HELPFUL ADVICE If you don't have a funnel to add oil, you can use a funnel made from the neck of a plastic bottle.
7. Start the Lada Priora engine. If, at a normal level, the emergency oil pressure drop lamp goes out, you can continue driving. If the lamp does not go out, check the serviceability of the oil pressure sensor. It is mounted at the top of the rear of the camshaft bearing housing. Unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place. If at normal idle speed the pressure is more than 0.1 MPa (1.0 kgf/cm2) and increases with increasing speed, the oil pressure sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty.
USEFUL ADVICE If you do not have a pressure gauge, all that remains is to check the reliability of the contact in the block with the sensor wires or replace the oil pressure sensor with a known good one.
If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the emergency oil pressure drop lamp is on), diagnose and repair the engine (see Section 5 “Engine”).
WARNING Do not attempt to drive to the garage; the engine will be damaged. Tow the vehicle with the engine not running for repairs.
What to do if the oil pressure sensor lights up on any hot engine: initial diagnosis
Oil emulsion level
It doesn’t matter whether the oil pressure light is on at idle or at rpm, the first step is to check the oil level in the crankcase. Its deficiency can cause reduced pressure in the oil system, and the sensor records exactly this. This suggests that lubrication starvation is experienced by such important components as:
- Crankshaft bearings.
- Supports for the camshaft and turbocharger rotor.
- Hydraulic compensators.
- Phase regulators.
- Hydraulic belt tensioners.
There is no need to delay refilling. Critical wear and jamming of shafts can occur quickly, and the amount of repair costs will unpleasantly surprise you.
Electrical connections
The level is fine or has been restored, but the oiler is still on - a reason to inspect the functionality of the sensor. But first the wiring. Diagnostics is simple - remove the terminal from the sensor, the lamp on the tidy should go out. If it blinks or lights up, we perform an additional test:
- Select a long piece of single-core wire.
- Remove the supply block of the oil pressure meter.
- Connect the “plus” of the battery and the wire suitable for the sensor.
After the actions have been performed, the icon blinks/is lit, there are definitely questions about the condition of the wiring. It is quite possible that one of the wires has frayed. The indicator goes out - let's move on.
Priora oil pressure blinking
You need to measure the oil pressure. It seems to be low. Stop driving the car until you find out the cause and eliminate it.
Added after 3 minutes By the way, what kind of oil did you fill in, what is the viscosity? Might try changing the oil and oil filter just in case...
Thank you! But the problem is solved, I installed a new sensor, now everything is perfect! By the way, why was it that when I filled in half-blue oil for 900 rubles there was a knock when it was cold, but now I filled in a cheap one for 350 rubles and everything was fine? What a ?
Added after 52 seconds Mileage 140 thousand
Let me share, after washing the engine the oiler blinked at idle and when hot. It even happened a couple of times that the oiler didn’t light up when idling when it was hot, but if I turned it off and started it up, the new sensor solved the problem and it seems that the engine temperature sensor on the dash began to overestimate, because I replaced the one that goes to the ECM, the readings are in Opendiag and on the dash They start to diverge just after 90 degrees, let's see what happens after replacing the sensor.
I won't wash the engine anymore))
Again everyone, Tryam. I'll combine it into one post:
Hello everyone. Such a problem: when the engine warms up to 95 degrees, the oil pressure drops to 0.05-0.06 MPa. 1 - Replaced the oil and filter - did not help 2 - Replaced the oil pump and the main and connecting rod bearings, except for the outer ones. The blood pressure did not rise at all. Please advise something. Added after 19 minutes, I can’t find where to edit the post. Forgot to write: XX revolutions. When cold it is 0.4 MPa and falls smoothly as it warms up. if you raise the speed to 1000, the lamp already goes out, accordingly the pressure is about 0.07-0.08 MPa
Well, I removed the pan 2 times and forgot to look for them (injectors) both times. In general, the principle of their operation, where can I look?
Added after 48 seconds I changed the ring on the oil receiver for the first time, but it was generally clean
Added after 2 minutes just found it from the forum
“In fact, a faulty nozzle (whether jammed or leaky) will only affect the quality of piston cooling.”
Added after 28 seconds and there is no pressure at all, can’t one injector poison like that?
I forgot to write my mileage is 125,500, I’m still leaning towards camshafts, tomorrow an autopsy will show, I hope not the cylinder head. It looks like it ended up on the cylinder head assembly. There are jambs on the shaft journals. And on the beds. On the other hand, failure of camshafts may not be a cause but a consequence of oil starvation. Who thinks what? While we exclude the injectors, it’s hard to believe that they can release 1.5 kg of pressure.
I finally found a jamb nozzle. 1.2 cylinders – 1.4 kgf, 3rd – 0.7, 4th – 1.8. It was blowing with a compressor. I ordered it on Monday through the online store, today they wrote back that it would arrive as early as 06/02. Ppts
Does anyone know where in Novosibirsk you can buy them? Where it was, no one knows what it is and it’s not available. I've been without a car for a month now, and I still need to pack it up.
The epic with the long-awaited – literally, injectors – is over. So far done:
– Immediately change the oil and filter with semi-blue 10w40 Mobil1 – replace the ring on the oil receiver – replace the connecting rod and main bearings nominal – replace the oil pump assembly
Next, disassemble the entire engine, replace the injectors with new ones, and replace the seals, obviously. I myself measured the crankshaft journals with micrometers and found no crime. I took it to the workshop, they seemed to measure it - dimensions in nominal tolerances = new crankshaft.
Replacement of the cylinder head assembly with a new one + new gasket.
I put everything back together again, changed the oil and filter again, I took the oil in a half-blue tin can, whatever it was, I took this Kixx 10w40.
Started it up, waited for the fan to set to 95+ degrees. Pressure 0.9-1 kg
I am dissatisfied with the result; a lot of money and effort combined with nerves.
Added after 1 hour 4 minutes Forgot to write :) I'm waiting for advice.
A couple of weeks ago, exactly the same symptoms appeared (((I checked the oil level. It’s normal. This weekend I plan to start looking for the source of the problem.
First try changing the sensor.
First try changing the sensor.
I'll buy a sensor and change it.
Fur. A pressure gauge would be a better place to start.
Any mechanical pressure gauge or is there a special one for oil? I will buy it tomorrow in Ryazan. Afinogen Polyugaev, I would also be grateful for advice on WHERE it is better to buy
