VAZ 2107 driveshaft: how to remove, install, correctly assemble the driveshaft, instructions with photos and videos

Despite the fact that the VAZ 2107 has long been out of production, however, due to its ease of maintenance and unpretentiousness in repairs, it remains one of the popular cars among the population in its class. The fact that most cars are not new requires increased attention to their technical condition. When carrying out maintenance, it is also worth assessing the condition of the driveshaft.

In accordance with the instructions, lubrication of the splines of the driveshaft connection of the elastic coupling should be done every 10 thousand km.

The cardan shaft or cardan is one of the main parts of the VAZ 2107 car transmission, the main task of which is to transmit torque from the gearbox to the rear axle gearbox. Technically, the VAZ 2107 driveshaft consists of two components: a front driveshaft and an intermediate driveshaft, interconnected by a cross that allows them to rotate at a varying angle relative to each other.

Cardan VAZ-2107 - device, diagram, details

Cardan shafts are made of thin-walled steel pipe. The front shaft has splined ends at both ends, and the rear shaft has universal joint forks. The elastic coupling is designed to absorb vibrations and jerks in the driveline. It connects the gearbox and the front driveshaft through two flanges. Their alignment is ensured by a centering ring on the gearbox shaft and a centering sleeve in the propeller shaft flange. The intermediate support consists of a radial ball bearing mounted in a bracket inside a rubber insulating pad. The bracket is secured to the body using a cross member through vibration-isolating bushings. The cardan joint consists of two forks mounted on shafts, which are connected to each other by a cross. The hollow spikes of the crosspiece are fitted with needle bearings with sealing collars. The bearings are secured in the forks with retaining rings. Currently (since 1988), cardan shafts are equipped with hinges of increased durability. They are equipped with crosspieces with spikes of increased diameter, stamped needle bearing housings, radial-end type seals without a metal clip and a fork of increased thickness. Modern and previously produced crosspieces are interchangeable, but installing “new” crosspieces into the forks of “old” driveshafts is not recommended, since this reduces the overall rigidity of the joints.

Description of design The cardan transmission consists of front and rear cardan shafts, an intermediate elastic support, an elastic coupling, a movable spline joint and two cardan joints. The presence of two universal joints and a spline connection makes it possible to transmit torque from the gearbox to the main gear at an angle that constantly changes during suspension operation. Cardan shafts are made of thin-walled steel pipe. The front shaft has splined ends at both ends, and the rear shaft has universal joint forks. The elastic coupling is designed to absorb vibrations and jerks in the driveline. It connects the gearbox and the front driveshaft through two flanges. Their alignment is ensured by a centering ring on the gearbox shaft and a centering sleeve in the propeller shaft flange. The intermediate support consists of a radial ball bearing mounted in a bracket inside a rubber insulating pad. The bracket is secured to the body using a cross member through vibration-isolating bushings. The cardan joint consists of two forks mounted on shafts, which are connected to each other by a cross. The hollow spikes of the crosspiece are fitted with needle bearings with sealing collars. The bearings are secured in the forks with retaining rings. Currently (since 1988), cardan shafts are equipped with hinges of increased durability. They are equipped with crosspieces with spikes of increased diameter, stamped needle bearing housings, radial-end type seals without a metal clip and a fork of increased thickness. Modern and previously produced crosspieces are interchangeable, but installing “new” crosspieces into the forks of “old” driveshafts is not recommended, since this reduces the overall rigidity of the joints.

Question

Over time, vibration appeared, it starts at a speed of 60 km/h and stops after 120. I replaced the outboard, replaced the gearbox. Doesn't stop. I climbed in myself. I removed the cardan and inspected it; the holes on the mounting of the pendant to the body were not fully bored out, because of this, the pendant is attached with tension and therefore with an inclination. Bore the holes. The hanging sat well. The vibration is gone. Traveled 20,000 km. Appeared again. It was not the wheels that sinned. It seems to have been balanced, the vibration has not disappeared. I changed from winter to summer tires, still the same. What you didn’t do doesn’t disappear. There is a slight play in the left rear axle shaft. Maybe because of this? Or maybe the spline joint of the cardan is not lubricated?

Your writing is interesting and lifelike.

Your writing is interesting and lifelike. Still, in order to make a truly interesting blog, you need to not only report something, but also do it in an interesting way.

How to properly lubricate the cardan?

We'll tell you about proper lubrication of the driveshaft without removing parts from the car.

First, as usual, we put the VAZ 2107 on the inspection hole, tighten the handbrake, put the gearshift lever in the “neutral gear” position, manually remove dirt and dust from the cardan drive, then check how tight all the available bolts and nuts are and tighten what "dangling"

You can insert a screwdriver and wiggle it, this way you can determine the play in the hinge bearings. In this case, the part will have to be removed from the car, as described above, and the crosspiece replaced or the O-rings replaced.
In addition, we grasp the front shaft firmly with one hand and rotate (pump), inspecting the coupling: is there any angular play?
To lubricate the driveshaft splines, you need to take an 11 mm wrench, unscrew the plug on the coupling flange and take an oiler in which you can supply oil under pressure. Then, using a syringe, squeeze the grease (CV joint - 4, Fiol - 2u) into the splined joint until it “comes out” from under the oil seal, then put the plug in place.

These simple tips will allow you to keep the VAZ 2107 transmission in good condition for a long time, without having to repair the driveshaft.

Features of the mechanism

The driveshaft transmits the torque generated by the car's engine to the rear axle, causing the wheels to rotate. It is located under the bottom of the VAZ-2107 car, which is why you can find a raised floor in the cabin.

The cardan on the VAZ 2107 consists of two main parts, which are connected to each other using a cross. This design of the device is necessary because the rear suspension constantly “plays” when driving due to shock absorption. The device is a hollow tube, which is the “arm” connecting the engine to the wheels. Despite the simplicity of the product, the shaft, like other car parts, fails and requires repair or replacement.

Main cardan malfunctions

The main malfunction of the driveshaft is that elements such as the spider and the outboard bearing fail. It is these parts that are the most loaded. The crosspiece and bearing fail for a simple reason - lack of lubrication. Over time, it is necessary to periodically diagnose these elements with the obligatory addition of lubricants. In rare cases, a cardan malfunction may be associated with a defective crosspiece, which requires its replacement.

The malfunctions of the mechanism in question are as follows:

failure of crosspieces;
destruction of the outboard bearing;
violation of the configuration (imbalance) of the shaft;
breakage of flanges, splines and couplings, which happens under heavy loads;
excess moisture and dirt inside the crosspieces.

At the slightest sign of malfunction, it is necessary to diagnose the mechanism and eliminate all resulting damage. The malfunction can be identified by the following signs:

the appearance of a knocking sound when the clutch is engaged, which may indicate wear of the splines or damage to the elastic coupling;
the occurrence of a grinding noise when the car is moving indicates a lack of lubrication;
the appearance of vibration when the car is moving, which indicates a violation of the alignment of the product;
knocking noise during sudden acceleration or braking, which indicates wear of the crosspieces.

We will discuss how to replace the VAZ 2107 driveshaft in the next paragraph.

The process of removing and replacing the cardan

The mechanism is removed for the purpose of carrying out repair work or replacing it with a new product.

Often the driveshaft itself is an unpretentious device, but it is important to periodically check the condition of the bearing, splines and crosses. These are the weak points that need to be periodically looked at and monitored for their condition.

To avoid misalignment during disassembly, it is necessary to apply marks with chalk or a core, which will avoid incorrect assembly of the product.

Work on dismantling the cardan is carried out in the following order:

First, you need to secure the car by placing stops under the front wheels, and place the gearshift lever in the “neutral” position. Next, jack up the rear of the car, while suspending one of the drive wheels. We proceed to disconnect the device from the mount to the differential. To do this, you need to unscrew the 4 fastening nuts and then remove the bolts. After unscrewing the fastener, you can separate the product from the differential flange.

It remains to unscrew the two nuts securing the cross member on which the suspension bearing is mounted. After unscrewing, you can dismantle the cardan from the VAZ 2107. Using a wooden hammer, you need to knock out (if necessary) the shaft from the engagement of the splines with the elastic coupling. After the shaft is repaired or replaced, you can install it in place. The installation process is inversely proportional to removal

When installing the product, it is important to ensure that the shaft is positioned correctly.

What faults occur in this connection?

Of course, most often the most loaded elements fail: the universal joint and bearings. There are reasons for this: lack of necessary lubrication in the bearings and defects in the production of crosspieces. In the USSR, there was a terrible shortage of crosspieces: there is no crosspiece - the transmission is faulty - the car is stuck. Repairing the cardan shaft often cost a week's family budget, and replacing the crosspiece (or rather, the need for it) led many to despondency.

More rare transmission malfunctions of the VAZ 2107:

Damage and misconfiguration (hitting rocks when driving in the mountains);
Abundant amounts of dirt in parts and bearings;
Failure of flanges, splines and couplings under load.

For lubrication, maintenance, if a part needs to be replaced, first of all, you need to properly remove it from the car and put it back. Repair of the driveshaft is also possible only after removal.

Popular and useful repair instructions for VAZ 2107

Those who are seriously interested in the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2107 should familiarize themselves with the popular instructions that owners of this vehicle model most often refer to. These include replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch, replacing the VAZ 2107 master brake cylinder, replacing the VAZ 2107 generator and other procedures necessary during active vehicle operation in harsh road conditions.

In addition to them, drivers will find it useful to replace the VAZ 2107 pump, which will allow the cooling system to return to its former performance and eliminate the possibility of engine overheating. For those involved in an accident, replacing the wing of a VAZ 2107 will be useful - a procedure that even a novice driver who is aware of the algorithm of actions can cope with.

There are also a number of materials that site users found most useful. Thus, car owners believe that they will need information on why the VAZ 2107 heater does not heat well, how to adjust the ignition and how to repair a 5-speed gearbox.

In addition to video instructions, on the pages of the section you can also find a repair manual for the VAZ 2107, consisting of a photo and a text description. Photos of the process will be no less informative, which means that such a manual will be the best option for the car owner in comparison with factory information material.

Replacing the driveshaft crosspiece of a VAZ 2107

All repairs are carried out with your own hands quite simply; no pitfalls will be identified in the process. The first thing you need to do is get the rear of the car off the ground. Moreover, the larger your belly, the higher you need to raise it. Secondly, you will need some tool:

A set of keys (in particular, for “12”, “13”, “14”).
Screwdrivers.
Hammer.
Retaining ring remover.
Wooden spacers.

That's all, now you climb under the car and unscrew everything you see. Namely:

Suspension bearing with a key “13” from the body of a VAZ 2107.
Four nuts from the flange, using wrenches “12” and “13”. Sometimes it is needed for “14”, it all depends on what spare parts were used during the previous repair.

Then the cardan falls to the ground and needs to be knocked out of the gearbox. To do this, you can use a hammer and a wooden spacer. Ideally, use a wooden mallet or a bronze hammer to avoid damaging the driveshaft.

Then arm yourself with a ring puller and pull them out one by one. What to do next? The instruction manual advises using a special puller, but practice shows that a few sharp blows with a mallet on the edge of the VAZ 2101-2107 driveshaft are enough for the glasses to fly out. Before installing a new cross, be sure to clean the seats to ensure there is no dust or dirt.

First put it on the flange, and then on the cardan - this is the most optimal sequence. And I would also like to note: when replacing the VAZ 2107 driveshaft crosspieces, there is no need to install the retaining rings that come with the kit. The fact is that they can be several microns wider, and this will lead to destruction of the mechanism. Therefore, it is better to leave the old rings.

The driveshaft is removed from a VAZ 2107 car if it is damaged, when the balancing is disturbed as a result of vibration during movement, as well as to perform other repairs, for example, to disassemble the universal joint or replace the elastic coupling.

Repair work to remove the cardan transmission must be carried out in a pit or overpass. To perform the work you will need a standard set of tools. The sequence of your actions should look like this:

Having driven the car into the pit, engage neutral gear. Jack up the rear wheel so that it is suspended.
If the seven is injection, then it is necessary to remove the heat shield located above the catalytic converter. Using a 13mm socket wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing it to the car body studs and remove it by pulling it towards you and up.

Now you can start removing the driveshaft. Before removing the universal joint, it is necessary to apply marks using a file to the universal joint fork body and the rear axle gearbox flange. If you plan to replace the driveshaft with a new one, then the marks are not needed. We will need to take risks when installing it in place so as not to upset the balancing, since the driveshaft gradually becomes unbalanced during operation and if it is installed in a different position relative to its original place, then when driving at high speeds some vibration may appear in the lower part of the body car.
Using a thirteen-size open-end wrench, unscrew the self-locking nuts of the bolts securing the cardan to the rear axle gearbox flange. Using a mounting bracket, we keep the cardan from rotating. After unscrewing the bolts, take them out and hang the rear part of the cardan on a wire to any rear suspension rod. The nuts must be replaced with new ones during installation.

In the front part of the cardan, it is necessary to straighten the four tendrils of the oil seal race and move it inward along the shaft.
Using a thirteen-size socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the intermediate shaft support to the bracket and disengage the driveshaft from the elastic coupling and remove it from the car, pushing it towards the rear axle.

At this point, the repair work on removing the driveshaft of the VAZ 2107 is completed. Install in the reverse order of removal, aligning the marks on the hinge and the gearbox flange. Lubricate all spline joints.

Sources

https://carnovato.ru/zamena-podvesnogo-podshipnika-kardannogo-vala-i-krestoviny-na-vaz-2101-2107-svoimi-rukami/
https://vaz-remzona.ru/zamena-krestoviny-kardannogo-vala-vaz-2107/
https://remont-vaz2106.ru/kardannyj-val-vaz-2107

Removing the shaft from a VAZ 2107 car

Attention! Before separating the transmission parts relative to each other, you need to make marks with chalk so as not to rotate the position of the parts differently and not cause alignment problems!

We hang up any drive wheel using a jack;
We put the gear shift lever, or “stick”, in neutral, lock the “handbrake”;
Remove the safety bracket by unscrewing the nuts and washers;

Now we release the coupling from the gearbox flange by unscrewing 3 nuts;

We turn the cardan, take out all the bolts from the flange and coupling; to make work easier, you can carefully knock them out with a punch and a hammer.

Now you can disconnect the front end from the gearbox flange;

Now we unscrew the nuts of the rear half of the transmission from the differential flange (there are 4 of them);

Now you can separate the driveshaft and differential flange:
We unscrew the nuts securing the cross member and remove it;
And only now we remove the cardan from the VAZ 2107

That's it, the withdrawal is complete. The reverse installation is carried out in exactly the same way, you just need to make sure that the cardan coupling with its liners (2) fits into the grooves of the gearbox flange (1,3).

After installation, you need to check how the cardan rotates with one wheel hanging.

Lada 2107 › Logbook › Classic driveshaft on CV joints

Hello everyone! This topic of CV joints from the Niva to the classics has haunted me for a long time. Now the moment has arisen not to miss this chance to install a cardan on the CV joints. Why a chance? Because my outboard bearing was humming, surprisingly the crosspieces were more than normal, the rear there was not much play (but not fatal). The last time I changed the crosspieces and the suspension was last year in November. And then how the change was driven into the service by a hand-assed master and he changed it in the end and then redid it after repairing it, here is a record of what he did www.drive2.ru/ l/488394819794632724/

What was purchased: Rear cardan 2123 Hammer and Sickle Reducer flange 2101 Suspension bearing Cardan nuts M8 with nylon Cardan flange nut

What has already happened: The total number of universal joints is 3 pieces))) Where do you ask for so many? One of the original ones was still on the car to this day, and was repaired more than once. The second corporate one was purchased (about three years ago) because it was necessary to change the crosspieces and suspension. I was too lazy, so I went and bought it for 2000 rubles. When I installed it, vibration appeared, the seller refused to take it back, allegedly there were traces of installation, in response, I sent it to hell. The original one was restored. But the third cardan was bought not long ago (a month ago) in a used .it is in disassembly condition, and I drove it for 5 days, the bearing began to hum even more. In the end, I installed my own one, there was less noise there)))

I started the process of disassembling the cardan. I started with the corporate cardan, pulled out the central crosspiece, removed the fork. And I noticed that the outboard bearing is facing the other way))), that is, the retaining ring is in the gearbox, but should be towards the bridge (I don’t know what the difference is, let me know who knows), there are no dust deflectors 2 pieces. But it’s half the trouble when I unscrewed the nut, the thread on the cardan was licked off by the nut, how do you like this corporate cardan? I throw it away and start working on the second cardan, everything was the same as with the first cardan, the bearing was not right , but the dust deflectors are in place and the threads are intact, this is what I need! Has the assembly of the cardan really begun? Having taken a new outboard bearing, I checked the grease and it can be said that there is almost none of it; everything is clearly filled with grease now! By the way, just for fun, I checked the lubrication of two disassembled cardan shafts in the outboard ones, they generally worked dry. Normally, I bought a corporate one and a used one in disassembly))) Most likely, the cardan I rode on also had a dry bearing. That’s why it hummed so quickly.

I read the installation and assembly process from many people. So I used the nut from the original cardan nut, I just put washers under the nut because the head didn’t fit (I didn’t sharpen it much) and there was no place to tighten it, the washer fixed this problem. I installed it on the ground , the studs did not interfere with the installation. Cut Drill Cook there was nothing like that, everything went perfectly, both assembly and installation! I didn’t touch the balancing weights in the small cardan, as they were, I left them like that. Someone removes them, someone leaves them. I decided not touch.

Now the most interesting thing begins, the time has come to go check it out))) I was satisfied with the work done, I won it))) When starting off, there are no clicking noises, etc. There are also no extraneous noises while driving. Usually when switching gears, and when starting off, you feel a slight blow to the bridge, regardless of whether the crosspieces are in good order or not. It rolls easier this way. Now it feels like I don’t have a universal joint, I can’t hear it! Today I installed it, and I drove 72 km, I like everything!

How to diagnose wear on crosspieces

Replacing the crosspiece in a VAZ 2106 is carried out after diagnostics:

When, during rapid acceleration or braking of a car, when changing gears, a knocking sound from the cardan transmission or vibration of the axle is heard, all this indicates wear of the crosspiece and its bearings

There is an urgent need to replace the VAZ 2106 crosspiece, which has become unusable.

If you don’t pay attention to these signs in time, then the result will be destruction of the bearing and the cardan falling out directly onto the road. The axle gearbox and the underbody of your car can also be damaged.

Buy a “VAZ” crosspiece, do not forget to purchase spare retaining rings (if they are not included in the kit), because old rings, as a rule, become deformed or break.

Tool required for replacement

Replacing the driveshaft crosspiece of a VAZ 2106 requires the following tools:

Two open-end wrenches 13 and 12
Socket wrenches 27 and 13
Copper or aluminum extension
Hammer
Compression pliers with thin jaws to remove circlips
Two mandrels for pressing out the cardan cross bearings.
Universal puller
Ticks
Chisel
Large screwdriver

We remove the cardan

Replacing the VAZ 2106 crosspiece with your own hands is not possible without removing the cardan from the car. So:

We remove the cardan on a lift or inspection hole. Unhook the handbrake cable spring.
Using a chisel, we apply marks at the junction of the cardan and the gearbox flange. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nuts (there are four of them). Use a large screwdriver to secure the cardan shaft from rotating.
Remove the rear end of the cardan.

Use a chisel to mark the position of the cardan and flange of the rubber coupling

Then we bend the locking tendrils of the seal ring near the rubber coupling
We move the cage with the seal together towards the propeller shaft

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nuts and take out the safety bar
Supporting the cardan, unscrew the nuts using a 13mm wrench and remove the plate securing the outboard bearing from the studs. It is attached to the body using rubber washers.

We pull the cardan out of the slots inside the rubber coupling flange and take it out

It is first recommended to watch how to replace the crosspiece of a VAZ 2106 video.

Signs of malfunction of VAZ 2107 crosspieces

Malfunctions of crosspieces are usually associated with wear of the sealing collars and dirt getting inside the bearings, which, having abrasive properties, begins to destroy the metal. This manifests itself as follows.

at a speed of about 90 km/h, characteristic impacts from below are felt;
when the reverse gear is engaged, vibration appears;
When the driveshaft swings from side to side, play is detected.

It is much easier to identify a faulty crosspiece on a removed cardan. If the bearings are damaged, the hinge will rotate poorly in one of the planes, and sounds resembling crunching or rustling will appear.

Clicking noise when starting

The first sign of a faulty universal joint is a loud clicking sound when turning on first gear at the start of movement. When such sounds, reminiscent of a clinking pan, appear, it is recommended to rotate the parts of the cardan in different directions with your hands, while holding the hinges. If large play is detected, the crosspieces must be replaced. It is noteworthy that sometimes clicks can appear only during a sharp start from a standstill, and when the movement begins smoothly, they may not appear.

Vibration

Often, if the crosspieces are faulty, vibration occurs when reversing. Sometimes it does not disappear even after replacing the crosspieces, but begins to appear at average speed. Moreover, the vibration may become even stronger than before replacing the CC. Such situations are a consequence of non-compliance with the alignment of the cardan elements during its assembly.

Sometimes vibration persists even after work has been done correctly. The reason for this is usually the use of low-quality products when replacing CC. Experts advise tapping the cups on all sides with a metal tube before installing new crosses. This will allow the stuck circlips to move and the vibration will go away.

Replacement

Now you can proceed directly to replacing the crosspiece on the VAZ 2107. Repair work includes a mandatory preparatory stage, during which it is necessary to prepare spare parts and tools.

Spare parts

To ensure that the crosspiece is replaced efficiently and reliably, that is, after a short period of time you do not have to do the work again, buy high-quality parts.

Spare parts

Today there is a large volume of cheap Chinese spare parts on the market. Their quality leaves much to be desired. By purchasing such items, you will incur even greater financial losses. And that's why:

When replacing the driveshaft crosspiece on a VAZ 2107, you must simultaneously change the bearing. When purchasing, check how smooth its movement is;
Check the rubber for elasticity. The bearing must not have any obstructions when moving. Feeling that it is clinging, put such a part away and take another one;
Rubber must have the required level of elasticity. This is because when moving through it, vibrations are transmitted to the body. If the tires turn out to be hard, you will notice this in the behavior of the car and the roughness of the movement;
It is recommended to replace the old crosspiece with a new one using standard VAZ components. Just before purchasing, make sure that they are made with high quality and are not defective;
When purchasing crosspieces and bearings, at the same time buy new snap rings. Old elements cannot withstand long-term use, become deformed, and stop working properly. Trying to save money on something like this is a big mistake of many VAZ 2107 owners. Don’t repeat them.

Tools

If you often do car repairs and maintenance on your own, then the tool necessary to replace the crosspiece will definitely be found in your garage:

Open-end wrenches for 12 and 13;
Set of socket wrenches. The most important ones are on 13 and 27;
Hammer with a handle made of aluminum or copper;
Pliers (needed when removing circlips);
Puller and flange.

Installation of VAZ crosspiece

2101-2202110 Cuff 2101-2202115 Cuff holder 21211-2201015-01 Rear propeller shaft 21211-2201023 Flange fork for propeller shaft 21211-2201047 Sliding fork for propeller shaft 21211-2202025 Rolling bearing (designation GPZ - SN192819НРС10) without cross 21211-2202029 Grease nipple 21211-2202034 Grease nipple 21211-2202043 Retaining ring 1.45 mm 21211-2202044 Retaining ring 1.48 mm 21211-2202045 Retaining ring 1.52 mm 21211-2202046 Retaining ring 1.56 mm 21211-2202047 Retaining ring 1.60 mm 21211-2202048 Retaining ring 1.64 mm 21211-2202049 Retaining ring 1.67 mm 21211-2202050 Retaining ring 1.40 mm 21211-2203015-01 Front propeller shaft

Cardan joint assembly

At this stage, the disassembly of the driveshaft ends. Now we need to move on to the next process - assembling the universal joint. Before starting assembly, it is recommended to thoroughly clean the hinge forks from dust and dirt. In addition, in the process it is necessary to be able to provide the necessary axial clearance of the cross, which in theory should be equal to 0.01 or 0.004 mm. Needless to say, too much clearance can disrupt the correct balancing of the transmission. The required gap of 0.01 mm will ensure the appropriate installation of the retaining rings, which will not play. As for spare parts, retaining rings with a thickness of 1.50 to 1.60 mm are mounted here. Our video clearly shows how the assembly is carried out, although everything happens on the model. It is important to remember that the crosspiece and bearings, or rather a set of them, must be changed at the same time. In addition, liquid oil or grease should not be used to lubricate the cardans. There is a special oil for joints, such as shown in the photo below:

Hinge lubrication oil

take new bearings and crosspieces;
we make sure that they are clean and generously cover them with CV joint-4 or Fiol-2U lubricant;
We cover the eye holes with a thin layer of joint grease to protect the part from corrosion;
we take the O-rings and put the crosspieces on the studs (just make sure that they point with their forked edge towards the bearing);
we install plastic end washers into the holes of the studs with our own hands;
take a new crosspiece and place it between the fork lugs.

Let's move on, as the instructions describe:

take a hammer and begin to press the bearing into the fork (we do this a little deeper than the groove so that the retaining ring seats correctly);
press in the second bearing by turning the cardan fork over;
do not forget to install retaining rings;
We do the same with the second fork;
tap the eyes of both forks so that the bearings are pressed well against the retaining rings (during this operation, gaps appear that are necessary for the normal operation of the connections).

Attention: After the hinge is assembled, it will need to be checked to make sure it swings easily. In addition, there should be no noticeable axial play in both forks, which indicates that the circlips are of the wrong size.

This step-by-step instruction will help not only novice motorists gain the necessary knowledge, but will also become a good assistant for experienced drivers and even specialists. In addition, it will help you save a lot of money, because the price of a new driveshaft is very high.

Suspension bearing for propeller shaft VAZ 2107

The suspension bearing (or idler bearing) is designed to ensure uniform rotation of the driveshaft while driving. In addition, it is an additional point for attaching the cardan and is included in the design of the intermediate (suspended) support. In fact, it itself is a support, since it comes complete with a bracket, with which it is attached to the bottom of the car through a transverse bracket.

The bearing design is based on the outer and inner races and seven steel balls

Outboard bearing location

The bearing is installed in front of the spider at the end of the front of the driveshaft. It can be seen from the inspection hole in the axial recess of the bottom behind the exhaust pipe at its junction.

The VAZ 2107 suspension bearing is located in front of the crosspiece on the front of the driveshaft

Hanging bearing design

The hanger bearing is an ordinary closed type ball bearing. It consists of an inner and outer race and seven steel balls. For mounting on the bearing housing there is a steel bracket with holes for bolts.

The suspended bearing is equipped with a special bracket for ease of fastening

Diagnosis of outboard bearing faults

The causes of outboard bearing failure are usually wear or mechanical damage. The service life of the bearing is about 150 thousand km. However, exposure to moisture, dirt, as well as stress caused by poor road conditions can significantly reduce it.

Signs of bearing wear are:

slight vibration;
hum emanating from the place where the cardan is “suspension”;
shaft play.

It is quite difficult to accurately diagnose bearing failure; this will require dismantling the driveshaft.

Outboard bearing selection criteria

Suspension bearings for the VAZ 2107 in Russia are produced under catalog numbers 2101–2202080 and 2105–2202078. The requirements of GOST 6–180605 apply to them. Imported analogues must comply with the requirements of ISO 62305.2RS. If there are no such markings on the packaging of a new part, it is most likely a fake, and it is better not to purchase it. The average retail price of a VAZ 2107 suspension bearing is 450–500 rubles. When choosing a manufacturer, it is better to give preference to the Vologda Bearing Plant. Bearings produced at VPP are considered to be of the highest quality and most durable.

Table: technical characteristics of the VAZ 2107 suspension bearing

Characteristics	Indicators
steel grade	ШХ 15
Outer diameter, mm	62
Internal diameter, mm	25
Height, mm	24
Rated rotation load, rpm	7500
Load capacity static/dynamic, kN	11,4/22,5
Ball diameter, mm	11,5
Weight, g	325

Prices for repair of cardan shafts LADA 2107

Name of works	Price
Removing/installing the propeller shaft	from 400 rub.
Diagnostics and defect detection of a removed propeller shaft	from 300 rub.
Replacing the cross	from 250 rub.
Replacing the outboard bearing	from 400 rub.
Restoring the seat for the outboard bearing	from 800 rub
Replacing the spline connection	from 700 rub.
Repairing a stuck spline joint	from 1000 rub.
Replacing the driveshaft CV joint	from 800 rub
Replacing the welded fork	from 500 rub
Replacing the propeller shaft pipe	from 800 rub
Replacing the propeller shaft flange	from 300 rub.
Flange restoration (surfacing, boring)	from 500 rub
Editing the cardan shaft with a hydraulic press	from 800 rub
Technological washing	from 300 rub.
Drive shaft lubrication	from 500 rub
Cleaning the spline	from 500 rub
Painting the driveshaft	from 100 rub
Balancing the driveshaft	from 600 rub
Custom-made driveshaft manufacturing	from 4,000 rub.

How to Correctly Install a Cardan on a VAZ 2107

Cardan transmission refers to the connection of 2 shafts through a spider, which is capable of transmitting torque from the 1st shaft to the 2nd. This transmission is necessary when the longitudinal axis of the two shafts does not lie on the same straight line, i.e. the angle differs from 180°.

In rear-wheel drive vehicles, which includes the entire classic VAZ family, the PTO transmits all the torque turning the engine to the rear drive wheels. In particular, since the driveshaft is located under the bottom of the car, the floor in the cabin rises in the center. Front-wheel drive cars do not have this interior height.

Changing the angle didn't work at all because it's hard for the driveshaft to sit under the bottom without being overpowered. Somehow the engineers would manage. The fact is that the height of the rear suspension, and therefore the differential that receives the torque, is constantly “dancing” thanks to the elastic suspension.

It is clear that the gearbox is the “grasshopper” in the VAZ 2107, and the cross member connecting the shafts is the weak point. Now let's talk specifically about this simple but very important unit. Repairing a drive shaft is delicate, despite its apparent simplicity. Replacing parts requires delicate measurements.

The parts capable of changing the angle and length of the transmission are the coupling (5), as well as the rigid connections (9.7) and elasticity (3). This is called clutch. The role of the coupling is that it reduces joint noise and transmits angle impulse. Repair of the screw shaft is required if the clutch material cracks and breaks. Simply put, a connection change is required.
The universal joint consists of 6 rubber parts (30) with metal spacers (31) between them. These parts are tightly connected into a single unit, so in case of failure, the most correct solution is to replace the clutch.
The coupling must be located between the flanges (4.2). They are screwed to this 35.
Intermediate support (6), which is used to reduce vibrations and various impacts.
The front shaft of the VAZ 2107 (5) is a pipe on which welding grooves are installed. In front of us is the tip (40). It is equipped with one of the clutch flanges, and the rear end is wound on the support bearing (6). The bearing itself is perfectly sealed with mud seals. Drive shaft repair is required if the studs are worn.
The rubber pad (12) in which the bearing is located perfectly dampens vibration. This may move the windshield slightly.
The intermediate screw support is mounted on a bracket (15).
The safety bracket (27), which prevents the shaft from falling out if the clutch breaks, is fundamental. If this bracket was not available, cars would spill at full speed and incidents like this would have happened before. In such a case, repairing the drive shaft is impractical and needs to be replaced.
The difference between the rear shaft (8) and the front “neighbor” is that there is a loop fork at its ends.
In fact, the hinge is the main element of the transmission, it consists of a pair of forks (23), one spider (22) and a separate figure on top, needle bearings (20). of which 4, rings (19). ) and seals (21). The bearings are pressed with a fairly large force of about 800 kg into the holes for the fork. They are not detachable and require replacement if faulty.
For the transverse part there is a corresponding gap of 0.1 to 0.4 mm. Only within such limits is the cross correctly centered. For proper alignment, there are rings in 5 sizes and 5 different colors. In most cases, repairing the drive shaft involves adjusting these gaps; the rings change.

Cardan malfunctions

The driveshaft of the VAZ 2107 wears out during operation under the influence of constant loads. The crosspiece is subject to the most wear. As a result, the cardan loses its original characteristics, vibration, knocking, etc. appear.

Vibration

Sometimes while driving a VAZ 2107, the body begins to vibrate. The reason for this usually lies in the driveline. This may be due to the installation of an initially poor quality shaft or incorrect assembly of the unit. Vibration can also appear due to mechanical impacts on the cardan when hitting obstacles or during an accident. This problem can also be a consequence of improper hardening of the metal.

There are many reasons leading to an imbalance in the cardan drive. Vibration may occur under heavy loads. In addition, the VAZ 2107 cardan can become deformed even if the vehicle is used infrequently. This will also lead to vibration. In such situations, balancing or replacing the unit is required, and the problem must be corrected immediately. Otherwise, vibration of the cardan can lead to destruction of the crosspieces and rear axle gearbox, and the cost of repairs will increase many times over.

VAZ transmission

The transmission of torque from the gearbox to the final drive is carried out by a cardan drive, which makes it possible to transmit torque at a constantly changing angle (due to the elastic suspension of the rear axle).

The cardan transmission consists of front 14 and rear 21 cardan shafts, an intermediate support 17, an elastic coupling 23 and two cardan joints. The rear hinge is connected through fork 22 to the flange of the main gear drive gear.

Front driveshaft. Made from thin-walled steel pipe with splined ends welded to both ends. On the splines of the front tip there is a flange 7, which is connected through a rubber elastic coupling to the flange 2 of the secondary shaft 10 of the gearbox with bolts 6. The alignment of the connected shafts is ensured by the centering ring 15, pressed onto the end of the secondary shaft of the gearbox, and the centering sleeve 4, pressed into the flange 7 Ring 15 is fixed on the shaft with a retaining ring 16.

The spline joint is lubricated through a hole closed by plug 18. The lubricant is held by a rubber seal 9, which is placed in a steel cage 8, and on the other side by a seal 13, put on a nut 12. The rear splined tip of the shaft 14 rests on the ball bearing 33 of the intermediate support. The fork 28 of the intermediate cardan joint is secured to the splines of the tip with a nut 34.

Rear driveshaft. It is made of a thin-walled pipe, at the ends of which universal joint forks are welded.

Intermediate support. Absorbs vibrations from the driveshaft. It consists of a bracket secured to the crossbar with 26 bolts and nuts. The cross member, in turn, is secured with nuts on bolts welded to the body. Steel spacer bushings 20 and rubber insulating bushings 19, pressed with washers, are installed on the crossmember mounting bolts. The bracket contains a rubber cushion, which is vulcanized to the surfaces of the bracket and bearing housing.

The bearing housing contains a radial ball bearing 33 with seals, which is fixed in the housing with a retaining ring 27. Dust deflectors 32, installed on both sides of the bearing, protect the bearing from dirt.

Litol-24 lubricant is placed into the bearing during assembly and is not replenished during operation.

Elastic coupling. Absorbs noise and vibration of the driveline. It is made of six rubber elements 3, between which there are metal liners 5 with holes for bolts 1 and 6. The liners have six projections, three of which go into the grooves of the flange of the secondary shaft of the gearbox, and the rest into the grooves of the flange of the elastic coupling. This ensures that the flexible coupling is centered on the flanges.

Cardan joint. It consists of two forks 28 and 36 attached to the shafts and a cross 35, which connects the forks to each other. The hollow tires of the crosspiece are fitted with housings of needle bearings 30. The bearing of the crosspiece is sealed with an oil seal located in a metal cage 31. The assembled needle bearings are fixed in the holes of the forks with retaining rings 29, which are divided into five sizes according to thickness. Each ring size corresponds to a specific color: 1.62 - yellow; 1.59 - black; 1.56 - blue; 1.53 - dark brown; 1.50 - unpainted. By selecting a retaining ring of one thickness or another, the axial clearance of the crosspiece is ensured in the range of 0.01-0.04 mm.

Since 1988, a cardan transmission with joints of increased durability has been installed on parts of cars, and subsequently on all cars. It is externally distinguished by the increased thickness of the forks where the needle bearings are installed, the absence of metal clips for the crosspiece oil seals, and a sharper transition of the front driveshaft pipe into the splined tip (approximately at an angle of 90°). U-joints have improved needle bearing sealing. This is achieved by using oil seals 2 radial mechanical seals. The needle bearing housings are stamped from sheet steel, as opposed to turned from bar steel in the previously used cardan drive.

New and previously produced cardan joint crosspieces are interchangeable. But it is undesirable to install new crosspieces (VAZ-2105) in the forks of old driveshafts (VAZ 2103-06), since in these forks the rigidity of the stamped needle bearing housings decreases.

Due to changes in the size of the universal joint forks, the technology for disassembling and assembling new universal joints has been changed. Therefore, the text describes the technology for repairing both old and new hinges.

Source

Which suspension bearing and crosspiece should I install on the VAZ Classic?

The original number of the outboard bearing is 2101-2202080, the average price is 330 rubles.

Analogues:

SEVI 3103 — 426 rub.
Trialli RM0133 — 471 rub.
Master-sport 2101-2202080-ST-PCS-MS — 506 rub.

The original number of the cross is 2101-2202025, the average price is 260 rubles.

Analogues:

Trialli CC506 — 212 rub.
Toyo TU-51L — 350 rub.
Zommer 21012202025 — 210 rub.

The parts needed for replacement are the bearing, spider and snap rings.

The set of tools is as follows: open-end wrenches for 12 and 13, socket wrenches for 13 and 27, pliers for removing retaining rings, a puller and an elastic coupling flange for replacing the outboard bearing, as well as a hammer and an adapter made of aluminum or copper.

Let's move on to removing the driveshaft from the car. Unscrew the nuts securing the propeller shaft to the rear axle shank.

First, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the suspension bearing to the transverse support.

After the cardan has been removed, not all of its parts need to be marked, so that in the future it can be assembled according to the applied marks in order to avoid its beating and vibration.

We change the cross. Using pliers, remove all retaining rings.

The cardan shaft must be installed in such a way that the crosspiece is suspended. Using a hammer and a mandrel, knock out the cup of the cross. A puller for cardan shaft crosspieces will allow you to do this faster and safer.

We unfold the cardan and take out the cup.

We repeat the same with the remaining cups of the cross, after which the eyes of the propeller shaft are cleaned of dirt and rust, as are the grooves for the retaining rings.

Remove two cups from opposite sides of the crosspiece and tuck the crosspiece into the eyes. Carefully, so as not to scatter the needles from the cup, move it to one side and put the cup on.

Using a soft metal adapter, we seat the cup until a groove for the retaining ring appears. Having installed the retaining ring, turn the cardan over. Carefully move the cross to meet the cup and put it on, in the same way we seat it until a groove appears. We install the retaining ring. The second part will be a little more difficult to assemble. The crosspiece has been replaced.

We are replacing the driveshaft outboard bearing. After removing the crosspiece, insert the splined end of the cardan into the flange of the elastic coupling.

From the other end, using a 27mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the universal joint fork to the front shaft.

Use a puller to tighten the hinge fork.

after which we remove the outboard bearing from the shaft, for which you can use a puller after cutting off the outer ring of the outboard bearing. Or just try to knock him off the shaft. That's all, assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Front suspension design of the VAZ 2107

The time-tested double wishbone suspension appeared much earlier than the McPherson swing plug. The double wishbone is objectively better than the racks in terms of geometry and controllability, stability and endurance. But it’s not for nothing that we started with the market. MacPherson is much cheaper. It is three times cheaper to produce the most profitable double wishbone suspension. That's why they put it on the front of very inexpensive cars. At the rear, MacPherson can be found in a Mercedes, Cadillac, or BMW - this is the number one suspension for expensive sevens. But it's not that.

Structurally, the double wishbone suspension holds the car much better when turning, has better control and is more stable in terms of directional stability. This happens due to a larger number of attachment points for the moving part of the suspension, if you don’t go into details. And the VAZ 2107 is an excellent example of how a strong and unpretentious design lasted on the assembly line for almost 50 years without any problems. This scheme is still used today and will continue to be used for a long time. Although the weak point in it is the ball joint.

Signs and causes of failure of the VAZ 2107 driveline

Most often, the main symptoms of failure of the cardan and key components are instability and swaying of the cardan during rotation, accompanied by excessive vibrations of the body. In turn, a breakdown can be signaled by impacts when starting off or changing gears.

To determine the causes of the breakdown, we place the car on an inspection hole or overpass, wash and clean the driveshafts from dirt. We check for the presence of all kinds of defects in the joints of the hinges, check for the smoothness and ease of turning of the cardan forks, as well as for the presence or absence of radial and axial play of the joints. In most cases, the spider and/or bearing in the cardan device fails.

Often the problem is solved after replacing the bearing or spider. It’s another matter when, after going out into nature or while driving over rough terrain, there is a blow to the cardan, as a result, if deformations or damage are found on one of the shafts, the part must be replaced as an assembly.