power plant cooling system (reduced pump performance, stuck thermostat).
Radiator clogged.
Formation of an air lock in the heater radiator.
The air intake damper seal is worn out.

To find the cause of decreased performance, start by checking the heating of the heater radiator. To do this, heat the engine to operating temperature, fully open the antifreeze supply valve to the stove and hand check the degree of heating of the supply pipe before and after the valve and the radiator itself. If the pipeline is hot before the tap, but not after it, the tap is jammed. If the radiator does not warm up, the reason lies in severe clogging of the heat exchanger or a plug in it. If the pipeline does not warm up even to the tap, inspect the cooling system.

Frequent malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 stove

mashinaa.ru

The most typical malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 stove include:

Air entering the cooling system. This usually happens after the system has been filled with antifreeze. Removing the airlock normalizes the heating process of the interior.
When the heater tap is open, coolant does not flow into the radiator. This most often occurs when water is used as antifreeze. Scale forms in the system, clogging the faucet and impeding the passage of coolant. The problem is eliminated by dismantling the tap and then cleaning or replacing it.
Poorly functioning or failed water pump. If the pump does not pump coolant, this can lead not only to a lack of heating of the interior, but also to more serious problems, such as engine overheating. The water pump does not work, as a rule, when the generator belt breaks, as well as when it jams as a result of wear on the bearings.
Clogged stove radiator honeycomb. In this case, the supply pipe will be warm and the outgoing pipe will be cold. The radiator often becomes clogged when water is used as a coolant, as well as when oil or additive particles enter the system to eliminate leaks. Cleaning or replacing the radiator will help restore normal operation of the stove.
Displacement of the partition according to the website mashinaa.ru in the radiator. If both radiator hoses are hot, but warm air does not enter the cabin, then most likely the partition in the radiator has shifted. The only solution to the problem is to replace the radiator with a new one.

If an oily residue appears on the floor or glass, you should look for an antifreeze leak, which may be:

on tap;
on pipes;
on the radiator.

If a faucet or pipe is leaking, it should be replaced. A leaking radiator can be temporarily sealed, but it will still need to be replaced soon.

The list of possible stove malfunctions is not limited to this.

It can be quite difficult to get to some elements of the VAZ 2107 heating system

Stove modernization

Very often, in parallel with the prevention of stove malfunctions and its settings, the driver modernizes the heating system for more efficient operation.

Most often, for these purposes, the standard fan and resistor are replaced with products from the figure eight. The new fan is larger in size, due to which a larger amount of warm air is supplied, and the vehicle interior warms up faster. The new fan fits into the standard seat with virtually no modifications.

Sometimes, for better airflow of the driver’s side windows, additional small fans are installed in the deflectors. Such improvements, combined with preventive maintenance, will ensure comfort and warmth in the cabin even in the coldest times.

The stove doesn't work in summer

Sometimes during the warm season it is impossible to turn off the stove by setting the upper handle of the control unit to the extreme left position. If you cannot turn off the tap, the tap itself or its drive cable is faulty. The tap can be found under the instrument panel on the passenger side. If you also cannot close it manually, you should not apply much effort. The faucet may break and antifreeze may leak into the cabin.

You can replace the faucet after purchasing a new one at any car service center. However, you can try to do this yourself. It should be noted that changing the faucet with your own hands is quite inconvenient due to its location. First, open the hood and disconnect the pipe going to the tap. Since coolant will flow from the pipe, it is necessary to place a previously prepared container under it. After this, you need to remove the storage shelf and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the faucet to the heater body from the passenger seat. Then the tap is removed from the studs, removed and replaced with a new tap in the reverse order.

The reason for the inability to turn off the heater is usually a faulty heater valve.