Grant ss20 steering cardan

A couple of months ago I noticed that at the beginning of the rotation of the steering wheel there was a slight knocking sound, at first it was the steering tips, because... The anthers have been torn for a long time, I bought new steering tips, at the same time a set of front and rear silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer links. The other day before replacing the above elements, I decided to check the steering cardan, just in case, and yes, it turned out that it was loose, but everything turned out to be wrong with the steering tips Fine. I bought a new original one and replaced it in an hour or two. It’s inconvenient, of course, to change it, but there were no difficulties, I removed it by hand, and even straightened the steering wheel straight away (before removing it, I made marks everywhere and transferred them to the new part).

Here you can see the difference, on the old one (from below) the grease was squeezed out through the O-rings and wear began to appear.

After the replacement, the knocking sound disappeared when turning the steering wheel, and it also became quieter when driving over uneven surfaces, but I will still change the rubber bands in the chassis, even though they look even worse

The steering crosspiece is the key to the control of the car; it is responsible for transmitting the rotation of the wheel to the rack and pinion assembly through the steering shaft cardan (the crosspiece itself is attached to it). Not just the ease of driving, but the safety and health of all passengers depends on its correct functioning. If the car has been in use for more than 100 thousand kilometers, it most likely needs repairs; it is worth studying in advance the question of when and how to change the crosspiece on the steering cardan.

Cross design

The mechanism of the steering shaft crosspiece performs a transport-guiding function and is designed to transmit the torque of the wheel to the gear of the rack and pinion assembly. The transmission of torque is carried out by the steering shaft cardan, to which the crosspiece is attached. In many models of modern cars, the crosspiece performs the same function and has a similar shape. The cross itself consists of four identical protrusions, each of which is equipped with needle-type bearings. All elements of the cross are made of high-strength steel and must withstand high loads.

Analysis of typical complaints

The advice given at the beginning, to understand when the tapping occurs, makes it somewhat easier to find the cause. But this recommendation is effective only with a comprehensive diagnosis. For example, the mere fact of clanking in the pits is not enough; you need to listen to what is happening when the wheels are turned and whether there are any sounds in place.

If the test is done, go through common complaints.

The noise only appears when the steering wheel is turned. If nothing is transmitted to the steering wheel, then see “ball” in more detail. Perhaps it is not tightly attached to the steering knuckle or lever. For example, bolts are often forgotten to be tightened during wheel alignment.
The knock comes from the steering wheel. This is either a rack or a cardan on the shaft. If this only occurs on washboards and other irregularities, inspect the control shaft telescopic connection. Pay attention to the rack and pinion mechanism - the nuts securing it to the subframe or body may be loose.
The rattle is only on the straight line, quiet in turns. Rack, cardan, ball joints.

Signs of wear on the crosspiece

Often, motorists do not pay attention to insignificant signs that it is time to make repairs, and wait until the problem makes itself known publicly and this is fraught with consequences, especially when it comes to loss of vehicle controllability.

The first signs of wear on the crosspiece appear as:

the presence of noticeable resistance to the steering wheel when rotating at speeds above 80 km/h;
delayed wheel turning and loss of sensitivity (delayed response of wheels and steering shaft);
increased free play angle of the wheels (popularly this symptom is also called “Steering play”);
uneven rotation of the steering wheel, the steering wheel moves with sharp jerks;
obvious grinding or knocking noise that occurs when the steering wheel is rotated; the grinding becomes especially noticeable and obvious on an uneven road.

Most often, motorists turn to a car service center to replace the steering shaft crosspiece mechanism only when the last sign of a malfunction appears, but in vain, because in the event of an emergency, the steering control will not be able to adequately respond to the driver’s efforts, and sometimes, the steering control may even fail, this is already fraught with very big troubles.

Repair of the shaft cross is carried out every 50 - 100 thousand, it is better more often, otherwise it will have to be completely replaced with a new one.

To replace, you will need to purchase a crosspiece - on average 150-300 rubles, some car services claim that for the steering to work correctly, you need the entire steering shaft (4 - 7 thousand rubles), but on most cars it is enough to change only the crosspiece.

Background of the breakdown

About six months ago I felt light, almost imperceptible poking. Never ignore such signs! As I said above, all this can lead to serious problems, and possibly an accident.

I didn't pay attention to this. Apparently there was not enough experience. Then, over time, this all developed into more noticeable clicks. I read it, watched videos on the Internet, and even went to my neighbor for advice. By the way, he helped me with my work. Eventually I realized what the problem was. You also can’t get by with just one article; a friend’s advice can also help in solving the problem.

Self-replacement procedure for the steering shaft crosspiece

The replacement takes place in several stages:

We lift the car off the ground using a lift or by rolling it into a hole, but you can also get by by lifting the front of the car.
We set the steering wheel at a right angle and fix it, and also fix the steering wheel; during replacement, movement of the wheels and steering wheel is not desirable.
To access the steering shaft, remove the left (right) wheel. We go into the salon and unscrew the fastening bolt; after a slight effort, the steering shaft should come off the steering wheel.
Under the car, carefully remove the upper and lower casings, check the amount of dirt on the crosspiece and steering shaft driveshaft; not all cars have them protected by a boot (purchase and installation of such rubber will cost 100-200 rubles).
We find and unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece; you may have to use a WD tool. Once the bolt is removed, the steering shaft should easily come off the steering rack.
Pull the shaft down and pull it out. Often the crosspiece mechanism is rusty and dirty; first of all, you will need to wash it.
For flaring you will need a sprocket of the appropriate diameter; fix the shaft in a vice.
Using a head (presumably a 8-pointer), we knock out the cross first in one direction (remove the bearing cup), and in the other direction (also remove the cup).
Then we take a new crosspiece and insert it in the same order - we start one side first, and then the other, press it in using a vice (but not too tightly, the metal may wrinkle).
We align both cups and roll them with a chisel and hammer.

The final assembly procedure is no different from disassembly - the main thing is to maintain order. So, we have replaced the steering shaft crosspiece; if everything is done correctly, the handling will respond better to your efforts.

Rack adjustment

Before installing the rack and rods back, it is necessary to set the gaps of the gear connection. Please note that it is better to immediately replace the thrust nut with a new one. Set the rack to the middle position, as if the wheels were straight. For adjustment, a special clock-type indicator mechanism is used. We start rotating the gear shaft and measure the indicator readings.

If the value is 0.05 mm, then the adjusting nut should be tightened to the same amount. After the steering rack adjustment is completed, check the ease and uniformity of movement along the entire length of the rack stroke. Provided that everything is done accurately, you should fix the position of the adjusting nut by performing special core punching with a punch. When all the work has been completed, you can begin to reinstall the steering mechanism on the Lada Granta. After the mechanism has been installed back on the car, you should, even before starting to drive with the car stationary, turn the steering wheel, checking the uniformity of rotation. A check that will reveal that there is no knocking can only be done while driving on a rough road.

Steering malfunctions usually occur due to insufficiently frequent preventive inspections. If the owner has missed the appearance of minor leaks in the steering mechanism, loss of integrity of the protective covers, then the likelihood that a knock will soon appear in it is quite high. Therefore, it is important to carry out annual diagnostics.

Removing the steering mechanism of the Lada Granta is necessary in the event of a breakdown of the steering mechanism; as a rule, plastic parts fail (wear out). As a result, the steering loses its “sharpness” of control, and knocking is heard in the steering when driving over uneven surfaces. Removal of the steering mechanism is carried out according to the following instructions.

How do you know when it's time to change the driveshaft?

Signs of its malfunction are noticeable, but have little effect on the quality of movement, which is why many car owners ignore the problem until the last moment, almost to the point of losing control of the car. You should not ignore signs of a malfunction; if at least two appear at once, you need to immediately carry out diagnostics. What are the signs of wear or breakage?

When driving at a speed of more than 80 km/h, the steering wheel resists when turning, making it more difficult to turn.
The steering wheel turns unevenly and jerks when turning, which puts additional stress on the hands.
The steering wheel has become less sensitive, and the turning of the wheels responds to control late.
The appearance of noticeable play (free movement of wheels with stable fixation of the steering wheel).
Vibration of the driveshaft. Check with a tachometer to see if this vibration appears at one speed or at different speeds. Only vibration at different speeds indicates problems with the cardan; if it occurs at different speeds, but at the same frequency, then you need to think about how to change the steering cardan on a grant, because the speed of the cardan was different at that time.
Knocking and grinding noises in the steering wheel, especially when driving on rough roads.

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How to change the steering cardan

It is better to roll the car into a pit (at least raise it in front of the car).
Fix the steering wheel and steering wheel at a right angle. You should also not move or touch the wheels during repairs.
Remove the front wheel, then unscrew the mounting bolt through the interior. If all operations are carried out correctly, the shaft should come off the steering wheel on its own.
Remove both casings (top and bottom), make sure there is a boot on the steering shaft. If it is not there, it is better to install it after repair; the part costs no more than 200 rubles.
Unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece, then the shaft will come off the steering rack on its own.
Pull down and pull out the shaft. Before repairing, it is better to wash it from dirt and rust; it also affects the quality of movement.
Secure the shaft in a vice. When it is secured, take the head and knock out the cross on one side to remove the bearing cup. Repeat the same action from the other end.
Insert a new cross in the same order (one at a time on each side).
Press in a new crosspiece with a vice (do not overpress).
Align the cups and roll them with a hammer and chisel.
Install the new part on the car in reverse order.

Many car owners note when they are looking for where and how to change the steering joint on a Toyota that steering crosspieces from the VAZ-2015 are very suitable for this brand. This greatly simplifies the process of finding parts and reduces the overall cost of repairs.

Tighten the steering rack on the grant. Eliminating the knocking of the steering rack of the Lada Granta

And since many people have some problems when removing the cardan and then installing it back and adjusting the steering wheel, I will describe a few points on how to make this process easier, which may be useful to someone. In fact, there is nothing complicated. From the very beginning, you need to remove the fuse cover, unscrew the two screws securing the EUR control unit and pull it down. Then, having unscrewed and removed all the bolts on the cardan, we begin dismantling from the top of the EUR shank. There are two ways: 1.

Using a more powerful flat-head screwdriver, you need to tighten the eyes where they are tightened with bolts. Then insert a suitable key (in my case, 24 and, using it as a lever, push the first short part along the shank of the lower part of the cardan shaft from the eur shaft in this way

Lada Granta was originally created as an inexpensive car. Actually, that’s why it became one of the most popular cars on the roads. The manufacturer tried to introduce both proven and new elements into the design. But they have their drawbacks. The Lada Granta steering rack can present various surprises during operation. It is useful for the owner of a domestic car to understand the structure of many components.

Why might the driveshaft break?

The most common reason is constant use of the car on uneven roads, driving over potholes and ruts. During such shaking, a large load falls on this moving part.

The second reason may be oil leakage due to a leaking oil seal. Because of the oil, the sealing ring https://podshipnik-mo.ru/koltsa-uplotnitelnyye hardens, and a gap appears between the oil seal and the rod. Or the mirror on the driveshaft connection is broken, and various roughness and burrs appear on the rod. In this case, the splines will have to be changed or sanded (but this is a temporary remedy).

We noticed that when driving on uneven roads (for example, gravel), vibration is strongly transmitted to the steering wheel. It is also possible that a knock may occur, but it is not the steering rack that is rattling. The cause of the rattling may be play in the steering shaft. It is proposed to solve the problem with the help of a simple modification, which was used on VAZ 2108-15 cars.

Knocking and rattling noises appear due to gaps in the mating parts. To eliminate them, insert a rubber cube (dimensions 22x22x22 mm) into the universal joint of the intermediate steering shaft. It is cut out from the rubber bumper of the rear suspension of the “classic”.

To install the rubber part into the steering shaft, you don’t need to remove anything, just crawl under the panel and look for the connection above the brake pedal. To fit the cube into a narrow space, you will need to lubricate it (for example, WD-40) and use a clamp or jack.

For owners of Lada Granta and Kalina models with ESD, there is an alternative to this modification - install a steering driveshaft without knocking (catalog numbers: 11186-3422092-00, 21230-3401085-00). Let us remind you that in some cases the causes of knocking can be eliminated by tightening the steering rack or steering shaft bolt. Have you encountered such a modification? What effect did you feel after installing the rubber cube?

Test before diagnosis: when does the murmur appear?

If it makes annoying noise while driving, find out where and when it happens:

At low or high speed.
On roads with good coverage or uneven areas, for example, when driving through potholes and various bumps.
When turning with the steering wheel turned all the way or near the zero mark.
In a sharp or smooth turn.

When the car is stationary, it is enough to pull the steering wheel, rocking the wheels from side to side. If there are knocks, there is no need to go anywhere. Take a partner so that you have someone to rotate the main control left and right, and you put your hand on all the joints in the “steering”. Now we’ll figure out what exactly to feel.

Quick Guide

The main reason for tapping is the formation of a gap in the joints. In the steering system, there may be knocking on the tips, ball joints of the rods, the rack, the “cardan” in the column, the steering wheel on the shaft, or the auto-folding system in case of an accident. The metallic sound is distinct and can be heard in place when rocking the steering wheel.

It is quite possible to mistake problems in the suspension for problems in the steering, since the initial stages of wear of bearings and supports only make themselves felt when cornering at speed. In the suspension part, the cause of the knock should be sought in the wheel bearings, ball joints and “supports”.

Source

If you hear a noticeable knocking noise when you move the steering wheel left to right: diagnosis

Probable Causes

If an audible knocking sound in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel indicates wear in its constituent parts, then an extraneous clicking sound when the steering wheel rocks requires inspection of other structural elements. As a rule, the problem lies in the vehicle control system.

Statistics show that there is something to knock in the “steering wheel”. Any pairing may come under suspicion:

Gap in the fit between the steering tip and the strut.
Excessive play in the steering rack.
There is a problem with the steering shaft driveshaft.
Free movement of the steering wheel on the shaft.
Gap in steering rod joints.

These parts are present in the design of any car. Knowing the location of all the landings, it remains to identify the defective pair.

For your information. Some old foreign cars have a folding steering column assembly, which breaks under the influence of a critical load that occurs during an accident. He can knock too.

How to identify knocking: expert methods

The classic approach to identifying a faulty unit will be explained in any garage. Its essence is trivial: just ask the assistant to shake the steering wheel and at this time put his hand on the mentioned connections.

Steering rack

However, in some situations this technology loses its relevance. In particular, it will not be possible to identify a defect in the mechanism using this method. To identify a problem in the gear-rack engagement, it is necessary to carry out the following experiment:

If there is power steering (hydraulic booster): a knocking sound appears when the steering wheel is rotated on a car with the engine turned off, but when the engine is running, there is no knocking at the place.
There is no power steering: drive along a road section with a changeable direction - when you swing the steering wheel left to right, a knock is heard, but when turning, the rack does not knock due to the small wear of the working surfaces of the gearing in the extreme positions.

For your information. It is not recommended to tighten a worn rack. One of the owners of Hyundai Solaris performed this procedure and after 10,000-12,000 km the steering wheel began to bite. An autopsy showed that the mechanism was beyond repair.

Emergency system

It is also possible to determine experimentally whether the steering column folding assembly is the cause of the knocking. It is enough to swing the “steering wheel” to the sides, while simultaneously pressing it to the bottom. The sound disappeared - the problem is in the emergency system.

Diagnostics, repair and reassembly

Before determining why there is a knock in the steering, you should completely disassemble the rack and carry out diagnostics for wear, destruction of components and connections. Disassembly is carried out in this order. Secure the steering rack in a vice, having previously installed spacers made of soft metal or other material. Unscrew the nut securing the mechanism crankcase pipe. The crankcase tube is removed. Remove the clamps securing the pipe bushings and remove them.

Unscrew the adjusting nut. Here you need to use a special 24mm wrench, which has external edges for unscrewing. Sequentially remove the rack stop spring, the sealing ring and the rack stop. Remove the crankcase cover. After removing the bearing cage and sealing ring, remove the rack. The second element of the steering mechanism pair - the gear shaft - is dismantled.

Now you can diagnose the condition of the bearings and sealing rings. After thorough cleaning, the wear of the gear sectors and the condition of the surface of the rack and shaft are assessed. After all, this is where the reason lies that causes the knocking that appears. If necessary, select the necessary parts and replace them.

Before reassembly, all critical connections are lubricated with a special compound. Very often, it is the insufficient amount of lubricant that leads to rapid wear of loaded parts, which violates the previously established clearance. Therefore, even a recently installed rack knocks again.

Assembling the steering mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. For dismantled bearings, you should select the required diameter for cutting pipes, which will help to correctly install the bearings in place. The assembled steering mechanism must be adjusted, since the size of the gap can also determine whether a knock will appear after reinstallation.

Non-standard cases

It may not be the suspension or steering parts that are knocking. Shocks and body pecks lead to the movement of units. If they “sit” loosely and there is metal-to-metal contact, clinking cannot be avoided.

Single dull knock when starting off. See rubber-metal engine or gearbox mounts, transmission driveshaft. For example, when starting, the motor may tilt and hit the spar.
Rattling on small bumps and in turns. Listen to see if there is a knocking sound in the steering wheel when braking; if there is, the brake caliper guides are worn out.
Intermittent impact sound, more common when turning at low speeds. Malfunction in the differential of a front-wheel drive vehicle.