replacing the exhaust manifold Kalina 8 valves

The Lada Kalina car, equipped with an injection engine, cannot be called expensive or difficult to maintain. If problems arise, for example, with the exhaust manifold, then everything can be solved on your own.

The exhaust pipe is necessary to collect and redirect exhaust gases to a special exhaust pipe of the muffler. replace the Kalina exhaust manifold at home.

Replacing the exhaust manifold and gasket

When dismantling the manifold, the gasket is destroyed in almost any case. Therefore, it is worth removing its remains from the parts. Replacing the Kalina exhaust manifold gasket is a simple process. The use of sealants and other third-party substances is not recommended. They may later get into the crankcase.

Replacing the manifold itself is simple - just take a new part and install it according to the principle in which it was attached. Assembling the system is simply the reverse order of the steps outlined in the last section.

Advice! Don't forget about cleanliness. This is an important factor in long and trouble-free operation of the car.

Gasket for Kalina manifold 8 valves

These are: fuel system, exhaust gas recirculation system. After a run of 80-100 thousand km, the metal housing of the exhaust manifold begins to crack at the seams.

Flange connections are torn away from their seats.

Replacing a catalyst with a spider, as a process, is divided into several stages.

This does not take into account the fact that the catalyst itself needs to be changed due to burnout of internal parts due to systematic contact with a hot flame flow. The average gas temperature reaches 600℃.

So, division into stages: collecting data on the number and location of catalysts in the car; preparation of spare parts in each specific case for modification;

Is there an alternative

Will Priora work without a catalyst? Of course it will be! The absence of a catalytic converter will not affect its performance in any way, as some “experienced” craftsmen claim. Yes, the car will no longer meet established environmental standards, but it will not work any worse.

If you don’t want to spend money on a standard catalyst, you can always buy a universal device, which will cost you half the price, taking into account installation. Essentially, it is the same catalytic converter with the same functions and similar design. And they are produced mainly in the same factories as the original ones, and their price is lower due to the absence of various trade markups.

Well, if you want to easily tune your Priora, buy a good flame arrester for it. It is installed instead of a catalyst. With it, the engine power will increase due to improved exhaust gas flow, and the sound of the power unit will acquire sporty notes.

The main reasons for replacing the catalyst gasket

One of the main reasons for catalytic converter failure is that the exhaust channels become clogged. The formation of plugs leads to the deposition of soot, soot, and other solid deposits. Sources of clogging can be:

low quality fuel;
the use by the owner of the technical equipment of all kinds of chemical additives in the combustible mixture (these reagents only have a detrimental effect on the performance of the fuel system);
possible mechanical damage to the housing or internal connections;
long-term operation without replacement or prevention;
faulty engine ignition system;
unstable operation of the oxygen sensor, due to which the combustible mixture is lean or enriched, which also has an extremely detrimental effect on the performance of the entire system.

Priora fuel system

• gas tank;• pump and filter located in the tank;• fuel line;• pressure regulator;• fuel rail;• four injectors;• throttle valve;• intake manifold;• electronic engine management system.

The work is based on the fact that when the ignition is turned on, the electric fuel pump starts working, which builds up pressure in the rail. Further, when the engine is cranked by the starter, the electronic control unit opens and closes the injectors, the air-fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers, according to the operating diagram.

After fuel enters the combustion chamber, a spark is formed between the electrodes of the spark plugs. The fuel ignites and the engine starts. The injectors are electromagnetic valves, and the control unit is responsible for their operation. He is also responsible for the quality of the mixture, the ratio of air and gasoline. Sometimes problems arise and you have to disassemble the fuel system for repairs.

Reasons for removing and replacing the exhaust manifold Lada Kalina

The exhaust manifold is made of cast iron, which is very resistant to temperatures. However, a critical temperature - 800-900 degrees - can render the distributor unusable. In addition, there are many other factors that negatively affect it. This list can include:

Mechanical damage;
Loss of tightness at the junction with the cylinder head (cylinder block);
Inoperative condition of the gasket between the BC head and the manifold;
Due to constant overheating, cracks or warping may occur.

Sometimes replacing the exhaust manifold on Kalina 8 valves is necessary in order to install a more advanced and high-quality part.

Important! The exhaust manifold gasket is created from pressed reinforced asbestos and is necessary to create a tight connection between the BC head and the distributor. The fact is that the BC head is made of aluminum, and the manifold is made of cast iron. Therefore, under the influence of temperature, these two elements expand and contract differently. And asbestos allows you to coordinate the difference in thermal expansion. The main threat to the gasket is constant exposure to high temperatures.

There are a number of symptoms that will tell you that you need to replace the exhaust manifold of your Lada Kalina:

In any operating mode, the engine makes an unpleasant characteristic sound;
Exhaust gases enter under the hood or even into the interior of your car;
The engine loses power due to a mismatch between the BC head and the manifold.

How to remove the receiver on a Priora

Tools that may come in handy: - 10mm socket; - key 13; - screwdriver.

To remove the intake manifold you will need:

Due to the fact that in the next steps of the instructions there will be manipulations with electrical wiring, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal of the battery.
The next step is to remove the plastic screen (cover) from the engine housing. This is done so that it does not interfere with your work.
After which, it is necessary to remove power from the four ignition coils and dismantle them. To do this, pull out the contact chips. Take a 10mm socket (or a wrench of the same size) and unscrew one fastening bolt on each coil. Simply pull the coils upwards using the necessary force. Now they can be removed. There is no need to remove the spark plugs themselves; they will not interfere with removal. On the other hand, it is advisable to take advantage of the situation and check their condition (gap and spark quality).
Our next task is to dismantle the throttle assembly. The receiver cannot be removed without removing it. To remove the throttle and avoid excess antifreeze leaking out of the cooling system pipes, you need to prepare first (unscrew the cap of the expansion tank with coolant). To remove the throttle, it is necessary to disconnect all the pipes connected to it, including those responsible for the air supply (corrugation) and cooling. In order to remove the assembly itself, you need to unscrew the two fastening nuts with a wrench or a 13mm socket. Now the assembly together with the sealing strip can be removed, and at the same time inspected and, if necessary, cleaned.
At this point, locate and remove the crankcase ventilation hose. To do this, loosen the tightened clamp using a flat-head screwdriver and pull it towards you.
The next step is to dismantle the dipstick structure to check the oil level. It is attached to one screw, which must be unscrewed.
Now the most important thing is to remove the Priora 16 valve receiver. Doing this is not as difficult as it seems. First of all, we need to unscrew the nuts from the three connecting bolts at the junction of the block and the manifold. It is most convenient to work from a repair pit or using a lift, having previously dismantled the underbody protection of the car. After that, you just have to unscrew two additional nuts.
It's time to move into the engine compartment and unscrew the two special mounting bolts that are located on the right and left of the receiver housing.
After which the receiver can be carefully removed.
Depending on the type and configuration of components in your engine, you may need to unscrew, rotate or remove any component that prevents the receiver from being removed (for example, power steering or a generator).

When should the Kalina catalyst gasket be replaced?

Most vehicle owners mistakenly think that the catalytic converter, even if in good condition, is the reason for the reduction in power of the power unit.
In view of this, owners of budget car models deliberately exclude this part from the exhaust tract. However, the power of the power unit is reduced solely due to a violation of the throughput of the exhaust gas converter, due to damage to the honeycombs inside it.

Our car service specialists identify the main reasons for premature failure of parts and wear of gaskets:

Low fuel quality;
Use of various additives;
Mechanical damage to elements;
Incorrect operation of the ignition system;
Failure of the lambda probe, as a result of which the process of formation of the fuel mixture is disrupted.

If the catalyst fails, the following symptoms are observed:

If the throughput of the neutralizer is completely impaired, the vehicle's power unit will start and immediately stall, or not start at all. You can diagnose catalytic converters as quickly as possible in our service center. But you can also perform an independent check, however, it is not always highly accurate. To carry it out, unscrew the lambda located in front of the catalyst, and then start the engine. If it starts, the catalyst is faulty.
The acceleration dynamics of the car are noticeably reduced, the speed of the power unit drops.
Fuel consumption increases significantly. However, this evidence of a catalyst malfunction only applies in the event of a noticeable decrease in the power and acceleration dynamics of the vehicle. To put it simply, if the vehicle begins to become “stupid” and fuel consumption increases, therefore, the converter needs to be replaced.
The “CHECK ENGINE” indicator on the dashboard came on. But this is not always direct evidence of a catalyst failure. In this case, you need to contact a car service for detailed diagnostics.

Signs of damage

Problems in operation are immediately noticeable. The first sign is the engine starting and stopping, or no start at all. In a service station, diagnostics are performed by a specialist. The oxygen sensor is unscrewed from its seat and the technician tries to start the engine; if it works the first time, then the reason is the catalytic filler and the tightness of the system. Otherwise, the reason lies elsewhere.

Secondary signs: reduced dynamics of vehicle acceleration, average speeds are reduced, fuel consumption increases, the “CHECK ENGINE” error indicator lights up on the central instrument panel.

The above symptoms may not always objectively indicate the exact cause of the breakdown. Auto mechanics recommend using several at the same time. For example, increased fuel consumption may not always indicate a problem with the exhaust system. There are many related breakdowns that can give such a symptom.

In 99% of cases, a clear whistle in the area of the engine compartment is guaranteed to identify the breakdown. Of course, if a turbine is not installed. But it is not provided in Lada Kalina.

Replacement of the intake pipe gasket and catalytic collector

The intake pipe and catalytic collector are connected to the cylinder head through a common sealing gasket. The gasket also covers two channels of the cylinder head cooling jacket, which extend into the plane of the junction of the head with the intake pipe and catalytic collector. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. Drain the coolant from the engine (see “Checking the level and replacing the coolant”). We remove the receiver (see “Removing the receiver”) and the fuel rail with injectors (see “Checking the injectors, removing the fuel rail and injectors”). Disconnect the engine management system wiring harness block from the oxygen concentration sensor wiring harness block (see “Removing the control oxygen concentration sensor”). Having unscrewed the three nuts securing the pipe flange of the additional muffler to the flange of the catalytic collector, we disconnect the additional muffler from the catalytic collector (see “Removing the additional muffler”).

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two nuts of the bracket securing the catenary collector.

. and remove the bracket from the bracket studs.

Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the catalytic converter bracket to the cylinder block.

. and remove the bracket.

Using a “13” wrench, unscrew the nut of the upper fastening of the right support bracket of the intake pipe. Remove the ground wire tip from the intake pipe stud.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the bolt of the lower fastening of the right support bracket of the intake pipe.

. and remove the bracket.

Remove the spacer bushing from the intake pipe stud.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the clutch housing to the cylinder block, which also secures the lower end of the left support bracket of the intake pipe.

Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the upper fastening of the left support bracket of the intake pipe.

. and remove the bracket. On the left rear side of the engine...

. Using the “13” head, loosen the tightening of nut 1 securing the coolant pump pipe bracket, unscrew nut 2 securing the catalytic collector and nut 3 of the general fastening of the catalytic collector and intake pipe to the cylinder head (for clarity, shown on a dismantled engine).

Move the coolant pump pipe bracket aside.

Remove the heat shield from the cylinder head studs and the washer from the top stud. On the right rear side of the engine.

. Using the “13” head, unscrew the two nuts securing the heat shield and the eye.

Remove the heat shield and ring from the cylinder head studs. ..using the “13” head, unscrew the nut for fastening the catalytic collector and the nut for the general fastening of the catalytic collector and inlet pipe, located on the same studs. Remove the washers from the studs.

Using a “13” socket, unscrew two nuts 1 of the upper fastening of the intake pipe and one nut 2 of the upper fastening of the catalytic collector. Remove the washers from the studs.

Using a “13” socket, unscrew the two nuts of the common lower fastening of the catalytic collector and the intake pipe to the cylinder head. Remove the washers from the studs.

Remove the inlet pipe.

Remove the sealing gasket of the intake pipe and catalytic collector.

After each removal of the intake pipe or catalytic collector, the gasket must be replaced with a new one. Before installation, we clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head, intake pipe and cathode from remnants of the old gasket and carbon deposits. Apply graphite lubricant to the cylinder head studs. We carry out assembly in reverse order. At the four common fastening points of the intake pipe and the catalytic converter (their joints), it is necessary to install thick washers with a large outer diameter on the studs.

Common mounting points for the intake pipe and catalytic collector (shown on a dismantled engine for clarity).

Replacing the Kalina exhaust manifold gasket

on the injection engine of a VAZ 2107 car

2. For the convenience of replacing the manifold gasket, remove the battery (see “VAZ 2107 - removal and installation”).

3. Drain the coolant from the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 car (see “Coolant - checking the level and replacing”).

5. Unscrew two nuts and a bolt securing the starter shield and remove the starter shield from the exhaust manifold studs (see “Starter of a VAZ 2107 car - removal, installation”).

6. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolts of the upper fastening of the front and rear braces to the intake manifold of the VAZ 2107 pipeline.

7. Loosen the tightening of the lower nut securing the front brace to the stud of the bracket of the right support of the unit and move the brace to the side.

8. Loosen the bolt of the upper fastening of the starter (see “Starter of a VAZ 2107 car - removal, installation”) and move the rear brace to the side.

9. Using a 13 mm socket wrench with an extension, unscrew the nut securing the ground wire tip and disconnect it.

Replacing the gasket under the manifold 2108, viburnum, grant

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I disassembled the Viburnum exhaust manifold. We'll take a new one)

Lada Kalina

catalyst.
substitution
for spider 4-2-1. nothing complicated.

11. Using a 13 mm socket wrench with a deep head, unscrew two nuts A of the joint fastening of the intake manifold of the pipeline with the exhaust manifold and two nuts B of the fastening of the intake manifold of the pipeline.

12. Using the same equipment, we unscrew two nuts A for the joint fastening of the intake manifold of the pipeline with the exhaust manifold and nut B for fastening the exhaust manifold.

13. On the VAZ 2107 car engine, unscrew the exhaust pipe clamp to the bracket and remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold studs (see “Muffler exhaust pipe - removal and installation”).

14. Using a 13 mm socket wrench with a deep head, unscrew the nut of the front fastening of the exhaust manifold.

16. Remove the washers from the studs. Under the nuts of the joint fastening of the intake manifold of the pipeline and the exhaust manifold, washers of increased thickness are installed.

17. Moving the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head, remove the intake manifold pipeline from the studs.

18. Remove the sealing gasket of the intake manifold of the pipeline and the exhaust manifold. We replace the manifold gasket with a new one.

We install all the removed parts on the injection engine of the VAZ 2107 car in the reverse order. And we fill the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 car with coolant.

Dismantling

There is only one difficulty in this process - the inaccessibility of some fasteners. It is best to carry out this “operation” in a viewing hole or on a lift. Of course, this is not necessary, but it is much more convenient.

Work order:

First you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery or turn off the mains switch.
Next, it is recommended to drain all the antifreeze into a container prepared in advance.
Next, you need to disconnect the fuel pipes. If the coolant is not drained, at this stage it will go into the cylinders.
Now you have to find the throttle position and idle speed sensors, and then remove the wires from them.
We first remove the crankcase ventilation from the hoses, then the brake booster.
Remove the intake manifold (receiver) together with the throttle assembly.
Then remove the fuel rail (without disassembling) and the wires from the injector.
There's not much left. Now you need to remove the heat reflecting screen. The exhaust pipe of the muffler is unscrewed from the manifold.
We remove the exhaust manifold Kalina 8 valves from the BC head studs, to do this we unscrew the fastenings shown below in the figure

How to install a 4-2-1 spider in place of the standard converter on a Lada Kalina 8V

In a car exhaust system, a catalytic converter is needed to burn harmful elements in the exhaust gases to the level of H2O and CO2. It is quite difficult to predict its service life, since it depends on many factors. But many owners of VAZ cars prefer to get rid of the collector before the end of its service life. For these purposes, they use special inserts, which are an inexpensive alternative to a neutralizer.

Contents Some car enthusiasts are sure that even a working neutralizer prevents the engine from developing the power it needs. This is not true. As for clogged or melted honeycombs, this phenomenon is the result of careless handling of the vehicle and its operation with a faulty fuel supply and ignition system.

The main reasons for device failure:

Unbalanced fuel-air mixture due to a broken oxygen sensor.
Unsatisfactory fuel quality.
Incorrect ignition operation.
Mechanical damage to the collector.
Use of fuel additives.

For the most part, replacing the catalyst on Kalina 8 valves is done as a result of using low quality fuel. Its slow combustion occurs partly in the exhaust. The detonation of gasoline destroys the ceramic structure of the honeycomb, which over time begins to crumble and clog thin passages.

The engine begins to overheat and loses traction. An obstacle to the free passage of gases contributes to an increase in their pressure.

To shoot or not to shoot?

So, you are faced with the final failure of the catalyst and the impossibility of resuscitating it. Should I delete the device or not?

Without it, the quality of the exhaust deteriorates: it begins to meet EURO 2 standards. It is believed that this makes it difficult to undergo maintenance. However, this argument seems dubious to us: catalysts are installed only on injectors, and besides, cars are necessarily electronic. Somehow, Ladas from 1 to 7 models undergo technical inspection;
The car’s power begins to surpass previous figures, which will be a balm for the owner’s soul.
We also add lower fuel consumption as a plus. The reduction sometimes reaches 10-15%;
In terms of cons, the list turns out to be quite impressive. First of all, this is an almost 100% occurrence of errors in reporting and a continuous lighting of the Check engine. Some may be indifferent to this, some will be annoyed by it, but the main thing is that there is a possibility of missing a serious warning about other problems in the car;
The muffler will work worse. Moreover, it will burn out faster, since exhaust gases with an unacceptably high temperature will begin to break into it. Plus the exhaust will have a loud and unpleasant sound. Fire is likely to appear from the exhaust pipe;
The engine will become noisier; Vibration is likely to be transmitted to the interior.

In our opinion, the pros and cons of catalyst removal are combined with the predominance of the latter. It will be completely insufficient to simply cut it out: too much is lost. At a minimum, you will need a flame arrester instead of a catalyst. And to remove the constant Check engine reminder, you also need to install a decoy lambda probe like “Stronger”.

Moreover, in many cases, blende is not enough, and the issue has to be resolved by installing a series RC filter. All the work taken together, even if carried out with the participation of auto experts, still turns out to be cheaper (and much!) than a new catalyst. However, before it breaks, it is still better to take care of it so that it lives as long as possible.

Content

Actions in emergency situations Daily checks Operating instructions Warnings and technical rules Basic instruments, measuring Engine and its systems Transmission Chassis Steering Brake system Vehicle electrical equipment Body Interior ventilation and heating system Applications Fault codes Electrical diagrams

Sources

https://expertvaz.ru/2110/premer-komplektatsii-tsena.html
https://videoremont-mashin.ru/remont-kpp-vaz-21108/ustanovka-konditsionera-v-vaz-2110-ot-priory-svoimi-rukami/
https://monolith.in.ua/predohraniteli-lada-2110/

Lada Kalina (8, 16 valves): replacing the catalyst with a spider or flame arrester

LADA Kalina has been produced since 2003, when the first copies rolled off the assembly line.
Before this, prototypes of future production models were repeatedly tested. The process of creating the model itself turned out to be quite difficult and lengthy.

The first developments began back in 1999 and lasted until 2003.

During its existence, the model has undergone repeated updates. There were four in total:

1.4 liter engine, 16 valve mechanism, Euro standardization – 3, 4;
1.6-liter engine, 16-valve mechanism, Euro standardization – 3, 4 (production started in December 2009);
1.6-liter engine, 8-valve mechanism, Euro standardization – 2, 3 (subject to the “Basic” package);
1.6-liter engine, 8-valve mechanism, Euro 4 standardization (Lux+ package from November 2011).

Despite the many positive aspects of the car and the brand as a whole, it is necessary to highlight a number of weak points. These are: fuel system, exhaust gas recirculation system.

After a run of 80-100 thousand km, the metal housing of the exhaust manifold begins to crack at the seams. Flange connections are torn away from their seats. This does not take into account the fact that the catalyst itself needs to be changed due to burnout of internal parts due to systematic contact with a hot flame flow. The average gas temperature reaches 600℃.

Replacement of intake manifold gaskets VAZ 2114 8 cl (Kalina, 2110)

21.03.2019 2095

It is recommended to replace the gaskets on the VAZ intake manifold after each removal. But I had to do this prematurely, as I discovered a significant air leak, which mainly manifested itself on a cold engine. Every cold start was accompanied by a terrible tripping.

In addition to the tripping when cold, there was a slight drop in speed when sharply pressing the gas pedal. This applies to both a cold and a hot engine.

A homemade smoke generator made from a cigarette helped me detect the air leak. A very simple and primitive contraption that has helped me out more than once.

My car (Kalina 1.6 8 valves) has a plastic intake manifold (receiver). The same will be installed on all VAZ family cars with an 8-valve 1.6-liter engine (2114, 2110, etc.). 4 rubber rings act as gaskets. According to reviews, black rings last much longer than white ones. And I was convinced of this personally - these gaskets lasted for about six months and began to let air through. They felt like plastic to the touch. Unfortunately, I didn’t find black ones, so I’ll install white ones again. I hope these last longer.

To remove the intake manifold (receiver), you must first unscrew the corrugation from the air filter, the throttle cable, and the small crankcase ventilation hoses. I will not remove the throttle and its heating.

The intake manifold is attached to 5 studs - one in the center, two on the sides. To unscrew them you will need a 13mm socket. After unscrewing the nuts, you need to remove the receiver itself from the studs and move it to the side. Remove the old gaskets and wipe the seats from oil and dirt. You also need to wipe the seat on the engine.

The manifold has special grooves for guides on the gaskets. The gaskets must be installed with the higher side in the plastic manifold. It is the guide that will prevent you from making mistakes.

I additionally coated the areas near the guides with sealant on the outside of the gasket. Because it felt like that was where the ring entered the groove the deepest. In addition, there was a place for air leaks on the old gaskets.

After all procedures, the intake manifold can be installed back. I couldn't find any information on how tightly to tighten the mounting nuts. I delayed it at my own peril and risk. The main thing is not to overtighten, as the manifold is plastic and can crack.

This is how I replaced the old intake manifold gaskets on my Kalina with new ones. There is no more air leakage, the engine stopped stalling when cold and began to behave much better when warm.

Restoring the tightness of the intake system on the editorial Kalina

There is nothing criminal about this.

Over time, the tightness of its joints is broken and liquid can seep out. In addition to the aesthetic aspect, this is also reflected in the operation of the motor. Through the cracks not only oil presses, but also air leaks.

Most often, this leads to uneven engine operation (slight tripping) at idle speed. Intake manifold

The tightness of the intake system is very important for the proper operation of the engine. The tightness of the intake system is very important for the proper operation of the engine. Oil traces at the manifold joints are visible to the naked eye, and air leaks can be calculated using a simple technique.

While the engine is running, spray any suspicious areas with brake system or carburetor cleaner.

If after some time the engine speed “floats” or it begins to choke altogether, then there is a significant suction in these places.

The purifier, as a flammable substance, entering the intake, enriches the air-fuel mixture, which causes the engine speed to fluctuate. The intake of additional air, not taken into account by the sensors on the intake side, causes a constant leaning of the mixture. The control system tries to adjust the fuel supply based on the output readings of the front lambda probe.

When is it necessary to replace and remove the exhaust manifold on a VAZ-2114

Huge temperature changes are the main problem faced by the exhaust manifold and the gasket, for which it is removed. The collector itself is made of a special grade of cast iron; it can withstand high temperatures (up to 800-900 degrees), however, these are critical values, after which the collector may warp or crack.

Exhaust manifold VAZ-2114

Its main task is to collect exhaust gases and distribute them into the exhaust pipe of the muffler.

Replacing or dismantling the VAZ-2114 exhaust manifold is necessary in the following cases:

Mechanical damage to the collector.
Warping and loss of tightness at the junction with the cylinder head.
Burnout of the gasket between the head and the manifold.
The appearance of cracks as a result of engine overheating.
Replacing the collector with a device of a different configuration, adapted to a more severe operating mode.

In the event that we are not going to participate in high-speed races for the prize of the head of the regional traffic police, replacing or dismantling the collector may be necessary in a number of cases.

Tools and materials for dismantling

There are a number of symptoms that will indicate that you need to prepare to remove the exhaust manifold:

increased noise level in the engine compartment, the engine produces a characteristic, loud sound in any operating mode;
breakthrough of exhaust gases into the engine compartment and sometimes into the cabin;
reduction in engine power due to a mismatch between the exhaust gas outlets in the cylinder head and in the manifold.

Many people decide to replace the standard manifold with a “tuning” one, made of stainless steel and having a different configuration, thereby wanting to increase engine power and reduce the resistance that the standard manifold provides to exhaust gases. As a rule, the most common reason for dismantling a unit is gasket burnout.

Exhaust manifold gasket

The manifold gasket on the VAZ-2114 is made of pressed reinforced asbestos and is designed to ensure a tight connection between the block head and the manifold flanges. Asbestos is used to correct the coefficient of thermal expansion of the aluminum alloy from which the head is cast and the cast iron from which the manifold is cast. At high speeds and under prolonged loads, the gasket may burn out. Then its replacement and dismantling of the collector are inevitable.

To dismantle the manifold, you will need a standard set of tools, a set of sockets with extensions, and WD-40 penetrating lubricant or its equivalent. In case of broken studs, a stud extractor, drill, drill bits and a set of taps will be useful. A day or two before dismantling the collector, it is worth moistening all the fasteners several times, this will significantly simplify the removal procedure.

Sources

Ivan, Aleksandrovich Zenin Civil and trade law of foreign countries / Ivan Aleksandrovich Zenin. - M.: Yurayt, 2009. - 150 p.
Practical accounting. Official materials and comments (720 hours) No. 10/2017; Lights - Moscow, 2022. - 178 p.
Gegedyush, Natalya State and municipal management: lecture notes / Natalya Gegedyush. - M.: Yurayt, 1981. - 194 p.
Sergeeva O. S. Practice of considering cases of violations of antimonopoly legislation by credit and insurance organizations; Synergy - M., 2008. - 492 p.
Puzakov S. Ya. Personnel Directory, in 2 volumes. T. 2; Prometheus - M., 2022. - 448 p.

Required tools and materials

The list of what is needed is, in principle, standard: a standard set of tools, an extension cord with various heads, WD-40 or other similar lubricant. If you know that the problem is broken studs, then a stud extractor, taps, drill and drill bits will be added to the above list. In addition, a bucket or basin, possibly an old canister, should be at hand.

Advice! A few days before replacing the exhaust manifold, you can begin to lubricate all fasteners in the system. Can be lubricated several times a day. This will greatly simplify the task and make replacement quick.