How much does it cost to digest a spar on a VAZ 2114

Preparation for work

Lanzheron photo in a VAZ 2114 car
Considering the long-term use of the VAZ 21099 sedan, the condition of the power frame of the car body may not be the best. Therefore, if you need to replace the rear side member of a VAZ 21099, you need to purchase all the necessary spare parts.

Replacing the rear beam

It is equally important to decide how the replacement will be carried out. If you do everything in a garage, you will need a lift and the necessary equipment

If you are replacing the rear side member yourself, you need to perform a number of preparatory work before lifting the car on the lift.

1. Seats, carpets and interior floor coverings must be removed. This is done to comply with fire safety and maintain the quality of materials.
2. Considering the welding work, it is advisable to dismantle (or at least protect with special material) the fuel tank with gasoline residues. And after the car is on the lift, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Further operations are carried out in the following sequence:

• drive the car onto a lift, remove the wheels from the hubs;
• release the rear beam with suspension elements, otherwise it will be impossible to carry out work;
• clean the rear spar to determine the mounting points.

It should be borne in mind that the spar is usually secured by spot welding, so it is important to locate all such places. For better cleaning, use a wire brush

We clean the welding areas using an angle grinder.

Repair inserts

Repair inserts are widely used for local body repairs, when there is no need to replace the entire part. Replacing a separate part of a part is the most economical and takes less time and labor. The website of our online store presents repair items for VAZ, GAZ, Gazelle, OKA and others. Different manufacturers provide a wide range of selection of these repair elements.

Price*

– price for registered users

Recommendations for replacing the rear side members of the VAZ-2114

Trunk volume of VAZ 2114 Lada VAZ 2114

When replacing a LP, many craftsmen cut off the old body element with a gas cutter, but it is better to drill out the part. When installing a new spar, it is very important to find the control points correctly and not to disturb the geometry of the body, otherwise the work will have to be redone and problems will arise. It is recommended to grab the spar at three or four points; before thoroughly welding the part, it is recommended to try on the rear beam - the fasteners must match the studs. Before installing the body element, the seat must be thoroughly cleaned of rust and well primed; if the metal is rusty, new plates must be welded.

You cannot weld with a continuous seam, this will weaken the metal of the body.

Replacing rear side members is not an easy job, if you are not confident in your abilities, you should not take on it, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Replacing rear side members on a Nine in a car service center

Replacing rear LPs is a labor-intensive and quite complex job that requires care, metalworking skills, and the ability to use welding. Not every car owner undertakes to carry out such repairs on their own, so quite often the owners of front-wheel drive VAZs turn to professional technicians. The cost of replacing the rear spar 2108-09-099 can vary significantly, it depends on various factors:

• the location of the auto repair company, usually in the metropolitan region and large cities, repairs are more expensive;
• car service level;
• general technical condition of the car.

If the car body is heavily rusted, not all craftsmen agree to repair such a vehicle. I would also like to note that many auto repair shops fundamentally refuse to hire VAZ-produced cars, preferring to engage in more profitable repairs of foreign cars.

Rear spar repair kit 2108-09

The correct tightening torque for the cylinder head on a VAZ-2114

The rear spar repair insert allows you to replace only part of the body part, which simplifies the repair and makes it cheaper. The repair kit is a reinforcing element located on a bend; it is believed that this particular place on the body is subject to intense rusting.

In practice, it is not always possible to use a repair insert, since both the rear beam fastening in the side member (the main problem of 2109) and the jack often rot. The average cost of a repair insert in auto stores is 700-800 rubles, catalog numbers are 2108-5101372 and 2108-5101373 (right and left sides).

Replacing the rear right side member 2109

The condition of the rear spar is determined by external inspection; if the body element has traces of severe corrosion and is thoroughly rotten, it must be replaced; in many cases its repair is impractical. Even before performing work, it is necessary to inspect the car body itself; often the iron on the 2109 rots to such an extent that there is practically nothing to weld to.

To carry out repair work you will need:

• welding machine;
• electric drill with drills;
• screwdrivers;
• a set of keys;
• hammer;
• core;
• chisel;
• cleaning wheels.

You must first buy the floor spar itself (LP), the average retail price of the body element in auto stores is from 1800 to 2500 rubles, catalog number is 2108-5101372. This spare part is suitable for model 2108-09-13-14, with minimal modifications it can be installed on VAZ cars 21099 and 2115. Since when replacing a spar you basically have to work under the car, you need to think about how to make it easy to get to below. There are several options here:

• use a car lift;
• carry out work in the inspection pit, hanging the rear part of the body on “goats” or other stands;
• turn the car over on its side, using a reliable support.

Before you start drilling out the old spar, you need to partially disassemble the car and remove:

• rear seats;
• gas tank;
• rear floor trim;
• rugs;
• rear beam (you will have to disconnect the handbrake cables and brake hoses).

After disassembly, you can begin to directly remove the rear LP; to do this, you need to find the attachment points, drill them at the spot welding points using a drill clamped into the drill chuck. After dismantling the body part, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the metal under the spar and prime it, remove the shipping primer from the new part (it can be removed very effectively and quickly using sandblasting). In order for the right side member to fit exactly in place, you should use measurements (there are control points for attaching units), there must be a certain distance between the elements of the front and rear suspension (between the fastening of the rear beam and the front wishbone).

After determining the control points, the spar is tacked by welding in several places, the correct installation is checked, then the part is finally welded to the seat. The final stage of repair consists of the following steps:

• cleaning welding scale with a grinding wheel;
• degreasing the metal surface;
• application of primer and anti-corrosion coating.

Very important conditions when performing welding are an intermittent seam, a maximum length of 4-5 mm. A continuous weld is unacceptable; with such welding, the body loses its elasticity and becomes very rigid. The left rear lip on the “Eight” or “Nine” changes in exactly the same way as the body element on the right side, the procedure for performing the work and the installation principle are the same.

Replacement of rear spar 2114. Many letters

Greetings to everyone, in general, who remembers - a move is coming... So that's what I'm talking about... It was in April, I was driving one evening, and I began to notice that with every bump or junction on the road, there was a solid blow to the BODY from the rear right, I think what kind of garbage, I went out and looked several times a night, I didn’t find anything visually (after all, the car is low, the wheels are in the arches), a few days later I’m driving on business, it’s spring, the roads are all in a terrible state of course, puddles, potholes, well... In general, I’m driving through the territory of the production zone, and of course the car rocks quite well as it moves, the wheels hang completely above the ground from being skewed (there is such a road there).

In general, I drove onto a normal road and the car began to steer to the left, and very strongly (for you to understand, you had to hold the steering wheel about 45 degrees to the right to drive straight). My wheel alignment was not perfect anyway, so I just sinned because it all went wrong during the next pit, although I didn’t fly anywhere at speed, and I looked at the front wheels, they both looked in different directions a little, in general I set I got the car at home and thought that tomorrow I would go to the wheel alignment and while I was falling asleep, I remembered that my front left strut was knocking, and it wouldn’t be bad to do it right away and then go to the wheel alignment so as not to pay 2 times (and it costs 1,500 rubles at a VAZ).

The next day I found the contact of the only high-quality rack repairman, called him, made an agreement, he said that as soon as I removed it, call him right away and he would come and pick it up, the repair time would take 15-20 minutes, well, in general, after the repair he would He brought it back to the garage for me (what a service!). This procedure would also cost me 1,500 rubles.

The next day comes, early morning (8:00), I was already standing on the street while my freshly assembled engine was warming up, I walked around the car in a circle, admiring it and my gaze fell on the rear right wheel (no photo), it went back relative to the arch, I think this what the fuck?! 0_o. In short, I arrived at the garage, parked the car, I looked at the rear wheels and they were both looking slightly to the right, I immediately understood why the car was driving very much to the left...

I climbed into the hole and saw this:

The platform with studs under the beam bracket was almost completely torn off

Well, I immediately realized that my repairs would take a long time and it wouldn’t be possible to do it with just one rack.

Well, everything is as usual for me:

— Search for a new spar — Search for a welding machine

But due to the fact that I live in Mukhosransk, naturally, nowhere and no one had a spar in my city (the same as the rear arch that year, which was brought to me from Kirov, which is 1200 km from me), I begin to look for friends who are where now is located outside of Mukhosransk, I found a friend who was vacationing in Voronezh, told him the situation, explained what I needed, sent pictures, in general, he bought the entire spar (150 cm)

Rem. Unfortunately, there was no insert, I had to take a whole one

I waited for 2 weeks somewhere for him with my side member, the car was parked, time passed, and then the very day came when he arrived, well, I immediately started work.

You won’t be able to digest the spar without removing the tank, keep that in mind. I sawed out the old rot.

Hero of the occasion

And he began to adjust and, after adjustment, prepare a new spar, drilled holes around the perimeter for welding, coated it with anti-corrosive primer bought at a construction store for a pittance, and began welding.

I didn’t need the whole spar since the second half on the body was alive. Well, for anti-corrosion of the interior.

I also made an insert for the threshold amplifier, I just didn’t take a photo

Adjusted the new spar to its location

I also pulled out the threshold in that place because it was jammed, I noticed this only when I removed the plastic trim from the threshold. I pulled it out in a garage in a Spartan way)) I drilled a hole, stuck a thick wire through and tied it around a pipe, pushed the pipe (very long) between the threshold and the wire, one end rested on the workbench, and on the other end (which stuck out just from the jammed threshold) I was jumping