How to remove the heater and its pipes with your own hands: replacing the heater radiator on Audi 80 and 100?

Author: Ivan Baranov

In order for the automobile heating system to operate normally, it is necessary to maintain the working condition of all its components and mechanisms. One of these is a radiator device. If this element fails, the driver will know about it the first time the heater is turned on. How to replace the Audi 80 heater radiator and in what cases it is necessary - read in this article.

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We replace the heater radiator on Audi 80 and 100 cars on our own

In order for the automobile heating system to operate normally, it is necessary to maintain the working condition of all its components and mechanisms. One of these is a radiator device. If this element fails, the driver will know about it the first time the heater is turned on. How to replace the Audi 80 heater radiator and in what cases it is necessary - read in this article.

Common problems

Typically, the following signs indicate a malfunction of the cooling system:

• Engine boiling or, conversely, overcooling;
• Antifreeze leak.

Temperature jumps are reflected in instrument readings, and the emergency overheating indicator also begins to blink. In some cases, sensors also fail and the failure cannot be detected immediately.

Causes of problems

This happens for the following reasons:

• Contamination of the core or outer part of the radiator;
• Wear and tear, leakage;
• Worn centrifugal pump, loose transmission belt;
• The radiator fan drive is broken;
• Thermostat failure;
• Cracks in the cooling jacket, resulting in antifreeze leakage;
• Cylinder head cooling;
• Breakage of the expansion tank valves or its uncorking (active evaporation of liquid occurs).

Typically, such problems are identified during a technical inspection. However, you can “catch” some signs that the radiator will soon fail. To do this, it is necessary to inspect the tank before each trip, or more precisely, its integrity and the level of liquid in it. Normally, it should be between the maximum and minimum marks. If it drops too low, top it up (use the same brand of fluid).

After the engine has warmed up, carefully unscrew the expansion tank cap. If the fluid is below the minimum, it means it is leaking - the hoses or pipes are damaged.

Heater device

The new generation of Audi 80 in the B3 body was officially presented in the early autumn of 1986. In Europe, sales of the new product started in 1987. Other markets received the updated Audi 80 a little later.

The B3 platform was used as the basis for creating the car. But here it is important to note that the connection with the platforms from Volkswagen B at Audi was severed. That is, the new B3 truck for Audi was not the same as the platform from the Passat B3.

The B3 body was very popular. Largely due to its aerodynamics and full galvanization, which allowed the plant to provide a guarantee not for 8 years, but for 12. Since 1991, they began to produce the next generation in the B4 body. There were no fundamental changes, but Audi still introduced certain innovations.

Many Audi 80 owners prefer to independently repair and maintain their car and its systems, including the heating system. But to work with it, you first need to study the device and circuit.

On Audi 80 cars, the heater is designed extremely simply, regardless of the body type in front of you. B3 and B4 have approximately the same circuit, therefore the design of the Audi 80 stove is considered identical.

This greatly facilitates independent repairs and finding faulty elements without outside help. Audi 80 cannot be considered ideal cars in terms of self-service, since some stages of repair are objectively difficult to cope with.

Stove body

Although this statement does not apply in any way to the heating system of a German vehicle. If we talk about the design and layout of the stove on the Audi 80 B3 and B4, then these cars include:

• heat exchanger, that is, radiator;
• body consisting of 2 halves;
• mounting bracket;
• connection board with resistor;
• fresh air dampers;
• temperature dampers;
• electric fan;
• air ducts;
• tubes and pipes;
• electric fan fuse.

As for the malfunction of the Audi 80 stove, in most cases this is due to the controls located in the cabin, the radiator or the electric fan.

Interior heater

Scheme of work

To ensure that fresh air enters the interior of the Audi 80 B3 or B4, a ventilation system is used for this. The air flows around the stove body and, due to the presence of special dampers, enters the outlet nozzles.

When the heating system is set to heating mode, the cold air coming from the external environment is heated. This is provided by the radiator of the heating system, which is heated by the engine coolant.

The stove radiator itself is located inside the heating system housing. The fresh air that flows through the unit is heated by the hot sections of the radiator, after which the heated air ends up inside the cabin.

In Audi 80 cars in B3 and B4 bodies, interior heating is controlled by the air method. That is, the driver sets the temperature based on the ratio of hot and cold air. For such tasks, a control unit with a temperature damper regulator is provided here.

It is important to note that the heater on the Audi 80 involves the use of a four-stage heating fan. To increase or decrease the blowing power, select the appropriate operating mode. To set the fan to a particular rotation speed, connected resistances are used. The resistances themselves can be found inside the electric fan connection board. If any of the resistors fails, then the Audi 80 car owner has to change the entire board complete with resistors.

There are no significant differences between the heating system on the Audi 80 in the B3 and B4 body. In the case of the B4 body, as with the operation of the heater on the B3, counter flows of air pass through the openings located between the windshield and the hood, after which they enter the cabin using the air supply box.

Radiator and heater duct

Air supply is carried out naturally and forcefully. In the second case, the electric fan comes into operation. The only nuance that can distinguish B3 from B4 is the likelihood that the latter has a factory air filter. It allows you to pre-clean the air before it enters the cabin.

When the heater turns on, a special damper redirects air flow to the radiator of the heating system, where hot antifreeze circulates. If the stove is turned off, then the air will flow into the cabin from the air intakes, bypassing the heater radiator.

The control unit provides the ability to adjust the temperature, airflow intensity (different speeds of the electric fan), as well as the direction of air flow. There are corresponding symbols on the regulator that help you understand how to direct air to the legs, to the windshield, or directly to the sides of the driver and passengers.

Replacement instructions

Replacing the Audi 100 heater radiator is not a particularly simple task; to complete it you will need several hours of free time and all the necessary tools. As for the latter, you will need to prepare standard plumbing tools, including wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. To properly remove the heater stove, we recommend that you strictly follow all the steps specified in the instructions (the author of the video is the Workshop DU channel).

Execution Sequence

So, how to replace the device at home:

1. First you need to remove the steering wheel itself - to do this, you first need to carefully remove the signal panel. Then you need to disconnect the wire that goes to the horn. Having done this, unscrew the nut that secures the steering wheel and remove it.
2. After removing the steering wheel, you need to unscrew two self-tapping screws and dismantle the top cover of the control unit of the steering column switches.
3. After completing these steps, you will need to unscrew the two screws that secure the control panel. After this, the device itself can be dismantled, and then the two plugs can be disconnected from it.
4. Now, using a hexagon, you need to loosen the screw of the bottom cover of the steering column switch block; it is most convenient to reach it through a special hole. You also need to disconnect two more connectors, and then remove the rubber plug.
5. Having done this, we proceed to dismantling the center console. To do this, you need to remove the car radio, as well as the heating system control levers. When dismantling the handles, be careful as there is a risk of damage. Carefully pull the handles towards you; if necessary, use a screwdriver. It should be noted that under the outer levers you can see two self-tapping screws; you need to unscrew them, after which you can dismantle the plastic cover. Having done this, unscrew a few more bolts that secure the ashtray.
6. Next, you will need to remove the shelf located in the driver's foot area, as well as the glove box, which is located opposite the passenger seat.
7. Now you need to move the plastic trim under the ashtray, and then use a wrench to unscrew two more screws that secure the middle part of the center console. On the side parts of the console you also need to remove the decorative plugs and unscrew several screws.
8. Having done this, you should unscrew another nut that secures the center console to the heating system. This nut is located on the glove box side.
9. There is another connector on the driver's side - it needs to be disconnected, after which you can dismantle the console itself by carefully pulling it towards you, while also lifting it. There are still a few connectors left, all of which need to be disconnected during dismantling.
10. Having completed all these steps, we proceed to the most important thing - in the engine compartment you need to remove the pipes from the heating unit. In the area of ​​the ignition coil there is a nut that is screwed onto a screw with a large washer. This nut should be unscrewed, and under it you can see another one - it also needs to be unscrewed.
11. Now you need to remove the passenger side wiper. To do this, dismantle the cover that covers the filter element; the filter itself can be removed in place with the tray. Having done this, unscrew two more studs that secure the heating unit to the car body. Climb into the cabin and from there, carefully rocking the heater in different directions, pull it towards you. Dismantle the radiator assembly and replace it with a working device. The further assembly procedure is carried out in reverse order.

Choosing the right cleaning product

Considering that heaters are made of copper and aluminum, you need to know exactly what you can use to clean the heater radiator from these products, and what you can’t. The fact is that aluminum reacts very quickly with alkali and instantly oxidizes, so it is better not to use alkaline products to clean products made from it.

But then, how to rinse an aluminum stove radiator so as not to cause harm? Only acid solutions or whey. The latter, by the way, is the least aggressive, although it requires more time to dissolve the scale. But in our case, it’s better to spend a little more time and be sure that the heater will still serve us, than to quickly flush the radiator of the car’s heater, using products that can lead to its failure. For copper, on the contrary, products containing alkali are more suitable.

Replacement frequency, what antifreeze to fill

Speaking about the period for replacing antifreeze, first of all you should refer to the official operating instructions. In it, the manufacturer defines specific deadlines, different for each model and engine.

For Audi 80 B3 and B4, the fluid replacement period is two years. But it is worth considering that these data apply to factory antifreeze G11 VAG ZVW 237 102 green. Now it can no longer be found, but there is an analogue of the G11 VAG G 011 A8C in blue.

If you have a different antifreeze, then you should be guided by the data provided by the manufacturer of your fluid. This is usually average data based on the recommendations of automakers.

Antifreeze volume table

Owner reviews of the Audi 80 B3

Review of Audi 80 1.8 S (Audi 80) 1988

I have owned “Bochka” for not a year, not two, or even three or four years. And for 6 whole years. For me this is wow how long. And all because the car is super. Despite the fact that there were hundreds of replacement options. I didn't want anything other than her.

At around 310 thousand, I went through and overhauled the engine with my own hands (I only asked the mechanic to charge the pistons and loop them, he did the rest himself), the work is excellent, although sometimes it shows minor whims, but they are nothing compared to the fact that it is a real lifesaver. Little things in the vagaries of the car, due to low-quality spare parts and nothing more.

I don’t know how some people write that you can’t even drive for an hour in them before your back starts to hurt. Rave. I used it for 3500 on long trips to Almaty, Omsk, and Kurgan. No problem. I didn’t even “sneeze” once.

I will actively describe all the operating details of this car.

Advantages

Mini tank! High ground clearance, excellent cross-country ability for a passenger car. Almost like a crossover. I cut through the snow at once!

The most important thing, remember when buying an Audi 80 on the b3 platform, THIS CAR WILL FORGIVE YOU VERY SERIOUS OPERATING ERRORS! For example, if you fall into a hole on an unfamiliar road, the tire will burst within 150 km. how it happened to me and much more!

Will pull like a mule at any time of the year, in any conditions!

Oil from change to change, fluids do not cry (DO NOT FLOW, ANYWHERE and EVER).

Flaws

Age makes itself felt, but even then it’s just a rare reminder, and doesn’t scream every month.

Replacing the Audi 80 B4 Heater Radiator Video

Operations for removing the steering wheel, steering column and instrument panel

1. Turn off and remove the steering wheel 2.4. Remove the two screws that secure the top switch assembly cover to the steering column. 3. Remove two screws, secure the instrument panel from below and at the same time carefully remove it from the electronic pads. Carefully place in a safe place. 4. Remove the movable oars

. It took a bit to unscrew the screw. and don't turn it all the way. access through the round hole on the right or at the top of the steering column switch 5. Pull the steering column out personally and disconnect the two white electronic pads to the right and left of the control shaft and carefully remove it from a safe place. 6. Remove the plug Ignition switch Operations for dismantling the central tunnel

1. Remove the rear ashtray and unscrew the two screws from the bottom 2.4. In the area of ​​the parking brake buttons, remove the plug and unscrew the next bolt 3. Raise the parking brake and slide the freed part of the tunnel back. 4. Remove the screw that secures the transmission handle frame. 5. Unscrew the gear shift knob cover and remove the leather cover. Remove the front part of the frame tunnel. Operations for removing the center console.

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1. Using pliers through a thick layer of thick paper or fabric, remove the handle that controls the plate (3 pcs.) 2. Unscrew the screw under the left and right handles and remove the plate from the control panel 3. Underneath we see a white box, at the corners of which There are 4 more screws, we attach it to the console. unscrew them 4. Open the ashtray and unscrew the head with one screw that secures the cigarette lighter to the ashtray.

How to replace a radiator on an Audi B4 cat

5. Remove the cigarette lighter and disconnect it, not forgetting about the backlight. 6. Remove the ashtray. To do this, unscrew the two screws that secure it at the top and the two screws at the bottom, which are accessible after removing the front part of the central tunnel. 7. Remove the tape recorder 8. If present, remove the small shelf located next to the center console keys. To do this, we will screw you with one screw deep into one shelf 9. I did not remove the center console, but unscrewed the 2.7 nuts under the dash that hold the pipeline together. Removing gloves and racks above the driver's feet 1. It is good that it remains clear to our client. I note that when removing the driver's shelf, only carburetor cars need to be removed. absorption. To do this, you need to use a narrow screwdriver to push the bottom of the hole on this handle and pull it towards you only. Torpedo removal operations

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1. Open the driver and passenger doors on the dashes, remove the two plugs on each side 4. Remove the screws that secure the dash to the body 3. Then I removed the columns from the dash. You may not even find it useful 4. The torpedo is attached to the tunnel on the central floor. give two bolts to the left and right of tunnel 5. In the radio area, one screw and two small nuts should be inserted on the left and right. they strengthen the channels to the furnace Operations are performed under the hood

1. Turn 3 coins over the large dark plastic lining with a coin and lift it up. If you don't mind, of course, remove the 3.2 wiper as well. Remove the cabin filter, if there is one 3. Unscrew the two nuts that secure the filter to the plate box. We push the tapes and select the box (without losing the gasket) 4. Disconnect the 2.7 pins, attaching the oven to the body.

Radiator for Audi 80

5. There are 4.5 large washers in the ignition coil area. one on top of the other 15 cm below. unscrew them 6. The antifreeze did not freeze, just removed the 3.5 pipe from the radiator from an unfamiliar engine compartment Change the radiator plate READ Replacing the heater radiator Kia Sportage 2

1. In the cabin, carefully pull the dashboard towards you only. There is no need to use special forces, which, of course, saved something, in order to break something (I still had to unscrew the connectors under the dashboard from the driver, about 6 of them) 3.5. I refused to shoot the torpedo one hundred percent, took out its right end even further and took out the stove itself with the air duct assembly. 3. The radiator of the stove itself is secured with 2 screws and 2 latches. This one unscrewed and provided the last oven Reassembly.

1. Grab leaves of leaves 3.5. nut 3. Air intake shaft 4. Seal 5. Resistance 6. External fan 7. Heater housing 8. Heater control panel 9. Channel connections 10. Front foot fan nozzle 11. Front heating channel 12. Foot nozzle 13. Adapter for defrosting glass channel 14. Air intake shaft 15. Holding bracket

Replaced the heater radiator

Report on replacing the heater radiator on the Audi 80 B3 Part 1

Preparatory operations 1. turn off the alarm siren with the key (if it has its own power source) 2. remove the battery cover and disconnect the ground wire Operations for dismantling the steering wheel, steering column and dashboard 1. remove the buzzer from the steering wheel, then remove the contact coming to the steering wheel and unscrew and remove the steering wheel itself 2. unscrew the two self-tapping screws fixing the top cover of the steering column switch block 3. unscrew the two self-tapping screws fixing the dashboard and carefully remove it along the left and right, disconnecting the plug from the device, put it in a safe place 4. remove the steering column switches, for this at least on my model, it was necessary to give the screw back a little, just give it back, and not unscrew it all the way, access to which is possible through the oval hole on the right side of the lower half of the steering column panel. 5. Pull the steering column unit towards you, simultaneously disconnecting two white electrical blocks to the right and left of the steering shaft. We also carefully put it in a safe place 6. remove the block from the ignition switch Operations for dismantling the central tunnel 1. take out the rear ashtray and unscrew the two screws under it 2. in the area of ​​the handbrake button, take out the plug and unscrew another bolt. 3. lift the handbrake and move the freed part of the tunnel back (for amateurs, you can remove the handbrake trim and completely remove and remove the rear part of the tunnel), but the above operation is quite sufficient. 4. unscrew the self-tapping screw that secures the gearshift knob frame 5. unscrew the gearshift knob cap and remove the leather boot along with the frame 6. remove the front part of the tunnel

Report on replacing the heater radiator on an Audi 80 B3 Part 2

Operations for removing the center console (beard) 1. remove the heater control knobs (3 pcs.) 2. under the left and right handles, unscrew the screws and remove the heater control panel cover 3. we see under it a white box, in the corners of which there are 4 more self-tapping screws, fix it to the console. We unscrew them. 4. open the ashtray and unscrew with a head one bolt securing the cigarette lighter to the ashtray 5. remove the cigarette lighter and disconnect the plug from it, not forgetting about the backlight 6. remove the ashtray, to do this, unscrew the two screws securing it from above and two bolts from below, which open access after removing the front part of the central tunnel. 7. remove the radio 8. remove the small shelf, the one to the right of the glass defroster buttons, fog lights, etc. To do this, unscrew the self-tapping screw in the depths of this very shelf 9. carefully remove the buttons and disconnect them 10. take out the shelf 11. then remove the 3 deflectors on the center console and unscrew the two large self-tapping screws under the deflectors on the left and top right 12. unscrew the two same self-tapping screws located in the depths of the console, in the area of ​​the two upper self-tapping screws for fastening the ashtray, approximately in the right and left corners, of the white heater control unit 13. it seems that everything that needs to be unscrewed 14. take the center console and gently, slightly swaying from side to side, pull it towards ourselves 15. remove it away so as not to break anything

Operations for removing the glove compartment and the shelf above the driver's feet 1. here I think everything is clear, I just noticed that on carburetor cars, when removing the driver's shelf, you need to remove the choke handle. To do this, use a thin screwdriver to press the hole on this handle from below and pull it towards you. Operations to remove the torpedo itself 2. open the driver's and passenger compartments. doors and at the end of the torpedo, take out two plugs on each side 3. unscrew the bolts securing the torpedo to the body 4. then I removed the speakers from the torpedo, you may not need this 5. in addition, the torpedo is attached to the central tunnel of the floor, everything is transparent there - give two bolts to the right and left of the tunnel. 6. In the area of ​​the radio, you need to give one self-tapping screw and two small nuts on the right and left, they secure the air ducts to the stove 7. You may also need to disconnect the air ducts coming to the right and left pairs of deflectors. They are fastened with a wire clamp (I did not remove them) Operations carried out in the engine compartment 1. remove the right wiper 2. remove the large black plastic cover, turn 3 of its locks with a coin 3. take out the filter, if there is one 4. give away the two nuts securing the filter bowl to the box stoves, we snap off the tape clamps and take out the box (without losing the gasket) 5. unscrew the 2 studs securing the stove body to the body 6. then in the area of ​​the ignition coil there are 2 nuts with large washers, one at the top and the other 15 cm below, give them away 7. generally speaking, further recommended drain the antifreeze, but I didn’t do that, but did this: I unscrewed 3 screws securing the expansion tank and unscrewed the cap from it and, without removing any pipes, lowered it down the engine compartment, and since the stove is the highest point of the cooling system, all the liquid from the stove drained through the open cap of the expansion tank. In this way, you can save almost all the antifreeze from the system and then add only part of it - I only needed half a liter. True, I had fresh antifreeze, if it is old, it is better to drain it completely and replace it with fresh one. 8. remove 2 pipes from the side of the engine compartment from the old stove Direct replacement of the stove 1. climb into the cabin and begin to carefully pull the torpedo towards you, you don’t need to apply much force, otherwise you might tear something 2. I didn’t remove the torpedo completely but pulled out its right end as far as possible and took out the stove itself with the air ducts assembled 3. the stove radiator itself is secured with two screws and two latches 4. unhooked all this and secured the new stove

My account

If the foam rubber on the large one still clung to life, then on the small one it completely crumbled. Pieces of used luxury clogged the duct to the radiator. We clean and wash everything, and glue rubber to the flaps and attach it to the clamps. Foam rubber from a small damper Cut a piece in the shape of the damper We fasten two clamps in such a way that their locks do not interfere with the damper closing tightly.

We tighten all the clamps and enjoy the warm air in the cabin with the ability to completely block it. The hand doesn't fit at all. The right hand keeps crawling through, it’s impossible to move it there. I felt the lower bracket, but couldn’t reach the upper one.

That's it, fuck it, take off the torpedo? Or do you have any ideas?

Today, after reading your post, I went to the garage to make dampers for my car.

Replacing the stove on an Audi 80 b4

Hello dear readers of the andrejgrechuha.ru blog! Not long ago I encountered a problem with my car. The heater in the Audi 80 ran out. A liter and a half of antifreeze poured into the cabin... Trouble. Since I had to drive, I turned off the heater for a while, simply removing the pipes from the heater radiator and connecting them together using a suitable piece of pipe.

Since I was still looking to replace the Audi 80 heater, over the weekend I decided to remove the heater radiator and see what happened to it. And so let's start everything in order. For the work I needed a small set of tools, or rather an 8mm socket wrench and two screwdrivers with a long blade, a cross and a flat head, a 22mm head with an extension and a wrench. I did it easier by using a set of plumbing tools from Matrix. I'll tell you a good set. I recommend it. Before starting work, be sure to remove the positive terminal from the battery terminal.

Broken nipple: what to do

The nipple (this is the simple name for the tip on the radiator onto which the air hose from the expansion tank is placed, designed to remove the resulting air plugs) can break off at any time. This often happens during repairs at a service station. There may be several ways out here:

• Implant a threaded sleeve and secure it with Poxypol;
• Plug the resulting hole with a self-tapping screw and clamp the hose;
• Replace the radiator.

The first method, according to reviews, lasts only for a few months, a maximum of a year. Some people even manage to sell such a car. But in the end everything will come to the need for replacement.

The second method is applicable only for a very short time, while the owner calls a car repair shop or buys a new radiator. There is no point in relaxing: driving on the roads with such a pinched hose is dangerous - the engine temperature will always be elevated, and the sensors may fail.

It turns out that sooner or later the question of replacing the radiator will still arise. It's quite expensive (from $80), but you can be sure that the problem is solved.

Audi 80 b 3 stove repair

I'll tell you a good set.

Audi 80 SurvivalArt › Logbook › Part 2. Heater repair I changed the heater radiator and at the same time restored…

Air flows through the deflectors, even when the heater motor is turned off and the damper is closed. We unscrew and remove the steering wheel itself, having previously marked its position on the shaft with a marker.

We move aside the plastic covering under the ashtray of the Audi 80 heater and unscrew the two bolts securing the middle of the console. In order to diagnose a car, you will need diagnostic equipment for cars. Remove the plastic frame and the foam pad underneath it.

How to remove the radiator of an Audi 80

I once noticed that the temperature did not drop when driving on the highway. At all. Having opened the hood, I was a little shocked: EVERYTHING was in antifreeze. The pearl came from the radiator and fell directly onto the working fan, which successfully sprayed hot antifreeze throughout the engine compartment. I decided not to bother and buy a new radiator. During a trip to the market, I found an aluminum one for my car for only $45.

We also bought: a couple of new clamps (to secure the pipes) and antifreeze (I don’t remember the brand, I remember that it was red G12). We went to change it (I didn’t want to solder and pour sealant right away, because it was a waste of money).

1. Drain the antifreeze. Fortunately, you can drain it by unscrewing the pipe on the pump, but due to the absence of a hole, I unscrewed the lower pipe on the radiator and drained it slowly.

2. Remove the radiator. To remove it, I unscrewed the radiator grille and 2 bolts securing it. I don’t remember the subtleties of the process, I remember that everything is simple. We are horrified by the sight of the old radiator: half of the cells have simply spilled out, the ties are rusty. Still brassy and original

The pipes are copper, but on the new one they are plastic, clamp them carefully.

After installing a new radiator (not without some third-party tweaks, it’s not original after all), we got this result:

3. Next, fill in antifreeze, squeezing the large pipe from the radiator to the tee. Fill it completely, put the car on a slope with the front facing up (I have a convenient driveway to the garage) and rev it up a couple of times at 5 thousand rpm, adding antifreeze. Conveniently thought out system, does not get airy. This is a plus

• radiator $45
• antifreeze and distilled water – $15

Replacing the heater radiator on an Audi 80 B3

The heater on my Audi 80 was leaking, something had to be done. But to do this, you first need to remove it. This is not easy to do; the whole day was spent on the procedure.

This tool came in handy:

• pliers;
• insulating tape;
• 24" head, large knob;
• head “8.10”, small knob, extension to it at least 10 cm;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• key "at 8.10".

Of course, a new heater core is also needed. The original radiator VAG 8D1 819 030 B will cost plus or minus 7,000 rubles. Analogues of Meyle 100 819 0002, AVA AI 6097, Behr-Hella 8FH 351 311-421, Nissens 70224, Termal 110224BA and others. Their cost ranges from 500 to 3500 rubles.

Replacing the radiator of the Audi 80 B4 heater. Photos, instructions on how to change the heater radiator in an Audi 80 B4

Replacing the Audi 80 B4 heater radiator requires the car enthusiast to have minimal experience in picking hardware and a desire to do something with his own hands. It is worth noting that at a service station replacing a stove radiator would cost about $90 or 6,000 rubles.

For work we will need:

• wrench 8 mm and 10 mm;
• ratchet with a set of 20 and 25 mm sockets;
• open-end wrenches 10 mm and 13 mm;
• pliers;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• flat screwdriver;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• T30 star screwdriver;
• sealant (foam rubber) on an adhesive basis;
• new radiator for the stove 893121251G.

Sources

• https://RetroTruck.ru/obsledovanie-i-remont/snyatie-pechki-audi-80-b4.html
• https://5net.ru/zamena-radiatora-pechki-audi-80-v3/
• https://moto-sol.ru/diagnostika-i-remont/kak-snjat-pechku-audi-80-b3.html
• https://vianor14.ru/uhod-za-avtomobilem/kak-pomenyat-radiator-pechki-audi-80-b3.html
• https://zsm-miass.ru/polomki-i-remont/zamena-radiatora-pechki-audi-80-v3.html
• https://aklaypart.ru/remont/zamena-radiatora-pechki-na-audi-80-b3.html
• https://koreec73.ru/uhod-i-remont/snyatie-radiatora-pechki-audi-80-b3.html

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