We independently install window regulators on a VAZ 2109

Today, ESP is an indispensable element, like any other electrical device that is in your home. The latest versions of VAZ 2109 cars were equipped with ESP from the factory, but they work extremely poorly, the windows are difficult to lift. In winter, the rubber seal freezes to the door and it is simply impossible to lower the glass. We have the opportunity to correct all the manufacturer’s mistakes and do tuning of the VAZ 2109 with our own hands.

So, we go to a specialized store and purchase an electric window regulator there. It is preferable to purchase an ESP rack-and-pinion design, as it is more reliable than a cable design. In addition to the ESP itself, the kit should include: brackets for installing window regulators on a VAZ 2109, control buttons, plugs in place of the standard window regulator handles, all kinds of washers and nuts. Now that we have all this in stock, we begin to install the electric SP on the VAZ 2109.

The installation will take place according to the following scheme: first we mount the device on one door, then on the other, then lay the wiring, check the functionality and assemble it. Now let's look at the installation in more detail. First of all, you need to dismantle the handle on the interior side, pull out the “soap box” from under the door handle, unscrew the fastening bolts and slowly pull out the door trim so as not to damage the plastic latches.

If, however, some of the latches were broken, then it is best to immediately replace them with new ones, otherwise rattling may occur in the cabin. Then, one by one, remove the plugs, the handle lock, the handle itself, unscrew the handle bolts and remove the “pipe”. The manual SP is secured with 7 nuts and a couple more bolts that secure the window regulator to the glass itself. We unscrew all the bolts and pull it out of the door. To avoid breaking the glass during replacement, it is recommended to secure the glass with a cable, just in case. We unscrew the window lifter guide bolt, a couple of bolts of the glass lifting bracket through the holes in the door, two middle bolts of the SP guides, the lower bolt of the VAZ 2109 window lifter slide, the upper bolt of the SP slide.

Having unscrewed all these nuts and screws, we can pull out the mechanical window regulator of the VAZ 2109. Now it’s time to start preparing the window regulator and install the appropriate brackets. We need to lay temporary wiring from the battery to the door; we will need them to adjust the ESP in order to prevent the glass from jamming and biting when lifting it, as well as when attaching the ESP to the glass. Be careful not to allow the wires to short circuit with each other.

In order to install the window regulator inside, you need to mount it in the folded position, otherwise it will not fit. As a rule, at the time of purchase it is in an unfolded state. In this case, we connect it to the extended temporary wires and, changing the polarity, bring the rail to the middle. We install the ESP in place of the old lift, insert the SP studs into special holes on the door, and attach three nuts to the protruding studs. We don’t need to drive it in, but rather bait it, because then we will need to screw the joint venture to the glass itself, and we can’t do it without adjustment. We lift the lift rail, thus aligning its holes with the mounting holes of the glass and screw it there. We lift the glass and make sure that the glass rises smoothly, without distortions or jamming. If this cannot be avoided, then loosen the fastening of the ESP to the door, turn it to the left or right, tighten the nuts and check the operation of the ESP again.

It happens that from such actions it begins to work even worse, then you will have to turn the mechanism in the other direction. You need to decide where to install the control buttons. As a rule, they are installed in one of three places: next to the parking brake lever, in the doors themselves, or on the old panel. In this case, they installed it in the door; this option seemed the most convenient and ergonomic. We take a pencil, a ruler, files and a hand drill with different drill diameters, and begin to drill a hole in the door trim. The main thing is not to rush, sharpen it a little, try on the button, sharpen it again, try it on again. In general, measure seven times and cut once! Next up is laying the wiring. Do not short the wires together and be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery during operation.

Basic malfunctions of window regulators and their repair

If we generally consider the side window lifting device, then in the mechanically driven cable type there are very few components that can fail. The first of these is the cable itself. Over time, it stretches out, and its threads may break due to corrosion, which will lead to jamming, or it may break completely. Due to excessively applied forces, the gearbox itself may fail.

But in general, such a mechanism is quite reliable, rarely breaks down, and to maintain it, it is enough to lubricate all its elements just once a year.

Video: Replacing the electric window of a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and Priora

But problems with power windows arise more often. At the same time, their actuators themselves are very reliable and break down infrequently. Much more often, malfunctions occur due to damage to the guides.

As for the electrical part, it is this that most often causes non-working lifts.

The most common problems are:

• Blown fuse or main power window control unit;
• Broken or damaged wiring;
• Oxidation of contacts on control keys;
• Electric motor malfunction;

It is in this sequence that the circuit is checked to identify a malfunction. That is, if the power windows do not work at all, then the reason usually lies in the lack of power, so the problem must be looked for in the fuse or control unit.

If a particular lift does not function, then first the circuit up to the control keys is checked, then the keys themselves, then the wiring to the motor and the electric motor itself.

What is the cause of the problem

Sometimes there is no malfunction as such. For example, window regulators may fail in severe frost, but other electrics also suffer from similar problems. Therefore, experts advise not to save on buying/renting and heating a garage. But mechanical failures are much more common.

If you suspect a breakdown, you first need to check the TsBKE - this is AvtoVAZ’s personal innovation, which operates the electrical package. First you need to make sure the fuse is working. If everything is fine, we disassemble the doors, arm ourselves with a multimeter and measure the voltage at the terminals of the window lift motor. If there is no voltage, then:

1. There may be a malfunction of the power window control unit (the button for opening and closing the window located on the door).
2. The problem lies in the connection of the wire connectors.
3. CBKE refused.

1. The window lift motor is stuck or stuck.
2. The window lift cable has already outlived its usefulness and needs to be replaced.
3. Distortion of the glass itself, while the rest of the system is in full working order.

All of the above breakdowns occur with approximately equal frequency, with the exception of glass distortion, which occurs much less frequently.

Self-detecting a broken power window can be seriously difficult. First, it is difficult to diagnose a CBCE problem. The device is designed in such a way that one of the cables is multifunctional. It could be:

• X1-4.
• X1-6.

The essence of multifunctionality lies in the fact that some conductors are capable of independently changing polarity if the appropriate command is received from the CBKE. These pairs can simultaneously control side mirrors, central locking, provide power, etc.

To diagnose a malfunction of the CBKE, it is necessary to perform the X1-4 or X1-6 test, which is multifunctional on a specific vehicle. In this case, you should also press the window up/down button. If the multimeter detects the presence of electricity when the button is activated, then everything is fine. You also need to check sockets No. 1, No. 5, No. 11 and No. 13. If in all cases the presence of current and correct operation of the system are noted, it means that the reason does not lie in the CBKE.

As for the power window control unit, you most likely will not be able to identify the fault yourself. The fact is that it ensures the operation of all such devices in the car, which means you can call it as much as you like, but it will be very difficult to confirm the fact of its failure and find out where exactly it failed. The only real way out in such a situation is to contact specialists at a service station. With a high probability, it will not be possible to do without diagnostic equipment.

Repair is determined by the specific malfunction and is not always possible at home. If we are talking about skewed glass or poor conductor contact, this is not a problem. You can also replace a worn-out window lift cable yourself; you just need to purchase a new one at the nearest car market. If the problem lies in the power window control unit or in the CBKE, then you cannot do without contacting a service center. In this case, independent electronic repair is impossible.

July 29, 2015 219,652

Owners of Lada Priora have to periodically deal with malfunctions of power windows (ESP). In some cases, the problem lies in some small detail that can be easily fixed with your own hands; in other cases, you will have to contact a service center to repair the ESP. We decided to look into the main reasons why power windows do not work.

Electrical related breakdown

When repairing the electrical equipment of the machine, it is necessary to disconnect the wires from the battery

It is important. Because first you need to check the functionality of the fuse responsible for the operation of the lifts

The marking of this fuse is F5. If it malfunctions, we replace it.

In this case, it is prohibited to use a screwdriver or metal tool. There is a possibility of a short circuit in the electrical circuits. If the fuse is working, then it is worth measuring the voltage of the power window motor (at the terminals) with a multimeter or an ordinary 12-volt light bulb.

If there is no voltage, inspect the electrical wiring of the power windows. If everything is fine there, we study the relay, and then the control unit. It may be necessary to pinout the control unit. We will not dwell in more detail; on the Internet there are a lot of detailed articles with schematic images on this topic.

Sometimes it happens that the glass closes on its own immediately after opening. It also happens that the button does not work until the ignition key is turned. Then it is best to clean the contacts of this button. And if this does not help, then replace it completely.

It happens that the backlight of the power window buttons on the VAZ 21099 does not light up. Most likely the problem is in the light bulb or LED itself. Replacement is required. It is best to first remove the entire control unit and disconnect the wires from it. Then, using a screwdriver or knife, remove the button itself, carefully prying it off, first on one side, then on the other. Then everything is elementary. A lamp or LED is in front of us. We use a soldering iron to replace it. In the case of replacing an LED, you need to use a resistor of a certain value. And be sure not to forget about polarity. You need to solder the anode and cathode correctly.

Types of electric windows and which ones are better for the VAZ 2109

ESPs come in various types.

• cable-type (weak and very slow, with the advantage of being cheap and being able to replace the motor separately if it suddenly burns out);
• rack and pinion (a bit weak, based on operating experience - require regular lubrication);
• articulated-lever (work quickly, make little noise, are quite powerful: they can easily cope with frozen glass).

We opt for the latter, called “Pomegranate”. Moreover, the kit of these ESPs includes everything necessary for installation - electrical wiring, buttons, plugs, all the necessary fasteners, rubber cuffs for pulling the wiring from the rack into the door.

There are also “Katran” and “Berkut”, they have a slightly different device and installation is a little more complicated, but according to reviews they are also not bad.

Unit connection

When connecting the device, you must first turn off the power to the car. This can be done by disconnecting the battery or turning off the cigarette lighter and instrument panel lights. It is from here that the lifting mechanisms will be powered during the process.

Then you need to remove the door trim. It can be easily dismantled, but it is still better to stock up on fasteners. The entire analogue lift mechanism must be removed, after first fixing the glass so that it does not move. You need to take out almost everything except the glass mounting rail. We install the mechanical part of the electric lifting mechanism on it and lubricate the stroke groove.

The next installation stage is the installation of the electronic switch. After you have figured out the route for installing the wiring, starting from the location of the buttons and ending with the cigarette lighter contacts, from which the mechanism will be powered as a result, you can begin the process itself. But be careful: you won’t be able to simply pull the wiring from the doors to the counter. In some places you will need to use a probe, since the wiring needs to be released in places where special grooves are located. Also, the wiring should not touch either the doors or any parts of the ESP mechanism.

After everything is connected, the established connections need to be checked for functionality. An experienced installer does this every time he installs the mechanism and connects the circuit. The check should be performed several times, knocking a little on the door and on the panel.

The glass should move smoothly, without any jerking or getting stuck. If this still occurs, you can lubricate the seal around the glass with silicone or other hermetic lubricant. Such actions partially eliminate the movement problem. Afterwards, you can install the casing in place and enjoy the work done.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=zI7F3je-nSw

Recommendations

To prevent problems with ESP, several rules should be followed:

• lubricate moving parts;
• prevent moisture from entering the window lift motor;
• install fuses and relays specified in the instructions;
• Do not short circuit the wires.

Following these simple rules will help you avoid power window failure and save your money and time.

Summary:

Where is the window regulator located? It is located on the inside of the door, under the trim. In this regard, it can only be clearly seen when the trim is removed from the car door. Below is a photo in which the arrows indicate the location of the window regulator:

When should you replace your window regulator? Usually, when it fails, the window may stop raising and lowering by turning the window lifter handle!

Window lifter options

According to their design, electric windows (ESP) are divided into three main types:

• rack and pinion window lifters. The devices are not very powerful, plus they require systematic lubrication. If this is not done, their service life is significantly reduced;
• Cable window lifters. Their main advantage is their low price. In addition, changing the motor on such a window lifter will not be difficult (since it is easy to find on sale). They are inferior in power to rack and pinion lifts, which is especially noticeable when the glass freezes to the door in winter;
• finally, the windows are lever operated. Among car enthusiasts they are considered the best option: powerful, fast and almost silent during operation. These are the ones that will be discussed below.

The most popular among lever ESPs are the “Granat” lifts. Their popularity is due to two factors: a fairly affordable price and good equipment. Along with the ESP, the driver receives wiring, fasteners, cuffs and plugs.

Lever window lifters "Granat"

The process of replacing standard VAZ 2109 power windows with electric ones

Before you start work, you should stock up on everything you need.

Tools and Supplies

1. Set of lever ESP “Granat”.
2. Set of socket heads.
3. Set of open-end wrenches.
4. Flat screwdriver.
5. Phillips head screwdriver.
6. CV joint lubrication 4.

Sequence of operations when installing ESP “Granat”

• the hood of the car is opened, both terminals are removed from the battery;
• use a flat screwdriver to remove the plastic trim of the front door;

The door trim is removed using a screwdriver

The door glass is fixed in the uppermost position using tape; using a 10mm socket, unscrew the bolts that secure the glass to the window lifter;

The nuts holding the glass in the window lifter mechanism are unscrewed

Now you need to remove the window lifter guides. First, the bottom nut is unscrewed;

The lower guide nut is unscrewed with a socket head

then remove a pair of nuts holding the middle of the guide;

The central nuts of the guide are unscrewed with a socket head

after this, the upper guide nut is unscrewed;

The top nut on the guide is unscrewed

then, using a 8-mm socket, unscrew the 3 nuts near the window lifter handle;

Use a 8-mm socket to unscrew the nuts holding the window lifter handle.

Now the handle and guide of the window lifting mechanism are completely free. It is carefully removed from the door through a large hole;

The VAZ 2109 window lifter is removed through the hole in the door

the next stage is the installation of the ESP. The ESP “Granat” mechanism is placed in the door (and the mechanism must be completely assembled, otherwise it simply will not fit into the door hole);

ESP "Granat" is installed in the door of a VAZ 2109

the installed window lifting mechanism is secured in the door using two short pins included in the ESP kit. The studs are screwed into where the 2 guide bolts used to be;

The ESP is secured with two central studs

Now it is necessary to ensure that the holes for the glass on the ESP mechanism coincide with the holes on the door glass. To combine them, voltage from the battery must be supplied to the ESP motor;

Voltage to the ESP motor is supplied from the VAZ 2109 battery

as soon as the mechanism rises to the level of the glass and the mounting holes coincide, the glass clamps are screwed to the window lifter mechanism using two 10-point bolts from the ESP kit;

Using a 8-piece head, the glass is attached to the ESP mechanism

all rubbing surfaces in the ESP mechanism are lubricated with CV joint compound-4;

The rubbing surfaces of the ESP are lubricated with the composition CV joint-4

next step: laying the wiring and installing the power window buttons. On the dashboard of the VAZ 2109, the niche for the buttons is located to the left of the cigarette lighter. This is where the power window activation buttons are installed (no additional holes will have to be made in the dashboard);

ESP activation buttons are installed in a niche near the cigarette lighter

the wiring from the ESP motor is routed through the technological holes in the door, then placed in the front pillar (which also has a lot of holes), and placed under the dashboard; The ESP motors will receive electricity from the standard cigarette lighter. The motors are connected according to the diagram presented below;

The simplest diagram for connecting an ESP to a cigarette lighter

After complete assembly of the circuit, the battery terminals are returned to their place and the operation of the ESP buttons is checked, as well as the backlighting of these buttons. If the backlight does not turn on, you need to swap the wires in the sockets marked on the diagram with numbers 6 and 3; Next, the operation of the ESP motors is checked. The glass should move smoothly. Jerks are unacceptable. When checking the movement of the glass, you must ensure that it does not come out of the guide; if the glass slides out jerkily or a characteristic creaking noise is heard when it moves, then the rubber seal from which it slides out is lubricated with silicone grease; after this, the door trim returns to its original place;

Detailed replacement of window regulators

So:

• From the interior side, you need to remove the handle and remove the “soap dish” located under the door handle itself.
• The fastening bolts are carefully unscrewed and the interior trim is dismantled. Do not damage the plastic latches.

Note! If several latches are broken, they must be replaced with new ones. Otherwise, rattling will be observed in the cabin.

• Now, one by one, remove the plugs, the handle and its lock. You should also unscrew the bolts from the handle and remove the “pipe”.

• As a rule, manual window lifters are secured with 7 nuts and a pair of bolts that secure the device to the glass. In this case, you need to remove all the bolts and remove the device from the door. Since there is a risk of glass breaking during the change process, it is recommended to secure it with a cable.

• The guide bolt of the old window lifter is removed, as well as the bolts of the bracket for raising the glass through the door hole. The same applies to the lower mounting bolt of the SP slide.
• After unscrewing all the necessary fasteners, you can safely remove the mechanical device.
• Now you need to pay attention to preparing the new window lifter, as well as installing the correct brackets.
• Temporary wiring from the battery is currently being installed to the door. It may be required to regulate the ESP in order to prevent sticking and biting of the glass when lifting and when fixing the device to the glass.

Note! You need to be extremely careful not to allow short circuits in the wires.

• To install the window regulator inside the door, you first need to install it in the folded state, as there is a risk that it will not fit.

Note! At the time of purchase, the device is in an unfolded state. In this case, you need to connect it with temporary wires, only after that, changing the polarity, the rail is brought into the middle.

• The ESP is mounted in place of the old lift, the SP studs are inserted into the door holes and secured with several nuts.

Note! The studs are not driven in, but attached, since then you will need to screw the lift to the glass, which requires some adjustment.

• The lift rail is raised, so it becomes possible to align the holes with all the glass mounting holes, only then the joint is screwed into place.

• The glass is lifted and the smoothness of the work is monitored; even the smallest distortions and jams are not allowed. If this cannot be done, most likely you need to loosen the fastening of the joint venture directly to the door. Turn the fasteners left or right, re-tighten the nuts and check the operation of the installed window lifter.

Note! In some situations, such actions make the joint venture work worse, then you will need to turn the mechanism in the opposite direction.

Determining the location of control buttons

For these actions you will need a ruler, pencil, file and hand drill:

• First, drill a hole in the casing. You can’t rush in this matter, it’s better to make the hole smaller, sharpen it and try on the button. If it doesn't fit, you need to sharpen it again.

Note! The wires must not be short-circuited; it is advisable to disconnect the “-” terminal of the battery at the time of work.

• The plastic of the front pillar is dismantled and the interior trim is folded back.
• Several meters of two-core wire are passed through this stand directly into the door. It is also required to conduct a single-core wire according to this principle.
• Since the wires rot and break after a while, you need to install casings between the door and the stand. As a rule, when the ignition is turned off on the “nine”, only the cigarette lighter and side lights work.
• Once the wiring is all the way through, it's time to connect it. To do this, you need to have an appropriate diagram available.
• At the end of the work, you need to check the functionality of the entire mechanism. Place the terminal on the battery, press the button, evaluate the efficiency of the new ESP and the lighting of the backlight on the button.

Note! If the joint venture is working too slowly, you need to try switching the “+” wires.

All resulting connections are wrapped with electrical tape, while the wires themselves are hidden in a niche in the cabin. This must be done in order to prevent them from being pinched by the ESP rail. You can install a button in the door trim of a VAZ 2109, connect the block and mount the trim in place. All removed elements are installed in the opposite order of removal and the functionality of the power windows is re-checked. Of course, ESP is an important part of the machine, but it is not necessary to turn to professionals to install them, since videos and photos on the Internet reveal all the intricacies of installing the mechanism with your own hands. For a better understanding of the replacement process, detailed instructions are provided with a description of each stage. To obtain the desired result, it is important to purchase a high-quality mechanism, the price of which may vary depending on the manufacturer.

Start installation

You need to start installing window lifts by choosing the mechanism itself. Today we have three versions of this device. Everyone has their pros and cons.

For those who have already installed modifications on cars, it will be no secret that without the correct circuit it is difficult to do this. When installing any electrical device, first of all you need to correctly connect all its contacts and power supply in order to avoid possible disconnection and broken connections in the future.

see also

Today, electric windows have become an indispensable element, in principle, like any household electrical appliance. New versions of the VAZ 2109 car, of course, have ESP installed at the factory, but it is difficult to say that they work with the required efficiency. In frosty months, the rubber seal freezes to the door, making it almost impossible to lower the glass. Having a suitable manual for the VAZ 2109 at hand, replacing the window regulator will be easy and simple. Thus, it is possible to get rid of all the errors of a given manufacturer. On a VAZ 2109, replacing the window regulator can be done on your own.

First you need to visit a specialized store that sells high-quality electric windows for vases. It is recommended to immediately purchase a rack-and-pinion design for ESP; compared to a cable design, it is characterized by increased reliability. The purchased kit should also include:

• control buttons;
• special brackets designed for installation of joint ventures;
• plugs for the holes in the handles of a conventional window lifter;
• various washers and nuts.

Installation is performed according to the following scheme:

• the device is first mounted on one door, then on the other;
• wiring is being laid;
• work efficiency is checked;
• assembly is in progress.

Installation of electric windows VAZ 2109

It’s been a long time since you’ve seen mechanical window regulators in modern cars, but there are a large number of old models that are equipped with them driving on the streets. Standard power windows are sold on the market, which can easily replace mechanical ones. The most convenient and durable are articulated electric windows for VAZ

When choosing them, you should pay attention to the configuration - some manufacturers provide only the mechanism without buttons, wiring and plugs.

Before starting work on installing power windows on a VAZ 2109, you need to secure the door glass with regular tape so that it does not “fall” down, and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. After this, remove the window handle by simply pulling it towards you. Then, using a plastic puller or a flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the door card. The card is mounted on pistons, which often break, so you need to prepare spare ones. Use a puller or a screwdriver to go around the perimeter of the card and remove it. Now access to the window lift mechanism is open.

We unscrew the two bolts that secure the mechanism to the glass bracket. We release the trapezoid by unscrewing four nuts - one at the bottom of the door, two in the middle and one at the top. After this, unscrew the fastening nuts in the area of ​​the old window lifter handle. In order to remove the old mechanism, you need to lower it down, freeing the guide and the place where the handle is attached, and then remove it through the upper hole in the metal of the door. We “fold” the new window regulator so that it takes up as little space as possible and place it in the door. All the mounting points are standard, so there is no need to drill or weld anything. First you need to secure the guide with two bolts in the middle of the door. After this, you need to lift the bar to the bracket on the glass and connect them with bolts. It is best to do this not manually, but by connecting the window lift motor to the battery.

Now you need to do the wiring. There is a hole for it at the bottom of the door, under the hinges. It is usually muted. You will also have to remove the front panel to power the window regulator. The new buttons that come with the kit are placed in their regular places, which are located on the side of the cigarette lighter. Some people choose buttons of a non-standard size or design, then they will have to be embedded. Power is also taken from the cigarette lighter, and backlight power comes from the dashboard backlight.

After the wiring is laid and connected, you need to test the window regulator. It may happen that instead of going down, the glass goes up - this means that the contacts on the button are mixed up. If the power windows don't work at all, try swapping the backlight wire with the power wire. Only after we have made sure that everything is working as normal can we fix the power window mechanism. When installing the card, it is best to use new pistons and simply plug the hole from the old handle.

Video review of electric windows for VAZ 2109

Sources

• https://avtomotoprof.ru/svoimi-rukami/kak-otremontirovat-steklopodemnik-samostoyatelno/
• https://tuningvaz.in/ustanovka-ehlektrosteklopodemnikov-vaz-2109/

FakeHeader

Comments 40

I had the same problem... I installed Katran and forgot... One thing is bad - it’s not cheap

Scissors pull more vigorously in any case, but if you are thinking about getting rid of these, then these are exactly what I need. I want 2 glasses and they have the most compact design.

Loosen the bolts. Slowly lift the glass. Where it is distorted, it comes loose. Fix it. Check. If you don’t walk smoothly on the sled, repeat the procedure.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try it!

They put them on 2108 and then they tear their ass on the Internet that there is nothing better than them in the world. however, my advice to you, as a person who has used both the handle and the forward and the golden eagle. The glass on the 08 is heavier than the glass on any 4-door. Due to the lift’s counter structure, it’s fucking difficult for the motor to lift such windows. The most ideal option is the design of scissors. There are no distortions and everything is attached to the standard holes. Yes, and they were made just for two-door cars. The forward has no adjustment, but there are washers and play in the holes for fastening. That's where you twist them.

ESP is an indispensable element in any car nowadays. The latest domestically produced cars were supplied with ESP straight from the factory, but they work very poorly and raise the window with great difficulty. In winter, the glass freezes to the seal and it is impossible to lower it in any way. It is possible to correct factory problems by installing the necessary elements and in this case these are power windows.

So, we go to disassemble the VAZ 2109, 2108, 21099 or buy an electric window lifter at a car store. It is best to purchase an ESP rack-and-pinion design, because it is much more reliable than a cable design.

In addition to the ESG itself, the kit should contain the following tools: brackets for installing window regulators on a VAZ 2109, control buttons, plugs in place of the standard window regulator handles, all kinds of washers and nuts. When all this is available, you need to start installing electric SPs on the car.

Installation must be carried out according to the following scheme: first, the device must be installed on one door, then on the other, then you need to lay the wiring, check the functionality of the entire structure, and install everything back. The installation will now be discussed in more detail. First, you need to remove the handle from the interior side, pull out the “soap box” under the door handle, unscrew the fastening bolts and carefully remove the door trim, while doing everything extremely carefully so as not to damage the latches.

If some of the latches were broken, then in this case it is better to immediately purchase new ones, because otherwise excess sound may be created in the cabin. Now, one by one, you need to remove the plugs, the handle lock, the handle itself, unscrew the handle bolts and remove the “pipe”. The manual SP is installed on 7 nuts and a few more bolts need to be secured to the window regulator to the glass itself. We unscrew all the bolts from the door and pull it out. To prevent the glass from breaking during operation, it is advisable to secure it with a cable. The window lifter guide block must be carefully unscrewed, several bolts of the glass lifting bracket through the holes in the door, two middle bolts of the SP guides, the lower bolt of the window lifter slide, the upper bolt of the SP slide.

Replacement of front side door glass on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

How to replace the front side door glass on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Removal: 1) First, remove the trim from the car door. (see “Removing the door trim”) 2) Next, from the car door, remove absolutely all the seals by prying them off with a screwdriver.

3) Then insert the previously removed handle into place, which is designed to lower the glass.

4) And then lower or raise the front window at the car door until both bolts securing the glass to the window lift mechanism are accessible, and then unscrew these two bolts using a wrench or socket.

5) And to complete the operation, remove the glass from the hole in the door in which it is located.

Installation: 1) First install the side glass in place.

2) Next, in the same way, tighten the two bolts that secure the glass to the window lift mechanism until they stop.

3) And then, install all the previously removed seals on the car door.

Vaz-Russia.ru

Important points

• dismantling the standard ones and subsequent installation of new ESPs on the rear doors of the VAZ 2109 is carried out in the same way as indicated above (since the rear doors differ from the front ones only in the location of the standard window lifter handle: on the rear doors it is shifted 3 cm to the left);
• When removing the door trim using a screwdriver, you must be careful: the plastic plugs over the mounting bolts are very fragile. They break easily if you apply too much force by prying them with a screwdriver;
• The simplest ESP connection diagram given above is far from the only one. Car enthusiasts who are well versed in electrical engineering prefer more reliable and complex circuits that use mounting blocks. Here is an example of one such scheme:

Connection diagram for ESP with mounting blocks for cars produced before 1998

But it should be remembered that this ESP connection diagram can only be used on cars manufactured before 98. for machines of a later release, a different scheme is used:

ESP connection diagram for VAZ 2109, produced after 1998

So, you can install an ESP on a VAZ 2109 yourself. In order to assemble a simple electrical circuit, no special electrical skills are required. Knowledge from a school physics course is quite enough. But at the stage of choosing window lifters you should be especially careful. It is strongly recommended to abandon both rack and pinion devices, even if their price seems incredibly attractive. Only lever window lifters should be installed, since they are the only guarantee that the glass will not freeze to the door on a frosty winter day.

Replacement of carpet flooring on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Over many years of driving a car, unfortunately, most parts wear out over time and therefore need to be replaced from time to time. Today we will analyze such a process as replacing a carpeted floor with a new one, and in addition we will also describe in detail the procedure for removing soundproofing material. All operations will be carried out on Samara family vehicles.

Note! To replace the carpeted floor and remove the soundproofing material, you will need: various types of screwdrivers, an extension cord with a socket head, as well as a wrench and thin pliers!

How to replace the carpeted floor and remove the soundproofing material on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Removal: 1) First you will need to remove the front seat along with the slides that are installed on it. (For how to remove the seat and skids, see the article: “Replacing the front seats”)

2) Next you will need to remove the floor tunnel lining. (How to remove the cladding, read the article entitled: “Replacing the floor cladding”)

3) Next, using a screwdriver on both sides, pry out the decorative plugs covering the bolts of the lower fastening of the seat belt bracket.

4) After the decorative plugs are removed, remove two bolts on each side of the seat belt bracket lower mounting.

5) Then remove the seat belt brackets on both sides, taking them out together with the unscrewed bolts that secure them.

Note! There is a metal sleeve on the bolts, so be careful not to lose it!

6) Next, unscrew the two screws that secure the middle pad to the stand, and then remove the pad.

7) Now move to the front side doors, and as a result, on each side, unscrew the three screws securing the upper sill trims.

Note! After the screws securing the trims are removed, remove them from the car!

Then, using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the front lower sill trims on both sides.

Note! When the fixing screws of the lower trims are unscrewed, remove them from the car by hand!

9) Next, move to the rear doors of the car and then use a screwdriver on each side to remove three screws that secure the lower rear door sill trims.

Note! Once the screws are removed, remove the covers!

10) And finally, from either side, use your hand to pick up the carpeting of the floor and thereby remove it.

Note! Immediately under the carpeted floor, there is soundproofing material, if you need it, then remove it!

Installation: • Installing a new carpet floor is done in the reverse order of removal, but during installation you should definitely know the small nuances that we will discuss below:

1) Firstly, when installing soundproofing material, be sure to check it for moisture. If the material is wet, dry it.

2) To start installing the sill overlays, you must first start with the lower overlays and after installing them, you need to move on to installing the upper and middle overlays.

3) And in conclusion, we note that there is no need to tighten the screws securing the linings too much, because this can cause them to break.

Vaz-Russia.ru

Source: www.allanda-auto.ru

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

PRODUCTION: Italy.

APPLICATION: electric window regulators (ESP) produced by the Italian company SPAL are of a universal type, the design of which allows them to be installed on any car. They are designed for installation in the front and rear doors of cars of any automaker and model.

DELIVERY SET: 2 electric drives, installation kit, instructions.

DECLARED CHARACTERISTICS: nominal voltage - 12 V. Time to raise/lower the glass is no more than 4 seconds. The nominal force when lifting glass on VAZ cars is about 140 N. The torque on the axis of the drive handle created by the electric motor is 14.3 kgcm at 118 rpm. The current consumption in this case is 3 A. At a torque of 86 kgcm, the number of revolutions of the drive handle axis is 22 rpm. The current consumption is 15 A. The noise level is 58 dB. Warranty - 18 months.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ-2109 with their subsequent connection

So, if you have the necessary ESP kit, you can begin installing it in the car.

First of all, before starting any manipulations with the wiring, you need to turn off the power to the electrical systems from the battery.

After turning off the power, we proceed to dismantling the door cards. This process should not cause you any difficulties, but it is worth having a set of mounting pins nearby.

After exposing the metal body of the door, we proceed to remove the installed mechanical lift mechanism. At this stage, tape will help make access to the mechanism easier - use it to secure the glass so that the standard mechanism is freely accessible.

Once we have access to the mechanism, we begin to unscrew the bolts that secure it.

Remove the installed guide, and then unscrew the bottom nut.

Next, twist the two nuts located in the middle.

And then the last upper nut, which secures the mechanism.

After carrying out this work, the guide should be free. Next, unscrew the remaining three nuts located around the rotation handle.

That's it, the window lifter mechanism is no longer secured by anything and you can begin to remove it from the door body. To do this, you need to direct the lower pin of the guide into a special hole on the door.

Using a screwdriver, pull out the upper trapezoid mount.

After this, it becomes possible to remove the window regulator from the door space.

After the old mechanism has been dismantled, you can begin installing the ESP. The good news for owners is that the new window lift mechanism is installed using exactly the same mounts as the old one. The new assembled mechanism must be installed in place of the old one. We do this through a special (the largest) “window” in the door body.

We fix the mechanism placed in the interior of the door using two fastening pins, which we install in two free holes where previously there were nuts securing the middle part of the old model of the window regulator. Then we align both holes and tighten the nuts there.

Next, we combine the fastenings of the lever system and the fastenings directly on the glass. To do this you will need an external power source. Just connect the wires to the electric motor and turn on the power.

After the glass strips and the ESP mechanism match, we secure them with the bolts from the kit.

Units subject to constant friction should be thoroughly lubricated.

After completing the installation of the mechanism, we proceed to adjusting the electrical component of the ESP. First, we outline the route along which the wires will be run from the motors to the activator buttons. There is even a special place for installing ESP buttons - these are two plugs located to the right of the cigarette lighter. The most labor-intensive process is pulling the necessary wires from the door to the pillar, and then under the dashboard. Special holes are provided for this procedure.

It is best to take it with a reserve so that the wires are not tight anywhere. This will eliminate the possibility of them breaking. We power the circuit from the cigarette lighter. Below is the connection diagram:

After connecting the wires, we check the functionality of the entire system. We supply power from the battery and turn on the dimensions. If the activator keys are not backlit, it is necessary to swap the sockets on the key contacts (symbols 3 and 6 in the diagram). Window lifter installation diagrams:

The last thing we do is check the operation of the new power windows. If everything is installed correctly and the mechanism works correctly, then the glass should move smoothly and without any jerking.

If the operation of the ESP does not raise any questions, we install the door card in place. At this point, the installation of electric windows on the VAZ-2109 is completed and your car has become more technologically advanced and convenient.

Window lifter design

Drive types

Let's start with the drive mechanism, as already noted, it comes in two types - mechanical (also known as manual) and electric.

1. The mechanical one is a small gear reducer. With this type of drive, a cable actuator is usually used. Therefore, such a gearbox consists of two gears that mesh with each other. The drive gear is small in size, and it is the one that the driver rotates using a handle mounted on the door. The driven one is much larger in size; it is a drum for winding the cable. Due to the different sizes of these gears, relative ease of opening and closing the glass is achieved.
2. An electric drive also uses a gearbox, but of the “worm-gear” type. There is a worm on the electric motor shaft, which is engaged by a gear. The drive motor itself is of a reversible type, that is, when the polarity is changed, its direction of rotation changes, which allows the use of just one element to both lower and raise the glass. This drive is used with all types of actuators.

Actuators

Now, regarding the actuators. With both types of drives, the cable type can be used. At the same time, for mechanical and electrical mechanisms their design differs, and significantly.

Let's consider the design of a mechanical drive and a cable actuator using the example of a VAZ-2107. In addition to the gearbox, it consists of 4 rollers between which the cable moves, with the ends fixed to the drum. One of the rollers is a tension roller and ensures proper tension of the cable for the entire period of operation, since it stretches during operation.

The two rollers are the top ones and they are connected using tension plates to the glass brackets. Because of this, when lowering or raising the rollers move along with the glass. The last roller is the bottom one, it is stationary and is fixed to the door.

A cable is laid between these rollers in a special way. Moreover, it is not looped. When lifting or lowering, the end on one side is unwound from the gearbox drum, and the other is wound up. Thanks to this, the ability to move the upper rollers, and with them the side glass, is achieved.

In an electric drive, the cable actuator has a different design. It consists of a guide at the ends of which rollers are installed. The electric motor with gearbox is located slightly to the side of this guide. The drive cable is laid between the guide rollers and goes to the gearbox drum, where it is secured.

In the area between the guide rollers, a slider is attached to the cable, which in turn is connected to the glass. When the electric motor is turned on, one side of the cable begins to wind onto the drum, and the other begins to unwind. Due to this, the cable moves between the rollers, and with it the slider with the glass.

The lever actuator operates on a different principle. There is a lever, at one end of which there is a semicircular gear sector connected to the driven gear of the gearbox. Its other end is connected to a bar on which the glass is mounted. The lever on the sector side is connected by means of a bracket to a fixed plate fixed to the door.

There are actuators that include two levers in the design, with the second one playing the role of an auxiliary one.

The third type of actuator is rack and pinion, and there are several types of it. One of these mechanisms has a fixed guide with a gear sector along its entire length. This sector engages with the gearbox gear. In this design, the motor and gearbox are movable and connected to the glass. That is, when turned on, the engine with the gearbox and glass begin to move relative to the rack.

Video: Replacing a VAZ 2109 window regulator. Do it yourself!

Also, the design of electric windows includes a control mechanism, which consists of ordinary keys through which the electric motors are powered from the vehicle’s on-board network.