Why the cooling fan does not work on VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115

The fan is designed to create an artificial air flow directed at the engine radiator in order to cool the liquid circulating in it. When the car is moving at high speed, there is, of course, no particular need for it, but at low speeds, and also when the car is idle with the engine running, you cannot do without it.

The radiator fan is turned on by a signal from the electronic control unit based on data received from the temperature sensor, which is triggered when the coolant heats up to 103-1050C. In a VAZ 2114 car, the fan is located in the engine compartment on the back side of the radiator.

Causes of malfunctions

The fan may not turn on for the following reasons:

  • the fan drive (electric motor) is faulty;
  • fuse is blown;
  • the relay has failed;
  • broken electrical wiring;
  • lack of contact in the temperature sensor connector;
  • The temperature sensor is faulty.

Search for reasons

Diagnosis of a fan malfunction should begin with the fan itself. To do this, disconnect the connector on the fan and connect it, observing the polarity, directly to the battery terminals. If it turns on, it means the drive is working, the reason needs to be looked for further. If the fan does not work, this is the reason. But let's take things in order.

The fan did not turn on. We check the integrity of the wiring and the condition of the contacts on the sensor. If everything is in order, we move on to the fuse and fan relay. They are located under the hood on the left side closer to the driver, in the mounting block.

Fuse F4 is 20A, double, for the sound signal and the cooling fan (it is very easy to check; if there is no sound signal and the fan does not work, then most likely it is the culprit).

You can check the fuse with an ordinary autotester. With relays the situation is more complicated. To make sure that this is not the case, it is better to get a one hundred percent working relay somewhere and temporarily install it in the socket for testing. If the fan does not work even with it, we go to the sensor.

If the sensor is de-energized, the controller must start the fan in emergency mode for constant blowing. Disconnect the connector from it and turn on the ignition. Turning on the fan will indicate that the sensor has failed and requires replacement.

When is it necessary to change a fan?

If the cause is still in the fan itself, you can try to repair it. The problem is usually the brushes or bearings. But it also happens that the electric motor fails due to a short circuit or break in the windings. In such cases, it is better not to experiment and replace the entire drive.

It is strictly forbidden to operate a vehicle with a non-working cooling fan. Overheating of the coolant will inevitably lead to the destruction of rubber pipes and hoses, as well as cylinder head gaskets and valve covers. In addition, high engine temperature can cause destruction of the piston group elements.

How much does a cooling fan cost on a VAZ 2114

You can buy a new cooling fan for a VAZ 2114 for 1500-2500 rubles. Replacing this part at a service station will cost 300-400 rubles. But you don’t have to spend money on this. Dismantling the old fan and installing a new one at home will take no more than 30 minutes.

Cooling fan diagnostics

If signals appear on the dashboard indicating that the permissible temperature level in the cooling system has been exceeded, this may indicate that the fan on the VAZ 2114 is not working. The main symptom of the malfunction is that the mechanism does not start even with a significant increase in temperature. It is urgent to turn off the engine to prevent its elements from overheating.

The engine should not be operated with a faulty electric cooling fan. This may damage the cylinder head.

If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2114 does not work, the following malfunctions may be the cause of the breakdown:

  • The fan switch sensor on a VAZ 2114 has failed.
  • Lack of contact at the sensor connector.
  • The wiring has broken.
  • Electric fan relay faulty.
  • The fuse has blown.
  • Damage to the device's electric motor drive.

Unplug the device. Connect it to the battery terminal. Maintaining polarity. If a direct connection to an energy source starts the electric motor, then the drive is working. There may be problems with the wiring, the fuse, or the temperature sensor.

Now it’s time to diagnose the fuse. You don't even have to open the plastic box to do this. If the relay malfunctions, the horn stops working at the same time as the fan. Therefore, if you notice the loss of the sound signal, it means that the fuse has definitely blown. You can find it in the engine compartment in a small plastic box. We release the cover, pressed by two latches, take out the burnt fuse with tweezers and replace it with a new one.

But diagnosing a relay is quite difficult. Especially for those who are exclusively “you” with auto electrics. To check functionality, the easiest way is to find a working relay and temporarily install it. If, after installing a new device, the fan begins to work properly, then it is time to replace the old one.

To diagnose the temperature sensor that supplies a signal to the radiator, you need to disconnect the connector from the sensor and start the ignition. The emergency mode will start, in which the electric fan will start blowing. If the fan starts late when the connector is disconnected, the sensor is most likely faulty. Replacing it will take no more than five minutes. You just need to unscrew two bolts using a Phillips screwdriver and install a new device in its place.

Even if a malfunction has occurred in the VAZ 2114 fan itself, this does not mean that it is time to change it. Sometimes you can simply replace a damaged bearing or brushes. But if the electric motor is faulty, it is much easier to purchase a new mechanism.

Operating principle

A fan is a device that allows you to increase the efficiency of a cooling radiator. The radiator takes heat from the engine and releases it into the air. This process is accelerated by blowing through the blades of an electric fan.

The coolant flows through a closed, sealed system. Its task is to remove excess heat from overheated engine parts. Hot antifreeze flows into the radiator, is cooled here and returns back. While in the radiator, the coolant passes through a system of thin tubes. The incoming air flow while the car is moving helps to quickly remove excess heat from the engine compartment.

But when the car is stuck in traffic or idling, the air flow stops cooling it. In this case, the cooling system may not cope with its task. An electric radiator fan is designed to create air flow artificially. The temperature for turning on the fan on a VAZ 2114 is 85 degrees Celsius.

Having received a signal that the permissible temperature value has been exceeded, the sensor starts the device’s operating mechanism. An artificial air flow is created that removes heat from the radiator. The mechanism operates until the temperature level drops to an optimal state.

The thermal switch then receives a signal that the normal temperature has been reached and turns off the fan.

The device consists of four plastic blades that are mounted on the EDF shaft. A special controller regulates the automatic operating mode. The thermostat is equipped with a solid filler that is sensitive to temperature changes.

There are main and additional valves. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees Celsius, the main valve opens.

Stove fan device

How to check the engine cooling fan on a VAZ-2114 with your own hands
If the VAZ-2115 has stopped heating the interior, first let’s figure out how the stove operating system works. The structure is simple: the temperature of the air supplied to the cabin is regulated by the heater tap, when opened, coolant (antifreeze) enters the heater radiator, warming up to 95 degrees. By adjusting the fan operating modes from minimum to maximum, you change the speed of the stove, determining the required amount of incoming heat. All that remains is to direct the air flow in the desired direction using the dampers located along the perimeter of the panel of your car.

Where is the fan relay located?

It is located in an additional block.

4 – electric fan relay;

5 – electric fuel pump;

6 – ignition relay.

Relays and fuses may have a different order. Therefore, you need to focus on the color of the wires. The main relay is always located at the bottom. Find the relay that has a thin pink wire with a black stripe coming from it. It comes from the main relay through pin 85. Be careful! Do not confuse this with the red thin wire, which also has a black stripe and extends from the controller. And find a thick white wire with a black stripe (pin 87). This is where the cooling fan relay is located. There is always a fuse next to it. It is an element of the chain.

Relays and fuses VAZ-2115

It happens that the car does not start due to a banal failure of the fuses. In this case, the pump will not emit a characteristic hum when the ignition is turned on. The sound should come from under the rear seats. On VAZ-2115 cars the pump is submersible and is located directly in the fuel tank. If there is no hum in the first 3-5 seconds after turning on the ignition, it means that power is not supplied to the element.

We start looking for a break in the fuses. The cover indicates which one is responsible for the electric fuel pump. But not only fuses are checked. The VAZ-2115 is also equipped with a relay. This element should make characteristic clicks when the ignition is turned on. If the VAZ-2115 does not start and clicks are not heard, most likely the pump relay needs to be replaced. Sometimes cleaning contacts helps. For this purpose, special sprays in cans are used. For the future, it is worth purchasing a set of spare relays and fuses. Sometimes such a “childish” breakdown happens on the road. With new parts in stock, you can continue moving without hindrance.

When do you need to change the fan on a VAZ-2114

If the reason for the non-working fan lies in the fan itself, you can still try to repair this part. As a rule, the problem lies in the bearings. But sometimes it also happens that due to a break in the windings or a short circuit, the fan motor itself fails. If this happens, then it is better not to try to repair anything, but to replace this part.

By the way, driving a car with a non-working fan is strictly prohibited. As a result of this action, the coolant can warm up significantly, which will lead to complete destruction of the pipes and rubber hoses. Driving a short distance with the fan not working can also cause the cylinder head and valve cover gaskets to fail. But that's not all. Overheating of the engine can also destroy some elements of the piston group.

Why doesn't it work

There are several reasons why the propeller may not turn on when the temperature situation requires it:

  • The electric motor of the fan, that is, the drive, has failed;
  • The fuse broke and burned out;
  • Relay failed;
  • The wiring is broken;
  • The sensor connectors have lost contact;
  • The sensor has failed.

Finding the fault

Problem search areaExplanation
Propeller checkThe connector on the propeller is disconnected and connected directly to the battery. If the fan starts working, everything is fine with the drive. If the propeller still does not spin, the problem is in the electric motor.
Wiring and contactsIf the propeller does not work, you must check the condition of the wiring and make sure that the sensor contacts are working properly
FuseYou can find these two elements in the engine compartment on the left, closer to the driver, inside the mounting block. The fan is supplied with a fuse designated F4 with a rated current of 20A. The test can be performed by pressing the horn button. Why? Yes, because it is also connected to this fuse. Or check with a tester
RelayIt is located in the same place as the fuse. For an effective test, it is best to take a relay that you are 100% sure is working, install it in place of the old one and check
SensorTo test the sensor, disconnect power from it. If it works, the propeller will start working in emergency mode, that is, it will blow constantly. Disconnect the connector and turn on the ignition. If the propeller spins, then the sensor is broken. Need replacement

When to change

If the fan itself is the cause of all the problems, it is not necessary to change it, since in some cases it can be repaired. Failures are often associated with bearings or brushes.

If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the electric motor due to a broken wiring or short circuit, it is not worth the risk of repairing it. It is easier and better to replace the entire drive.

Checking for open circuit

If you drive a car that does not have a cooling propeller, this will lead to overheating of the coolant and destruction of pipes, rubber elements, gaskets of the main cylinder block and valve covers. It is not far from destroying the components of the piston group.

Fuse

Operating a vehicle with a broken fan is strictly prohibited.

Price issue

Before starting to solve the problem of a radiator propeller not working, it is important for many people to learn about the cost of components and labor. A new element will cost about 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles today, depending on the model and region

The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there’s nothing particularly complicated here

A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there is nothing particularly complicated here.

temperature sensor

Replacement

Tools:

  • socket wrench 10;
  • socket wrench 8;
  • screwdriver with a Phillips bit.

Execution order

  1. We park the car on a flat surface and immobilize it with the parking brake.
  2. Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal.
  3. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the fastenings of the air filter housing.
  4. Using a screwdriver, loosen the air duct clamp on the air flow sensor and remove the corrugation.
  5. We unscrew the screws securing the cover of the air filter housing and remove the filter element.
  6. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the air intake mount and remove it.
  7. Using a 10mm wrench, then an 8mm wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the fan casing around the perimeter (6 pieces in total).
  8. Disconnect the wire block on the fan connector.
  9. Carefully remove the fan casing along with the drive.

  10. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 3 bolts holding the electric motor to the casing.
  11. We put a new one in its place.
  12. We install the structure in place, fix it, and connect the connector.
  13. We carry out further installation in the reverse order.

Necessary tool

The choice of tool used will directly depend on the nature of the breakdown. Often it is enough to open the relay box and replace the blown fuse with a new one, which will restore the fan’s functionality. Whereas in case of significant breakdowns, when the cooling fans of the VAZ 2114 do not turn on, it is necessary to dismantle the radiator, remove the fan, or change the relay and corresponding temperature sensors. To remove the fan you will need:

  1. Crosshead screwdriver.
  2. Socket wrenches 8 and 10

Step-by-step algorithm of work

In each specific case, fan repair will differ depending on the existing breakdown. It is necessary to carry out appropriate diagnostics, which will allow us to determine why the radiator cooling fan on the VAZ 2114 does not turn on in a timely manner, which will simplify subsequent repairs. First of all, it is recommended to disconnect the fan connector, and then, observing the polarity, reconnect the connector directly to the battery terminal. If, with such a direct connection, the fan begins to rotate, this indicates a working drive, and the reason in this case may be electrical wiring, a faulty temperature sensor, or problems with the fuse.

You can check the fuse responsible for the operation of the cooling fan without opening the plastic box. The fact is that such a relay is dual and is simultaneously responsible for the operation of the horn. Therefore, if the car's sound signal disappears and the fan does not work at the same time, this indicates a blown fuse. The block with such relays is located under the hood in a small plastic box. To open it, you need to remove two latches, then use tweezers to remove and change the fuse you need.

Relay failures are difficult to diagnose. We can recommend that you get a 100% working relay, temporarily install it in the socket and check that the fan is turned on correctly. If during such a test the fan starts working, then you should simply replace the relay used with a working one.

To check the temperature sensor, from which the signal goes directly to the radiator, disconnect the connector from the sensor and then turn on the ignition. In this case, the automation starts the fan for constant blowing in emergency mode. If, when the connector from the sensor is disconnected in this way, the fan turns on late, then we can therefore conclude that the temperature sensor has failed and will require replacement. The temperature sensor itself is fixed with two bolts, which can be unscrewed with a simple Phillips screwdriver. This sensor replacement usually takes no more than 5 minutes.

MODE SWITCH PANEL

Sometimes the stove cannot be turned on because the switches on the control panel fail. You can also fix this problem yourself. You must first remove the handles and remove the stove mode switching unit. When removing the panel body, pay attention to the latches. They need to be pressed with a thin screwdriver, and at the same time pulled out. When the latches are removed, the switch housing housing slides out of its socket easily. Here you can already see what kind of breakdown occurred and what parts can be replaced.

A car's heater, at first glance, is a simple unit in a car, but it is closely connected with the entire structure of the car, and primarily with the cooling system. Using the heat generated by the engine, the car heater does not require additional electricity and fuel. But often it is the failure of the interior heating system that can be the first signal of more serious defects.

Reset errors

Replacing coolant for Lada 2115 (VAZ 2115)

Sometimes after repairs have been carried out, error codes still remain in the memory of the electronic control unit. They may interfere with the normal operation of the fan and may also be displayed on the on-board computer. In order to restore the functionality of the element, you need to remove them. This can be done in two ways.

1 way. To do this, you will need an OBD scanner and a laptop or smartphone with the appropriate application. Errors are reset in the following sequence:

  1. Connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector of the car and a laptop or other gadget.
  2. Turn on the ignition.
  3. In the program, press the READ key and press ERASE. Sometimes you need to select YES or CLEAR to clear errors in an application.

Method 2.

  1. Turn on the ignition without starting the engine.
  2. Open the hood and loosen the negative terminal of the battery.
  3. Wait approximately 1 minute.
  4. Place the terminal in place, securing it securely.
  5. Close the hood and turn off the ignition.

After clearing the fault codes, you need to turn on the ignition and check for errors. You also need to make sure that the fan is functioning properly. If resetting does not solve the problem, the problem may have been identified incorrectly.

You can drive with a constantly running fan, but provided that the antifreeze temperature is normal. If it is high, then you need to stop and not use the machine until the problems with the cooling system are eliminated.

How to replace a temperature sensor

Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.

  1. Remove the wire.

  2. Using a 21 wrench, unscrew the temperature sensor.

  3. Take it off.

  4. Install the new one in reverse order.

Coil

Modern cars are no longer equipped with distributors. There is a VAZ-2115 (16 valves) here - no exception. Sometimes breakdowns happen. Because of this, the VAZ-2115 does not start. Reasons for faulty

This item cannot be repaired. And in order not to waste time on diagnostics (or if you don’t have a multimeter), it’s worth installing a known-good ignition module. The VAZ-2115 should start without difficulty. Sometimes the high-voltage wires themselves pierce. But in this case the car starts and starts. This can be heard by the characteristic sound of the engine.

Fuel system

If it is below -20 degrees outside the window, it is possible that condensation has formed in the tank. The presence of water in gasoline is a bad sign. Moreover, it is not necessary that it be “diluted” at the gas stations themselves. Due to the temperature difference, condensation forms on the walls of the tank. At low temperatures it freezes. As a result, the VAZ-2115 (injector, 8 valves) does not start. Frozen water can be both in the fuel lines and in the filter itself. There is no point in trying to turn the starter with the hope that the car is about to start. You'll just drain the battery. The only solution to the problem is to warm up the car. It's better if it's in a garage with this problem. By installing an oil or induction heater there, you will quickly warm up the air temperature in the room. And the car will start successfully.

Candles

If they do not produce sparks, even with new filters a situation will arise where the VAZ-2115 will not start.

It is worth unscrewing the elements using a multi-faceted wrench and inspecting their condition. Often they are “flooded”, which is why the VAZ-2115 does not start. This means that the working part of the spark plugs is covered with a large amount of fuel. As a result, the spark is unable to ignite the fuel.

And, as you know, not only gasoline, but also air is supplied into the chamber. If the amount of the latter is insufficient, starting the engine will be difficult.

Clogged filters

This problem can occur in both summer and winter. And this applies not only to the fuel filter, but also to the air filter. The latter is in a special plastic case. On VAZ 15th model cars it looks like this.

After moving the latches, lift the air filter housing cover and remove the cleaning element itself. If it is dirty, the part needs to be replaced. Filters are consumables and cannot be restored at home. Moreover, they cost pennies. As for the fuel filter, it is located under the bottom of the car. The element looks like in the photo below.

If the car has driven more than 30 thousand kilometers, the filter should be replaced. You will not be able to visually determine the degree of contamination as you can in the air. The part is located in a closed, non-separable case. It has porous paper inside. It is capable of passing particles smaller than 10 microns. Over time, the pores of the paper become clogged, and the filter is not able to pass the required amount of fuel through itself. So that the problem does not take you by surprise, change this part in advance.

A characteristic sign of failure is jerking when moving (as if the fuel supply to the cylinders had stopped for some time). This means that the submersible pump is not able to supply the required amount of fuel through the paper pores. As for the air filter, it is changed every 6 months or every 10 thousand kilometers. By following the regulations, you will protect yourself from such problems.

Useful video

You can glean additional interesting information from the video below:

What to do if the VAZ-2114 injector cooling fan does not work

It must be emphasized that if the car is moving at high speeds, there is, of course, no particular need for an efficient fan. But as the speed of the car decreases, even when the car is idling, you simply cannot do without a fan.

This device turns on automatically when a signal is sent to it from the electronic control unit. After stopping the VAZ 2107, the fan does not work facing the inside of the radiator. This signal is based on data received from a temperature sensor, which is triggered when the coolant temperature rises to 103 degrees.

How to solve a problem?

There are two ways to solve this problem:

  • On the spot. If you don't have time to remove the spark plugs, you can try drying them directly in the engine. To do this, open the throttle valve 50 percent before starting. Fortunately, on the VAZ-2115 the accelerator pedal is mechanical, with a cable drive. This will allow more air to enter the combustion chamber. The candles are “blown out” automatically. After starting, the throttle valve can be closed. But this method is not always effective. And then the second method comes to the rescue.
  • Self-drying. In this case, all four spark plugs are unscrewed. An important point - when removing armor wires, number each of them. Otherwise, the engine will not start at all, since the valve timing will be disrupted. You can quickly dry it with a home hairdryer, setting it to maximum blowing mode. If time permits, you can check the gaps between the electrodes of the spark plugs. When this parameter does not match the factory setting, the spark plug cannot produce a normal spark. We talk about this in more detail.

About spark plug gap

Over time, the gap between the electrodes increases. The normal parameter is from 0.7 mm to one millimeter. You can check this gap using a special feeler gauge.

The same is used for setting on carburetor engines. So, if a parameter does not meet the norm, it should be adjusted. To do this, you should use a negative screwdriver. To reduce the gap, press its end onto the upper electrode. Hold the part itself with your other hand. If you “overdid it”, it doesn’t matter - everything can be returned back. To do this, bend the electrode with the edge of a screwdriver (it bends quite easily) and check the distance again. It is worth noting that with a correctly set gap, you can not only ensure trouble-free engine starting, but also reduce fuel consumption by 5 percent. Also the car will run smoothly. After all, the mixture is ignited exactly at the moment when it is necessary. And the last thing is the resource of the candles themselves. If the gap is higher or lower than normal, the risk of breaking through the insulator increases significantly. As for the replacement schedule, it is about 40 thousand kilometers. Together with the spark plugs, it is recommended to replace and

Pump malfunction

The pump rarely fails completely, so the fault can be accurately diagnosed only after removal. The most common problem with it is the impeller breaking off. It can be solved by replacing the pump. Other troubles include deformation of the pump gear and blades due to defects or mechanical wear. This fault is especially serious as it can cause the timing belt to become misaligned. And this is its uneven wear and the danger of breakage with all the sad consequences for the piston group.

Leaking cylinder head gasket

This problem is one of the rarest causes of engine overheating in VAZ 2114 cars. When it occurs, overheating is a secondary symptom that may be accompanied by a number of others:

  • oil leaks from under the cylinder head;
  • uneven engine operation and low compression;
  • increased oil consumption, noisy engine operation and gas flow, black exhaust.

In this situation, at best, the solution would be to replace the cylinder head gasket. At worst, a major overhaul of the engine with cleaning of all internal cooling channels.

When the engine gets hot, it is dangerous not in itself, but because of its consequences. Long-term driving at elevated operating temperatures first leads to loss of properties of elastic parts: valve stem seals and piston rings. Because of this, oil consumption increases, and engine operation becomes uneven and dirty. All this leads to expensive major repairs.

The consequences of severe overheating are even more severe: the cylinder head and cylinder block are deformed and sometimes crack. An engine that has survived this can no longer be repaired.

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