Operating principle
A fan is a device that allows you to increase the efficiency of a cooling radiator. The radiator takes heat from the engine and releases it into the air. This process is accelerated by blowing through the blades of an electric fan.
The coolant flows through a closed, sealed system. Its task is to remove excess heat from overheated engine parts. Hot antifreeze flows into the radiator, is cooled here and returns back. While in the radiator, the coolant passes through a system of thin tubes. The incoming air flow while the car is moving helps to quickly remove excess heat from the engine compartment.
But when the car is stuck in traffic or idling, the air flow stops cooling it. In this case, the cooling system may not cope with its task. An electric radiator fan is designed to create air flow artificially. The temperature for turning on the fan on a VAZ 2114 is 85 degrees Celsius.
Having received a signal that the permissible temperature value has been exceeded, the sensor starts the device’s operating mechanism. An artificial air flow is created that removes heat from the radiator. The mechanism operates until the temperature level drops to an optimal state.
The thermal switch then receives a signal that the normal temperature has been reached and turns off the fan.
The device consists of four plastic blades that are mounted on the EDF shaft. A special controller regulates the automatic operating mode. The thermostat is equipped with a solid filler that is sensitive to temperature changes.
There are main and additional valves. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees Celsius, the main valve opens.
Operating range on the VAZ-2114
If we consider cars produced at the AvtoVAZ plant, including the VAZ-2114, then the operating temperature range for engines is considered to be 87-103 degrees Celsius. If we consider this issue from the point of view of functionality, then this is the optimal indicator.
If the temperature drops below the limit level, then the Samara-2 engine loses dynamics and power, and if it is higher, it can simply boil and cause great damage. Therefore, if malfunctions associated with the cooling system occur, they must be eliminated as soon as possible.
Where is the regulator relay located?
It is located in an additional block.
4 – electric fan relay;
5 – electric fuel pump;
6 – ignition relay.
Relays and fuses may have a different order. Therefore, you need to focus on the color of the wires. The main relay is always located at the bottom. Find the relay that has a thin pink wire with a black stripe coming from it. It comes from the main relay through pin 85. Be careful! Do not confuse this with the red thin wire, which also has a black stripe and extends from the controller. And find a thick white wire with a black stripe (pin 87). This is where the cooling fan relay is located. There is always a fuse next to it. It is an element of the chain.
WHAT TO DO IF THE ELECTRIC FAN WORKS CONSTANTLY?
Sometimes another problem arises. Many car enthusiasts are interested in why the fan on the VAZ 2114 is constantly running?
There are four possible causes of the malfunction:
- a short circuit has occurred in the electrical circuit;
- the electric fan relay has broken down;
- The temperature sensor needs to be replaced;
- The electronic unit is broken.
Most often, the fan starts to work continuously as a result of a shorted wire. The electrical circuit remains on regardless of the signals from the temperature sensor and relay.
To troubleshoot the problem, you need to ring each wire and find the fusion point. Sometimes it is noticeable even upon visual inspection.
If ringing does not help identify the malfunction, you need to check and replace the fan relay. The cost of the device is low. Therefore, for diagnostics it is easier to buy a new relay and install it in place of the old one.
If this does not help, then you need to check the operation of the temperature sensor. After all, it is he who is responsible for turning on and off the electric motor of the VAZ 2114 fan.
If all other elements of the system are working properly, you need to check the electronic module. It rarely fails. If the problem still occurs there, you will have to perform a complete error reset. Sometimes only a complete flashing helps. Not everyone can do this work on their own. Therefore, it is better to seek help from a car service center.
It would also be useful to install a button to force the fan to start and turn off on the VAZ 2114.
This solution can be very useful if the breakdown occurs somewhere on the highway far from the city. In this case, using the button on the instrument panel, you can force the fan to cool the engine.
Cooling fan diagnostics
If signals appear on the dashboard indicating that the permissible temperature level in the cooling system has been exceeded, this may indicate that the fan on the VAZ 2114 is not working. The main symptom of the malfunction is that the mechanism does not start even with a significant increase in temperature. It is urgent to turn off the engine to prevent its elements from overheating.
The engine should not be operated with a faulty electric cooling fan. This may damage the cylinder head.
If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2114 does not work, the following malfunctions may be the cause of the breakdown:
- The fan switch sensor on a VAZ 2114 has failed.
- Lack of contact at the sensor connector.
- The wiring has broken.
- Electric fan relay faulty.
- The fuse has blown.
- Damage to the device's electric motor drive.
Unplug the device. Connect it to the battery terminal. Maintaining polarity. If a direct connection to an energy source starts the electric motor, then the drive is working. There may be problems with the wiring, the fuse, or the temperature sensor.
Now it’s time to diagnose the fuse. You don't even have to open the plastic box to do this. If the relay malfunctions, the horn stops working at the same time as the fan. Therefore, if you notice the loss of the sound signal, it means that the fuse has definitely blown. You can find it in the engine compartment in a small plastic box. We release the cover, pressed by two latches, take out the burnt fuse with tweezers and replace it with a new one.
But diagnosing a relay is quite difficult. Especially for those who are exclusively “you” with auto electrics. To check functionality, the easiest way is to find a working relay and temporarily install it. If, after installing a new device, the fan begins to work properly, then it is time to replace the old one.
To diagnose the temperature sensor that supplies a signal to the radiator, you need to disconnect the connector from the sensor and start the ignition. The emergency mode will start, in which the electric fan will start blowing. If the fan starts late when the connector is disconnected, the sensor is most likely faulty. Replacing it will take no more than five minutes. You just need to unscrew two bolts using a Phillips screwdriver and install a new device in its place.
Even if a malfunction has occurred in the VAZ 2114 fan itself, this does not mean that it is time to change it. Sometimes you can simply replace a damaged bearing or brushes. But if the electric motor is faulty, it is much easier to purchase a new mechanism.
Principle of operation
The two-contact temperature sensor on the VAZ 2110–2115 family is a resistor mechanism with a negative temperature coefficient. That is, in the cold its resistance is high, and when heated, on the contrary, it is low. During operation, the DTOZ transmits impulses to the ECU. The device has 2 contacts: one for communication with the control unit, the second for starting/stopping the radiator fan.
Table 1. Units of measurement of water temperature and data on DTOZH VAZ 2115
| Degrees t°C | Resistance (Ohm) |
| 100 | 177 |
| 40 | 1459 |
| 0 | 9420 |
| −20 | 28680 |
| −40 | 100700 |
Information for self-checking with the meter
Simply put, the VAZ 2115 temperature sensor (8-valve injector) performs one of the functions of a damper (choke), which was traditionally located on carburetor cars. Having received readings from the DTOZH, the ECU system ensures that the cold engine is injected with a rich fuel mixture, and the hot engine is injected with a lean mixture.
How to make a replacement
If you are convinced that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fan motor, then the easiest way to carry out repairs is to completely replace the device. In this case, there is no point in spending money on a new casing. It will be cheaper to just buy a new electric motor.
Necessary tool
No special tool is needed. The work is carried out simply using 8 and 10 socket wrenches and a Phillips screwdriver.
Step-by-step algorithm of work
You can replace the cooling fan motor without removing the radiator.
- Disconnect the connector and device wiring harness from the casing.
- Unscrew the mounting bolts using a 10mm wrench.
- Unscrew the lower fastening nut.
- Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the mounting nut from the radiator.
- Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the two pressure plate nuts.
- Remove the plate.
- Remove the electric fan along with the casing.
- Let's start dismantling the electric motor. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts and remove the engine along with the blades.
- Using a screwdriver, pry up the lock washer.
- And take it off.
- Remove the impeller.
- Put the impeller on the new motor. Make sure that the shaft pin fits into the impeller groove.
- Reassemble in reverse order.
Fuse installation diagram for VAZ 2115 (injector, 8 valves)
| Marking/amperage | What is he responsible for? |
| F (F-1) / 10 | Rear fog lights, headlight washer motor, fluid pump |
| F (F-2) / 10 | Turn signals. emergency gang |
| F (F-3) / 7.5 | Interior lighting, trunk lighting, on-board computer, clock |
| F (F-4) / 20 | Car socket, heated rear window |
| F (F-5) / 20 | Signal, cooling fan |
| F (F-6) / 30 | Window lifters |
| F (F-7) / 30 | Oven heater, cigarette lighter, heated rear window, glove compartment lighting |
| F (F-8) / 7.5 | Left side fog light |
| F (F-9) / 7.5 | Fog lamp on the right side |
| F (F-10) / 7.5 | Left-hand side lights, license plate lights, engine compartment lights |
| F (F-11) / 7.5 | Right-hand dimensions |
| F (F-12) / 7.5 | Low illumination on the right side |
| F (F-13) / 7.5 | Low beam on the left side |
| F (F-14) / 7.5 | Left-hand high beam |
| F (F-15) / 7.5 | High beam on the right side |
| F (F-16) / 15 | Hazard alarm, heater, brake light |
| F (F-17) / 7.5 | To the fuel pump, to the wipers, to reverse |
| F (F-18) / 25 | central locking |
| F (F-19) / 10 | Reservation |
| F (F-20) / 7.5 | Reservation |
The price of a complete power supply starts from 2300 rubles, melting elements from 100 rubles, a set from 400 - 550 rubles.
Additional power relay modules are installed in the central channel, under the dashboard. To get to the parts, first remove the plastic cover.
- Gasoline pump;
- Radiator fan.
How to replace a temperature sensor
Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.
- Remove the wire.
- Using a 21 wrench, unscrew the temperature sensor.
- Take it off.
- Install the new one in reverse order.
Water pump
The water pump or water pump should drive coolant through the system, but if this unit breaks down, low pressure can lead to slow cooling, which in turn will increase the operating temperature of the engine. Often, the water pump will simply leak and driving the car will no longer be possible.
The fault can be easily treated by replacing the part.
