Why the VAZ 2105 battery is not charging: reasons, diagnostics, troubleshooting

If the VAZ 2105 discharges , then one of three elements may be “to blame”: the generator, the voltage regulator, and the connections between them. Determining “who is to blame” can be very simple, even without additional devices.

In today’s article we will look at the reasons and ways to solve the problem of rapid discharge and lack of battery charge on a VAZ 2105 car.

Theory “on fingers”: how everything works

On the VAZ 2107, devices can receive power from 2 sources.
The first is the battery, the second is the generator. The battery supplies energy when the engine is turned off. It has a certain charge, consumed as needed. The generator produces electricity, but only if the rotor is spinning. That is, with the engine running. Battery operation diagram: 1. Battery, 2. Negative diode, 3. Additional diode, 4. Generator, 5. Positive diode, 6. Stator winding, 7. Regulator, 8. Rotor winding, 9. Capacitor, 10. Mounting block, 11. Control lamp, 12. Voltmeter, 13. Ignition relay, 14. Lock.

The battery charge is used to start the engine. When the engine starts running, the battery energy is not consumed: the generator supplies all devices with it. A charge is also supplied to it to restore wasted energy. But if the battery is not charging, its own energy will be enough for a limited number of starts. The battery will then be completely discharged. And the car owner will have to solve the problem of how to start a VAZ 2107 if the battery is dead. After all, not everyone has “crocodiles” in their trunk, and not everyone will agree to share electricity with their battery.

Let's summarize:

As you can see, there are many reasons why the battery does not have charge. At the same time, a number of problems when the battery does not charge are common to different cars (for example, a VAZ 2107 is not charging or the battery of a foreign car is not charging). Moreover, some of them can be easily detected and eliminated with your own hands. The main thing is to determine why the battery is not charging, after which appropriate measures are taken.

Finally, we note that even ordinary car enthusiasts usually do not have problems with cleaning the terminals and restoring the integrity of wires and contacts. If the problem is with the generator, if you do not have the skills to repair it, it is only recommended to dismantle it yourself and then transfer the generator to a specialized service for repair. This will allow you to avoid common mistakes that are made when repairing a generator with your own hands, and also obtain a guarantee for the repaired device.

Useful tips

Recommendations that will be useful during operation and maintenance of the battery to extend its operating time:

• test the battery from time to time and recharge it from the mains as often as possible (at least once a quarter);
• Make sure that the generator, wires, and car voltage regulation functions are in good condition to ensure the battery is properly charged while traveling;
• measure current leakage;
• measure the density of the electrolyte substance after full charging, compare the numbers from the table above, correct the situation if necessary;
• Keep your car battery clean to minimize leakage current.

Do not short-circuit the output terminals of a car battery, as the consequences in this case will be disastrous.

Types of relay regulators

All regulators that were used on VAZ cars at different times can be of only two types:

1. External regulator.
2. Three-level internal regulator.

Starting with the 2105 and 2107, the factory installed only internal relays on the alternator. External ones were used on older models and they were removed from the generator, since they were not particularly compact. On these machines, the relay was installed under the hood on the mudguard on the left.

If there was a need to replace the external regulator, then this was done easily and simply - it was in an accessible place, attached directly to the body with self-tapping screws, and was simply removed. The main thing that needed to be taken into account when replacing it was the correspondence of the terminals to pins 67 and 15. It was enough to simply check the correct connection of the new relay using the diagram, start the engine and take the measurement again.

What to do if the battery on a VAZ 2107 (injector) does not charge?

There are two energy sources in a car. Battery and generator. Moreover, the generator is the main one, since it is able to charge the battery while driving. In the most extreme, desperate cases, battery energy can be used. According to various estimates, in the most optimistic case, you can drive about 100 km on a flat road on a battery. In this case, the headlights should not be turned on, the heater should not be turned off, and, preferably, the ambient temperature should be low and the speed should be constant so that the radiator fan does not turn on. And the battery will be fully charged. Only in this case all the energy will go into the “spark”.

If the VAZ 2107 engine (injector) is running and there is no battery charge, there may be many reasons.

Let's start with the generator. The VAZ 2107 (carburetor) has an alternating current generator (model 372.3701), and an alternating current rectifier is built into the design. This is a synchronous three-phase motor.

The reasons why the battery is not charging can be common, regardless of whether you have a carburetor or an injector. Let's consider the reasons when the generator is to blame, that is, there is no voltage at its terminals. This can happen because the rectifier bridges (diode), the winding and many other reasons have burned out.

Attention! Before claiming that charging has disappeared specifically in the VAZ 2107 generator, check:

• If there is incoming voltage at the generator, this does not yet prove that it is the generator that is damaged and there is no outgoing current. After all, diodes supply current to the excitation winding of the generator. In this case, the battery charge lamp will light up on the dashboard.
• It is also worth measuring the voltage in the network with a tester. If it is below 12 V, then most likely there is a short circuit somewhere, and in this case the wiring may heat up intensely.
• You should check the generator belt, or rather, its tension. If it is loosely tensioned, then instead of driving the generator rotor, the belt slides along it itself, since there is no contact.
• The generator charging relay has failed. We need to talk about this separately.

The charging relay on the VAZ 2107 (injector) is located in the same housing with the brush mechanism, and its task is to stabilize the output voltage. Several years ago there were relays that were stamped into a printed circuit board and were located under the instrument panel and were non-separable. In the figure, the relay is indicated by an arrow. In everyday life, due to its characteristic shape, it is called a “tablet”.

Now, with the development of microelectronics, the printed circuit board is successfully replaced by a semiconductor relay. The sizes have become smaller, and there are no problems with installation.

Reasons for the battery not charging

To start the engine and proper operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2105, it is necessary to have DC voltage in the on-board network. When the engine is not started, the battery maintains the proper voltage. After the engine starts, the car's generator charges the battery and maintains the on-board voltage at 13.6-14.2 V.

Checking the battery charge using a voltmeter

Regardless of engine speed, the output voltage at the generator remains constant. A relay-regulator is responsible for this, which changes the voltage of the generator excitation circuit. If the voltage rises above the permissible level, the winding current decreases, reducing the output voltage. And vice versa.

If the VAZ 2107 has lost charging, the reasons may be as follows:

• Generator malfunction;
• break or poor contact in the excitation network or generator output voltage;
• broken generator belt.

Restoring normal operation of the generator should begin by determining the reason for the lack of battery charge.

VAZ 2105 generator malfunction

Experts suggest that on a VAZ-2107 with an injector, the standard generator is 5142.3771 (eight). It has one very important feature: it produces more current - not 55A per hour, like other generators, but about 80-90 A. This is due to the properties of the injector, which requires more electricity (but also has a higher power density).

Car battery current leakage

Experts advise checking the generator for malfunctions in the following order:

• inspect the diodes that supply electricity to the excitation winding of the generator (if they are burned out, they should be replaced with new ones);
• use a tester to measure the voltage level in the current-carrying circuit (if its value is less than 12 V, then there may be a short circuit, which means the wiring is overheating).

Break or poor contact in the excitation network or generator output voltage;

Often, symptoms that indicate characteristics of a faulty generator can also appear as a result of completely different problems. As an example, poor contact in the fuse socket of the generator field winding circuit will indicate a generator malfunction. The same suspicion may arise due to burnt contacts in the ignition switch housing. Also, the constant lighting of the generator malfunction indicator lamp can be caused by a breakdown of the relay; the blinking of this switching lamp may indicate a generator malfunction.

Broken alternator belt

As a rule, the generator belt breaks due to its wear. While working, it is under a fairly decent load, and although modern belts are made of very durable materials, over time the following appear:

• abrasions;
• cracks;
• teeth wear off;
• the edges are fraying.

If you find at least one of these signs, then do not delay replacing it; the consequences will not take long to arrive.
A characteristic whistle can indicate that something is not right with the drive. This usually happens in wet weather. It happens that it disappears while driving, but sometimes it doesn’t. This occurs due to the weakening of the belt tension. Sometimes it is enough to use tension mechanisms to tighten the belt more, but, as a rule, it needs to be replaced. You can replace the drive yourself - this is not a difficult job, or you can contact a service station. It's up to you, but he should be fine. If the alternator belt breaks, don’t worry. This is a non-critical failure. It’s just that now, when you start driving, the battery will stop charging, and the systems will begin to intensively consume battery energy.

How to determine the charge level?

Primary control of the charge level on the VAZ 2107 is carried out by instruments on the panel: a control lamp and a voltmeter. If the charge is normal, the indicator arrow will be in the green area, and the control lamp should go out when the engine is running.

To more accurately check the voltage level, you need a voltmeter. As mentioned earlier, the correct charge is 13.6 - 14.1 volts.

You can purchase a special automotive electronic voltmeter or one combined with a watch. Installed both instead of the standard clock and on the dashboard.

Preparing to Troubleshoot

If a problem is detected, we begin diagnostics. First, let's prepare the tools.

• Multimeter (voltmeter);
• Emery cloth or needle file;
• Knife;
• Pliers;
• 12-volt indicator lamp (control).

5.2.2 Battery does not charge

A car has two power sources - a battery and a generator. The battery is used to start the engine and to supply 12 V electric current to the starter and other consumers when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, the main source of current - the generator - provides electric current to all consumers, including the ignition system, and charges the battery.

If the red battery charging lamp is on on the dashboard, it means that current is not flowing from the generator to the on-board network and the battery’s energy reserves are being consumed. This supply is limited and depends on capacity. If the battery is fully charged, you can drive to the garage without a generator, but it is better to try to fix the problem on the spot.

1.

Check if the alternator drive belt is broken.

If the belt is intact, check its tension. Press the top of the belt with your thumb and see how much it bends. Normal tension is ensured when the belt deflects 10–15 mm.

Is the belt tension normal?

3.

Check whether the corresponding fuse has blown.
The location of the fuses and their ratings are indicated in this manual ( see subsection “Electrical equipment malfunctions” ), in the vehicle repair manual, in a separate electrical diagram, on the cover of the mounting block and on the fuses themselves.
4.

Replace the fuse.

Warning

Do not install fuses designed for a higher rated current: this can lead to damage to electrical equipment and even a fire.

Start the engine and check if the battery charging lamp goes out.

Has the charging light gone out?

6.

Check the wire going from the generator to the positive terminal of the battery. Two wires are connected to it: the thicker one connects the battery to the starter, the thin one connects to the generator. The wire may be broken, broken inside the insulation, or have oxidized or unreliable contacts. Correct the problem and start the engine.

8.

If, after taking the measures, the charging lamp continues to light up while the engine is running, then the possible cause of the malfunction lies in the generator itself. There may be several reasons, and to eliminate them it is better to use the help of a specialist, and you just have to hope that the energy reserve in the battery is enough to get to the car service center.

Experienced car enthusiasts can be recommended to check the generator voltage regulator.

The operation of the voltage regulator is to continuously automatically change the generator excitation current so that the generator voltage is maintained within specified limits when the generator speed and load changes.

Check on the car

To check, you must have a DC voltmeter with a scale of up to 15–30 V, accuracy class no worse than 1.0.

After 15 minutes of engine operation at medium speed with the headlights on, measure the voltage between terminal “30” and the generator ground. The voltage should be between 13.6–14.6 V.

If there is a systematic undercharging or overcharging of the battery and the regulated voltage does not fall within the specified limits, the voltage regulator must be replaced.

Checking the removed regulator

a) diagram for checking the exhaust voltage regulator before 1996. b) diagram for checking the exhaust voltage regulator after 1996.

The regulator (item 3), removed from the generator, is checked according to the diagram shown. It is better to check the regulator, which was used before 1996, together with the brush holder, since in this case you can immediately detect breaks in the brush leads and poor contact between the terminals of the voltage regulator and the brush holder.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE GENERATOR

The VAZ 2114 generator should be checked every six months, even if the device itself is operating in normal mode.

The first signs of a malfunction, upon detection of which it is necessary to check the generator on the VAZ 2114:

• The battery light on the instrument panel glows excessively brightly even when the engine is running, this indicates that the battery is overcharged;
• The battery light does not light up after the ignition is activated, the turn signals, wipers and similar devices do not turn on - the battery is not charged because the generator is not working;
• The generator is very noisy

Now let's figure out how to check the generator. To do this, we need a multimeter; you can purchase it at any auto store for 400-600 rubles. The check is performed according to the following algorithm (the method can be used on the VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115):

1. Turn on the ignition. We make sure that all the dashboard lights are on;
2. Let's start the fourteenth. The battery light on the dashboard, if the device is working properly, should go out;
3. Warm up the engine to operating temperature (90 °C). Now you need to create the maximum load on the car’s electrical network, for this you will need to turn on all the devices that consume electricity - the radio, high beams, stove, cigarette lighter, heated glass;
4. Set the multimeter to voltmeter mode. Here we need an assistant who will sit in the driver’s seat and maintain engine speed at 3200-3500 rpm;
5. We connect the multimeter probes to the battery. During the heaviest load on the on-board electrical network, the generator must produce a voltage of at least thirteen volts. If the multimeter shows a reading less than the required one, it means that due to a malfunction, the generator on the VAZ 2114 produces low voltage;
6. Next, turn off all energy consumers and check the electrical appliance at minimum load. We do the same thing - we take measurements when the engine is running at 3200-3500 rpm. Now the multimeter should show at least 14.7 Volts.

Checking with a multimeter

Knowing how many volts the generator on the VAZ 2114 should produce, after detecting inconsistencies, it is necessary to begin troubleshooting and, if necessary, repair or replace the device.

Generator faults

Unfortunately, mechanisms have not yet been invented that would not fail under the influence of time and constant loads. The VAZ 2107 generator is designed for many years of operation, but in some cases this is hampered by minor breakdowns and malfunctions of its components.

You can identify problems with the generator without the help of service station specialists: you just need to carefully monitor all the changes that occur with the car while driving.

The charging indicator light on the instrument panel came on

In the interior of the VAZ 2107, there is a terminal for several signaling devices on the dashboard. One of them is the battery charging indicator light. If it suddenly lights up red, it means there is not enough charge in the battery or there is a problem with the generator. But the alarm does not always indicate a problem with the generator itself; most often the lamp goes off for other reasons:

• slipping of the generator belt drive - you will need to stop the machine and adjust the degree of belt tension;
• there is damage in the warning lamp relay, so it does not work correctly - it is recommended to “ring” the relay in the mounting block and, if necessary, replace it;
• breakage of contacts in the excitation winding is a more serious damage that requires removing the generator from the car, disassembling it and searching for a break;
• severe wear of the brushes in the brush holder - they will need to be replaced, which is quite simple;
• short circuit in the rectifier (most likely, one of the silicon diodes has burned out) - it is recommended to disassemble the generator, test the diodes and replace the failed element.

The driver will immediately notice the signal, as the lamp begins to glow bright red on the instrument panel

The battery is not charging

VAZ 2107 drivers often encounter this problem: the generator seems to be working properly, but there is no power to the battery. The problem may lie in the following malfunctions:

• the alternator belt has stretched - you need to check the degree of its tension or replace it with a new one;
• loosening the fastening of the wire tips - just tighten all the fastening connections and thoroughly clean the contacts and connectors;
• malfunction of the battery itself;
• Damage in the wiring - it is recommended to ring all the wires between the battery and the generator and replace the damaged areas.

If there is no charging, the problem may lie in both the generator and the battery.

The battery is boiling over

Battery boiling over is a sign that the battery does not have long life left. After this, the battery will not be able to function fully, so it will have to be replaced soon. However, so that the replacement does not lead to the same sad consequences, it is necessary to find the cause of the boiling, which may be:

• contamination of the contact between the ground and the housing of the generator regulator - cleaning of the contact is necessary;
• damage to the voltage regulator board itself - replacement of the board is recommended;
• defective battery - if the battery began to boil away immediately after replacement.

It is better not to use the battery after boiling, as its resource is very limited.

When driving there is noise and grinding noise from the generator

The generator has a rotating rotor, so it must make noise during operation. However, if these sounds become increasingly loud and unnatural, you should understand the cause of their occurrence:

• loosening the nut on the pulley - you need to tighten the nut and check the degree of belt tension;
• deterioration of the bearings - in this case, the driver may hear a loud grinding noise and even a howl while driving; it will be necessary to press out the old bearings from the shaft and install new ones;
• short circuit in the winding - the entire stator needs to be replaced;
• creaking brushes - it is recommended to clean the brushes from adhering dirt.

Troubleshooting yourself

It’s wise to start car repairs by looking for the simplest faults, in our case mechanical damage. You should inspect the drive belt, adjust its tension, and rule out a malfunction of its brush mechanism. You can tighten the fastenings of the power wires. If this work does not bring results and the on-board network voltage on the VAZ 2114 is still low, then you can begin to disassemble the entire assembly and carry out a full diagnosis of it.

Checking the generator winding

The stages of work, as in the first case, should preferably be carried out from simple to complex:

1. Check the regulator to see if it is in working condition.
2. Check the voltage on a cold motor, it should be no less than 14.5 V.
3. Turn off the car engine and disconnect the battery terminals.
4. It is imperative to disconnect the electrical wiring from the unit to be repaired.
5. Carefully remove the protective cover from the electrical contact unit.
6. Remove the wiring block and regulator.
7. Check the condition of the brushes and brush holder; if they are faulty, replace them with new ones.
8. Make sure the regulator (tablet) is working properly. This can be done using a battery, two regular batteries (finger-type batteries) and one 12 V incandescent lamp. To determine the operating status of the regulator, it is necessary to alternately apply voltage of 12 V and 15 V. The lamp on the brushes should be lit.
9. If a regulator malfunction is detected, you must buy a new one and replace it.
10. Check the diode bridge. Replace the faulty spare part with a new one by removing the generator from the car.

Checking the diode bridge

1. If you have minimal knowledge of an electrician and armed with a multimeter, check the functionality of all diodes (six power and three additional). To do this, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the spacer bushings, disconnect the wires and remove the horseshoe.
2. Check the generator winding. If a breakdown is detected, it must be replaced.
3. Disconnect the battery using the following tools: - pry bar; — keys for 13 mm and 10 mm; — 3 socket heads for 13, 17 and 19 mm. First, you should remove the wire that powers the battery, then use a 13 mm socket to unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the adjustment bracket. After this, turning the generator, you can slowly remove its mounting axis to the bracket.
4. Be sure to diagnose the performance of the front bearing assembly.

Generator jammed

Generator jammed

The question is: is it worth disassembling it to replace or lubricate the bearings or just buy a similar used one? Can anyone recommend companies that repair generators?

T. Kaldina, 5EFE engine

Thursday The guy on Pavlovich asked for 600 rubles + spare parts for repairs. I couldn't disassemble the generator myself - the nut on the rotor broke off. We stopped by the craftsmen in their garages - they noticed a crack in the generator housing and advised us not to use this generator again - you never know, it will jam again. In addition, the generator turned out to be a “tough nut to crack” and the nut did not work.

Friday I had to buy a newspaper ad and call offices - a showdown. A marketing study of the 5E generator market showed that in 5 places you can buy this unit for 800 - 2500 rubles.

Saturday Went to one and sorted it out, bought it for 800. Went to the market, bought belts and keys. By evening the generator was standing and working. but with some kind of metallic suspicious noise. The new generator has bearings. or nayo.

Resurrection I went for a drive to the dacha, around the city. I removed the generator in the evening.

Mon In the morning I stopped by (by bus) for disassembly. The generator was replaced with another one. In the evening I installed the generator - it spins and makes no noise. but it doesn’t produce any current either (judging by the indication of the lights and the stalling of the engine when the terminal is removed from the battery)

Tue In the morning I went to the disassembly site and exchanged the generator for money (they ran out of generators). From there I went to the market on Oboronnaya and bought another generator. Installed it in the evening, checked it, it works.

In general, I solved the problem in a week. As a result, I gained experience in fuss-free and very quick replacement of alternators and belts on 5E.

You can say lucky, on the weekend to the sea!

You're out of luck with the changes.

Thank you for taking the time to describe.

Unread message JAOS » Aug 18, 2004 6:37 pm

Since we are talking about numerous repairs of the same equipment, then I have something to add. I don’t remember everything in detail, but still.

Once upon a time I bought a Mazda RX7 and after a week I realized that the generator on it was dead, because you drive at night with the headlights on, but in the morning it won’t start. You drive during the day and it starts in the morning.

I removed the generator for the first time and took it somewhere for repairs. They looked and said that the diode bridge had failed. I don’t remember if they replaced it or repaired it, but they did it and I installed the generator on the car. I drove for two days and the same crap. I'm renting from this office again. There they scratched their turnips and again did something with the diode bridge. Again I put it in place and a few days later it’s exactly the same crap again.

I think these are morons and I remove it for the third time, but this time someone tells me that he has an electrician friend who can do such things in a jiffy. I drag him to him. What would you think? The same canoe twice And then I was not laughing

I already shoot it in the dark in 3 minutes, in the evening in the garage and really without light. I'm kidding myself.

I don’t remember who told me or how I found out about the car service center in the area of ​​the OBD plant. It is now called STK HONDA. I took it off, brought it in, did it, put it on and again the same “waffle”.

Naturally, I warn all specialists in advance that not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance and I tell stories about my adventures.

The generator is being repaired again and God knows how many times the whole thing is repeated. Here the local master Petrovich intervenes, who previously assigned his subordinates to work on my generator.

He sat there for a long time, with a magnifying glass in his eye like a watchmaker's. I actually fixed it. After that, I drove this car for another three years and the generator never bothered me. It’s a pity Petrovich doesn’t work there now. Good master.

Now for the first time I counted how many times I removed the generator 7 TIMES.

Now try to guess what was the matter.

What to do if the generator does not work.

If the generator does not work, then the red battery discharge light continues to light when the engine is running.

It is necessary to check whether the alternator belt is in place or not and check its tension

You need to check the 10th fuse

Check the voltage at the output of the wire to the voltage regulator, at point B, should be 12 Volts.

Check for the presence of positive voltage from the battery at the power output of the generator.

If there are positives at both points, but the generator does not work, you can try replacing the voltage regulator without removing the generator. This is difficult to do, and impossible on old rusty generators. You'll have to remove the generator.

If the generator is very old, it must be replaced. See generator repair

If the battery is discharged and the light does not light, then you need to check the voltage with a voltmeter. If the voltage on the battery is above 13.5 Volts, then the generator is working, but the battery is no longer suitable.

If the voltage is less than 13.5 Volts and the light does not light, then you need to check the 9th fuse, there may be an open circuit in the control light circuit, or the PC 702 relay is faulty. If you have fixed the problem with the light bulb, then you need to find the cause of the low voltage and the generator malfunction.

You need to pay attention to the voltmeter. If the voltmeter needle moves into the red zone of the scale, then the voltage has become higher than normal.

At the same time, the battery will become wet, an acidic smell will appear, the lights will burn brightly and blink. This happens if the voltage regulator has broken. You need to measure the voltage on the battery, make sure that it is more than 14.5 Volts, the regulator is definitely broken and needs to be replaced. If the regulator is in an aluminum case, then the I 112V tablet is installed in it; it should not be confused with the I 112A tablet, and even more so, with the I120 tablet, which is similar in appearance

The letters on the regulator Ya 112 In many of its analogues with other designations should be BVSh, if VVSh, then this is Ya 112A and it cannot be put.

More modern single-case regulators for G 222 generators with a brush assembly are much more reliable.

How to solve a problem

The procedure for finding the reason why the generator does not charge the battery:

1. Check to see if the accessory drive belt (or alternator belt) is broken. If the belt is intact, check its tension.
2. If the belt tension is normal, but the warning light is still on, check that the wiring harness block and the positive wire terminal are securely connected to the generator. Please note that wires may be broken or broken within the insulation.
3. Check the reliability of the wire connections to the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the generator fuse in the engine compartment mounting block. Replace the blown fuse if necessary.
5. If, after all the measures taken, the charging lamp continues to light while the engine is running, then most likely the generator is faulty (for example, the voltage regulator is faulty

Generator connection diagram for VAZ 2107

The VAZ 2107 charging scheme depends on what type of generator is used. To recharge the battery on cars such as VAZ-2107, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, which have a carburetor engine, you will need a G-222 type generator or its equivalent with a maximum output current of 55A. In turn, VAZ-2107 cars with an injection engine use a generator 5142.3771 or its prototype, which is called a high-energy generator, with a maximum output current of 80-90A. It is also possible to install more powerful generators with an output current of up to 100A. Absolutely all types of alternating current generators have built-in rectifier units and voltage regulators; they are usually made in the same housing with brushes or are removable and mounted on the housing itself.

The VAZ 2107 charging circuit has minor differences depending on the year of manufacture of the car. The most important difference is the presence or absence of a charge indicator lamp, which is located on the instrument panel, as well as the method of connecting it and the presence or absence of a voltmeter. Such circuits are mainly used on carburetor cars, while on cars with injection engines the circuit does not change, it is identical to those cars that were manufactured previously.

Generator set designations:

1. “Plus” of the power rectifier: “+”, V, 30, V+, WAT.
2. “Ground”: “-”, D-, 31, B-, M, E, GRD.
3. Excitation winding output: Ш, 67, DF, F, EXC, E, FLD.
4. Output for connection to the serviceability lamp: D, D+, 61, L, WL, IND.
5. Phase output:

,W,R,STA.

• Output of the stator winding zero point: 0, MP.
• Output of the voltage regulator for connecting it to the on-board network, usually to the “+” of the battery: B, 15, S.
• Voltage regulator output for powering it from the ignition switch: IG.
• Voltage regulator output for connecting it to the on-board computer: FR, F.

Generator circuit VAZ-2107 type 37.3701

1. Accumulator battery.
2. Generator.
3. Voltage regulator.
4. Mounting block.
5. Ignition switch.
6. Voltmeter.
7. Battery charge indicator lamp.

When the ignition is turned on, the plus from the lock goes to fuse No. 10, and then goes to the battery charge indicator lamp relay, then goes to the contact and to the coil output. The second terminal of the coil interacts with the central terminal of the starter, where all three windings are connected. If the relay contacts close, then the control lamp lights up. When the engine starts, the generator generates current and an alternating voltage of 7V appears on the windings. Current passes through the relay coil and the armature begins to attract, and the contacts open. Generator No. 15 passes current through fuse No. 9. Similarly, the excitation winding receives power through the brush voltage generator.

Let's consider replacing the brushes of the VAZ 2107 generator without removing it from the car.

The first thing you need to do is disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, then pull out the brush holder output connector.
The brush holder is located on the end surface (the opposite side from the pulley on which the generator belt is placed) on the right side. It consists of two parallel metal pins and plastic holders. Next, you need to find the screw securing the brush assembly and unscrew it. The assembly should now easily detach from the main part. We check the protrusion of the brushes and their uniform wear. The working surface (length) of the brushes must be at least 12 mm; if less, then the VAZ 2107 generator brushes must be replaced. In addition, you should check the ease of movement of the metal structures in the holder; they should not rub or jam. If free movement does not occur, then it is recommended to also blow the generator rotor with compressed air.

Installation of new VAZ 2107 generator brushes occurs in the reverse order, taking into account a small nuance. For proper operation of the brush assembly, the protruding contact should be recessed slightly into the assembly and only then begin to screw the assembly to the generator.

The VAZ 2105 battery has boiled - what to do?

There are several reasons why batteries boil. Let's consider them in order of importance:

1. Recharging the battery
2. Short circuit of cans
3. Sulfation of plates
4. Electrical system overload
5. Battery polarity reversal

If the battery boils on your car while driving, you must immediately take the following steps:

• turn off the engine;
• open the hood to provide air flow; if the battery has a jacket, remove it; Allow the battery to cool to a temperature below 40 degrees Celsius (easily determined by touching it with your hand); close the hood, start the car and drive to the nearest gas station;
• purchase distilled water and top up to the required electrolyte level;
• if the battery is maintenance-free, topping up can be done through the gas outlet;
• if the repair kit contains a multimeter, measure the voltage on the battery with the engine running; if the voltage exceeds 15 Volts, disconnect the thick wire of the generator, carefully insulating it and securing it to the nearest body element;
• Continue driving to the parking or repair site, turning off, if possible, all additional comfort devices (stove, car radio, air conditioning and others).

Upper left part of the VAZ-2106 wiring diagram

This diagram allows you to examine the elements of the front of the machine. Here are the following:

• Side left and right turn signal (1);
• Several sidelights (2);
• External (3) and internal (4) headlight samples;
• Connected sound signal (5).

Next are the internal elements of the car's electrical wiring, which are hidden under the hood and body. These include:

• Electric motor terminals for both fans included in the cooling system of the VAZ-2106 engine (6);
• A set of sensors responsible for the timely activation of the electric motor (7);
• 2 types of relays - one is used when turning on the sound signal (8), and the other when regulating the operation of the electric motor of the cooling system (9);
• Small voltage regulator in the car (10);
• Vehicle ignition system coils (11);
• 2nd electric motor, which is responsible for the operation of the windshield washer (12);
• One of the main sensors of the VAZ-2106 - it determines the level of brake fluid in the car and promptly gives the owner a command about non-compliance with the required standards (13);
• Also marked in the center of the diagram are the ignition system distributor (14) and the motor for operating the windshield wiper (15).

This part of the circuit is completed by the following electrical equipment:

1. Car spark plug set (16);
2. Sensors monitoring the oil mixture pressure lamp (17) and a gearbox with an indicator of this pressure on the panel (18);
3. Also shown is the connection of the sensor for the current temperature indicator in the engine coolant (19) and the engine compartment lamp of the VAZ-2106 (10).

Advice: if problems arise with the operation of the engine and specifically the chassis, first check the tire pressure in the car using the table - are all the wheels properly inflated? Then start researching your wiring problems!

Diagnostics

To check the installed relay, simply measure the voltage at the battery terminals, and it will become clear what condition it is in. To check what has been removed and is suspicious, the verification method is slightly different, but in any case it will help to identify:

1. Absence or poor contact in the brush holder terminals.
2. Broken brush conductors.
3. The relay itself is faulty.

A multimeter or a 12-volt test lamp, the power of which does not exceed 2 W, is simply connected to the regulator brushes. It is enough to apply 10-12 V, the lamp should light up or the multimeter should show the corresponding value. After this, a voltage greater than the nominal voltage is supplied - 16-20 volts. In this case, the relay should operate, but the lamp should not light. If the lamp continues to light when the voltage increases, then the regulator is broken and does not perform its functions. In this case it must be replaced

Also, when replacing, you should pay attention to the condition of the brushes. They should protrude beyond the brush holder by no more than 5 mm

This way you can test your regulator and save the battery from premature wear. Keep an eye on the network voltage, and have a good trip!

What to do if there is no charge, weak charge (battery is discharged)?

If the battery of your VAZ 2107 is discharged, then one of three elements may be “to blame”: the generator, the voltage regulator, the connections between them. Determining “who is to blame” can be very simple, even without additional equipment. How this article will help.

We carry out testing using standard equipment

To monitor the operation of the generator on the “seven” there are two instruments: a voltmeter and a control light on the instrument panel. With their help, you can track the cause of your troubles.

1) Turn on the ignition without turning on the starter

and look at the warning light. It should shine at full intensity, as in the photo. The voltmeter needle, normally, stands on the white part of the scale (photo). Let's say everything is OK - go to point 2 - start the engine.

The battery charge control lamp is on

Position of the voltmeter needle before starting the engine (ignition on)

The lamp does not light, the voltmeter needle remains at zero when the ignition is turned on.

Check fuse No. 10 in the mounting block. 99% of the time it will be burnt out. In this case, all other lamps on the instrument panel will also be de-energized. Replace it with the same one and test again. If the fuse burns out again, you need to look for the cause, that is, a short circuit. We check whether the wires from the generator are disconnected, whether the insulation is frayed somewhere, etc. Diagram 3 at this link

The lamp does not light up, the voltmeter needle shows normal

We check the wires on the generator to see if the wire has come loose from terminal “61”. If everything is normal there, you need to check whether there is a “plus” on this wire using a test lamp, an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.

Terminal “61” of the VAZ-2107 generator

If there is a “plus” , we check the “tablet” (aka “chocolate”) and the generator.

There is no “plus” - you will have to remove the instrument panel and check the lamp. Replace the burnt out one. How to remove the panel, watch the video

2) Start the engine

The control lamp should go out, the voltmeter needle goes into the green sector and is located from the middle to the right edge (photo). If everything is so, then most likely the generator is working normally .

The voltmeter shows normal voltage (charging is present)

The lamp remains on or dims slightly

If you give it gas, it goes out at high speeds and lights up again when they decrease. The voltmeter needle is in the white sector and goes to the edge of the green when the speed increases. The generator output is faulty . The same conclusion if the lamp continues to light at any speed, and the voltmeter needle is in the white sector and even goes to red.

Voltage too low (motor running). Weak charge

3) If the generator seems to be working, but the battery is gradually discharged

Let's do one more check. We start the engine, turn on the heater fan and low beam, take the key to “10” and, loosening the negative terminal of the battery, remove it. An idling engine (about 900 rpm) should not stall. If the engine stops, put the terminal back in place and start it again. While holding the speed at 1200-1500, remove the terminal again. Has the engine stalled again? Then turn off the headlights, leave the heater fan on and repeat the test. Now the engine with the negative terminal disconnected from the battery continues to run. output works, but does not produce the required current, it needs to be repaired, the diode bridge will need to be replaced.

Note! During such a check, it is better and safer to work together. You cannot disconnect the battery terminal without at least turning on the heater fan or other load. A voltage surge at the time of shutdown can “burn” the electronic elements of the ignition systems. You need to be especially careful on a car with an injection engine.

How to check the operation of the generator

The battery in a car is an important element of the system, which is responsible for providing the car’s on-board network with electricity. The generator is used to charge the battery while it is active. Unstable operation of a device generating electricity causes a voltage drop in the network and failure to restore the capacity of the power source.

Normal generator performance means timely and complete replenishment of the battery charge level, which decreases under load. Checking the battery charge level from the generator is simple and can be done by the car owner himself.

Diagnostics of an automotive energy-generating device includes a visual inspection of the unit, its elements and related parts, as well as voltage and current measurements. At least twice a year, you should check the tension of the drive belt, excessive weakening of which leads to a decrease in the performance of the generator, and sometimes can lead to breakdown of the device. Once a year, you can check equipment elements - fasteners, diode bridge, voltage regulator and others. Timely maintenance of the battery will also guarantee the absence of problems - cleaning the terminals, adding distilled water.

Diagnostics of indicators such as voltage, current, resistance are also necessary twice a year. To carry it out, you will need special devices - a voltmeter, multimeter or load fork.

Generator repair

First, you need to clean the generator from dirt, oil, dust and everything that has accumulated on it over the entire period of operation.

Unscrew the pulley nut, placing the generator so that the pulley rests on the floor, and then put a 19mm wrench on the nut. While holding the pulley from turning, it is necessary to make several strong and accurate blows on the key. It is unlikely that you will be able to clamp the pulley tightly with your hand, but your efforts may be enough to tear the nut out of place.

Using a 10mm wrench, you need to unscrew the 4 bolts of the tie rods that assemble the generator device into one whole. Using a chisel, knock out the key. This can be done by installing the generator with the shaft up. Place the chisel against the key and start knocking it out with a hammer. Once you have knocked out the key, remove the front cover of the device. If it goes too hard, you need to try to knock it out by weight.

Belt whistles

Often, when a certain malfunction of the VAZ 2107 appears, you can hear an extraneous sound, which allows you to confidently diagnose the problem. One of the malfunctions may be the belt slipping, resulting in a whistle from friction against the pulleys. This problem leads to unstable operation of the generator and lack of battery charge.

Due to the fact that the generator always has the same type of drive, the problems are always the same. The main difference between injection and carburetor models is the presence of a crankshaft position sensor, which must be removed when replacing the belt.

In fact, you can determine the cause of a belt whistling without any problems by eliminating it without the help of professionals. It is only necessary to determine the diagnosis. Among the main causes of slipping are the following:

• generator bearing failure;
• insufficient tension;
• contamination of fuels and lubricants.

POSSIBLE FAULTS

If in maximum load mode the generator produces 12 Volts on the VAZ 2114 (a very low indicator indicating a breakdown of the unit), it is necessary to look for the reasons for its malfunction. It could be:

• Loose belt tension;
• Failure of the generator circuit - the mass has oxidized or the wiring has frayed;
• Faulty voltage regulator;
• Worn or damaged brushes;
• Bearing wear;
• The fuse has blown.

To increase the generator voltage on a VAZ 2114, it is necessary to identify the exact reason why the device is not functioning correctly.

First, check the belt tension - when you press moderately hard with your finger, the belt should not be pushed through by more than one centimeter. The integrity of the external wiring and oxidation of the mass is checked by visual inspection.

Next, we check the voltage regulator, this is done with a multimeter. We connect the device to the generator outputs. With the fourteenth wheel turned on, the tester should show a voltage of 14-14.2 Volts. Now the assistant needs to press on the accelerator; if, as the speed increases, the voltage changes by more than 0.5 Volts, then the regulator is not functioning correctly.

Now you need to check the diodes. We switch the tester to ringing mode and alternately short-circuit the multimeter probes on each of the diodes. The tester should emit a sound signal only when testing in one of the directions; if the tester beeps in each direction, the diode is broken.

Make sure the generator set is working properly!

VAZ 2105 injector diagram

1 – electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; 2 – mounting block; 3 – idle speed regulator; 4 – electronic control unit; 5 – octane potentiometer; 6 – spark plugs; 7 – ignition module; 8 – crankshaft position sensor; 9 – electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor; 10 – tachometer 2105; 11 – control lamp “CHECK ENGINE”; 12 – car ignition relay; 13 – speed sensor; 14 – diagnostic block; 15 – nozzle; 16 – adsorber purge valve; 17, 18, 19 – injection system fuses; 20 – ignition relay for the injection system; 21 – relay for turning on the electric fuel pump; 22 – intake pipe electric heater relay; 23 – electric heater of the intake pipe; 24 – intake pipe heater fuse; 25 – oxygen concentration sensor; 26 – coolant temperature sensor; 27 – throttle position sensor; 28 – air temperature sensor; 29 – absolute pressure sensor;

• A – to the “plus” terminal of the battery;
• B – to terminal “15” of the ignition switch;
• P4 – relay for turning on the fan motor.

How to determine the lack of battery charge on a VAZ 2105

The easiest way to determine the lack of charging is using the car’s instruments, that is, the charging indicator lamp and the sensor (voltmeter) on the instrument panel. The sensor arrow should be in the green sector, and the battery lamp should not light up when the engine is running. Otherwise there is no charging.

But the best way is to check the voltage on the battery with a multimeter. When there is a charge, the voltage on it lies in the range of 13.6-14.2 V, and when there is no charge, it will only have its own voltage of 12 V (± 0.6 V). Under no circumstances remove the terminals from the battery to check to avoid damage to the RR, ECU and other electronic devices on your car.

To troubleshoot battery charging problems, you must use the following tools:

• control lamp 12 V;
• multimeter with a measuring range of up to 60 V AC and DC voltage;
• flat blade screwdriver;
• shaped screwdriver with a Phillips blade;
• pliers;
• knife;
• emery cloth.

why does the VAZ 2105 generator not charge the battery?

The VAZ 2104 car has a voltmeter and a warning lamp on the instrument panel to monitor the battery charge. In cases where the voltmeter is not in the green zone and the control lamp is on, this indicates that the VAZ 2104 is not charging the battery. This could be due to several reasons. First of all, the fuse in the battery charging circuit and the reliability of its fixation in the mounting block are checked. The second thing you need to pay attention to when troubleshooting is the alternator drive belt. The belt should not be worn, twisted and have the required tension. The deflection of the alternator belt should normally be 10-15 mm when pressed by hand.

In addition, it is worth inspecting the generator drive pulley, which may also be worn out, and the belt will simply slide along its surface without turning the generator rotor. In such cases, both the pulley and the belt must be replaced. Next, you need to check the output voltage from the generator, and if it is normal and shows 13.5 -14. 2V, then check the wire from the generator to the battery for integrity and reliability of its connection. The terminals on the battery itself may be oxidized or may not have reliable contact with the battery terminals.

The oxidized terminals are cleaned (a solution of soda and water), and the unreliable contact is tightened. Further, the reason why the VAZ 2104 does not charge the battery may be the generator brushes, which either have extreme wear or are stuck in the brush holder guides. Worn brushes are replaced and jamming is eliminated. In addition, the slip rings may be worn out and the brushes cannot completely lie on the rings, so there is no reliable contact in the excitation circuit. Also, the reason for the lack of charging may be a faulty relay-regulator, combined with the brush assembly. In such cases, the relay-regulator along with the brush assembly must be replaced.

The lack of charging can be affected by an interturn short circuit, a short to ground or a break in the stator winding, as well as a break in the generator excitation circuit. In the generator, the diodes of the rectifier unit (popularly called a horseshoe) can also fail, as well as a short circuit or breakdown of one of the additional diodes. Read also, other reviews The fact that there is a current leak is obvious, since the named devices are working properly. After you have removed the ignition key, you can determine and measure the current leakage with a microammeter at the fuse terminals by removing them one by one. By turning the key to the 1st position, you can also check the current and compare it with the rated one for the consumers connected to the fuse.

Discharged battery voltage

A battery whose terminal voltage is less than 11.6 volts is considered completely inoperative (discharged). In such a situation, the operation of an automobile energy source is impossible: the electrical equipment of the car will cease to function. That is, the battery needs to be charged.

A full discharge seriously affects the condition of lead batteries, which are especially sensitive to this problem. For such a battery to lose more than half of its capacity, just one deep discharge is enough. Batteries that contain antimony are more resistant to strong discharge. The same can be said about gel and AGM products. It is recommended to prevent the battery from being completely discharged, which will negatively affect its service life.

The winter period is worth mentioning separately. At this time, due to the slowdown of chemical reactions, the activity of the electrolyte decreases, which is fraught with its freezing. To prevent such an incident, it is recommended to maintain the voltage of a charged car battery and not allow it to drop below 12.5 V.

generator jams

The main gasket is easier to change

I can pick up your broken generator.

Zufa is good at changing generators on the forum, and he will tell you which one is better to buy.

Quote: From user: sergulett

Maybe it resists due to the battery being discharged after starting?

I kind of doubt it. So that a 6-strand tensioned belt cannot withstand a child’s load of 50-60 A at XX (it still won’t give out more than a gene at the bottom, it’s unlikely to be 50 there). Belts of the same width on buses turn 24-volt generators at 150 amperes at XX (and the gene can produce this 150 A at idle), plus this same belt also turns some kind of pump - and there is no resistance there, although the load on the belt is an order of magnitude greater.

Last year in the winter we had the same problems, you start the car, but the gene is silent, = it was treated by re-gasping, this year it doesn’t bother me, it’s expensive to change the gene, but what the hell are you going to buy, the quality of the spare parts is so-so =

turn-to-turn short circuit in the stator

A useful thing thanks to which the belt lives many times longer

https://mineavto.ru/remont/elektrooborudovanie/prov. Twenty years ago, alternator belts served very little, and then they had to be replaced due to inevitable rupture. Such a short service life of belts is explained by the uneven operation of a car engine, the torque from which is transmitted through impulses during the combustion of fuel in the cylinders. This process is carried out once every two full revolutions of the crankshaft. This also causes an inconsistent crankshaft rotation rate. With all this, the parts that are driven by the generator belts rotate by inertia with cyclicity indicators that differ from those demonstrated by the shaft: they are either significantly ahead or significantly behind. Remembering the acceleration and braking modes of a car, as well as starting and stopping the engine, it is not difficult to understand why the belt stretches and, after some time, breaks. Therefore, in order to level out this phenomenon, a mechanism was invented for the generator overrunning clutch, which was built into its pulley.

But the author has a regular generator, which, by the way (or not by the way), today completely jammed and threw off the belt.

The VAZ 2105 battery has boiled - what to do?

There are several reasons why batteries boil. Let's consider them in order of importance:

1. Recharging the battery
2. Short circuit of cans
3. Sulfation of plates
4. Electrical system overload
5. Battery polarity reversal

If the battery boils on your car while driving, you must immediately take the following steps:

• turn off the engine;
• open the hood to provide air flow; if the battery has a jacket, remove it; Allow the battery to cool to a temperature below 40 degrees Celsius (easily determined by touching it with your hand); close the hood, start the car and drive to the nearest gas station;
• purchase distilled water and top up to the required electrolyte level;
• if the battery is maintenance-free, topping up can be done through the gas outlet;
• if the repair kit contains a multimeter, measure the voltage on the battery with the engine running; if the voltage exceeds 15 Volts, disconnect the thick wire of the generator, carefully insulating it and securing it to the nearest body element;
• Continue driving to the parking or repair site, turning off, if possible, all additional comfort devices (stove, car radio, air conditioning and others).