Fuel tank for VAZ 2110: do-it-yourself repair and replacement

Features of repairing a gas tank for an injection VAZ 2110

The VAZ 2110 car is a small class sedan that is still produced at various factories in several countries around the world. This model is one of the first to have an injector system under the hood. The injection system made it possible to achieve a high maximum speed with a small engine volume and low consumption. The start of serial production of this particular model paved the line between the classic Zhiguli and the new generation of cars from AVTOVAZ.

Gas tank “tens”

The VAZ 2110 injector has a 43-liter gas tank, which is quite enough for long trips. The fuel tank is made of good metal, which can be welded perfectly if something happens. However, the fact is that in the classic series the tank was located in the trunk, and although it occupied a certain place there, it did not succumb to corrosion and other environmental influences. Starting with the 08 model, they decided to place the gas tank in the rear of the car under the bottom. This added aesthetics and space to the trunk, however, the tank now directly interacted with the environment. In addition, if you move when fully loaded, you can mechanically damage the tank, for example, by jumping into a hole and hitting it on the asphalt.

Removing the tank

If it so happens that the injector on your VAZ 2110 is rotten (considering what services sprinkle on the roads in winter, this is no wonder) or was punctured, then you need to start repairs by removing the gas tank correctly. For this we will need a set of tools and an inspection hole or overpass. Next, all the work is analyzed point by point. You can find out where everything is located in the car manual, so we won’t dwell on this.

We disconnect the fuel sensor simply by removing the wires from the connectors.

Fuel tank VAZ 2110

Of course, it is advisable that the tank is completely empty, because you will need to remove it from under the car with outstretched arms, and every liter of gasoline will create an extra burden on you.

Tank repair

First of all, we must assess the condition of the tank, whether it is worth repairing, and whether it is still suitable for repair. It may be much easier and cheaper to just buy a new gas tank. We only consider welding as a repair, since no glue patches will help if the VAZ 2110 injector tank is rotten or completely broken.

First you need to thoroughly rinse the tank and dry it so that there is no gasoline vapor left in it, otherwise there will be an explosion during work. If you do not have experience as a welder, it would be advisable to visit a specialist.

But, if you are familiar with this and have all the tools, then you can cope very quickly. We can only give small recommendations, including the fact that it is necessary to weld the tank only by autogenous welding using argon as a coolant. You need to start and end the seams before and after a few centimeters near the patch. This is necessary so that delamination along the seam does not occur later. In principle, the cooking tank can last as long as the entire machine will last; it will never be any worse because of the presence of a patch.

Important nuances

When replacing the gas tank and the studs on it, we must not forget about several important points:

• Fire safety. Work on the gas tank, as well as on any part of the vehicle’s fuel system, should only be carried out in a well-ventilated area or in the open air. There should be no sources of open fire or flammable materials nearby. And, of course, you should always have a fire extinguisher at hand;

  
  During any work on the VAZ 2110 fuel system, a fire extinguisher must be nearby

• If a car owner is going to change the tank on his car, he needs to try to use up as much gasoline as possible. It's simple: the more gasoline is consumed, the less it will remain in the tank and the easier it will be to remove this tank;
• You can change the studs only on a completely dry gas tank. As mentioned above, it takes at least 3 days to completely dry the tank. And this is a situation in which haste is categorically unacceptable. Even if the tank looks dry, this does not mean that it is. We should not forget about gasoline vapors that may remain in the tank. If this is so, then any accidental spark from the file will lead to the ignition of these vapors and the explosion of the gas tank;
• Before screwing new bolts into the gas tank, it is recommended to treat them with anaerobic sealant. The best option for this is the professional sealant THREADLOCKER, which improves the tightness of the threaded connection and reliably protects it from corrosion.

  
  When screwing new studs into a VAZ 2110 tank, it is recommended to treat them with THREADLOCKER sealant

Replacing the tank is not a very complicated procedure. Even a novice car enthusiast can do it. To successfully complete this operation, he will need not so much repair skills as physical strength: removing a large tank with remaining gasoline from under the car is quite difficult. And if the car owner cannot boast of a strong physique, then at this stage he cannot do without an assistant.

Removing the fuel tank VAZ 2110 2111 2112

It is more convenient to carry out work with an empty tank. We install the car on an inspection ditch or a lift. We disconnect the pipelines and the electrical connector from the electric fuel pump (see “Removing the electric fuel pump with a fuel level sensor”).

We move the steering knuckle with the stand to the side and remove the drive from the hub. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts of the clamping bands.

We hook the clamping bands to the rear axle beam and lower the tank onto them.

Loosen the clamps of the tank ventilation hose.

. and the inlet pipe hose.

We remove one hose.

Loosen the separator hose clamp.

. and remove the hose, holding the metal tube so as not to bend it.

Unhook the tapes and remove the tank. Install the tank in reverse order. After starting the engine, check the tightness of the connections.

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Prevention measures

Finally, I will give you some simple but useful tips that will help prevent such a phenomenon as the accumulation of water in the fuel tank of your car.

There is nothing complicated here. Just follow these guidelines:

That's all. The only thing I would like to add is regarding situations when the water freezes. That is, it turns into a piece of ice that is in the tank.

Operating a car with ice in the tank can really and quickly render the entire fuel system unusable, cause engine failure, etc. The best solution here would be to drive the car into a warm garage. If you have time, just leave the car warm for a couple of days. If you are in a hurry, you will have to remove the tank, blow a stream of warm air inside, dry it and put it back in place.

The problem of water getting into the gas tank is familiar to a large number of motorists. But now you know what to do in such a situation, what to do and what methods you can use.

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Repair of VAZ 2110 (Lada) Replacement of the fuel tank

1. Repair manuals
2. Repair manual for VAZ 2110 (Lada) 1996+.
3. Replacing the fuel tank

2.17.1.5. Replacing the fuel tank

If the fuel pump screen frequently becomes clogged, the tank should be removed and washed.

If a leak is detected along the junction line of the upper and lower parts of the tank, you can solder these places (it is recommended to do this in specialized workshops). To do this, pour out the remaining gasoline, thoroughly rinse and dry the tank. Then seal the leak with soft solder.

You can solder only a thoroughly washed and dried tank that does not contain gasoline vapors, otherwise the vapors may ignite during soldering.

To wash the fuel tank, use detergents: Lobomid, MS or ML. Then, to remove any remaining detergent, rinse and steam the tank with hot water. Dry the tank thoroughly.

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1. General data 1.0 General data 1.1. Vehicle Specifications

2. Engine 2.0 Engine 2.1 Possible engine malfunctions. 2.2 Replacing the coolant 2.3 Replacing the engine oil and oil filter 2.4. Installing the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke 2.5 Replacing the camshaft drive belt and tension roller 2.6 Adjusting the camshaft drive belt tension 2.7 Removing, troubleshooting and installing the flywheel 2.8. Replacing engine seal parts 2.9 Cylinder head 2.10 Grinding in valves 2.11 Adjusting clearances in valve drive 2.12 Removing and installing engine 2.13. Engine repair 2.14. Lubrication system 2.15. Cooling system 2.16. Exhaust gas system 2.18. Features of VAZ-2112 engine repair

3. Transmission 3.0 Transmission 3.1. Clutch 3.2. Gearbox 3.3. Front wheel drives

4. Chassis 4.0 Chassis 4.1. Checking the technical condition of suspension parts on the car 4.2. Rear suspension

5. Steering 5.0 Steering 5.1 Inspection and check of the steering on the car 5.2. Steering column 5.4. Steering mechanism 5.5 Possible steering malfunctions.

6. Brake system 6.0 Brake system 6.1. Vacuum booster 6.2. Main brake cylinder 6.3. Pressure regulator 6.4. Brake hoses and tubes 6.5 Bleeding the brake system 6.6 Replacing brake fluid 6.7. Front wheel brakes 6.8. Braking mechanisms of the rear wheels 6.9. Parking brake 6.10 Possible malfunctions of the brake system.

7. Electrical equipment 7.0 Electrical equipment 7.1. Mounting block 7.2. Generator 7.3. Starter 7.4. Ignition switch (lock) 7.5. Checking and replacing spark plugs 7.6. Integrated engine management system (fuel injection system) 7.7. Contactless ignition system 7.8. Lighting, light and sound signaling 7.9. Windshield wiper 7.10 Replacing the electric motor of the radiator fan of the cooling system 7.11. Heater electric motor 7.12. Cigarette lighter 7.13. Instrument cluster 7.14 Checking the carburetor solenoid valve control unit 7.15 Possible malfunctions of the EPHH control unit. 7.16 Electrical diagram of a VAZ-21102 car 7.17 Electrical diagram of a car with a carburetor engine 2110 7.18 Engine control diagram 2111 (pin M1.5.4) 7.19 Engine control diagram 2111 (pin MP7.0) 7.20 Control diagram for engines 2111 and 2112 (pin M1) .5.4N, "January-5.1")

8. Body 8.0 Body 8.1 Possible body malfunctions. 8.2. Replacing the buffers 8.3 Removing and installing the radiator trim 8.4 Removing and installing the locker 8.5 Removing and installing the wing 8.6. Hood 8.7 Removing and installing upholstery, trim and windshield frame lining 8.8. Trunk lid 8.9. Side doors 8.10 Removing and installing the front seat 8.11 Removing and installing the upper and lower lining of the floor tunnel 8.12. Seat belts 8.13. Rear view mirrors 8.14. Instrument panel 8.15. Heater 8.16 Anti-corrosion compounds for body treatment 8.17. Features of body repair of models 2111 and 2112 8.18. Body care

9. Appendices 9.0 Appendices 9.1 Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids 9.2 Basic data for adjustments and control 9.3 Filling volumes 9.4 Lamps used in the car

Replacing the fuel pump for a VAZ 2107 injector, installing an electric fuel pump and replacing the mesh

Cases when a VAZ 2107 injector fuel pump needs to be replaced are not that frequent, and its service life depends not only on the quality of the gas pump itself, but also on the condition of the gas tank. The reason I had to change it was because a small speck got into it because the filter came off.

Electric fuel pump device

The design of an injection fuel pump is simple and can be divided into two parts:

1. electric motor;
2. water pump.

The most important thing is its structure itself. The electric fuel pump itself is hermetically sealed to protect against fuel ingress. The fuel enters the pump through the filter and the intake hole and is supplied to the power system through the outlet hole (sealed from the electric motor).

Here is a diagram you can find. I would like to note that it does not happen that the motor rotor rotates in liquid and even in gasoline. Firstly, a spark forms on the commutator when the engine is running. You understand that this will lead to a fire. Secondly, rotor rotation in liquid is so difficult that gaining speed and creating pressure is simply out of the question.

Therefore, gasoline passes through the engine through a special channel, and the design of the engine itself is hermetically sealed.

Where is the fuel pump on the VAZ 2107 injector?

On carburetor engines, the fuel pump is installed on the right side of the block and is visually accessible. On the injector, it is located in the gas tank and only the output tubes coming from it are visible, and replacement is somewhat more complicated.

Symptoms for replacement

Signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2107 injector fuel pump appear both when starting the engine and during operation:

• “heavy”, long engine start;
• jerking when moving;
• uneven operation at idle;
• The fuel pump doesn't pump.

Diagnostics

The primary conclusion whether the fuel pump is working or not can be assessed by ear when the ignition is turned on. If you don’t hear a quiet buzzing noise from behind, then you need to check the voltage supply to the gas tank block and then draw a conclusion about its malfunction.

You can check the serviceability of the fuel pump using the MTL-2 pressure gauge; this is the most correct way. You can somewhat roughly estimate the pressure using air pressure gauges to check tire pressure. To do this, screw a rubber hose to the sensor and connect it to the fuel system.

You can do without instruments at all; to do this, unscrew the fuel hose from the filter, place a container and turn on the ignition. In one minute, about 1 liter should be poured into the container.

The pressure of the VAZ 2107 injector fuel pump when the ignition is on should be 4.0 atmospheres, and when the ignition is running 2.8-3.2. In reality, the pump pressure is different and was slightly less, but this may be an error in the pressure gauge.

The carburetor pump is checked by setting the camshaft position by cranking the engine so as to ensure free movement of the pump foot. The hose is unscrewed from the carburetor or filter and the presence of fuel supply is determined by pressing the foot.

How to replace a VAZ injector fuel pump

To replace the fuel pump on an injection vase you will need:

1. key to 10;
2. 2 keys for 17;
3. key to 7;
4. crosshead screwdriver;
5. a simple screwdriver.

I recommend removing the gas tank mount for ease of repair work. To remove the fuel pump you need:

• disconnect the pressure relief pipes in the gas tank;
• Unscrew the main pipelines using 2 17mm wrenches;
• remove the gasket from the gas tank neck;
• unscrew the tank mount;
• move the tank to the side;
• remove the power and fuel level block;
• unscrew the fuel pump flange;
• remove the fuel pump filter;
• remove the tube from the pump after heating it;
• We take out the old pump and install a new one.

When installing the filter, do not hesitate to give it a good tap, otherwise it may fall off like mine. The fuel pump mesh on the VAZ injector is replaced if the old one is dirty or torn. Its replacement is carried out in the same way. Usually it is sold complete with a fuel pump; if not, you will have to buy it, the price is 25 rubles.

Reassemble in reverse order. We heat the hose again in boiling water; if the mounting location of the old electric fuel pump does not allow the part to be properly secured, then we cut it off.

Check the integrity of the gasket between the flange and the gas tank; if it is torn, there will be a smell of gasoline in the cabin.

Important

When choosing, pay attention to performance and maximum pressure. I had Bosch 0 580 454 456 and replaced it with a close analogue of FR 453-453 from WEBER. Characteristics:

Characteristics:

• OEM part number 21083-1139009-01;
• Installation of VAZ 2108 - 2115;
• Pressure - 580 kPa;
• Productivity - 60 l/min;
• Voltage - 13.5 V.

Consumption per 100 km at a speed of 120 is about 8 liters. Very pleased.

Replacing the fuel pump VAZ 2107 injector video:

How to change the float in the gas tank of a VAZ 2110

Removing and replacing the gas tank.

Replacing the mesh in the fuel pump.

Replacing the float in the gas tank of a VAZ 2110.

In the lowest position (empty tank), the resistance should be 285–385 O.

gas tank VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114.

5.11 Removing the fuel receiver with fuel level sensor VAZ 21213.

VAZ2110 why the ignition coil burns out.

Fuel tank (gas tank) injector VAZ 2110.

2.17.1.5. Replacing the fuel tank.

Fuel hose VAZ 2114.

VAZ 21099 1990-2008 Fuel tank.

VAZ 2109 1987+ Fuel tank.

Power supply system for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 with reverse drainage of part of the fuel.

Replacing the float in the gas tank of a VAZ 2110.

VAZ-2111 engine. Removing the electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor.

VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099. article about removing, installing and troubleshooting the gas tank.

gas tank float Forum.

The contacts on the fuel pump 2110 are heating up.

How to replace a VAZ fuel pump with your own hands?

and, removing the float from the tank hole, remove the electric fuel pump with sensor.

Prying up the rubber gasket and removing it through the neck of the tank.

Replacing the fuel filter on a VAZ 2114 is a step-by-step process.

Fuel system VAZ 2107 injector (photo and video).

Removing the electric fuel pump VAZ-2112-14.

Engine VAZ-21083. Removing the gas receiver with fuel level sensor.

Replacing the Fuel Level Sensor (FLS)

If a leak is detected along the junction line of the upper and lower.

Fuel pump VAZ 2110.

fuel pump mesh, fuel filter for VAZ.

Replacing the float in the gas tank of a VAZ 2110.

diagram of the float in the gas tank.

Tuning the gas tank cap On many foreign-made cars.

Not only the engine, but also the fuel pump is the heart of the car

Do-it-yourself replacement of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump

Based on the name, the concept of a gasoline pump is made up of two components - gasoline and a pump. This refers to the pump that pumps gasoline.

If you compare a car with the human body, the gas pump is the heart; it pumps gasoline, ensuring the vital functions of the entire mechanism. Without this part, the car becomes an ordinary pile of metal, not intended for anything.

As a rule, the gas pump can be located in several places, often it all depends on the model of the car and the brand of the gas pump. Often it, with all its mechanical structure, is located on the side of the fuel tank.

Regarding electric fuel pumps, they are located inside this tank. In addition, certain models may be located in the engine compartment, in other words, on the engine of the car.

Since the fuel pump is considered an important element of the entire vehicle design. Its task is to continuously supply fuel from the gasoline tank to the fuel system of the car itself, providing it with the required pressure.

Gas tank VAZ 2110 injector - photo, description on VAZ-2110.net

Fuel tank VAZ 2110 injector with EBN V-1.6 (made in Tolyatti) photo, price.

Advertisement for the sale of a VAZ 2110 gas tank and fuel pump in the Republic of Bashkortostan.

VAZ 2110 gas tank.

Separately, a gas tank costs RUB 1,000.

Gas tank 2108/2112 injection. (pins D .

Selling fuel tank VAZ 10 family.

Injection gas tank VAZ 2115.

Photo 2. Gas tank VAZ injector 2109 2110 2115 Priora Granta - photographer.

The fuel tank capacity of the Lada 2110 is 43 liters.

Please call with any questions.

Advertisement for the sale of Tank VAZ2110 injector in the Rostov region on Avito.

VAZ 2110 2111 2112 for sale The tank is in excellent condition, removed from a 2002 car.

Advertisement for the sale of petrol tank VAZ 2110.2111.2112 in the Bryansk region on Avit.

Photo of a fuel tank for vases.

Gas tank assembly VAZ 2108-09-10.

Advertisement “Benzabak VAZ 2114-2110-2112-2115” (with photo).

Replacing the carburetor with an injector interior.

Advertisement for the sale of a VAZ 2109 injector gas tank in the Komi Republic on Avito.

Fuel tank (gas tank) injector VAZ 2110.

2.17.1.5. Replacing the fuel tank.

Announcement about the sale of fuel tank VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 injection in Saratovsko.

Advertisement for the sale of a petrol tank for VAZ 2110, 2115, 2105 in the Ivanovo region.

Gas tank VAZ 2115, 2110, 2109 engineer.

. decided to proceed to Stage 3 - Installation of the fuel line and injection.

fuel tank VAZ 2110.

Gas tank /21082, 10, 12, 15/ EURO /thick. hairpin/VAZ.

More details. tank for VAZ 2108 2109 2114 2110 2111 2112.

Where are the purifiers located?

The location of fuel filters on VAZ models depends on the engine. On injection and carburetor systems they are located in different places.

Filter location on carburetor internal combustion engines

On carburetor VAZs, the fuel purifier is located under the hood. It is installed under the brake reservoir (main), secured with 2 clamps.

The filter for carburetor VAZs is located under the brake cylinder

Location of the cleaner on the injector

On a VAZ with an injection system, the FTO is installed under the car, at the rear near the muffler. It is mounted in the form of a cartridge in the fuel line. To inspect or dismantle it, you have to lift the car onto an overpass or pit.

Cleaning the gas tank VAZ 2110 - 2112

Solid fractions are constantly deposited in the gas tank of a car. Some of them simply sink to the bottom, others settle and form a kind of hard crust. Both of them clog first the fuel pump filter, and subsequently the fuel filter, which can adversely affect the operation of the carburetor or injector.

Accordingly, the car will not only begin to become “dull,” but parts will also wear out much faster. There are a large number of ways in which you can determine the level of contamination of a gas tank, but any specialist will tell you that it needs to be cleaned periodically.

At the same time, no liquid will help fully, while removing and cleaning the gas tank will help get rid of plaque and the entry of its fractions into the fuel system. Ideally, this entire procedure for cleaning the VAZ 2110-2112 gas tank should be performed with an assistant, but if he is not there, you will have to “tighten up” a little.

First of all, you need to dismantle the tank itself. To do this, you need to remove the rear seat, unscrew the screws securing the fuel pump cover and remove it. After this, we start the engine so that it selects the remaining gasoline from the fuel system (before this, we turn off the contact group that powers the gas pump itself so that fuel from the tank does not enter the fuel system).

Then disconnect the fuel hoses. Unscrew the bolts securing the pressure ring of the VAZ fuel pump and remove it. Now the fuel pump can be removed and set aside. Further work takes place from the bottom of the car.

Near the fuel filter, you need to remove the air hose clamp and remove the hose. In the same way, disconnect the hose coming from the filler neck and the pipe that collects fuel vapors.

On the side of the fuel supply pipe, on which the fine filter is installed, you need to loosen the bolts of the tight-fitting clamps, and then release the clamps themselves. It is now that an assistant will come in handy - he will help support the tank during the following steps.

After the clamps are released, make sure that the gas tank is not connected to any fitting or hose. Now it can be removed. To do this, you need to move the tank towards the pipe that connects the resonator and the muffler, tilt it and bring it under the brake hoses. Then remove the gas tank from behind the exhaust system pipes and remove it.

First of all, you should remove the remaining gasoline and particles that did not have time to settle at the bottom. To do this, you can simply rinse the tank with any detergent, even dishwashing detergent.

After this, it is best to plug all the holes with available materials (rubber plugs, rags, improvised plugs) and pour one of the special tank cleaning products inside (the gas tank should be in the same position as it is on the car).

The liquid needs some time to “acidify,” but you can speed up the process in an old-fashioned way: you can pour a large number of foreign metal objects, such as nuts, bolts, washers, small pieces of fittings, etc. into the tank. After this, shake the gas tank well for at least half an hour.

This way, most of the plaque will simply be erased. Then drain the “spent” suspension, shake out the remaining “working material” and rinse the tank. It is better to wash with gasoline.

After the gas tank is washed, it is best to blow it out with a compressor - a powerful air flow will remove all settled microparticles. If this is not possible, then you can wash it several times, letting it dry completely.

Of course, this process may take 2-3 days, but the result will be obvious - the service life of the fine fuel filter will increase significantly, and the car will respond better to pressing the gas pedal.

After the gas tank is cleaned, it must be installed in the reverse order of dismantling. It is advisable to replace the hose and pipe clamps with new ones, so as not to look under the bottom again.

You should pay attention to the fact that the fitting clamps of the gas tank itself are not the same, so they must be installed in strict accordance with the seats.

Flushing a VAZ gas tank yourself, of course, is a labor-intensive process. But this procedure will help you not only save on the services of specialists and spare parts, such as fuel filters, fuel pump mesh, fuel system hoses, but also significantly improve ride quality.

The fuel tank of any car is a container in which fuel is stored. The tank must ensure safe storage, since fuel belongs to the category of flammable substances that are dangerous to human health and life. If we talk about the VAZ 2110 car, then the gas tank on this model does not always stand the test of time and driving. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the tank in the car, since not only the possibility of operation, but also the life of the driver and passengers depends on it.

Replacing the filler neck (gas tank pipe)

In my practice, there were many cases when, when removing the gas tank on a VAZ 2110, I had to cut off the hose or even the filler neck, since everything was stuck so tightly that it was simply impossible to do otherwise. If for some reason you have damaged the gas tank filler pipe, then the article below will show you the process of replacing this part with a new one.

Tools you will need to complete this job:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Head for 8 mm, 10 and 13 mm
• Ratchet handles
• Extension Cords
• Penetrating lubricant
• Flat blade screwdriver

Removing and installing the tank filler neck on a VAZ 2110

So, the first thing you need to do is remove the rear right wheel and first jack up the car to make it easier to carry out all the repairs. After this, unscrew the clamp bolt that secures the hose and pipe.

Now we go up a little higher and unscrew the neck fastening nut using a 13 mm wrench. This is clearly shown in the photo below.

And another clamp is located above. There you will need a key for 10.

And remove the clamp, putting it aside so as not to lose it. Next, open the gas tank flap and remove the rubber casing.

And now you can carefully move the filling pipe down to bring it to a more convenient position.

And now all that remains is to disconnect the hose from the top of the pipe, which is shown in the photo. We loosen the clamp that tightens this thin hose.

And after trying a little, we remove the hose from the tube:

Now the neck is almost completely freed, and all that remains is to disconnect it from the hose from below, the clamp of which we unscrewed at the very beginning.

After which we remove it without any problems. The end result is shown in the photo below.

The price of a new neck (filler pipe) of a gas tank on a VAZ 2110 is about 1000 rubles, but the same version can be bought at a disassembly site for half the price. Installation occurs in reverse order.

This is interesting: How to find a current leak in a car

How the gas tank works on a VAZ 2110

Cars of the VAZ 2110 family are small class sedans. They are still produced today, as they have good performance characteristics coupled with low cost.

The design of the VAZ 2110 includes a gas tank that holds 43 liters of fuel. This volume is quite enough for a trip with a range of 500–600 kilometers. On the VAZ 2110, the tank is made of high-quality metal, due to which damage and rotting of the body occurs quite rarely.

The gas tank itself is located under the bottom of the car, although previously on all VAZs it was located in the trunk. This design move created certain convenience for the driver, as a significant amount of space in the luggage compartment was freed up, however, due to dirt and stone impacts, the gas tank body became more subject to wear.

The tanks are made of durable metal alloys, which ensures the tanks have a long service life

The fuel tank on the VAZ 2110 consists of two stamped halves, carefully welded together. The tank includes:

the container itself for storing gasoline;

filler neck - a pipe through which fuel enters the tank;

rubber filling hose;

neck plug and hatch;

a fuel pump that is built into the cavity of the tank.

What could be the reason for repairing a gas tank?

For cars of the tenth VAZ family, several factors may serve as reasons for repairing the fuel tank:

aging of the metal - over the course of long-term use, any product begins to perform its functions worse;

mechanical damage - dents and cracks can occur on the gas tank body from impacts on curbs, potholes and large stones while driving;

corrosion is the most common reason to repair a tank, since rust corrodes all its parts and makes further operation impossible.

The gas tank may be punctured while driving on uneven roads or as a result of hitting a large obstacle.

Basic gas tank malfunctions

The gas tank is made of strong, durable material and lasts for the entire life of the vehicle. However, in some situations it may require repair. These situations are as follows.

1. Fuel line clogged.
2. Hole in the tank.
3. Leak on the welding line of the tank body.

The cause of clogged hoses can be dirt getting into the fuel mesh in the tank itself. The solution in this case is quite simple - periodically wash or change this mesh.

If a hole is formed in the tank as a result of a mechanical shock, then it can no longer be repaired. In this case, the tank will need to be replaced.

If gasoline leaks from the welding line of the tank halves, you can try to seal this place. However, this procedure is very complex and requires appropriate experience.

A gas tank with extensive corrosion cannot be repaired.

DIY fuel tank repair

The first step is to assess the current condition of the gas tank. Does it make sense to repair it or is it easier to buy a new one?

Only soldering (if there are microscopic cracks) or welding (if a small hole has formed on the body) can be considered as a repair. If the VAZ 2110 tank is completely rotten or broken, then no restoration methods will help.

Argon welding allows you to eliminate minor defects and holes on the tank

In any case, the repair of the gas tank on the “ten” begins only after it has been dismantled and thoroughly washed.

Selecting tools and accessories

To independently remove, repair and install the gas tank, you will need a standard set of tools and some auxiliary materials:

heads for 8, 10 and 13;

open-end wrench 17;

extension for keys.

Removing the tank

The dismantling of the tank from the VAZ 2110 must be carried out in an inspection pit or overpass. You can, of course, jack up the body, but this option cannot be called convenient.

In large private garages, car enthusiasts usually arrange an inspection pit for servicing their cars.

Removing the gas tank on a VAZ 2110 can be divided into two stages:

Turning off the fuel pump in the car.

Removing the fuel tank.

First stage: turning off the fuel pump in the cabin

Before removing the tank from the “ten”, you will need to relieve the fuel pressure in the system. To do this, you need to open the rear door of the car and fold down the rear passenger seat cushion:

It is recommended to completely remove the pillow and remove it from the passenger compartment.

Under the pillow there is a sheet of sound insulation.

Find a special cutout in the sound insulation, under which the gas tank hatch is located.

Unscrew the hatch fastening screws with a screwdriver.

Open the hatch cover and remove the pump from the tank cavity.

Before removing the pump, you will need to disconnect the two fuel lines - disconnect the connector.

After this, the first stage of work can be considered completed.

Second stage of work: dismantling the tank

After the pressure in the fuel system has been relieved and the fuel pump has been removed from the tank cavity, you can begin the second part of the work, which takes place under the car body:

Disconnect the fuel level sensor (wires go to the tank, you need to pull the wire out of the connector).

Next, remove the hose from the sensor fitting.

Find the tank mounting bolts and unscrew them.

Remove the tank vent pipe.

After this, carefully lower the tank itself to the surface.

If the metal tank mounts cannot be removed, you can spray them with WD-40 lubricant.

To remove the gas tank from the “ten”, you will need to carry out some work both inside the car and under the body. It is important to ensure that all suitable wires and lines are disconnected from each other.

It is not recommended to restore such a product, since the service life of a rotten tank is obviously minimal

Clean and wash the gas tank

You can flush the gas tank only after dismantling it. You will need to remove the tank from the body, disconnect all fuel and electrical lines, and remove the fuel level sensor.

Some car enthusiasts perform flushing without removing the tank from the car: they simply direct a stream of hot water under pressure through the filler pipe. After steaming, about five liters of gasoline are poured into the tank, tightly capped and shaken. After draining this mixture, the container must be thoroughly dried, it is best to use compressed air.

A stream of hot water is directed into the tank lid, after which the dirt and liquid are sucked out by a pump, and the tank cavity itself is dried with air.

For washing, it is recommended to use detergents such as “MS”, “ML” or “Labomid”. If the tank has not been washed for a long time, it is best to pour detergent into it several times and rinse it with water. At the end of the wash, be sure to steam the internal cavities with hot water and then dry the tank.

Rust inside a gas tank can only be removed with special preparations called “rust converters.” To thoroughly clean the tank, you will need about two liters of this substance, which you will need to pour inside and shake well. After 15 minutes, you can drain the converter - the liquid will come out along with remaining rust and dirt.

The rust converter is available in containers of different volumes, due to which you can choose the volume needed to wash the tank of a specific car model

We repair studs

Studs are elements of the fuel system that secure the gas tank hatch located in the car's interior. We are talking about that small hatch that is hidden under the soundproofing sheet and the rear seat cushion.

The first sign that indicates that it is time to change the studs is the appearance of the smell of gasoline in the cabin. The fact is that the gas tank hatch is closed using both bolted connections (nuts and studs) and a gasket. If the gasket is worn, then most likely the threads on the stud have been stripped (or one or more studs have broken). Accordingly, the gas tank loses its seal, which is why a persistent smell of fuel appears in the cabin.

On the VAZ 2110 there are only six studs on the gas tank hatch

To repair the studs, you will need to remove the tank from the body. After which you will need to rinse the tank cavity thoroughly and dry it (you can use compressed air from a tire pump). Then you can start repairing the studs:

Broken studs or those with worn threads must be removed from the edge of the hatch - a grinder is usually used to cut down the studs at the root.

Use a file to file down uneven areas and stumps from old studs - the surface of the hatch should be perfectly flat.

Afterwards, attach the hatch pressure ring (without a gasket) and drill holes in its holes for new studs.

The recommended drill diameter is 4.5 mm.

On the back side of the hatch, insert bolts with M5 threads into these holes (the length of the bolts is determined in random order so that the nuts are tightened to the end).

Tighten the bolts with nuts, closing the gas tank hatch.

Bolts of the same diameter and length are used as new studs - the tightness of the gas tank is not compromised

This method is used to repair fuel tank studs. During use, one or two studs inevitably break. Only those that are severely worn out or broken should be replaced.

At the owner's request, any modification of the product can be used as nuts for studs, for example, a hex nut

Cleaning methods

Different brands of cars have different fuel tanks.
The easiest cleaning method will be on those models whose gas tanks have a drain hole. That is, draining fuel and washing can be done without dismantling the tank. However, this option is not available to most car enthusiasts, so you will have to remove the tank from the car and wash it separately.

Preparatory stage

The procedure for flushing the gas tank is best done in the fresh air or in a well-ventilated area. Working with flammable and strong-smelling substances can affect a person’s well-being.

The fuel tank must be removed from the car body. As a rule, this procedure does not take much time. The main thing is to use up the entire volume of fuel available in the tank in advance, so that you do not have to drain the gasoline. However, in any case, several liters of fuel will remain in the system - both in the tank itself and in the fuel lines. Therefore, you will need to disconnect the connectors from the fuel pump, and also remove the hoses from the tank itself. You can place fuel drainage containers under all connection points so that fuel does not go into the ground or into half the garage.

When dismantling the gas tank, some amount of fuel will inevitably spill, so it is recommended to use both containers for drainage and rags

After the gas tank is removed from the car, you need to open all its holes and drain the remaining fuel.

Various cleaning products

A variety of products are used to clean gas tanks. All of them are freely available and inexpensive. Depending on the cleaner used, the cleaning method will vary.

We use acetone

To flush a standard 43–50 liter tank, you will need to prepare 2–3 liters of acetone. The procedure is performed as follows:

1. Pour 1 liter of acetone into the dismantled gas tank.
2. Close all drain holes and filler cap tightly.
3. Shake the container well several times.
4. Drain the liquid into a bucket.
5. If a large amount of rust and dirt comes out along with acetone, then it is necessary to carry out the procedure one or two more times.

The properties of acetone allow you to efficiently remove rust from any metal surface.

Vinegar is a great helper in cleaning the tank.

The main advantage of acetic acid is that it perfectly dissolves rust and old dirt in the gas tank cavity. However, there is also a minus: you will need a lot of vinegar, since you need to fill the tank with it to the brim:

1. Pour vinegar into the gas tank and close the tank with a cap.
2. Leave the solution overnight.
3. In the morning, drain several liters of vinegar, then shake the gas tank well.
4. After this, pour the entire solution into a bucket - all dirt and rust should come out.
5. Next, pour a pack of baking soda into the tank. It will react with the remaining acetic acid and remove even the smallest particles of dirt.
6. After this, you will need to rinse the gas tank cavity with warm water several times to remove any remaining acid and soda.

Vinegar is the most affordable way to clean a gas tank with your own hands.

Regular detergents

It is advisable to use household detergents in cases where there is a known small amount of dirt and rust in the tank. Conventional dishwashing detergents will clean the tank cavity well, but will not remove rust, so it is better to use them for primary rinsing or as an additional one after rinsing with acids:

1. Fill the tank with hot water to the brim.
2. Pour washing powder or dishwashing detergent into the water.
3. Close the tank and shake it well.
4. Leave the mixture for two hours.
5. After this, drain the water and thoroughly rinse the gas tank with hot water.
6. If necessary, you can repeat this procedure.

Household detergents allow you to clean the gas tank from dirt and impurities on a budget

Hydrochloric or phosphoric acid for flushing the gas tank

Acids do a good job of cleaning metal surfaces from rust and sediment.

However, you should be careful, as one drop of acid can cause severe burns. It is recommended to wear thick rubberized gloves and goggles to protect your eyes from evaporated fumes:

Fill the tank with hot water about halfway.

Add 2.5–3 liters of acid.

After this, add hot water to the brim and close the tank with a new lid.

It is important to close the neck with another plug, as the acid can damage the plastic cap.

Wait 2 hours.

After the mixtures settle to the bottom, shake the container thoroughly and pour the acid solution into a bucket.

Next, be sure to rinse the tank with hot water. A powerful rust remover is acids

Powerful rust remover - acids

Replacing the fuel tank

Before replacing the tank, it is recommended to protect yourself from possible troubles and remove the wire in the negative terminal of the battery. The work will be completed as quickly and correctly as possible only with the participation of an assistant.

It is recommended to remove the pump immediately after shutting it off to avoid damaging the sensor and fuel lines.

After removing the old gas tank, you will need to perform the following operations to install a new one:

Install a new fuel level sensor gasket and lower the sensor together with it into its place in the tank.

Then lift the tank, first from the rear, then from the front, install it on new clamps, screwing them to the body with new bolts.

Next, connect the fuel hoses, separator and air pipes.

After that, go into the cabin and connect the fuel level sensor and pump to the connectors.

Close the hatch, screw it on and put the seat cushion in place.

After installation, you must make sure that all fuel lines and sensor wires are connected

After replacing the tank, you need to make sure it is working: start the engine, see if there are any problems with the fuel supply or leaks due to poor connections.

Today, you can repair and replace the gas tank on a “ten” at any service station. However, this procedure is not considered difficult to perform independently. Therefore, it is more advisable to remove, repair or change the gas tank yourself.

When to replace

Such minor repairs are carried out as the grid becomes dirty, which happens quite quickly, given the quality of domestic fuel. The correct approach is to change all consumables at the same time, guided by the frequency of pouring new oil into the engine.

During this procedure, you can replace the air and oil filters, as well as the fuel pump mesh. If you make it a habit to change this mesh only after it is completely clogged, the pump will constantly work with increased load, as a result of which repair or even replacement of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump will quickly be required.

The first sign of a faulty fuel pump is the engine refuses to start. After turning on the ignition, you can hear a slight buzzing sound of the operating gasoline supply device, which stops after it creates the necessary fuel pressure in the system.

If after this the car engine does not start or even the sound of the VAZ 2110 pump cannot be heard, then you need to check the presence of gasoline pressure in the line. This is done using the bleed valve on the ramp. The verification procedure will be discussed below. If there is no fuel, it becomes clear that the fuel pump is not working or its screen is clogged.

• https://automanya.ru/lada-obzory/zamena-benzobaka-vaz-2110.html
• https://prometey96.ru/modeli/benzobak-vaz-2112.html

↑ Design of the carburetor engine power system

1 – cold air intake; 2 – air duct; 3 – thermostat; 4 – heated air intake; 5 – fuel drain hose from the carburetor; 6 – air filter assembly; 7 – carburetor; 8 – check valve; 9 – fuel pump; 10 – fuel supply hose to the fuel pump; 11 – fine fuel filter; 12 – fuel drain pipe; 13 – fuel supply pipe from the tank; 14 – fuel tank; 15 – flange of the fuel level sensor and fuel intake tube; 16 – filling pipe hose; 17 – filling pipe; 18 – separator hose; 19 – fuel tank plug; 20 – separator; 21 – separator ventilation hose

↑ Fuel tank

The fuel supply is located in the tank located under the bottom in the area of ​​the rear seats. The tank is made of steel and consists of two stamped halves welded together. Through drainage tubes it is connected to a non-separable separator that traps gasoline vapors. The latter communicates with the atmosphere through a double check valve, which prevents excessive increase or decrease in pressure in the fuel tank. The filler neck is connected to the tank with a gas-resistant rubber hose secured with clamps. The plug is sealed.

Through a fuel intake with a mesh filter, gasoline is supplied from the tank through steel fuel lines and rubber gas-resistant hoses to a fine fuel filter, a fuel pump and then to the carburetor. Gasoline is sucked from the tank due to the vacuum created by the gasoline pump.

Replacement instructions with carburetor

The fuel cleaning element on a VAZ 2109 with a carburetor, according to regulations, must be changed every 10 thousand

kilometers, but taking into account the low quality of our gasoline, it is advisable to reduce this period to 7 thousand kilometers

The fuel filter is located under the brake master cylinder and is secured with two clamps.

Location of the cleaning barrier

What will you need?

• new filter for VAZ 2109 with carburetor;
  New fuel purifier for engines with carburetors
• a set of keys;
• rags;
• gloves.

Stages

Loosen the clamp located on the motor side. Loosen the clamp

Remove the hose from the fuel cleaner. You need to be careful here because some gasoline may spill. Having loosened the clamp, remove the hose, which is located on the side of the tank. Fittings suitable for the filter

Installing a new filter

It is also important here that the arrow coincides with the direction of movement of the fuel. It should be directed towards the pump

Arrow direction

We tighten the clamps. Tightening the clamps

Next, you need to pump gasoline into the fuel cleaning element, because it is still dry. This must be done using a fuel pump. By pressing the lever a couple of times, you will notice how the filter begins to fill with gasoline. We start the car and check for any gasoline leaks.

↑ Fuel pump

The fuel pump is a diaphragm type, mechanically driven by the camshaft eccentric, with a manual pumping lever. It consists of a lower housing with drive levers, an upper housing with valves and pipes, a diaphragm assembly and a cover.

↑ Diaphragm assembly

The diaphragm assembly is installed between the upper and lower housings. Two diaphragms are installed on top (working ones), and one (safety) on the bottom: it prevents gasoline from entering the engine crankcase if the working diaphragms rupture. In this case, leaked gasoline is discharged through holes in the external spacer located between the safety and working diaphragms.

The diaphragms, together with the internal gasket and plates (from the outside), are assembled on the rod and secured with a nut. The rod is inserted into the cavity of the balancer using a T-shaped shank. A spring is installed between the diaphragm assembly and the lower housing. The upper housing is closed with a lid secured with a bolt. Underneath there is a mesh fuel filter.

↑ Pump

The pump is attached to the engine on two studs through a heat-insulating spacer, sealed on both sides with cardboard gaskets. Gaskets are available in thicknesses of 0.30, 0.75 and 1.25 mm. A 0.30 mm gasket is installed between the heat-insulating spacer and the engine, and a 0.75 mm gasket is installed on the outer side of the spacer (facing the fuel pump) and the minimum protrusion of the pusher from the spacer is checked, which should be 0.8-1.3 mm. To do this, slowly turn the engine crankshaft, pressing the pusher with your finger and periodically checking its protrusion above the plane of the gasket. If the minimum protrusion is less than specified, the outer gasket is replaced with a thinner one, if more, with a thicker one.

Part of the gasoline supplied to the carburetor is drained back into the tank through a system of pipelines and hoses - this improves the cooling of the gasoline pump and prevents the formation of vapor locks in the power system. A check valve is embedded in the drain line, allowing fuel to flow in only one direction - from the carburetor to the tank.

↑ Air filter

The air filter housing can receive cold air through an intake near the radiator or hot air from an intake mounted on the exhaust manifold. The flow is switched by a damper controlled by a thermostat. The built-in thermal power element opens the hot air damper when the incoming air temperature is below 25°C and completely closes it if the air is heated above 35°C. Thus, the temperature of the incoming air is automatically maintained within 25-35°C.

The air filter is dry, with a replaceable paper filter element, mounted on the carburetor studs through a rubber gasket and secured with four self-locking nuts through a metal plate.

Ways to fight

In total, there are several methods for effectively removing water, which are divided into the following categories:

• mechanical;
• chemical;
• using various additives.

Since each category includes several effective methods, they should be considered separately. And then everyone will decide for themselves what is better to use, and which method should be abandoned.

Mechanical removal

Some motorists use mechanical cleaning methods. Not the worst option, but inferior in speed to competitors. At this point, decide for yourself how ready you are to carry out such procedures.

• Dismantling. If there is a lot of water, and you are guaranteed to get rid of every last drop, plus clean the tank itself of accumulated sediment, you will have to remove the structure, remove all the contents and dry it. This method cannot be called a quick one;
• Communicating vessels. The point is this. You take a long hose, insert one end into the tank to the bottom, and the other into the prepared container. Moreover, the container must be placed so that it is lower than the level of the tank. It will be great if you have a pit, a lift or an overpass;
• Pump. And the fuel itself. In many cars it is located under the rear seats. You need to remove the supply hose from it, put the second one on the spool and place it in an empty container. The car ignition is turned on, and the pump responsible for pumping fuel begins pumping. The method is suitable only for injection engines.

Mechanical removal is quite effective, but very time-consuming. So this doesn't quite fit the topic of our conversation. We are looking for quick ways.

Chemical

Next comes the chemical method. It takes much less time, and you don’t have to disassemble or connect anything.

There are several options to choose from.

Binders. They bind water when they enter the fuel tank. It works effectively, but is considered a dangerous method. The water will remain inside, even if it changes its state of aggregation. The technique has not been well studied, so I don’t recommend taking risks; Machine oil. The method is suitable for a diesel car, where 50 liters of fuel requires 0.5 liters of oil. When water mixes with the lubricant, an emulsion will form and burn; Removal with acetone or alcohol. This is already for gasoline car engines. From 200 to 500 ml of product is poured into a full tank. The water will burn together with the resulting mixture

It is important to add it to a full gas tank. No harm to the car

Here you only need to note that with the pressure of alcohol or acetone, all the sediment rises from the bottom. Therefore, after use, it is better to immediately change the filter in your fuel system.

Additives

A special moisture remover can be purchased at an automotive supply store. There are quite a lot of additives, and some of them do an excellent job.

They can be divided into 4 main categories:

Additives are a hot topic for motorists. Not everyone believes in their effectiveness and considers it right to pour foreign chemicals into their car.