Alternator belt for VAZ 2107 injector size

How to replace the alternator belt on a VAZ 2107

The quality of such a Soviet, and now Russian car, as the VAZ 2107 has been proven over the years. Over time, during the operation of any car, including foreign cars, the need arises to replace some important wearable elements. These engine elements include the alternator belt of the VAZ 2107 car. How to determine that the VAZ 2107 alternator belt needs to be replaced, what is required to carry out such a procedure, as well as the purpose of the device, we will find out in the material.

The need to replace the belt

Initially, it is important to note that the generator and its drive on a VAZ 2107 car, both injection and carburetor, are absolutely similar. The only difference between an injector and a carburetor is that the injector is equipped with a crankshaft position sensor. When it is necessary to replace the alternator belt on an injection-type VAZ 2107, this sensor must be removed.

During the operation of the VAZ-2107 car, the part in question wears out. The need to replace an element can be determined by the following signs:

• the appearance of cracks;
• whistling when starting the engine, or when sharply pressing the gas pedal, or after driving through a puddle;
• disheveled;
• sagging.

It is important to know! If the alternator belt breaks on a VAZ 21074, the engine will quickly heat up, which can lead to boiling. The battery remains without recharging, so after a short period of time it will run out.

The device in question, unless of course it is a defect, has a certain resource during normal operation of the vehicle. This resource is usually 50-60 thousand kilometers, after which the belt should in any case be changed. How to do this not only correctly, but also quickly, we will consider in the material.

Instructions for replacing the alternator belt

You must initially purchase a new item. Which belt is best to install on a VAZ 2107 depends on the amount of finances available to the owner of the “Seven”. Experts recommend not saving on such an important element and purchasing a Bosch brand part. Products of this brand are of good quality, which is actually necessary to achieve a long service life of the main components of the car.

The belt cannot be repaired, so at the first sign of wear, it must be replaced.

At the next stage, you will need to make sure that you have the necessary list of materials: open-end wrenches for “17” and “19”, a pry bar and a screwdriver. Only after this we begin to replace the product:

1. First, loosen the nut that secures the generator itself to the adjustment bar.
2. After this, you need to use a pry bar to press the generator to the motor. On injection "sevens" it is necessary to remove the crankshaft sensor.
3. Now we remove the old element and put a new one in its place.
4. To tighten the belt, you will need to use a pry bar to move the generator. After the device is in place, you can fix the nut.
5. If you tighten the belt, then accelerated wear of the pump bearings and the generator itself will begin, which will have a bad effect on the service life of these devices. Also, the belt itself can break very quickly.

What size should the alternator belt be?

The belt serves as the link between the crankshaft and the generator shaft, which provides electricity for the vehicle. If it breaks, the car will stop. The product is a rubber ring, the condition of which should be constantly monitored and changed as necessary.

Belts are evaluated according to the following parameters:

There are three types:

The original for the VAZ 2106 has a size of 10x944 with a wedge angle of 39 degrees. It is easy to install and adjust. You should buy original products. Poor quality ones may not meet the required dimensions and may stretch during operation, which will affect the power of the power unit. These products are consumables that are recommended to be changed every 15 thousand or when defects are detected.

Size chart for poly V-belts

Automotive belts are divided into several main types - wide, normal-section drive belts and fan belts. Each belt for air conditioning, alternator and other components is selected depending on the type of car model. Wrapped straps are used to protect the side parts from wear and provide integrity to the entire structure. Cotton and nylon are used as outer covering. Toothed threaded belts transmit forces using the transverse teeth of the belt and the drive mechanism; they are able to maintain a given position of the shafts. When used, such belts do not need to be lubricated; they practically do not stretch or vibrate.

The Rincom company offers a range of components and spare parts for automobiles, including automotive V-belts and poly-V-belts. The company's catalog presents belts for various engines: domestic and imported, cars, trucks, tractors, combines.

Samples of supplied car belts:

Any car belts that are not in our catalog can be manufactured and supplied to order for various types of passenger cars and trucks of domestic and imported production!

VAZ engine belts

2108-3701720

AVX10-715

Alternator belt VAZ 2108-2115, 2121

2101-1308020

AVX10-944

Alternator drive belt VAZ 2101-2107, 2121

21082-3701720

6PK-700

Alternator belt VAZ 2108-2115

2110-3701720

6PK-738

Alternator drive belt and power steering VAZ 2108-2112

2123-1041020

5PK-1888

Belt of power units VAZ 2123 (Niva-Chevrolet)

21230-1041150

4PK-815

Drive belt for air conditioning compressor VAZ 2123 (Niva-Chevrolet)

Replacement instructions

How to replace the alternator belt with your own hands?

Let's look at the process using the VAZ 2108 as an example:

1. First, the strap is dismantled. To remove the RG, you will need to loosen the fixing nuts at the bottom and on the tensioner itself. During loosening, the generator itself should be moved towards the motor, after which the loosened strap is simply removed from the shafts.
2. How to install the alternator belt? In this case, there is nothing complicated - the process of installing the belt is carried out according to the same scheme. The strap is installed on the pulleys, after which the generator is simply moved away from the power unit using a pry bar.
3. The tension should be maintained using a crowbar, while the nut on the tensioner should be tightened. Next, you need to tighten the nut and check the installation process. If after replacement there are no extraneous sounds when starting the engine, then the procedure was carried out correctly. If there is a whistle, tighten the strap.

Sorry, there are no surveys available at this time.

DISMANTLING WORK

It is recommended to remove the generator from the “seven” after the engine has cooled down. It is not recommended to work with vehicle components immediately after driving due to high temperatures and the risk of injury.

Immediately before removing the generator, you will need to remove the right front wheel, since the installation can only be reached from under the bottom of the car through the right fender.

It is imperative to securely fix the position of the car with a jack and auxiliary devices (hemp, stands) in order to eliminate the risk of the car falling during operation.

The progress of work comes down to the sequential implementation of the following actions:

• Find the generator housing in the mechanical structure of the car, feel for the bar that secures it to the engine.
• Using a wrench, unscrew the fastening nut halfway.
• Unscrew the nut on the bracket, but do not remove it from the stud.
• The generator housing can be pulled and moved in any direction - this will become possible due to the loose fastening.
• Remove the belt from the landing pulleys and remove it from the work area.
• Disconnect all incoming wires to the generator housing.
• Unscrew the fastening nuts completely.
• Pull the generator towards you and remove it from under the body.

Belts for MAZ vehicles

1307170

6PK-860

Grooved drive belt MAZ-EURO 3

9001887 236

14×10-887

Pump belt

9001887 236

BX-887

Pump belt

9001900 7511

11×10-900

YaMZ-7511 compressor belt

9001937 236

14×10-937

Compressor belt

9001937 236

BX-937

Compressor belt

9001987 236

14×10-987

Power steering belt

9001987 236

BX-987

Power steering belt

AVX13-1045

YaMZ-7511 pump belt

Disk options

When choosing wheels for the VAZ 2107, consider strength, balancing and size

wheels The main parameters that you pay attention to when purchasing. these are radius and width. The manufacturer equipped the car with standard wheels marked 5Jx13H2 ET29. The numbers and letters indicate the following:

• “five” is the rim width in inches;
• “.” profile;
• “13” rim diameter, inches;
• “H2” is the number of irregularities on the wheel rim;
• “ET” letter designation of wheel rim offset;
• “29” rim offset, mm.

The actual disk settings are as follows:

• The number of holes and the circle diameter on the wheels (bolt pattern) is 4x98 mm.
• The diameter of the sleeve is 58.5 mm.
• Rim diameter 13-15”.
• Wheel offset 15-30 mm.
• Recommended width is 5.0-6.0”.
• Mount M12x1.25.

It’s better not to install wider “Seven” rims. For them you need to choose the right tires. They are larger than the fender liners and can touch or rub against the vehicle's structural components.

Consequences of installing wide disks:

• Rapid contamination of the side of the machine.
• When the wheels turn, they rub against the fenders of the board and body, which leads to severe wear and tear on the car.
• While driving, the tires may touch the brakes, which can lead to an accident on the road.
• Increased wear on the wheel bearings as they will bear a greater load.

Discs with a small rim protrusion (the disc will stick out more from the car) are also not installed. In this case, the hub bearing takes on most of the load, so it can quickly fail or jam.

Review of the best summer and winter tires

It's a good idea to buy two sets of tires. For winter it is better to buy studded ones. Michelin Latitude Sport 3 is a good option for summer. It has good stability regardless of the quality of the road surface and makes it easier to overcome even heavy mud.

Nokian Hakka Black has a relatively high cost. However, compared to others, it performs well in the long term. Even with heavy driving it can easily withstand more than 5 years.

General Altimax Sport. A relatively inexpensive option for use in the warmer months. Even at high speeds this tire model is practically inaudible. Allows you to easily move at speeds up to 190 km/h.

FULDA KRISTALL MONTERO 3 has an unusual appearance. The deep tread and the presence of a large number of longitudinal grooves allow you to move through puddles at high speed. Hydroplaning is excluded.

PREMIORRI SOLAZO. This is a tire that allows you to move without problems even in difficult road conditions. The low weight of the tire saves fuel.

The choice of winter tires should be taken more seriously. With a limited budget KAMA 505 Irbis. good decision. The protector deteriorates quickly. However, this point is fully justified by the low cost of the model. Positioned as all-season.

Nokian Hakkapelitta 8. modern tire for passenger cars. It differs from analogues in reliability and maneuverability.

Nordmaster tires have an original tread pattern and a number of other important advantages. The presence of studs allows the driver to feel confident on asphalt and ice.

A distinctive feature of the TungaMaster is the presence of solid ribs in the design. They provide rigidity, but at the same time ease of movement of the car.

READ How to Tighten the Alternator Belt on a Ford Focus

Atmel CordiantPolar. a classic solution with excellent technical characteristics. A good solution for winter. Reliable and inexpensive tires.

Use recommended tires. guarantee of road safety. It is important to monitor the condition of the tread and the level of pressure inside the wheels. This will avoid problems on the road and make driving easier.

Selecting a pump and alternator belt | Topic author: Rasikha

People, tell me which company is better to buy?

Lyokha (Henrika) I’ll tell you one thing about the pump: don’t use it with a plastic impeller.

Dmitry (Pahoran) Bosch belt

Alexey (Steropes) About pumps here https://www.semerka.info/forum/viewtopic.php? f=5&t..

Alexey (Steropes) took it because I got a counterfeit one, it didn’t last even five thousand, the bearing became loose, I installed the same one, but bought in another store - so far everything is fine. But in general, most likely, if it’s a real part, it will serve its purpose. Before you buy, you need to look at what’s in the store, and on the manufacturer’s website, learn to distinguish a counterfeit from a real part. Regarding the belt: Is there a difference? in my opinion, the best belt, there are 2 belts - 1 under the hood and one in the trunk, I have the most ridiculous rubles for 30-40 thousand 20 have already left

Alexey (Steropes) What about the pump from Shnivy? :))

Alexey (Steropes) Well, yesterday I seemed to have made up my mind.

Sergey (Boniface) I found 2 pumps in my grandfather’s garage, made back in the USSR, wrapped in oiled paper, but for some reason without impellers, replaced with the old one, then it’s already running for 80 thousand

Roman (Gillis) is lucky! in the USSR they knew how to make spare parts.

Nikolay (Haurahi) Pump TZA 2 years so far ok. Before that, the Luzar lasted for half a month, took it to the store, changed it again for a Luzar for about a month and a half and it also squeaked. The belt is an ordinary one, in my opinion, 70 rubles. More than 70 thousand have passed until it falls apart, but there is still a spare in the trunk,

Alexey (Steropes) Nikolay, did you call the TZA by number on their website? Does this really work? And the day before yesterday I bought HEPU for 740 rubles. I’ll wait with the replacement until it’s warmer and when the snow melts - I’m already tired of cleaning the entrance to the garage.

Nikolay (Haurahi) Alexey, I didn’t call the number on the website because I didn’t use the Internet at that time. But it’s still good that this pump has been spinning for the second year without play or whistling. Well, the current quality of the equipment leaves much to be desired, and even that “Ninja”, in my opinion, doesn’t give a damn what is stamped, that’s why you come across plastic pistons and bearings similar to an aluminum alloy; they are molded from what is available.

Roman (Gillis) Alexey, Congratulations on your purchase. Good stuff. I installed the same one for myself two years ago. Now I’m driving happily)))

Dmitry (Pahoran) Alexey, please let me know how the pump is? how far did you travel?

Alexey (Steropes) Well, September is already upon us. The flight is normal. I didn’t note how many in km - it was a little later that I came up with the idea of ​​keeping a logbook.)) But I repeat - I didn’t see any negative reviews on the net. Only positive ones. That’s why I chose Hepu.

Replacing the Priora alternator belt

The process of replacing the alternator belt on a Priora differs significantly depending on the configuration. If you have a car without power steering and air conditioning, then everything will be quite simple. And the usual tools that every car owner has will suffice.

But if you have power steering/electric steering without air conditioning, or with air conditioning without power steering, or both, you will have to tinker. In such vehicle configurations, the alternator belt is wrapped around the engine mount. To replace it, you will need to unscrew one of the supports and hang the engine. In addition, you will also have to unscrew the right fender liner and climb from the side. You won't need any special tools, but you still need an expanded set of wrenches, ratchets, sockets and extensions.

Video “Adjusting the VAZ generator strap”

This video shows how to properly adjust the alternator strap on VAZ models.

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How to tighten the alternator belt on a VAZ 2107

If you correctly determine what exactly is causing the slippage, it is quite possible to fix the problem yourself. There are two reasons why the alternator belt slips:

Also, a whistle, similar to the sound of slipping, can be produced by a faulty generator bearing. In any of these cases, repairs do not require particularly high qualifications and do not take much time. Specialized devices and instruments are also not required. You will need a pry bar and two open-end wrenches (or heads) for 17 and 19. The easiest way is to eliminate the weak tension of the generator belt. Usually, over time, the belt stretches a little and begins to slip on the pulleys, producing an unpleasant whistle. The VAZ 2107 generator belt, the size of which exceeds the maximum permissible, must be replaced. You should also change the belt if it is cracked or has noticeable damage.

Changing the belt on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Removal

It is necessary to have access to the top and bottom of the car. If you have a crankcase protection installed at the bottom, then you will have to remove it accordingly; read the details in the article: “Replacing the crankcase protection on a VAZ.”

Note! Removing the battery will make the belt easier to access. The process is described in the article: “Replacing the battery in cars.”

Evaluate the appearance of the belt. If the condition is good, check the tension and tighten it if necessary. It’s easy to check: press the belt with your fingers with a force of 10 kg anywhere. Either in place “A” the distance by which the belt should bend will be 10-15 mm, or in place “B” 12-17 mm (see picture).

Note! It is more convenient to press and check the deflection at point “A”. Any deviation from the norm requires tightening the belt. Remember, do not remove the belt from the pulleys unless you intend to replace them!

Move to the lower part of the car and unscrew the lower nut of the generator one turn (see small photo), get out from under the car and go to the engine compartment. Loosen the nut of the upper fastening of the generator one or two turns (red arrow in the photo), an extension with a universal joint and a union head will help you (tools are indicated by a blue arrow). Loosen through the battery installation bar.

Note! The top nut securing the generator to the bar is screwed differently for everyone, so when you feel that the nut goes on easily (be careful not to unscrew it completely), then stop unscrewing immediately!

Let's move on to changing the belt. Use your hands to move the alternator towards the engine and remove the belt. If you just need to adjust, then insert a mounting blade between the engine and between the generator itself (see photo below), and, using the blade as a lever, move the generator away from the engine. Holding it in this position with a spatula, tighten the upper nut securing the generator to the bar and the lower one too. Release the paddle and remove it, check the belt tension and, if necessary, perform the operation again (if the tension is not within the normal range).

Note! Having unscrewed both nuts, first remove the belt from the upper pulley, and only then from the steel ones. The topmost one is the cooling pump pulley. On fuel-injected cars, in addition, remove the crankshaft position sensor, otherwise it will not allow you to remove the belt, and you will break the crankshaft sensor. For details, read the article: “Replacing the crankshaft position sensor.”

Installation

First, install the belt on the crankshaft pulley. In the image above, look at the pulley indicated by number 3, the generator pulley by number 2 and the pump pulley by number 1. Move the generator completely towards the engine, if it is moved, but the belt still does not install, then carefully turn the pump pulley (upper) by hand, or at the extreme In this case, ask an assistant to use a crooked starter to turn the pulley a little, while you put the belt on the upper pulley of the pump.

Alternator belt dimensions VAZ 2110-215, Kalina, Priora

There are a lot of sizes of alternator belts, it seems that they made a separate belt for a specific model, but there are several sizes that are most often used and are suitable for all models of the tenth family.

Let's start, perhaps, with the general model of a wide multi-ribbed belt, which was installed on standard VAZ models and the first generators:

• VAZ 2108 – VAZ 2115 size – 698 mm.

Models without power steering and air conditioning:

Types of devices installed on the VAZ-1111

A little about what kind of generator is used at Oka. The small car was equipped with several types of this unit. The most common and frequently encountered generator is type 37.3701, which was also installed on the VAZ models of the classic family (21010-2107), as well as the VAZ-2108. On some variants of the Oka, a device model 371.3701 was installed. Both of these options are identical in performance characteristics and differ only in minor design features.

The third version of the generator installed on the Oka is type 26.3771. In terms of performance characteristics, it is the same as 37.3701, but has a slightly different design, and the overall dimensions are smaller. It’s not difficult to visually recognize which generator is on the Oka. Model 26.3771 has internal ventilation (there are no impellers on the outside), while 37.3701 has external ventilation, so the latter has a pulley combined with the impeller.

Types of belts

The design features of the engine mean that the belts are also different. In particular, the size of the alternator belt and its shape may change. The price of the product also depends on the design. The size depends on the specific car model, and not all belts are interchangeable.

V-belts are the simplest. They are installed in various VAZ models and other domestic cars. The name is associated with the trapezoidal shape of the product. Such a belt is capable of transmitting enormous forces and withstanding heavy loads. However, it is not prone to kinking and its use is limited to one or two knots.

Toothed belts are a variation of the previous type with transverse grooves. This design has increased transmission accuracy and can be used in timing operation.

Poly V-belts have several longitudinal grooves on their working surface. Their design resembles several V-belts. They have greater flexibility and are used to provide torque to several units. The installation pattern of such belts depends on the design of the car.

Features and Issues

The drive belt has a complex structure, which is designed to ensure its basic qualities - flexibility, durability, wear resistance. The main material for making belts is special rubber (in some cases other materials), reinforced with polymer threads - very strong and elastic.

The main problems associated with the use of belt drives are breakage, delamination, sagging or wear. It is quite rare for a belt to break. This is mainly due to the wedge of one of the elements, to which the force from the crankshaft is transmitted. As a rule, most often the generator bearing fails and a break occurs. Belt delamination occurs due to a violation of the geometry of the entire structure.

Replacing the alternator belt avoids many problems, including severe wear and sagging when it whistles and slips on the pulleys.

Replacement and Maintenance

Maintenance of the generator drive comes down to regularly checking the belt tension by pressing at the distance specified in the instructions. A visual inspection is also carried out for delamination or other types of damage. This will allow you to timely adjust the generator tension belt using the tensioner pulley and avoid many problems in the future.

Belt replacement is regulated by the manufacturer after a mileage of 50-60 thousand kilometers. You can install a timing belt on your own in any car, having some experience and ingenuity. At least replacing it yourself will cost you much less than service station services.

We change it with our own hands

It is more convenient to perform the replacement on an overpass or inspection ditch. In extreme cases, you can use a jack. Before work, you should prepare a set of tools and new consumables.

The drive belt is located in the front of the engine compartment and is tensioned over the alternator, crankshaft and cooling system pump pulleys. The strength of its tension can be checked by deflection in two places:

• between the crankshaft pulley and the pump, the deflection should be within 1.2 - 1.7 cm;
• between the pump and generator pulley – 1 -1.5 cm.

If there is a discrepancy, adjustment must be made.

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Stages of work

The tensioning procedure is one of the replacement stages, which consists of the following steps:

1. First you need to unscrew the upper mounting bolt of the generator, which acts as a tensioner. There is no need to unscrew it completely; a couple of turns are enough to loosen the strap.
2. Then you need to move under the car and loosen the lower nut securing the unit.
3. Next, holding the upper fastening nut, you need to move the device towards the cylinders until the minimum tension is achieved.

   
   Loosen the tension nut

   Read also:  Replacing the front suspension extension of a VAZ 2170 Priora
4. Now the strap can be easily removed from the pulleys. It is better to remove it from the water pump pulley first, and then from the rest.
5. The new consumable must be pulled sequentially onto all pulleys of the units.
6. Tension should be made by moving the tension nut. Turning clockwise increases the tension, turning it counterclockwise decreases it.
7. After adjustment, tighten the unit fastening nut.

Thus, replacing consumables on a VAZ 2106 is not difficult and can be done with your own hands. These skills will make it possible to avoid surprises on the road, you just need to have a consumable in the trunk.

Where is the generator located on the VAZ 2107

The generator on the VAZ 2107 functions in close connection with the battery. Like any other car, this device generates electricity to power all the elements of the car. In this case, the generator performs its function only when the engine is running.

READ Replacing Shock Absorber Bushings VAZ 2107

Dimensions of belts used on automobile and tractor engines.

Tape type Engine or machine Production tape Engine or machine manufacturer 1-8.5×8-600 Snowmobile Lynx 1-11×10-1775 GAZ-66, 71, 73, PAZ-3205 1-8.5×8-665 Snowmobile Buran, YaMZ- 238EK and 238AK (Don combine) 1-8.5x8-833 GAZ-53A. GAZ-53-2, ZMZ-53, YuMZ-451MG, MP, ED-181T, M-40, Moskvich-2138, Moskvich-2136) 1-8.5×8-850 Moskvich-412E, Moskvich-2136, YaMZ -236, YaMZ-238 1-8.5×8-875 M-412E (Moskvich-412IE, Moskvich-21251, Moskvich-2140, Moskvich-2137) 1-8.5×8-933 Zaporozhets ZAZ-965, A -01M (T-4A), A-41 (DT-75M) 1-8.5×8-1018 GAZ-21, GAZ-24 Volga, GAZ-13, GAZ-31 Chaika, SMD-60 (T-150 tractor) , MeMZ-963P 1-8.5×8-1030 YuMZ-451, YuMZ-4146, Volga-2410, 31029, Air Force, Gazelle 1-8.5x8-1120 SMD-23/24, 31/32, Ural-744 , Don 1-8.5x8-1235 Washing machine Vesta 1-11x10-1600 ZMZ-6506, ZMZ-3402, SMD-72.74 1-8.5x8-1250 KAMAZ, YaMZ-740, URAL-745 1-8.5× 8-1320 YaMZ-740, KAMAZ, URAL-843, 744, 1320, 43223, ZIL-133GYA 1-10x8-715 VAZ-2108, 2109 with extended life, Oka Generator 1-10x8-820 VAZ-1111 1-10x8- 944 VAZ-2101-2107, Niva-2121, Zhiguli (01-06), MEMZ-966 (ZAZ-966) 1-11×10-750 Tatras, Ikar 1-11×10-900 YaMZ_841, 842, MAZ-14 , Gazelle, GAZ-14 1-11x10-950 YaMZ-236, YaMZ-238, D-65 1-11x10-1045 GAZ-53, BalaZ-75211, KrAZ-960, 6443, 6505, 6437, Ural-745, YaMZ -236M2 (238M), YaMZ-238ND, ZMZ-73, 24D, 3402, 3403 1-11x10-1650 ZIL-133, ZMZ-65-06, ZMZ-3402, SMD-17K / 18K 1-11x10-1100 Ikarus, MAZ-6422, ZIL-114, Ural-744, SMD31/32 1-11x10-1150 GAZ-52-94 1-11x10-1775 GAZ-66, 71, 73, PAZ-3105 1-11x10-1120 SMD-23/ 24, 31/32, Ural-744 1-11x10-1180 YaMZ-840, 841, 8421, 8423, 8424, 238AK, 238EK 1-11x10-1220 ZIL-157KD, ZIL-645, ZMZ-14, GAZ-14 1 -11x10-1230 Ikarus, Bychok, ZIL-645, 157KD, ZMZ-14, ZMZ-505-10 1-11x10-1280 ZIL-114, 117, 4104, 41 1-11x10-1400 ZIL-118KA, PAZ-672, 3203, 3205, LAZ-698, LiAZ-5251, GAZ-66, YaMZ-8401 1-11x10-1450 PAZ-672, 3201, ZMZ-66-92, ZMZ-3403 1-11x10-1500 PAZ-3205, ZIL- 118, SMD-18N, DT-75, TB-1M, SMD-21/22 (Niva, Sibiryak combines), SMD (LTZ-155 pipeline)