Installing a europanel on a carburetor 2109

The VAZ-2109 car was produced at AvtoVAZ from 1987 to 1997. Years of production 21099: 1990-2004 - in Russia, 2004-2011 - in Ukraine. Here are colored wiring diagrams (for the injector and carburetor) with a description of all the elements for various modifications. The information is intended for self-repair of cars. Electrical circuits are divided into several blocks for ease of viewing via a computer or smartphone; there are also circuits in the form of a single picture with a description of the elements - for printing on a printer.

Like the entire car, its electrical equipment was at an average level, so owners of Nines should know the wiring diagram thoroughly for routine repairs with their own hands.

How to install a Europanel on a VAZ 2109

Task: install a Europanel on a VAZ 2109 carburetor

What is needed for this:

1.Euro-torpedo 2. Instrument panel 3. Wiring under the torpedo 4. Fuse block 2114 (it has 9 relays)

2114-3722010-60, as in the picture

5) Speed sensor (since there used to be a cable)—the sensor needs to be taken “6 pulse turn”

6) Steering column 2114 (with adjustment) 7) Wires that will come from the speed sensor 8) Cables from the VAZ 2114 stove, because old short ones 9) A pair of 4-pin relays 10) Current control 11) Ignition switch with 14k

Disassembly And so you removed the top, first we take out all the rubbish, rubbish, etc. from the car, then we climb under the column, we see the bolts for the column, you can remove it (I removed it because I made a Shumka of the whole muzzle, and there is more room without it)

Wiring

So we removed everything, we climb to the CY (mounting block), pull out all the pads from it, open the hood, also pull out all the pads from the CY and immediately put the new CY, all the pads (the things that were in the CY) back in their places. At the same moment, a beep will sound and the fan will start working, this can be solved, but first, so as not to heat your head, pull out the jumpers from the CY that stand in place of the fan relay and the signal.

We turn it on - there is no reaction, but on the tidy a couple of lamps work like a “handbrake” brick, etc. It’s all about the chip under the relay (4 contacts) there are 4 wires, 2 power (thick) 2 minuses (thin)

We need to connect the POWER wires to each other (these are blue-red and red) It should start. If not, then you have mixed up the chips, there are two of them on top of the other, you need to install a relay so that the heater turns, etc., work. (Or the wiring is not the same as mine) That is, we put a 4-pin relay on a chip with 4 wires

Everything should work. So the car starts, the heater turns the feet, etc., and all the buttons should work (hazard lights, heated glass)

Wiring, devices

The temperature on your dashboard should work, if not then you did something wrong or look at the diagrams (there will be some at the end) everything worked for me. So this list is what didn't show me at all, or didn't work properly

1) FLS (fuel level sensor) 2) Brake fluid sensor 3) Fan operation 4) Speed sensor 5) Tachometer 6) Horn

1) FLS (fuel level sensor) Take the red block that is inserted into the dashboard, find 4 pins there (pins in the photo below),

we cut it off and extend it to the pink wire on the block W/X9, depending on who you are, Ш9 pin 6, connect it and everything works.

2) Brake fluid sensor Here you only need to connect the black wire (at the barrel where the sensor is) to positive, instead of negative, we connect this black wire to (+) from the reverse sensor. The pictures show which wires.

black it to + to the back move black which goes to the brake

3) Fan operation I made the fan work regardless of the ignition position We will need - 4-pin relay - Wires: “+” battery to the relay - Relay block - Also a 20A fuse as in the photo According to the diagram, everything is simple)

need perdohr 20A

4) Speed sensor

We need a speed sensor “6 improtation” 2114, I have 3 wires coming out of it 1(+) 2(Signal) 3(-)

So 3. minus the ground on the body) 2. we connect this signal to the tidy (red block number 5 as marked in the picture) 1. plus to constant plus

5) Tachometer We simply connect the brown wire directly from the coil (ignition bobbin) to the white block in the device to cell 3, cell 2 is also a tachometer but it is low-voltage for the brain (counting cells according to the normal scheme)

6) Sound signal, just take a 4-pin relay and insert it instead of a jumper)

Result : installation of the Europanel on the VAZ 2109 carburetor is completed.

Installation of sound signals from Volga on VAZ 2108

Many VAZ 2108 owners are not satisfied with the sound of their car’s standard horn. An excellent replacement for the standard one

Tuning the instrument cluster

Let's look at the types of instrument cluster tuning in order:

In many car parts stores, as well as on the Internet, you can easily find special 'inserts in the instrument cluster', with the help of which you can change not only the backlight colors, but also the design of the dials. However, in my opinion, they are unreasonably expensive, although anyone can make them on their own, the only drawback of this method is the need to remove the instrument needles
The second option for changing the backlight is to replace the backlight bulbs with high-brightness blue LEDs, but this inevitably leads to the disappearance of red elements on the scales
But if you simply paint the backlight bulbs blue using tsaponlak, this is a bad option, firstly, you will end up with a blue color that is not at all saturated (not bright), secondly, the red elements will disappear from view, and thirdly, the installed insert devices has a filter with a green tint

Let's make a substrate

First, change the backlight bulb to an LED in the odometer screen:

The green filter should not be touched; it will not change the color or shade of the blue LED
The action that will need to be performed with the LED is to grind off its bulb (since the bulb has a lens installed that concentrates the light and makes the diode shine directionally, like a flashlight)
After this, we leave 0.5-1 mm of the inside of the LED (with the contacts on which the light element is attached), add a drop of Super Moment type glue

After this, we move on to the option of making an insert into the shield ourselves:

It is best to have a template, download it from the Internet and print it, or take a scale from non-working instruments, remove the insert with the scales, scan it in film mode so that the pictograms of the indicator of dimensions, fuel, oil and others are visible
Next, the CorelDRAW graphic editor will help you vectorize
A radical change in the design of the scales is simply a waste of time, so you can easily leave the standard design, the main thing is that the readings are perfectly readable
The base can be printed using a phototypesetting machine, you just need a good density of black color, otherwise you will have the entire panel glowing, and not just its numbers

Tuning trim for instrument cluster

To make a color base there are two options:

Option one: take a film for a laser printer, print the outlines of the scales, setting the “mirror” mode, it is better to set the outline color to 5%
We recommend that you first enlarge the contours (slightly) by 0.5 millimeters, in case there are any discrepancies between the tracing paper and the photo output
We color the tracing paper with paints that are used in silk-screen printing, since such paints dry quickly, they are transparent and give a good rich color
Option two: you can print the colored substrate on the film of an inkjet printer, however, most likely, you will have to run it several times to achieve a bright, saturated color
To achieve the invisibility (invisibility) of the symbols of the control lights, we take a transparent film specially for an inkjet printer, print colored squares on it, which we lay according to the sample
When the control light is not on, the designation pattern is practically invisible, and to achieve a better effect you can glue a piece of tint film onto the base

The final stage in making a “sandwich”:

Taking into account the fact that the film from the phototypesetting machine came out glossy, we put a matte film as the first layer in order to laminate it, which has a thickness of 25 microns
We put a base under the film
The next layer is a laminating film to glue two sheets of paper together, instead of double-sided tape
Then a colored substrate and again a matte film
Film layers 1, 3 and 5 will give us additional dispersion, as a result of which we get uniform illumination
Then we put it all through a laminator.
Finally, carefully cut out our insert
We use a punch to cut out holes for the shafts for the arrows
Just a piece of iron tube of suitable diameter will do; the edge needs to be sharpened
However, as a result, it quickly became clear that the scales glow, not so brightly, I would like it to be brighter, even worse than before (the power of the standard backlight is not enough), so we move on to a method of radically changing the entire backlight

Rework

To replace a carburetor with an injector yourself, be sure to arm yourself with the following components:

Cylinder head from VAZ 2112 with receiver and manifolds;
Knock sensor;
Throttle pipe with throttle position sensor;
Mass air flow sensor and a number of other elements.

Replacement kit
When everything is ready, you can get to work.

Remove the old cylinder head. Plus, remove all attachments in the fuel assembly, gas tank and ignition system.
Remove the alternator, thermostat, pulleys and belts.
Install a new gas tank with a pump, borrowed from a donor - an injection VAZ.
Remove the carburetor and ignition system components that need to be replaced.
Disconnect the cooling system pipes and hoses. Here, install a completely new kit from the injector.
Remove the pan.
Install new pistons from an injection donor and connecting rods at 10. Standard carburetor components are not designed for an injection compression ratio. Plus there are special recesses for other valves.
Install a new unit with an underflow on the cover for the DPKV, replacing the standard oil pump. If you can remove the cover, then only that will be replaced.
After removing the old cooling system pipes, install new ones. The best solution is to replace the entire set. Buying it won't really impact your overall budget.
Prepare everything necessary to mount the 16 valve head. The fasteners match, only the bolts from the old head are long and need to be shortened. Plus, don’t forget to make a size 12 hole in the new head.
Install new fuel lines from the donor.
Connect your new gas tank to the lines.
Route the wiring from the control unit to the fuel pump. You can use old fuel level regulators from a carburetor car.
Cut a hole in the wall of the engine compartment through which the wiring will be routed. This way you won't have to make the standard wires longer.
Install the knock sensor by drilling a hole in the block and tapping a size 8 thread.
Be sure to replace the water pump using a unit from donor 2112.
Get a new crankcase breather and oil dipstick. Install them instead of the previous ones.
Install a new cylinder head. Just don't forget to change the gasket, which corresponds to a different head.
Install a thermostat borrowed from a VAZ 2112.
Connect the coolant pipes.
Remove the rear timing cover and rollers. The pulleys from 2112 are dismantled. The belt must be installed in accordance with the marks.
Install the new generator along with the drive. For the new generator, the upper fasteners will remain intact, since they are not provided for by the design of the carburetor VAZ 2109. Therefore, fasten the pair of lower mounting bolts as securely as possible.
Place all the sensors in their new places.
Seal the valve covers with a good quality sealant.
Assemble the ignition module, wires, spark plugs and other components.
Install the air filter.
Get your exhaust system back to normal. The muffler is often left stock, but the resonator and other components are taken from the donor.
The wiring is connected to the dashboard and the lock.
Fill in new oil, refuel the car with high-quality fuel.
Start the engine and take it for a test drive.

Instructions for installing a new panel

If you want to replace a low tidy with a more advanced, high one, then in any case you will have to change the entire center console.

Removal and installation instructions look like this:

First, you need to turn off the power to the on-board network; to do this, disconnect the battery, remove the steering wheel, as well as the steering column switches and the ignition switch. You will also need to disconnect the ignition relay.
Next, unscrew the two bolts that secure the control panel visor and remove it.
Now you need to compress the spring and remove the shield itself from the center console. Disconnect all wires and connectors connected to the dash, including the speedometer cable, the econometer hose, and the odometer cable. After this, the tidy can be moved to the side.
Then remove the regulator from the hydrocorrector of the optics light, the tidy light switch knob, as well as the interior heater and fan regulators. To do this, pull the controls towards you.
After this, unscrew the two bolts securing the center panel trim on the sides; the trim itself can be moved towards you. Then you need to disconnect the connectors.
Now the key in the lock should be turned to position “0”, this will disable the anti-theft system. A connector with wires is connected to the lock itself; it must be disconnected. Next, unscrew the two nuts and two bolts, after which you can remove the steering column pipe with the switch.
Remove the choke handle located under the instrument panel. Pull it towards you so that you can feel the pull. You need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the damper guide rod, after which the choke can be removed.
Now you can unscrew four more screws that secure the heater control panel in the car. Unscrew the bolts located on the side of the shield on both sides. Also unscrew the lower console mounting bolts with nuts that secure the control panel lighting switch and the optics hydraulic corrector. To do this you will need a 22mm socket wrench, it must be high.
After completing these steps, you need to unscrew the bolt that secures the center console in the glove compartment. Then all you have to do is unscrew one bolt at a time on each side securing the center console. The console itself can then be dismantled.
As for installing a new high panel with tidy, this process does not present any particular difficulties. All dimensions at the mounting points on the body are the same, but this procedure also has its own characteristics. To install your new console, you will need the appropriate wiring harness. If you use an existing harness, then you will need to rearrange the terminals in it, taking into account the connection diagram. In addition, it will be necessary to change the cables leading to the heater to longer ones, the same applies to the speedometer cable. If you are installing a new console, you will also need other roof pillar side trims, these must be installed before you install the console. Since the new dashboard will not use a flow meter, the tube from it will need to be plugged. In addition, the signal to the tachometer will need to be supplied from wire K on the coil, which is connected to the speed sensor cable bracket.
Immediately before installation, you should reassemble the new console, and wrap the connection points of the blowers with electrical tape and, preferably, glue them with foam rubber or anti-creaking agent. It is also necessary to change the foam rubber of the heater, since the old one will no longer be able to perform its functions. Also make sure that the choke can close completely and remember that the cable from the new speedometer should be installed before you install the console. The assembly procedure begins with laying a new wiring harness and connecting all connectors. Before you finally assemble everything, turn on the dashboard and check how all the indicators and gauges work. After this, the console can be put back in place.

Removing the torpedo step by step

We find two screws on the central panel on the right and unscrew them. We perform the same action on the other side on the left. After this, carefully remove the shield from both sides.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry off the plug, which is located on the central tunnel. We unscrew the tunnel fastenings located on the sides and behind it. Unscrew the screws holding the central panel.
This part of the interior can already be removed completely. We see that there is access to the cigarette lighter. We mark the wiring and disconnect it, then remove the cover from the gearbox handle.
The next step is the air duct. We take the key for 10 and dismantle it. There is access to the central panel, which is held on a mount in the front and rear. Unscrew the screws and remove the panel. After dismantling the central panel, you can move on to the main body of the torpedo.
The glove compartment was removed in advance, as it interfered with the overall process. All that remains is to disconnect the backlight and unscrew the fastener on which it was held.
Carefully pry up the air duct with a screwdriver and then remove it. There is still a nut on the dashboard that needs to be unscrewed. Now the panel can be easily removed by lifting it up and slightly pulling it towards you. Now it will easily slide off the stilettos. We take out the plugs, not forgetting to mark them with a marker.

The torpedo has been dismantled and can easily be replaced by installing a new panel from a VAZ-2110 or tuned using a more prestigious panel. Assembly must be done in reverse order.

Installing a Solex carburetor on the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

We install the Solex carburetor on the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars after removing it for repairs or when installing a new carburetor.
— A key set to “13” for tightening the carburetor mounting nuts. It is most convenient to use a socket wrench or a socket with a wrench.

— Two keys “8” for the screws for fixing the rod of the carburetor air damper drive and its shell

— Phillips screwdriver, for tightening the carburetor cover screws and tightening the fastenings of hose and pipe clamps.

— We clean the intake manifold and the area on it for installing the carburetor from contamination.

— We check the carburetor mounting studs on the engine intake manifold (condition of the threads, reliability of fixation).

— Remove the top part (cover) of the carburetor.

You don’t have to do this, but with the cover removed there is better access to the carburetor mounting nuts.

The procedure for installing a Solex carburetor on the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Install three gaskets under the carburetor

In this order: sealing gasket, thermal insulation spacer, sealing gasket.

Install the carburetor body onto the intake manifold

We put it on the studs with the holes in the flange and lower it all the way down. The carburetor float chamber should face the nose of the car. We screw the carburetor mounting nuts onto the studs and tighten them crosswise, in several passes, with a wrench set to “13”. Tightening torque 3-4 N.m.

Attach the carburetor heating unit

We fix it to the carburetor with a screw. If hoses have been removed from the heating block, install them on the block pipes and secure them with clamps.

Installing the upper part (cover) of the Solex carburetor

When installing, carefully lower the floats into the float chamber, trying not to bend their arms or change their position. We secure the cover with five screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Tighten crosswise.

Connecting the fuel hoses

There are only two of them: a thick hose - the fuel supply line, is put on the thick fuel fitting of the carburetor. Thin - “return” (return line), fits onto the thin fuel fitting of the carburetor. Fastening with clamps, which must be placed loosely on the hoses before installing them on the fittings. We tighten the clamps with a Phillips screwdriver; you can also use a spanner wrench set to “7” or “8”.

Attach the hose of the small branch of the crankcase ventilation

The hose runs from a fitting on the valve cover to a separate fitting on the carburetor body. It is not necessary to secure it with clamps.

We connect the tube from the vacuum ignition timing regulator

The tube goes from the fitting of the vacuum ignition timing regulator housing on the distributor to the fitting on the carburetor body. There is no need to secure the tube with clamps.

Attach the cable drive of the throttle valves

Turn the throttle valve drive sector clockwise. We thread the tip of the drive cable into the hole in the sector and run the cable along the notch on it. We put the return spring with one edge on the sector, the other on the bracket. The cable tension may need to be adjusted. See “Adjusting the throttle valve drive of the first chamber of the Solex carburetor.”

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Delivery is carried out throughout Russia and the CIS.

Deadline for order delivery to T.K. from 1 to 4 business days from the date of receipt of funds. (orders are not processed on Saturday and Sunday).

Lead time for orders that include painting services: 5-10 business days.

The lead time for placing orders and “made to order” items is from 14 days; you can check with the manager for more detailed information.

ATTENTION! All fragile goods (headlights, plastic products, glass, etc.), by default, are sent in additional paid packaging from TK. If you take responsibility for the integrity, we can ship without it. To do this, you need to make a note in the comments when placing your order.

For additional information, please contact the managers.

Installation instructions for on-board computer

In this article we will look at the process of installing the Prestige on-board computer with diagnostic and error reading functions.

For work we will need:

Screwdrivers,
on-board computer,
wire 1m long.

We remove the plug on the central dashboard and look for a 9-pin wiring block in it. This block must be present on all cars of our model. All that remains is to connect the block to the computer and that’s it, but we need to draw a K-line.

How to draw a K-line?

We take our wire and install it in the second contact of our block.
We throw the opposite end of the wire under the instrument panel down to the diagnostic block (for convenience, you can unscrew the right side panel).
Having stretched the wire to the diagnostic block, we connect it to the “M” socket if you have a EURO-2 block or to the 7th socket if you have a EURO-3 block (it is very common that the diagnostic block for Euro-3 is installed upwards on the car feet, keep this in mind)
Now we connect the on-board computer, insert it into its normal place and check it.

For a more complete and clear idea of the work, a diagram is presented.

What to do if there is no socket for the on-board computer under the instrument panel?

In this case, all that remains is to assemble a new block: buy a 9-pin block and run wires to it according to the following diagram:

fuel consumption signal (green wire)
ignition (orange wire)
+ 12 volts (red/white wire) red wire with white stripe
mass (black)
speed sensor (brown wire)
6k line (most often gray or black wire)
mute (green/red wire) green wire with a red stripe
backlight (white wire, or can be taken from the size button)
fuel level sensor (pink)

Installing a europanel on a VAZ 2109 carburetor

The topic of today's article is quite interesting. This is the installation of a VAZ 2114 panel on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) and other experiments with the Nine dashboard.

Let's not talk about such things as the justification of these actions. In the end, each car owner decides for himself what his car will look like. But still, we can say with confidence that the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 looks much better than the original panel and dashboard from the VAZ 2109.

Let’s say right away that installing a Europanel on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) is a very troublesome process, and first you need to remove the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114.

First, there is a difference in wiring. And you will have to delve into the instructions and pinouts. Otherwise it may “not fly”.

In terms of price, installing a VAZ 2114 torpedo in a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) can cost five to ten thousand rubles, depending on where you buy it and who will do the installation. A new one in cellophane can cost more.

How difficult this process is if you do it yourself depends on how well you understand auto electrics. And in electrics, as such. You may have to actually redo some wiring. It rarely happens that everything starts up and starts from scratch, especially when we are talking about tuning a VAZ 2114 or any other basin. Also, during this kind of repair, it is necessary to look at the diagram of the VAZ 2114 instrument panel in order to accidentally prevent another mistake.

Most likely, you will have to redo the wiring and change the mounting block. Some experts recommend installing wiring from a VAZ 2115.

Installing a VAZ 2114 instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) makes the interior of your car more modern, “newer”. You can also replace the steering column to maintain a sense of integrity of the picture.

The beautiful and more modern dashboard of the VAZ 2114 requires its costs. So you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to put it in order, replace the wiring and connect everything correctly.

The topic of today's article is quite interesting. This is the installation of a VAZ 2114 panel on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) and other experiments with the Nine dashboard.

Let's not talk about such things as the justification of these actions. In the end, each car owner decides for himself what his car will look like. But still, we can say with confidence that it looks much better than the original panel and torpedo from the VAZ 2109.

Let's say right away - installing a Europanel on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor) is a very troublesome process, and first you need to.

First, there is a difference in wiring. And you will have to delve into the instructions and pinouts. Otherwise it may “not fly”.

How difficult this process is if you do it yourself depends on how well you understand auto electrics. And in electrics, as such. You may have to actually redo some wiring. It rarely happens that everything starts up and starts from scratch, especially when it comes to any other basin. Also, during this kind of repair, you need to look into it so as not to accidentally make a mistake again.

Most likely, you will have to redo the wiring and change the mounting block. Some experts recommend installing wiring from.

Beautiful and more modern requires its costs. So you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to put it in order, replace the wiring and connect everything correctly.

Tuning a VAZ 2108 (tuning eight) with your own hands is easier than ever

Carburetor Colex 21083 and its design

New cars up to 500,000 rubles in good configuration

And so, I’ll say right away that I didn’t take a lot of photos, because.. =( (Thanks to Serega (Sega535) for telling me about this site!)

What types of overlays are there?

Installation of the VAZ 2110 dashboard on Lada 4×4 (VAZ 2121, 2131)

If you just need a Euro pad, then there are two options:

Euro-1 rubber, another name for which is Caprice. It has the same instrument cluster as the VAZ 2110, the only thing is that there is no shelf on the passenger side;

Panel trim VAZ 2110 Euro-1

Panel trim VAZ 2110 Euro-2

There is also a Euro-3 overlay on sale. But it is for later and more advanced VAZ cars - Priora, Kalina. The fact is that this version provides more devices, for example, there is a unit for climate control, which is not observed in the top ten. Although, in principle, if desired, installing this option is also possible.

Panel trim VAZ 2110 Euro-3

Any Euro pad mentioned above is a quality product, unless, of course, it is a cheap fake. It is softer and even, according to manufacturers, less traumatic, like the old one. In addition, after its installation, the supply of warm air to the side windows should improve.

Dashboard diagram

The VAZ 2109 panel is made of a special energy-absorbing material. It consists of an overlay and, in fact, the panel itself. It is made of plastic. Its thickness is 3 mm. The overlay is essentially reinforced with a special metal frame. It has a reliable energy-absorbing layer made of polyurethane foam. On the outside it is lined with a special decorative film. The car can be equipped with low and high VAZ 2109 panels, as well as a “European panel”.

The high panel of the VAZ 2109, like the low one, has certain features that should be taken into account when installing them. The installation method and the high panel are almost identical, since the mounting points, as well as the connections of the air ducts of the automobile ventilation and heating system, are the same. The differences concern only the wiring harness connections. (The diagram of the VAZ 2109 instrument panel is shown in the photo below; follow the link to read even more about it).

Components

When purchasing, you will receive what is included in the kit, namely:

Europlate;
Inserts for switches (buttons) of devices;
Trim on the instrument panel;
Since your instrument combination may differ from those whose installation is structurally provided, there should also be six plugs; they can be inserted instead of buttons;
The buttons themselves and two pads for them: • Double – for low beam and dimensions; • To turn on the fog lights; • Heated rear window.
Air ducts;
Block and wiring harness designed to connect a double button for side lights and low beam;
Brackets securing the instrument panel.

In addition, if you are not entirely satisfied with this combination, and you need more buttons for other devices, then they, as well as the pads for them, can be purchased separately.