We study the signs of a fuel pump failure if it does not pump fuel

Buying a fourteenth fret is a young thing that does not require a large budget, both for the car itself and for spare parts. If you compare the VAZ 2114 with any foreign car of the same class, you will get a decent price difference in favor of the Lada. And even if a foreign car costs more, and servicing it is not more expensive than a Lada, then spare parts from the Russian automobile industry will be much easier to find in any of the most remote areas of our country. Whatever you say, any car wears out and requires attention and care. So let's talk about a common problem with the fourteenth - the fuel pump does not pump.

Gasoline pump VAZ 2114

Situation

You're driving, and suddenly you stall. You start it, the engine growls, the starter turns, it starts moving and again there is a stupor. Or the ignition does not respond at all, you have to push it to start. This also includes the case when the engine responds every once in a while if you slow down for a couple of minutes and go to nitral. The battery is ok. We're sinning at the fuel pump.

OPERATING PRINCIPLE AND DESIGN FEATURES

The VAZ 2114 fuel pump is located inside the car’s gas tank, which is why access to it can be problematic if you don’t know which side to approach. To free up access to the fuel pump, you need to remove the rear seat from the fourteenth, under which you will find a rectangular hatch hiding access to the fuel module.


Just recline the back seat and see for yourself

In addition to the pump itself, the VAZ 2114 fuel module includes:

  • A float sensor that monitors the fuel level in the gas tank;
  • Chamber for fuel intake;
  • Mesh filter for coarse cleaning.

The gasoline pump has a built-in electric motor, which pumps up the pressure of the pumped fuel. The motor itself is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The VAZ 2114 gasoline pump is located so that even with a minimum level of fuel in the tank, it is constantly washed with gasoline, as this is necessary for normal cooling of the unit, which gets very hot during operation.

The main working element of a gasoline pump is a membrane, which during operation performs reciprocating movements. During normal operation, when the device is fully operational, the following pressure levels must be maintained in the fuel rail:

  • For 1.5 l engine. – from 285 to 326 kPa;
  • For 1.6 liter engine. – from 375 to 390 kPa.

As evidenced by reviews from owners of fourteenth VAZs, in practice BOSCH pumps have proven themselves to be the best.

Unlike domestically produced units, they cost almost 20-30% more, but at the same time they have an order of magnitude better build quality and reliability. The estimated cost of the fuel module for a 1.5 liter engine of the fourteenth is 2.5 thousand rubles, for 1.6 liters. – 2.6 thousand

However, rational savings are possible here - in most cases it makes sense to purchase a fuel pump separately, rather than the entire module, since, as a rule, the pump itself “dies”, and the remaining parts of the module remain in working order. Its cost, if taken separately, is 1-1.5 tr.

SIGNS OF PETROL PUMP FAILURE

A faulty fuel pump is quite easy to identify, since it is characterized by characteristic signs of failure. For example: while driving, the car suddenly stalls - after turning it on again, the engine begins to make uncharacteristic sounds, while the starter does not stop turning. After the car starts up, the picture repeats itself - the fourteenth engine stalls again. It is also possible that the car starts every once in a while - problems usually arise after sitting at neutral speed.

Let's determine the most typical signs of a fuel pump malfunction:

  • The engine refuses to start. Of course, there can be many reasons for this problem - the same spark plugs, or the ECU, but the possibility of a fuel pump malfunction is also worth taking into account;
  • The pressure level in the fuel relay differs from normal values;
  • The motor is tripping. As a rule, if the fuel pump does not pump as it should, the engine begins to twitch quite noticeably because gasoline is not burned properly in the working cylinders;
  • The engine growls at low speeds. One of the most truthful signs, which indicates either an immediate breakdown of the pump, or that the low-purity filter is clogged and the mesh needs to be replaced.

There are quite a lot of possible breakdowns that could cause the fuel pump to fail. The following parts of the unit design can present an unexpected surprise: fuse, fuel pump relay, ground, electric motor, contact system. Let's look at each of them separately.

Popular breakdowns

Problems with the fuel pump can occur for several reasons. Therefore, your first priority is to determine the source of the problem. These may be:

  • Fuel pump fuse;
  • Fuel pump relay;
  • Pump weight;
  • Motor;
  • Contacts;
  • The pump itself.

If one of these elements fails, it can stop the normal functionality of the entire module.

Let us consider the situations with each of the specified elements of the fuel module in more detail.

Pressure

What exactly is a fuel pump? This is an element of the fuel system that allows fuel to pass through due to pressure. Therefore, if you take pressure measurements, you can get answers to many questions.

Let's give an example of normal pressure readings when checking in certain modes.

Check mode

Normal indicator

At idle

Without pressure regulator tube

When the drain is pinched

When you press the gas pedal

We recommend measuring with a small range of atmospheres on a pressure gauge (up to 7 atm). This will reduce errors to a minimum. Having a pressure gauge at hand will allow you to significantly save on professional diagnostics.

Contacts

The fuel pump includes three wiring:

  • Plus (positive);
  • Minus (negative);
  • Fuel level indicator.

So, failure of the pump may occur due to a simple violation of the integrity of the wires. So if the pressure check shows normal, then we definitely examine the condition of the wiring.

To check, you will need a 12V lamp, which is attached to the external connectors of the pump with positive and negative contacts. Turn the ignition key. If the lamp blinks, contact is present. In this case, you will have to check the condition of the internal contacts.


Checking contacts

Motor

If the pressure and wiring are normal, let's try to check the serviceability of the motor. It is this element that is responsible for moving fuel through the system.

  • To check it, you will need the same 12V lamp;
  • Attach it to any motor terminal;
  • Turn the ignition key;
  • If the lamp blinks, you will have to get rid of the motor and buy a new one.


Motor
Don't make hasty conclusions. Before checking, look at the condition of the terminals and motor wiring.

Fuel pump weight

The contacts are fine, but the fuel level sensor may provide incorrect information. In this case, you definitely need to check the weight of the pump responsible for dispersing the fuel.

PRESSURE LEVEL

In order to get most of the picture of what is happening, it is enough to measure the pressure in the fuel rail. For this, it is necessary to use a pressure gauge that has a small measurement range (preferably up to 7 atmospheres), since devices with a large range can produce significant inaccuracies.


Rail pressure measurement

Under the hood of the fourteenth there is a pressure fitting; unscrew its cap and connect the pressure gauge to it. Normal indicators should be as follows:

  1. When the engine is idling – 2.5 kPa;
  2. At the moment of ignition - 3 kPa;
  3. With a pinched drain hose – 7 kPa;
  4. When gaining speed - 2.5-3 kPa.

If the pressure gauge needle does not move when the ignition is turned on, then the gasoline pressure regulator is most likely broken. When there is no change as the speed increases, the fuel pump itself has failed, but if the needle moves very slowly, which indicates that the pump is pumping, but poorly, the fuel pump screen is clogged.

Using a pressure gauge

If in the event of a malfunction with the electrical supply of the fuel pump, everything is clear - either it works or not, then mechanical wear is more difficult to determine. There are several techniques for this.

You can estimate the fuel pressure if you unscrew the fuel rail plug and drain gasoline from the spool. There should be a powerful jet. Next, we unscrew the spool itself and connect a pressure gauge, preferably a fuel one, but you can also use one that measures the air pressure in the tires. Turn on the ignition and see how much the pump has pumped. It must be at least 280 kPa, on some models 380 - 400 kPa. To make it clearer, this is 3.8 - 4 kgf/cm2.

CHECKING WIRING CONTACTS

If the fuel pump does not work, do not rush to change it - perhaps the problem is in poor-quality wiring. There are 3 wires connected to the pump: to the gasoline level sensor, and positive and negative to power the motor.

No special tools are required to check the wiring - a regular 12-volt light bulb is enough. We connect the light bulb to the negative and positive wires of the pump, and turn on the car’s ignition - if the light blinks, then everything is fine with the wiring.

GROUND AND FUEL PUMP RELAY

In the fourteenth, the mass of the fuel pump is fixed under the dashboard, next to the handbrake lever, during use of which the mass can be touched and shifted from its normal position. To fix this, remove the plastic around the handbrake, clean the ground contacts and reattach it.

Next to the ground there is a VAZ 2114 fuel pump relay. The relay is necessary so that during ignition the required pressure level is immediately created in the system.

A few words about where the fuel pump relay is located: after removing the plastic around the handbrake, you will immediately find 3 different relays - one of them is from the fuel pump.

It is better to immediately replace a broken relay with a new one; it is not expensive.

Where is the mass of the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114?

Car owners drew attention to the fact that the mass is the “weak link” in the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. Unreliable fastening of the wires to ground causes the wire to heat up and burn out. The self-tapping screw on which the ground wire is attached must be unscrewed, cleaned and tightened again.


The mass of the fuel pump is located near the parking brake, nicknamed the handbrake by car owners. To get to it, you need to move the carpet a little to the side.

CHECKING THE FUSE

First, let's figure out where the VAZ 2114 fuel pump fuse is located: you can find it under the hood, on the windshield side. There is a drawer on the electronic control unit that needs to be opened. In the box we need a fuse that says Fuel Pump 15A above it. If the fuse for the VAZ 2114 fuel pump is blown, you need to install a new one.

The fuse blows due to incorrectly connected alarm contacts or the anti-theft system.

Missing plus

The main reasons for the lack of a plus may be:

  • Fuse or relay faulty. How to check was described above. If these parts fail, it is enough to simply replace them;
  • Contacts are oxidized or damaged. You can see this with the naked eye. After cleaning from contaminants, the fuel pump should start working;
  • Broken wiring. It is necessary to find the location of the break and eliminate it;
  • The engine control unit blocks the fuel pump. There may be various errors on the on-board computer or during diagnostics with a scanner, as well as other symptoms of incorrect operation;
  • The car alarm is not working properly and blocks the pump.

Most problems are easy to detect and fix yourself. But the last two require the intervention of a competent auto electrician. DIY repairs will only make the problem worse.

Source

CHANGING THE PETROL PUMP WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

If the fuel pump in the VAZ does not pump, and all of the above system components are normal, it is necessary to clean the filters, and, if necessary, completely replace the unit.

Before starting work, you must completely drain the fuel from the gas tank. To do everything with our own hands, we need a screwdriver and a set of keys. Replacing the VAZ 2114 fuel pump is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  1. We de-energize the car by removing the “-” terminal from the battery;
  2. We take out the rear row of passenger seats;
  3. Unscrew the plastic cap that covers the pump;
  4. Remove the power wires from the device and disconnect the fuel supply hoses;
  5. We dismantle the main fastenings of the fuel pump; for this we need the 7th key;
  6. Now you can remove the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114 and remove the device.

It must be removed carefully, since the float sensor for determining the fuel level is a very delicate structure that is easy to damage . Inspect the fuel pump - if necessary, clean or replace the strainer, however, it may be necessary to completely replace the unit.

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