Perhaps the most important components in any car are the engine and gearbox. But an equally important element is the clutch. It is located between the engine and transmission and serves to transmit torque from the flywheel to the input shaft. Clutch can be of several types - dry and wet.
What is the cost of a clutch on a VAZ-2110? It belongs to the first category and is single-disc. The design is quite simple and reliable, but over time it can cause problems. So, let's look at the causes of malfunctions and a description of the process of replacing the clutch on a VAZ-2110.
VAZ 2110 - clutch: possible faults and their elimination. Replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch
Perhaps the most important components in any car are the engine and gearbox.
But an equally important element is the clutch. It is located between the engine and transmission and serves to transmit torque from the flywheel to the input shaft. Clutch can be of several types - dry and wet. What is the cost of a clutch on a VAZ-2110? It belongs to the first category and is single-disc. The design is quite simple and reliable, but over time it can cause problems. So, let's look at the causes of malfunctions and a description of the process of replacing the clutch on a VAZ-2110.
Device
First, let's delve into the design of this unit. In addition to the driven disk itself, the system also includes:
- Clutch switch.
- Pressure disk.
- Drive (the clutch cable is installed on the VAZ-2110).
- Fork.
- Release bearing.
- Basket.
The operating principle of the system is based on tight compression of the friction surfaces of the disc and flywheel linings, which transmits torque from the crankshaft. To change gears to a lower or higher gear, the driver depresses the clutch pedal on the VAZ-2110, thereby moving the disc away from the flywheel using a cable drive and fork.
Incomplete inclusion
A characteristic symptom is that the transmission is difficult to engage or does not engage at all. May be accompanied by a strong crunch even with the pedal fully depressed. There are several reasons for this failure:
- Deformation or damage to the driven disk.
- Worn clutch fork.
- Incorrectly adjusted cable drive.
- Worn diaphragm springs on the clutch disc.
- Insufficient pedal travel.
- Lack of lubrication in the bearing guide sleeve.
- Different adjustment of pressure plate levers.
Vibration
Does your VAZ-2110 vibrate when you engage a gear? In this case, the clutch disc may be very worn. Vibrations are also caused by an incorrectly secured gearbox (if it is repaired and removed) or a loose engine mount. In the latter case, gearbox misalignment may occur. Because of this, the shafts coincide asymmetrically with each other. The elastic springs of the driven disc also lose their elasticity and the clutch linings warp.
Why is the clutch on the VAZ-2110 noisy? This malfunction no longer occurs due to the disk (except in the case of weakened springs), but due to a worn bearing. The main one is the release one.
Troubleshooting
So, let's examine the external condition of the disk. It should not have any traces of carbon deposits or play in the springs. We also look at the petals of the basket. They should not be too bent inward. You should also remove the release bearing. Twirl it with your finger and listen to its work. If it makes noise when rotating, it is already worn out. It is worth noting that the bearings eliminate any noise.
Even if it is barely noticeable, over time it will develop into a real hum. Therefore, in order not to disassemble the box again, we also replace the release bearing with a new one. When installing, it is important not to mix up the sides. As for the lubricant, it is already placed in the cage by the manufacturer. But sometimes companies skimp on lubricants for bearings, which is why they wear out by 30 thousand. For better confidence, you should purchase a specialized lubricant (for example, from VMP-auto) and treat the clip with it again. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Let's get started
So, we drive the car into the pit and block the rear wheels by holding the parking brake lever. We reset the box itself to “neutral”. Next, we tear off the wheel bolts and raise the front left part of the car. After removing the wheel, you will need to unscrew the bolts securing the lower ball joint. You should also remove the mass air flow sensor and the clamp securing its pipe. We also take out the air filter. Next, remove the clutch cable from the fork. To do this, loosen the two nuts that attach the cable to the bracket on the transmission. After this, remove the negative terminal from the battery and unscrew the starter mounting bolt. Nearby, unscrew the gearbox mounting bolt using a 19 mm wrench with an extension. Remove the upper starter mount and remove the chip from the speed sensor. We also unscrew the speedometer cable, which is installed in the box.
Dismantling
Most often you need to remove the gearbox, especially if you need a replacement rather than just an adjustment. It is not necessary to drain the oil from the box.
To determine whether the link is malfunctioning, it is recommended to read the following material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/transmissiya/kulisa.html
- Disconnect the battery;
- Remove the air filter;
- Disconnect the wiring harness;
- Raise the car, then loosen the clutch drive nut (on the right) and unscrew it completely on the left;
- Remove the suspension arm, ball joint;
- Remove the lower engine protection;
- Disconnect the transmission linkage;
- Remove the clutch housing and inspect it carefully. The main defects that the crankcase may have are cracks, wear of the threads or paws with which it is attached. New threads can be cut, cracks can be welded, thus returning the crankcase to working condition;
- After jacking up the engine, remove the gearbox, gaining full access to the clutch elements.
It is also possible to replace the clutch without completely removing the gearbox:
After repairs, you may notice that the clutch is too tight. But this is easy to fix without disassembling the entire system - from the interior side, by adjusting the pedal travel.
Source
How to renew?
The main factor influencing clutch life is driving style. To save the disk, you need to avoid high loads. Do not start driving at high speeds (with slipping) and do not overload the vehicle itself. The last factor also applies to those who like to drive with a trailer. Remember that every kilogram from the trailer loads the gearbox and clutch components. Do not tow vehicles that exceed your curb weight. These factors directly affect the life of the clutch disc. Using a careful driving style, you can increase the capabilities of this element to 150 thousand kilometers or more. In sports driving mode and other loads, even the highest quality VAZ 2110 clutch, the price of which is quite high, will not last even 40 thousand kilometers.
Source
When adjustment is needed
You need to send the car to the garage and start adjusting the clutch system of your VAZ 2110 as soon as you notice signs of deviation from the normal operation of the unit.
The clutch greatly affects the performance of the entire car. What can we say, without it you will not be able to engage a single gear. Therefore, you will not be able to go anywhere.
The pedal may be too tight or fall apart at the slightest pressure. Both situations indicate that the clutch needs to be adjusted.
In general, the work is carried out in two stages:
- Clutch travel is checked;
- The setup itself is carried out directly.
But the first thing you should start with is studying the most important tool for repairing all components, assemblies and mechanisms of the VAZ 2110. Of course, we are talking about the instruction manual. Open it at the clutch section, study the main nuances, understand the essence of the unit, its design, operating principle, and then become familiar with the adjustment process.
Now we will talk about two main setup steps.
Clutch diseases
VAZ 2110 clutch malfunction and disc replacement
Let's start with the fact that the VAZ 2110 clutch is always associated with a certain list of problems known to specialists. What clutch malfunctions exist are presented below:
- The car's clutch slips and does not engage fully. As a result, it may be impossible or very difficult to change gears, especially first and reverse.
- When you press the clutch pedal sharply, the engine begins to gain speed, but the car does not accelerate. This situation is especially dangerous when overtaking, when the driver, not knowing about the faulty clutch, tries to overtake the vehicle in front.
Reasons why the pedal goes to the floor with a hydraulic drive
If the clutch drive is hydraulic, as on classic VAZ, Ford Focus 2, Volkswagen Passat, Skoda Octavia, Peugeot 206, Fiat Ducato, Scudo from 2000, most likely the system is simply airy. In this case, it requires bleeding, like any brake circuit. This is done according to the same principle as bleeding the simplest brake system. The purpose of bleeding is to completely remove air from the system. The fluid used is exactly the same as in the brake system. On the Audi 80, for example, the main hydraulic cylinder is directly connected to the pedal, and the working cylinder is installed in the crankcase.
Bleeding the system will take two minutes; the main thing is not to forget to add fluid to the tank to the maximum level. In hydraulic clutch drives, a leak will indicate a malfunction. So, on the Mazda 6, the drive hose is located under the battery platform, so some flexibility may be required to detect a leak. But there are no unsolvable problems. If you approach any problem wisely, it will be solved in no time, and we will gain valuable experience.
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Malfunctions and their treatment
Below are all the symptoms of a faulty clutch and methods of treatment.
Clutch slipping
Let's start with the most common symptom, when the clutch slips or does not engage fully. The engine starts to gain speed, but the car does not accelerate. This is especially noticeable by the driver of the vehicle when driving uphill and on slopes. In this case, you may even smell the friction linings, as if the brake pads are faulty. Plus, fuel consumption increases significantly. So, the situation described above can occur due to the following faults:
- the flywheel, pressure plate or linings may become oily;
- The friction linings of the disc may be severely worn out or burnt;
- The clutch drive may be damaged.
Oiling
VAZ 2110 signs of clutch malfunction - flywheel oiling
In order to “cure” the clutch if the flywheel, linings or disc are oily, you will have to do the following:
- take white alcohol or gasoline;
- Thoroughly rinse oily surfaces with this product.
Note. If the driven disk or HP is very oily, then it would be better to replace it, since cleaning will not help in this case.
Wear or burning of FN
If the friction linings are worn out, the FN is short, or they show signs of burning, then the following should be done:
- replace the HP assembly, since nothing else will help.
Clutch drive
If the clutch drive sticks or is damaged, you need to:
- eliminate the cause of jamming;
- replace the drive if the first method does not help.
Clutch not fully disengaging
VAZ 2110 clutch slips
It is also a fairly common symptom when the clutch is slipping. In this case, it is always difficult to change gears, mainly, as mentioned above, first gear or reverse. In addition, a characteristic noise is heard when switching on, but the gearbox is fully operational.
Incorrect clutch adjustment
The most common reason. In this case you need:
- adjust the clutch drive;
- replace the deformed fork.
Clutch cable gets stuck
VAZ 2110 clutch slips
- lubricate the clutch cable with engine oil or other means;
- If it doesn’t help, and the cable is too frayed, replace it.
Loosening of FN rivets or warping of the clutch HP
In this case, the only solution that will help is to replace the disk.
Seizure on the flywheel surface
- if severe and uneven wear is observed, replace the flywheel;
- if the pressure disk is damaged, then the casing along with the disk assembly should be replaced (in simple words, replace the basket).
