Steering VAZ 2107: purpose, adjustment, malfunctions and their elimination


Steering VAZ 2107

The steering mechanism of the VAZ “Seven” consists of several units connected together by means of fasteners. These components and their constituent elements, like any other part of the car, wear out over time and become unusable. The purpose, design, repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2107 steering system should be discussed in more detail.

Purpose

The main function assigned to the steering mechanism is to ensure the vehicle moves in the direction specified by the driver. On most passenger cars, the trajectory of movement is carried out by turning the wheels of the front axle. The steering mechanism of the “seven” is quite complex, but at the same time it provides trouble-free control in different situations on the road. The car is equipped with a safety steering column with a driveshaft that folds upon impact. The steering wheel of the mechanism in question has a diameter of 40 cm and to completely turn the wheels you need to make only 3.5 turns, which allows you to perform maneuvers without much difficulty.

What does it consist of?

The front wheel control mechanism on the VAZ 2107 is made of the following basic elements:

  • steering wheel;
  • shaft;
  • gearbox;
  • bipod;
  • trapezoid;
  • pendulum;
  • steering knuckles.


Steering VAZ 2107: 1 - lateral thrust; 2 - bipod; 3 - medium thrust; 4 — pendulum lever; 5 - adjusting coupling; 6 — lower ball joint of the front suspension; 7 — right steering knuckle; 8 — upper ball joint of the front suspension; 9 — right steering knuckle lever; 10 — bracket for the pendulum arm; 11 — bearing of the upper steering shaft; 12, 19 — steering shaft mounting bracket; 13 — pipe of the steering shaft mounting bracket; 14 — upper steering shaft; 15 — steering gear housing; 16 — intermediate steering shaft; 17 — facing casing of the steering shaft; 18 — steering wheel; 20 — fixing plate of the front bracket; 21 — coupling bolt for fastening the universal joint; 22 — body spar

Steering shaft

Through the shaft, rotation from the steering wheel is transmitted to the steering column. The shaft is secured with a bracket to the car body. Structurally, the element is made in the form of a cardan with crosspieces and an upper shaft. In the event of a collision, the mechanism folds, thereby ensuring the safety of the driver.

Gearbox

The VAZ 2107 is equipped with a worm steering column, which converts the rotational movement of the steering wheel into the translational movement of the steering rods. The operating principle of the steering mechanism is as follows:

  1. The driver turns the steering wheel.
  2. By means of cardan joints, the worm shaft is driven, thereby reducing the number of revolutions of the steering wheel.
  3. The worm element rotates, moving the double-ridge roller.
  4. The secondary shaft rotates, on which the bipod is fixed, driving the steering rods.
  5. The trapezoid moves the steering knuckles, turning the wheels in the desired direction.


One of the main components in the steering mechanism is the steering column.

The steering bipod is a part through which the steering linkage is connected to the steering gearbox.

Steering linkage

The radius of the vehicle's trajectory when turning depends on the angle of rotation of the wheels. Since the outer wheel has a larger radius than the inner one, in order to avoid the latter slipping and deteriorating traction with the road surface, the front wheels must deviate at different angles.


The front wheels must turn at different angles to avoid slipping.

This is what the steering linkage is used for. During the maneuver, the transverse thrust of the mechanism shifts under the influence of the bipod. Thanks to the pendulum arm, it pushes and pulls the side rods. Since misalignment occurs, the impact on the tie rod ends is different, which leads to the wheels turning at different angles. The tips of the trapezoid with the rods are connected through adjusting couplings, which allow you to change the angles of rotation of the wheels. The parts of the trapezoid are connected to each other by identical ball joints. This design contributes to the normal operation of the unit even when driving on bad roads.


The steering linkage allows the front wheels to turn at different angles.

Pendulum arm

The steering pendulum of the “seven” is necessary for synchronous rotation of the wheels of the front axle without lag. Thus, the car is able to corner safely. If malfunctions occur with the pendulum, the vehicle’s performance during maneuvers deteriorates, which can lead to an emergency.


The pendulum is designed to synchronously rotate the wheels when the steering wheel is rotated

Rounded fist

The main purpose of the steering knuckle (trunnion) is to ensure that the front wheels turn in the direction desired by the driver. The part is made of durable steel, since high loads are placed on it. Steering rod ends, hubs, and brake system elements are also attached to the knuckles. The axle is fixed to the front suspension arms using ball joints.

Replacement

If you decide to replace the rail yourself, invite someone you know to help you. You will definitely need an assistant in this process. Also prepare the following tools and supplies:

  • set of wrenches;
  • hex key 17;
  • jack;
  • wheel wrench;
  • bricks or logs to install the raised front part of the car without wheels;
  • steering rod puller (if equipped);
  • rust preventative (WD-40);
  • Litol lubricant or equivalent;
  • rag.

Work order:

  1. Place the car on a level surface.
  2. Secure it with the parking brake.
  3. Use a jack, wheel wrench and logs (bricks) to lift the front of the car and remove the front wheels.
  4. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
  5. In the passenger compartment, on the driver's side, in the area of ​​the pedal block, unscrew the locking bolt of the steering shaft cardan.
  6. Remove the adsorber from the engine compartment and move it to the side.
  7. Unscrew the steering end nuts, first pulling out the cotter pins.
  8. Using a rod puller, remove the ends from the posts. If there is no puller, tap the tips from below with light blows, being careful not to damage the threads on them.
  9. Spray the steering rack clamp nuts with rust remover and let it soak in.
  10. Unscrew the clamp nuts with a wrench (4 pcs).
  11. Remove the steering rack by pushing it to the right (passenger) side.
  12. Remove the tips from the rack and determine the approximate number of turns by which the nuts were tightened, so that you can then tighten them more or less accurately, and go to the nearest service station to adjust the wheel alignment.
  13. Remove the plugs on the sides of the new rail and fill the body with Litol as much as possible.
  14. Screw the ends to the rods (do not mix them up - they are different).
  15. Install the new rail into place by attaching the nuts to the studs of the clamps.
  16. Call an assistant and ask him to help you guide the steering shaft drive gear into the seat on the rack housing. Check the precise alignment of the splines.
  17. Tighten the locking bolt on the steering cardan.
  18. Carry out the rest of the installation work in reverse order. Don’t forget to lubricate all threaded connections with Lithol - it will be easier to disassemble next time.

Steering problems

The steering mechanism, like any other vehicle component, wears out and requires repair over time. To simplify the troubleshooting, there are certain signs that allow you to find out the nature of the breakdown and fix it in a short time.

Oil leak

On a classic, the problem of a “wet” steering gear is quite common. There can be many reasons for this:

  • oil seal wear;
  • leakage from under the gasket;
  • loosening of the fasteners that secure the mechanism cover;
  • Corrosion of the input shaft.

If the oil seal and gaskets can be replaced and the bolts tightened, then if the shaft is damaged, the part will have to be ground.


One of the options to get rid of oil leaks from the gearbox with working seals is to treat the cover with sealant

Tight steering wheel

Sometimes it happens that to turn the steering wheel it is necessary to apply noticeably more effort than usual. Several reasons can lead to this malfunction:

  • incorrect wheel alignment;
  • failure of one of the elements in the steering mechanism;
  • the gap between the worm and the roller is broken;
  • The pendulum axis fasteners are too tight.

Steering play

One of the reasons for free play in the steering mechanism is wear on the shaft crosspieces. In addition to them, play appears in the gearbox itself. If the unit has a high mileage, then it is advisable to disassemble it, inspect the condition of all the elements, replace parts with high wear, and then carry out adjustments.

Knock and vibration

If you feel feedback on the steering wheel while driving, there can be many reasons for this phenomenon. Driving a vehicle in such a technical condition leads to rapid fatigue and reduces the level of safety. Therefore, the steering mechanism needs diagnostics.

Table: causes of vibrations and knocking on the steering wheel and ways to eliminate them

Cause of steering failureTroubleshooting method
Increased clearance in front wheel hub bearingsAdjust the front wheel hub clearance
Loosening the tie rod ball pin nutsTighten the tie rod ball stud nuts
Increased clearance between the pendulum arm axis and the bushingsReplace the swingarm bushings or bracket assembly
The adjusting nut of the pendulum arm axis is looseAdjust the tightness of the swingarm nut
The clearance in the engagement of the roller with the worm or in the worm bearings is brokenAdjust the gap
Increased clearance in steering rod ball jointsReplace tie rod ends or tie rods
Loosening the bolts securing the steering gear housing or the pendulum arm bracketTighten the bolt nuts
Loosening the swing arm nutsTighten the nuts

Why install the rail?

At the moment, there are two known cars from which a rack can be adapted to a Zhiguli.


IZH Oda

The first is a very close relative of the “Classics” - IZH Oda. But the simplest and least labor-intensive option is to find a steering rack from a Volkswagen Golf 2. We used the second option, so we will describe it. In addition, the IL rack reduces the maximum steering rotation, which can cause discomfort when turning. But the Golf rack improves this parameter.

Golf 2

Troubleshooting

As the car moves, the ball pins rotate in different planes and gradually wear out the crackers, which causes backlash. The following signs indicate critical wear of a tip (or several):

  • a distinct dull tapping sound when driving over any uneven surfaces;
  • vibration from the play of the ball pins is transmitted to the steering wheel;
  • on a flat section of the road the car spontaneously leaves the straight path;
  • The rotation of the steering wheel is difficult, and a creaking sound is heard from below.

When a lot of force is required to turn the steering wheel, the worn tip must be replaced immediately. The symptom indicates that the ball pin is jammed inside the housing. If measures are not taken in time, the hinge may jump out of its socket and the car will become uncontrollable.

A similar story happened to my relative. When there was literally half a kilometer left to drive to the garage, the right steering tip on the “seven” broke off. The driver showed ingenuity: he tied the end of the dropped rod to the suspension arm, leveled the wheel with his hands and slowly continued driving. When it was necessary to turn, he stopped, got out of the car and manually adjusted the wheel in the right direction. The 500 m long path was covered in 40 minutes (including the entrance to the garage).

Steering rods of Zhiguli cars become unusable for a number of reasons:

  1. Natural wear and tear. Play and knocking appear at 20-30 thousand km, depending on conditions and driving style.
  2. Operation with torn hinge boots. Water flows into the unit through the holes, dust and sand penetrate. Corrosion and abrasive effects quickly destroy the ball pin.
  3. Lack of lubrication leads to increased friction and accelerated wear. The presence of lubricant must be checked before installing the part on the car.
  4. Bending of the rod due to impact with a stone or other obstacle. If the outcome is successful, the element can be removed and leveled by heating it with a burner.

When the production of all tips reaches a critical limit, the front wheels have large free play in the horizontal plane. To drive straight, the driver has to “catch” the car along the entire road. How to diagnose wear on steering rods and not confuse them with suspension faults:

  1. Place the car on a viewing ditch or overpass and apply the handbrake.
  2. Go down into the hole and carefully inspect the trapezoid, especially after hitting the bottom.
  3. Grab the shaft near the tip with your hand and rock it up and down. If you feel free movement, replace the worn element. Repeat the operation on all hinges.

The method of developing traction during diagnosis is of great importance. There is no point in turning the lever around its own axis - this is its normal operating stroke. If the test shows a small tight play, the hinge is considered to be in good condition - the internal spring is triggered.

Video: how to check the steering linkage of a Zhiguli

Installing electric power steering

If a car owner wants to install an electric booster on a VAZ-2107, he should give preference to factory units. Before setting up and upgrading the system, the transmission speed sensor should be adjusted. This will avoid turning the steering wheel too “tight”.

Among other additions, when installing an ESD in your car, the vehicle owner will have to install a new choke cable (you can purchase it as part of the ESD kit for the VAZ-2108), replace the gearbox and install a MUR1100E diode.

Electric power steering on a VAZ-2107, when purchasing a ready-made kit, requires the presence of a speed sensor, various fasteners, a choke cable, an ignition switch, several switches and a casing for the steering column.

When assembling an electric power steering for a VAZ-2107 with your own hands, you need to start with the adapter plate and cardan. After removing the crosspiece, you need to select a cardan of the appropriate length. The welded and assembled crosspiece, or rather its bearings, are equipped with new lubricant. After this, the steering device is installed and the electrical component of the power steering is connected. The red wire should go to the battery, and the brown wire should go to its mounting stud. The blue cable for the ignition switch should go to the orange one. The tachometer wires should go to the dashboard chip, and the connecting elements between the speed sensors should go to the ninth pin of the ECU.

Price issue

The cost of new slats depends on the manufacturer, region, and even the specific store where you are going to purchase them.

Replacement kit

If you don’t want to change it yourself, then get ready to pay about 1.5-2 thousand rubles for the services of specialists from service stations. Today this is the average price of such repairs. Again, it all depends on the level of the car service, and sometimes on its arrogance.

Purpose and operation scheme of the trapezoid

The rod system serves as an intermediary between the steering shaft and the steering knuckles of the front hubs. The task of the mechanism is to synchronously turn the wheels in one direction or another, obeying the rotation of the steering wheel. The trapezoid is located under the engine at the level of the bottom of the car, attached to the body stiffening elements - the lower side members.

The part of the steering mechanism in question consists of 3 main parts:

  • the middle link is screwed to two bipods - a pendulum lever and a worm steering gear;
  • the right link is attached to the swing arm of the pendulum and the steering knuckle of the front right wheel (in the direction of travel of the car);
  • The left rod is connected to the gearbox bipod and the left front hub knuckle.
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