Oil pump VAZ 2110
If, after starting the engine of your VAZ 2110 car, the control light representing an oil can lights up and does not go out. You may need to replace the VAZ 2110 oil pump, but don’t rush, check other possible causes of the breakdown by elimination, it may be much simpler, and you can fix everything yourself.
Why do you need oil at all?
I often hear that oil is the lifeblood of the engine.
This is not entirely true, of course, the comparison is very rough, but still, the engine will not function without oil (or it will, but not for a very long time). Modern motor oils lubricate and protect all rubbing parts, and these are pistons (with their rings), shafts, bearings, etc. Let's just say that good oil extends the life of the engine by many thousands of kilometers.
BUT oil must flow through the system, just like blood itself through human vessels, if the oil is simply poured in a pan and does not go to the rubbing parts - IT IS USELESS!
What builds up oil pressure in the system?
Everything is simple here - there is a special oil pump that takes oil from the engine sump and pumps it through the system. It is usually installed in the engine sump and driven by special gears that the engine turns during operation.
Oil through many channels begins to be supplied to the right places under pressure, as I already wrote, this is the crankshaft and its bearings, the camshaft and its “bed”, pistons, and much more.
It is the pump that is responsible for the pressure; if the pump stops, the pressure indicator will drop to zero. THIS CANNOT BE ALLOWED! Because the engine will not be lubricated at all, which will lead to instant breakdown, especially at high speeds.
BUT often the oil pump does not stop, but simply begins to pump worse, this indicates its wear, which is why you need to know the oil pressure in the engine! To respond in time to the nearest oil pump failure.
Operating principle of pressure reducing valve
The oil pressure in the system can depend on several factors, but the main one is the number of crankshaft revolutions. In other words, the harder we press the gas pedal, the faster the oil pump gears rotate. And the faster the gears rotate, the greater the volume of oil the pump captures from the crankcase, and the higher its pressure at the outlet.
When the pressure reaches a certain value, the serviceable valve opens slightly, allowing oil to pass into the reserve channel, through which the lubricant flows back into the crankcase.
The operation of the oil pump pressure reducing valve is as follows. The piston or metal ball is pressed against the inlet of the housing by a spring, which, in turn, is supported by a thrust screw. The oil, under the influence of increasing pressure, begins to put pressure on the surface of the valve, pushing it inside the body and compressing the spring. Thus, a hole opens, through which the lubricant goes into the reserve channel.
When the pressure decreases, its value is no longer sufficient to keep the valve in the open position, and the ball or piston, under the influence of a spring, again closes the inlet hole. As you can see, the scheme is quite simple and reliable, however, it sometimes fails.
Oil pump VAZ 2110
July 31, 2022 — 9:22
The VAZ 2110 engine has a combined lubrication system. On cars of this model there is a gear oil pump located at the end of the cylinder block.
Gears with trochoidal internal gearing reduce mechanical losses during rotation.
The VAZ 2110 oil pump is equipped with a full-flow non-separable filter, with anti-drainage and bypass valves. This device ensures the circulation of engine oil and lubrication of all internal combustion engine components.
It works due to the movement of the crankshaft. Based on the method of connection to the crankshaft, it is possible to distinguish units that are driven by connecting directly to it, which is typical for all VAZ vehicles with front-wheel drive.
On classic and all-wheel drive models, this communication system is supplemented by special links, an intermediate shaft, a timing chain, and a set of toothed gears, which transmit torque from the crankshaft.
The service life of this device is from 120 thousand km; it can work properly when the engine has already been overhauled. However, breakdowns are possible.
If, after starting the engine, the control light in the form of an oil can remains on, there are various possible causes of the breakdown:
- First, check the circuit from the sensor to the instrument panel. If the wire from the sensor is connected to ground, the light will go out if the circuit is working properly.
- The reason may be the filter. You can determine such a breakdown by unscrewing the pressure sensor. It must be wetted with oil; a dry sensor indicates that the filter is clogged or its valve is stuck.
- If replacing the filter did not yield anything, open the pan, check the oil receiver and the integrity of its sealing ring.
- After all the checks, we can only assume that the reason is wear or breakdown of the unit itself.
If you need to replace the VAZ 2110 oil pump, it is better to choose a manufacturer from reliable companies.
The list of offers can be viewed in our catalog, or you can leave a purchase request in the appropriate section. To identify the malfunction, the removed device must be disassembled. Perhaps the reason is clogging, or the pressure relief valve is stuck, etc. We fix the VAZ 2110 oil pump in a vice, unscrew the screws on the cover, take out the housing and gears. Having unscrewed the pressure reducing valve plug, we take out the spring with the valve, then press out the self-clamping crankshaft oil seal. All parts must be thoroughly washed with gasoline, dried, checked for compliance with the diameter of the driven gear socket, the axial clearances of the drive and driven gears, and measure the width of the segment on the body. If there are no scratches on the working surfaces of the case, and the wear limits of the gears are not exceeded, the device will still serve.
Continuing the repair of the VAZ 2110 oil pump, we lubricate the housing and gears, the O-ring of the oil receiver tube, and the pressure reducing valve piston with engine oil. We install a new crankshaft oil seal and put everything back together.
Instructions for verification
So:
- First, check the serviceability of the electrical circuit going from the sensor to the instrument panel . Throw the wire going from the sensor to the engine to ground, the light will go out if the circuit is working properly.
- The second reason could be the oil filter. Such a breakdown is determined by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor. It should be moistened with oil; a dry sensor means that the filter is clogged or its valve is stuck.
- When replacing the filter does not have an effect, open the pan and check the oil receiver itself and the condition of its rubber sealing ring.
- After these checks, one reason remains - a breakdown of the unit itself.
For your information:
- The engine of the VAZ 2110 model is equipped with a combined lubrication system. On machines of this model there is a gear oil pump, which is located at the front end of the cylinder block.
- Special gears with trochoidal internal gearing reduce mechanical losses during rotation.
- The oil pump itself is equipped with a fully in-line, non-separable filter. With bypass and anti-drainage valves. This device ensures good oil circulation and lubrication through all components of the internal combustion engine (ICE).
- It works by rotating the crankshaft. The connection method to the crankshaft is direct, which is typical for all VAZ cars with front-wheel drive.
- On all-wheel drive and classic models, the system is supplemented with special transmission parts: a timing chain, an intermediate shaft, and a set of gears that transmit torque from the crankshaft.
- The service life of this pump is from 120 thousand km, it works properly when the engine has already undergone a major overhaul. However, during operation, breakdowns are not excluded.
If replacement is still required, it is better for you to choose the VAZ 2110 oil pump from among reliable manufacturers.
Recommendation: If you still need to remove the oil pump, replace the front crankshaft oil seal at the same time.
Tools
- Set of spanner wrenches
- Ratchet socket set
- A pair of flathead screwdrivers
Operating procedure
So:
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal.
- Drain the oil from the engine (through the drain plug in the oil pan).
- We take out the camshaft drive belt.
Warning: After removing the timing belt (timing belt), do not try to turn the crankshaft or camshaft, the pistons may bend the valves. Then the price of repairs will increase significantly, as will the volume of work performed.
- Now remove the oil sump.
- On engines with a fuel injection system, disconnect the block with wiring from the sensor that counts crankshaft revolutions.
- Using two screwdrivers, remove the pulley from the crankshaft.
We pull out the pulley with two screwdrivers
- If the key does not fit tightly in the crankshaft groove, take it out so that it does not get lost.
- We unscrew the bolts securing the oil receiver (there are three bolts, there are flat washers under the bolts) and remove the oil receiver.
- We clean the oil receiver mesh from dirt and wash it with white spirit. When the mesh cannot be washed or is damaged, we replace the oil receiver.
- We replace the lost elasticity or torn sealing ring of the oil receiver.
- We unscrew the bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block (there are six of them) and remove the pump along with the gasket. Be careful - there are flat washers under the bolts.
Unscrew the bolts securing the pump
Helpful Hint: Every time you remove the pump, replace the old gasket with a new one. It is recommended to install only a factory-made gasket; a non-standard gasket has a different thickness and will cause problems with the operation of the oil pump.
- We turn the pump drive gear to ensure correct installation on the crankshaft: the protrusions on the gear should coincide with the flats on the crankshaft.
- Before installing the pump in place, lubricate the lip of the oil seal.
- When putting the pump in place, carefully tuck the working edge of its oil seal onto the crankshaft journal using a wooden stick.
- Only after this do we tighten the bolts securing the pump.
- Then install all the parts back in reverse order.
- Adjust the tension of the camshaft drive belt.
This is interesting: What to do if the engine goes into overdrive?
Alarm indication
Of course, now in almost all cars there is an emergency indication for a complete lack of pressure, this is known to us all - a “burning oil can”. If it doesn’t go out for some time after starting, for example 10 – 20 seconds is one thing, it’s almost always the oil filter’s fault . But if the lamp is constantly on, then this is already an alarm bell. Perhaps the oil pressure sensor has simply failed, or perhaps the oil pump has failed.
In any case, the emergency indication is very important, and I do not advise you to joke with it; nevertheless, this is fraught with a major engine overhaul .
Remember this rule, if the lamp comes on, then turn off the car and preferably immediately to a service station, either a tow truck, or in tow.
Why is an oil pump needed?
The oil pump in the engine is designed to build up pressure in the oil system, for the necessary lubricating effect of all rubbing parts of the internal combustion engine. If the pressure in the system is insufficient, the lubrication effect will be ineffective, which in turn will lead to the engine being unsuitable for operation. In this case, the low oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel should light up. Therefore, you should not delay repairing the oil pump.
You are left with two options. Take the car to a service station and lose a lot of time and money, or change the oil pump yourself.
Pump diagnostics
Oil pump removed for diagnostics. Symptoms: oil leak.
Secondly, you need to check whether power is supplied to it correctly or whether a wire is broken somewhere. And only after these procedures, if the light does not go out, will you have to change the oil pump.
Why might it break prematurely?
An oil leak from the oil pump can lead to expensive engine repairs.
Replacement of the oil pump can also be caused by poor quality oil, which will lead to rapid clogging of the oil receiver grid and subsequent lack of oil pressure in the system. It is not uncommon for an oil pump to become wet and oil to leak from underneath it. In these cases, you can get by by replacing the gasket and cleaning the oil receiver mesh.
Purpose
The purpose of the oil pump is to circulate oil through all engine components to lubricate them evenly and increase their service life. It is driven by an internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) and is structurally divided into two different types, based on the principle of coupling with the crankshaft. In our case, it connects directly to the crankshaft, that is, it rotates with it. This is the operating scheme of the unit for front-wheel drive VAZ cars. Cars with all-wheel drive, as well as classics, have a more complex system installed. There, the drive contains additional links: an intermediate shaft, a timing chain (gas distribution mechanism), and toothed gears, through which torque is transmitted from the crankshaft to this device.
Common faults
- Most often, the pump of the VAZ 2112 and other VAZ models with front-wheel drive leaks through the seal, which has to be changed.
- The oil receiver also often fails, especially if you use low-quality oil, or missed replacing it in a timely manner, or the oil does not meet specifications (too thick).
- Too liquid simply will not be pumped and the pressure sensor will immediately light up.
- In this case, the oil receiver mesh becomes clogged, the circulation of oil through the engine becomes difficult, causes oil starvation, and as a result, the service life of the engine is significantly reduced.
- This includes a malfunction of the pressure reducing (bypass) valve: either it is stuck in the open position, and then the oil pressure drops. Either it does not bypass, and then the oil will squeeze out through the oil seal
What oil to fill and at what frequency?
The manufacturer recommends changing the engine oil after 10 thousand kilometers, however, it is recommended to shorten this period if possible, and at the same time change the oil filter. You should only buy oil from well-known companies and, when choosing it, beware of counterfeits. The ideal option is to pour oil recommended by the manufacturer and not be fooled by cheapness or high cost (expensive does not mean high quality).
Recommendations for choosing spare parts
- The oil pump usually does not cause car owners much trouble, since it has a service life of at least 120 thousand kilometers. However, no one is immune from breakdowns
- If suddenly you still need to replace the oil pump on a VAZ 2112, it is better to take original spare parts and not save
- Among the well-known suppliers of parts for VAZ cars, the official one is the Tolyatti Automobile Assemblies Plant (TZA for short).
- It also produces oil pumps for the VAZ 2112
- This is one of four varieties of such units in the VAZ line, which fits all front-wheel drive fuel-injected cars
- Typically, removing the oil pump on any car occurs when disassembling the engine.
- Only if necessary, this work is carried out on the car without removing the engine from it.
- Before starting this procedure, first drive the car into the inspection hole.
- And immediately purchase everything you need to carry out a full replacement, as shown in Photo No. 2.
Photo No. 2, everything you need to replace the pump
Designations in the photo:
- 1 - oil pump
- 2 – pan gasket
- 3 - pump gasket
- 4 - sealing ring
- 5 - sensor mounting bracket
Necessary tool
- A set of wrenches (open-end - spanner preferably)
- Socket set and ratchet
- Two strong flathead screwdrivers
- Hexagon set
How to check oil pressure?
The actual check is carried out using a special device - a pressure gauge. It is also worth noting that you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature, usually 90 degrees Celsius.
If you measure with a cold engine, especially in winter, the pressure can jump to high values, from 0.5 BAR or even higher, but measuring with a cold engine is WRONG!
In order to check the pressure, you need to find the emergency sensor, which is responsible for the indication on the dashboard. It is worth noting that it is not always located nearby and it is convenient to unscrew it. We unscrew it, and in its place we attach the test output connected to the pressure gauge.
The check can then be divided into two options:
- AT “idle” it is usually from 900 to 1200 rpm.
- Then at “higher” speeds, usually 4000 - 5000 engine speeds.
It is also worth noting that if you unscrew the emergency sensor, the “oil can” will light up on your instrument panel, this is normal.
Now a short video showing how measurements are taken.
At what pressure should the pressure reducing valve operate?
But how can you understand that the pressure has increased or, conversely, decreased? And what should it even be like? The optimal oil pressure in the system can be found by looking at the owner's manual. It will be different for different brands and models of cars. For example, the pressure reducing valve of the Tavria oil pump operates at 0.55 MPa. Approximately the same indicators are relevant for most Lada cars.
You can measure oil pressure by connecting a special liquid pressure gauge to the system into the pressure sensor mounting socket. Before this, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature. All measurements are made with the engine running.
What value should it be?
To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.
AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars
At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands
If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.
Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.
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The oil pump plays a vital role in the engine lubrication system of any car. Even short-term operation of a car with a faulty pump will lead to failure of the power unit. Therefore, any car owner should know the main signs of oil pump failure and take appropriate measures in a timely manner.
Where is he located?
The oil pump pressure reducing valve is most often located on the cover of this device, which is located in the lower front part of the engine block behind the generator drive pulley. Sometimes it can be installed on the body
There are two types of valves: built-in and detachable. In the first case, the oil pump and pressure relief valve are a single structure that cannot be disassembled. In the second, the pressure control mechanism is removed from the pump using a tool and can be repaired separately.
Functions, structure and location of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump
The engine lubrication system is designed to timely supply engine oil to the moving and hottest elements of the power unit. Oil is supplied from the sump and circulates through special channels inside the block and cylinder head. The oil pump ensures forced circulation of the lubricant.
Location of the oil pump on the VAZ 2110–12
On the VAZ 2110–12, the oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the cylinder block under the crankshaft gear, which drives the gas distribution mechanism.
The oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the engine under the crankshaft gear
Replacing the Oil Pump VAZ 2112 16 Valves
replacing oil pump
Replacement of
oil pump is required in case of its complete or partial breakdown. In most cases, a faulty oil pump can be detected by certain characteristics, such as excessive or very low oil pressure at idle.
Where is the VAZ 2110 oil pump located?
Residence pump For many, this is a mystery, because it is located in the engine oil, and to get to it, you need to drain the engine oil. The oil is poured into a clean canister after it is made. replacement
oil pump refilled into the engine. Replacing the VAZ 2110 oil pump is necessary in case of its complete or partial breakdown. When replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 car, one of the stages of work is replacing the pump. cooling system pump. Replacing the oil pump is carried out at the inspection hole or lift using a standard tool box. Manual replacement of the VAZ 2112 alternator belt with 16 valves. In this article I will tell you how to replace the oil pump on a VAZ 2110 at home when necessary.
replacing the VAZ oil pump. step by step guide
1. VAZ 2110 with engines 8 and 16 valves and the operation of the oil pump. There is a pump replacement. You need to drain the oil before you start removing the pan, but it is best to do this “hot”. To do this, warm up the engine to operating temperature, replace the oil tank, unscrew the drain hole and wait until the oil is completely drained.
Dismantling
Depending on the situation, the oil pump can be completely replaced, or repair work can be performed - change gears, return the pump pressure reducing valve to functionality.
But let's talk about everything in order. In any case, work begins with dismantling the oil pump:
- Before you remove the pan to gain access to the pump, you will definitely need to drain the oil.
- To do this, warm up the engine to operating temperature, open the drain hole and wait until all the liquid drains out.
- Draining can also be done when it is cold, but due to its high viscosity, the oil can flow for a very long time and most of it will still remain inside the crankcase.
- After draining the oil, remove the three mounting bolts from the crankcase protection using an 8 mm wrench. The protection blocks access to the flywheel near the crankcase.
- Remove the flywheel guard and then remove the bolts from the crankcase. That's it, now the crankcase can be removed.
- In front of you is the crankshaft and the oil sump where the desired pump is located.
- By unscrewing the three mounting bolts, you can remove the intake from the pump.
- Let's move on to the engine compartment. Lift the hood and remove the plastic cover. This is a guard that covers the timing belt.
- Next, you need to remove the front right wheel to remove the pulley fixing washer, and then remove the pulley itself.
- Remove the timing belt and remove the six mounting bolts that hold the oil pump in place. Here you will need an 8 mm wrench.
- Remove the oil pump from the crankshaft.
Disassembly
If you do not want or cannot yet purchase a new pump, you can try to repair it. Perhaps the problem is a malfunctioning valve or worn gears.
- Remove the gasket from the pump;
- Remove the bolt holding the crankshaft position sensor;
- By unscrewing the six mounting bolts, you can remove the cover from the pump;
- Using a pair of screwdrivers, lift the housing so that the pins on it come out of their holes freely;
- Remove the body, disconnect it from the cover;
- Now you need to remove two gears from the cover. The drive gear is removed first, and then the driven gear is removed;
- Next in line is the pressure reducing valve. You need to unscrew the plug under which the o-ring is located;
- Check the condition of this seal. If the ring shows signs of damage or is too squeezed out, be sure to replace it with a new one;
- Remove the valve spring;
- Now you can remove the valve itself. To do this, gently tap the case on a stand made of pure wood;
- The valve may be stuck. Do not worry. Take any thin, sharp object, pry it up and remove the element. It is better not to use metal objects so as not to damage the surface;
- Check the current condition of the aluminum cover. If there are deep scratches or signs of wear, replace it;
- If the pump body shows signs of wear, do not even try to repair anything. The only correct solution would be to completely replace it;
- You also need to make sure that the gears and the diameter of their sockets comply with the standards;
- The maximum diameter of the driven gear socket is 75.1 millimeters. If it is larger, the case must be replaced;
- Measure the width of the body in the middle. If the indicator is less than 3.4 mm, it is worn out and needs to be replaced;
- As for the thickness of the gears, according to the requirements, the thickness of the drive is at least 7.42 mm, and the driven one - 7.35 mm. In case of deviations from the norm, the gears are changed.
Assembly and installation
If you managed to repair the oil pump, then all that remains is to assemble it and install the unit in place. If you decide to completely replace the device, skip the first part of the further instructions.
- Install the driven gear onto the housing with the chamfers on the teeth.
- Also, the new pump drive gear is returned into place using chamfers on the teeth.
- Be sure to remember to lubricate the gears with oil so that they work more reliably and longer.
- Replace the pump cover and screw back all the fasteners.
- Lubricate a new or repaired old relief valve before installing it in its proper place.
- The valve fits into its seat. Make sure installation is done bottom down.
- Now it’s the turn of the spring and the plug, which is wrapped with an o-ring. Again, these elements are pre-lubricated with engine oil.
- Using the oil pickup tube, oil is poured back into the unit.
- Once assembly is complete, rotate the pump gears several full turns. This will ensure effective lubrication of all surfaces inside the pump.
The unit is assembled and can be returned to its place. For this:
- Return the timing belt to its place by pulling it onto the rollers. Don't forget to set according to the labels;
- Return the plastic belt protection to its rightful place, install the wheel;
- Now you need to crawl under the car to install the oil pick-up on the pump;
- Be sure to treat the crankcase with compounds, removing all fat. Treat with sealant;
- We recommend installing a new gasket on the crankcase, after which another layer of sealant is applied;
- The block is degreased, the crankcase is returned to its rightful place;
- To make it easier to attach it, tighten several bolts at different points, and then screw in all the rest;
- Protection is installed on the flywheel, the crankcase protection is returned to its place;
- Pour oil back into the system, start the engine, and allow the oil to distribute throughout the components.
If you carry out all the manipulations correctly and first determine that it is the pump that has failed, the warning light on the dashboard will go out.
The oil pump plays a huge role in the functioning of the engine’s lubrication system, so at the first sign of its breakdown, immediately go to the garage, or entrust the replacement to specialists from trusted service stations.
Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.
Troubleshooting
Direct connection of the pump to the crankshaft avoids damage associated with its drive. This, however, does not exclude the possibility of other malfunctions.
Pump malfunctions and their symptoms
The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump include:
- clogging of the oil receiver mesh;
- damage to the device body;
- wear of gear seats in the housing and cover;
- wear of the drive or driven gear;
- damage to the pressure reducing valve;
- deformation or damage to the valve spring.
A constantly burning warning light in the form of an oil can indicates a drop in pressure in the lubrication system to a critical level
Signs of oil pump failure may include:
- critical oil pressure warning light on the dashboard;
- engine overheating;
- high-frequency knocking (clattering) at the pump location.
The design of the VAZ 2110–12 engine does not provide for the installation of an oil pressure sensor. Like most modern cars, representatives of the tenth family are equipped only with an emergency (critically low) pressure sensor. When the pressure in the system drops, a warning light in the form of a red oil can lights up on the instrument panel. However, this lamp can also light up in the event of other malfunctions (failure of the sensor, break in its electrical circuit, oil leak, etc.).
Engine overheating also cannot be attributed only to symptoms of a faulty oil pump. It usually occurs due to problems in the cooling system.
As for the knocking coming from the oil pump, not everything is clear here either. Sometimes, when gears or housing elements wear out, the device may produce a high-frequency knocking sound. As a rule, it is associated with the formation of play between the gears and the housing (cover) and is most clearly audible at idle. However, similar sounds can also be produced by worn bearings (tension or guide rollers, pumps, crankshafts).
Oil pump repair - Lubrication system
1. Remove the oil pump from the vehicle (see “Removing and installing the oil pump”).
2. Unscrew bolt 1 of the fastening and remove crankshaft position sensor 2.
3. Remove the six bolts securing the pump cover.
4. Using two screwdrivers, lift the pump housing until the dowel pins on the housing come out of the holes in the pump cover and remove the pump housing from the cover.
5. Remove the drive from the cover and...
6. ...pump driven gear.
7. Remove the pressure reducing valve plug. Please note that there is an aluminum O-ring installed under the plug. Replace a badly compressed ring.
8. Remove the pressure reducing valve spring.
9. Remove the relief valve by gently tapping the body on a clean wooden board. If the valve does not come out, remove it using a pointed wooden stick.
10. Inspect the aluminum cover. In the contact area of the gears there should be no noticeable signs of wear, scuffs or deep scratches. Otherwise, replace the cover.
The main reasons for oil pump failure
The service life of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump regulated by the manufacturer is 150–200 thousand km. This, however, does not mean that the pump will not last longer or fail much earlier. The main reasons why it may stop functioning normally are:
- spent resource;
- untimely replacement of the oil filter, as a result of which metal particles (friction products) enter the system, acting on the pump parts as an abrasive, and the filter mesh of the oil receiver becomes clogged;
- use of oil whose characteristics do not meet the requirements of the car manufacturer.
Attention!
Before installing the VAZ 2110 oil pump, you need to lubricate the pressure relief valve and gear. In addition, along with replacing the pump, it is worth replacing the oil seal.
- After the pump is installed, you need to put the timing belt on the tension rollers and align it to the marks.
- Put the plastic protection back in place and put the wheel back in place.
- Install the oil pickup onto the oil pump.
- Degrease the crankcase, after which sealant is applied.
- Install a new gasket on the crankcase and apply sealant again. Degrease the block and put the crankcase in place (to make the task easier, first fasten 3-4 bolts at different points, then tighten the remaining ones).
- Place the flywheel guard (also, if equipped, the crankcase guard).
- Fill with oil, start the engine.
VAZ 2112: repair and replacement of the oil pump
Oil pump VAZ 2112 If your VAZ 2112 car does not have operating oil pressure. When the engine is idling or under load. Which is reflected by a red light that does not go out on the instrument panel with an image of an oil can. Perhaps you need to replace the oil pump of a VAZ 2112. You have two options - either go to a service station, leave the car for repair for at least half a day, and pay a decent amount for the work. The second option is to make the replacement yourself.
Tip: If the red light does not go out, indicating a lack of pressure in the system, do not rush to change the pump. First, check the wiring of the oil pressure sensor. Then make sure that the sensor itself is working properly: unscrew it and see if it is dry or lubricated. If the sensor is dry, the oil pump is malfunctioning, otherwise replace the sensor.
Basic data
The VAZ 2110, 2112 oil pump is designed to uninterruptedly supply oil to the engine to lubricate its rubbing parts, which effectively extends their service life. On these cars, this product is connected to the crankshaft and directly receives energy from it for operation (rotation), which is traditional for all front-wheel drive VAZs. The product is located in the engine oil sump.
Signs of pump failure:
- 1. Increased or decreased oil pressure at idle speed;
- 2. There is no oil pressure at idle, under load;
- 3. Continuous lighting of a red light signal with an image of an oil can, indicating a lack of oil pressure in the system.
You need to know that the burning of a lamp with an image of an oil can, without confirmation, is not grounds for immediate replacement of the unit. First you need to make sure that the wiring of the oil pressure sensor is in good condition; if everything is in order with it, then you definitely need to check the sensor itself. To do this, it is dismantled and inspected - if there are no traces of lubricant on it (no circulation), the pump will need to be replaced; when the sensor is lubricated, the sensor should be replaced.
The most common pump failures include:
- 1. Oil leakage through the oil seal;
- 2. Breakdown of the oil reservoir, which most often occurs due to the driver’s fault, namely the use of low-quality oil, too thick, or untimely oil changes. Oil that is too thin simply will not be pumped through the pump, which will be immediately signaled by a lamp with an oiler;
- 3. Clogged oil receiver grid, which leads to difficulty in oil circulation through the engine. In this case, oil starvation occurs with increased wear of parts and assemblies of the VAZ 212 engine and other models.
- 4. Damage to the pressure reducing (bypass) valve. It can stop in different positions: if it “hangs” in the open position, the oil pressure will drop, but if it stops in the closed position, then the bypass will not occur, this will be evidenced by oil leakage through the oil seal.
The manufacturer AvtoVAZ recommends changing the oil every 10 thousand km, but operating experience shows that it is better to reduce the mileage between changes. You need to buy oil only from reputable manufacturers, and you also need to be wary of counterfeits.
Oil pump replacement and repair
The oil pump of VAZ 2110–12 cars is replaced in an inspection pit or overpass. In extreme cases, you can use a jack. To work you will need the following tools:
- wheel wrench;
- keys for 10, 13, 17;
- hexagon socket wrenches 5 and 8;
- large slotted screwdriver;
- special key for tension rollers (to adjust the timing belt tension);
- clean, dry container to drain the oil.
Removing the oil pump
The procedure for dismantling the oil pump on a VAZ 2110–2112 is as follows: