Lada Priora starter: where is it located, how to remove it, replacement. Replacing a starter on a Prior

A faulty starter relay is often the reason why the car refuses to start when the key is turned in the ignition. Perhaps these are not the most pleasant moments in the life of any driver. Therefore, in such cases, it is important to know how to check the starter solenoid relay, and how to start the car if it does not work.

We will tell you about the purpose of the starter solenoid relay and its structure, how you can check it and perform simple repairs yourself.

At the end of this article, watch the video that shows how to start your car if the starter solenoid relay is not working.

Also on our website you can find information about other common causes of starter malfunction with step-by-step instructions on what to do if the starter does not work.

When, when you turn the key in the ignition switch, you can clearly hear that the starter is idling, then the cause of this malfunction may be the solenoid relay. But before you start diagnosing it, you should know the purpose of this electrical unit.

Starter replacement

Many owners, at the first malfunction of the starter, change the entire unit, without understanding the causes of the breakdown itself. But in most cases, the reasons for failure are as follows:

Failure of the solenoid relay - purchased and replaced separately
Brush wear
Burning dimes on the retractor relay

Each of the problems listed above can be solved much cheaper than buying a new starter for a Priora. Therefore, first you should contact a specialist who will tell you exactly what the reason is and answer whether it can be repaired or not!

If repair is no longer possible, which is extremely rare, then a replacement must be made. To do this you will need the following tool:

13 mm head
extension
ratchet or wrench

Fuse power

All fuses are color coded depending on the power for which their fuse links are designed:

The fuses for the cooling system fan (F1), heated rear window (F2), and the interior heater motor (F9) are designed for a current of 25 A;
fusible elements of the high beam headlight fuses (F3, F4), sound signal (F5), hazard lights (F8), 15th terminal of ABS (F16), fog lights (F17, F18) protect circuits designed for a rated current of up to 10 A ;
7.5 A fuses protect the circuits of low beam lamps (F6, F7), instrument panel, interior lighting, brake lamps (all F10) and rear fog lamp (F21);
side lights (F14, F15), immobilizer (F20) – 5 A fuses;
wiper motor (F11) – 20 A fuse element;
heated seats (F19) – protected by a 15 A fuse;
the most powerful fuse is 30 A - protection of electrical circuits (F31 or F27).

Replacing fuses of a higher rating with a smaller one, as well as the reverse replacement, is not allowed. If a fuse protecting the light signal or active safety circuits of the vehicle blows, it is allowed to replace it with a similar one removed from the socket of the circuit responsible for comfort or others that do not affect the safety of the vehicle when it is moving. If possible, the protection of electronic circuits must be restored in accordance with the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer.

The mounting box installed in the interior of the Lada Priora contains not only fuses, but also electromagnetic relays, the switching circuit of which provides for connecting a high-power load. By using such relays, the manufacturer has achieved a reduction in the current load on the switch contacts. This prevents burning of the contact pairs installed in them. Therefore, if a certain circuit malfunctions, it is necessary to check not only the integrity of the fuse, but also the serviceability of the relay installed in the Priora fuse box and responsible for the device switching circuit.

Required Tools

In order to remove or install the starter on a Priora, you will need the tools from the table below.

Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

Name	Note
Spanner	"at 13", "at 15"
open-end wrench	"at 13", "at 15"
Pliers	Can be replaced with pliers
Screwdriver	With a thin flat blade
Silicone Grease	If you plan to remove the air filter
Head	"at 13"
Vorotok	With extension and ratchet
Penetrating lubricant	For example, WD-40
Rags and wire brush	To clean dirt

Replacing the starter on a Lada Priora can be carried out without access from the bottom. If you don’t want to remove the air filter and the wires going to the sensors, then you can dismantle and install the unit from underneath. In this case, you will need an inspection hole, overpass or lift to access the place where the starter is located.

Assignment of contacts of the instrument cluster block

1 To the electric power steering2 To the hazard warning lamp3 To the emergency oil pressure sensor4 To the parking brake switch5 To the immobilizer control unit6 To the airbag control unit7 To the exterior lighting switch8 To the turn signal switch (starboard side)

9 To the turn signal switch (left side)10 To the fuel injection system control unit11 To the front passenger airbag deactivation sensor12 To the seat belt sensor13 To the control unit of the electronic brake force distributor14 To the “RESET” button on the steering column switch (-)

15 To the brake fluid level sensor16 To the anti-lock brake system control sensor17 To the headlight high beam switch18 To the instrument cluster lighting switch19 Housing20 To terminal “30” of the battery21 To terminal “15” of the ignition switch22 To the fuel consumption sensor23 To the mode key for switching the functions of the trip computer along the ring forward and convert minutes (-)

24 To the mode key for switching the trip computer functions in a circle back and setting the clock (-)25 To the outside temperature sensor (-)26 To the outside temperature sensor ( )27 To the fuel level sensor28 To the speed sensor29 To the coolant temperature sensor30 Low-voltage tachometer input31 Diagnostics when production of instrument cluster32 To terminal “L” of the generator relay regulator

Starter replacement

Many owners, at the first malfunction of the starter, change the entire unit, without understanding the causes of the breakdown itself. But in most cases, the reasons for failure are as follows:

Failure of the solenoid relay - purchased and replaced separately
Brush wear
Burning dimes on the retractor relay

If repair is no longer possible, which is extremely rare, then a replacement must be made. To do this you will need the following tool:

13 mm head
extension
ratchet or wrench

The procedure for replacing the starter on a Priora with your own hands

This repair is very simple, so it won’t take more than 25-20 minutes. The ideal option is to work either in the inspection hole, or to remove the air filter housing from the cushions, after which very good access to the starter opens.

First of all, we disconnect the “-” terminal from the car’s battery, after which we disconnect all the wires from the starter, one of which is screwed on with a nut.

Then you need to unscrew the three starter mounting nuts, one on top:

And it’s more convenient to unscrew two from the bottom, as clearly shown in the photo below.

When they are unscrewed, you can easily remove it, since there are no more fasteners left.

Installation of a new one during a complete replacement occurs in the reverse order, and no difficulties will arise when performing this repair.

It is important to keep in mind that the starters on the Priora were installed with both three fasteners and two (old and new). Therefore, before buying a new one, make sure which one was on your car.

The price of a new 2170 can range from 3,500 to 4,000 rubles, although you can find Chinese options a little cheaper, but of relatively dubious quality. The most reliable and problem-free are KZATE factory production, which can easily cover over 200,000 km of a vehicle without repairs.

Priora starter relay where is the photo located

If the starter does not work when the ignition key is turned to position “II,” there may be a malfunction of both the starter itself and its activation circuit. To check, turn off the ignition and disconnect the wire block from the terminal of the starter traction relay windings.

Using a screwdriver, we bridge the terminal of the traction relay and the tip of the wire connected to the “positive” terminal of the battery. If the crankshaft rotates, then the starter is working, and the cause of the malfunction is a violation in its activation circuit. Otherwise, the starter or its traction relay is faulty. If it is not possible to eliminate the malfunction in the activation circuit of a working starter, then, if necessary, in this way (by turning on the ignition and closing the terminals), you can start the engine and drive to the repair site. A malfunction in the starter switching circuit can be caused by damage to: the starter relay, the power circuit or relay control circuit, the ignition switch contact group. To troubleshoot the starter circuit...

...in the car interior we remove the starter relay and fuses from the mounting block. To check the starter relay, install a known-good relay type 902.3747-11 in its place. To do this, you can use the adjacent heated rear window relay. If the starter turns on with the newly installed relay, then the starter relay has failed and must be replaced. If not, check the power circuit and starter relay control circuit. To check the power circuit, remove the starter relay from the mounting block.

We insert a jumper (piece of wire) into the sockets of the power contacts of the relay “30” and “87”. We turn the key in the ignition switch to position “II” - “starter”. If the starter turns on, the power circuit is working, if not, then we check it with a tester...

...is “+12 V” supplied to socket “30” of the starter relay when the ignition key is in position “II”. In this case, the second (“negative”) tester probe can be connected to the head of the instrument panel mounting screw. If voltage is supplied to socket “30”, use a tester to check the integrity of the circuit from socket “87” of the starter relay to the tip of the starter traction relay control wire. If voltage is not supplied to socket “30,” we check the circuit from terminal “50” of the ignition switch to socket “30” of the relay. If the circuit is in good condition, it is necessary to replace the ignition switch contact group. If the starter power circuit is working properly, check the starter relay control circuit. To do this, insert the tester probe into socket “86” of the starter relay, connect the second probe to ground. With the ignition on, check...

...is “+12 V” supplied from the main relay of the engine management system to socket “86” of the starter relay. Then we insert the tester probes into the relay sockets “85” and “86” and check...

...is there ground in socket "85" of the relay... ...connected to terminal "50" of the controller. Otherwise, we check the integrity of the starter relay control circuits: from the main relay of the control system and output “50” of the controller - respectively to sockets “86” and “85” of the starter relay.

Relay and fuse blocks on a LADA Priora car

Where is the ignition relay located in a VAZ-2114 car?

The VAZ Priora passenger car, regardless of the type of engine installed, is equipped with several junction boxes. They are located under the hood and inside the car. The use of several boxes made it possible to separate circuits with high and low currents. In addition, separate small-sized mounting blocks were installed, introduced as the configuration expanded.

Main power fuse block

The vehicle's power circuits are protected by inserts installed on the positive terminal of the battery. The block is designed to protect circuits with maximum currents. To gain access to the fuses, you need to remove the plastic cover; this can be done without the help of tools.

Block diagram and its location in the car

The removal of the most powerful circuits on the Lada Priora into a separate unit located close to the battery ensured maximum protection of the car's electrical system from overloads.

The location and designation of the inserts is indicated in the photo. Depending on the year of manufacture and installed equipment, it is possible to install fuses of different ratings.

Priora power insert block

Explanation of fuse designations

Purpose and rating of the main block inserts.

The given fuse diagram for the Lada Priora is relevant for cars without an anti-lock brake system. The introduction of a hydroelectronic unit on the Priora-2 series car led to a change in the purpose of the inserts.

Purpose of fuses on the battery for Priora cars with ABS (starting from the one closest to the terminal):

F1 - ECM protection (30 A);
F2 - power steering (50 A);
F3 - generator circuits (60 A);
F4 - similar to F3;
F5 - power supply to the ABS unit (40 A);
F6 - similar to F5, but rated at 30 A.

Mounting block: relays and fuses in the passenger compartment

The unit includes fuses, several relays, and tweezers designed to simplify the procedure for replacing burnt out inserts. The content of the device depends on the vehicle configuration.

Block diagram and its location in the car

The unit is located in the plastic frame of the dashboard at the bottom of the driver's side. The outside of the box is closed with a removable cover installed around the steering column and secured with three locks located along the lower edge. To remove the cover, you need to turn the latches 90 degrees and remove the element from the latches by pulling it towards you.

The oval marks the location of the block installation

On cars, fuse ratings may differ depending on the year of manufacture of the car and the configuration. To determine the value of the fuse link, you should use the operating instructions for the Lada Priora.

When repairing fuses, it is necessary to take into account that the instructions for the Lada Priora car change several times a year. It is not recommended to use a manual from another car.

The “norm” option with the additional installation of an air conditioner has differences in the Priora’s fuse circuit. Elements that protect the device are placed in a separate engine compartment, discussed below. The mounting housing itself has not undergone any changes.

Block version “norm” with air conditioning

With the start of production of the modernized Priora-2, the contents of the body changed somewhat. In the interior units of cars, only one space for a relay and two cells for fuses are empty.

Block on Priora-2

Explanation of fuses and relays

Explanation of fuses in the “norm” version.

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Description of the Priorov starter

Before we talk about how to repair a starter, let's get acquainted with the basic description of the mechanism. Let's start with the purpose and location.

Purpose and location

An electric starter is a unit used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is necessary to start the engine. In fact, this mechanism is an electric DC motor equipped with a mechanical drive. The principle of operation of the device is to close the retractor and retainer coils, as well as move the core, which helps push out the bendix. As a result, the Bendix engages with the flywheel of the power unit, and under the influence of the anchor, this flywheel begins to spin. Accordingly, this leads to the engine starting. In Lada Priora cars, the starter unit is located on the gearbox, under the housing of the engine air filter element.

Which starter is better to install on Priora?

Today you can find many models of starters on sale from various manufacturers, but they are all divided into geared and gearless. Both one and the second type have both their advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of the gearless version is reliability and the ability to repair in case of breakdown, which is due to its fairly simple design. As for the disadvantages, such mechanisms are characterized by high voltage consumption and heavy weight.

Geared devices began to be used relatively recently; the addition of a gearbox to the design made it possible to improve the technical characteristics of the unit as a whole. The main advantage is considered to be higher reliability of engine starting, in particular at low temperatures. This advantage is achieved as a result of increased torque. The electric motor itself is smaller in size, but the rotation speed of the device is higher, and accordingly, less current is required to start the motor. In the production of geared devices, fewer expensive materials are used; accordingly, their cost is an order of magnitude lower than that of gearless ones.

As for directly choosing a starter, in practice geared devices are more reliable and fail much less frequently than gearless ones. But in this case, you need to remember that under no circumstances should you allow the starter mechanism to operate while the power unit is running. This is because the rotation frequency of the armature will be several times higher; accordingly, its conductors can come out of the grooves and touch the stationary components of the device, thus destroying its structure (video author - CompsMaster).

Basic faults

The starter has several basic faults that occur quite often.

Battery;
Solenoid relay;
Brushes;
Bendix;
Rotor and stator windings;

If the starter does not rotate or clicks appear when you turn the ignition key, then the battery is most likely discharged. If the battery is charged, you should check the condition of the marks on it. Poor contact or oxide on the stamps will interfere with starting the car, since the starter requires a large current to rotate the engine, and weakening the contact of the stamps or their oxidation will increase the resistance, which will make it impossible to start the internal combustion engine.

battery

Retractor

If, when you turn the key, the starter rotates but does not start the engine, then the culprit is most likely the solenoid relay. The main culprit for relay failure is a break in its winding.

Brushes

Brushes are the most common starter element that fails. If they wear out, starting the engine is impossible, since they do not provide contact with the rotor commutator. When the brushes are worn down to 4 mm, they must be replaced.

Bendix

The Bendix is a type of overrunning clutch that engages the gears with the flywheel. Its failure is a mechanical failure of the starter. It is impossible to repair it, just replace it with a new one.

Windings

The winding fails due to increased currents generated when the engine starts in cold weather or when the bendix jams. The wire wound on laminated steel simply cannot withstand such current surges and breaks. This can be solved by replacing the rotor or stator, and best of all the starter.

Why do fuses melt in a car?

Let's look at why fuses burn in a car - the most common typical reasons.

Cigarette lighter

The cigarette lighter fuse often fails. In most cases, it is not related to smoking. The cigarette lighter often contains power connectors for additional equipment (radar detectors, navigators, other auto gadgets), a compressor, chargers for mobile equipment, splitters and tees of dubious quality.

In some cases, simultaneous connection of several gadgets can lead to exceeding the maximum current in the power circuit of the cigarette lighter connector.

Such situations often arise when using an advertised additional electric interior heater powered from the cigarette lighter connector.

Washer

The failure of this fuse is associated with possible freezing of water in the tank and washer system pipes at negative and slightly positive temperatures. The mobility of the electric pump drive is impaired, as a result of which the current increases and the fuse blows. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to promptly replace the water with non-freezing liquid and clean the entire system of water.

Dvornikov

It fails if the wipers freeze to the glass or the gearbox jams. Therefore, before starting to drive in the morning in the cold season, it is necessary to check the brushes for freezing to the glass.

Heated glass and mirrors

It may burn out due to a short circuit in the electrical wiring. The weakest wiring points are in the corrugated hoses of the front doors, the trunk door, and under the driver's sill trim.

Stoves

A fuse rated at 30 Amps is usually responsible for the stove. If the heater electric motor wears out, especially the bearings and bushings, the current in the electric drive circuit increases significantly. Timely maintenance of the stove fan helps to avoid such situations.

Lighting systems

They often burn out if the power is set, non-standard lamps are installed, especially xenon lamps with an ignition unit, the current consumption of which is much higher. When increasing the rating, you should simultaneously “strengthen” the electrical wiring of the lamps by laying wires of a larger cross-section.

Engine cooling systems

They fail when the radiator fan current consumption increases for the following reasons:

foreign objects entering the area of rotation of the fan blades;
wear of fan motors;
production of engine lubrication.

Engine control unit

Their burnout leads to failure to start the engine. For this reason, the driver must know where the fuses serving the engine control unit are located. Almost half of all malfunctions associated with failure to start engines are determined by their burnout.

Electric power steering

Electric power steering systems are increasingly being used in automobiles. The electric drive of the electric amplifier consumes a large current; under increased loads, the fuses often fail.

Electric parking brakes

Electric parking brakes on some car models (for example, VW PASSAT B6) are a headache for many car owners. The electric parking brakes are located in an “uncomfortable” place near the wheels.

This contributes to mechanical destruction of the housing, moisture and dirt getting inside, as a result, jamming of the engine, and blown fuses along the power circuits.

ABS systems

As a result of pump wear, the current increases and the ABS fuse blows. This leads to the inoperability of the anti-lock brake system, which is especially necessary when the road surface is in poor condition.

Central locking, power windows

The central locking drives and power windows often jam, resulting in blown fuses. Also problematic is the short circuit of the wiring in the corrugated hose of the door wiring.

Replacement

Work on removing and installing the starter can be carried out without a higher education as a mechanic. Using the step-by-step instructions below, anyone who has ever held a key in their hands can cope with the task.

Necessary tool

Phillips and flat head screwdriver
Ratchet, extension and socket for “13mm” and “15mm”
Open-end wrench for “10mm” and “13mm”
Penetrating lubricant (WD-40)
And the desire to repair your own car with your own hands.

Step-by-step replacement instructions

Work can be carried out both from the inspection hole and from above. We will consider the option of doing the work from above, as it is simpler and more convenient. And not everyone has an inspection hole.

First of all, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and remove the air filter housing along with the mass air flow sensor.

Then, on the solenoid relay, use a 13mm open-end wrench to unscrew the power wire and remove the “mother” chip from the relay (marked with red arrows in the picture).

Using a ratchet with a 13mm socket and an extension, unscrew the two starter mounting nuts. Below and above.

Next, we remove the starter from the engine compartment and inspect it.

We install it in the reverse order and check its functionality by test running the car.

Replacement from under the bottom of the car is similar to the instructions outlined above, but only to carry out work from an inspection hole or overpass it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection.

Replacing the Priora starter, main faults

The car starter starts the engine. The Priora will not start without his participation. Without it, starting a movement is simply impossible. Sometimes the Lada Priora does not start because the fuse has blown, or the starter relay has malfunctioned; it is marked K3. Sometimes it clicks but doesn't turn. The reasons are in the details.

The starter on a Priora consists of the following parts: bendex, retractor relay, armature and others - for a complete list of how many parts the starter of a Priora car contains, see the article below. It is advisable for car owners to know where this mechanism is located on a Lada Priora car - it is located immediately under the air filter.

The price of the part is a starter for a Priora engine (16 valves): from 2750 to 4500 rubles. When a breakdown occurs, the device on the Priora stops turning.

Standard starter and analogues - article number and price

Unfortunately, if the mechanism does not work, the problem can only be solved by replacing it. Neither installing new parts under the body, nor any cleaning will save the situation. The standard starter for a Priora with 16 valves goes under catalog number 2111.3708010-01, its cost is about 4,000 rubles. As analogues we can consider:

"Baker." Article 5702370800010, costs 3,700 rubles;
"Starvolt." Article lst0190, price - 3,200 rubles;
Valeo. Article 438285, costs from 3,700 rubles;
For automatic transmission, article number 219002370801000, costs from 3,900 rubles;
"BATE". Article 51323708000, costs from 2,750 rubles;
Gearbox – 51213708000bate, costs from 2950 rubles;
"Kzate." Article 5702370800, costs from 3,300 rubles;
Pramo (Eltra). Article TS12E901, price – 3,800 rubles;
Fenox gearbox. Article 2110-3708010, price – 4,500 rubles.

Lada Priora starter: device and principle of operation

As mentioned earlier, this part can be installed on the Priora of two types: geared and gearless. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the starter, note that it is located under the engine, on the right - closer to the space under the air filter.

To ensure that the starter unit does not wear out so quickly, it has a special mechanism that disengages the gear from the crankshaft flywheel - the Priora starter retractor relay. If it were not there, the service life of the unit would be greatly reduced, or repairs would be required.

Geared

This mechanism is small in size. It turns out this way because the gearbox allows you to increase or decrease the torque. The planetary gearbox itself in the car in question is located between the armature and the bendix; it serves as a “buffer” and an intermediate part between them. Thus, it does not take up so much space in the case, under which there are:

bendix;
fork;
anchor;
stator;
solenoid relay;
mask;
gearbox

Its main difference is that the bendix is fixed on its own shaft, and it interacts with the Priora engine through a gearbox.

Gearless

A gearless starter is much larger than its counterpart, but it does the same job of receiving electrical energy from the battery and sending it to the crankshaft to start the engine. It consists of the following components:

relay;
an electric motor containing the traction relay cores and winding;
brushes and holders, “brush assembly”;
solenoid relay;
stator;
fork;
contact bolts;
anchor;
starter mask;
retaining ring;
freewheel;
front bushing and rear bushing;
starter bendix Priora;
gear.

The gearbox operates according to the following algorithm:

Power is supplied from the battery through the wiring harness.
The anchor is retracted.
The Bendix is attached to the gear, “thrown out”, the pin contacts are closed, and voltage is applied to them.
The armature rotates, the torque is transmitted to the bendix, through it to the gear, and it is already in contact with the engine flywheel.
As soon as the ignition key is released, the retractor relay disconnects the bendix and the gear.

Basic faults

Externally, a breakdown of the Priora starter can be recognized by the following signs:

“turns” and at the same time starts the engine;
does not “twist”;
continues to “twist” after the key is released;
creaks, clicks are heard;
It spins, but for too long.

The reason may lie in a faulty battery, in the starter itself and fuses. The most common are those that are most likely to disable
the car – it’s worth taking a closer look.

Doesn't turn on

If the engine does not start, the problem may be:

discharged or broken battery;
no closure of contacts 50 and 30;
terminals or tips are oxidized;
interturn closure;
short circuit to ground;
open circuit “starter - traction relay”;
the ignition module is faulty;
break in the traction relay winding;
brush wear;
the anchor jams;
the additional relay or the control circuit connected to it is damaged.

Identifying signs of a problem

When the contacts burn out, the driver begins to hear clicks, indicating that the magnet is triggered. At the same time, there is an anchor in the starter, which remains motionless, and even if it moves, it moves extremely slowly. This happens when the contacts, or rather their working surface, are not completely connected, which causes:

The copper splash is heated;
The transient voltage begins to rise;
An air gap immediately begins to appear.

As a result, a dielectric – oxide – appears on the surface. There is only one way you can fix everything. It is necessary to clean the deposits from the deposits that have formed. You can do this work yourself. If the damage is not large, then you can use a diamond file or use a student's eraser. When the device is severely damaged, it is better to replace it completely.

It happens that the coils short out. This happens due to moisture ingress, or if the insulating properties of the emulsion that protects the wires are lost. The latter option is definitely due to large overheating.

Among other things, you can make sure that the device we are considering is working by connecting the starter directly to the battery. For this purpose, you can use wires to start the LADA Priora engine from another car. We connect the wires to the battery and to the starter.

First the negative ones. If the relay is working as expected, then you will need to inspect the connectors, wiring and battery.

Initially, the wiring is checked for integrity. Start your inspection from the starter to the battery. Next, test the entire circuit with a multimeter; if you don’t have one at hand, a light bulb will do. The test is carried out from the battery to the starter.

Don't forget to check the starter fuse, sometimes the problem lies only there.

Starter problems and their elimination

If the starter clicks but does not turn, then first of all attention should be paid to the battery. Most likely, its charge is not enough to start the car. You should also inspect the condition of the terminals. More rarely, the culprit for clicking is the traction relay.

If the starter does not turn the crankshaft of the power plant, then conditionally possible causes can be divided into mechanical and electrical. The first most often includes problems with the clutch or drive gear. If there are any malfunctions, the listed elements must be replaced.

In the electrical part, the weak point is the brushes. They are the most susceptible to wear and tear. When the remaining length of the brushes begins to be 4 mm or less, they must be replaced.

How to change the solenoid relay?

One of the main parts of any starter is the solenoid relay, which is located next to it. This mechanism performs two functions at once:

supplies voltage to the stator and rotor windings;
moves the bendix, which engages the starter gear with the flywheel crown.

Frame.
Two threaded power contacts.
There is a coil inside.
The core is made of metal, which is affected by the electromagnetic field of the coil. It also has a kind of “hook” for connecting to the bendix.
Contact Group.

To replace the solenoid relay you need keys 10 and 13, as well as a screwdriver. First you need to disconnect the battery.

To do this, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the terminal. Then you can proceed to disconnect the solenoid relay. To do this, use a 13 mm wrench to unscrew the two nuts on the power contacts. The relay is attached to the starter housing using 2-3 bolts (depending on the specific design). They need to be unscrewed using a screwdriver. This completes the dismantling; installation of the new relay is carried out in the reverse order.

Principle of operation

It all works like this: when the engine is not running, the armature of the retractor relay is pulled out of the housing due to the action of the spring on it. The same spring holds the Bendix and gear through the fork in a position where there is no engagement.

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, the solenoid relay is first activated.

The electrical energy supplied to the coils of the solenoid relay ensures the appearance of a magnetic field inside the housing.

This field acts on the armature, and it, overcoming the force of the spring, enters the body, after which the retracting coil is turned off and ceases to create a magnetic field, but in the retracted position the armature is held by the holding coil with its magnetic field.

In this case, the armature pulls the fork, which in turn moves the bendix forward along the rotor shaft, and its gear engages with the flywheel ring.

The armature, entering the housing, pushes the starter relay rod, and, moving, closes the contact plates of the positive terminals with each other.

Electricity from the battery is supplied to the brushes of the starter motor, and its rotor begins to rotate. And since the gear has already engaged, the rotor begins to rotate the flywheel.

After starting the power plant and turning the ignition key back, the power to the holding coil stops, its magnetic field disappears and the armature comes out of the housing under the influence of a spring.

At the same time, it disengages the bendix through the fork and stops acting on the relay rod. He, in turn, moving away, opens the contact plates, and the starter is completely turned off.

How to remove the starter for replacement or repair?

Now let's talk about the case when it is necessary to completely remove the starter on a Priora. There may be several reasons for this - from repairing the clutch to replacing the starter itself. But if the reason lies in the fact that the car cannot be started, it is worth checking whether the starter is really to blame. Quite often the reason lies in other nodes. And if the Priora does not start, the starter is not always to blame.

In order to dismantle the mechanism, you will need to perform simple manipulations:

Turn off the power - use a 10mm wrench to loosen the terminal.
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nuts that secure the starter housing to the engine block.
Using the same wrench, unscrew the nuts on the solenoid relay.
Remove the wire from the relay.
Remove the starter through the bottom or top (provided that the air purification filter housing is removed).

Typically, repairing a starter on a Priora consists of changing the brushes, cleaning the lamellas, installing a new bendix and retractor relay. If there is severe damage to the housing or windings, then it will be more effective not to repair, but to completely replace the unit.

Changing the cigarette lighter

Where is the starter relay on the VAZ-2114: photo and location + video

Most drivers do not use the cigarette lighter for its intended purpose, forgetting that many devices that use current are connected through the cigarette lighter. As a result, a common problem arises - the cigarette lighter does not work. The composition of the cigarette lighter on VAZ-2170 cars is the same as that of many other models - it is a metal spiral, which is covered with a plastic casing. A special connector is used to heat the coil. Repairing the cigarette lighter connector for minor faults is often carried out without dismantling.

The cigarette lighter fuse on a Priora can be removed quite easily. Like other Priora fuses, it simply snaps off. The usual fuse replacement scheme: identify the blown element, replace it with a new one with a specific installation location in the block. In this case, the current strength of the replacement part will depend on the location of the installation location.

It may be that replacing the fuse will not bring the expected result. Then, first of all, it is recommended to conduct a thorough check of the wire. The insulation coating on it may be damaged. You also need to check how tightly the connection terminals are inserted. It also happens that the wire that powers the device is disconnected.

Buying a cigarette lighter fuse for a Priora is not a problem today. Domestic stores offer a large selection of auto parts for various models

At the same time, it is important to take into account the advice of experts and buy factory-quality spare parts manufactured in Russia