Gazelle starts and immediately stalls

The operation of a vehicle depends entirely on the performance of its components and parts. If one of the elements fails, the car stops functioning normally. With scheduled maintenance, it is possible to eliminate all impending breakdowns of the vehicle. However, it also happens that a part’s breakdown can occur suddenly. It happens that the car starts, then stalls. In many situations, it is not possible to start a vehicle behind you and you have to turn to the services of a tow truck. What to do in this case and how to fix the problem? Let's consider.

Stalls at idle

The reasons for stopping the power unit at idle may be:

Malfunction of the XX regulator. You can check the functionality of the XX sensor in the following way: try to start the car and press the gas pedal while cranking the starter. As soon as the engine starts, you should release the pedal and look at the speed; if it fluctuates, the problem lies precisely in the XX sensor.
In other cases, when your VAZ (injector) starts and stalls, the problem lies in a malfunction of the throttle valve. This part should be washed.
Sometimes flushing does not fix the problem. In this case, the reason lies in the throttle position sensor. To solve the problem, you will have to replace the sensor.

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Comments 60

And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(

remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!

So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?

according to IAC - everything depends on the ECU firmware! DPRV - question to the manufacturer DMRV - it is still a sensor and it also has brains!

filter, there’s nothing else, and maybe a fuel filter, but then it won’t work

I changed the filter, the old one was spinning the same way, they blamed it, but it didn’t turn out that way...

Guys, I’m sorry that it’s not much on topic, but I hope that there’s nothing wrong with it, on the contrary, at idle it works for me, when I press the gas pedal, it feels like there’s either not enough fuel, or it’s terribly overflowing, periodically this overflow or The lack of fuel disappears and the car drives quite normally. What could be, where to go? Thanks for understanding. Machine 3102 with ZMZ 406.

I had this happen because of the injectors.

Do you think it's worth cleaning? Or should I change it anyway?

Cleaning didn't help me, I changed it

Thank you. I'll try to clean it tomorrow

I agree with what was said above on my own - after replacing the filters, if that doesn’t help, try to measure the pressure of the fuel line. 1 the pressure of the pump without a fine filter (in front of the ramp) should be at least 4.5 kgcm 2 at idle, the pressure in the rail should be at least 2.5 kgcm3 most likely The check valve on the fuel rail failed, I replaced about a dozen at one time until I found an old model - a dismountable one - all the problems with idle were gone, good luck

really? because if I give it gas, everything is perfect, it doesn’t hold idle even for 5 seconds, it stalls...

It was due to a clogged filter in the tank (pyramid)

if the fuel pump makes a lot of noise, it means it will soon grunt, I had this happen, you can last a month on this, but apparently it needs a replacement

During the operation of a car, a common situation is that after turning the ignition key, the car starts, the engine starts to work and stalls after a few seconds. As a rule, 3-5 seconds pass from the moment of starting to stopping the internal combustion engine. Before the engine stops completely, engine vibrations are also noticeable, the power unit shakes and operates very unstable.

This happens as a result of a decrease in speed, the resonance effect of a rotating crankshaft, etc. When you try to start the engine again, the engine may no longer start, or the situation described above may repeat again.

The reasons for this problem vary. The main thing is that if the car starts and stalls, this indicates that in-depth diagnostics are needed. Next we will talk about what to do in such a situation, as well as how to find the reason why the engine stalls after starting.

Read in this article

Why does the engine stall?

It starts, then while driving, then immediately stalls, the engine for a number of reasons:

Poor fuel quality. The problem can be resolved by replacing the fuel filter.
The spark plugs are clogged (large carbon deposits). The solution is to replace or calcinate the spark plugs.
Clogged fuel cell. It's worth replacing.
Air filter malfunction. The engine stalls due to insufficient oxygen supply, which leads to poor combustion of the working mixture.
Generator failure or battery failure.
Failure of the main sensors of the car.

Failure Traits

If the engine malfunctions, the following characteristic features will occur:

The car stalls when you turn on devices or other equipment powered by the on-board network.
The operation of the BC is disrupted due to voltage surges.
When a load is applied, the engine stops immediately.
You can hear the sounds of the alternator belt spinning.
If the operation of the generator is disrupted, then as the speed increases, the headlights begin to burn better and brighter.

Sometimes these problems are not related to the malfunction of the generator, but to other problems of the car.

Fuel sensor failure

Gasoline float sensors are considered not the most reliable in operation. Low reliability is also caused by the poor quality of the fuel used and the climatic conditions. As a result, due to two unpleasant moments, the sensor fails. If the car owner fills up with one specific amount of fuel each time, the sensor will quickly fail. A broken mechanism will not allow you to keep track of the end of the fuel in the tank in time, and if at the last moment there was enough fuel to start the engine, then a stop will occur, since there is not enough fuel for operation. If there are problems with the amount of gasoline, as a rule, it will not be possible to start the engine subsequent times.

Common Causes

The Gazelle 405 injector does not start for various reasons. There could be a hundred of them, or even more, since there are simply unrealistically many details. However, injectors and spark plugs

. If the latter can be bought at any auto parts store, and even a less experienced driver can replace them, then problems may arise with the former.

The fact is that it is very difficult to determine that in such a situation in the Gazelle 405 it was the injectors that broke

They are often the last thing thought of.

, so a lot of time is lost diagnosing the breakdown. But there is another option - problems with the injector. Fortunately, it doesn’t always need to be repaired; sometimes all you need to do is wash the part and the car will start. In any case, you will be very lucky if the breakdown is not serious, since the Gazelle 405 can take forever to repair and still not understand the reasons for the breakdown.

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Fuel system malfunction

In addition to a clogged grid, there are other options for malfunctioning of the fuel system, which affect the starting and operation of the engine. The driver can fix all of the following operational problems on his own or by contacting a service center:

The fuel pump burned out - the engine started and immediately died.
The injectors became clogged, which led to an insufficient amount of fuel and lubricants.
Fuel lines are clogged due to low-quality gasoline.
There was a malfunction in the on-board computer, which turned off the fuel pump.

Drivers of regularly maintained vehicles rarely encounter the listed fuel system malfunctions. If the car does not start well and stalls, then the problem should be diagnosed by checking the fuel system.

The engine chokes when you press the gas pedal

A fairly common situation during the operation of a vehicle is when failures occur when pressing the gas pedal, the engine stalls when over-accelerating, the power unit does not pick up speed, choke, etc.

Let's start with the fact that there can be many possible reasons for this type of malfunction. In the process of initial diagnosis, an important condition is the observation of characteristic symptoms, which allows you to more accurately and quickly determine the malfunction. Next, we will look at why the engine stalls when you press the gas pedal, as well as in what cases the engine stalls when you press the gas.

The engine stalls when you press the gas: possible reasons

As already mentioned, certain signs allow you to localize the existing problem. For example, if the engine stalls when “cold” after pressing the gas pedal only when the humidity outside is high, moisture may well be the cause.

The problem is that water particles can accumulate on the distributor cap. Such accumulations of moisture settle on the inner surface of the lid in the form of condensation. Let us add that on some cars the cover is shaped in such a way that allows current to pass through the distributor, that is, the discharge is simply not supplied to the spark plugs. At the same time, at idle, the internal combustion engine operates normally, but when you press the gas, the problem manifests itself. This is explained by the fact that the distributor, at the moment of gas supply, begins to operate in an accelerated mode, passing a larger amount of electricity. Taking into account the fact that moisture has accumulated in the distributor housing, a malfunction immediately occurs and the engine choke, as a weak spark is formed at the spark plugs. To check, it is enough to observe whether such a failure is present on a warm engine, and also whether the malfunction appears when it is dry outside. You can also put the car in a heated garage or parking lot for several hours, and then evaluate the stability of the internal combustion engine after starting and at the moment you press the gas.
Another reason why the unit may choke is that there is no vacuum in the fuel system. In other words, air leakage occurs, which affects the fuel pressure and the composition of the fuel-air mixture. Usually the problem progresses gradually and can occur on both a cold and hot engine. The fact is that in order to accurately determine the amount of fuel supplied at a specific point in time, the vacuum in the fuel system plays an important role.

Engine stalls when switching to gas

The presence of gas equipment in a car, along with certain advantages, can cause a number of inconveniences to the driver. One of the common problems is that the engine stalls when switching from gasoline to gas. The problem can manifest itself in different ways. In the first case, the unit stalls immediately, that is, at the moment of transition; in the second, the engine choke after the driver presses the accelerator after the transition, that is, when the engine is already running on gas in idle mode.

The reason is that a cold reducer does not evaporate the supplied gas in the required volume. Please note that we should not exclude the fact that the degree of heating of the gearbox depends on the characteristics of its connection (to the manifold, to the heater hoses, etc.), as well as on the level of coolant in the system. Let us add that another common cause may be the gas injectors themselves. In some cases they need to be cleaned, in others it is better to replace them with more efficient ones.

What's the result?

If the engine choke when you press the gas, you should start by checking the spark plugs. Very often, a problem with an engine is solved by simply installing new spark plugs. Please note that when the check light comes on on the dashboard, this is the basis for computer diagnostics of the engine. The specified diagnostics in many cases allows you to narrow down the scope of troubleshooting as much as possible and quickly eliminate the breakdown.

The valves are malfunctioning

When the engine starts and stalls, the cause of the breakdown is hidden in the operation of the valves (this applies to the gasoline model of the engine). Diesel options are characterized by a decrease in fuel pressure. For repairs, you should contact a service station, where they will carry out appropriate diagnostics and adjust the valves and adjust the operation of the timing belt.

Problems most often can be:

Unadjusted valves and uneven clearances do not allow the engine to operate stably.
Valve deformation. Replacement with subsequent adjustment of the timing will be required.
Overcooling of the power plant, which prevents normal warming up at startup.
Diesel fuel is frozen in the pipes.

Carburetor problem

A situation occurs when the car is well warmed up, but the engine stops on its own. Most likely this is a carburetor malfunction. This is due to the fact that during its operation a large amount of air passes through this device, some of which allows it to be cooled in a timely manner. Together with the carburetor, the fuel cools and passes through the device. The result is that the carburetor temperature is significantly lower than the engine temperature.

The engine starts and stalls: troubleshooting

So, if a similar problem appears, then it is necessary to take into account a number of features. First of all, the operation of the internal combustion engine after startup will be influenced by the following factors:

fuel supply;
air supply;
spark on spark plugs (for gasoline internal combustion engines);
correct operation of glow plugs (for diesel engines);
proper operation of the ECM and electronic sensors;

With that said, you should first start by checking the main possible causes:

Quite often, malfunctions in the operation of the alarm system and the anti-theft system can cause the engine to fail to operate after starting. In other words, the immobilizer does not turn off and continues to block the start of the internal combustion engine, which is its main function to prevent vehicle theft. If the alarm blocks the engine, then you need to check the operation of all elements, try to reset the error, turn off the anti-theft system, etc.
Problems with the IAC and idle air valve often arise due to contamination of these elements. You should also pay attention to the cleanliness of the throttle valve. As for the crankshaft sensor, incorrect data that it transmits to the ECU can cause the engine to stall immediately after starting.
Poor quality fuels and lubricants can also cause problems. As a rule, problems begin in cases where low-grade fuel was filled or the engine uses motor oil that does not meet the recommendations/has lost its properties.
A faulty fuel pump, air leaks in the fuel line, the formation of air pockets and dirty fuel filters do not allow creating the required pressure in the power system or supplying fuel in the required volume.
The air filter and its contamination leads to the fact that the working mixture is significantly over-rich. In other words, the engine does not have enough air to burn fuel, and the spark plugs flood.
Problems with ECM sensors (EGR sensor, oxygen sensor, DPKV, etc.) can lead to both unstable engine operation at idle and a complete engine stop after starting.