Reverse gear, first and other speeds do not engage when hot

Why reverse gear does not engage - common reasons

In this article we will look at the main reasons:
Speed ​​switch

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the rocker itself and the cardan - it often happens that the rocker slips, the splines are ground off or the clamp is loose. In this case, you will need an overpass or a pit.

Reverse gear locking mechanism

To check this mechanism, you need to remove the gearshift knob (the dashboard between the seats) and look. Everything will become clear. If you checked the first two points and found no problems, then you will have to remove the gearbox. The fixing bolt was cut off. Fastening the gear selection mechanism. A spring (the most common one sometimes bursts).

Alternatively, the reason may be in the release bearing, but then all gears would be engaged barely and with a crunch. You can also try adjusting the clutch pedal.

Knocks out 2nd gear of VAZ 2109 DIY repair

• Registration
• Entrance

• To the beginning of the forum
• Forum Rules
• Old design
• FAQ
• Search
• Users

Change the gear locks on the gearbox

And this changes with or without disassembling the box.

In general, I’ll tell you in order. After reading the forum, I installed a Kalinovka gearbox. Somehow I immediately started to lose 4th on rough roads. It was lazy to remove the cardan, it took a year. Before selling the car, I changed everything back, installed the original gearbox driveshaft, but the 4th still gets knocked out on bumps. I adjusted the link in different ways - it still knocks out. The car is no longer mine, but it’s still obvious what needs to be changed in the gearbox.

If it stupidly knocks out on bumps, then this is 100% due to bad engine mounts

It’s thrown there under the hood, mom, don’t worry about the bumps!

I had this happen, no matter what gear you were driving in, you hit a bump and it turned off

I solved the problem radically, the front engine support was reinforced, the engine was stretched with additional fastening. I also saw the side and rear support of the box, reinforced, sold with them at all 100% will not turn off. But it feels like it has stopped turning off spontaneously!!

Source

Why might there be such interruptions?

The gearbox of any car is one of the most important components of the vehicle. Breakdowns in it can occur both due to improper operation and due to driving on bad roads. If on your Priora the first gear does not engage well or does not engage at all, then this is due to a breakdown of the gearbox.

VAZ Priora car

If your car was purchased second-hand and not from a showroom, then there is nothing to be surprised about. In any car, sooner or later the problem of unstable gear shifting may arise. Moreover, if at the beginning of the problem the speed is turned on, but poorly, then in the future the gearbox lever may not respond at all to the driver’s attempts. Of course, this is not very pleasant, because not every car enthusiast can move from a stop in second gear, and the situation on the road does not always allow this.

Let's consider the main malfunctions that may occur when it is difficult to change gears in a VAZ 2170 car:

• incomplete disengagement of the clutch. On Priors, the mechanical clutch cable can fly off. This can be determined very quickly: if the cable breaks, then the clutch pedal in the car will simply be recessed into the floor;
• failure of the gear drive control rod;
• failure of jet thrust;
• the fastening screws on the hinge or lever of the speed selection rod have become loose for some reason;
• incorrect adjustment of the gearbox speed shift drive;
• The service life has expired or the plastic parts in the gearbox control drive have failed;

VAZ Priora gearbox disassembled

• the link is poorly adjusted. This device in the car performs the function of connecting directly the gearbox with the lever in the cabin. Also, the plastic bushings on the rocker may wear out;
• synchronizer malfunction. Synchronizers are brass bushings designed for easier gear shifting. Because brass is a soft material, it can wear away over time. To understand that it is the synchronizers that have failed, when it is difficult to switch gearbox speeds, you will regularly hear an unpleasant crunching or grinding noise. If you only hear sound from the gearbox, but the gears are switched without problems, then be prepared to soon encounter difficult gear shifting;
• bearing failure. The problem is not so common, even rare, but nevertheless occurs. If the manual bearings are jammed, then one of the gearbox shafts may stop rotating, as a result of which not all speeds can be engaged. As a rule, this problem only appears when first gear is engaged;
• gearbox shaft malfunction. This element is not subject to physical wear or heavy loads, but the problem may be a manufacturing defect. If minor errors were made during its installation at the factory, the shaft will fail. In this case, not only may it be difficult to engage the first gear, but the entire gearbox may fail. As a result, the vehicle owner is subject to expensive repairs.

It’s worth noting right away that there is no way to determine a faulty gearbox shaft or bearings at home. Only a competent technician at a service station with expensive specialized equipment will help you do this. Therefore, if you encounter problems shifting the gearshift lever, then you can only hope that the problem lies in the adjustment.

Gearbox lever of a VAZ Priora car without a casing

What to do?

Next, we will look at several ways to solve the problem that can be done at home. The process of repairing a transmission is not such a simple task, so if you are not confident in your abilities, then do not try to do it yourself. It is better to contact specialists, because if you make even a small mistake, it can develop into more serious problems in the future.

Tools

Regardless of what kind of breakdown you have, prepare in advance all the necessary tools that you may need to disassemble the gearbox:

• slotted screwdriver;
• a set of heads for unscrewing bolts;
• set of wrenches;
• mounting blade;
• hammer;
• pliers with thin jaws;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• Litol lubricant;
• jack;
• container for draining transmission oil from the gearbox;
• technological plug for the hole in your robotic gearbox. A set of tools for dismantling and repairing the VAZ Priora gearbox
  

  Removing the manual transmission

  1. First of all, before disassembling the gearbox, it is necessary to drain the transmission fluid from the gearbox. To do this, find an oil drain hole under the bottom of the vehicle, place a previously prepared container and unscrew the plug. Wait 40-60 minutes until the oil is completely drained. Now you can begin dismantling the gearbox.

  To begin, find in the cabin under the instrument panel the fastening nut of the clutch cable housing, which is connected to the pedal. It needs to be unscrewed. To do this, you will need an "8" socket or wrench. When the nut is unscrewed, remove the stop from the bracket.

• Then you need to dismantle the locking element and the housing of the wear compensation device for the driven shaft linings from the clutch pedal pin. To do this, take a slotted screwdriver and pry out the element.
• Now remove the plastic bushing from the pedal and then inspect it. If the bushing shows signs of wear or any physical damage, the bushing should be replaced. Before installing it directly, take “Litol” and lubricate the element so that it does not become dry.
• Next, dismantle the rubber seal of the clutch pedal cable sheath - it is located in the engine compartment.
• Then you need to remove the end element from the cable fork, after pulling it forward in the direction of travel of the vehicle.

Special cases

Any transmission fails.

When driving at 9, there is a hum, when I press the clutch the hum does not stop. What's humming, bearings?

Hello everyone, help me, on 09, speed 2 stuck and won’t let go, what should I do? but we already sorted it out, now it’s set to 3 speed again, what should I do?

Possibly a bearing. Soon he’s still walking freely along the shaft. The shaft must be together with the internal part of the bearing. spin, and he rotates freely in it. It is also likely that this is the reason for the rumble.

I have a similar situation. I went through the box twice. I changed all the bearings, but the noise never went away. I'm already starting to get used to it.

The situation is exactly like this, it’s like my car in the video. Most likely you need to make a mistake in 5th gear, the only question is how to check. But one idea has appeared, you can remove the 5th gear cover, open two nuts, remove the 5th gear gears, close the cover, add oil, and then everything will be clear. I’m thinking about doing this one of these days. Report the results.

I checked the gearbox twice, but the second speed doesn’t turn on, I don’t know what to do. Please tell me!

Do not remove the 3.4 gear synchronizer hub. What to do? I read somewhere that you just have to film. And she sits there like a cast woman.

Sergey, check the release and clutch

The rear one flies out, I can’t figure out what’s wrong

The speed slips due to wear of the synchronizer (teeth on bronze gears).

I have this problem: there are 2 washers on the secondary shaft, one is a little thicker, the other is thinner, can anyone tell me which one comes first in order during assembly?

the thin one is placed under the bearing, the thick one is on top, there is a bushing and a needle on it

Why does the second speed turn on poorly? The rest work well and don’t make noise.

The situation is this: you squeeze the clutch, the noise disappears, the reverse speed does not work as well, when driving the noise does not disappear, what could be the reasons?

The third and fourth gears are poorly engaged

Tell me. Impact at start, as if there were huge gaps between the gears. The grenades are ok, I replaced the airbags, I also changed the satellite axle along with them and the six-pole axle, I replaced the clutch assembly. They say: sampling of backlashes and the box on metal. Can the problem be solved somehow?

This situation occurred when there was a blow to the gearbox body of the VAZ 2109. The 2nd and 4th gears stopped turning on and the idle speed stopped. What could happen? With the car turned off, all gears are switched on

Help! There is no neutral gear, what's the fun?

The problem is this: 2nd gear slips out when you let off the gas on the VAZ 21101, what could it be? Can I change the gear shift rod lock balls?

I can’t turn on the rear, the lever on the shaft turns, what can I do?

Mikhail, this is a disease, this is synchronicity!

I switched from first gear to second and can’t turn it off, what could be wrong?

Release bearing or input shaft bearing. Check the reverse gear

In the VAZ 2109, the second gear shifts into gear all the time with a crunch, you can only turn it on slowly, what should you do about it? And the clutch began to disappear.

There is a noise in the transmission as if the high-speed sprockets are hitting each other when driving in neutral and when pressing the clutch, what could be?

At first the rear one turned on poorly, but now only the third and fourth ones turn on. What should I do?

Guys, I ran into this problem. 2nd speed went out, changed the primary and secondary shafts along with gears. Everything worked well until the gearbox was removed and the release was replaced. I collected everything, drove about 300 kilometers, and the noise started. It looked like it was on the release side, he figured it out okay. Tell me what this could be? And yet, the right CV joint begins to rotate at increased speeds.

There is no reverse gear, tell me what to do and how much does it cost?

We've gone through the gearbox and the gears won't turn on!

Second gear does not engage

Hello! Tell me, the noise in neutral, types 1, 2, 3 squeak, types 4 and 5 howl. But sometimes without load everything is OK, they don’t knock out, they turn on well. What should I change? Thank you. PS And when you squeeze the clutch there is silence.

All the speeds are flying out, what should I do?

I installed row 18 on a VAZ 2113. Everything is new, but 3rd gear started jumping out, and it jumps out when you let off the gas. The lever comes off, but if you hold it, the car drives normally.

The article describes what problems most often occur with the model. Recommendations for eliminating them are also given. If you are the owner of a GAZ 3110, we advise you to read it - you will definitely find something useful.

This article describes: the signs characteristic of increased and decreased valve clearances, and two ways to adjust them. After reading this article, you will know exactly when and how to adjust the GAZ 53 valves.

This article explains what problems you may encounter and how to fix them, how to change the oil in the garage. In addition, you will receive advice on which checkpoint to give preference.

Clutch basket

Over time, the clutch basket fails on all cars with a manual transmission. Sometimes it’s due to wear and tear, sometimes the petals or the so-called “spider” break. Let me start, perhaps, with the “spider”, this is a mechanically fixed release bearing on several extensions (done like this on some VAZs), if the extension breaks, then it cannot be effectively fixed to the basket - the gears do not engage.

Next, the petals of the box break, or they become weakened. This leads to the fact that it is very difficult, almost impossible, to release the clutch disc. Therefore, the “speeds” do not switch – we just change the basket.

Well, the last wear and tear is the basket disk. It has a metal disk inside, and over time, especially from high mileage, wear forms there. When starting, the car will shake, and if the wear is very large, the gears may not shift.

In any case, we need to change the clutch basket.

First gear is not engaged when driving

Often when you put the car into first gear while the car is moving, it gets stuck and doesn't work. Once you start moving there is no problem. Some "experts" have even theorized that first gear should just start moving and should not be used during maneuvers.

This problem occurs because the injectors do not have time to equalize the torque of the gears, and the driver forcibly tries to connect them. The flywheel rotates much faster than the drive shaft and the teeth can fly if the force is high.

Don't be in a hurry to press the lever. Move it to neutral, push it lightly into the first gear position and wait for the synchronizers to do their job and the transmission begins.

READ Where is the Fuel Filter Citroen C4 Gasoline

For old boxes there are instructions for replacing gas. When downshifting while driving, move the lever to neutral, press the accelerator to increase speed, and then shift smoothly. This method is used by owners of preserved vintage cars, the price of which has increased significantly in recent years.

Source

As you already understood, we will talk about a manual “box” and about shifting gears (or rather not shifting) to it. I have a lot of experience in this area, I have personally repaired cars such as VAZ 2114, VAZ 2110 (and indeed the 10th family). To say that foreign cars have global differences, so they are special. NO! So, if your speeds are not "cut off", the reasons may be similar. In general, the article will be useful, in the end, as always, the video.

God comes to me with so many questions, especially from novice drivers of our VAZ! Especially with front wheel drive, because the rear wheel drive lever was installed in a manual transmission. I want to answer everyone right away. the problem of non-inclusion may not always be cardinal! Often these are small things, just from time to time something shakes or unscrews, as a rule, this happens in 50% of cases.

Therefore, I will try to break the material into two main components. simple and complex faults.

I suggest starting with simple mistakes.

How to recognize the presence of a malfunction?

To check the serviceability of a particular vehicle unit, the driver must turn off the radio before starting the trip. With the radio turned off, you can easily determine whether there are any extraneous noises and knocks when the mechanisms are operating. The following factors may indicate problems with the gearbox:

• A characteristic crunching sound when engaging a gear (and it can only appear in one of the gears);
• Crackling noise when returning the lever to neutral.

If at least one of the above symptoms appears, the driver needs to identify and eliminate the malfunction as quickly as possible. Otherwise, if you ignore this problem, more serious problems may arise.

Extending the service life of gearboxes

You will be able to use your car for many years without going to car repair shops if you can follow basic recommendations. They will extend the service life of the gearbox, minimize possible problems, breakdowns and the need for repair work.

Transmission shaft assemblies

There are only two recommendations.

1. Always try to monitor the oil level in the gearbox. If it drops, be sure to top it up immediately, do not delay the procedure until later. When the oil becomes unusable, change it completely, rather than fill in the missing amount.
2. Avoid aggressive use, do not jerk the gears sharply, accelerate smoothly, and brake similarly. A simple caring attitude towards the gearbox will allow you to avoid wear and tear and numerous breakdowns.

As you can see, solving problems with checkpoints is not so easy. Therefore, the best option is to prevent their occurrence.

Advice for motorists

Above we have already talked about why the reverse gear on the VAZ 2114 does not engage and how to correct this situation. But it should also be noted that proper and timely care of the gearbox will help either completely avoid such a situation or postpone it for as long as possible.

There are only two basic rules for this care:

1. Change gears, as well as accelerate and brake the vehicle as smoothly as possible, without jerking.
2. Periodically check the oil level, replenish it as it is used, and also replace the entire volume if it is worn out.

These simple rules will help to significantly increase the service life of the entire box and its individual parts.

Replacing and adjusting the gearbox driveshaft

So, if only reverse does not work, and all other modes do not fail, then you will need to replace the universal joint and adjust it. To do this, prepare a new spare part, a gear selector shaft seal, a set of keys, a hammer and several screwdrivers of different sizes.

Carry out the work according to the instructions:

Place the machine on an overpass or over a pit. Find the gearbox from below and loosen the clamp bolts on its drive rod. Remove the actuator completely from the stem. Using a screwdriver, pull the boot towards the unit. Often the boot is completely damaged during this step, in which case it can be removed and then a new one installed

Unscrew the fixing screw on the universal joint. Carefully tap the driveshaft off the assist shaft with a hammer. Remove the boot if you haven't damaged it previously

Install a new oil seal on the speed shaft. Install a new boot, place the cardan on the shaft so that the position of the fixing screw coincides with the recess on the shaft. Tighten the retaining screw and place the rod on the rod, but do not tighten the clamp. To make the adjustment, ask an assistant to move the gearshift lever to the neutral position and a short distance to the right. He should hold it in this position while you tighten the clamp.

If the reason for the failure of the reverse gear was hidden in the cardan of the carriage, then you will no longer have problems after this repair.

Troubleshooting

Many transmission malfunctions that cause the reverse gear to disappear or fall out can be eliminated without removing the unit from the car.

If the cause is a loosening of the bolt securing the clamp on the rod, then to correct the defect it is necessary:

1. Place the car on a lift.
2. Completely loosen the clamp nut.
3. Place the gearshift lever in the fully engaged reverse gear position.
4. Fully engage reverse gear at the gearbox using the shift rod on the crankcase.
5. Tighten the clamp mounting bolt.

Backstage adjustment

If tightening the clamp does not help get rid of the problem, then you need to check the condition of the shift drive parts. One of the reasons why the reverse gear does not engage may be a poorly adjusted rocker.

To make adjustments to the mechanism, you may need the following tools:

• two wrenches with a size of 13 mm, preferably a socket design;
• any wrench or 10 mm socket;
• small hammer;
• slotted screwdriver.

Since the cause of malfunction of the link can be wear of parts, spare parts may be needed:

• universal joint of the rocker;
• Sometimes the shift rod seal may need to be replaced.

Two people are required to adjust the rocker or replace parts of its drive. One person must change gears from the passenger compartment, and the second must adjust the travel of the shift rods.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Provide access to the bottom of the car by placing it on a pit or a lift.
2. Using a 13 mm wrench, loosen the clamp installed on the gear shift rod.
3. Remove the rod from the box rod.
4. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the boot.
5. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the fixing bolt on the cardan shaft.
6. Knock off the cardan shaft with light blows of a hammer. It is important not to damage the shaft.
7. Remove the universal joint seal boot.
8. If there is an oil leak, the sealing gland on the box rod must be replaced.
9. Install a new boot (or leave the old one if it is intact) and install the universal joint on the shaft.
10. Align the hole on the cardan with the notch on the shaft.
11. Tighten the 10 mm clamp and install the boot completely in place.
12. Install the rod on the cardan rod and adjust the gearshift lever travel.
13. The second person should sit in the driver's seat, set the gear shift lever to neutral, move it slightly to the right and hold it in that position.
14. After this, you need to tighten the 13 mm clamp nut.

Typically, after such a repair, the reverse gear starts to engage without problems. In addition, the operation of the entire gear selection mechanism on the VAZ-2109 becomes clearer.

Replacing the backstage

Changing the gearbox oil

If the oil seal on the rod is damaged, oil leaks out of the gearbox housing, and dirt can get into the box itself. These factors may be the reason why reverse gear stops engaging. In addition, the oil in the box loses its properties during operation, so it must be replaced preventively at least once every 35–40 thousand kilometers. Before replacing, you need to check the condition of the oil in the box. To do this, you need to remove the oil dipstick installed in the gearbox housing and visually assess the quality of the oil. The presence of metal and dirt particles in the oil on the dipstick is unacceptable. The oil itself should be quite liquid and not stick to your hands in a thick layer.

To replace, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. New oil. When purchasing oil, you need to consider the type of gearbox. For fairly rare four-speed gearboxes, three liters of oil are required, for newer five-speed ones - 3.3 liters. The oil itself must have a tolerance of 80W-85, the manufacturer does not matter.
2. A container for draining old oil with a volume of at least 4 liters.
3. A funnel with a hose for pouring new oil or a syringe.
4. Wrenches 12 and 17 mm of any type.
5. Rags and cleaning solvent.

The actual work order is as follows:

1. Place the car with the heated gearbox on the pit.
2. Remove the rubber plug from the gearbox ventilation valve installed on the top of the crankcase.
3. Clean the valve and plug from dust and dirt. It is convenient to clean parts with thin wire and a rag.
4. Reinstall clean parts.
5. Wipe off dirt from the bottom of the box. Unscrew the plug on the bottom of the box housing.
6. Place a container under the drain hole and drain the oil. It will completely merge in at least 20-25 minutes.
7. After this, screw the drain plug back into place and carefully tighten it with a wrench. First, the plug and hole must be thoroughly wiped with a rag.
8. Pour fresh oil through the oil level dipstick hole in the box.
9. During filling, it is necessary to check the oil level, which normally should be between o and “MAX” on the dipstick rod.
10. If there is an overflow, the oil can be pumped out with a large medical syringe with a tube on the spout.
11. Within a few days after the change, it is advisable to check the level and appearance of the oil. You also need to make sure that there are no leaks through the plug and box seals.

Causes

The reasons why reverse gear engagement is poor or difficult may be as follows:

• loosening of the fastening clamp of the rocker, due to which the length of the rod is not enough to fully engage the gear;
• jamming of the reverse speed lock;
• spring breakage and debris getting into the guide grooves of the gear selection mechanism;
• spontaneous loosening of the selection mechanism mounting bolts;
• the clamp bolt is cut off;
• wear of the clutch disc and release bearing;
• incorrect adjustment of the clutch and clutch pedal;
• low oil level in the box or the need to replace it.

The appearance of a crunch due to improper operation of the transmission

It is important to note that often a crunching sound during gear shifting indicates improper operation of the transmission. Therefore, in order for the manual transmission to last for a long time, you should follow some recommendations.

It is necessary to promptly change the transmission oil. Not everyone knows that this fluid must be changed periodically in both automatic and manual transmissions. Of course, a manual transmission does not need to change the oil too often, but after the mileage crosses the threshold of 70,000 km, you should definitely visit a service station.

If this fact is left unattended, metal shavings and dirt will accumulate in the liquid, resulting in insufficient lubrication and the occurrence of a crunching sound. The same sound can also appear due to the fact that there is not enough oil in the transmission. Adding oil or replacing it will help solve the problem.

New or refurbished old?

If replacing the gearbox cannot be avoided, it is worth considering one very attractive option - installing a rebuilt gearbox. To do this, companies purchase old, damaged boxes, restore them to the highest possible quality and offer installation with a guarantee.

Disassembled gearbox

As practice shows, such gearboxes are approximately 30-70% cheaper than purchasing a new gearbox.

There is only one important condition for successful savings on such significant repairs. It must be a reliable, trusted company

Such companies value their own reputation, so they do not deal with fakes or low-quality repairs. In order to receive positive customer feedback and attract new customers, they simply must do everything well, conscientiously. That’s why today there are fly-by-night companies and companies where, over the years of work, they have established themselves as a reliable and responsible specialist in repairing and replacing gearboxes. You yourself understand perfectly well who you need to contact if you have problems with your box.

Opening the black box or treating reversing lights

I’ve been making frequent recordings in recent days, but it’s empty and thick :-D, but oh well, today we’ll talk about how I struggled with the reverse lights.

About two months ago, when the tree was still standing, I took it to the car wash, washed up all right, drove it home, left the car behind the fence and went home. In the evening I went to drive the car into the garage, I turned on the rear and my tidy went out, the side and the rear too. . . What the f*ck did you think, let’s run to GOOGLE, they say fuse, look, idiot. . I look at the fuse and it’s not a thorn.

Here it is F16 - highlighted in red

I put another one on and turn on the rear one and the same story, well, that means the black box lock (aka fuse block or fuse box) I should have thought of sticking it under the drain. . . on the street there was no desire to fiddle with an oak tree with a block, and the wires were oak, so I took the easier route, threw the chip off the sensor and forgot about it, washed it down, and killed it. . . You can drive like this, of course, but it’s not comme il faut, especially in a parking lot when you’re driving and people don’t even know which way. Today I began to solve this problem, first I found out which contacts of the fuse block the wires from the sensor go to (Base X6, contacts 2 - green and 12 - orange), threw off the CYA, took this block and rang the wires to the sensor with a multimeter for a short circuit (a goat in the people) , the wires are fine, let's continue digging. I took it apart and let’s see what’s wrong where, in principle, all the normal tracks have not oxidized, there’s nothing to short-circuit either, but it’s one thing to just look and another to call and make sure that everything is fine here. To dial the tracks I had to delve a little into the diagram. From the diagram it follows that “+” goes from fuse F16 to the 12th contact of the X6 block and goes to the sensor (orange wire), passing through the sensor it returns to the 2nd contact of the X6 block (green wire) and from it goes to the X9 block Pin 16 (Output for reversing lamps)

I sketched out what goes where

Connection of blocks X6 and X9

You can see from the photos and the diagram that everything is simple here, I called, everything is fine, there is no goat, I started looking further. . . I dismantled the rear lights, maybe there is a goat walking from them and butting, but here too everything is in order, no hints of a goat, the wire from the CY to the lights rang, everything is also in order. . . Then great thoughts began about where and what could be. . . After sitting, thinking about it, weighing all the arguments and evidence, I decided to check the sensor itself, because... The fuse blows only after reverse gear is engaged, everything is in order in the control unit and wiring. I rang the contacts on the ground sensor, everything is fine and I started thinking again. . . then something pulled me to turn on the reverse gear and ring IIIIII BINGO again, one contact in the on state goes to ground!

Here it is, the green wire contact

How are car wash and reverse gear sensor related? There are mudguards in the engine compartment; a jet of pressure simply could not get to the sensor and damage it! I don’t understand shit at all. . . but the fact remains that the sensor needs to be replaced. I changed the sensor, assembled the fuse box, stuck it in place and here is the result

” />

Everything works great

Literally a week before, the dimensions on the left side and the lighting in everything in the cabin disappeared, the fuses were intact, the problem turned out to be in the CY

The solder contact spot between the bottom board and the top board is highlighted.

The soldering was oxidized and the output was only 5 volts instead of 12, 5 minutes of work with a soldering iron, two strokes of nail polish and everything returned to normal)))

To everyone who finished reading this entry, my respect, because not everyone will read this dregs))) Of course, it was possible to write everything in short, but I don’t like writing like “I spat, stuck it, put it on top with tape,” and I wanted to tell the full story of my misadventures!) ) So don’t rush to immediately throw off the fuse block and tear it to pieces, everything may turn out to be much simpler))) Learn from other people’s mistakes)))

Crunching noise in the right front wheel

The problem was that there was a crunching sound in the right front wheel, I thought the CV joint looked at the boot, it was intact! What could it be?

I read on the forum, everyone says that the khan's boot has a CV joint, but it's intact. A friend says that this is a bearing in the hubs, but again there is no noise. It crunches on pits and when turning, I thought it might be a ball joint, but I read that they say then I would feel every pit, but the pits go through normally.

Honestly, I don't know what it could be. can anyone advise?

Vitz car, if that's important. On a couple of cars in the region of a hundred thousand, the drives began to crunch.

normal phenomenon

On a couple of cars in the region of a hundred thousand, the drives began to crunch... a normal phenomenon

To begin with, it would be nice to make sure that it is the drive and on which side... if you go to the service people, there is a decent chance that they will tell you to change two... I don’t know why, but they love it..

take the corefan, put him on the street and steer around him until he is sure which side is cracking... or you can force the taxi driver to listen.. they do it well)) .. then you go to an office that sells drives, buy a grenade with an anther there collect and look for someone to supply it for you.. the internal thing usually lasts longer

Good afternoon, dears! Finally, I decided to contribute to the problems with the front suspension on the Internet. I hope this text will help someone in the future if we solve the problem, of course!

History of diagnosis. 1 day:

— Transition to new summer tires on new wheels from 17 (winter) to 18 (summer) radius; — Travel through 1000 km. after changing shoes on the paving stones next to the Zoo in Moscow (metro station Barikadnaya); — A quiet tapping sound on the left side of the wheel with kickback in the pedals and on the bottom after 5 km. when driving straight at a speed of 20 km/h. along the Garden Ring; — Accompaniment by tapping for another 10-15 km. when moving straight, but without any kickback in the pedals, as if the shocks had shifted even further to the left of the pedals, closer to the wheel. There is no vibration in the steering wheel, the gearbox works perfectly, the bolts on the wheels are tightened; — When approaching the house, the sound began to behave differently: from tapping and skipping (as if metal had caught on metal and moved on), everything turned to “combing” the metal with a metal comb (the sound of a children’s xylophone, if you move the hammer from low to high notes) ;

History of diagnosis. Day 2 and subsequent days:

— I stopped by a local service station near my house. Changed the pads. We sat down with the master, he heard everything, from tapping to “combing.” They could not immediately determine. I got on the lift. The wheel bearing was shallow immediately, they say the sound is not characteristic (but I continue to blame it), the ball joints are in order (new, original), the levers and silent blocks (new, original), the shock absorber is visually in order, the internal CV joint with an intact boot, the CV joint the outer one has a whole boot, the pads are new... The rack is ok, the box is ok. They lifted it up on a lift, spun the wheels, tugged everything, and revved it up. It turns out that the symptoms appear only under load on the wheels. They didn’t take the money, they told me to drive until the symptoms became more obvious. — I overcame the feeling that perhaps some pebble got between the brake disc protection and the disc (but did not bend the protection). The theory requires testing; — I continue to drive with a crunch that periodically appears and disappears. It feels like the “reaction” begins under load on the wheels and when driving over small irregularities (similar to an internal CV joint); — When driving from 80 km/h. no symptoms;

Candidates:

— Wheel bearing — Inner CV joint

Friends, what is your opinion?

PS One of these days I’ll go to VAGplus in Perovo

. Problem solved

— Replacement of tie rod ends — Replacement of left outer CV joint — Replacement of right wheel bearing — Wheel alignment recommended

Thanks Dislike Marty 05 Jan 2008

That’s it, the end has come! The clutch pedal has failed, the clutch has fallen apart! Now we can’t do without repairs, so I’m thinking about installing a new box or repairing this one with some modernization? What do you think? What will be cheaper?

Happy New Year, sir! You know, I’m always interested in the first question - how do you drive? I don’t want to itch and be known in the forum as a “smart guy” BUT. You can kill a Maybach in a day, or you can drive a “penny” for 30 years. Based on the riding style and accordingly put the salary on your horse. Sporty - install ceramic clutches, Brembo brakes, lei 98, average - install conveyor or, if you have the appropriate income, better e/p. But this is my personal opinion, without claims to absolutes.

https://www.zr.ru/content/articles/911224-neispravnosti-mkp-pochemu-stal/https://uremont.com/publications/articles/pocemu-vyletaet-vtoraa-peredacahttps://xn--2111 -43da1a8c.xn--p1ai/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2080https://www.semerkainfo.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11801https://www.lada-forum.ru/index.php? showtopic=13659

Reverse gear does not engage: common breakdowns

So, if engaging reverse gear is difficult or completely impossible, this breakdown is a common problem that can be encountered in different vehicles when changing gears.

Moreover, the rear does not engage both on manual and automatic transmissions (the reverse speed of the automatic transmission has disappeared)

Naturally, in such a situation, it is important to discover the cause of the malfunction and eliminate the breakdown, since it is simply impossible to operate the car normally without reverse gear (the vehicle is actually deprived of reverse gear). Let's figure it out

Let's start with a manual transmission and consider the question of why reverse gear does not engage in a manual transmission. First of all, with a manual transmission the reverse gear fails much more often than with an automatic transmission. As a rule, the first signs of problems are a grinding, crackling or crunching sound in the reverse gear when engaged, the reverse gear is difficult to engage, it is difficult to engage the speed after a while, etc.

As for the main malfunctions, we can highlight the following:

The clutch does not disengage completely. As you know, the clutch connects the engine and the gearbox, and at the moment of changing gears the driver must depress the clutch pedal and “disconnect” the internal combustion engine from the gearbox. After engaging the gear, the pedal is released, the clutch “closes” and the torque is again transmitted to the wheels.

So, if the clutch is not completely disengaged, the gearbox is not completely disconnected from the engine. This leads to the fact that all gears are difficult to engage. At the same time, on many cars, first speed and reverse do not have synchronizers. As a result, clutch problems are most noticeable when engaging reverse gear.

In such a situation, when trying to engage a gear, a crunching and grinding noise is heard in the box

To eliminate the breakdown, you need to pay special attention to the clutch (condition of the clutch disc, basket, release bearing, etc.). You also need to check the clutch adjustments, the quality of the pedal, etc.

The oil level in the gearbox is low or the gear oil has lost its properties. As practice shows, there is a common misconception among drivers that the manual transmission is filled with oil for the entire service life of the car. In fact, a maximum of 100 thousand km. Even the highest quality gear oil becomes unusable. And this is subject to fairly gentle operation.

If the car is used in difficult conditions (driving around the city, irregular pace, constantly switching speeds “up” and “down”, short trips, temperature changes, etc.), then the oil in the box requires replacement every 50-60 thousand. km. The fact is that the properties of the liquid change, additives are activated, dirt, products of mechanical wear of the box and various deposits accumulate in the oil.

The gearbox linkage needs to be adjusted; the rods or gearbox drive levers are deformed. Often, it is after diagnosing the condition of the rocker that it becomes clear why reverse gear on a Lada and various foreign-made cars (especially old ones or with high mileage) does not engage. Owners of front-wheel drive VAZ models are well aware that a poorly adjusted rocker is the reason why the reverse gear does not engage or is knocked out.

The solution in such a situation is to adjust the manual transmission gate, which can significantly improve the clarity of the inclusions and obtain the necessary softness. Also, in some cases, owners remove the standard mechanism and install a short-throw slide, but in this case you need to be prepared for the need for more careful adjustment. As for the gearbox rods and drives, these elements must be inspected for possible damage or breakage, after which they are replaced.

Design features of the gearbox. Often on budget cars, reverse and first gears do not have synchronizers. The absence of these elements, on the one hand, simplifies the design of the box, but on the other hand, difficulties arise when engaging reverse gear and first speed.

Features of foreign cars using the example of some brands

In a Mercedes Adego, among other things, failure of the second gear can be caused by a failure of the rocker (especially with a mileage of 200 thousand km). Then there are two options for the development of events:

it is necessary to replace the scenes (if there is a lot of play);

repair is possible (when the “play” is weak).

If the gear is engaged without resistance and unnecessary sounds, but it is necessary to keep the second gear from “flying out,” the reason may lie in the synchronizer retaining ring. In this case, you will have to disassemble the gearbox.

For Chevrolet Lanos, problems with second gear, judging by reviews from car owners, are more common after 100 thousand miles on a “cold” car. A common cause is pin and rod wear.

​​​​​​​

Finding a convenient auto repair shop that you can trust to repair your second gear is easy at Uremont.com. To do this you will need to do the following:

make a request (if you cannot drive with a failed transmission, you can even call a tow truck);

after the responses arrive (within 10 minutes), you can evaluate potential performers (see the ratings and reviews of portal users);

Questions about price can either be indicated immediately in the application or asked in a special chat (representatives of partner car services will answer you).

Thanks Don't like aleks77 21 Dec 2007

There are relatively few hassles, but if you already know how to remove them. It’s better to take an assistant and work in the pit; you can do it without it, but it’s more inconvenient.

I tried to remove the box myself, everything was done according to the instructions, the three of us did it. they evaporated, the body was broken when they tried to knock out the wheel drives, and besides, everything was worn out. In the end, everything was collected as it was and we went to the service center. And there they were amazed at how cleverly they do everything, in general the advice is this: if you have a friend who has already encountered boxes, you can try to remove them. and the first time, in my opinion, is better to go to the service, I was a 41st Muscovite before - I went through it twice, and no such problems arose, but here for this bolt - one special key - for that another. for example, turn the starter key to 15! needed. These are the pies (by the way, after repairs at the service center, the case was covered with cold welding, so far it’s holding up)