The fuel pump of the VAZ 2107 carburetor pumps poorly

A brief history of the disease: the car often sharply reduced speed, twitched, sneezed, and sometimes simply gained momentum poorly. Replaced the spark plugs, adjusted the carburetor, checked the ignition, wires, trombler, and changed the air filter. The fuel pump remained. I just went to buy it, and then the car won’t start anymore! By the time I got out to change it, 2 weeks had passed and the battery was dead. I changed the fuel pump, but I see that the filter is empty (fuel) and both chambers in the carburetor are empty and one is even a little rusty. Those. “pumps” but no gasoline flows. What to do? Tow to service?

The headline is worthy, but seriously, there is too little data on the malfunction. Write in more detail and let's systematize it. 1. Charge the battery. 2. Check the BN as described below. Further - depending on the symptoms.

And “There is such a malfunction - VAZ-2105” - that’s great.

I need a bottle of gasoline. The fuel filter is connected to a metal tube through which gasoline flows from the tank by a rubber hose. You remove it (the hose) from the metal tube and dip it in a bottle of gasoline. There is a manual fuel pump on the fuel pump - you pump it up.

If the force on the lever has dropped, that means everything, the needle valve is closed, you can start it.

If it doesn't wobble, try cranking the engine a little - put it in 4th or 5th gear and push the car a little. then try again.

if the BN still doesn’t pump, remove the hose AFTER the BN and dip it in a bottle of gasoline, lift it higher so that the gasoline flows by gravity into the carburetor.

Let's take it in order > Situation: apparently there is no gasoline flowing into the fuel pump (there is gas in the tank === If this is the case, then disconnect the wire from the pump (the part that goes to the tank) and blow air there. If If there is gurgling in the tank, it means there is leakage. Just in case, check the air tank drainage in the tank. This is a tube that connects the tank with the atmosphere. Maybe water got in there, froze, the pump is trying to pump out gasoline, and Vacc does not work.

> Brief history of the disease: the car often sharply reduced speed, twitched, sneezed, and sometimes simply gained momentum poorly. Replaced the spark plugs, adjusted the carburetor, checked the ignition, wires, trombler, and changed the air filter. The fuel pump remained. I just went to buy it, and then the car won’t start anymore! By the time I got out to change it, 2 weeks had passed and the battery was dead. I changed the fuel pump, but I see that the filter is empty (fuel) and both chambers in the carburetor are empty and one is even a little rusty. Those. “pumps” but no gasoline flows. ===What does it pump if the battery doesn’t turn? With a tongue, by hand? Is there any resistance? The fact is that the engine can settle in such a position that you can’t pump it up with a reed. Turn the CV shaft 1/4-1/2 turn and try to pump it in this position. What about the needle valve? It might be stuck closed. Well, the mesh filter in the carb is not accidentally clogged with some kind of lime. Anything can happen at our gas stations.

> What to do? Tow to service? Yes, it doesn’t seem like that’s a problem. Try checking other points mentioned above. Charge the battery. You can also go to the service if things are getting tight and the frost is still here.

If it is faulty, the fuel supply to the carburetor is completely or partially stopped, which in some cases entails the impossibility of starting both a cold and a hot engine, the engine may also start and stall, and unstable idling is possible.

Checking the fuel pump of VAZ cars

1. Check the serviceability and operation of the entire fuel supply system.

Remove the fuel hose from the fuel pump discharge fitting. Press the manual fuel pump lever several times. If the fuel pump is working properly, a strong stream of fuel should spray out of it. If this does not happen, we carry out a second check.

Checking the serviceability of the fuel system of VAZ cars

2. Check the serviceability of the intake valve.

3. Check the tightness of the exhaust valve.

Place your finger on the hole in the pressure fitting (which is connected to the carburetor) and press the manual pumping lever several times. A stream of air should come out of the fitting hole, which can be easily felt by your finger.

Checking the outlet valve of the DAAZ fuel pump for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Causes of malfunction of fuel pumps of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 cars

Remove the fuel pump cover. We take out the filter. We clean it, wash it in gasoline, blow it with compressed air. We replace the deformed one.

Fuel purification strainer for DAAZ fuel pump

A sign of their malfunction may be the presence of fuel leaks on the fuel pump body and the smell of gasoline from the engine oil in the engine. The fuel pump stops pumping. Although not necessary. Remove the upper part of the fuel pump housing. We take out the diaphragm assembly. Unscrew the nut on the rod and remove the diaphragms (there are three of them). We replace them with new ones. We assemble everything in reverse order.

Diaphragms (membranes) of the DAAZ fuel pump

Inlet and outlet valves of the fuel pump for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Measuring the amount of protrusion of the fuel pump pusher

We only change the outer thick gasket, which is between the thermal insulating spacer and the fuel pump. Fuel pump repair kits are sold with ready-made gaskets, but you can also cut them yourself from a sheet of paronite.

Gaskets under the fuel pump

The protrusion of the drive pusher beyond the norm of the fuel pump increases its performance, leads to an increase in the fuel level in the float chamber, and this means increased fuel consumption, black spark plugs, difficult starting and a number of other problems that arise when a car engine runs on an over-enriched fuel mixture.

We remove the upper part of the fuel pump housing, the rod with diaphragms and inspect the spring. We replace the broken one.

Fuel pump return spring

Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure;
the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;

Considering that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both the mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will look at what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Fuel pump malfunctions of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 cars

On VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 cars, fuel pump failure is a fairly common occurrence.
If it is faulty, the fuel supply to the carburetor is completely or partially stopped, which in some cases entails the impossibility of starting both a cold and a hot engine, the engine may also start and stall, and unstable idling is possible. If you suspect that the fuel pump is faulty, you should first check it. Let's look at this procedure using the example of their two most common types - DAAZ and Pekar. They can be installed on both rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles.

Checking the fuel pump of VAZ cars

1. Check the serviceability and operation of the entire fuel supply system.

Checking the serviceability of the fuel system of VAZ cars

2. Check the serviceability of the intake valve.

Remove the fuel hose from the fuel pump suction fitting (we now have both fuel hoses removed from both fittings). We plug it with our finger and press the manual fuel pump lever several times. You should feel a vacuum on your finger (it should be sucked into the fitting). If there is a vacuum, the fuel pump is working; if not, look for a fault in the fuel lines or gas tank.

Vacuum at the suction and discharge fittings of the fuel pump - checking the serviceability of the inlet and outlet valves of the fuel pump

3. Check the tightness of the exhaust valve.

Checking the outlet valve of the DAAZ fuel pump for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Causes of malfunction of fuel pumps of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 cars

— The fuel pump strainer is clogged or deformed

Remove the fuel pump cover. We take out the filter. We clean it, wash it in gasoline, blow it with compressed air. We replace the deformed one.

Fuel purification strainer for DAAZ fuel pump

On the Pekar fuel pump and similar ones, you can remove the filter by unscrewing the suction fitting from the cap. The cover itself does not need to be removed.

— Diaphragms are faulty (thin, cracked)

Diaphragms (membranes) of the DAAZ fuel pump

There is only one diaphragm on the Pekar fuel pump. You can remove it by removing the cover. To disconnect, turn it 90 degrees.

— Fuel pump valves are faulty

Remove the fuel pump cover and strainer. Visually inspect the cavity of the fuel pump and the inlet valve. Remove the upper part of the housing and inspect the exhaust valve. If the valves are not hermetically pressed into the body, are not pressed tightly, or have lost mobility, the fuel pump must be replaced. If there is a blockage, remove it and blow everything out with compressed air.

Inlet and outlet valves of the fuel pump for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

On the Pekar gasoline pump, both valves are located in the cover and their condition can be assessed by removing it from its body.

— The fuel pump pusher is worn out or deformed

Remove the fuel pump from the studs by unscrewing the two nuts securing it. We leave the gaskets, heat-insulating spacer and pusher in the engine. Rotate the crankshaft so that the pusher is recessed as much as possible. We measure the protrusion of the pusher above the plane of the upper gasket. It should be 0.8 - 1.3 mm. If the protrusion does not fit into this size, then we try to adjust it by selecting shims of either thinner or thicker thickness, or by changing the pusher.

Measuring the amount of protrusion of the fuel pump pusher

Gaskets under the fuel pump

— The spring under the diaphragms broke

We remove the upper part of the fuel pump housing, the rod with diaphragms and inspect the spring. We replace the broken one.

Fuel pump return spring

How to help the engine work

Sometimes the VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start well. To help a cold engine work, you need to perform the following steps.

Press the handle of the fuel pump to pump gasoline into the carburetor float chamber.
Place the gearshift lever in neutral position.
Pull the choke toward you, closing the throttle valve, and with the ignition on, try to crank the starter. If unsuccessful, repeat the action after some time.
If the car starts, let it idle, release the throttle and take your foot off the clutch pedal.
In the cold season, try to turn the crankshaft several times, turn the headlights on and off, pull out the choke handle, squeeze the clutch and turn the starter. In winter, to keep warm and improve engine performance, it is recommended to wrap the radiator grille. When the engine starts, the pressure control and battery charging lights on the operating panel should go out.

The driver starts the car

When the car is warmed up, its engine should start running immediately. Other situations arise when the machine does not. Starting a hot engine should take place with the throttle valve open and the gas pedal depressed to one third of its full travel. As soon as the engine starts, you need to release the accelerator pedal. If the start is unsuccessful, repeating the described steps may lead to difficulty starting the engine and flooding the spark plugs with gasoline. If this does happen, the turned out candles must be dried with air.

What is the device

The gasoline pump is a cylindrical barrel measuring 20x15 cm, located under the hood of the car in the carburetor area. It has two tubes, one of them pumps gasoline, and the other supplies it to the carburetor. It also has a lever that is designed for manual pumping of fuel if the mechanical system is not functioning.

The design of the device includes:

The chamber into which fuel flows from the tank.
Fuel inlet and outlet valves.
Diaphragm.
The ghost lever operates the pumping mechanism.
Return spring.
Fist.
Camshaft
Sealing gasket.

The operating principle will tell you what each part does.

Operating principle

It works quite simply, just like regular water pumps. In order for the device to begin to function, a mechanical action is applied to it, carried out by the diaphragm. It moves up and down due to the effects of vacuum and pressure. During the downward stroke, a vacuum is created and fuel is sucked into the chamber. When the diaphragm moves upward, it creates pressure and the suction valve closes, and the discharge valve opens, through which fuel flows into the carburetor. The return spring performs the function of causing the movement of the diaphragm.

What are the causes of malfunctions?

The main problem that causes malfunction of the fuel pump of a VAZ-2107 car lies in the sealing gasket. It creates a sealed chamber where the phenomenon of rarefaction and pressure occurs. When this gasket wears out, the seal is broken and not only gasoline, but also air is sucked into the chamber. When the diaphragm moves back, fuel leaks out through a loose seal. Another reason for the pump not to function is clogging of the inlet valve channels. But, this problem was solved by installing a special filter element in front of the gas pump, which extends the service life of the fuel injection device much longer. Rupture of the internal membrane also poses a threat to the performance of the element. If such a problem occurs, it is very difficult to start the engine even when pumping fuel manually.

How to determine the malfunction?

For a VAZ-2107 car, it is easy to find out if the fuel pump is not working. To do this, you need to disconnect the tube from which gasoline enters the carburetor. Next, manual pumping is carried out and if liquid leakage is observed, then the cause of the malfunction is not in the fuel pump. If fuel does not come out of the tube, then the device is faulty, or rather, the problem most likely lies in the inlet valve. You can check this as follows:

Remove the intake valve tube.
Close the inlet port with your finger.
Press the pump lever.

If you feel a vacuum on your finger, then the device is working properly and there is no point in disassembling it.

Fuel pump repair

The device for pumping fuel into the carburetor is subject to repair, unless, of course, the service life of the device is very long. Repair includes disassembling the device, cleaning and replacing worn parts. So, repairs are best carried out with the device removed from its seat, but there are also simple breakdowns that can be repaired without removal. Repairs are carried out in the following sequence:

The main semicircular cover, which is secured with a bolt, is removed.
After removing the cover, we carry out a visual inspection. The filter is removed and needs to be washed and blown out for cleaning.
Further analysis of the device is underway. The six bolts are unscrewed using a screwdriver and the device is separated into two parts.
The intake and exhaust valves are cleaned. You can wash it in gasoline or solvent and spray it with a stream of dense air.
To remove the diaphragm, you need to rotate it 90 degrees and carefully remove it.
Next, we repair the diaphragm, unscrew it and remove all the components.
Only flexible membranes are damaged, so it is these that need to be replaced.
When the replacement is made, it is important to assemble the diaphragm in the same sequence as originally.
The device itself is assembled in the reverse order of removal.
When installing the filter, it is necessary to ensure that the hole in it is located above the valve.
By connecting the two parts, a gasket is installed, which can be additionally lubricated with sealant.

A hot engine stalls while driving or idling

Let's start with the fact that the symptoms and signs of this problem can manifest themselves in different ways. Quite often, the power unit may stall in idle mode, and unstable operation and complete stop of the internal combustion engine often occurs after the engine has warmed up.

First of all, diagnostics should begin with checking the spark plugs and their condition. At the same time, high-voltage armored wires should also be checked. This must be done because there may be weak sparking or no spark at all on the spark plug electrodes. Interruptions in the spark lead to serious malfunctions in the operation of the engine, as a result of which both the cold unit and the engine stalls after warming up. Replacing spark plugs and high-voltage wires often helps solve the problem.

Another common situation is when the engine stalls hot or cold immediately after starting it. In this case, on many modern cars with an injection power system, you should check the idle speed sensor. The failure of this element of the electronic engine control system often leads to the fact that the engine is simply unable to operate at idle speed.

In some cases, cleaning the XX regulator helps, in others the device should be replaced. On cars with a carburetor, the idle jets may become clogged and other carburetor malfunctions may occur. Injection engines also require additional checking of the synchronization sensor (DSPS), and possible problems with the fuel pump should not be ruled out. One way or another, if the engine stalls when hot or this constantly happens with a cold unit, then in-depth diagnostics will be required.

On carburetor cars with a mechanical ignition distributor, a situation arises when the slider stops performing its functions. Quite often, after the engine has warmed up, the central wire on the ignition coil may come off, problems with the ignition unit capacitor, etc. may occur. A known problem with cars with a mechanical fuel pump is that the engine stalls in hot weather. This occurs due to overheating, since the high temperature outside and significant heating of the engine compartment do not allow the pump to cool properly.

At the same time, attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filters. If the filter element becomes clogged, then as the load increases and the speed increases, the required amount of fuel does not flow into the engine through the dirty filter and the engine stalls.

We add that usually before a significant decrease in the filter capacity and a complete stop of the motor, the malfunction progresses. At first, the car may not pick up speed, starts poorly, dips appear when you press the gas pedal, the engine is unstable or jerks when you press the accelerator, in transition modes, etc.

Modern cars with an injector have an electronic control unit (ECU). This unit is quite rare, but still fails. In this case, the engine may stall while driving, and the problem itself manifests itself in various situations, including after the internal combustion engine has warmed up. In this case, as well as if it is necessary to check individual ECM sensors, it is necessary to carry out computer diagnostics of the vehicle. The system will display existing errors in the form of codes, after decoding which it is possible to localize the fault. If the problem is “floating”, that is, it occurs periodically, then it is recommended to purchase a compact device that allows you to read information about engine operation via the OBD connector. Thanks to the subsequent display of data on the screen of a smartphone, tablet or laptop with a pre-installed program, this solution will allow you to record failures in real time.

Causes of problems with the fuel pump

There may be several reasons for pump failure. The main reason, and perhaps the most common - there is not enough pressure or the pump is not pushing at all - usually the culprit is a cracked diaphragm. Low pressure symptoms can also be caused by leaking pump valves.

Less common problems include wear on the cam actuated lever, wear on the lever shaft, decreased spring force, clogged pumps due to prolonged failure to clean the sump, and broken sump, which is often glass. Another common problem is that any of the return lines to the fuel tank are clogged when the pump pumps under too much pressure and floods the engine. Damage to housings is very rare, but such defects usually lead to replacement of the entire pump.

Tank check

Naturally, the search must be carried out from the very starting point, that is, from the tank. Often the problem for beginners is that they simply ran out of gas. But there may be other problems associated with the structural components installed in the tank. Below is a picture that helps you understand what could cause the engine to stop:

Fig.1. Fuel tank:

1 – tank cover; 2 – drain plug (not present on all cars); 3 – fuel level sensor float; 4 – mesh filter element; 5 – fuel receiver.

This image shows that there is gasoline, as indicated by the sensor float. But in real life there is no such cut, and it is impossible to visually verify that there is fuel in the tank. In addition, the level sensor often “lies”, showing that there is gasoline, but in fact it has already been all used up. Therefore, you should first make sure there is gasoline. In carburetor cars this is easy to do, since there is no mesh in the neck of the tank. That is, you just need to take a thin metal rod and insert it into the tank until it stops, and then see if there is gasoline.

It is imperative to open the tank lid, and you should listen to see if there is a “sigh” from the neck. The fact is that there is a ventilation hole in the lid through which air passes into the tank. If it is clogged, then as gasoline is consumed, a vacuum forms in the tank, due to which the fuel pump cannot pump gasoline into the system. The signal that the hole is blocked is precisely a “sigh” from the neck. Sometimes it is enough to clean the lid for the power system to start working normally.

Reasons for lack of submission

The owner of a VAZ 2106 is faced with a choice - which path to take in order to restore the functionality of the pump.

The first option is the simplest and most reliable

, but expensive in terms of cost. Any decent service station has equipment that, in a minimum amount of time, will not only measure the pressure at the inlet and the vacuum at the outlet of the fuel pump, but also identify the part causing defects in the operation of the equipment.

Second

The option is not the simplest, not so fast, but practically free, except for the time spent on it - do all the diagnostic and repair work yourself in the garage.

The process of installing a fuel pump on a VAZ 2107

Now, after dismantling the fuel pump, before installing a new one, you must first check it. If the mileage of your VAZ 2107 car is more than 100 thousand km, then before installation, be sure to check the minimum protrusion of the pusher. Since the location of the fuel pump, as well as the correct stroke of the diaphragm unit of the fuel pump, directly depends on its position. In the case when the stroke of the diaphragm unit is disrupted or its position is incorrect, the fuel injection by the pump is sharply reduced; in other cases, the diaphragm itself may break directly. Changing the protrusion of the pusher on a VAZ 2107 is very simple; to do this, you need to select gaskets of the required height, installed between the spacer and the cylinders.

Let's start installing a new fuel injection pump on a VAZ 2107:

When you check the amount of protrusion, this must be done with the gasket installed, taking into account its thickness, we are talking about the gasket that is installed between the spacer and the cylinders. Temporarily during the measurement period, you can install two gaskets - between the cylinder block and the spacer, for the purpose of greater accuracy;
Correctly set the minimum projection by slowly rotating the crankshaft. Press the spacer onto the cylinders and measure how much the pusher protrudes. Its protrusion may fluctuate, but not more than 1.3 millimeters, or not less than 0.8 millimeters;
In the case when the pusher protrudes more than due, then it is necessary to replace the gasket between the spacer and the cylinders with a new one;
Well, if the pusher is not visible enough, then for this you need to reduce the thickness of the gasket (less than 0.3 millimeters).

This article described one of the possible problems associated with a malfunction of the VAZ 2107 fuel injection pump. Now, having read this information, you can easily find the location of the fuel pump in your car without unnecessary difficulties and, if necessary, dismantle it and correctly install a new one.

Pump repair or replacement?

There are two ways to get rid of a fuel system malfunction. In the first place is expensive, but reliable - replacing the entire fuel pump of a carburetor VAZ 2107. In second place is installing a repair kit. What's better? If you have a full hand and can carry out all the work perfectly, then, of course, it will be cheaper to install only new internals. But if you are a driver who rarely encounters such difficulties, it is better to purchase a new device and install it on your car. Fortunately, this procedure is simple - you need to unscrew two nuts and loosen the clamps.

But it is necessary to mention the quality of the elements that are included in the repair kit. Although no, their quality can be excellent, but in terms of size they will not fit exactly into the places that are intended for them. In most cases, repairs help for a couple of weeks, after which time the pump begins to malfunction again. Therefore, if the fuel pump on a VAZ 2107 does not work, it is better to install a new one. Even if, of course, its value is high, but if a defect appears, it can be exchanged. And the new one will last for several years, you won’t even touch it.

How to check the performance of the fuel pump without removing it?

First of all, you need to carefully inspect the fuel pump. Particular attention should be paid to the fit of the cover 4 to the body 3. The skew of the cover, its weak tightening, and an incorrectly installed nylon mesh filter 2, which also serves as a sealing gasket, contribute to the leakage of gasoline in the connector of the cover and the body or in the mating of the cover and the bolt 5 of its fastening.

Fuel may also leak through the outer spacer 1. This occurs when the working diaphragms 8 are damaged. If the screws 7 securing the housing to the bottom cover are loosened, air may leak into the vacuum cavity, and therefore the fuel pump will work intermittently, supplying fuel to the mixture with air.

If you find traces of oil leakage, check first of all that the fuel pump is securely attached to the cylinder block, and then determine the condition of the sealing heat-insulating gaskets. The fact is that oil often leaks in these places when the seal is broken.

Without removing the fuel pump, you can check its functionality. To do this, simply disconnect the fuel line coming from the carburetor and, using the manual pumping lever, check the strength of the fuel supply. Remember that manual pumping is impossible if pusher 1 (Fig. below) is at the top of eccentric 2, and the diaphragm rod is correspondingly in its lowest position.

Fuel pump pusher position

In this case, you need to use the starting handle to turn the engine crankshaft just one revolution. This will allow the eccentric and the rod to take a position in which the manual fuel pumping mechanism will be operational.

A working fuel pump delivers gasoline in a full pulsating stream without noticeable air. To be more confident, you can check the operation of the fuel pump using a mechanical drive by turning the engine crankshaft with the starter. At the same time, you should not be embarrassed by the fact that a stream of gasoline will not appear from the first revolutions.

If you suspect a malfunction of the internal elements of the fuel pump, it is, of course, necessary to remove it, disassemble it and eliminate the defects.

Air leak

Often the reason for gasoline not flowing is the junction of the pipes with the fuel pump and carburetor, since air will be sucked in through the leaks, and gasoline will not be pumped.

Air leaks can also occur between the components of the carburetor, as well as at the point where it is attached to the intake manifold. Therefore, when looking for the reason for the engine stopping, you should check the tightness of all fastening nuts and bolts. In some cases, the culprit is a rupture of the gaskets located between the parts of the carburetor, as well as at the point where it is attached to the manifold.

After checking the condition of the gaskets and tightening the fasteners, you can check the functionality of the power system.

Next, we will describe the reasons for interruptions in the supply of gasoline, which usually do not happen on the road, but they should not be ruled out.

The fuel pump works, but does not pump gasoline, the main causes of failure

One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car.
The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure. Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure;
the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;

Diagnostics

The very first thing when diagnosing, as noted above, listen when you turn on the ignition to see if there is any noise from the fuel pump. The absence of a characteristic buzzing may indicate that:

VAZ 2107 fuel pump fuse is faulty;
relay malfunction;
open circuit of the fuel pump;
motor malfunction;
ECU malfunction.

Below is a simplified connection diagram for a VAZ 2107 injector fuel pump:

You can check the fuel pump on a VAZ 2107 injector simply by checking the voltage at its connection block with a tester. The presence of voltage will indicate a malfunction of the electric motor. Instead of a tester (multimeter), you can use a test lamp to diagnose a malfunction.

In the absence of one, this can be done by disconnecting the connection block for the fuel pump and fuel level control and applying voltage with wires from the battery to the place where the gray wire is connected +12 and to the place where the black wire is connected - minus. A humming pump will indicate a faulty fuse, power circuit or ECU.

The fuel pump does not pump..(

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#21 alexdoc

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Registration 04-March 09

it doesn’t pump manually or with the starter..( (there is gasoline in the tank).. the filter in front of the fuel pump is empty.. what could be wrong and how can it be fixed

First try to sip gas from the tank with your mouth. If you swallow it, then the problem is only in the pump; if you suck out the air, remove the sensor from the tank and see what’s there. If neither gas nor air flows, then

Fuel line clogged or clogged

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#22 Edelweiss75

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Message modified: Edelweiss75, 04 October 2013 - 06:48.

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#23 Edelweiss75

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#24 Yurec77

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From: Kyiv
Auto: 21043/lanos.

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#25 Navstar

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#26 alexdoc

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#27 vavanchik-h

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#28 Visitor

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#29 alexart

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Registration 15-December 08

From: Donetsk region
Car: 2101,1977

Should the foot lift all the way up on its own?

Now she goes down with her finger and goes up quite a bit.

The return spring broke, this happens often.

Immediately after reassembly, I managed to manually pump gasoline a couple of times (you could see it in the filter), but then it stopped pumping again and the foot fell through.

Well, the pump won’t pump, the manual mode is for pumping after inactivity! Then it idles.

Do I need some kind of putty between the pump and the motor or is there just a gasket? when I separated it from the engine, it was not entirely clear what was there.

There are adjusting shims there, thick textolite, it's like heat-insulating, and cardboard, for adjusting the extension of the fuel pump drive rod.

Added after 2 minutes

The pumps on the classics are the same

I didn't thoroughly disassemble the pump.

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#30 Visitor

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#31 USSRMoto

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From: KiyoF
Car: Subaru Forester SH 2009

The only thing cooler than black bekha is Lada

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#32 Visitor

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Registration 09-April 15

Visitor, it’s better to try with the car running. In manual mode, it will pump gasoline into the carb and will not pump any further, it seems.

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#33 avtopeca

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#34 BACCARA

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Registration 09-April 10

Good afternoon! Same problem. In the morning you need to pump it up to start it. After driving, warmed up, turning it off, it won’t start until it cools down. The pump is a plunger pump. Even when it warms up, I give it speed, it chokes as if there is not enough fuel. Please advise. PS. Now I drive a classic.

the simplest thing is the valve.

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#35 Visitor

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Registration 09-April 15

Good afternoon! Same problem. In the morning you need to pump it up to start it. After driving, warmed up, turning it off, it won’t start until it cools down. The pump is a plunger pump. Even when it warms up, I give it speed, it chokes as if there is not enough fuel. Please advise. PS. Now I drive a classic.

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#36 bars59

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But gasoline remains in the float chamber (this is about a hot place).

Like this: Sergey72

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#37 Sergey72

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Registration 04-November 11

Is it there? If the pump doesn’t pump up, then the chamber is practically empty. In the literal sense, you’re running on fumes. I'm already a nerd too. I understand everything, but I'm fucked up. The baker, his mother, in the cold pumps it up for beauty, it just warms up and begins to close and stall. I wet a rag with water, put it on top, for about 20 kilometers everything is OK. Today I went through the stock one, changed the valves, membranes, We'll see. In the store, a huckster with an important face says take a new Baker for 250 grams, it’s a plunger. And apparently I’ve never even heard of what a plunger is. What kind of plunger is there? The same valves and membrane, and only one, that is, in the event of a breakthrough, the gasoline will go into crankcase. The design of the valve head is simply changed and there is no tank in the upper part in which a vapor lock supposedly forms and the pump does not pump in the heat.

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#38 ejik401

Users

2 messages

Registration 29-September 16

From: Snow City
Car: VAZ 2107 ZNG, Snow beige

Good day to all. I drive on gas, but in cold weather I warm up on gasoline. Once again, when I had to pump up gasoline, since the fuel filter was empty when switching to gas, I was faced with the fact that when pumping, I could hear air being sucked in and when the gasoline picks up, it leaks through the joint on the top cover of the fuel pump. The losses are, of course, small, but it takes quite a long time to pump gasoline and this creates inconvenience. Is there a cure for this gastrointestinal tract infection and how?

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#39 July

Users

1,341 messages

Registration 04-October 09

From: Ukraine
Car: VAZ 2104, VAZ 2101

ejik401 , the gas pump should always be filled with gasoline, regardless of the type of fuel, the valve that closes gasoline should be located after the pump.

Remove the cover from the pump (10 mm wrench); under the cover there is a gasket with a mesh. Check all surfaces for scratches, flash and other irregularities.

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Complaint

#40 ejik401

Users

2 messages

Registration 29-September 16

From: Snow City
Car: VAZ 2107 ZNG, Snow beige

ejik401 , the gas pump should always be filled with gasoline, regardless of the type of fuel, the valve that closes gasoline should be located after the pump.

Remove the cover from the pump (10 mm wrench); under the cover there is a gasket with a mesh. Check all surfaces for scratches, flash and other irregularities.

sorted it out. I shook off the small debris (a couple of grains in total) and collected it. not leaking yet

Lada 2106 2001 - self-repair

Comments 8

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The problem of gasoline evaporation and the formation of an air lock in the gasoline pump lies in the design of the gasoline pump itself. In the DAAZ there is a “parasitic” volume in the hemispherical lid, which serves as a catalyst for the formation of a plug, but in the baker there is no such volume, and the filter itself is mounted in the inlet fitting of the pump, but the baker has only one diaphragm and there is no safety fuel discharge in case of a membrane break.

mm interesting, but sometimes you also get up, the fuel pump heats up and you spray it with water, you wait and then you drive on)

I don’t agree about Pekar. It’s been working for about five years now and I don’t know any problems with it, the only drawback is that the outlet fitting is poorly flared, and it has never failed in any heat or cold! And such b.n. with round lids I changed a lot until I got tired of throwing away money. Almost everyone had problems in the heat, many had membranes leaking after a short period of use. With the Baker I forgot about all these shortcomings, only with a normal Baker, and not a Chinese ga.n!

Then you were lucky with Pekar, but I came across China twice :/

There was a lot of China on the market then and even more so now. It’s not difficult to distinguish between a normal one and a Chinese one, it’s very noticeable by the casting and coloring of the case, at least five years ago I bought it that way.

Interesting, this is the first time I’ve seen such a system, I’ve mostly only heard it in words. Is it working fine at the moment? On what principle is the return line built?

So far everything is amazing with this system. The car runs on gas-gasoline. During the transition to gas, the pump turns off automatically so as not to run idle, and when gasoline is turned on, it also automatically starts pumping. freed from constantly being under the hood for manual pumping. return from the Solex carburetor to the tee in front of the filter.

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