Replacing the front suspension extension of a VAZ 2170 Priora

Tool:

  • Jack or ditch lift
  • Open-end wrench 19 mm
  • Open-end wrench 24 mm
  • Straight box spanner 17 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Straight box spanner 19 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Curved box spanner 24 mm
  • Ball joint puller
  • Driver for socket attachment
  • Torx wrench attachment E12
  • Wheel chock (shoe) - 2 pcs.
  • Punch
  • Large hammer
  • Bench vice
  • Chisel

Parts and consumables:

  • Silent block of the front suspension arm - 4 pcs.
  • Soap solution

Notes:

Remove the lever from the car to replace it or replace the silent blocks of the lever. The work to remove the left and right front suspension arms is similar. Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

Removing the front suspension arm

1. Disconnect the ball joint from the control arm as described in this article.

2. Unscrew the nut securing the brace to the front suspension arm and remove the washer as described here.

3. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the arm and remove the bolt as described in this article.

4. Using two 19 mm spanners, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body.

5. Using a soft metal drift, knock out and remove the bolt, then move the lever out of the bracket and remove it.

Replacing the silent block of the front suspension arm

1. Place the lever from the silent block in a vice and, using attachments, press it out of the suspension arm.

2. Before pressing in, moisten the new silent block with soapy water.

3. Knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel on both sides of the lever.

4. Pre-press new silent blocks in a vice and finally press them by striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer.

5. Install the lever in reverse order. Tighten the threaded connections of rubber-metal hinges after removing the jack or ditch lift.

The article is missing:

  • Photos of parts and consumables
  • High-quality photos of repairs

You can recognize problems in the front suspension system, and more specifically the silent blocks on the Lada Kalina, by the characteristic sounds it makes while driving. Thus, driving on an uneven road may be accompanied by various cracks, squeaks and other unpleasant noises. This situation not only causes great discomfort, but can also cause a more serious malfunction or cause an accident.

Replacing silent blocks on Kalina

Front suspension silent block close up

The silent blocks on the Lada Kalina car are located exactly the same as in the VAZs of previous years. These elements are located generally on or adjacent to the wishbone . You will have to change them either on the entire element at once, or by selecting the most damaged ones. Of course, if there is damage on one of them, the wishbone with rubber (stock – approx.) stabilizers must be removed and replaced with polyurethane analogues.

Removing the wishbone

  1. In order to begin work on replacing old silent blocks with new ones, you need to place the car on a viewing hole, a lift, or jack it up.
  2. Next, you need to remove the wheel and spray all the connections on the wishbone with WD-40.
  3. After the lubricant has penetrated into all hard-to-reach places, we begin to unscrew the bolts.
  4. First of all, we begin to dismantle the ball joint bolt, but before that we remove the cotter pin from the bolt.
  5. Then we unscrew the bolt securing the longitudinal tension hinge (where the “daisies” are attached - approx.) and remove it from the seat.

A generously lubricated bolt is a guarantee of success.

When dismantling this unit, there should be no problems.

For the best impact on the bolt, you can use a wrench extension.

Rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint

The rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint, or popularly simply “daisy”, is designed to take the brunt of the impact from uneven road surfaces; despite the fact that this element is very important, it is very easy to dismantle.

    Having previously clamped the lever in a vice, we knock out the silent blocks one by one using a chisel or a thin flat screwdriver.

Punching out “daisies” is not an easy task.

This is what the old suspension elements look like

To cause the least damage to silent blocks, it is better to place pieces of wood between the vices.

Stabilizer strut and cushion

  1. The stabilizer bar, or simply “eggs,” and the cushion provide the stabilizer bar with stable operation while driving the car.
  2. It is very easy to dismantle the “eggs”, just unscrew the mounting bolt from the transverse arm, and simply release the other end from the anti-roll bar by simple rocking.

Sometimes it happens that they just break

After unscrewing the fastening, it is very easy to remove the pillow, but putting on a new one is much more difficult.

Cross Arm Bracket

  1. The largest silent block of the lever located at the very base, despite the fact that it has, among others, more impressive dimensions, is not difficult to dismantle.
  2. The easiest option to remove it is to set it on fire. When the rubber on it burns out, you just have to take it out and clean the seat. (Of course, you can press it out through a vice, but this will take time and may cause some inconvenience).

Set of parts for mounting the air suspension of Lada Priora

The independent suspension on the Priora is installed on the car yourself, and the installation process is simple. Therefore, every car enthusiast can install air suspension on a Priora if you follow certain tips and recommendations from experts.

  • air spring;
  • compressor;
  • fasteners and braces;
  • pneumatic valves;
  • pressure gauge;
  • start button;
  • air supply line;
  • air pressure sensor;
  • start relay.

In the process of pumping compressed air into the airbag, the ground clearance of the Lada Priora changes. When the pressure in the air bag decreases, the ground clearance of the vehicle decreases. Adjusting the ride height is the main function of the Priora suspension airbag.

An independent suspension is mounted on the Priora using special fasteners and braces. Using these elements, the Lada Priora air suspension is attached to the car body. If you have some skills in working with metal, you can make these parts yourself, but it is best to order these fastening components for the Priora suspension and make them from a specialist. In this case, there will be a guarantee of high-quality manufacturing of components.

To install it in the suspension system on a Priora, you can use the same pressure gauge that is used in pneumatic systems operating at a pressure of a certain range. The start button is designed to adjust the state of the air suspension directly from the interior of the Lada Priora.

Important!

If during the work you find that the bolts and nuts are in poor condition (there are cracks, traces of severe rust, bad threads - approx.), then it is best to replace such elements with new ones, using high-quality steel bolts and nuts with a self-locking element .

Other front suspension elements

The remaining elements of the front suspension, which contain rubber-metal and metal hinges, are replaced immediately as an assembly. These include:

  • Spherical bearing.
  • Stretch bracket.
  • Steering end.

These elements cost about 500 rubles per set, and also do not require specific installation skills.

The device of the standard suspension of the Lada Priora

The support is secured using 3 nuts to the stand. Due to the presence of a high degree of elasticity, the support is capable of ensuring the rack swings during the operating stroke of the car suspension and vibration damping. The bearing built into the support allows the rack to rotate simultaneously with the wheels.

With the help of the latter, the angle of inclination of the rotation axis is adjusted. The rotary cam is equipped with a closed type bearing. A hub is mounted on the inner rings of the bearing to secure the wheel. The bearing is tightened with a nut on the shank located on the Lada Priora wheel drive housing and is not subject to adjustment. All hub nuts are interchangeable and have right-hand threads.

Causes of knocking in the front suspension

In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.

  1. The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface . A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
  2. If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack . If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
  3. The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity . Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
  4. And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.

If you are going to drive a car in winter, it would be a good idea to check the condition of the chassis and transmission so that you do not have to do repairs right on the road, in dirty snow slush. Any Granta owner can save both time and money if they check the car themselves. Today we are talking about the chassis and transmission.

LADA > Granta

Granta 38 4 new size

We make sure there is no play (knock). If there is a knock on the front wheel, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal. If the knocking noise disappears, it means the wheel bearing is faulty, and if the knocking noise remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out.

The hub bearings of the front and rear wheels are not adjustable and must be replaced if there is play.

To check the serviceability of the ball joint, insert a mounting blade between the suspension arm and the ball joint housing. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.

Is it possible to make a spacer yourself?

Of course you can, but you should know that spacers are divided into two types:

  • adjustable;
  • unregulated.

Remember that the spacer must be adjusted specifically to your vehicle.

If you have the patience, you can make them yourself. But remember that if you make them yourself, they will still look different from the branded spacer. Therefore, we recommend that you still buy a spacer in the store. From the statistical data, it can be noted that drivers most often give their preference to “Tehnomaster” and “Autoproduct”.

Installation of rear struts:

First you need to remove the wheel arch trim. Now you need to remove the lids of the glasses (this can be done using keys). Only after this can you install the purchased spacer on the shock absorber cup mounting rods. All that remains is to tighten all the nuts and adjust the spacer. Note! To make it easier for you to adjust them, you can unfasten the rear seat and tilt it forward.

Granta 39 7 new size

The suspension springs must not be damaged. Tearing, cracking and severe deformation of rubber bushings, cushions and compression buffers of shock absorbers are unacceptable.

Liquid leakage from shock absorbers is not allowed. A slight “fogging” of the shock absorber in its upper part, while maintaining the characteristics, is not a malfunction.

If the rubber element of the upper support of the front suspension telescopic strut settles or is destroyed, the support must be replaced.

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