Checking distributor cap malfunctions and recommendations for eliminating them

The issue of ensuring safe and quick engine starting worries every motorist. And the leading role in this matter is played by the car’s starting system, which is essentially a kind of start when operating the car. For this reason, in order to avoid unpleasant situations, this system must always be in good condition. And special attention should be paid to such an element of the ignition system as the distributor. Such a mechanism can be called indispensable in the overall design, and therefore, it is very important to understand the signs of its malfunctions and have a good understanding of how they can be eliminated in the future.

Distributor design

The distributor circuit assumes the presence of such elements as:

  • low voltage current breaker;
  • high voltage current distributor;
  • centrifugal ignition timing regulator;
  • vacuum ignition timing regulator.

The distributor circuit is designed so that at a certain moment the breaker opens the primary ignition circuit, as a result of which a high voltage current is created in the secondary winding of the ignition coil. Through the distributor, this current is transmitted to the spark plugs in certain cylinders. The regulators automatically adjust the ignition timing, which depends on the current operating mode of the engine.

The distributor breaker is an electromechanical part and consists of the following parts:

  • shaft;
  • movable contact plate;
  • movable contact plate;
  • capacitor;
  • frame.

The breaker shaft consists of two main parts. On one of them, depending on the type of breaker, cams are installed, the number equal to the number of cylinders in the engine. This distributor device is not very reliable, since a large number of contacts, as well as the presence of moving parts, lead to regular problems with this unit.

The distributor device, as well as its use in general, are outdated from the point of view of modern electrical equipment, but in our country there are still a lot of carburetor engines, so the problem of the performance of this unit is currently relevant.

As for where the distributor is located in the car, most often it can be found under the hood next to the engine, near the cylinder head or on it. Although the exact location of the node depends solely on the model of the machine.

Setting the ignition timing with advance

This setup is completely easy to do. Even a beginner can cope with this task. To do this, prepare a 13 mm wrench and a special 38 mm crankshaft wrench in advance.

If your car is started, be sure to turn off the engine, since you can only turn on the ignition when the engine is turned off. First, the piston of the first cylinder is installed at the top dead center of the compression stroke, that is, in the ignition position. Before doing this, remove the candles and plug the hole from them with cotton.

You need to align the mark on the crankshaft and the front engine cover. To do this, use a wrench to start turning the crankshaft clockwise. During this action, the air compressed there should push out the cotton wool, thereby indicating the compression stroke. Continue turning the shaft slowly until the marks on the timing belt pulley and cover line up.

Please note that there are 3 marks on the cover:

  • The first indicates ignition advance by 10º;
  • the second – by 5 º;
  • the third is equal to zero.

Since a VAZ 2107 engine with a carburetor runs on 92 or 95 gasoline, we need to set the ignition for these types of fuel. That is why you should select the second mark, which will indicate an ignition advance of 5º.

Once the required parameters match, put the spark plugs in place and remove the wires. The system is ready for use.

Distributor malfunctions

The following signs indicate that the distributor is malfunctioning:

When there is a spark on the central wire, but not on the spark plug wires, this indicates a breakdown of the slider.

In most cases, the causes of distributor failure are:

Breakdown of the roof and ignition coil occurs due to large gaps in the contacts of the distributor cover and slider, spark plugs and bad candlesticks.

In each of these cases, replacement is required. But at the same time, for almost any car, it is possible to change not the entire distributor, but only its failed part, which is an advantage, since it significantly reduces the cost of repairs.

The most basic check of the distributor is a visual assessment of the condition of the slider, contacts and cover.

In a contactless distributor, the main malfunction is the failure of the hall sensor or inductive sensor.

To check the ignition system and distributor, among other things, observe the spark on the unscrewed spark plug after starting the engine. In garage conditions, you can also check using measuring instruments or indicators.

The distributor capacitor is also one of the parts that often fail. It helps to increase the voltage supplied to the spark plugs when the engine starts. And in order to check it, you need to disconnect it and touch the “ground”, and if a characteristic crackling sound is heard and a voltage drop is observed, the capacitor is working, if this does not happen to the replacement part.

About the ignition system in detail

The ignition system of a gasoline internal combustion engine “breathes” due to spark formation on the SZ elements, which ignite the mixture in the combustion chamber. Obviously, the efficiency of the fuel combustion process, the functioning of the engine as a whole, etc. directly depend on the timing of ignition. For this reason, the ignition must be set to the most optimal position for normal operation.

Most modern cars are equipped with electronic ignitions that do not require any adjustments. However, for the normal functioning of cars with a carburetor ignition system equipped with a 4-stroke internal combustion engine, adjustment is required. It is thanks to this that timely sparking is guaranteed.

Correct adjustment of the distributor

The first sign that something wrong is going on with the ignition system is characteristic knocks and noises while the car is driving.

A 4-stroke internal combustion engine operates according to the following scheme:

  • First, fuel is injected.
  • Then the compression stroke occurs.
  • A working stroke is in progress, during which a spark is generated that ignites the mixture.
  • Finally, the last step is the release of the working.

Ignition, to be more precise, occurs not during the working moment, but at the border of the compression stroke and the working stroke. At this very moment, the SZ produces a spark that ignites the fuel mixture.

Important point. The SZ is required to produce a spark at the moment when the motor piston almost reaches a position called TDC.

Setting the ignition on the distributor

It happens that the moment of operation of the SZ becomes a little off as time passes, which entails a decrease in the time of effective spark action. The time interval between reaching TDC and ignition of the fuel is called ignition timing. Its value is determined by a numbered scale marked on the crankshaft flywheel.

Malfunction of the contact distributor.

Malfunction of the distributor during contact ignition is due to a change in the gap in the contacts or their contamination. The operation of a contact distributor, in contrast to a non-contact distributor, is greatly influenced by the condition of the contacts, which must be checked after 10,000 km. Distributor malfunctions include wear of the shaft cams and the stop of the contacts sliding along them, wear of the bushings in which the shaft rotates, destruction of the bearing of the movable contact plate, weakening of the contact spring, jamming of the contacts on the axis, burning, erosion or contamination of the contacts.

All these faults lead to a change in the gap or a violation of contact between the contacts. As a consequence, loss of engine power, engine idling stops, throttle response decreases, jerking is possible when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.

In case of significant wear or destruction of the bearing of the movable contact plate, critical wear of the bushings, breakage of the negative shunt, a violation of the contact of the contact pair lever and the contact itself leads to popping noises in the intake manifold and muffler. This is also possible if the radio interference resistor located in the distributor runner burns out.

When the engine does not start, this may be due to a lack of contact or gap in the contact pair, or a breakdown of the slider. The absence, contamination or burnout of contacts is determined visually if there is no spark discharge on the high-voltage wire coming from the ignition coil. If there is a spark on the central wire and no spark on the spark plug wires, this indicates a breakdown of the slider. Malfunctions also include malfunction of the centrifugal and vacuum regulators. If there is a weak spark on the central wire and large sparking between the contacts, the capacitor is most likely faulty. Do not install additional capacitors or capacitors of larger capacity. The capacitance of the capacitor should be in the range of 0.15 - 0.35 µF.

Why did the engine start to stall? – The most complete analysis of the reasons

What does the term “Engine Troit” mean?

I ask this question at the beginning of the article in order to cut off the “couch experts”, and only real car enthusiasts who love and appreciate their car remain here.

Just one of the commentators began to assert:

“Engine tripping is when there is no one cycle in the operation of an internal combustion engine. That is, out of four cycles of engine operation, one cycle was thrown away.”

I explained to him that he was wrong, but he didn’t get it. To prevent such armchair army specialists from wasting their time and “cracking” in the comments, I want to cut them off right away.

Now let's continue the conversation with real car lovers.

Today we will look at the main reasons why the motor may trip. They may seem banal, but read my work to the end carefully, I am sure you will learn something new for yourself.

Malfunction of the contactless distributor.

When operating contactless distributors, the main malfunction is a malfunction of the hall sensor or inductive sensor. Minor wear and play in the bushings and bearing of the movable contact plate do not affect the operation of the distributor until the sensor rotor touches the stator.

Such malfunctions as breakdown of the slider, burning of its resistance. It can also break through the distributor cap between the cylinders. This malfunction is typical for non-contact distributors, since the secondary voltage in these systems is twice as high as in a contact one.

Determining faults in the ignition system

Malfunctions of the ignition system lead to the fact that either the engine does not start, or runs intermittently at idle or in all modes, or does not develop full power.

In what cases is ignition installation necessary?

There are several symptoms by which a car owner can determine that it is necessary to adjust and set the ignition breaker:

  1. Inability to start the engine.
  2. Increased gasoline consumption. Of course, this may be due to the need to adjust the carburetor, but this also happens. For example, if the ignition is set later, the dynamics of the car will be low, and in order to accelerate normally, the engine needs more air-fuel mixture.
  3. The appearance of shots in the silencer. If the explosion follows, it will take some time for the gases to expand. In the event that the piston reaches BDC, the exhaust stroke will be next, which means that a certain part of the fuel will be transferred to the exhaust system. Accordingly, pops will appear as a result.
  4. The power unit began to operate noisier. and you will need to install 2106 correctly in case of shaking and tripping of the engine. The upward piston makes the operation of the power unit more rigid, and the explosion of the mixture will occur towards it.


Setting the ignition to "six"

When is there an option to repair?

If during testing both secondary windings show integrity and serviceability, the reason for the inoperability of the coils may be a break in the soldering of the switch wires. Such damage is detected when the rear cover of the module is removed. If you have a soldering iron and know how to use it, you can restore the integrity of damaged contacts, while at the same time strengthening the rest. This, unfortunately, is the only failure of the ignition module that can be repaired.

Testing the ignition module can be done using simple do-it-yourself instruments. Based on our advice, you will be able to fully check both the module itself and other elements of the mechanism that may be the cause of the breakdown. We wish you success in this matter!

Repair

So, the car owner has identified certain malfunctions in the operation of the distributor and is ready to begin repairing this unit on his own. The first thing you need to know in this case is how to properly remove and install the distributor back. I recommend following these instructions:

The car owner should know that each wire on the distributor cover is installed in a certain sequence, which depends on the operation of the cylinders. So, of all of them, only the first one is indicated, and the rest must be installed by the driver himself, and this must be done counterclockwise. Another mandatory factor when carrying out this procedure is that the car enthusiast’s view should be from the side of the antifreeze tank, made of plastic.

An equally important point: if there is a need to replace the cover or slider, then dismantling the distributor itself is no longer required.

So, repair of the ignition distributor-distributor takes place in the following stages:

Repair of the distributor, despite the fact that it is considered a complex part and no less capricious, can be carried out on your own. Therefore, I advise you not to be afraid and try to complete this process, while being sure to follow the given instructions.

Checking distributor cap malfunctions and recommendations for eliminating them

The issue of ensuring safe and quick engine starting worries every motorist. And the leading role in this matter is played by the car’s starting system, which is essentially a kind of start when operating the car. For this reason, in order to avoid unpleasant situations, this system must always be in good condition. And special attention should be paid to such an element of the ignition system as the distributor. Such a mechanism can be called indispensable in the overall design, and therefore, it is very important to understand the signs of its malfunctions and have a good understanding of how they can be eliminated in the future.

A classic and original way to strip contacts

Here's what you need to do with the standard, classic version of stripping:

  • The terminal from the battery is removed.
  • The chips and armored wires going to the distributor are removed.

Attention. It is recommended to write down the wires by numbers so that when you put them in place after the operation is completed, you do not get confused.

  • Remove the distributor cover using a 5.5 socket.
  • Visually inspect the slider, which should not interfere with work.

Advice. If the slider interferes with stripping, it is recommended to put the car in 5th gear and push it forward a little. The runner will then stand up as needed.

  • The slider and contacts are thoroughly cleaned first with large HDD paper, and then with fine paper.

Note. You must act slowly, without pressing hard.

  • The wires are put in place.

An original way to strip contacts without removing VSKV wires.

  • The lower screw is removed (if it does not lend itself, process the VD).
  • The inside of the cover provides access to the contacts.

Note. White deposits on the contacts once again prove the need for cleaning.

  • The plaque is carefully removed with a knife.
  • The contacts are treated with fine sandpaper.

The effect should make itself felt immediately after starting the internal combustion engine. The car will become faster already in the first meters of driving.

Finding the reasons why it triples in wet weather

After inspecting the engine compartment and making sure that there are no obviously damp places or visible damage, we try to start it. It turns out only after 5-10 attempts, while it catches 4-6 times, and even then, these attempts are not always enough to get it started. Further, after a successful first start, the car shows no signs of breakdowns, but as soon as it sits and cools down, everything repeats itself. Only 5-10 km after the start, the car starts without problems.

There is also another popular method of checking what’s what, which will help you find the real problem. Try leaving your car overnight in a place not illuminated by street lights. Then, at night, open the hood and ask someone to do the key-to-start. You yourself need to stand and watch what is happening around the “high voltage”, explosive coils, distributor. There will be “Northern Lights”. You can read on a moonless night with such a glow.

Condensation in the distributor cap

After checking the spark plugs, injectors and fuel pump, and replacing the filter to calm things down, no defects were found. Apart from these factors, you seem to have nothing else to sin about. Although in fact there is no need to dig very deep, because most likely it is condensation in the distributor cap . The cover must be carefully inspected from the inside. As an experiment, try drying it, although the distributors are different on different engines, the vulnerability in them is the same. You need to wash the inside of the distributor cover first with gasoline (to degrease), then with 96% alcohol (to remove moisture).

Many people advise buying a new distributor right away, but don’t rush to buy and change everything ahead of time. According to the never-missing law of meanness, the last of the component parts will be guilty. Only at the extreme end the distributor cap needs to be changed, and with it the slider at the same time.

FAQ

  • What is a distributor?

    The distributor is called the ignition distributor. This part is used in the ignition system of carburetor vehicles only.

  • Where is the distributor located?

    You will find the distributor near the engine or cylinder head. The easiest way to identify it is by the round plastic housing cover with five “horns”, to which the high-voltage ignition wires and the central electrode are connected. The cover is placed on a cylindrical metal case in which the distributor mechanism is located.

  • What is the distributor responsible for?

    The distributor is responsible for ensuring that a spark is supplied to the spark plugs individually, in a certain sequence and in synchronization with the operation of the camshaft.

  • What does a distributor do?

    The distributor receives voltage and creates high-voltage pulses in the ignition system, and then distributes them to the spark plugs of each cylinder in a given sequence. When the crankshaft rotates, the gear of the distributor shaft on which the slider is located rotates, which, constantly rotating, transmits part of the voltage to the contacts of each individual spark plug. Every time a piston is at TDC (top dead center), the slider sends voltage to that cylinder's spark plug.

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