The heater damper does not work on a VAZ 2110: reasons and self-repair

It cannot be said that the build quality of AvtoVAZ cars is at an extremely sad and low level. But these cars cannot be called exemplary either. One way or another, if you properly care for your car, monitor it, and carry out periodic preventive maintenance, expensive repairs will be reduced to a minimum.

A car is a means of transportation that has a certain level of comfort. The stove is partially responsible for the comfort of the driver and his passengers in the VAZ 2110 . Various problems occur in its design, and the heater damper on the VAZ 2110 is no exception. The role of this unit is to maintain the temperature specified by the user.

VAZ 2110 stove, heater, fan, dampers, video of replacing the VAZ 2110 stove radiator

The VAZ 2110 stove is perhaps the most problematic and capricious mechanism in the entire car design. You cannot do without a stove or a faulty interior heater radiator on a VAZ 2110, given our cold climate. If in the summer a non-working stove may not bother you, then with the onset of the cold season it often turns out that the stove on the VAZ-2110 is blowing cold air. Today we will try to talk in great detail about the design, repair and replacement of the heater on the “ten”. For clarity, we will supplement the text with photographs and videos.

Let’s say right away that the design of the heating system on the “ten” is fundamentally different from what was on the old VAZ models. The most important feature and difference of the interior heater is that the VAZ 2110 heater radiator and its fan are located not in the cabin, but in the engine compartment. This design has its advantages, for example, to replace the heater radiator or stove fan, you do not need to completely disassemble the front panel (dashboard).

Another important difference is the electronic control of climate processes in the cabin. For this purpose, the VAZ 2110 is equipped with a so-called automatic heater control system (AHC). Photo of the SAUO block below.

By the way, the SAUO unit on “tens” of different years of production varies. Since 1996, 4 types of SAUO controller have been produced. It is worth taking this into account when purchasing a unit as a spare part. It is this device that controls the temperature in the cabin and the operation of the fan. You can set the temperature from 16 to 28 degrees.

But how does this miracle device work? On the ceiling of the “tens” cabin there is a temperature sensor or a ceiling air sensor with a built-in (very small) fan for air circulation. It is this sensor that sends information about the actual temperature in the cabin, and the SAUO unit gives a command to the micro gearmotor (MMR), which in turn opens or closes the main damper, which is responsible for the access of hot air to the cabin. When the temperature in the cabin changes, the ceiling sensor gives a new signal, the micro-gear motor is activated, turning the damper, closing or opening the access of hot air to the cabin. This way the set temperature is automatically maintained. Next is a photo of the VAZ 2110 heater air duct diagram .

Assembly

When installing a new damper, be sure to make sure that the fork located on its axis is clearly engaged with the lever. If the flap is in the raised position, you did everything right. Otherwise, it will be impossible to control the device, so you can forget about restoring the functionality of the stove.

Damper location

After this, reverse the assembly procedure according to the dismantling steps. Refill the system with coolant and check that the new damper is in place. It is important to ensure that there are no leaks and that the hose connections are not tight.

Turn on the stove and check how the heater behaves. If everything is normal, you have carried out competent and successful work, for which we congratulate you.

VAZ 2110 heater blows cold, why?

Many owners of the “ten” complain that at some point the stove constantly blows cold air and no amount of turning the handles of the automatic heater control system can save the situation. There can be a lot of problems and malfunctions. For example, the ACS controller itself is faulty, the ceiling sensor or micro-geared motor is faulty and simply does not open or close the damper. Another reason is the air (air lock) in the heater radiator, which is simply not capable of heating the air passing through it. Below is a schematic representation of the VAZ 2110 heater device .

Heater dampers VAZ 2110

Often the cause of poor performance of the “tens” heater is the damper of the VAZ 2110 heater . The damper may not close tightly or open poorly. The heater flap itself is made of plastic, which can become warped and perform poorly over time. Many car owners buy a metal damper and change it themselves. How to check the functionality and evaluate the condition of the heater damper? Everything is quite simple, remove the central air duct deflector and there you have it - a damper! Let's look at the photo.

Diagnosis of the problem

If the reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work is the damper, it is not difficult to identify it. To do this, disassemble the central deflector, turn on the ignition and rotate the temperature setting knob to its extreme positions. In a working stove, the central damper will not knock and will completely open and close the air supply channel.

If the heater damper does not move or stops in a position that does not completely block the air passage, it may be stuck. You can verify this by pushing the valve with your hand or a long rod. If after this the damper returns to its normal position, then this is the reason why it is jammed. Through the mounting hole of the deflector, you can assess the condition of the damper and its seals. If the damper is deformed, its bend is clearly visible.

Heater damper VAZ 2110: causes of malfunctions and repairs

On the VAZ 10th family, which includes the VAZ 2110-2112 models, the designers used an electronically controlled interior heating system, thanks to which the temperature set by the driver is maintained automatically.

On the VAZ-2110, instead of a manual heater control mechanism with a cable drive of the main elements - the coolant shut-off valve and dampers, an automatic heater control system (AHC) controller with a temperature sensor and a gearmotor that regulates the position of the dampers are used.

In such a stove, the valve for shutting off the antifreeze supply is no longer used, and the adjustment of the heater operating mode - “heating” or “ventilation” - is carried out by a central damper, which directs the air flow through the radiator or bypassing it.

Assembly of the unit

Interchangeability of gearmotors

When the work to restore the functionality of the MMR is completed, install it in place. For this:

• Insert the pin of the micromotor-reducer lever into the slot of the lever. It is located on the damper drive;
• If the lever is not turned properly, apply 12V voltage to the motor connector pins using two wires. We are talking about yellow wires here. This way you can return the lever to the correct position;
• Having installed the micromotor-reducer, check it for operability, plus watch how the damper drive of your heater moves, whether the heater control lever “plows” properly to regulate the temperature.

We will repair or replace the damper and heater drive, you will be able to return the heater to its previous functionality and independently determine what temperature regime will be set inside the cabin of your VAZ 2110.

We are finishing the VAZ-2110 heater. Manual control

And there is no guarantee that the new one will work happily ever after. But replacement is a troublesome and expensive task: the unit costs about 550 rubles.

So this embarrassment happened at the editorial “top ten” (see the material “Last Year’s Snow” - ZR, 2006, No. 3).

The simplest and most effective way to restore acceptable interior heating was to insert a figure-of-eight valve into the heater pipe (see photo). The work takes only 15 minutes, and all you need is a knife and pliers. The valve control cable (the control cable for the air damper of a Zhiguli carburetor is suitable) can be conveniently brought into the cabin under the steering column. The air damper of the “tens” heater must be secured in the “hot” position. Access to it is with a long screwdriver through the removed air duct grille in the center of the instrument panel (“dashboard”).

To restore the heating control that is natural for the “ten,” instead of an unreliable electric drive, we installed a blind control cable from a GAZ truck, adjusting it to its length. Oh, the Bychka heater cable fits, but its price, like the gear motor, is 550 rubles...

The mechanical control of the damper fits the “ten” so well, as if this option was included in the design from the very beginning.

We remove the frill and the faulty gear motor, saw off the square shaft from it. We make a lever from metal, and a clamp from an M8 bolt (see figure).

We drill a hole in the panel and fasten a cable pre-adjusted to its length in it (we cut the cable sheath so that it serves as a limiter for turning the lever).

We insert a piece of the square shaft of the gearmotor into the damper axis, put a lever and clamp on it, insert the cable into the hole in the clamp, turn the damper to the “warm” position (the cable is recessed) and fix it.

Now the manual damper will last forever.

Features of the design of the VAZ - 2110 stove damper

Note that VAZ-2110 of different years of manufacture uses heaters that differ in design:

1. Old-style stove damper

Old heaters use two central dampers, one of which blocks the flow of air into the cabin from the outside, and the second one redirects the air flow to the heater radiator or bypasses it. They are interconnected by drives and opened by a micromotor gearbox.

2. New sample

In the new type of stove there is only one central damper and it is connected by a drive to the gear motor directly, and not through a lever.

3. Under the “Euro” panel

Structurally, such a stove does not differ from the new type of heater, but in it the damper for distributing the air flow into zones is controlled by another micromotor gearbox.

It is easy to visually distinguish the stoves by the location of the heater fan. In the old-style interior heater, the fan is located horizontally, while in the new model, it is positioned vertically. Their gearmotors are also different.

First step: check the functionality of the device

Before ordering a new damper from an online store and performing repair work, you need to make sure that such actions are up to date. It is possible that the old-style VAZ 2110 heater damper could become loose, jammed, or jump out of its place. To check you need:

• start the car;
• set the regulator to different positions;
• manually move the flap.

The plastic damper has a huge disadvantage: when high temperatures occur, the plastic becomes deformed. As a result, the valve may jam, and only cold or hot air will enter the cabin.

Old-style dampers are installed on VAZ-2110 cars manufactured before 2003. As a result of manual movement of the valve, the functionality of the stove can be temporarily restored. But such work cannot be called a full-fledged repair, since after some time the problem in question will manifest itself again.

It is important to pay attention to in what case the valve can be controlled. The breakdown may be hidden in the micromotor-gearbox if the valve is controlled with the engine running and the regulator in the extreme position.

Also, do not exclude the control unit and microfan from the list. These elements can also cause the problem in question.

A malfunction of the control unit, fan and gear motor indicates that the stove needs to be replaced. This is the only solution to the problem. If the work is not completed in a timely manner, the motorist needs to prepare for more serious consequences and expensive repairs.

Of course, before opening the damper of the VAZ 2110 stove manually and moving it, you will need to remove the deflector. The air duct deflector is dismantled directly from the seat without the use of additional tools. The work must be done carefully so as not to break the wire contacts.

Causes of malfunctions

Depending on the design of the stove, the damper may cause a disruption in the efficient operation of the heater for the following reasons:

• deformation;
• wear of seals;
• deterioration or damage to control levers and rods;
• skew.

Deformation is a problem with old-style heaters. The first dampers of the VAZ-2110 stove were equipped with plastic elements that bent under the influence of temperature. Because of this, even when completely closed, cold air from outside leaks in and mixes with the heated air, and the efficiency of the stove decreases. Subsequently, the designers replaced the plastic flaps with aluminum ones and the problem with deformation disappeared.

To ensure tightness, the dampers have seals that reduce air leakage. Initially, foam rubber seals were used, which quickly wore out and became damaged. Later, foam rubber was replaced with rubber, but this only extended the service life of the seal; over time, the rubber ages, cracks and collapses.

On old-style stoves, rods and levers may break. On new heaters, there is another problem - wear on the edges of the square end of the gearbox, with which it is inserted into the groove made in the damper axis. As a result, the limit switch bypasses the groove, and the heater damper jams, although the gearmotor operates. The misalignment occurs due to the displacement of the damper axis in the mounting holes of the housing. Because of this, the damper warps and jams when opening.

We are engaged in the drive

Simultaneously with replacing the damper, we check its drive, and if the MMR does not work, it is necessary to either replace the motor or repair it. After removing the trim and lining of the windshield behind the vacuum amplifier of the VAZ 2110, we find the MMR, disconnect two connectors - the MMR and the micromotor.

MMR new sample MMR old sample

Next, unscrew the screws and take out the MMR, from which we remove the motor. Its operation is checked by connecting to the automatic control system.

If you find that it is not working, you can replace it, but repair is also possible. The stages are:

• Partially bending the pressed side, remove the lid;
• Check the condition of the bearings, brushes and commutator;
• Replace or fix them. If the gear teeth of the gearbox are worn out, it needs replacement;
• Bearings require silicone grease.

If after repair the operation of the motor is restored, you can assemble the MMR and install it in place. In the VAZ 2110 this is done like this:

• The MMR lever pin must be inserted into the slot of the lever, which is located on the heater damper drive;
• If the indicated lever is turned incorrectly, you need to apply 12 V voltage with two wires to the contacts of the motor connector (yellow wires fit here), and the lever will move to the desired position;
• After installing the MMR, check how it works, at the same time, how the heater damper drive moves and the heater control lever works to set the temperature in the VAZ 2110 cabin.

Repair and restoration of the stove damper

The deformed heater damper of the VAZ-2110 cannot be repaired; it only needs to be replaced. In this case, it is better to purchase a replacement metal part that is not so susceptible to temperature effects.

Whatever heater is installed on the VAZ-2110, to carry out repair work, the heater must be completely disassembled. In this case, the process of dismantling and disassembling depends on the design of the stove.

A positive aspect of the heater design on the VAZ - 2101 is its location - to get to it and the dampers you can from the engine compartment and you don’t have to remove the front panel.

Disassembling an old-style stove

For example, let's look at how to disassemble an old-style heater:

1. Remove the terminal from the battery.
2. We remove the windshield wipers, the seal, remove the air intake near the windshield (“jabot”) from the car, in the process you will need to disconnect the windshield washer nozzle tubes.
3. We dismantle the insulation that separates the stove body from the engine compartment.
4. We remove the gear motor.
5. We divide the housing of the stove and air filter into two halves. To do this, unscrew the coupling bolts around the perimeter of the housings and remove the mounting brackets.
6. Disconnect the fan power wires.
7. Remove the outer half of the air filter and heater housing (along with the fan).
8. We dismantle the inner part of the fan housing.

After this you will have access to the dampers. If you are only planning to repair or replace the heater dampers, there is no need to drain the antifreeze, since the heater radiator will remain in place and will not be removed.

Before removing the dampers, carefully inspect and remember their position and the way they are engaged. Further actions depend on the nature of the damage. Deformed damper parts cannot be repaired and only need to be replaced. As for damaged rods and levers, try to repair them or simply replace them. The damaged seal is replaced.

When assembling the stove, pay special attention to the engagement of the dampers. Do it as it was before disassembly, otherwise the dampers will not work correctly, which will affect the performance of the heater.

Disassembly and repair of a new type heater

The new model stoves are disassembled differently:

• disconnect the battery terminal, drain the antifreeze;
• dismantle the frill and insulation;
• disconnect the power wires of the fan and micromotor gearbox;
• unscrew the fasteners that secure the stove body to the body;
• disconnect the coolant supply pipes to the heater radiator;
• We remove the heater from the car along with the filter housing.

After this, we disassemble the stove body, dividing it into two halves, after first disconnecting the air filter housing and removing the mounting brackets. Next, we change or repair the damper, assemble the heater and install it on the car.

Note that the general algorithms of work are indicated above, but in reality, dismantling the stove is not so easy, since many fasteners are located in hard-to-reach places, sometimes you have to disconnect or remove elements that make it difficult or interfering with the removal of the unit.

Dismantling

The stove is being disassembled

To replace the device, you will have to perform a series of sequential steps. The work is not particularly simple, but doing it yourself is more than possible:

• Drain all coolant from the heating system;
• Disconnect the battery. To do this, simply remove the negative terminal;
• Remove the trim, windshield trim and sound insulation;
• Remove the fan from the stove;
• Disconnect the vacuum pipe clamps from the heater housing;
• Remove the front heater air intake housing. There's definitely no need to rush here. To facilitate dismantling, we recommend removing the dashboard. Inside the cabin, the fasteners that hold the heater are unscrewed, and then raised;
• Remove the spring clips, mounting nuts, and front housing;
• Disconnect all hoses from the radiator;
• Disconnect the rear casing from the heater;
• Remove the radiator from the stove.

After these manipulations, you can finally replace the damper.

Principles of interior ventilation

Before you figure out the causes of the malfunction, you should know the principle of the device and the rules by which ventilation is carried out. So:

• Air is supplied to the passenger compartment through the holes in the trim on the windshield: when the car is moving voluntarily, or forcibly with the help of a heater fan.
• Air escapes through the gaps between the inner door panels and between the upholstery, then through the holes located at the ends of the doors. The thermal insulation of the interior is improved by valves built into the openings, which allow air to pass out and prevent it from entering the inside of the car.
• The main part of the air is directed to the windshield; flows are directed to the central part and side windows through deflectors blocked by flaps.
• Air is supplied to the driver’s feet and the passenger sitting next to him through two pairs of deflectors: one pair is located near the floor, the other at knee level.
• Through a lining located on the floor tunnel and two air ducts built under the front seats, air is supplied to the feet of passengers in the rear.
• To prevent the entry of outside air, especially if the road section is polluted, smoky or very dusty, there is an air recirculation system. When the recirculation button is recessed on the instrument panel, the electro-pneumatic valve opens. In this case, under the influence of the vacuum that occurs in the intake pipe, the access of outside air is blocked by the recirculation system flap into the vehicle interior.
• The air temperature is regulated by the controller handle from 16°C to 30°C.
• Information about the temperature is read from its sensor by a unit with a microfan located on the ceiling. The unit turns on the micromotor when a temperature difference occurs, which controls the heater dampers. When the damper reaches the desired position, a signal is sent from the sensor to the control unit, which turns off the micromotor.

Let's sum it up

Malfunction of the VAZ-2110 heater damper is a common malfunction, especially in vehicles with old-style heaters. Breakage in most cases is due to the quality of plastic dampers, which are very often subject to deformation. It is possible to repair and replace the VAZ-2110 stove valve yourself without the help of professionals. Before starting work, you need to understand that in order to carry out high-quality repairs and restore the previous functionality of the heating system, the stove will have to be completely dismantled.

Despite the complexity of the work ahead, the result will please the driver and passengers with warmth and comfort in the vehicle interior. A high-quality repair of the heater damper and its drive guarantees stable operation of the vehicle’s heating system at any time of the year.

Sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts

The main problem with good blowing of side windows is the presence of a large number of cracks in the dashboard air duct system, which should only be sealed, thereby reducing heat loss and significantly increasing the pressure of the air flow for blowing the side windows of the car.

Heater duct routing

You will need silicone or anti-squeak (modelin). We seal around the perimeter all the cracks in the upper and lower parts of the torpedo panel. Also, do not forget to “silicone” all the mounting holes. At this point, you can consider the first stage of work completed.