How to change the collector on a generator

Slip rings

Replacing the slip rings of the VAZ 2110 generator is necessary if there are various types of defects on their surface. Because of them, the rings cannot efficiently perform their most important function - tightly connecting the parts to each other so that contact occurs between them. Very often, individual parts of the generator break. If you change it completely, you will have to spend a considerable amount of money. Therefore, you can repair it by replacing broken parts. On a VAZ 2110, replacing the slip rings of the generator is a simple procedure and you can handle it yourself.

Slip ring block

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Disassembling the generator is the first thing to do. In order to see the rings, it is enough to remove the back cover of the gene from the side of the diode bridge. However, to replace it you will need to disassemble the entire device.

A block of rings is like this.

The rings, as you can see, come assembled. Factory rings have a decent thickness - 1-2 mm. Purchased analogues may be thinner. Blocks of rings “run” on generators, depending on operating conditions, for approximately 300 thousand vehicle kilometers. If the generating device did not fall into the area of primary concern of the car owner, and “lived out its life,” so to speak, in oil, the service life of the slip rings will decrease significantly.

The block is inexpensive. If you replace it along with the bearings and the tablet, you get an almost brand new generator.

Standard generator on Priora - article number and price, where it is

The installation location may vary for different car brands and models. You should look for it in the engine compartment, near the rubber cushion on which the engine is mounted. 90A article 3282.3771, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Generator for Priora produced by BATE price from 4120 rubles

Characteristics:

Weight 5.5 kg
LxHxW 200x170x200 mm
Rectified current 90 A
Power 0.98 kW
Voltage 14 V 100 A

It has article number 5132.3771 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Generator for Lada Priora with air conditioning manufactured by Pramo price from 4200 rub.

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 100 A
Weight 5.3 kg
Voltage 14 V
Power 233 W/kg
Internal cooling
Stator diameter 125 mm
115 A

It has article number 9402.3701-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Article number - 2170-3701010-10 has a KZATE generator for the Lada Priora car, its price starts from 5300 rubles, and Bosch - 2170 3701010 13

Device manufactured by LKD - price from 4400 RUR

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 115 A
Weight 5.2 kg
Nominal voltage 14 V
Power 1610 W
Stator diameter 125 mm
Length 188 mm
115 A

It has article number 9402-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

120 A Has article number 9402-3701-14P, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 120 A
Weight 6 kg
Nominal voltage 14 V

Manufacturer ATE-1 cost from 4000 rub.

The generator tension roller 2170 serves to tension the belt. One of the important tips for beginners: if you unscrew any bolt when changing a part, lubricate it with graphite grease, this will greatly facilitate repairs in the future.

Disassembling the generating device

It is noteworthy that generators come in two types: old and new. The differences between them are in the diameter of the shaft. A 15 mm shaft is installed on old generators, 17 mm on new ones. This means that different bearings should be selected for replacement. The 302nd is suitable for a 15mm shaft, and the 303rd for a 17mm shaft. As for the rear bearing, it goes with all generators and is marked as 202.

So, disassembling the generator begins:

First, remove the plastic cover;
then the diode bridge is dismantled;
remove the tablet (regulator with brushes);
To unscrew the pulley nut, you will have to clamp the generator in a vice, and then use a 24mm socket.

Advice. The gene must be clamped in a vice very carefully so as not to damage its parts. To avoid damage, the pulley is clamped using rubber gaskets.

the relative position of the covers of the generating device is marked;
then the tightening screws are unscrewed.

Note. The fastening screws are tightened very tightly. They are made of soft metal, so the usual methods of turning out oxidized bolts will not work. Here you will need an impact screwdriver or a shaped one, but with a large tip. Fasteners must be pre-treated with WD-40 or brake fluid and wait a little.

It is also recommended to treat the joints of the covers with the device body with WD-40.

take a mounting spatula or an ordinary, but flat screwdriver, and halve the gene.

Dismantling

To disassemble, remove and repair or replace the generator, you will need to do the following.

Drive onto an inspection hole or overpass to have access to the bottom and engine compartment.
Remove the battery, otherwise it will not allow you to get to the nut that holds the generator you are looking for.
Next, the same nut and adjustment bar are removed. Here you will need a 17 mm wrench. Use an extension cord. This will make the task easier; you will have to apply less force to unscrew the fastener.
In the engine compartment, remove the shield that performs dirt protection functions.
Now the drive belt is removed and the wires are disconnected.
Be sure to remove the protective cap and use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the nut that holds the tip and positive cable of your battery.
There is another nut on the fixing bracket, which will also have to be unscrewed.
That's it, you can remove the generator. Just remember to pull out the long bolt first.
When removing, keep an eye on the buffer sleeve. It won't be good if you lose it.

Dismantling work
This completes the procedure for removing the generator. You can proceed with partial repairs or complete replacement of the unit.

Belt

Often, the solution to a poorly functioning alternator is simply adjusting the belt.

Belt

For the device to work effectively, it is necessary to ensure normal deflection of the belt;
The deflection size should be 6-10 millimeters with a force of 98 N or 10 kgf;
To adjust or replace the belt, you need to move the generator slightly to the side, towards the cylinder block;
By rotating the adjusting bolt, you can adjust the belt tension.

If this measure does not help, you will have to pay attention to the voltage regulator and brushes.

Brushes and regulator

It is not recommended to repair the generator brushes, as well as the voltage regulator if they are worn out.

Experienced specialists advise purchasing a complete unit that includes both elements. Replacement is completed in a matter of minutes.

Brushes

Replacing rings

Such partial disassembly of the generating device is sufficient to replace the slip rings and the bearing on the shaft (armature bearing).

Attention. Even if the armature bearing is new, it is recommended to replace it after pressing.

Method for replacing ring block 1

the anchor is clamped in a vice;
the bearing is pressed out;
then use a knife to remove the plastic contact protection, which is located directly under the bearing;
after this, you need to open the bracket of the contact block and tear out the soldered wires so that you can remove the old slip rings (again, you can use a knife).

Attention. If it is not possible to open the bracket due to oxidation, etc., then you can use the old-fashioned method - press out the block with the contacts using a chisel and any long tool, directing the force of the lever upward.

a new block with rings is put on the shaft (a spacer and light blows from above on the block with a hammer - the main thing is that the tails of the block accurately hit the seats);
the wires are tucked into the proper places and sealed.

Note. During the soldering process, it is recommended not to use soldering acid (if used incorrectly, liquid can easily get inside the winding). After this, crimp the soldered contacts with pliers.

Next comes the assembly process:

put the contact protection back on (it should fit tightly);
then a new bearing is installed.

Method for replacing ring block 2

The old block with rings can be removed in another way (a more barbaric method, but effective).

In general, the wire strands that are soldered to the sides of the installed slip ring block should be thoroughly cleaned with a sharp object (knife, screwdriver, etc.) before removal. They are cleaned for the only reason - to make it easier to unsolder.

Then take a side cutter tool (you can use pliers) and use it to bite the eye where the vein is inserted. Move the eyelet up and down until the wire comes off. The same is done with the other ear.

Now you need to put the rings on the anvil (place only the part of the block that has the rings). Take a sharp chisel and a hammer, cut out the rings (not all the way) and pull them out with a side cutter.

With this method of dismantling the ring block, the plastic protection also breaks off. In the future, you can install new protection or leave the contacts without it (this is also done, but not recommended).

The protection is carefully broken off in the area adjacent to the contacts. As a result, the armature shaft should be completely freed from the remnants of the old block of rings; on the sides below, the ends of both wires should be visible, onto which the tails of the new block will be soldered.

Note. By the way, the anchor does not have any polarity, so you don’t have to “bother” with the correct position of the tails of the ring block.

The block, as in the case described above, is stuffed from above through a spacer.

Attention. The contacts (both wires on the side) rise upward so that when the contact block is lowered, they remain on top, and the tails of the block go to their original places. You can guide the wires with a screwdriver more often, thereby eliminating the clamping of the wire tails. The slip ring block should fit tightly into place.

Next, the wires are smoothed to the metal pads of the block to which they must be soldered.

Attention. There should be no empty spaces left on the site during the sealing process. The entire space must be completely treated with tin and rosin.

If you look at the factory solder of some “generator” models, you will see that the wire in this case is twisted into a ring, and the solder itself is carefully and completely filled inside.

After the generator is assembled, it should be checked. After starting the car, we look at the voltage - it happens that it shows a value below normal. This means that you need to put on the excitation wire and start the engine again. More than 14 is the ideal voltage parameter.

The shaft should be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining epoxy, and before installing a new block with rings, the shaft should be coated with poxypol;
It is also recommended to cold weld the junction of the protective cover with the anchor;
When installing a bearing, it is advisable to strike the inner race with a suitable mandrel, or even better, heat the bearing with a special heating pad and place it manually (with gloves on);
All possible contacts that occur during work should not be forgotten to be cleaned.

Signs of a generator malfunction

The generator on the VAZ 2110 has an average resource of about 80-100 thousand km, after which failures in its operation are possible. There can be many reasons for breakdowns: generator bearings, brushes, windings, etc.

As a result of malfunctions, a weak current is supplied to the on-board network. In this case, it is important to pay attention to the following signs:

a battery icon appears on the dashboard (indicating that the battery is not charging);
when the lights are turned on, the headlights burn dimly or the light pulsates (unstable voltage);
turning on additional equipment causes the dashboard backlight to dim;
the load on the on-board network leads to the heater fan working weakly, etc.

Ultimately, the lack of spark at the spark plugs will cause the engine to stall. In such a situation, it is necessary to remove the generator, since after dismantling the device, you can disassemble the generator, check it, repair it (for example, replace the brushes) or completely replace it with a new or working device.

Repair of the VAZ 2110 generator armature.

In the photo we have a new anchor and there are no complaints about it, but at the moment we will talk about possible malfunctions with it.

An excitation coil is installed inside the armature. Replacing the brushes of the VAZ 2107 generator, do it yourself. Replacing the slip rings and bearings of the VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 generator. It's time to sort it out. The coil has two terminals that are connected to slip rings. We need electricity to pass from the first contact ring through the coil to the other and not penetrate the housing.

To check, we will need a special multimeter device. If you are an experienced radio mechanic, you can easily check the resistance of the excitation coil. Resistance should be in the range from 1.8 Ohm to 8 Ohm. Checking and replacing brushes on the generator and VAZ 2107. Service without removing the generator. principle of replacing valve stem seals replacing valve stem seals VAZ 2110 16kl. But when the device readings differ from the norm, it means a replacement

anchors or its repair.

But, since many drivers have not even held such a device in their hands, you can check it using the sound mode. For this you need the device itself. We set it to beep mode.

Reddish arrows indicate the position of the mode switch and where to connect the two wires with probes (by color).

When the probes are closed together, a sound signal occurs. Next we check the excitation coil for a break. By connecting the probes to the contact rings of the generator armature, a sound signal should occur, this means that there is no break in the contact. Now let's check the coil for shorted turns.

Set the mode switch to this position and freeze it.

If the device readings show less than 1.8, it means that there are short-circuited turns in the coil and such an armature requires replacement.

Next, we need to check whether the coil is shorted to the housing. We set the mode switch to the sound signal position and connect the probes, one to the armature contact ring, and the other to the body.

If the beep

is located, which means that the insulation of the excitation coil with the generator armature housing is broken. The upcoming introduction of an anchor is not permissible, either we buy a new one or repair the old one. Do-it-yourself replacement of VAZ 2110 thresholds video. If there is no sound signal and the slightest resistance (the resistance is shown on the display of the device), it means that it is working.

We have sorted out the excitation coil and move on to the contact rings of the generator armature.

Replacing the slip rings of the VAZ 2110 generator armature.

Having twirled the anchor in our hands and looked at the worn contact rings, we proceed to replacing them.

This work can be done without the help of others at home, there are virtually no difficulties.

To dismantle the old rings, it is necessary to release the contacts that go to the excitation coil. The contacts may be pressed and need to be released, but they may also be soldered, then you will not be able to do without a soldering iron.

Having freed the contact wires, we lightly clamp the armature in a vice and, turning it with our hands, rip off the old contact rings by the armature in different directions.

We pick out the remains with a screwdriver. VAZ 2107 | checking and replacing generator and regulator brushes. We need to completely remove all parts of the old slip ring

How to replace slip rings on an old-style generator rotor.

Generator repair

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We fill new contact rings carefully so that they do not become distorted, otherwise during operation of the generator the brushes will fall apart or they will wear out quickly. It is better to stuff through a wooden container.

Having installed new rings, we secure the wires going to the excitation coil. It’s better, of course, to solder them, it will be more reliable.

Don't forget to install a new protective washer.

Repair and replacement of the stator of the VAZ 2110 generator.

The generator stator has three windings. These windings are connected together on one side and to a diode bridge on the other. They are wound on a plate-type metal core.

First of all, we visually inspect the stator windings for damage. Damage can be different, for example, chipped insulation, burnt windings, visible breakage of windings. If such causes are identified, it is advisable to replace the stator.

But if everything seems to be in order, we proceed to check it with a multimeter.

You need to set the device mode switch to a sound signal and connect the probes to the windings one by one and take measurements.

Since the ends of the windings are connected to one point, all three outer wires must ring each other. Above in the photo, I indicated the alternate connection of the device in different colors.

If, when checking one of the windings, no sound signal is heard, it means there is a break somewhere and the stator needs to be replaced. You can, of course, rewind the winding, but more experience is needed here, so it is better to replace the entire stator.

In the same way, we check whether the windings are shorting to the stator housing. Replacing valve stem seals for VAZ 2110 | car enthusiasts. To do this, we connect one probe to each winding terminal in turn, and the other probe to the stator housing.

We can finish this with the stator and move on.

How to tension the alternator belt

When checking whether the belt is tensioned on a Priora car, keep in mind that marks are applied to the camshaft pulleys. Rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft pulleys coincide with the cutouts on the reverse side of the drive.

With normal timing tension, the protrusion of the inner sleeve of the tensioner pulley should coincide with the opening of the outer race. If the belt is in good condition and the marks do not match 1/2 of the reach width, the tension should be adjusted.

Loosen the bolt holding the tension roller.
Make sure the cutout of the roller aligns exactly with the protrusion on the back of the roller bushing.
Using wrench 15, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt.
Simply put, to tension the belt, the generator roller needs to be turned in the opposite direction clockwise.

Replacement and repair of the diode bridge of the VAZ 2110 generator.

The diode bridge consists of two aluminum plates, a plastic spacer and nine diodes, which are soldered into a so-called bridge. These diodes rectify alternating voltage into direct voltage and the failure of one or more diodes (even a minor one) entails a drop in voltage and power in the on-board network.

You may not even notice the failure of the diode bridge, because, as a rule, all the diodes do not burn out at once, but maybe only one at a time. Now I will tell you in detail how to properly check the diode bridge for serviceability.

If one of the diodes is leaking, the battery will run out due to lack of power. If the diode breaks, you need to constantly rev up the gas so that charging occurs, in general, keep the engine at high speeds. All this indicates that something is wrong with the generator. I described in detail how to correctly determine a malfunction in the generator in the article “Checking the VAZ generator”, do not be lazy and read it, there is a lot of useful information for you.

Principle of operation

When you turn the ignition on, current from the battery enters the field winding through the brush assembly, where a magnetic field appears. When the crankshaft rotates, the rotor goes into rotation. The magnetic field passes through the stator winding and an alternating voltage is generated at the output. Having reached a certain rotation speed, the excitation winding begins to be powered directly from the generator.

The alternating voltage is changed to constant thanks to the rectifier unit. Now the generator charges the battery and powers consumers. When the rotation speed changes, the voltage regulator is connected to the operation.

Basic faults

Why does the generator not charge the Lada Priora car? There may be several reasons:

the diode bridge is damaged;
the turns of the stator winding are closed;
slip rings wear out;
the pulley is damaged or worn out;
the wires of the charging circuit are damaged;
the bearing is destroyed or worn out;
the voltage regulator is damaged;
The current collecting brushes wear out.

In all of the above cases, repair of the Lada Priora generator will be required.

Correct check of the diode bridge of the VAZ 2110 generator.

To check, we will need our multimeter, which we have already used before.

Set the wires of the probes red to red, and black to black, so that each corresponds to its own value. Replacing the slip rings of the VAZ 2110 generator. Below in the photo, I have indicated with arrows which values go to which wires. Red is a plus and black is a minus. We also set the mode switch to 200 kOhm.

The device should show one. We attach the red probe to the positive bolt of the diode bridge and the negative probe, and check the diodes one by one for leakage.

In the photo above, I indicated where we attach the positive and negative probes.

The readings on the device should be one (infinity). If at least some numbers fluctuate on some diode, it means there is a leak and such a diode needs to be replaced.

Next, we do everything the other way around, connect the negative probe to the positive, and use the positive probe to check the diodes.

In this case, the device indicators should be in the range from 400 Ohms to 700 Ohms. Basically, the indicators are somewhere in the range of 500 Ohms. Here, one serious factor needs to be taken into account. Replacing valeo generator brushes, without removal. Replacement and repair of a VAZ 2107 generator. All diodes should show the same value, if 500 Ohms, then for all, only a small deviation is allowed, about 10-15 Ohms. If these indicators deviate from at least one diode, either the diode or the entire bridge needs to be replaced.

Now we turn over the diode bridge and perform this operation again (check the second arm of the diodes).

The device indicators in this case should be one. By changing the polarity of the probes, the indicators should be the same as on the diodes on the other side within 500 Ohms.

You must remember one thing, all indicators must be the same, and if there are large deviations, then the diode bridge is scrap.

Small diodes are checked this way.

Here, in the first case, the device should show one, and by reversing the polarity of the probes, the resistance is the same on all diodes.

What else I want to add, when installing the diode bridge on the generator, remove the cylindrical bushing on the positive bolt and clean it until shiny with a file.

In this way we will improve contact and get rid of electricity losses.

Well, I think everything is clear here now, I explained it as best I could.

Replacing the drive belt on a car with air conditioning

The replacement process looks a little different on a car with air conditioning.
VD40 is used to process engine mounts and part bracket bolts.
The right front wheel is removed or turned out.
The generator roller is unscrewed. The belt is moved to the side and the engine mount bolts are unscrewed.
The Lada Priora needs to be jacked up so as to hang the engine.
We replace the old belt with a new one.
We lift the car with a jack, the engine is lowered and you will be able to tighten all the bolts.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 generator regulator relay.

generator regulator relay is a component that cannot be repaired; it just needs to be replaced with a new one. I described how to check it correctly in the article at the link above, “Checking the VAZ generator.”

There are many different types of regulator relays that are installed on VAZ car generators, and no matter what I describe here (because the article is already long), I decided to write a separate article “review of the VAZ regulator relay”, if you wish, read it.

To replace the regulator, you need to unscrew two bolts and remove the contact wire. Before installing a new relay, make sure that the brushes move freely and do not jam. Replacing slip rings and bearings possible malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 generator. There is nothing difficult in the installation, I think you can handle it.

Reasons for replacing the belt on a Priora and how to change it

The serpentine belt of the Lada Priora 2170 generator with air conditioning has a size of 742 mm, without air conditioning with power steering - 1125 mm. It must be replaced every time after 60,000 km of the vehicle, or two years after its installation. When the timing belt wears out, the valves may meet the pistons, which will lead to engine repair. An unscheduled replacement of the alternator belt of a Lada Priora 16 valve car with air conditioning may be required in the following cases:

delamination or cracks of the rubber surface;
folds and cracks on the inner surface of the teeth;
delamination of the end surface;
traces of technical fluids on the surface of the belt;
prolonged operation of a tightened belt.