Repair of VAZ 2110 (Lada): chassis

Removing and installing the lever and extension VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

front suspension, service manual

We remove the lever from the VAZ 2112 car to replace the silent blocks of the lever and the extension or the lever itself. We remove the extension to replace its silent blocks or when completely disassembling the front suspension.

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift.

Remove the engine mudguard (see Removing the engine mudguard for a VAZ 2111).

Remove the ball joint or disconnect it from the lever (see Removing the ball joint).

Holding the extension with a 24mm spanner, use a spanner of the same size to unscrew the extension nut.

Using two 17mm wrenches, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar of the VAZ 2112 to the lever.

Use a soft metal drift to knock out and remove the bolt.

Using two 19mm wrenches, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body of the VAZ 2110.

We remove (or knock out) the bolt and remove the lever from the bracket.

Remove the washer and lever from the stretcher.

On the stretcher behind the large washer there are washers for adjusting the pitch angle of the VAZ 2111 turning axis (in our case there are three of them).

To remove the brace from the cross member of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110, use two 24mm wrenches to unscrew the nut...

...remove the washer and remove the extension from the silent block of the VAZ 2112.

At the front end of the stretcher, washers for adjusting the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the steering axis can also be installed (in our case there are two of them).

To replace the silent block of the VAZ 2110 lever, press it out in a vice with suitable pipe sections.

We wet the new silent block with soapy water and press it into the lever.

We knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel.

Having removed one, we similarly dismantle the second.

We pre-press the new silent block in a vice...

...and finally press it, striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer.

We carry out the assembly in the reverse order, and tighten the threaded connections of all rubber-to-metal hinges in the “vehicle on wheels” position.

Front suspension of VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

– Front suspension design
– Wheel alignment angles
- Spherical bearing
– Lever and suspension extension
– Disassembly and assembly of the rack
– Anti-roll bar
– Silent crossbar blocks
– Front suspension cross member
– Replacing the wheel bearing

Chassis components of VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Maintenance and repair of the running gear of the fret 2111. Operating instructions for the running gear components of the fret 2110. Checking the rear and front suspension of the fret 2112.

The duration of repair of the VAZ 2110 chassis is affected by the volume of work performed. On average, repairs to a VAZ 2110 chassis are carried out within a day. In the event of a critical condition of the chassis, as well as the need to perform welding and plumbing work, repairs may take two days.

However, before this, our Moscow car services provide free suspension diagnostics. After its completion, a list of urgent and optional work is compiled.

The main causes of malfunctions are also stated and the price of spare parts that will be used during the repair of the VAZ 2110 chassis is indicated. They can be ordered at an affordable price at the car service warehouse.

Types of work on the chassis:	Price
Replacing the lever	from 1200 rub.
Replacing the shock absorber	from 800 rub.
Spring replacement	from 800 rub.
Replacing the ball joint	from 850 rub.
Replacing the silent block of the lever	from 250 rub.
Replacing the steering tip	from 550 rub.
Replacing the steering rod	from 750 rub.
CV joint replacement	from 1300 rub.
Replacing stabilizer struts	from 600 rub.
Replacing stabilizer bushings	from 400 rub.
Replacing the subframe	from 4000 rub.
Chassis diagnostics	for free

When restoring a running VAZ 2110, it is recommended to combine mandatory and additional work. This will reduce the cost of repairs. For example, when urgently replacing the front springs, the support bearings are also changed. Thus, the client saves on costs for separate replacement of support bearings

Work on domestic cars

So, let's look at how the VAZ 2107 is repaired from either side. As you know, the front wheels are driven, so the design is not complicated. It includes two levers whose silent blocks wear out, ball joints whose condition needs to be checked regularly, a stabilizer and a shock absorber from which oil can leak.

As an example, let’s look at how to replace the most frequently failing element on this car – the shock absorber strut. For the work we will need the following tools and accessories:

set of keys;
screwdrivers;
pliers.

We carry out the work from the inspection pit.

In the engine compartment we clamp the rod with pliers. Using a wrench, immediately unscrew the rod nut. Then remove the nut, washers, and pad.
Now we unscrew the two nuts of the bracket from the inspection hole, then we pull out the defective unit, in addition, we remove another cushion from its rod.
Unscrew the bracket from the rack using two keys.
We install the new assembly unit in the reverse order.

Note that such suspension repairs for the VAZ 2106 are carried out in a similar way. Let's look at replacing a ball joint in a similar design using the Niva as an example. After all, Niva’s principles of suspension repair are reminiscent of working with classic VAZs. Although the design contains a CV joint - an angular velocity joint, since the wheels can already become drive wheels. For work we will take:

set of wrenches;
hammer;
stand.

Jack up and remove the wheel from the desired side.
After unscrewing the central nut, pull off the hub and brake disc.
Unscrew the upper ball joint nuts.
Unscrew the bottom nut.
We lower the car so that the lever rests on a strong stand.
Having retracted the CV joint, we hit the fist with a hammer, thereby releasing the ball joint.
We assemble the new part in reverse.

Also read about replacing the cylinder head cover gasket and how to change the oil pump on a VAZ 2110.

Repairs to the suspension on a Chevrolet Niva are carried out in a similar way.

Now let’s look at how to change, say, a shock absorber strut if the front wheels are fully driven. As an example, we will tell you how such a partial repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110 is done. In general, the mechanism under the front of the “ten”, in addition to the strut, consists of ball joints, a CV joint, an anti-roll bar, a swing arm, and steering rods.

To carry out work on replacing the telescopic stand we will need:

a set of keys;
special key for holding the rod;
puller;
spring ties.

In the engine compartment, unscrew the top nut of the rod, fixing the rod with a special key, and here we unscrew the three fastenings of the strut support.
Jack up and remove the wheel.
Having unscrewed the cotter pin, unscrew the tie rod nut. Using a puller, squeeze the steering rod pin out of the strut.
Remove the brake caliper and hose and move them to the side.
After unscrewing the fasteners, disconnect the ball joint. You can replace it here.
We unscrew the CV joint nut, take out the strut, while simultaneously removing the CV joint from the splines. Let's consider his condition along the way.
We install the couplers on the spring, then compress the spring, then unscrew the support bearing.
We take out worn out elements. We install new parts in reverse order.

The method outlined here allows you to leave the wheel camber the same.

If we continue the conversation about domestic cars, then it should be noted that the most difficult thing to repair in the suspension is the GAZ 24, where such an outdated unit as the kingpin often suffers. After all, this is a rod with three attachment points; the structure of such an element is complex and imperfect.

But repairing the suspension of the GAZ 31105 with your own hands is much easier, since instead of pins, more advanced ball joints are installed here, which we have already discussed.

The front suspension of the Sobol car resembles the standard designs of the GAZ 31105, so many car enthusiasts can repair it with their own hands. In particular, replacing the ball when repairing the Sobol suspension is carried out approximately according to the instructions described above.

How to fix components on a foreign car

Since the shock absorber in the design of the drive wheels most often fails, we will consider replacing the strut as a way to repair the front suspension of the Ford Focus 2.

We will prepare the following for work:

set of keys;
screwdrivers, hexagons, asterisks;
chisel, hammer.

Begin.

Raise the desired part of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.
In the engine compartment we dismantle the air duct grille.
To gain access to the rack mount, unscrew and remove the plastic (one of its star mounts).
Unscrew the stabilizer link nut from the bottom from the strut. Here you can immediately replace this rod if it is very loose.
Disconnect the ABS connector and remove the brake hose from the bracket.
We press out the fist using a chisel and release the lower end of the rack.
At the top of the rack, unscrew the three support bearing fasteners.
We remove the rack and replace it with a new one.
Assembly is done on the way back.

How to upgrade wipers

In most cases, the windshield cleaning area will be improved. In principle, there is nothing complicated here. But first you can change the wipers if they do not cope with their function

It is worth drawing your attention to the fact that from the driver's side the visibility should be 100%, especially on the left. Dirt appears right on the left pillar side, which the wipers cannot cope with.

One of the outputs is to adjust the position of the device. In our case, it is necessary to slightly raise the driver's wiper, that is, change its initial position. But not everyone will like this method, and the result is not 100%, since some of the dirt still remains. In this case, a slightly different modification to the VAZ-2110 wipers will be required.

Sometimes the cause is a windshield that does not allow the glass to be cleaned evenly. In this case, for a more noticeable result, you need to bend the frill leash. You can direct the hook under the brush; near it we need to bend the leash a little. There's already a factory bend there that we need to make a little bigger. In addition, you need to bend the end of the wiper spoiler slightly upward. This is done so that it does not catch the brush. After this, it is advisable to check if everything worked out for you. That, perhaps, is all that needs to be done on the VAZ-2110. Modifications to the wipers, of course, are different, but they are done quite quickly and simply, so you will succeed

Now let’s move on to something no less important – the car’s heater, which warms us up in the cold. There is a lot you can do here, but let's talk about the most important thing.

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Lada 2112 › Logbook › Chassis repair on my 2112

Last week, I ran into a problem. Something began to hum on the left side. It's usually the bearings that hum, but since I changed them not long ago, I was sure that it wasn't them. I decided to go to the service center because something had been rattling on my front right side for a very long time. I only got to them on the second day; it turns out that I drove all day with a terrible hum on the left side. I arrived in the morning just as it was opening. I drove in, the car was lifted on a lift, we started looking. And then horror overtook me, the left wheel was dangling in all directions. It feels like the wheel is about to fall off. The service workers were surprised and even joked: “Guy, do you even have a bearing there?” We took off the wheel and the hub nut just fell out, I have no idea how it came off, I always tightened it very tightly. Well, okay, it didn’t fall off, thank God. We tightened the nut, installed the wheel, and naturally the bearing, grenade, brake discs (since the nut was unscrewed and the entire disc was sheared off by the caliper bracket) and pads were ordered to be replaced. Let's look further, and everything is no less sad. The drive seals were leaking, the front left strut was leaking, the right strut was knocking. The ball ones also left theirs. The right strut was leaking from the rear, the right bearing was humming and the silent blocks of the rear beam were being replaced. They also advised me to change the rear pads. I decided to ask about prices if I do everything from them. To say that I was surprised... I was shocked...

A little about the generator and its improvement

The battery must be recharged while the vehicle is moving. At this time, all devices are powered by a generator. The voltage should be within 14 Volts. So, if you have too many electrical appliances and the voltage drops to about 11-12 Volts, then there is one way on how you can increase the power of the device by about 10%. Such a modification of the VAZ-2110 generator involves the installation of one diode. First of all, we need to disconnect the battery terminal, and then disconnect the wire marked “D”. Next, you need to remove the clamps from the back cover of the generator. After that you will see the voltage regulator. We need to thread the wires from the pre-prepared diode through the holes in the generator cover.

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After this we connect the wires. To do this, the “mother” is connected to the PH, and the “father” is connected to the standard wire. After that, we need to close the back cover and screw everything into place. This completes the modification of the VAZ-2110 generator. The voltage should rise to approximately 13 Volts, which is closer to normal. By the way, it is advisable to use a diode with a breakdown of no more than 20 V and a current of 5 Amps. As for the voltage drop, it should be within 0.6-0.7 Volts.

VAZ 2110 suspension repair

The simple, understandable and reliable suspension 2110 does not require any special or costly measures for maintenance and repair. Chassis repair involves, first of all, eliminating the consequences of driving on our less than ideal road surfaces. In this regard, the top ten also compares favorably with more recent and much more expensive foreign cars in the budget segment. If you have a lift or, in extreme cases, an inspection hole, any part of the front suspension can be easily replaced or repaired with your own hands using basic tools. There are some peculiarities in the repair of front struts, support bearings and stabilizer bars, but they are present in every car.

Steering rack repair requires special attention. Its dismantling is simple, but the reassembly process itself can cause some difficulties, since there is a need for some pullers and calibrated samples. But it is enough to disassemble it yourself once, and in the future its maintenance will not cause problems. When repairing a steering rack, it is imperative to use the correct repair kits. And full. They can be sold either as a simple set of seals and a bushing, or as a complete repair kit with a bearing, corrugations, the same bushings and seals, as well as retaining rings. Considering that you will have to spend a good half day replacing a repair kit, it is better to replace the complete set.

Problems when paying with bank cards

Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:

There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
There are not enough funds on the plastic card.

In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.

That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.

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CV joints

Most often, a faulty CV joint manifests itself as a distinct crunching sound when the steering wheel is turned in any direction when driving hard. When this symptom is observed in a car, it makes sense to drive the car into a pit and check it.

In order to check the CV joint yourself, you first need to perform a visual inspection; if the boots are torn, there is a high probability that the CV joint is faulty, since the dirt that will fly under it will act as an abrasive and will accelerate wear several times.

Next, check for play. To do this, grab the drive and pull it clockwise and counterclockwise; if you feel play, it means the CV joint is faulty.

The above is not all that is included in the diagnosis. These procedures will only help determine the general condition of the main suspension components. For a more in-depth analysis of the wear of a particular element, equipment that is only available at a service station may be required.

Main nodes

Let's talk about its device. The most important element of the front suspension is its strut (hydraulic telescopic) - indispensable in the matter of shock absorption, that is, ensuring a comfortable ride, without much shaking (as far as possible) over bumps and potholes on our roads. It is thanks to the rack, or rather its steering knuckle with an upper bolt equipped with an eccentric washer and a belt, that makes it possible to change the camber of the wheel.

Telescopic strut of the front suspension of VAZ 2110

The following are installed on the rack:

Special spring;
Buffer limiting the compression stroke, made of polyurethane;
Upper support. Its structure is as follows: it is attached to a stand, to which the mudguard is attached with self-locking nuts. Therefore, if you make repairs yourself, do not miss this moment - you cannot use ordinary nuts;
A bearing that makes it possible to rotate the stand together with the wheels;
A shock absorber in which a spring and a plunger are installed for better performance.

The ball joint combines the lower parts: the steering knuckle and the lever. The longitudinal braces, lower arms, and supports that the crossbar has are connected to each other by rubber-metal hinges. With the help of special washers, it becomes possible to adjust the longitudinal inclination of the turning axis. An angular contact, non-adjustable bearing secures the wheel hubs.

Ball joint VAZ 2110

The cross member is the rod to which the lower arms are connected. It is attached to the body in the middle, helped by rubber cushions. This, in a nutshell, is the front suspension design. Now let’s look at possible malfunctions, which in some cases can be fixed with your own hands, in others it is better to contact specialists.

Cross member VAZ 2110

Replacing stabilizer struts

If there are loud knocking sounds in the front suspension, and dull knocks are heard when turning, then perhaps it’s time to change the bushings and stabilizer links. On a VAZ 2110 you can replace it yourself. Before repairs, you should diagnose the malfunction of the stabilizer struts.

A VAZ 2110 car is lifted from the front. Wheels must be hung freely. Climb under the car and pull the stabilizer itself with your hand. If there is play and a knock is heard, then the bushings and stabilizer struts need to be replaced.

Replacing stabilizer struts on a VAZ 2110 yourself is a simple repair of the front suspension, but it should be carried out with full responsibility. To replace the stabilizer struts on a VAZ 2110, the car is driven onto an inspection pit or overpass. Before carrying out repairs, the vehicle is set to the parking brake. It is necessary to install stops under the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from accidentally rolling away.

To carry out repairs, the following is required:

a set of keys;
hammer and spacer made of soft metal;
WD-40 penetrating fluid (ordinary brake fluid is suitable as an alternative);
metal brush.

Work order:

1. Clean all threaded connections with a wire brush. Spray them with WD-40 or wet them with brake fluid. This will help loosen the nuts and bolts. After waiting a few minutes, he begins to dismantle the anti-roll bar. 2. Using two 17mm wrenches, unscrew the fastening of the “ten” stabilizer strut on the lower arm. Carefully knock out the fastening bolt using a hammer and a soft spacer. It serves to protect the threads on the bolt. If a bolt is damaged, you will need to look for a replacement. 3. Remove the stand from the bar. 4. Having coated the rubber bushings with plenty of soapy water, we put a new strut on the anti-roll bar. 5. Attach the stabilizer link to the lever. 6. Following steps 2-5, we replace the stabilizer link on the other side of the car.

As a rule, when replacing stabilizer struts on a VAZ 2110, the stabilizer bushings are replaced. To make replacement easier, you need to raise the front of the car. In garage repairs, jacks and stands are used. The stabilizer bushings are changed after dismantling the stabilizer link (see paragraph 3).

Sequence for replacing bushings:

1. Using a 13 mm wrench and WD-40, unscrew the bracket fastening. 2. Remove the old stabilizer bushings. You can cut them with a regular knife. 3. Having generously moistened the bushings with soapy water, put them on the stabilizer. 4. Screw the stabilizer to the car body. 5. We continue replacing the stabilizer link from step 4 of the instructions stated above.

The final tightening of threaded connections is carried out with the car lowered on its wheels. After replacing the stabilizer struts, there is no need to visit a service station and do a wheel alignment. Replacing stabilizer struts on a VAZ 2110 does not affect the wheel alignment angles.

Stabilizer links are called “eggs” in automotive slang. The stabilizer struts received this name because of their appearance. The auto parts store offers “eggs” from various manufacturers. It's difficult to recommend anything specific.

The service life of stabilizer struts and bushings depends on the road surface and manufacturer. On the spare parts market there are reinforced stabilizer struts for the VAZ 2110. Replacing conventional ones with reinforced ones will lead to a more rigid steering and reduce the roll of the car.

Stabilizer struts have to be replaced quite often; if a VAZ 2110 car owner can change them himself, he will save enough money and enjoy doing the repairs himself.

VESKO-TRANS.RU

Our client needs to know that the use of silent blocks affects the vehicle wheel alignment angles. Therefore, it is very important that they are always in good condition. Sometimes, in any case, it is necessary to change the front silent blocks from the VAZ 2110. And it should be noted that replacing the front silent blocks on the VAZ 2110 relaxed you, as much as you spent on yourself.

How the front silent blocks malfunction manifests itself

Vas 2110 replacement silent front suspension blocks

It's easy to find out if they are working correctly. To do this, it should be noted that:

Will the front wheel stick together while driving. However, the trip does not have to be a long distance. Even if you are traveling a short distance from the squeaks, you should not observe them. This does not mean that the creaking will be very noticeable. it may not be audible;
Are there any imperfections on the tires? Usually, if quiet blocks do not work well, then they have small cracks, tears.
Is there a knocking sound in the front wheels? There is a fact that silent blocks begin to slide poorly, as over time it becomes more and more difficult for our client to turn, and therefore they begin to sound like a knock.

Please note that it is impossible to act here according to the principles of doctors: one “symptom” has no right to indicate the presence of a “disease”. On the contrary, if you see at least one of the problems listed above, then silent blocks need to be changed urgently.

They're getting ready to replace them

Replacing silent blocks on the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

Most people are afraid to change quiet houses. Although the present is quite ordinary. However, you need to prepare first. You must have a puller. Using it, you can not only remove the silent blocks, but also return them to their original position after completing all the maneuvers. What is a puller? This is a tool consisting of 2 tubes and 2 washers.

Note: pullers are different. However, when choosing them, you need to pay attention to the fact that they are suitable for silent blocks. When you take the shooter, there is an option and do it yourself.

How to make a puller

Hoist for silent blocks

A more suitable version of the puller. shooter with three arms. To create it you need to have the following materials:

Sheet metal 10 mm wide.
The iron is round and has a diameter of 30 mm.
Screw.

Replacing silent blocks of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

Usually take the photo without hassle if you follow the annotation:

Draw the legs of the puller. Their length should be approximately 20 cm.
Apply the design to the sheet metal.
Cut the legs and sand them down.
At the top of the legs you need to drill 3.2 holes for the bolts.
Next you need to make a kernel, which requires a useful round log. The threaded hole must be drilled. Welded in two leg holders (6 in total).

Replacing front suspension silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

Last detail. screw. Drill holes in the top of the screw.
All that remains is to assemble the shooter. To do this, insert the screw into the core and attach the tabs to it.

Replacement of silent blocks of the forearm

Replacing silent blocks on front control arms from a VAZ 2110

Do it yourself repair of the front suspension of VAZ 2110-12. (Replacement of ball bearings and silent daisy blocks).

In this case, video. my first experience of replacing ball bearings and silent blocks on my own. front

VAZ
levers .

VAZ 2110. Chassis repair.

Replacement of silent blocks and bushings. Replacement of bushings and stabilizer struts. Replacing the front

beams.

Replacing them includes the following steps:

Raise the car to the jack and block it.
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the upper arm. However, before you do this, you need to carefully look to see if the silent blocks slide in the lever. They must be stationary.

Front wheel hub

This part of the front suspension of the VAZ-2110 is located on the steering knuckle, connected to the strut and ball joint. It contains a cylindrical bearing in which the CV joint tip rotates. Using two bolts located on the steering knuckle, the wheel camber angle is adjusted.

When making repairs, be sure to remember how these elements were installed relative to each other. Otherwise, you risk accelerating the wear of your car's tires. At the bottom of the fist there is a hole for the ball joint pin. The hub itself has four threaded holes for fastening the wheel and two for screwing in the guide pins.

Main components

The front suspension of the VAZ-2110 includes the following elements:

Shock absorber strut with welded steering knuckle.
The ball joint that connects the lower control arm to the wheel hub.
A support bearing is a device mounted on the body. With its help, the stand rotates around its axis.
Hub - with the help of this mechanism, the CV joint rotates and motion is transmitted to the wheel. Installed on the steering knuckle.
The levers fix the suspension elements and do not allow them to move in the longitudinal direction.

Each suspension element has its own characteristics; when it fails, characteristic signs will appear. It is by them that you can determine the breakdown.

Support bearing

This element allows for a movable connection between the shock absorber rod and the car body. After all, do not forget that the shock-absorbing strut serves as a rotating mechanism. Consequently, it must rotate freely along its axis, having movable supports at the bottom and top. A support bearing is a simple hinge. Its operating principle is similar to any other bearing. But the VAZ 2110 suspension (front) will not be able to function normally without it. Pay attention to the condition of this item. The fact is that if it fails, anything can happen. For example, a knocking or grinding noise may occur. And if the bearing jams, it will be impossible to turn the steering wheel at all. Therefore, try to replace it in a timely manner. Yes, it cannot be repaired; only the installation of a new element is required.

We will replace

— Overhaul of the engine - overhaul of the removed engine - removal and installation - oil in the hydraulic booster - oil in the engine VAZ 2110-2111-2112, Lada Priora, Largus - engine valves - brake piston ring pads - gearbox mechanical repair - steering knuckle assembly - sump - engine crankcase - Spark wheel bearing - exhaust pipe Alexander Kalyuzhin, 2022. - cylinder head gaskets VAZ 2110-2111-2112, Lada Priora, Largus - valve cover gaskets - rear or front springs - radiator VAZ 2110-2111-2112, Lada Priora, Largus - camshaft - steering rack mechanism - steering tip left or right - steering rod right or left - lower front suspension arm right or left - rear hub - starter VAZ 2110-2111-2112, Lada Priora, Largus - front hub with knuckle and brake disc assembly - clutch - fuel pump - fuel filter - ball joint VAZ 2110-2111-2112, Lada Priora, Largus - ball joint with rivets - Daewoo internal CV joint - CV joint, Spark external - CV joint, external boot - cabin filter, oil Alexander Kalyuzhin, 2022.

Possible breakdowns

If you hear a knock in the front suspension while driving, the main reasons may be:

Faults in the rack;
The bolts have become loose, the stretch marks or cushions with which the cross member is equipped may have worn out;
The attachment to the body has become loose;
The rubber parts have collapsed, and the knocking has a distinct “metallic” sound;
A “limp” or even a broken spring knocks;
Wear of hinges;
Knocking due to wheel imbalance.

In principle, in any of the listed cases, repairing the VAZ 2110 front suspension, done by yourself, can help, during which you need to replace a worn part or (in the latter case, the reasons why a knock is heard) - balance the wheel.

Vehicle pull to the side

The car pulls to the side when driving straight. The reasons for this malfunction may include:

Each spring has its own compression ratio. In this case, the spring that has lost its elasticity must be replaced;
Tires have different pressures. We check and correct;
The rubber element near one of the strut supports was destroyed. At the same time, a characteristic knocking sound is also heard while driving. The problem is solved by replacing this element;
The wheel alignment angles are incorrect. Increased tire wear may be associated with this malfunction. If you can’t handle it yourself, it’s better to entrust this task to specialists.

Front suspension arm

The design includes such an element as the front suspension arm of the VAZ-2110. It connects the hub through the ball joint and the car body. The lever has rubber-metal bushings - silent blocks. With their help, the suspension element moves in a vertical plane when moving. In fact, there is almost nothing to break in this mechanism - it is very strong and reliable. The “weakest link” is the silent block.

Over time, under the influence of loads, high temperatures, and liquids, the rubber is destroyed, which leads to deterioration in the performance of the suspension. When silent blocks break, extraneous sounds appear and play in the suspension increases. There is practically nothing left to break. The lever itself can only collapse, but this happens only after a serious accident. When hitting curbs or potholes, it is impossible to bend or break the lever.

Spherical bearing

The VAZ 2110 front suspension arm is attached to the hub using a ball joint. If you have consulted the reference literature, you may know that this node is practically invulnerable. It is difficult to break it and put it in bad shape. Unfortunately, the support still breaks. And its resource largely depends on the following factors:

Driving style.
Quality of the road surface.
Original quality of the product.

Very often, it is because of a ball failure that a knocking sound appears from the front suspension of the VAZ 2110. Moreover, it can be observed both when the car is moving and when passengers are boarding and disembarking. And it doesn’t matter how fast you move or which direction you turn. But knocking in the suspension is not uncommon. And if it appeared due to a ball joint, then repairs will not be very expensive.

Why does the car pull to the side?

Sometimes drivers notice how, when driving in a straight line, the car begins to pull to the side. There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

Each spring has its own specific compression ratio. If it loses elasticity, the element must be replaced;
Tires may have different pressures. Check this first;
A rubber component on one of the strut supports has collapsed. In such a situation, a characteristic knock may appear. The situation can be corrected by simply replacing the element;
The wheels are set at the wrong angle. A common cause of tire wear. It is better to trust such a problem to a specialist, since it is difficult to repair the front suspension on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands in case of such a malfunction.

Why does the car pull to the side?

Sometimes drivers notice how, when driving in a straight line, the car begins to pull to the side. There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

Each spring has its own specific compression ratio. If it loses elasticity, the element must be replaced;
Tires may have different pressures. Check this first;
A rubber component on one of the strut supports has collapsed. In such a situation, a characteristic knock may appear. The situation can be corrected by simply replacing the element;
The wheels are set at the wrong angle. A common cause of tire wear. It is better to trust such a problem to a specialist, since it is difficult to repair the front suspension on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands in case of such a malfunction.

Typical faults

The front suspension is characterized by certain breakdowns, which are determined by two phenomena:

They should be considered separately, since the reasons for their appearance are different.

Knocks

If you start to hear knocking noises coming from the front suspension, this could be caused by several reasons:

The rack has certain faults;
The ties on the cross member, the cushions are worn out or the bolts are loose;
The attachment to the body was not strong enough;
The springs have failed;
The hinges are worn out;
The rubber part of the suspension has broken its integrity. The knock should be clear, like the impact of metal on metal;
Wheel alignment is out of balance.

If you do not hear a knock, but a noise, then the causes of front suspension problems may be as follows:

The bolts that secure the stabilizer bar to the body have become loose;
The rubber components in the strut support have collapsed;
The rubber pads of the coupler or rod are worn out;
The suspension spring has broken or violated its geometry;
The wheels are unbalanced;
The compression stroke buffer has collapsed.

Increased tire wear

If you are not a fan of fast acceleration, harsh braking, or do not overload the car, then the reasons for increased wear may be:

The wheel alignment angles are incorrect;
The hinges are worn out;
Wheel balance is off.

Examination

Experts recommend paying special attention to the protective covers of the joints, monitoring their condition, and also checking the front suspension for mechanical damage.
Make sure that neither the front suspension arm of the VAZ 2110 nor any other element has cracks or other visible damage. Pay attention to checking the connection points of the elements.
If the components are deformed, the angle of the wheels will most likely be disrupted and they will no longer be able to be adjusted.
Check ball joints, hinges, upper stack mounts, cushions. If there are breaks in the rubber elements, they must be replaced.
Measure the distance between the lower arm and the brake disc. This way you can check the condition of the suspension joint. If the distance is more than 0.8 millimeters, the hinge must be replaced with a new one.
If the buffer shows signs of destruction, it should be replaced immediately.
The spring is replaced if it has failed or sagged.
Ball joints are replaced when they are worn or deformed. Other hinges must be replaced if they or the stabilizer bar struts are worn out.
All rubber elements change under conditions of deformation or failure.
If the fastening of the upper strut mount to the body is loose, simply try to tighten the fastening. Most likely, no major intervention will be required.

Main front suspension components

The main element of the front suspension is a hydraulic telescopic strut, which is simply irreplaceable in the matter of shock absorption and ensuring a comfortable ride on the car. The car won’t shake much, and going through every hole won’t turn your trip into a nightmare.

To change the wheel camber, there is a strut in the front suspension. To be more precise, the steering knuckle and the upper bolt, which has an eccentric washer and a belt, are responsible for this process.

Mounted on the rack:

Special springs;
Buffer to limit the compression stroke. On the VAZ 2110 this element is made of polyurethane;
Upper support. It is attached to the rack, to which, in turn, the mudguard is attached. Please note that only self-locking nuts are used for fixing. Therefore, ordinary nuts will not work for repairs;
Bearing to ensure rotation of the stand together with the wheels;
Shock absorbers with spring and plunger.

The ball joint serves to combine the steering knuckle and the lever, that is, the lower part of the suspension. Rubber-metal hinges combine the lower arms, longitudinal braces, and cross member supports.

By the way, the cross member of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 is a bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the center it is attached to the body using a rubber cushion.

This is a brief diagram of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110, your instruction manual will help you get to know it better. Many motorists underestimate the importance of this literature, which the manufacturer attaches to each of its cars. But in fact, the necessary, useful and important information about each component, unit and system of the machine is presented in detail and in all colors. Including the front suspension, of course.

The part is installed quite simply

Having opened the hood, you need to unscrew the nuts from the bolts of the strut stops, install a brace on the bolts and screw the nuts into place. When driving at low speeds when maneuvering, the effect of the stretch will be almost imperceptible. But as the speed increases, changes are immediately felt. The car becomes more “obedient”, roll is significantly reduced when cornering - you get the feeling that the car has become more reliable.

To install the front strut extension, the car must be placed on a level area without slopes. The brace should fit freely onto the studs of the upper posts. If small discrepancies (a few millimeters) are detected, you can try to “pull” the body in the right direction. If the discrepancy is much greater, then an adjustable stretch will help you better.

Many car owners install an additional fourth engine mount. It allows you to limit the maximum movement of the engine when hitting an obstacle and a sharp start. Some car owners also believe that the additional support prevents the gears from disengaging themselves.

Shock absorber

The basis of the entire structure is the shock absorber strut. It houses the front suspension spring. The operation of the entire mechanism is most efficient if these elements are in good condition. In particular, there must be sufficient oil inside the rack. And the spring should not be “sagging”. If the car is used in harsh conditions for a long time, the length of the spring decreases gradually. Despite its apparent rigidity and strength, the coils become closer to each other. Even half a centimeter of drawdown will make itself felt - the entire suspension will begin to work ineffectively. This is one of the elements that makes up the front suspension of the VAZ 2110. You can even repair it yourself. As for the shock absorber itself, try to keep it clean. In particular, it is imperative to change the boot if cuts or cracks suddenly appear on it. Even a small amount of dust will make itself felt very soon. The seal will certainly collapse and the oil will begin to come out.

Main front suspension components

The main element of the front suspension is considered to be a hydraulic telescopic strut, which is simply irreplaceable in the matter of shock absorption and ensuring a comfortable ride on the car. The car won’t shake much, and going through every hole won’t turn your trip into a nightmare.

Mounted on the rack:

Special springs;
Buffer to limit the compression stroke. On the VAZ 2110 this element is made of polyurethane;
Upper support. It is attached to the rack, to which, in turn, the mudguard is attached. Please note that only self-locking nuts are used for fixing. Therefore, ordinary nuts will not work for repairs;
Bearing to ensure rotation of the stand together with the wheels;
Shock absorbers with spring and plunger.

By the way, the cross member of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 is a bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the center it is attached to the body using a rubber cushion.

Purpose

The wheels are attached to the front suspension; the unit provides shock absorption for the “front” of the car, is responsible for stability while driving, wheel adjustment, camber, and toe-in.

The front suspension design of the VAZ 2110 is quite complex, but any of you can figure it out. The main thing here is to arm yourself with an instruction manual, as well as understand the essence of the main angles.