How to check the ignition coil of a VAZ 21124 16 valves with a multimeter

To do the job you will need a multimeter.

1. We prepare the car for work (see “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair”).

2. Remove the decorative trim of the engine (see “Decorative trim of the engine - removal and installation”).

3. Press the lock of the wiring harness block.

While holding the latch in this position, disconnect the wire block from the ignition coil of the first cylinder.

4. Turning on the ignition, use a voltmeter to measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the wiring harness block (the numbering of the terminals is marked on the ignition coil).

5. Similarly, we check the supply voltage to the ignition coils of the second, third and fourth cylinders.

The voltage at the terminal must be at least 12 V. If the voltage does not reach the block or it is less than 12 V, then the battery is discharged, there is a malfunction in the power circuit, or the ECU is faulty.

When the voltage measurement is complete, turn off the ignition.

6. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the coil terminals. The electrical resistance between pins 1-3 should be close to zero (about 1 ohm). The resistance between pins 1-2 and 2-3 should be high (tend to infinity).

The faulty coil must be replaced.

10 mm socket wrench

Unscrew the bolt securing the ignition coil to the cylinder head cover.

8. Remove the ignition coil from the spark plug well.

Install the ignition coil in reverse order.

I think that there is no need to talk about the fact that VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 engines come in both 8 and 16 valves. In previous articles we have already looked at the process of replacing a module with an 8-cell one. motor. Today we’ll look at the example of another power unit - 16V.

On the one hand, this is convenient, and if one of them fails, you won’t have to change everything. On the other hand, maintenance is more expensive when replacing all these parts at once.

It’s quite easy to do the replacement yourself and for this you will need:

socket head 10
extension
ratchet handle

Engine ignition coils 21124 (1.6i 16v) - check and replacement

To do the job you will need a multimeter.
1. We prepare the car for work (see “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair”).

2. Remove the decorative trim of the engine (see “Decorative trim of the engine - removal and installation”).

3. Press the lock of the wiring harness block.

While holding the latch in this position, disconnect the wire block from the ignition coil of the first cylinder.

4. Turning on the ignition, use a voltmeter to measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the wiring harness block (the numbering of the terminals is marked on the ignition coil).

5. Similarly, we check the supply voltage to the ignition coils of the second, third and fourth cylinders.

When the voltage measurement is complete, turn off the ignition.

The faulty coil must be replaced.

10 mm socket wrench

Unscrew the bolt securing the ignition coil to the cylinder head cover.

8. Remove the ignition coil from the spark plug well.

Install the ignition coil in reverse order.

Source

Original or analogue?

There are more than 10 different manufacturers of ignition coils on the market. Depending on this, the price for IKZ can vary significantly. For example, good imported ignition coils for VAZ engines can now be found for 1500-1800 rubles. Cheaper Russian analogues will be 2 times cheaper.

It is worth considering that a fake part will have a significantly shorter service life than the original part. For example, according to reviews from owners, after installing Chinese ignition coils, the “cylinder misfires” error almost immediately appeared and the engine began to tune up. After 500-1000 km, the ignition coils completely failed.

Ways to independently check the ignition module

Some gasoline engines that are installed on modern domestic and imported cars are equipped with ignition modules, which are a pulsed high-voltage current source. There are situations when these devices fail, leading to a complete or partial loss of performance of the car engine. Ways to check for a malfunction in the ignition module in a garage are covered in this article.

Design and principle of operation of the ignition module

Some old-school motorists call the modules double-spark coils, which makes sense. After all, the coil is the predecessor of the ignition module in the technical evolutionary chain. The module is a paired design consisting of two pairs of windings (primary and secondary) and a switch that alternately switches low-voltage current from one coil to another. In some models of double-spark coils, the commutator is structurally located outside the block.

The operation of the module is controlled from an electronic unit that collects and analyzes information from various working components of the engine. The block, unlike the classic coil, has 4 sockets for connecting high voltage wires going to the spark plugs. The pulse occurs in pairs, first at terminals 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. That is, each of the built-in coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. A spark occurs simultaneously, as a pair.

At the input, the ignition module has a connector with four terminals. Usually most models have markings opposite them. Pulses from the Hall sensor alternately arrive at contacts A and B, serving as a signal to switch the commutator from one primary winding to another. C and D – ground and power supply (12 V), respectively.

Possible causes of failure

The weak point of the ignition coils and modules is the secondary winding, which generates a high voltage pulse. A coil break or breakdown may occur in it. The following factors lead to this phenomenon:

use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
frequent attempts to check the spark.

The high-voltage pulse arising in the secondary winding must be realized (spent). If this does not happen (if the integrity of a high voltage wire is broken, for example), a high-energy electrical pulse seeks an outlet. He will find it, with a high degree of probability, in the thin secondary winding.

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Before replacing the ignition coils, make sure that they are the cause of the malfunction. To do this, you can check the ICP with a multimeter. Some car enthusiasts are trying to repair IKZ using a heat seal.

buy individual ignition coils in online stores (there is a discount for site users in some stores)

So, let’s vote and leave reviews about individual ignition coils for the VAZ of the tenth family:

How long did the old IKZ last?
Which company did you choose?
Did you change one IKZ or a set at once?

ps Off-topic comments will be deleted.

Which brand of custom ignition coils is best to buy?

Source

Design and principle of operation of the ignition module

That is, each of the built-in coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. A spark occurs simultaneously, as a pair.

This is what one of the ignition module models looks like. The connector for connecting incoming wires is visible at the top.

Possible causes of failure

use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
frequent attempts to check the spark.

Often, a module malfunction occurs when the integrity of poor-quality factory soldering of wires going to the switch elements is violated. This happens from vibration. Also, the cause of non-working coils can be a banal contact failure in the incoming connector. Another factor leading to a malfunction of the ignition unit is often moisture that gets on the device during washing or driving in unusual conditions.

How to spot a fake

A few examples of how to visually distinguish original (high-quality) Bosch ignition coils from counterfeits :

Under the casing of the original, a plastic case is visible (the fake has a metal case).
There are two stamps on the original casing. They are not present on the fake.
The outer edge of the original mounting axle box has a protrusion. There is no protrusion on the fake.
On the fake there is no high voltage symbol (lightning) next to the mounting axle box.
On the original plug, the font is made more clearly, the surface of the plug is better processed.
The coding profile of the counterfeit plug is more rounded.
The fake contacts are noticeably thicker and more rounded.
The original has traces of casting.
The factory number on the original is circled in an oval.
The counterfeit rubber tip does not have a manufacturing date, product type number or logo.
The extreme turns of the contact spring of the original are wound more tightly.

Other distinctive features with photos are presented in the report, which site users can download:

To download files you need to log in to the site.

Before purchasing new IKZ, make sure that the old ones are faulty (how to check ignition coils). Or maybe try to repair them? Leave reviews about ignition coils and your recommendations in the comments.

Let us remind you that the smooth operation of engines also depends on spark plugs. Do you know which candles are best to choose?

Source

Symptoms of a problem

It is extremely rare for two built-in coils to fail at once, so it is more likely to be possible to start the engine with a faulty unit. However, even an inexperienced driver will immediately suspect something is wrong. The malfunction will appear as follows:

unstable (floating) idle speed;
the engine has difficulty picking up speed;
characteristic sound of the engine (triple);
jerking when accelerating (while moving).

Operating a car with such a breakdown is possible (you can drive to a garage or car service station), but it is not advisable unless absolutely necessary.

Similar signs of unstable engine operation are possible with a number of other ignition or fuel supply faults. To differentiate possible breakdowns, the performance of the ignition unit should be determined. It would be useful to check the contacts of the wires coming to the device, as well as their integrity.

Checking module power

Before testing the performance of the coils, you should make sure that a possible breakdown is not caused by a loss of power to the device. First, you need to try to simply restore contact by moving it several times or disconnecting/connecting the block of wires included in the connector. If such manipulation does not lead to improved engine performance, a tester (multimeter) is used to determine the quality of incoming pulses.

The block of wires is removed from the connector. On the block, each terminal (A, B, C, D) has a corresponding socket. Testing with the engine running is done as follows.

The first contact of the tester is in socket D, the second is to ground. The multimeter switch position is 20 volts. If there is power, the tester shows 12 volts.
The first contact is in socket C, the second is ground. Switch on ohmmeter (20 Ohm). Normally it shows less than 1 ohm, that is, the mass is normal.
The first contact is in socket B, the second is ground. 20 volt switch. The norm is not less than 0.3 volts. If this is so, it means that a normal pulse is coming from the Hall sensor to position B.
Contact A is checked similarly to the previous one.

If such a check shows the norm, you need to test the module. If not, look for the cause in the electrical circuit to the coil.