Replacing the intake manifold gasket on an injection VAZ-2114 with your own hands

Replacing the intake manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114 car, as well as replacing the exhaust manifold gasket, is a very complex procedure and requires certain knowledge and experience. Of course, you will have to do a colossal amount of work and spend a lot of time, but this will save 4-5 thousand rubles on replacement at a car service center.

The video below will tell you about replacing the receiver and manifold. During the replacement process, the intake manifold gasket is also changed:

The video will tell you how to properly replace the intake manifold gasket, and also tell you about some of the subtleties and nuances of the process.

Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114 with your own hands

Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114 is a very complex procedure and requires certain knowledge and experience.
So, not all experienced car enthusiasts are able to do this correctly. In addition to the fact that exhaust gases exit through the exhaust manifold, it is also responsible for the normal operation of the engine, since a lambda probe is installed on it. Video about replacing the exhaust manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114

The video will tell you how to properly replace the exhaust manifold gasket, and also tell you about some of the subtleties and nuances of this process.

Overhaul of VAZ 2107

In some cases, major repairs of the VAZ 2107 power unit can be partially carried out without dismantling it. Before starting work, thoroughly rinse the engine and engine compartment with running water and dry. Without removing the motor you can replace:

• crankcase seal;
• cuffs of both collectors;
• crankshaft oil seals;
• pump;
• generator;
• gasoline pump;
• carburetor.

The cylinder head is also easily removed from the engine without dismantling.

A major overhaul involves the restoration of engine elements, as a result of which the technical parameters will correspond to the parameters of the new engine. For this:

• the entire piston group is changed;
• cylinders are bored;
• the crankshaft is ground;
• liners are changed.

I remember how I got into the first major engine overhaul due to my own stupidity. I went out onto the field. There was a ravine ahead, so I drove in my “seven”. I couldn’t go further up the hill, and I couldn’t go back either. Basically, the car is stuck and skidding. Then an acquaintance came up, he was collecting something there - flowers or plants of some kind. He says: “You’re doing it wrong, you need to give it back, and then sharply forward. Let me sit down, and you push me when he moves forward.” Well, I agreed like a fool. The car skidded for about half an hour, no use. I called a tractor, which I wanted to do before. They pulled out the car. I sat down and drove back home. A few meters later the check flashed. It turns out, as I later found out, all the oil leaked while the car was slipping. It’s good that the tractor didn’t go far. I had to take the car for a major overhaul, replacing the piston and boring the shaft.

The need for major repairs is determined by the condition of the cylinder block and piston group. If most of the elements are well preserved, you can limit yourself to replacing individual parts. If even slight block wear is detected, cylinder honing will be required.

Sometimes VAZ 2107 owners buy a repair kit, which includes a reground crankshaft and a piston set. It is also recommended to purchase an incomplete cylinder block for major repairs. Since in this case the gaps are not misaligned, replacing the block will be quite simple. However, most often you have to buy a complete cylinder block, including an oil pump, pan, cylinder head, bell-shaped couplings, etc.

It is recommended to disassemble the internal combustion engine on a professional stand, after first removing the flywheel and clutch assembly. If there is no such stand, the dismantled engine is firmly fixed and only then its repair begins.

Typically, a major overhaul of a VAZ-2107 engine involves:

• disassembling the cylinder head, followed by cleaning and checking;
• inspection of rocker arms and valves;
• valve repair or grinding;
• dismantling pistons and connecting rods;
• dismantling the crankshaft;
• checking the condition of the cylinder block and cleaning it;
• checking the camshaft;
• inspection of bearings and checking them for play;
• removal and installation of rings;
• checking clearances;
• inspection of seals and their replacement.

Thus, almost any repair of the VAZ-2107 can be carried out independently. To do this, you need to have certain skills and a set of repair tools, as well as follow step-by-step instructions from specialists.

Exhaust manifold functions

It consists of several pipes that merge into one, but has different mountings and configurations for different engines. To produce VC, high-carbon cast iron, stainless steel and titanium are used, sometimes coated with ceramic/chrome.

The task of the “spider” (as the exhaust manifold is called in the Russian Federation) is to transfer combustion products collected from all cylinders to the exhaust pipe. Gases from the AC enter the catalyst or directly into the exhaust pipe and then to the muffler. The exhaust manifold is attached to the engine, or more precisely to the cylinder head (cylinder head), sealing the joint using a special element.

Ramp

The ramp is removed as an assembly with the fuel pressure regulator:

• It is necessary to disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
• Using 2 open-end wrenches 17, unscrew the fittings securing the gasoline supply pipes to reduce pressure.
• Disconnect the ramp voltage connector.
• Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the bracket for fastening the gasoline supply and outlet pipes and disconnect it.
• Using a No. 5 hexagon, unscrew the 2 screws for fastening the ramp.
• Pull the ramp in the axial direction of the injector from the seat, remove the ramp towards the left side of the hood.

Note: follow the direction of travel of the vehicle.

• Unscrew the nut from the left intake manifold bracket and loosen the lower bolt.
• Remove the bracket from it.
• Perform the same operation with the right bracket and remove it.
• Unscrew the 2 nuts from the eye stud.

Removing the eye

So:

• Unscrew the 3 nuts from the receiver bracket and remove it.
• Carefully remove the bushing from the intake manifold stud.
• Disconnect the exhaust air intake pipe and remove it from the lower intake air studs.
• Unscrew the top nut and loosen the bottom nut a little on the bar.

Note. It holds the antifreeze pump tubes for cooling. The bar at the bottom has a through slot; carefully remove it.

The intake manifold is mounted on studs, so you need to unscrew one nut on top and 2 on the side. To remove the exhaust manifold, you need to unscrew an additional 2 nuts. You need to carefully inspect the connection point, since 2 gaskets are installed between the manifold and the block head.

Note

When dismantling the intake manifold, pay attention to the gaskets. If the gasket burns out, antifreeze can get into the cylinder block.

There may be holes drilled by antifreeze on the head of the blocks, and there may also be holes in the gasket.

• Antifreeze may leak into valves and cylinders. In this case, you need to remove it from there using a syringe. Unscrew the spark plugs (see Replacing spark plugs on a VAZ 2110 on your own) and crank them with the starter to remove any antifreeze that gets there. If grooves are found on the surface, the collector must be replaced.
• At the bottom, the exhaust manifold is attached to the exhaust pipe. Then it is connected to the exhaust pipe. Unscrew the three bolts and disconnect the pipe. Remove the collector. You need to unscrew them from the inspection hole and first tap the heads. Use a metal brush to clean the nuts and threads.
• During assembly, replace all gaskets with new ones one by one. It is advisable to tighten the nuts during assembly using a special wrench. Also replace the injector O-rings with new ones.

Gaskets are sold in sets, the cost of one is from 300 rubles. The cost of the exhaust manifold is 1,700 rubles. If the replacement is carried out at a service station or car service station, the repair will cost around 3,500 rubles plus the cost of a set of gaskets and a manifold. When doing your own repairs to replace the exhaust manifold, you must carefully and scrupulously read the instructions. Also view video clips and photos.

Note: photographs must be arranged in order of work. As repair processes are completed, fold them in reverse order. Once you've finished disassembling, turn the stack of photos over. Reassemble in reverse order. Before assembly, the nuts must be lubricated with graphite thread lubricant, and the threads of all bushings must also be lubricated. Thoroughly clean the installation areas of the gaskets from inclusions and foreign contents.

By doing the work yourself, you can save a lot of money, because the price of repairs in special workshops and service stations is very high and not everyone can afford to pay the cost.

In this article I will tell you how to remove the exhaust manifold from VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 cars that are equipped with 16 valve engines. So, the first thing you need to do is remove the engine exhaust pipe, then, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the heat shield and remove it.

After this, using the same 13mm wrench, you need to unscrew the two nuts that hold the coolant pump supply pipe and remove it.

Now you can move on to the exhaust manifold; again, using a 13mm wrench, you need to unscrew the 8 nuts that secure the manifold to the cylinder head.

That's all, nothing complicated, now you can remove the exhaust manifold and its gasket from the engine. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Sources

• https://avtgid.ru/zamena-vpusknogo-i-vypusknogo-kollektora-na-vaz-2110.html
• https://masteravaza.ru/tyuning-3/raznoe/vaz-2110-zamena-vypusknogo-kollektora-663
• https://vazkorch.ru/dvigatel-lada/snyatie-vypusknogo-kollektora-vaz-2112-16-klapanov.html

Causes of malfunctions

The gasket is placed between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head. The stamped asbestos gasket is resistant to high temperatures, can be compressed (creating the necessary impermeability) and has increased strength. To enhance the latter quality, the exhaust manifold gaskets are additionally reinforced with steel.

IMPORTANT! The main task of the gasket is to prevent exhaust gases from penetrating under the hood, where they can cause ignition of parts/assemblies of the engine compartment.

The gasket is recognized as the most vulnerable point of the exhaust manifold, which operates under extreme loads in both temperature and pressure. It is not surprising that gaskets have to be changed not only on cars with significant mileage, but also on almost new cars.

Gaskets need to be rotated for several reasons:

• poor factory quality;
• engine overheating due to intensive use;
• engine repair (a used gasket loses its properties when dismantled).

How to change the main muffler

Small fistulas on the body, located in accessible places, are usually eliminated using a gas welding machine or semi-automatic device. Sealing in another way will give a temporary result - gas pressure and high temperature will render any clamp or adhesive patch unusable. To weld a stainless steel muffler, appropriate qualifications are required.

If you do not have the necessary equipment and skills, it is better to replace the worn-out spare part with a new one. The operation is not complicated, and special devices are not needed either. For a beginner, the procedure will take no more than 3 hours.

Preparation of tools and workplace

Since the muffler is located under the car, disassembly requires an inspection ditch in the garage, an overpass in an open area, or a lift. It is extremely inconvenient to remove a part lying on the ground under the car. The main difficulty is to separate 2 sections in this position, whose pipes are inserted into one another and become strongly stuck during operation. Therefore, it is not recommended to change a muffler without a pit.

To complete the work, you will need the usual tools:

To make it easier to unscrew stuck threaded connections and disconnect pipes, it is worth purchasing WD-40 type lubricant in an aerosol can with a tube.

During operation, the rubber suspensions stretch, causing the body to begin to dangle in a horizontal plane. Hence the advice: change the rubber products along with the exhaust element; the kit is inexpensive (about 100 rubles).

Replacement procedure

Before starting work, you should place the “seven” in the pit and wait 20-40 minutes, depending on the air temperature in the workplace. The exhaust tract, which is heated by the engine, must cool down, otherwise you will get burns even through gloves.

Dismantling the old muffler is carried out in the following order:

Many Zhiguli owners have not used a long screw to secure the rear cushion for a long time, because the threads become sour from rust and do not want to unscrew. It is much easier to insert a nail or electrode with a diameter of 3-4 mm instead of a screw and bend the ends.

If sections of the exhaust system cannot be disconnected, use the suggested disassembly methods:

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Install rubber bands on the new spare part, lubricate the mating surfaces with grease and place the muffler pipe on top of the resonator. Make sure that the pipe is seated all the way, then put on and tighten the clamp.

Repairing minor damage without welding

If small holes have formed on the pipe or muffler body due to corrosion, they can be temporarily sealed and the service life of the part can be extended by 1-3 thousand km. It will not be possible to weld the defects - the metal surrounding the holes has probably already rotted.

For work you will need the following materials:

It is not necessary to remove the muffler; proceed as necessary. If the defect cannot be reached otherwise, carefully dismantle the element. Perform sealing according to the instructions:

A tin clamp is made by double bending the ends of the workpiece. To avoid mistakes during the repair process, first practice on any pipe. When the sealant hardens, start the engine and make sure that the clamp does not allow gases to pass through.

Typically, the lower wall of the muffler tank rusts from the inside under the influence of aggressive condensate. There is an “old-fashioned” method for solving the problem - a hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm is specially drilled at the lowest point. The sound of the engine will remain virtually unchanged, but water will stop accumulating inside the tank.

Video: how to seal an exhaust without welding

Signs of a burnt gasket

The easiest way is for the owner of a car with an injection engine, the operation of which is monitored by an ECU (electronic control unit). It sends a signal about a gasket failure to the dashboard, where the Check light comes on. This means that the lambda probe, which is usually equipped with the manifold, detected a change in the volume of oxygen in the exhaust, informing the ECU. The engine begins to operate in emergency mode until the defect is eliminated.

“Symptoms” of a burnt gasket:

• the engine is unstable;
• makes an uncharacteristic sound during operation;
• The cabin smells like exhaust gases.

ATTENTION! The fact that the exhaust manifold gasket has burned out is indicated by a recognizable chirping sound created by gases that break through the seal. Motorists often say that the engine “cuts.”

Exhausts through ventilation and heating systems quickly penetrate into the cabin, which is fraught not only with a deterioration of the microclimate, but also with negative consequences for health. This is why replacing the exhaust manifold gasket becomes a forced but necessary measure.

Replacing the gasket

The marker of a failed gasket is considered to be soot that forms in the place where the exhaust escapes. In this case, proceed to replacing the defective seal.

What is needed for repair

To replace the exhaust manifold gasket, prepare the following materials and tools:

• screwdrivers (slotted and Phillips);
• sharp knife or spatula (remove used gasket);
• spanners included;
• anti-rust liquid (for example, WD-40);
• 5 liter wide-neck container (for draining antifreeze);
• dry rags.

ATTENTION! When replacing the manifold gasket on a VAZ 2114 (as on other factory models), it is necessary to drain the antifreeze in advance, otherwise the engine intake windows can be flooded.

Step by Step Actions

The process of replacing a seal when it fails is simple, but has nuances for different engines. In general terms, the algorithm for dismantling and subsequent installation of the VK gasket looks like this:

1. Open the hood and remove the air intake with the carburetor, under which there is a manifold.
2. Remove the thermal screen covering the VC (some older models do not have a screen).
3. Unscrew the bolts that attach the spider to the exhaust pipe, and then the bolts connecting it to the engine block.
4. Proceed to removing the exhaust manifold itself, on which sits a burnt-out gasket, which often “sticks” to the VC.
5. Carefully clean the area between the cylinder head and the manifold with a spatula, removing carbon deposits and fragments of worn gasket from the second.
6. Once the area is shiny, coat it with graphite lubricant and install a new gasket.
7. Treat the fasteners with the same lubricant (to prevent corrosion).

Finally, return all dismantled parts to their rightful places.

Replacing the gasket VAZ 2114

First, remove the engine protection from the car standing on the overpass, having previously drained the antifreeze, and then proceed as follows:

1. Remove the air filter, having first disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.
2. The fuel pipes with the accelerator cable are disconnected from the throttle.
3. Disable the idle speed/throttle sensors.
4. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation and brake booster hoses, turning off the receiver.
5. Remove the latter by disconnecting the wires at the injection control unit.
6. Dismantle the fuel rail without unscrewing the injectors.
7. The receiving pipe is detached from the VC.
8. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds one by one.
9. Remove the old gasket.
10. Clean the joint between the manifold and the cylinder head with a knife.
11. Install a new gasket and perform reverse installation.
12. Fill in coolant.

The exhaust manifold gasket will last a long time if you use quality fuel and monitor antifreeze levels to prevent engine overheating. You also check the reliability of the joint between the cylinder head and the cylinder head and immediately change the gasket if you notice its malfunction. In addition, you need to buy gaskets from reputable manufacturers.

Preparation stages

To replace the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But before you get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preparatory steps. Namely, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first stage does not help.

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Dismantling the unit

All dismantling work must be carried out only on a cold engine. To make it easy to unscrew all fasteners, you can pre-treat them with WD40, several hours or even a day before the repair begins.

Part selection

21083-1008081 – original catalog number of the gasket for the intake and exhaust manifold. It consists of two parts or, on newer models, one. This part is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. The average cost is 250 rubles per piece (if there are two of them) or 450 rubles (for a whole one).

One-piece manifold gasket A gasket that consists of two parts A one-piece gasket and one that consists of two parts together

In addition to the fact that there is an original part, you can also find a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Let's consider which gaskets can be installed under the VAZ-2114 manifolds:

• Trialli GZ 102 0013 is a well-known Russian manufacturer that produces a wide range of analog parts for domestically produced cars. The cost of the gasket is 200 rubles per piece.
• AJUSA 13065200 is another domestic manufacturer that has won consumers over the quality of its products. The cost of the product is 450 rubles.
• Ukrainian also produces and supplies this gasket. But, if you look at it, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, since the resource is designed for only 20,000 km.

Required tool for replacement

Before you begin the process itself, you need to decide on the necessary tools. To remove the exhaust manifold on a VAZ 2114 in order to replace the gasket or entire part, you will need the following tool:

• open-end and ring wrenches for 8, 10, 13, 17;
• wrench with heads 17, 19;
• screwdrivers, pliers.

It is also a good idea to have tools such as a Dremel, nut saw or nut pick on hand. As a rule, the fasteners on the exhaust system parts stick tightly.

A few days before your planned repair, begin treating accessible nuts with WD-40 or another penetrating lubricant. Repeat the operation 2-3 times. This will make the task of removing the manifold a little easier .

The question often arises: is it worth using a sealant after removing and replacing the gasket? Experts believe that if you apply sealant to the gasket, it should only be high-quality silicone. A bad sealant can bring a lot of trouble to a VAZ 2114 engine: when it burns out, it turns into “pellets” that are pulled into the crankcase. And this is unnecessary contamination of the piston system.

Now that everything is prepared, you can start working directly. In order for the manifold to be removed without any problems and rusted bolts not to create trouble, everything must be lubricated with WD-40 before performing the operation. It is advisable to do this several times. Before performing the operation, you need to think again, weigh everything and calculate your strength.

Replacement of exhaust manifold gasket VAZ-2114 8 valves

I decided to solve the problem with the sound that was in the previous post. I stopped by the station, the man listened and said that the manifold gasket needs to be changed, there is a sound, and it’s because of the “clatter”, I asked how much it would cost to replace the gasket? They told me that the price would be 3800-4500, here I’m a bit of an ass, previously 2800-3500 for a pant liner, but now 4000 for a manifold. Okay, I understand, I went to the store, took the gasket, the price turned out to be 170 rubles, the original one, I thought it would be more expensive, but oh well. I chose a day and went to the garage, watched some videos on how to change this gasket, but everywhere they wrote that you don’t need to change it yourself, it’s very dangerous, etc. My arms grow straight, so I’ll do it myself. But unfortunately, I didn’t find a detailed example for beginners with photographs, so I decided to make one, because you never know, it will be useful for someone. Let’s start:

Attention, I will immediately warn you that when you unscrew the manifold, do not under any circumstances allow your nuts or washer, no matter what, to fall into the intake and exhaust holes!

Ramp

Replacing the cathode collector on a VAZ 2110
The ramp is removed as an assembly with the fuel pressure regulator:

• It is necessary to disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
• Using 2 open-end wrenches 17, unscrew the fittings securing the gasoline supply pipes to reduce pressure.
• Disconnect the ramp voltage connector.
• Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the bracket for fastening the gasoline supply and outlet pipes and disconnect it.
• Using a No. 5 hexagon, unscrew the 2 screws for fastening the ramp.
• Pull the ramp in the axial direction of the injector from the seat, remove the ramp towards the left side of the hood.

Note: follow the direction of travel of the vehicle.

Replacement cathode collector for VAZ 2110

• Unscrew the nut from the left intake manifold bracket and loosen the lower bolt.
• Remove the bracket from it.
• Perform the same operation with the right bracket and remove it.
• Unscrew the 2 nuts from the eye stud.

Removing the eye

• Unscrew the 3 nuts from the receiver bracket and remove it.
• Carefully remove the bushing from the intake manifold stud.
• Disconnect the exhaust air intake pipe and remove it from the lower intake air studs.
• Unscrew the top nut and loosen the bottom nut a little on the bar.

Note. It holds the antifreeze pump tubes for cooling. The bar at the bottom has a through slot; carefully remove it.

Replacement cat collector for VAZ 2110

The intake manifold is mounted on studs, so you need to unscrew one nut on top and 2 on the side. To remove the exhaust manifold, you need to unscrew an additional 2 nuts. You need to carefully inspect the connection point, since 2 gaskets are installed between the manifold and the block head.

Note

When dismantling the intake manifold, pay attention to the gaskets. If the gasket burns out, antifreeze can get into the cylinder block.

There may be holes drilled by antifreeze on the head of the blocks, and there may also be holes in the gasket.

Replacement cat collector for VAZ 2110

• Antifreeze may leak into valves and cylinders. In this case, you need to remove it from there using a syringe. Unscrew the spark plugs (see Replacing spark plugs on a VAZ 2110 on your own) and crank them with the starter to remove any antifreeze that gets there. If grooves are found on the surface, the collector must be replaced.
• At the bottom, the exhaust manifold is attached to the exhaust pipe. Then it is connected to the exhaust pipe. Unscrew the three bolts and disconnect the pipe. Remove the collector. You need to unscrew them from the inspection hole and first tap the heads. Use a metal brush to clean the nuts and threads.
• During assembly, replace all gaskets with new ones one by one. It is advisable to tighten the nuts during assembly using a special wrench. Also replace the injector O-rings with new ones.

Gaskets are sold in sets, the cost of one is from 300 rubles. The cost of the exhaust manifold is 1,700 rubles. If the replacement is carried out at a service station or car service station, the repair will cost around 3,500 rubles plus the cost of a set of gaskets and a manifold. When doing your own repairs to replace the exhaust manifold, you must carefully and scrupulously read the instructions. Also view video clips and photos.

Note: photographs must be arranged in order of work. As repair processes are completed, fold them in reverse order. Once you've finished disassembling, turn the stack of photos over. Reassemble in reverse order. Before assembly, the nuts must be lubricated with graphite thread lubricant, and the threads of all bushings must also be lubricated. Thoroughly clean the installation areas of the gaskets from inclusions and foreign contents.

By doing the work yourself, you can save a lot of money, because the price of repairs in special workshops and service stations is very high and not everyone can afford to pay the cost.

The main signs and causes of failure of the VAZ 2114 intake manifold

• The main symptom of a failed intake manifold is a sudden loss of car engine power.
• at the same time, there is an increase in fuel consumption , with a deterioration in traction and a drop in engine performance.

It is important to determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it in time.

1. Often a problem is indicated by a missing stud in one of the manifold flanges. It simply comes off when the collector goes “screw”, that is, due to temperature changes, for example in winter, or over time (average service life is 7 years), the collector begins to bend along the plane, and the pin simply “spits out”, pulls out .
2. Due to the fact that the manifold has “leaded”, a crack may form and, as a result, exhaust gases from the engine escape, and the manifold must be replaced.

Before changing the gasket, make sure that all the studs are in place. When you remove the manifold, you also need to check the flatness of the exhaust manifold, because often these areas require grinding or replacing the entire part.

Manifold flaps often fail. This happens for several reasons: low-quality material used to make these dampers, too high a temperature, and the presence of oil condensate.

A sign that oil has entered the intake manifold is increased oil consumption.

• The control valve for these dampers may also fail.

What are swirl flaps used for?

As you know, it is not the fuel itself that burns in the cylinder, nor the air. The air-fuel mixture is burning. And the more homogeneous this mixture is, the better it burns, the higher the efficiency and economy of the engine. Accordingly, the question arises: what is the best way to mix this very fuel in the cylinder? Nozzles that supply fuel not with one large and thick stream, but even with a dozen small streams protrude from one side. And on the other side we have air supplied. And if this air is applied with force, and even at a tricky angle, you get a whirlwind. Which will mix everything perfectly and burn just as well.

But then the engineers faced a question: if they make the hole for the air supply narrow, then at low speeds the vortices will be excellent. But when the speed increases, too much air deficiency will form and too much energy will be spent on its supply. If you make the hole wide enough to operate at medium and high speeds, then there will be no swirl at low speeds, and the engine efficiency will again decrease.

Therefore, for optimal engine operation in all modes, the air supply was divided into 2 parts. In one part there are no dampers, and it is always freely blown, while the second part has the same damper that is completely closed at low revs and opens wider the higher the revs.

The figure shows a diagram of the operation of swirl flaps at low speeds. Air is supplied through only one channel. The second channel is completely closed.

As the engine speed increases and the engine requires more air, the second damper gradually opens slightly, controlling the strength of the air flow. A fully open throttle at high speeds is shown in the figure below:

The position of the swirl flaps is controlled by an integrated sensor and a corresponding drive that changes the angle of inclination of these flaps.