Why doesn't the starter on the VAZ-2112 turn or click?


The wiring diagram for hatchbacks 2112 is a unique thing in itself. In order for voltage to appear on the solenoid relay, the following parts must be in good working order: the ignition switch, the ECU unit and two more relays - the main and additional ones. Some cars do not have an additional relay, which can be considered good luck. But, if when you turn the key on a VAZ-2112 the starter does not turn, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. A broken immobilizer code can also cause problems. The last malfunction can be cured by replacing the ECU or disabling the immobilizer. Well, let's look at something simpler.

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with an additional starter relay Please note: relay K2 is not at all “unloading”. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery. The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Circuit without additional relay There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

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The starter doesn't turn, what happens?

We know that there are two variants of the scheme. If “option 2” is implemented, voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the lock. But the ignition switch in the “Tens” is short-lived, since 30-40 Amperes are transmitted through it (the current of the solenoid relay).

This is true for both the sedan and the 2112 hatchback, and the starter may not turn only because the lock is broken. Draw your conclusions!

All of the above also applies to “diagram 1” - look at it carefully. The main relay is located in the extension block. It is located under the stove on the right.

An additional relay is located in the main unit (see photo). However, it may be missing.

If “option 2” is implemented, check only the lock. And if there is an additional relay, it is not recommended to install a jumper instead. Marked in the photo:

  • Additional relay (white arrow);
  • Main relay (element “6”).

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Car engine starting mechanism

The car engine starting mechanism is a system that requires special attention and is directly responsible for starting the engine itself.

Modern cars are predominantly equipped with a starter engine starting system. The triggering mechanism is directly related to electrical equipment.

The mechanism is powered by direct current from the car battery. The trigger mechanism includes the following elements.

  1. Connecting wires.
  2. Starter.
  3. Egnition lock (

Is the problem caused by the alarm?

A blocking relay can be installed in the starter circuit when installing an alarm system. And many alarms need to meet certain conditions in order to remove the blocking. The simplest thing: the on-board voltage must be greater than 11 Volts.

Alarm with a blocking relay Conclusion: the starter may not operate when cold if the battery is discharged and an alarm is installed on the car. So, we remove the battery, charge it and install it back.

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Rotor winding faults

The simplest way to check the serviceability of the starter is to apply current from the battery directly to the power contact, bypassing the traction relay. This will allow you to find out how the electric motor behaves and whether it shows any signs of life.

But before checking the functionality of the battery starter, try to use only thick copper stranded wires with good insulation.

If the rotor does not rotate, you will have to check it too. The following malfunctions most often occur:

The easiest way to make repairs is to install a new rotor. Rewinding the winding is problematic, since it is difficult to find a suitable wire.

Final check before replacing the starter

We turn the key to position II, and nothing happens... In this case, open the hood and remove the air filter by unscrewing the screw on the body and loosening the clamp on the pipe. The starter is located under the filter housing. In the photo we see the following: someone disconnected the solenoid relay cord.

What we found under the filter, we check with a needle probe that when you turn the key, “+12” appears. Then, after checking, we wrap the cord with electrical tape.

Sometimes voltage seems to be supplied to the starter, but the solenoid relay is activated “every time”. Well, try cleaning the terminal - both in the connector and on the starter itself. Consider the situation:

  • The copper is polished to a shine;
  • The wire (see photo) is supplied with “plus”;
  • The starter doesn't even click.

The first thing you need to check is the battery contacts. We remove the terminals (key “10”) and look at what is under them. There is no point in measuring the voltage with a probe - it will show “12 Volts”.

Solenoid relay current – ​​40 Amperes. The presence of a resistance of 0.1 Ohm results in a voltage drop of 4 Volts. So consider... And the starter motor consumes 200 Amperes during operation.

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Posts 1 to 20 of 27

1 Topic by Dimon 2014-07-09 21:16:16 (2014-07-09 21:19:08 edited by Dimon)

  • Daimon
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Topic: Solved: When you turn the key, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn

Gentlemen, hello everyone! I’m from 2112.ru, but I didn’t find a solution to the problem there

In short, the problem is like many others in this topic. You turn the key to start, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn, even the retractor does not click. I tried to measure the voltage on the red wire when turning the key, there is voltage, 12.5 volts. At first I made a mistake with the retractor, but with a screwdriver (by bridging the contacts on the starter) the car starts perfectly. That is, the starter is completely alive. The problem does not appear every time and appears mainly when it is hot. That is, you turned off the car, for example, went to the store for 5 minutes, came back, and it wouldn’t start. I have to get under the hood with a screwdriver.

Guys, where to dig. Shall we think together? The voltage at the moment of turning the key seems to come to the starter (this means the ignition switch is alive), it starts with a screwdriver (this means the starter is alive). Why doesn’t the key turn or even click?

2 Reply from igorek 2014-07-09 21:22:59

  • igorek
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  • Car: VAZ-21102 1.5i-8V Bosch MP7.0H

Re: Solved: When you turn the key, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn

Daimon , come here with your problem, it was discussed here. The starter does not turn when the engine is warm (after a trip)

3 Reply from Dimon 2014-07-09 21:41:20

  • Daimon
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Re: Solved: When you turn the key, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn

igorek , I know about additional relays, additional buttons and other “crutches”. But these are crutches! I want to figure out the problem so that everything works as expected. And on all sites it usually ends up installing additional. relay

(

4 Reply from iliaBkmz 2014-07-09 21:48:40

  • iliaBkmz
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Re: Solved: When you turn the key, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn

the Daimon starts with a screwdriver, but not with the key, then it most likely needs to be changed. Moreover, if +12 comes to the small wire - in the start position. But it’s also worth checking the condition of the terminals on the battery and the condition of the terminals on the retractor.

5 Reply from Dimon 2014-07-09 21:52:15 (2014-07-09 21:52:48 edited by Dimon)

  • Daimon
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  • Car: VAZ 2112

Re: Solved: When you turn the key, the lights go out, but the starter does not turn

iliaBkmz , and how to explain this? The retractor doesn’t like +12 coming from the wire, but at the same time likes +12 from the screwdriver?

Chemistry

ASIDOL - cleans coins, but is also perfect for wires and their chips. No need to clean copper with WD-40 - after that everything will only get worse. Special equipment needed:

  • Ammonia;
  • ASIDOL (Lenbytkhim LLC) - excellent, by the way, also polishes glass;
  • Molykote S-1002;
  • Kontakt 60 or 100 (acid) and WL (wash);
  • CRAMOLIN ContaClean (acid).

CRAMOLIN requires a remover. It's easier to take an eraser and ammonia.

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Where is he located

This question is asked by those who have just become the proud owner of a vehicle. In most cases, people think about its location under the hood when it starts acting up, or by those who like to tinker with the car themselves in the garage.

Regardless of the type of engine and its location under the hood, manual or automatic transmission, the starter is located in close proximity to the box, partially bolted to it.

Remember, when we looked at the principle of operation of the clutch, such a part as the “flywheel” was mentioned. It is connected to the crankshaft of the engine, and through it and the clutch, torque is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox. It is shaped like a large gear and is connected to the starter with its teeth. Therefore, you can always find it near the gearbox, because through the Bendix mechanism (we’ll talk about this “beast” later) rotation is transmitted to the flywheel gear, and from it to the engine crankshaft.

Before talking about the principles of operation, let's look at what it consists of.

Why doesn't the starter turn over?

Depending on what caused the starter to fail, it is necessary to take the next steps - repair or replace the unit. In addition, in some cases, you do not need to repair the starting device itself, but manipulate other components. In most cases, you can get by with repairs, but experienced car enthusiasts recommend immediately replacing the unit so that there are no more problems with it.

  1. Most VAZ-2110s do not have a standard injector, but many car enthusiasts install this unit themselves. It helps reduce fuel consumption, helps start the engine in cold weather without warming up and increases power. The injector fails, and along with it the starter, due to low-quality fuel. Another reason may be failure to follow the connection diagram, but then you will discover a malfunction immediately after installing the injector. Otherwise, you need to flush the injector to remove any suspended matter that is carried into it by the fuel.
  2. If the car starts, but after a short stop the engine cannot be restarted, then the problem lies in the overrunning clutch. At the moment of failure, you may hear clicking sounds from under the hood and notice that the car radio begins to turn on by itself. In this case, you need to cool the power unit before restarting or not make short stops. You will also need to replace the overrunning clutch with its geared counterpart. Be sure to check the conductors that come from this node. Sometimes, to restore the functionality of the coupling, it is enough to replace the wires that visually look damaged.
  3. The retractor part of the starter especially often fails. When such a breakdown occurs, the dashboard lights first light up and then go out. Before replacing the solenoid relay, you must close the starter and turn off the alarm. If the listed components are in working order, then you will simply have to replace the relay.
  4. Clicking sounds in the starter and failure to start the engine are often caused by damaged contacts. In this case, first inspect the battery, clean the terminals if oxide appears on them. Sometimes on a VAZ-2110 it is enough to tap the starter relay to get rid of the problem. Be sure to take an assistant with you who will start the engine while you tap the relay. If with such a rough approach it was possible to start the engine, then it is worth replacing the relay completely. Repair will be impractical.
  5. An unexpected engine stop is caused by problems with the immobilizer. You will not be able to start the engine because the protection is triggered. This only happens on injection VAZ-2110s. It is impossible to fix the problem on your own; call a tow truck and go to the nearest service station, where they will be able to restore your car’s functionality.

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Failure of spark plugs

The first thing you should think about after checking the presence of power and the ignition switch is the integrity of the spark plugs. Because even if there is a spark, they may not work correctly. Checking them is quite simple:

  • the spark plug is unscrewed from its socket using a special key;
  • one of the candlesticks is put on it;
  • Next you need to “turn” the starter.

The spark between the central and side electrodes must be blue. If it is red or completely absent, the spark plug must be replaced. This part is a consumable item. According to the regulations, regardless of the recommendations of the manufacturer of the spark plugs themselves, they must be replaced every 10 thousand km.

Replacing the VAZ 2112 starter relay if necessary

How to accurately determine that the starter needs to be replaced

It is not always worth wasting your time to fix a faulty starting device with minor or partial repairs. Large-scale troubleshooting is often impractical at this site. Before removing, let alone disassembling, the starter, you need to remember three signs when you should rush to purchase new spare parts:

  1. When you turn the key in the ignition, you hear a grinding noise in the engine compartment area. This directly indicates a malfunction of the bendix (overrunning clutch) or flywheel. It is these parts that need to be replaced.
  2. Clicking noises when the starter fails to operate means the relay is faulty.
  3. A strained engine start is evidence of failure of the starter brushes.

The most common cause of clicking sounds in the starter is considered to be a failure of the retractor. The relay is not that expensive, and you can also try to fix it yourself. This will require a lot of effort, but will save you from replacing the unit. Just remember that this is a temporary measure, the restored relay will not be enough for a long time, and in some cases the bulkhead will not help.

Under the relay body you can find the armature, coil, rod and contacts. Most often, oxide appears on parts of this device, which is time to try to clean. However, it is worth remembering that this measure is sometimes ineffective. Therefore, it is best to immediately buy a new spare part.

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The blender or crown of the VAZ 2110 is faulty - how to check

Bendix is ​​a device consisting of two parts - an overrunning clutch, as well as a gear, which is located directly on it

It should be noted that the overrunning clutch is directly connected to the starter pulley thanks to splines installed in a spiral. The mechanism moves along these slots when the driver tries to start the engine.


Blendix VAZ 2110 in perfect condition

If the starter does not click and does not work or works slowly even when hot, the problem may lie in the bendix. In addition, there is another fork on the device, consisting of two metal plates mounted directly on the overrunning clutch. This fork is attached to two opposite points of the element. One of the edges of the plates is made in the form of a rectangle.

When the driver turns the key in the ignition, the retractor relay acts on these plates. Next, the gear moves along the pulley using splines until the element engages with the flywheel rim.

If wet

If wet candles are found, they must be removed and dried. Next, they should be installed in their place. If after such work the car still does not start, and the spark plugs are filled with gasoline, the next step is to check the timing marks. To do this, remove the plastic casing and check the marks on the camshaft and its gear;

Don’t forget about the mark on the crankshaft gear. If they are in the wrong position, there is a violation of the gas distribution. It is also worth checking the key, in close combination with which the DPKV works. The second reason why spark plugs may flood is clogged nozzles. In this case, they need to be cleaned.

If wet candles are found, they must be removed and dried.

Next, they should be installed in their place. If after such work the car still does not start, and the spark plugs are filled with gasoline, the next step is to check the timing marks. To do this, remove the plastic casing and check the marks on the camshaft and its gear; Don’t forget about the mark on the crankshaft gear.

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Types of starter breakdowns and the reliability of its components

Since the starter is an electromechanical device, all its breakdowns can be divided into two categories:

  • mechanical type (wear of rubbing parts, deformation or jamming of one of the starter elements, etc.). Eliminating these breakdowns requires removing the unit from the machine;
  • electrical type (problems with battery voltage supply, rupture or short circuit of the stator windings or starter armature, burning of contacts or working surfaces, etc.).

Of course, the easiest thing would be to carry a spare unit with you. But it is quite bulky and massive, and also costs a lot of money. So, for the cheapest starter for a VAZ car you will have to pay at least 3 thousand rubles, and for a foreign car of the same class - 6 thousand rubles.

Moreover, as practice shows, in 90% of cases, starter problems are associated with faulty wiring, brush mechanism, solenoid relay or battery. Eliminating the noted deficiencies will cost much less, although some of them will require a stand.

If we rank the malfunctions of the average passenger car starter, then the frequency of breakdowns of its components and parts decreases in the following order:

  • brush commutator;
  • front and rear bushings;
  • armature shaft;
  • planetary mechanism (if any);
  • stator winding;
  • Bendix with overrunning clutch;
  • flywheel crown teeth.

Types of starter breakdowns and the reliability of its components

Since the starter is an electromechanical device, all its breakdowns can be divided into two categories:

  • mechanical type (wear of rubbing parts, deformation or jamming of one of the starter elements, etc.). Eliminating these breakdowns requires removing the unit from the machine;
  • electrical type (problems with battery voltage supply, rupture or short circuit of the stator windings or starter armature, burning of contacts or working surfaces, etc.).

Of course, the easiest thing would be to carry a spare unit with you. But it is quite bulky and massive, and also costs a lot of money. So, for the cheapest starter for a VAZ car you will have to pay at least 3 thousand rubles, and for a foreign car of the same class - 6 thousand rubles.

Moreover, as practice shows, in 90% of cases, starter problems are associated with faulty wiring, brush mechanism, solenoid relay or battery. Eliminating the noted deficiencies will cost much less, although some of them will require a stand.

If we rank the malfunctions of the average passenger car starter, then the frequency of breakdowns of its components and parts decreases in the following order:

  • brush commutator;
  • front and rear bushings;
  • armature shaft;
  • planetary mechanism (if any);
  • stator winding;
  • Bendix with overrunning clutch;
  • flywheel crown teeth.

Checking the devices

When it was noticed that the VAZ-2112 does not start, you need to turn on the ignition and carefully look at the dashboard. It should display an alarm in the form of switched on lights:

• Signal for normal battery charging.

If the instrument panel does not react at all and does not light up when turned on, you should look for reasons why there is no power. To do this, you need to check the fastening of the terminals on the battery. Also pay attention to the fuses. When the dashboard is working, the repair of the VAZ-2112 should continue as follows. Turn your attention to the Check Engine lamp.

If you have run out of repair ideas, try connecting a working ECU and checking it that way. This will determine whether it is a problem or not. If the Check Engine warning light still does not work, the ECU is most likely faulty. Without it, you won't be able to start the car. Speaking about the price of the ECU, it is worth noting that this is not a cheap thing. It costs about 100 dollars. Some spare parts for the VAZ-2112 are quite expensive. The control unit is one of them. Compared to the fact that the price for the VAZ-2112 car itself is from 150 thousand rubles, hardly anyone will buy a spare unit.

All features of the standard scheme

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with an additional starter relay Please note: relay K2 is not at all “unloading”. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery. The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Circuit without additional relay There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

Options for developing situations

• Spark is present on the spark plugs of all cylinders. This is already a good sign. Let's proceed to the next point.

• There is a spark on the first and fourth cylinders, but no spark on the others. Conclusion: ignition coil 2112 does not work.

• There is a spark on the second and third cylinders, but no spark on the others. The conclusion is the same as in the previous paragraph. The ignition module should also be replaced. When after replacing this element the problem does not go away, the culprit is a malfunction of the output keys to the ignition module from the electronic control unit. Repairing the unit will solve this problem.

• When there are no sparks at all, the most likely reason may be a breakdown of the crankshaft position sensor, from which the commands for its formation come.

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