A car engine starter is an electromechanical device, the purpose of which is to transmit torque from the armature of the electric motor to the flywheel of the power unit, which brings the engine to a running state.
Due to the increased load and frequency of operation, this part has a short service life, which quite soon leads to the need to replace the starter with a new one.
The approach of a part to the final stage of operation is characterized by the appearance of minor faults, which, if neglected, will negatively affect the functioning of the engine and can cause a car breakdown on the highway. The most common causes of starter failure are the following:
- The electric motor rotates, but the engine does not start - first you need to check the condition of the terminals and the battery charge level. Also, the cause of the malfunction may be low adhesion of the Bendix gear to the flywheel, which indicates grinding of the gear teeth or the flywheel itself. To correct the situation, the parts will have to be replaced with new ones;
- The efficiency of the starter decreases as the motor resistance increases - the cause may be wear on the armature brushes or problems in the operation of the pull-out relay. Also, as in the first case, it would be a good idea to check the condition of the wiring for melting or oxidation of the main cables or terminals;
- The electric motor rotates the crankshaft too slowly - there may be a low level of electrolyte inside the battery case or a mismatch in the viscosity level of the oil inside the engine. If the problem occurs in winter, you just need to warm up the engine with a hairdryer so that the technical fluid “defrosts”;
- During start-up, the engine experiences a creaking sound - extraneous sounds that occur when the engine is ignited are the cause of incomplete charging of the battery (voltage less than 12.6V) or the result of damage to the armature brushes or head teeth;
- The start and relay do not show signs of life when trying to start the engine - there may be a short circuit in the engine electrical system, a break in the insulating winding of the housing, or failure of the electromagnetic relay;
- The relay makes noise, but the engine does not start - there is a problem in the power unit of the unit or a break in the electrical circuit; wear on the armature brushes is also possible.
Note! Before disassembling and dismantling the car's electric motor, it is recommended to check the condition of the terminals on the starter and battery - cases of problematic engine starting due to oxidized terminals or a low battery charge level are not so rare.
How to remove the starter on Lifan Solano
A car engine starter is an electromechanical device, the purpose of which is to transmit torque from the armature of the electric motor to the flywheel of the power unit, which brings the engine to a running state.
Due to the increased load and frequency of operation, this part has a short service life, which quite soon leads to the need to replace the starter with a new one.
The approach of a part to the final stage of operation is characterized by the appearance of minor faults, which, if neglected, will negatively affect the functioning of the engine and can cause a car breakdown on the highway. The most common causes of starter failure are the following:
- The electric motor rotates, but the engine does not start - first you need to check the condition of the terminals and the battery charge level. Also, the cause of the malfunction may be low adhesion of the Bendix gear to the flywheel, which indicates grinding of the gear teeth or the flywheel itself. To correct the situation, the parts will have to be replaced with new ones;
- The efficiency of the starter decreases as the motor resistance increases - the cause may be wear on the armature brushes or problems in the operation of the pull-out relay. Also, as in the first case, it would be a good idea to check the condition of the wiring for melting or oxidation of the main cables or terminals;
- The electric motor rotates the crankshaft too slowly - there may be a low level of electrolyte inside the battery case or a mismatch in the viscosity level of the oil inside the engine. If the problem occurs in winter, you just need to warm up the engine with a hairdryer so that the technical fluid “defrosts”;
- During start-up, the engine experiences a creaking sound - extraneous sounds that occur when the engine is ignited are the cause of incomplete charging of the battery (voltage less than 12.6V) or the result of damage to the armature brushes or head teeth;
- The start and relay do not show signs of life when trying to start the engine - there may be a short circuit in the engine electrical system, a break in the insulating winding of the housing, or failure of the electromagnetic relay;
- The relay makes noise, but the engine does not start - there is a problem in the power unit of the unit or a break in the electrical circuit; wear on the armature brushes is also possible.
Note! Before disassembling and dismantling the car’s electric motor, it is recommended to check the condition of the terminals on the starter and battery - cases of problematic engine starting due to oxidized terminals or a low battery charge level are not so rare
Popular starter models
The principle of operation of the electric motor on the Lifan Solano is as follows: the exhaust relay, when receiving a current charge, forces the Bendix gears to come into contact with the flywheel teeth and turn the part, which leads to the direct start of the engine.
The ignition process occurs when the electric motor armature begins to rotate due to the receipt of a charge of electricity, which in turn transmits torque to the bendix.
Manufacturer country | Device part number | Product power, kW/h | Approximate cost, rub. |
China (original) | LF481Q1-3708100A | 1.4 | 3700 |
China (original) | LF481Q13708100A | 1.4 | 3700 |
China (original) | LF479Q33708130A | 1.6 | 3990 |
China (analogue) | lf479q33701180a | 1.4 | 4100 |
China (analogue) | lf479q3-3701180a | 1.4 | 4250 |
China (analogue) | 81Q3-3701111 | 1.4 | 3600 |
China (analogue) | 81Q3-3704311 | 1.4 | 3750 |
Despite the budget price of the brand, there is a huge amount of counterfeit products on the automotive components market, which not only have a short service life, but can also cause short-term wear in the car.
To prevent the possibility of purchasing a low-quality part, it is necessary to check the compatibility of the spare part before purchasing - to do this, compare the part number with the VIN number of the vehicle on the official website of the manufacturer. If the database does not contain information about a given manufacturer, it is recommended not to purchase a starter.
How to dismantle an electric motor for repair: step-by-step instructions for beginners
The electric starter on the Lifan Solano is located under the engine on the driver’s side, which makes some adjustments to the procedure for dismantling the part - for successful removal it is necessary:
- Disconnect all terminals from the battery to avoid short circuit;
- Remove the plastic engine cover, if included;
- Disconnect all terminals from the starter;
- Unscrew a pair of fixing bolts located at the bottom and top of the electric motor housing - the Solano starter is attached to the engine compartment.
During dismantling and further repair of the starter, it is not allowed to drop or hit the part - even slight mechanical pressure can damage the electric mechanisms of the starter, which will make the part completely unusable. Also, during subsequent installation of the electric motor, it is necessary to observe the polarity of the axes during installation and ensure correct engagement of the teeth of the flywheel and the Bendix gear - otherwise the system will not work efficiently.
At the end of the procedures, the part can be carefully removed and disassembled for repair.
It is important to remember that you should not completely disassemble the starter - usually repairs are carried out by disassembling the housing and disconnecting solid blocks of electrical components; disassembling the stator or rotor without the appropriate equipment is not recommended. Remember, homemade starter repairs can lead to a short circuit in the vehicle’s electrical systems and significantly reduce the service life of the power unit.
Lifan Solano won't start, what's the reason?
Let's start with malfunctions when the starter does not turn. Everything here is simpler than steamed turnips.
If you don’t hear the activation of the solenoid relay, check whether + is supplied to the black-yellow wire when you turn on the ignition key. It is better to check at the contact point on the starter solenoid relay. Getting to it is not easy, but it is possible. The starter for the Lifan Solano is located on the far side of the engine, under the intake manifold.
Check all fuses; see the owner's manual for the fuses. First of all, look at the two 30-amp fuses in the interior mounting block. In Solano, to see the mounting block, you need to lie with your head on the driver's mat and look up.
These fuses provide ignition. When they burn out, not only the starter does not work, so if everything works, then the reason is clearly not in them.
If the solenoid relay is activated but the starter does not turn. The brushes could simply be worn down; this can be solved by removing the starter and replacing the brush assembly. You should check for positive voltage on the red wire going to the starter from the battery. This wire goes directly from the battery to the starter, but through the contacts on the mounting block under the hood!
These very contacts sometimes burn out, remove the cover from the mounting block and check for traces of melted wires.
Another reason for a non-functioning starter is lack of ground on the engine. The negative wire is screwed to the front of the gearbox; be sure to check the reliability of its fastening and the quality of the contact. It is better to unscrew rusted contacts, clean them and tighten them again.
The starter turns but the engine does not start
This also happens, here the troubleshooting goes in a slightly different direction. First of all, of course, sparking and fuel supply are checked. Vlifan Solano the operation of the fuel pump can be blocked by the standard security system. Listen carefully, can you hear the fuel pump running when you turn on the ignition?
Typical faults
The main malfunction is when the starter does not rotate.
- In this case, start by checking the solenoid relay. It is necessary to determine whether “+” is supplied to the black-yellow wire when the ignition is activated. It is better to do this at the junction of the contact on the traction relay. However, getting here is not easy, since the starter is located on the far side of the engine, under the intake manifold. It is recommended to use a hydraulic lift.
- Next, check the fuses. First of all, inspect the two 30-amp elements located in the interior mounting block under the dashboard. They control the ignition, so if they burn out, they affect not only the operation of the starter. There is no separate relay for the starter on a Chinese car, although the instructions indicate that there should be one.
If the relay receives “+” and the fuses are fine, look for the cause of the malfunction in the wiring, contacts or ignition switch.
The next problem is that the solenoid relay is activated, but the starter does not rotate.
- The brushes are worn out and need to be removed and replaced.
- There is no “+” on the red wire coming from the battery. This cable runs through the mounting block located in the engine compartment. First of all, check here to see if there are any burnt contacts or melting.
- There is no weight on the engine. This wire should be located in the front of the gearbox - here it is screwed. Check the quality of the connection and the presence of oxides.
Another typical malfunction is that the starter rotates, but does not start the engine.
- Check the fuel system and sparking. Determine whether the standard alarm is blocking the operation of the fuel pump. Disable the pump blocker to diagnose the operation of the starter without it. To do this, it is enough to remove the heater control system, under which the BCM unit is located. The latter is held on by two M8 bolts. There are three connectors on it - the bottom one is white. This plug has a blue-green wire that is responsible for supplying “+” to the fuel pump relay. Trim it so that you can join it later. Now the pump will start working without control from the security system, which will eliminate glitches and blocking.
- Check to see if the timing belt is broken. The sound of the starter turning should change.
The starter turns but the engine does not start
This also happens, here the troubleshooting goes in a slightly different direction. First of all, of course, sparking and fuel supply are checked. In Lifan Solano, the operation of the fuel pump can be blocked by the standard security system. Listen carefully, can you hear the fuel pump running when you turn on the ignition?
If not, then try arming and disarming the car again using the standard key. If that doesn’t help, then as a last resort you can disable the fuel pump lock. To do this, remove the heater control unit. To do this on the Lifan Solano you need to remove the wood-look trim and unscrew the two bolts. Everything else is attached with latches.
Below it is the BCM (Body Control Module). For convenience, it is better to remove it; it is secured with two “8” key bolts. There are three connectors connected to the block - one long at the top and two small at the bottom. We need a white connector at the bottom.
We find a violet-green wire in this connector, this is an enabling plus for the operation of the fuel pump relay. Feel free to cut this wire close to the connector. The cut wire that goes into the harness must be stripped and connected to the blue-green wire in the same connector. The blue-green wire is the wire on which positive voltage appears when the ignition is turned on.
That's it, now the fuel pump will work regardless of the quirks and glitches of the security system. Of course, the function of blocking it will be lost if you try to start the car with the alarm not turned off.
Checking for spark and injector operation
If there is no spark, the engine will also not start. You can check the claim very simply, but you need an assistant. Remove the rubber tip of the high-voltage wire from the spark plug and pull it out slightly. That is, you need to raise the tip above the spark plug by 5-7 mm, no more, otherwise, if the spark has nowhere to go, the ignition module or control transistors in the ECU may burn out.
Lift the tip and ask an assistant to turn the starter with the ignition key. If there is a spark, you will hear clear clicks in the spark plug well. Check all four cylinders in this way. If there is no spark, then the reason may be either in the high-voltage wires or in the ignition module.
At the injectors you can only check the constantly incoming plus 12V. on the blue-red wire. When the ignition is on, there should be +12V on-board voltage on this wire for each injector. If it is not there, then look at the fuses again.
Constant plus is supplied to the injectors when the ignition is turned on, through fuse FS04 and the main relay. The fuse and relay are located in the mounting block under the hood. Their names are signed on the bottom of the lid, in English - main.
Transmission
How to remove the Lifan Solano clutch forkReplace the Lifan Solano air filterReplacing the Lifan Solano speed sensorInstalling the Lifan Solano clutch discInstalling the Lifan Solano gearboxRepairing the Lifan Solano driveshaft crosspieceChange the oil in the Lifan Solano gearboxChange the Lifan Solano oil filterInstalling the Lifan Solano external grenade with your own handsRemoving the Lifan Solano clutch pedalReplacement drive Lifan speedometer SolanoReplace the boot of the Lifan Solano inner CV joint with your own handsReplace the boot on the Lifan Solano grenadeHow to replace the boot of the outer CV joint of Lifan SolanoReplace the gear shift lever of Lifan SolanoHow to replace the Lifan Solano cabin filter with your own handsReplace the rear axle oil seal Lifan SolanoReplace the Lifan Solano gearbox oil seal with your own handsRepairing the Lifan Solano gearbox oil sealReplacing the Lifan axle shaft oil seal SolanoChange the Lifan Solano drive sealRepair the Lifan Solano gearbox seal with your own handsChange the Lifan Solano fuel filter with your own handsChange the Lifan Solano clutch cableRepair the Lifan Solano automatic transmission filter with your own handsInstalling the Lifan Solano engine filterChange the Lifan Solano air conditioning filterRemove the Lifan Solano clutch cylinder
Lifan Solano starter: where is it located, how to remove, replacement
Lifan Solano / 620. Cause of error P0130
P0130 - Oxygen sensor error
Trouble code P0130 appears in the engine management system when the oxygen sensor voltage is outside the specified range. This error code can be caused by an open or short circuit in the oxygen sensor circuit, wear of the sensor, as well as due to the mixture of oxygen and fuel being too lean or rich, fuel leakage, depressurization of the exhaust system, etc.
Causes of error (code) P0130:
The error occurs when the oxygen sensor circuit voltage is low (bank 1, sensor 1). To eliminate this error, you need to change the first lambda probe, provided that there are no problems with the exhaust system.
Diagnostics when error code P0130 occurs:
The first step is to check the wires that supply the first lambda probe (installed before the catalyst);
If power is supplied through the wires, carefully inspect the oxygen sensor connector for corrosion, damage, carbon deposits, contamination and other defects;
Next, it is recommended to check the voltage between the lambda probe signal wire and ground. To do this, you need to connect the voltmeter probes to them. If the oxygen sensor is working properly, its voltage will be around 0.45 Volts (if the voltmeter shows a different number, it is recommended to check the voltage value for your specific car model, as it may differ);
It is also recommended to use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of the oxygen sensor heater (two white wires). The resistance value will vary from 2 to 10 ohms, depending on the car model. The exact value can be found in the documentation for the sensor;
If the problem is not related to the wiring and oxygen sensor, you need to check the mass air flow sensor and the tightness of the exhaust manifold; the gaskets may need to be replaced. Be sure to diagnose the presence of suction in the circuit after the flow meter.
Repair when error code P0130 occurs:
1) Check the lambda probe connection connector. 2) Check the sensor with a multitester (measure the heater resistance and voltage at the signal pin). 3) Check the lambda probe wiring for short or open. 4) Replace the sensor with a known working one.
After replacing the sensor, you need to reset the error and let the engine run in different modes. You can reset the error using the elm327 usb adapter.
Broken timing belt
If the timing belt breaks, the car will not start either. But you will immediately feel that the starter is turning “something wrong.” The flywheel rotates without load, so the starter turns very easily.
Here are some reasons why the engine cannot start, search and you will find,
8.02.17
The car, left near the academic building, stopped showing signs of ignition after two hours of parking. The key turns - the electrics turn on - turns further - the dashboard turns on - turns further, you hear the sound of a pump, a click from under the dashboard and that’s it. The starter doesn't even try to turn, as if it doesn't exist. I was stuck like that for two hours, at 18:00. At 20:00 a tow truck was called (out of impotence) and the car was taken to the home parking lot. The first thing we did was install the battery from my father’s car - the Lifan started on the first try. There was no limit to the joy, because while the car was freezing, I was reading the VK group and 70% of the problems were caused by the retractor. Naively, I immediately thought that it had nothing to do with it. At night, my factory battery was charged at home.
9.02.17
But in the morning again click-click and silence. As a result, in the evening a new Mutla battery was purchased (measurements in the store showed that the factory one was depleted by more than half), and the car started up again on the first try. The night has passed.
10.02.17
In the morning it started the sixth time, or rather, a crack. Even more precisely, the starter worked and began to turn only on the sixth attempt, and immediately successfully. Now it starts at half a turn.
UPDATED 02/12/17
The temperature dropped to -15, -20 degrees, after a day in the cold it started from the fifth click. In general, there is a tendency that the ability to start is returning, but it cannot be left for a long time. And one more thing - if the retractor is not working, the dashboard does not work, but for me everything is ok. So it's not retractable? What remains is the starter, its contacts and ground. (and whitefish)
Diagnostics:
The electricians said that the ground is in order, the current leakage is within normal limits, you need to look at the retractor, its connector chip and contacts (they didn’t fit, and I myself don’t know where exactly) Therefore, according to the
decision:
if I’m lucky, I’ll just clean the contacts, if If I'm unlucky, I end up having to replace the retractor. If the battery was to blame, it was only partially at fault.
Selecting a battery by car make
Electric batteries are used on motorcycles or vehicles. The battery energy powers the starter, engine control unit and lighting equipment. The main characteristics of the products are:
- capacity;
- voltage value;
- and starting current.
All car manufacturers use different classes of batteries on their units. They differ not only in the above characteristics, but also in different operating resources. During operation, batteries may lose their characteristics, and therefore they must be changed periodically.
Features of selection
To make the right choice of car battery, you need to know the technical factors of the energy storage device.
It is important to take into account every detail, including the possibility of cold scrolling, which is important for residents of the Russian Federation in winter. All these parameters are set by the car manufacturer
Only a professional can know how to correctly select the battery according to its parameters.
Our advantages
Our battery store presents its services to you, where you can find energy storage devices for every taste. All products that we present have an official guarantee from the manufacturer and are original. The assortment includes products from the best domestic and foreign brands.
On the website you can select a battery for your car online. A convenient search system will give you the opportunity to find out the full characteristics of the offered product. You can also buy a battery from us, matching your car in different price ranges. If necessary, you can always ask the operator for advice.
When choosing batteries for a car, the selection by car brand is made taking into account how much the car’s electrical system consumes. The battery series depends on this. Manufacturers usually offer at least three battery options for a specific car model. They differ in characteristics and resource.
Some models can last 2 years, while others can last 5 years or more. To make the correct choice of battery for a car on our website, you just need to enter:
- His model.
- Car brand.
- Modification and generation.
The battery selection for the car is done automatically. To do this, you just need to click a couple of times. The following will be a list of batteries with information about each model.
Why is it important to choose a battery according to the make of your car?
If the selection of the battery according to the make of the car is not made correctly, this can lead to many problems. For example, the operation of the machine’s electrical system will be disrupted. There may also simply not be enough current to start the engine and crank the starter, especially when the temperature outside is sub-zero.
Correct selection of batteries for the car guarantees that the car’s equipment will work normally after installing the battery.
Original devices and analogues
Lifan Solano is equipped with 3 options of standard starters:
- LF481Q1-3708100A at 1.4 kW;
- LF481Q3708100A at 1.4 kW;
- LF479Q33708130A at 1.6 kW.
The price of devices varies between 3.5-4 thousand rubles.
Analogues also made in China are also suitable:
- LF479Q33701180A;
- LF479Q3-3701180A;
- 81Q3-3701111;
- 81Q3-3704311.
All of them produce power up to 1.4 kW.
Despite the budget nature of the Lifan Solano, there are many fake spare parts on the market, including the starter. Such a device not only serves little purpose, but also causes a short circuit and even a fire in the car.
This is interesting: Minimum thickness of brake pads: what is acceptable
Price:
Type of work | Job | Spare parts |
Replacement | from 1200 rub. | from 3500 rub. |
Diagnostics | 800 rub. | No |
Cleaning | from 200 rub. | No |
Testing at the stand | 300 rub. | No |
Bendix | from 400 rub. | from 250 rub. |
Brush unit | from 200 rub. | from 300 rub. |
Starter repair | from 500 rub. | from 400 rub. |
Solenoid relay | from 200 rub. | from 500 rub. |
Bushings | from 400 rub. | from 450 rub. |
Anchor | from 350 rub. | from 700 rub. |
Gearbox | from 450 rub. | from 500 rub. |
Where are Lifan Solano starters made in St. Petersburg:
Kupchino
- 245-34-84
Citizen
- 603-55-05
Bolsheviks
-
WhatAapp/Viber: 8-911-766-42-33
ATTENTION. We do not repair units removed from the vehicle.
We do our own diagnostics, make a diagnosis and provide a guarantee.
When to do it:
- the car will not start, the starter shows no signs of life; - when trying to start the car, a noise is heard, the car will not start; - after starting the engine, the relay does not turn off;
Warranty for replacement - 360 days, for repair - 180 days.
If necessary, we can help with the evacuation of the car to our service stations.
Addresses in St. Petersburg: Service station on Bolshevikov: st. Voroshilova, house 7, from 10 to 18, t., Sat, Sun - closed. Service station on Grazhdansky: st. Uchitelskaya, building 23, from 9.30 to 21.00, t. 8 (812) 603-55-05, seven days a week. Service station on Kupchino: st. Dimitrova, building 1, from 10 to 20.00, t., seven days a week.
If the starting device fails, information becomes relevant about where it is located and how to remove the starter on your own. The main problems are the lower location of this unit (difficult to reach with the hood open) and the presence of the electrical part (the terminals will have to be disconnected). The presence of a pit or a manual lift greatly simplifies the task, as it provides access from below.
Lifan Solano fuse box
Lifan Solano cars reviewed
Fuse and relay box in the engine compartment. Location: number 12 in the image.
To access the elements of the block, press the lock and remove the cover.
Fuse and relay layout diagram.
Explanation:
№ | Current (A) | Color | Purpose |
3 | 10 | Red | Reserve |
4 | 15 | Blue | Same |
5 | 20 | Yellow | » |
6 | 25 | White | » |
13 | 40 | Blue | Electric blower fan |
14 | ?0 | Yellow | Socket for additional equipment |
15 | 60 | Yellow | Cigarette lighter fuse. |
16 | — | — | Not used |
17 | 30 | ||
18 | 7,5 | Grey | |
19 | “ | — | I use it to store tweezers |
20 | “ | — | Not used |
21 | — | — | Same |
22 | — | — | » |
23 | — | — | » |
24 | « | “ | » |
25 | 30 | Pink | Hydroelectronic ABS module |
26 | 30 | Pink | Same |
27 | 25 | White | Main relay |
28 | 10 | Red | Air conditioning compressor |
29 | 10 | Red | Engine ECU |
30 | 25 | White | High speed electric fans for engine cooling and air conditioning systems |
31 | 25 | White | Low speed electric fan cooling system and air conditioning system |
32 | 5 | reviled | Fan speed controller |
33 | 15 | Blue | Low beam lamp |
34 | 15 | Blue | High beam lamp |
35 | 15 | Blue | Front fog lights |
RELAY | |||
R1 | 30 | — | Front fog lights |
R2 | 70 | Engine cooling fan | |
R7 | 30 : | High fan speed | |
R8 | 30 , | Low fan speed | |
R9 | 30 | Electric fan speed regulator | |
R10 | 30 | Overspeed indicator | |
R11 | 30 | — | High beam headlights |
R12 | 30 | dipped headlights | |
R36 | 100 | — | Main relay |
R37 | 30 | Air conditioning compressor | |
R38 | 30 | — | Main relay |
The starter turns but the engine does not start
This also happens, here the troubleshooting goes in a slightly different direction. First of all, of course, sparking and fuel supply are checked. In Lifan Solano, the operation of the fuel pump can be blocked by the standard security system. Listen carefully, can you hear the fuel pump running when you turn on the ignition?
If not, then try arming and disarming the car again using the standard key. If that doesn’t help, then as a last resort you can disable the fuel pump lock. To do this, remove the heater control unit. To do this on the Lifan Solano you need to remove the wood-look trim and unscrew the two bolts. Everything else is attached with latches.
Below it is the BCM (Body Control Module). For convenience, it is better to remove it; it is secured with two “8” key bolts. There are three connectors connected to the block - one long at the top and two small at the bottom. We need a white connector at the bottom.
We find a violet-green wire in this connector, this is an enabling plus for the operation of the fuel pump relay. Feel free to cut this wire close to the connector. The cut wire that goes into the harness must be stripped and connected to the blue-green wire in the same connector. The blue-green wire is the wire on which positive voltage appears when the ignition is turned on.
That's it, now the fuel pump will work regardless of the quirks and glitches of the security system. Of course, the function of blocking it will be lost if you try to start the car with the alarm not turned off.
Cold start
The starter starts when the battery has sufficient charge, so sometimes this can cause problems starting the engine. The situation gets worse if the oil crystallizes in the cold. These factors together lead to the battery completely losing its charge the next time you try to start the engine, so you can’t do it without outside help.
In this case, experienced car enthusiasts recommend using a proven method - recharging the battery from a charged and normally functioning one.
This is done using special wires, which in everyday life are called “crocodiles”. First, connect the wires for lighting to the donor's car. The positive wire is connected to the positive terminal of the battery, then the negative wire is connected to the negative terminal. The headlights of the donor car are turned on in order to increase the load on the generator and equalize the voltage with the “lighted car”. Next, the positive wire with the other end is connected to the positive terminal of the “lighted car,” that is, Lifan Solano, and the negative wire is connected to the “body” of the car.” This connection procedure will avoid any risk to the batteries. Make sure that the wires do not touch each other when connecting, otherwise a short circuit will occur.
How to remove the starter on Lifan Solano video
Good day to all! We continue to keep a medical history log. =)
The starter was stuck from the first day of purchase. Specifically, the problem was poor contact of the solenoid relay - it clicks, but does not turn. To start the engine, I had to pull the ignition switch several times. At the same time, sometimes the car started the first time even in winter at -30. The longer I drove it, the more iterations I had to make at launch. Sometimes it even seemed that the engine would not work, but after a couple more movements of the key everything returned to normal. There were a couple of times when I spat and got into my wife’s car.
All this time I did not give up trying to get to the starter. But it was hampered by a very inconvenient location - between the engine and the engine shield, under the intake manifold.
Not long ago, thunder struck and I couldn’t start the engine and leave work. The next day I returned to the office parking lot with the starter, which I took for analysis, and began to remove it.
First, I removed the battery and the platform underneath it, as well as the air filter bellows.
Secondly, on the right side I disconnected the starter wires - there are two of them. The first is the plus from the battery; it is secured with a nut, which makes it difficult to remove, since it is very inconvenient to operate the wrench under the intake manifold. The second wire from the ignition switch is simply plugged into the starter.
After which you can remove the starter itself. It is secured with two bolts. In this case, the gearbox cable fastening bracket prevents you from getting to the upper bolt, so first remove it.
The lower bolt cannot be visually inspected; it will have to be unscrewed on the ball. After which the starter can be easily removed from its seat.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. After the replacement, the starter clicked once again, but then started without problems. Good luck to everyone on the roads and may your cars start without problems!
First, we will make a diagnosis
, without removal. If the diagnostics show a problem in the starter, we will remove it and put it on a diagnostic stand.
Replacing the Lifan Solano starter is done only if repairs are not possible or would cost more than replacing with a new one.
After taking the readings, the technician will disassemble and troubleshoot
. After determining the cost, a decision is made on what is best to do: repair or replace.
How to remove the rear bumper?
If the damage occurred on the rear of the vehicle, you will need to replace the rear bumper of the Lifan Solano. In this case, the work algorithm will consist of the following stages:
- Prepare the workplace, as well as tools and materials, as when performing work on changing the front bumper. Drive the car into the garage; for convenience, you can slightly lift the car with a jack.
- Remove the rear trim by carefully unscrewing the three retaining fasteners. Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the eight fixing clips. To prevent scratches and other damage, it is recommended to wrap the screwdriver with tape or tape.
- Open the luggage compartment and remove the carpet. Then, using a screwdriver, unscrew the locking hooks from the left and right sides of the trunk lining.
- Remove the combination lights on the right and left sides, which are attached with three nuts. Disconnect the electrical wires from them and carefully move them to the side.
- Unscrew the fastening elements of the mudguards and then remove them. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws from the frame, find the fastenings on the right and left, and unscrew all the bolts on the bottom surface.
- Disconnect the brackets from the sides, and open the two latches at the bottom. Gently rock the bumper to remove it, and finally unscrew the mounting brackets.
- Place a new element in place of the damaged frame and reassemble the car in exactly the reverse order.
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How to remove the starter on Lifan Solano video
Good day to all! We continue to keep a medical history log. =)
The starter was stuck from the first day of purchase. Specifically, the problem was poor contact of the solenoid relay - it clicks, but does not turn. To start the engine, I had to pull the ignition switch several times. At the same time, sometimes the car started the first time even in winter at -30. The longer I drove it, the more iterations I had to make at launch. Sometimes it even seemed that the engine would not work, but after a couple more movements of the key everything returned to normal. There were a couple of times when I spat and got into my wife’s car.
All this time I did not give up trying to get to the starter. But it was hampered by a very inconvenient location - between the engine and the engine shield, under the intake manifold.
Not long ago, thunder struck and I couldn’t start the engine and leave work. The next day I returned to the office parking lot with the starter, which I took for analysis, and began to remove it.
First, I removed the battery and the platform underneath it, as well as the air filter bellows.
Secondly, on the right side I disconnected the starter wires - there are two of them. The first is the plus from the battery; it is secured with a nut, which makes it difficult to remove, since it is very inconvenient to operate the wrench under the intake manifold. The second wire from the ignition switch is simply plugged into the starter.
After which you can remove the starter itself. It is secured with two bolts. In this case, the gearbox cable fastening bracket prevents you from getting to the upper bolt, so first remove it.
Dismantling
The starter on a Chinese car is located inconveniently - between the engine and the engine shield, under the intake manifold. You have to dismantle the interfering components and use a device consisting of several tools.
Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- remove the battery along with the platform under it;
- disassemble the air filter corrugation;
- disconnect the wires going to the starter;
- pull out the gearbox cable mounting bracket;
- remove both mounting bolts.
The positive wire coming from the battery is secured with a nut. Unscrewing this fastening is extremely inconvenient, since you have to use the wrench under the intake manifold. A homemade device will help here - an extension cord, a ratchet and a head of the required size assembled together. The second wire from the ignition switch simply has a removable plug at the end - just pull it out.
Removing the starter
There are several options for removing the starter from the engine. The choice mainly depends on whether the car owner has a garage with a pit and free time to replace the starter on his own.
It is best to organize access to this unit from both sides by removing the lower engine protection, and partially dismantling the air cooling system, removing the battery. This is possible in a service station on a lift or in a pit garage. However, even in its absence, repairing the starter is quite possible, but with increased labor costs and work time.
On a pit or lift
Before removing the starter yourself, you need to drive the car into a pit to provide access to the engine protection mounting bolts from below. This part is made of thick-walled sheet steel and is attached at 4 points; problems with unscrewing usually do not arise, since it is removed very often when servicing the car. If necessary, threaded parts are pre-treated with WD-40 lubricant.
Attention: In some cases, work is hindered by the cover protecting the muffler, which will also have to be removed. On foreign cars, under the engine protection there may be a duplicate plate made of polymer material, which also needs to be dismantled
Replacing the starter begins with dismantling this engine starting unit, however, with the protection removed, it is convenient to unscrew only the bottom bolt. The upper fasteners are easier to unscrew from the top. To do this, depending on the layout of the units and components of the car under the hood, you will have to remove:
- terminals from the battery (in any case);
- pull the battery out;
- dismantle the air filter housing if necessary;
- Unscrew the bracket on which the cooling pipe is attached.
After which, work continues in the pit:
- from the starter it is necessary to disconnect all the wires coming to it from the battery, so unscrew the nut that secures the “+” cable, then the wire that goes to the control contacts of the retractor relay;
- Unscrew the lower nut securing the starter using a 13mm wrench.
Work continues from above, from the side of the car hood:
- unscrew two or one remaining upper bolt with a 13 key;
- the starter is moved by the body towards the passenger seat so that the bendix comes out of its seat near the flywheel;
- this knot is pulled out through the top.
Depending on the type of internal combustion engine, the operations for dismantling the starter may vary:
- C-type engine - classic dismantling according to the above scheme;
- F-type engine - first, the starter mounting bolts are dismantled with your own hands, then the protection is removed, the rear engine support is disconnected;
- V8 engine - if there are 16 valves, the protection is removed, the starter mounting bolts are unscrewed, the right front wheel and the reinforcement of the exhaust system manifold are dismantled, and the rear engine mount is removed.
Service station employees are familiar with such nuances, so it is recommended that the starter be replaced by specialists.
In the absence of a garage, a pit, or in case of sudden failure, the electric starter can be removed through the hood. Features of the process are:
- providing access to the mounting bolts by analogy with the method described above (removing the battery and part of the air cooling system)
- the lower bolts, the terminal on the solenoid relay and the nut of the “+” terminal are located by touch
- First, the lower fastener is unscrewed, then the middle one, since the centering sleeve is located on it
Subsequently, the work time is slightly reduced due to the car owner gaining some experience. If necessary, a jack or hand-made homemade lifts can be used, for example, as in the bottom photo. This is relevant if you need to remove the front wheel on the passenger side.
About motors
The LF481Q3 engine is manufactured in China; according to reviews from car owners, it is a reliable, easy-to-maintain engine. The engine displacement is 1587 cm3, which is quite enough for safe driving in the city and on busy highways.
It has an in-line arrangement of four cylinders. The operation of each cylinder is ensured by two valves in the intake tract and two valves in the exhaust gas outlet. The valve is driven by two camshafts, which are installed in the cylinder head.
The motor can develop a power of 78 kW. The combustion chamber is wedge-shaped to ensure efficient combustion of the fuel mixture.
There are no hydraulic compensators on this engine; the thermal clearances are adjusted by selecting and installing cup-shaped pushers between the valve and the camshaft protrusion. The timing mechanism of this motor is driven by a toothed belt. The machine can also be equipped with an LFB479Q engine, which has a displacement of 1800 cm 3 and develops a power of 128 hp. With.
Do Lifan valves bend?
This question arises for many car owners who have heard about problems when the belt breaks on other car models. I would immediately like to reassure them that this does not happen on this power unit. This engine is based on the Japanese Toyota 4A-EF, purchased under license. Its designers eliminated the possibility of damage to the valves when the timing belt breaks. This positive quality was adopted by engineers from China. If we talk about engines with a displacement of 1800 cm3, then according to experts, damage to the valves is possible in rare cases. This mainly happens when the engine is running at high speeds.