No excitation on the VAZ 2107 injector generator

There are two energy sources in a car. Battery and generator. Moreover, the generator is the main one, since it is able to charge the battery while driving. In the most extreme, desperate cases, battery energy can be used. According to various estimates, in the most optimistic case, you can drive about 100 km on a flat road on a battery. In this case, the headlights should not be turned on, the heater should not be turned off, and, preferably, the ambient temperature should be low and the speed should be constant so that the radiator fan does not turn on. And the battery will be fully charged. Only in this case all the energy will go into the “spark”.

If the VAZ 2107 engine (injector) is running and there is no battery charge, there may be many reasons.

Let's start with the generator. The VAZ 2107 (carburetor) has an alternating current generator (model 372.3701), and an alternating current rectifier is built into the design. This is a synchronous three-phase motor.

The reasons why the battery is not charging can be common, regardless of whether you have a carburetor or an injector. Let's consider the reasons when the generator is to blame, that is, there is no voltage at its terminals. This can happen because the rectifier bridges (diode), the winding and many other reasons have burned out.

The VAZ 2107 (injector) is equipped with a figure-eight generator 5142.3771. Its difference from a conventional generator on a VAZ 2107 is that it produces a higher current, not 55 A, but about 80-90 A per hour, since the injector requires more electricity, it is more modern and has a higher power density. The figure shows a generator producing a rectified current of 80 A at a voltage of 14 V.

Attention! Before claiming that charging has disappeared specifically in the VAZ 2107 generator, check:

If there is incoming voltage at the generator, this does not yet prove that it is the generator that is damaged and there is no outgoing current. After all, diodes supply current to the excitation winding of the generator. In this case, the battery charge lamp will light up on the dashboard.
It is also worth measuring the voltage in the network with a tester. If it is below 12 V, then most likely there is a short circuit somewhere, and in this case the wiring may heat up intensely.
You should check the generator belt, or rather, its tension. If it is loosely tensioned, then instead of driving the generator rotor, the belt slides along it itself, since there is no contact.
The generator charging relay has failed. We need to talk about this separately.

The charging relay on the VAZ 2107 (injector) is located in the same housing with the brush mechanism, and its task is to stabilize the output voltage. Several years ago there were relays that were stamped into a printed circuit board and were located under the instrument panel and were non-separable. In the figure, the relay is indicated by an arrow. In everyday life, due to its characteristic shape, it is called a “tablet”.

Now, with the development of microelectronics, the printed circuit board is successfully replaced by a semiconductor relay. The sizes have become smaller, and there are no problems with installation.

How to replace the charging relay?

Important! First, as always, we turn off the ground, remove the negative wire from the battery terminal, then remove the yellow wire going from the generator to the relay, then use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it;
Then we take it out together with the brushes:
Now we need to carry out diagnostics. To do this, we test the voltage on the brushes with a voltmeter, and we power the relay itself from the battery, “simulating” the rectified current of the generator. At the same time, we apply (+) to terminal “B”, to the yellow wire, and connect (-) to the other terminal, “ground”. We are familiar with the signs of trouble. If you don’t have a tester, you can take a 1-3 W, 12 V light bulb.
When installing a new relay, you need to press it firmly during installation, since new, unworn brushes provide more resistance.

If after taking these measures there is no effect, you need to look for the cause in the generator, we’ll talk about this next time. At the same time, remember that if you are removing a generator, then either you have decent knowledge in electrical engineering, or you have someone to give it to. There is no third option, especially if you have an injector.

In conclusion, let me tell you about several other reasons for the lack of charging or imitation, and also give advice:

If you have a VAZ 2107 injector, then it is strictly not recommended to reset the battery terminal for various “checks” while the engine is running, and especially to allow strangers near the hood for this purpose. This is very harmful to electronic “brains”.
It is advisable for those who like to “light up” to be able to say a firm “no” if you have a VAZ 2107 injector.
On the instrument panel, the connectors are not soldered to the board, but riveted. Therefore, in some cars in the cold, while the interior is cold, there is no contact with the charging lamp. It lights up, simulating a lack of current from the generator. After the interior has warmed up, contact is restored and the lamp goes out.
The next reason for those who like to go to the car wash in the cold. When water gets into the relay and brush assembly and freezes there, there is no charging. The solution is to heat it with any powerful hairdryer.

If you suddenly notice that your VAZ 2107 car has lost charging, this problem must be corrected immediately. If you operate the car without charging, the battery will run out very quickly and you will have to use a tow truck or tow truck.

To find the reason for the battery not charging and how to fix this problem, you need to start with theory.

A few more words about the voltage regulator

Finally, it should be added that in cars such as the VAZ 2107, it is necessary to check the voltage supplied from the generator to the battery with a voltmeter at least once a month. We discussed how to do this above. The fact is that a car device that shows the battery charge level very often lies, showing us the norm, while the voltage at the battery terminals during engine operation is lower or higher than it. And here the danger is not so much the lack of charging as the so-called overcharging. It occurs when the voltage regulator malfunctions and is characterized by the supply of voltage to the battery, the value of which is greater than prescribed.

I personally had to face a similar problem. It all started when the relatively new battery stopped holding a charge. When using the car every day, it started without problems. But as soon as the car sat for a week, the starter made it clear with its clattering that it would not work without the “lighting” wires. A visit to an auto electrician showed that the outermost “bank” of the battery was swollen. This means that the electrodes in it are short-circuited. Why did they suddenly close if everything was in order? After starting the engine, the electrician measured the voltage at the battery terminals. The voltmeter showed 17.2 V, which is unacceptable for this battery model. At the same time, the device on the panel faithfully gave out the “norm”. Checking the voltage regulator confirmed the auto electrician's diagnosis. It was faulty. Replacing the device took no more than half an hour. And the repairs, it would seem, didn’t cost much. The battery, of course, had to be replaced, since with the onset of cold weather it began to discharge even faster.

About six months later, I accidentally noticed that the car’s headlights began to shine noticeably brighter. Then one of the headlights burned out. A week later, another one burned down. Without waiting for the battery to swell again, I decided to carry out diagnostics and repairs myself. Armed with a multimeter, I went to the garage. The measurement results again showed that the voltage regulator was faulty. This time the generator produced 15.6 V. I no longer went to the electrician. I removed the generator myself, replaced the regulator and installed everything in place. The control voltage measurement showed 14.2 V. After that incident, I regularly measure the voltage twice a week. More than a year has passed and everything is back to normal.

Unfortunately, the VAZ 2107 cannot be called a reliable car. But it still has one advantage - simplicity of design. Therefore, it is not at all necessary to contact specialists if minor malfunctions occur.

Reasons for the battery not charging

For proper operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107, the voltage in the on-board network must be constant. When the engines are not running, the battery maintains constant voltage. After starting the engine, the car's generator comes into operation, charges the battery and maintains the on-board voltage within 13.6-14.2 volts. Regardless of the speed, the voltage on the generator must remain constant. This is ensured by a relay regulator, which, depending on the speed, changes the voltage of the generator circuit. If the voltage drops below the permissible level, the winding current increases, increasing the output voltage and vice versa.

If there is no charging on the VAZ 2107, possible reasons may be the following:

poor contact or break in the excitation network of the generator output voltage;
the relay regulator is faulty;
broken generator belt.

Troubleshooting the generator should first begin by identifying the cause of the lack of battery charge.

Troubleshooting

On modern cars, using the “old-fashioned” diagnostic method by removing it from the battery terminal can lead to serious damage to many of the car’s electronic systems. Significant voltage drops in the vehicle's on-board network can damage almost all on-board electronics. That is why modern generators are always checked only by measuring the voltage in the network or diagnosing the removed unit itself on a special stand. First, the voltage at the battery terminals is measured, the engine is started, and readings are taken while the engine is running. Before starting, the voltage should be about 12 V, after starting - from 13.8 to 14.7 V. A deviation towards the higher side indicates that you are “overcharging”, which implies a malfunction of the relay regulator, towards a lower level - that no current is flowing. The absence of recharging current indicates a malfunction of the generator or circuits.

How to find the reason for the battery not charging

The first sign of a lack of charging is the warning light on the instrument panel coming on or if the voltmeter needle is not in the green zone when the engine is running. You can more accurately check the voltage on the battery using a multimeter.

When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should be – 13.9±0.3 V. If the battery is not charging, the voltage will be approximately 12 V.

Warning: to avoid damage to the ECU and regulator relay, do not remove the battery terminals while the engine is running.

Increased or decreased voltage of the on-board network harms the battery. In the first case, the electrolyte boils away, in the second, it is discharged, which leads to failure of the battery.

Generator excitation lost, repair...

Hi all. Yesterday I started the car and noticed that the voltmeter needle was standing still, I gave the gas and immediately went to the left. I turned it off and saw that the light was not on, so I decided to replace the light bulb tomorrow. Today I replaced the light bulb, but there was no effect. I checked the old light bulb, it’s working, I checked if the contact on the generator had come loose, and just to be on the safe side, I checked the fuses, everything was intact and of course there were no changes. I removed the dashboard to be sure that the lamp was installed correctly, there were no changes, and then I remembered that there was such a problem a long time ago and it was hidden in the nuts along the edges of the panel, I tightened it with my fingers and voila, everything works. So if you have checked everything, you should also tighten the nuts, they could have become loose and then there will be no excitement.

Troubleshooting battery failure

The first step is to check the tension of the alternator belt - it is what drives the alternator and coolant pump, so this malfunction can also manifest itself as engine overheating.

If the VAZ 2107 battery charging lamp does not light up, and the voltmeter shows the normal voltage of the on-board network and the battery does not charge, the reason is obviously in the contacts at the terminals.

You need to remove the terminals from the battery and clean them with sandpaper. If charging does not appear, it is necessary to measure the voltage at output “30” of the generator with the engine running. If the voltage readings at this output and the battery are very different, you need to clean the contacts and check the wire running from the generator to the battery. If the wire is faulty, it must be replaced.

If the voltage in the on-board network is within the limits when the engine is running, but when the headlights are turned on, it drops, the reason is the weak tension of the alternator belt. Under increased load, a weak belt slips. The correct belt tension is when, with a force of 10 kgf, it should bend by 12-17 mm.

Another reason for the lack of charging may be a short circuit or break in the stator or rotor winding, as well as a broken rectifier diode on the generator.

Diodes can be tested using a test light or multimeter to check their resistance. To check the diodes using a test lamp, you need to remove the “+” terminal from the battery and connect the test lamp with one end to the positive terminal, and with the other you need to sequentially touch the three bolts shown in the figure below. Then do the same operation, only with the “-” terminal. If the control lamp lights up, then the diode being tested is broken.

If one of the diodes fails, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge assembly.

A malfunction of the stator winding can be determined with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the rectifier unit mounting bolts. If there is no contact between them, then there is a winding break. In this case, the winding or generator assembly is changed.

Probably the most common cause of generator failure is brush wear. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly. The length of the brushes must be more than 5 mm, otherwise they need to be replaced. Brushes can also become jammed or skewed in the wells.

Note: the injection generator is no different from the generator of the carburetor version of the VAZ 2107. All tips for repairing and checking the generator are relevant for both modifications of the car.

In this article you will learn why the VAZ 2107 does not charge, as well as how to fix this problem. There are quite a few reasons for this behavior of the car’s electrical equipment, so you will have to look for a breakdown using the elimination method. It doesn't matter if the generator is working properly. It may function normally, but it will not charge. Now let's try to find out all the possible reasons.

Device

Before you look for alternator faults in your VAZ 2110, you need to know that the fundamental design and principle of its operation are the same for all types of cars. They can differ only in dimensions, workmanship and location of mounting fasteners. Therefore, to broaden your horizons, you can listen to the advice of owners of all brands of cars, since some generator spare parts are interchangeable.

Replacement in the VAZ 2110 generator

The photo highlights the main components of the generator:

Alternator belt pulley (I hope there is no need to explain its purpose);
A housing consisting of a front half located on the pulley side and a rear half, which is installed on the slip ring side. In addition, in the rear part of the case there is a brush assembly, a rectifier, a voltage regulator, as well as electrical wiring leads for connecting to the vehicle's electrical circuit.

The stator is installed in the housing, and the rotor support bearings are placed; it also has fastenings for installing the generator on the car engine.

A rotor with excitation windings, the terminals of which are connected to cylindrical slip rings made of copper;
The heart of the generator is the stator. It is in the grooves between its steel sheets where the three-phase winding is located and the electric current necessary for the car is generated;
Assembly of rectifier diodes (no comments);
A voltage regulator is necessary to maintain the voltage in the vehicle's electrical circuit within the specified parameters during changes in loads, generator speed and ambient temperature;
Brush assembly, where there are spring-loaded brushes in contact with the rotor slip rings;
Plastic cover protecting the diode module.

How the charging system works

The battery in any car, in particular in the VAZ 2107, is only necessary for the functioning of the power supply system while the engine is turned off. But when the engine is running, all electrical equipment runs from the generator. It provides power to the injector - nozzles, fuel pump, electronic control unit. But the main load is the battery. It charges while the engine is running.

And the service life of the battery directly depends on how well the charging occurs. A generator is just one source of electricity. But it may be in working condition, but charging is not going to the battery. There can be a lot of reasons for this behavior; you need to thoroughly study the electrical circuit of the charging circuit of the VAZ 2107 car.

Repair and overhaul of generator VAZ-2107 37.3701

In this material we will talk about how to repair and overhaul the VAZ-2107 generator brand 37.3701. This manual is suitable for almost all classic generators, G-222 and others. The principles of assembly and disassembly are the same for everyone. The main thing during such work is to stock up on high-quality spare parts, because the most difficult and time-consuming thing here is the work process itself, and therefore it will be a shame to go through and disassemble the generator again because in a month the bearing will make noise or the diode bridge will burn out again. Ideally, we will need a universal puller (I personally used a rod puller instead, which turned out to be not very convenient, but after some fiddling around I removed the bearing with it, you can do without it). It is also good to have a metal brush or brushes in the form of attachments for a drill on hand. Anyway, let's go...

Battery charging circuit

The same scheme is used not only on the VAZ 2107; a similar one is used in any other car. The only difference is in the components - they are designed for different currents and operating modes. Charging circuit:

the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the metal body by a thick copper bus;
the entire electrical system of the car is connected to the positive terminal - there are two buses: to the starter and the generator (“30” terminal);
from the positive terminal of the generator, voltage goes to the fuse box and ignition switch;
from the ignition switch the voltage goes to the mounting block with fuses;
only after it is power supplied (protected by fuse F10) to the control lamp, signaling insufficient charging, as well as to the voltmeter - a device that measures voltage;
After this, power is supplied to the fuse box and goes to the “61” terminal of the generator set - to the brush assembly.

The circuit is not simple, it has a lot of elements that can fail. The contact may even break, causing the alternator to not charge the battery well. And all this affects your nerves - panic immediately begins.

1 - battery; 2 — Generator impeller; 3 - Protection diodes; 4 - Drive pulley; 5 - Rectifier diodes; 6 - Stator winding; 7 - Voltage regulator; 8 - Excitation winding; 9 - Filter capacitor; 10 - Fuse block; 11 - Indicator lamp on the dashboard; 12 - Voltmeter; 13 - Ignition switch relay; 14 - Ignition switch.

But there is no need to panic, it is enough just to diagnose the condition of all elements of the system. And even if you have an injector installed on a VAZ 2107, the car will be able to withstand the journey to the nearest service station or auto parts store. If the battery is in good condition, of course.

Powering the rotor with direct current: process features

In order for the magnetic field in the rotor not to change direction, its coil must be powered by a direct current of the same polarity. Current is supplied to the rotating coil through carbon brushes and commutator rings.

To power the rotor winding with direct current, two methods are used: self-excitation and excitation from an external source (usually from a battery).

Rice. 3.14. Toothed generator rotor.

Generator Excitation: Understanding the Definition

Excitation of the generator is a process that occurs on the basis of magnetomotive force. It carries out the process of inducing a magnetic field, which, in turn, produces the process of generating electricity. To excite the first generation generators, special DC rotators were used, which are also called exciters. Their winding received DC power from another generator, which is usually called a sub-exciter. All components are placed on one shaft, and their rotation occurs synchronously.

Generator field winding: familiarization with the definition

The generator excitation winding is one of the main structural elements of a synchronous generator. It receives power from a source providing direct current. Most often, the source function is performed by an electronic voltage generator. Such regulators are used in new models operating on the basis of a self-exciter. And self-excitation, in turn, is based on the fact that the initial excitation occurs with the help of the residual magnetism of the magnetic circuit of a synchronous generator (SG). It is important to understand that alternating current energy comes precisely from the SG stator winding, transforming it into direct current energy.

What is the generator excitation winding used for?

The rotor winding is excited by a direct current source. The rotor rotates with the help of the prime mover, thereby the magnetic field created in the rotor also rotates with it at the same speed. Now the magnetic field lines cross the stator winding located around the rotor. As a result, an alternating electromotive force (emf) is formed in the winding.

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Technical specifications

If the old generator fails, many motorists wonder which generator they should now replace the old one with.

There is no need to invent anything here. The most correct solution is to install the same generator as before, or a more powerful one.

Today, the VAZ 2110 provides for the use of three types of power supply devices:

Katek 5102.3771. The generator produces 80 Ampere power and its voltage is approximately 14V.
Katek 94.3701. This is a device with the same parameters. They are not seriously different.
Catek 120 amp. A generator that is more adapted to modern realities, when in addition to standard electrical equipment, motorists install many additional devices.

If you have a powerful audio system in your car, you use an electric pump powered by the car, as well as a number of other additional consumers, it is recommended to install a 120-amp unit instead of a standard 80-amp generator.

If we take into account the size of the devices, then we can distinguish between ordinary and compact ones. They have a certain difference in design

To be specific, the differences are in the following components:

Brackets;
Anchor;
Excitation wire;
Drive pulley;
Number of mounting bolts.

But in reality this does not play a special role. After all, the structure of all generators used for the VAZ 2110 is the same. Therefore, let's look at the circuit and structure of this unit.

What else could it be?

Often, the culprit for charging problems may not be the regulator itself, but its terminals; over time, like many on a car, they oxidize - which prevents the generator from working normally and recharging our battery, so first, before changing this unit, try to clean it, remove oxides and other deposits. By the way, this also applies to the battery terminals; they need to be cleaned and protected at least once a season.

Therefore, first of all, if the multimeter gives you 11 or slightly below 12V at the terminals of the machine, try cleaning the terminals and contacts first, then measure again. It is quite possible that this is the reason.

This is where I end the article, I think it was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

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