Malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing and its replacement

Adjusting the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107

You can correctly tighten the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 as follows:

If play and noise cannot be eliminated in this way, the bearing must be replaced.

The replacement procedure is quite simple. To replace the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing, you will need:

The work is carried out on a lift or after raising the front wheel with a jack.

• lift the car on a lift or “hang” the wheel using a jack;
• Unscrew the wheel mounting bolts;
• remove the wheel;
• unscrew the caliper mounting bolts;

Tips for replacing a wheel bearing

Timely elimination of play is a guarantee of long bearing service.

Welcome, friends, to the DIY car repair website. While driving your car, noise occurs in the front part of the suspension, a hum, sometimes even a whistle, this indicates that the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing most likely needs to be replaced.

In the front hub of the VAZ 2107 there is a pair of roller bearings, one internal, and the other, of course, external.

How to check a wheel bearing

• Jack up the car so that the wheel rotates freely.
• We place the stand under the threshold of the car.
• When the wheel rocks in different planes, a knocking noise occurs; it could be a bearing, a ball joint, or possibly a steering linkage, so let’s check further.
• We turn the wheel by hand; when noise appears, it will immediately become clear to you that the bearing needs to be replaced.

In the same way as described above, we check the other side of your vehicle, since most likely the hub bearings have worn out there too.

Reasons for failure of hub parts

The most unreliable part that is subject to wear and breakage is the wheel bearing. This is the only moving part, the wear resistance of which is ensured by high quality material and lubrication. Thanks to this, in normal operation it lasts up to 100 thousand kilometers or more.

Given the state of our roads, this service life may be sharply reduced. This happens for the following reasons:

• Impacts due to the wheel hitting potholes at high speed. The resulting dynamic loads primarily affect the bearings and only then the remaining suspension parts.
• Loss or contamination of lubricant. If the boots are damaged, the lubricant is washed out from the inside of the bearing, and the part becomes clogged with dirt and requires urgent replacement.
• Incorrect tightening when replacing or servicing. An over-tightened bearing will overheat and fail. A weak tightening torque causes play and intense wear of the part.
• Errors when pressing the bearing during replacement. Distortions and damage greatly reduce the service life of the part. Therefore, you should trust the replacement only to experienced locksmiths with a good reputation.

Breakage (deformation) of the hub itself can only occur as a result of strong impacts on the edges of road potholes or an accident.

To extend the life of the unit, you need to monitor the condition of the anthers and drive the car carefully, avoiding potholes and slowing down in front of them.

Instructions for replacing the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing

Replacing the front wheel bearings, as recommended by the manufacturer, should only be done in pairs.

We jack up the car, be sure to place some kind of stand under the body to avoid an accident, unscrew and remove the wheel.

Next, you need to remove the caliper; to do this, you need to unpin the two bolts on which it is attached and unscrew them. To prevent the caliper from dangling and getting in the way, tie it to the lever.

Then you need to remove the cap that covers the hub nut. We unscrew the nut (on the left side there is a left-hand thread, on the right side there is a right-hand thread), remove the lock washer and pull out the outer bearing.

Engine

2nd - tighten the bolts 90°

3rd - finally tighten the bolts 90°

Assembly of the front hub of a VAZ 2107 car

Now that the old clips have been knocked out, you need to rinse the inside of the hub and you can start pressing in the new clips.

You can press in the clips either in a vice or hammer them in using a special mandrel or a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter; this is not at all difficult.

Then we fill the hub with new grease, lubricate the inner bearing and insert it, then install the split spacer ring and press in the new oil seal.

Next, we fasten the brake disc and install the hub on the steering knuckle axle, insert a new outer bearing, lock washer, tighten the nut, install the caliper and wheel. In general, we do everything in reverse order.

If there are no special tools, we tighten the bearing as follows: tighten the nut until it stops (pull within reasonable limits) and release it 2/3 of a turn and rotate the wheel. We check the backlash (thermal gap).

The wheel should rotate easily, and the play should be barely noticeable when the wheel rocks. There is absolutely no way to overtighten, it’s better to just miss it. We cotter the nut and put on a decorative cap.

At this point the repair is considered complete. Have a good trip and no breakdowns.

The wheel bearing is an important part that is present in every car. The domestic car VAZ-2107 is also equipped with both front and rear wheel bearings. Failure of the front wheel bearing can lead to the most unpredictable consequences: from rapid tire wear to problems with the braking system. There is one way to avoid such consequences - timely diagnostics of the car, adjustment and replacement of worn-out wheel bearings. What is replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ-2107, we will find out in this material.

Lada 2106 Akkerman71 › Logbook › Front suspension 2. Fixed hubs

Hi all. Today there will be a little more letters) there is a little free time, you can press buttons). For the upcoming complete overhaul of the front suspension, I am collecting the necessary parts. One of the upgrades that the “patient” will undergo is non-adjustable hubs with one double-row bearing,

instead of two classic bearings, which from time to time need adjustment, without which wheel play appears and, as a result, control suffers, the wheels “walk” a little to the sides because of this, you have to steer the steering wheel, and they also absorb all these unnecessary beats ball joints and steering rods; excess loads damage them faster. There is a lot of information on the Internet about this and about installing non-adjustable bearings from a front-wheel drive family using adapter bushings on classic knuckles. The most common option is to install a 2108 rear hub with bearing dimensions of 60x30. Many people install and drive, but personally I don’t like this option. The bearing is not designed for heavy loads, since the main load comes from the engine and from the turning front wheels, so on the back of the 08 they made them smaller in size, so I didn’t consider this option at all. This whole thing is serious and I want to be completely calm and confident in the durability and, most importantly, the safety of all components and assemblies)). In second place is the installation of IZH Oda front hubs; a large front bearing 2108 with dimensions 64x37 is already installed in them. This option is already acceptable, in my opinion. The bearing is designed for installation “under the motor” and will run for a long time, which you won’t have to worry about. IzhOda hubs are installed either through adapter bushings, which is much simpler, or on modified classic knuckles, which is much more difficult to perform, since you still need to find a very good turner who will take on this and will not spoil anything the first time)) and with this they are just big problems)) I also refused this option, firstly, IzhOda is already a big rarity in our area, it takes a long time to look for hubs from them and used ones are used, this is not a new part, production will be present in any case. Therefore, I chose for myself the most reinforced third option with the largest possible size bearing and custom-made metal hubs. Bearing dimensions 72x37

installed on Moskvich 2141 and Renault Logan, compared to the front 2108 it is larger and looks preferable. The matter remained with the manufacture of hubs. From all the large factories with good machines, in our city (as elsewhere) only memories remain), everything was closed a long time ago, the equipment was cut into scrap metal, so I spent a long time looking for who and where to make it. As they say, “he who searches for a long time will always find”) I found someone who makes such hubs, even with adapter bushings,

source

Bearing Failure Determination

Some recommendations will help you make sure that you need to replace the wheel bearing on your VAZ-2107:

• The easiest way to determine the need to replace the hub unit is to grab the front wheel and wiggle it in different planes. If you feel the presence of play, then it’s time for a more detailed diagnosis and most likely replacing the bearings.
• The front wheels of the car should be hung on a jack, while being sure to take precautions: pull the handbrake, install shoes and additional stands under the car. Grasp the top and bottom of the front wheel with your hands and then make movements. It is important to wobble the wheel, and not the car as a whole. Thus, you can accurately determine whether the product in question needs to be replaced.
• Another way to determine the need for replacement is to listen for humming, knocking, and grinding noises in the wheel as it rotates.

Diagnostics

To determine whether the VAZ 2107 front wheel bearing needs to be replaced or not, you need to:

• jack up the car;
• place a stop on the lower lever and lower the vehicle (this is done in order to prevent rocking in the silent blocks);
• It is better to grab the wheel from above and below and rock it.

In this case, there should be no backlash. After spinning the wheel, repeat the operation. Spin the wheel; no noise should appear when it rotates. If there is no play, but noise appears, then the bearings definitely need to be changed.

Adjustment

After replacing the front wheel bearings of a VAZ 2107 during maintenance or the appearance of noise, adjustment begins as during diagnostics by “hanging” the wheel. Further:

1. tighten the nut until it stops, but not too much;
2. by rotating the wheel and releasing the nut, we look for a position in which its rotation will be sufficiently free, and there will be no backlash;
3. lock the nut.

However, it must be added that if after tightening the nut the play disappears but there is no noise, then the bearings should also be changed.

How to replace bearings

As in the case of diagnostics, we begin the repair by jacking up the car and removing the wheel. Further:

• unscrew the caliper and hang it so that it does not interfere;

• remove the nut cover on the hub;

• unscrew the nut with a 27 wrench;
• remove the washer;
• remove the hub with the attached brake disc;

• remove the small bearing separator;
• remove the oil seal;
• remove the large bearing separator;
• remove the clips with a puller or knock them out with a hammer and chisel;

• remove old grease from the hub and cap.

We perform assembly in reverse order.

• press in the bearing races;
• lubricate and install the inner bearing separator;
• install the oil seal;
• put the hub in place;
• lubricate the outer bearing separator and install it in place;
• install the pressure washer;
• tighten the nut;
• screw the caliper into place.

At this point, the replacement of the front wheel bearing of the VAZ 2107 is completed and all that remains is to adjust the tightening of the nut, this is done as I already described above.

What are axle shafts, why are they needed and how are they designed?

In rear-wheel drive cars, which the “seven” actually belongs to, the rear wheels are driving. It is they, rotating, that make the car move. The torque is transmitted to them from the gearbox through the drive (cardan) shaft, gearbox and axle shafts. There are only two axle shafts: one for each rear wheel. Their role is to transmit torque from the corresponding gear of the gearbox to the wheel rim.

Axle shaft design

The axle shaft is an all-metal shaft made of steel. At one end there is a flange for attaching the wheel disk, and at the other there are splines for engagement with the gearbox gear. If we consider the axle shaft assembly, then in addition to the shaft, its design also includes:

• oil deflector;
• sealing gasket;
• oil seal (cuff);
• bearing.
  In addition to the shaft, the design of the axle shaft also includes an oil deflector, a gasket, an oil seal and a bearing.

Each of the axle shafts is installed in the corresponding (left or right) rear axle housing. An oil deflector with a gasket and an oil seal are used to prevent lubricant from leaking out of the casing. The bearing is designed to ensure uniform rotation of the axle shaft and distribute shock loads coming from the wheel to the rear axle of the vehicle.

1 — oil deflector; 2 - gasket; 3 - seal; 4 - oil seal; 5 - axle shaft; 6 - casing; 7 — bearing mounting plate; 8 — brake shield; 9 — bearing; 10 — fixing sleeve