Error 1602 on VAZ 2114 – symptoms, 9 main causes and solutions

Error P1602 means “Control system controller, loss of on-board network voltage.” Understanding the cause of this error is not easy. Error codes in vehicles appear because there is some kind of mechanical or electrical problem that needs attention. The codes trigger error indicators, such as the check engine light, to light up on the dashboard and alert the driver to the problem so they can fix it. However, the error lights on many vehicles do not turn off automatically after the initial problem is resolved. Many vehicles require rebooting the car's computer or manually clearing codes.

Symptoms

Error P1602 on the VAZ 2114 is notable for the fact that sometimes it can appear asymptomatically. The owner learns about it only from the readings of the on-board computer or when conducting diagnostics with a scanner. Therefore, it can be difficult to determine. Additionally, the occurrence of this code may be intermittent.

In some cases, when the ECU reports this code, problems with starting the engine may occur. It may start poorly, not the first time, or not start at all. But this is also not a characteristic feature of this problem. In a similar way, a machine can report many faults.

Error 1602 on VAZ cars: what is the reason

If you look through the VAZ manuals that came with the car, you will find information in them that this malfunction can only occur under the following conditions:

  • With the ignition off;
  • If the controller notices that some data has been lost.

This problem occurs on almost all relatively new VAZ models, for example:

  • Priora;
  • Grant;
  • VAZ 2110;
  • VAZ 2112;
  • VAZ 2114;
  • Kalina;
  • Niva Chevrolet;

It’s difficult for me to immediately see all the reasons for error P1602. I will try to talk about the main ones. I will describe the problem using the example of individual units in which an error can most often occur:

  1. Battery. It may be discharged or you have poor terminal contact. I once had a problem due to a large number of electrical appliances (I connected an electric winch and plugged in a few more lamps). The system couldn't cope. Also, P1602 may appear if you change the battery or when starting the engine on a discharged battery.
  2. Generator. The reason may be its power or the fact that the contact disappears. The problem often occurs on Priors, Kalinas and VAZ 2114

  1. Signaling. There are modern car protection systems that turn off the battery when the alarm is turned on. It is assumed that if thieves get into the cabin, they will not start the engine. However, the system may generate this exact error.
  2. Minor power loss. For example, you start your car in cold weather. A large flow of energy went from the battery to the starter. The controller was left without power for a short time. As a result, the system issued P1602.
  3. “Mass” of the controller. The reason is quite common. Your car contact is simply oxidized, and the system thinks that it has been left without power and generates an error.
  4. "Mass" between the body and the engine. This happens if your engine is damaged (for example, after an accident), contacts are oxidized, or wire insulation is damaged.
  5. Safety block. The wires in them can also periodically oxidize. As a result, the voltage may also drop. Although the block itself is also worth checking, the reason may be in itself.
  6. Control electrical unit. The error may also appear due to hardware problems. Then I recommend that you contact the service; if you don’t understand it, then it’s better not to get into the firmware yourself.

How to fix the problem?

To fix error P1602, you need to determine the cause of its occurrence. Even during normal operation of the car, simply deleting it from the memory of the electronic control unit, as many VAZ owners do, is wrong. The problem may be more serious than it seems. The only exception is that the code appears after removing the terminal from the battery or in frosty weather.

The first step when an error is detected is to check the battery charge, the condition of its terminals and wires. It is also necessary to test with a multimeter and visually inspect the contacts on the ECU, generator and sensors, ring and evaluate the condition of the wiring by eye. It is often very easy to find the location of broken or oxidized terminals. You can fix these problems yourself.

If the generator or battery is not working properly, it is often possible to restore its functionality. The battery often just needs to be charged with a charger and the terminals cleaned. But many owners also repair the generator themselves. Sometimes it is better to replace these devices.

Problems associated with low-quality fuel are easily solved. To do this, just change the gas station. If there was a switch to another fuel or the unit was flashed, it is advisable to contact an auto electrician. He will do the correct firmware for the equipment.

What is error P1602

When this malfunction occurs, electrical voltage stops flowing to the motor control unit. There may be two options:

  1. There is no voltage in the system at all.
  2. Partial lack of power.

Typically, voltage is transmitted to the controller via several buses:

  • 30 bus – constant voltage, parallel to the positive terminal of the battery;
  • 15 bus - voltage passes through the ignition relay;
  • 50 – voltage passes when the engine starts.

In addition, the motor control controller voltage can pass through the ECU contacts.

First of all, you should understand that if the error code is P1602, then there is no voltage in an emergency or this is a deliberate action of the system. Just as I wrote above, there may be no voltage only in certain areas and, as a result, there is no power to the ECU. The problem can arise from almost any electrical mechanism, for example:

  • When wires break;
  • If the generator fails;
  • Relay problems;
  • In case of battery failure;
  • If you intentionally reboot the system;
  • Other.

Dmitry Timofeev

Has been repairing cars for over 10 years. You can ask him a question.

Ask a Question

In 90% of cases, error P1602 is harmless and practically does not affect the operation of the car. In most cases, even the Check indicator light does not light up.

This error can appear even if you simply removed the negative terminal of the battery.

This does not mean that you should not react to it in any way. An error may make it difficult to start the car. You will especially notice this during the cold season.

Therefore, it is important to find the cause of the error as quickly as possible. Such minor damage can lead to wear and tear of more expensive components.

Let's sum it up

If you own a VAZ car, then you are familiar with the incorrect operation of on-board computers. Often errors are issued for no reason at all, but they interfere with the normal operation of the power unit. Therefore, the best way to protect against most unforeseen situations with on-board computers is to change the software.

In this process, it is important to install the official version of the program without risking the viability of your car. There are known cases when unofficial software killed the entire electrical system of a car, sending strange commands and signals to all sensors of the on-board system

Also, the setup should be done by a professional. Have you had any problems with VAZ on-board computers?

Loss of voltage in the power supply circuit of the VAZ 2114 controller

Error P1602 on the on-board computers of VAZ 2114, 2110, Kalina vehicles means “On-board network voltage interruption” . Specifically, the on-board computer recorded a temporary, short-term lack of voltage. The problem can lead to battery drain, voltage drop and other problems. One of the most annoying problems is that the car won’t start at all. Let's figure out the reasons for this error.

Most often, the error is associated with poor contact of the wires to ground, from the generator or on the battery terminals. In simple terms: there is contact, but there is no contact. Therefore, to correct error 1602 on domestic cars Niva, Priora, Grant , etc. contacts need to be cleaned .


The main contact from the generator, which should be thoroughly cleaned. It is located below all other contacts and most often loses contact.


Check the contacts on the battery terminals and, if necessary, clean them of oxides.

If you solved the problem in another way, share it with us in the comments.

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marat2008

What are you looking at, a scanner? The scanner may not detect a short-term voltage drop when the starter is turned on. I would like to record it with an oscilloscope on a recorder. Or throw in a battery that is known to be good. It would be a good idea to check the spark plugs for the presence of a resistor and the explosive wires for resistance. Also clean all the masses.

Added after 3 minutes

Johnvaldai

I changed the battery, first of all I passed every single one of the masses. The car started up, ran for half an hour and died with the same error. Apparently the heat increases the resistance somewhere. I'm looking further. Tell me what else I can look at. For now I'm digging through all the harnesses with my hands.

Added after 2 minutes

What are you looking at, a scanner? The scanner may not detect a short-term voltage drop when the starter is turned on. I would like to record it with an oscilloscope on a recorder. Or throw in a battery that is known to be good. It would be a good idea to check the spark plugs for the presence of a resistor and the explosive wires for resistance. Also clean all the masses.

Added after 3 minutes

I don't know this code.

Scanmateg issues, it is called Immobilizer is not disarmed with its key.

Added after 3 minutes

[quote=Johnvaldai;407785]What are you watching with, a scanner?

I check the voltage with a voltmeter directly from pin 18 of the ECU. Drop to 9.0 V

Error 1602 appears (loss of mains voltage in the controller), while the car is working normally, I cleared the error by removing the terminal from the battery, the error is erased but appears again after a while.

Let's remove these annoying numbers from the screen

Without exaggeration, the constant appearance of error P1602 on your VAZ-2114 car can be thoroughly annoying. Sometimes it seems that the car is mocking you, but do not forget that the car does not have its own decision-making center, and this is all on-board computer. Maybe he really has a wicked sense of humor. The simplest way to diagnose its performance is to simply replace one device with a similar one that is known to be working. The only problem may be getting another computer, but you don’t need it forever, you can just borrow it from a friend, simultaneously enlisting his services as an assistant, since he is so generous: what if the breakdown is in the machine, and not in the electronic brains , then extra hands will come in handy. If this error appears very often, you can try updating or changing the computer firmware. To do this, it is better to contact a specialist.

This error appears most often in winter, when the battery under the hood freezes. If the car starts after this, you can breathe easy: the likelihood of a false alarm has increased. But it didn’t disappear completely! To move forward, let's find out what kind of malfunctions may be hidden behind the P1602 code.

  • the voltage of the on-board network has weakened;
  • the power supply is almost running out;
  • the network lacks power due to overload by extraneous devices;
  • there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring;
  • violation of the integrity of the terminals or the circuit itself;
  • one of the sensors to which the computer is connected is faulty.

Experts say that due to the initially low durability, the most common reason is the latter, failure of the sensors. They are inexpensive even by today's standards, so they are easy to replace; most importantly, do not confuse an outdated sensor with a working one!

Visually check the integrity of the wiring, reconnect the terminals, it is better to clean all contacts, even those that you do not suspect. This in itself can at least temporarily rid your VAZ-2114 of this error. Check the battery and its charge. If you don’t feel confident, you should entrust the generator diagnostics to professionals.

Elimination methods

Methods for eliminating error p1602 directly depend on the reason why it was formed in the memory of the electronic control unit. However, before performing the steps listed below, it makes sense to programmatically reset the error. If there are no visible breakdowns, then it is quite possible that the error “Court Controller, loss of supply voltage” was generated accidentally.

We list possible solutions to the problem in the same sequence as the reasons that caused them:

  • Battery . Use a normally charged battery that holds a charge well and also has the appropriate capacity suitable for a particular vehicle (this is especially true for winter, when difficult engine starts are expected). Periodically check the charge level, electrolyte density, the quality of the terminal contacts on the battery, and if necessary, clean and lubricate them. Clean the contacts on the wires in the same way. If possible, you can check the battery leakage current. Sometimes an action that helps get rid of the error is to remove the negative wire from the battery for about 5 minutes (a few seconds is not enough), and then quickly put it on and set it in such a way as to ensure tight contact between the wire and the battery terminal. It is also advisable to first clean and lubricate the contact.
  • Generator . It makes sense to double-check the operation of the diode bridge, check the voltage at the terminals (on most modern passenger cars the corresponding value should be about 13.7...14.0 V). Check the ground of the generator and, if necessary, inspect the wire and corresponding contacts. Similarly, clean all accessible contacts on the generator, as well as tighten them. You can also re-stripe the wires and make new contacts to improve their quality. Clean the base of the generator mount and the engine block at the point of contact. In some cases, tightening the alternator belt helps (especially if it slips and whistles); if the belt is significantly worn, it is better to replace it with a new one. In rare cases, the generator is completely replaced.
  • Alarm . Regarding the alarm system, it is advisable to consult with the employees who installed the alarm system on the car, or find documentation for it on the Internet and find out whether it disconnects the battery from the system as protection or not. If yes, then you will have to come to terms with this error, or, as a last resort, change the alarm system to another one without a similar function.
  • Short-term voltage drop . Usually in this case, this error is simply reset programmatically from the ECU memory. It should not be restored in the future.
  • "Mass" of the ECU . Check the quality of the ground; if it is damaged, restore the integrity of the contact and/or wire. The chip may be damaged.
  • Ground connection between body and engine . Inspect the wires and contact connections; the tips (if any) may be damaged. If necessary, test the wire with a multimeter to check for continuity or damage to the insulation. If the wire is broken or damaged, it must be replaced with a new one. In this case, it is advisable to use tips.
  • Fuse box . Check the contacts in the block. Moreover, both coming from the battery and internal ones, directly on the fuses themselves. If necessary, tighten the contacts, remove oxides, and lubricate. It is especially necessary to check the fuse that goes to the electronic control unit, as well as its seat, the quality and cleanliness of the contact, and if necessary, inspect and clean it. It is also advisable to check the condition of the contacts in a special block under the hood. To do this, it is better to use a special contact cleaner.
  • Electronic control unit . If there is such a possibility, it is advisable to install an ECU of the same model with the same firmware version on the car. At the same time, check whether voltage is coming to the supply terminal of the control unit and what its value is. However, it is best to seek help from official dealers or a car service that repairs electronic “brains,” since reflashing or changing settings yourself can be fraught with big problems.

Other automaker definitions for P1602

  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) / Traction Control System (TCS), CAN Data Bus - Communication Failure (GM).
  • Battery Voltage Monitor - Malfunction (Toyota).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) - Low Battery Voltage (Volkswagen).
  • Engine control module (ECM) - low battery voltage (Audi).
  • CAN Data Bus - Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) / Traction Control System (TCS) (Buick).
  • CAN Data Bus - Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) / Traction Control System (TCS) (Cadillac).
  • CAN Data Bus - Anti-lock Brake System (ASS) / Traction Control System (TCS) (Chevrolet).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Unprogrammed (Chrysler).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Unprogrammed (Dodge).
  • Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Serial Communication Problem (Hyundai).
  • ECM communication with ABS - circuit malfunction (Isuzu).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Unprogrammed (Jeep).
  • Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Communication Lost (Kia).
  • Battery voltage monitoring - malfunction (Lexus).
  • Immobilizer control module/engine control module (ECM) - communication error (Mazda).
  • ECM for LSI system - communication failure (Mitsubishi).
  • CAN Data Bus - Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)/Traction Control System (TCS) (Oldsmobile).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) Unprogrammed (Plymouth).
  • CAN data bus. Engine Control Module (ECM) Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)/Traction Control System (TCS) - Signal Malfunction (Pontiac).
  • Engine control module (ECM) - faulty (Saab).
  • CAN Data Bus, Anti-Lock Brake System (ASS), Traction Control System (TCS) to Engine Control Module (ECM) - Lost Communication (Saturn).
  • Engine Control Module (ECM) - Programming Error (Subaru).
  • Electronic Throttle System (ETS), Throttle Return Spring - Malfunction (Volvo).

Sources used:

  • https://kody-oshibok.ru/avtomobili/vaz/oshibka-1602-na-avtomobilyakh-vaz.html
  • https://vaz-2114.info/oshibka-1602-na-vaz-2114/
  • https://elm3.ru/diagnostika/oshibka-p1602

The intellectual capabilities of such a computer

Even though the on-board computer for the Lada Priora does not have any special brains, the device can significantly make life easier for the car owner. Each manufacturer has its own characteristics and features, so anyone can choose an assistant to suit their taste. Various displays, functions, controls, designs. What benefits can this device provide?

  1. Monitoring and controlling vehicle sensors.
  2. Quite long battery life.
  3. Displays the quality of fuel entering the gas tank.
  4. Monitoring the temperature of antifreeze and the ability to control the cooling system.
  5. Engine speed sensors.
  6. When the gas system is installed, the computer can switch the “gas/gasoline” mode.
  7. Many different diagnostic protocols.
  8. Control of parking radars and headlight modes.
  9. Built-in tachometer, external and engine temperature sensor, econometer and other amenities.

All this can be viewed and controlled using the screen that every good car computer should have. If any system does not work or does not work correctly, an error message will appear on the screen. Agree, it’s nice when the seemingly wordless Lada Priora directly tells you what exactly is wrong. This time we are interested in error 1602.

Chevrolet Niva error codes: decoding and description of meanings

The popular Russian-made model is very widespread in the CIS countries due to its optimal cost and increased cross-country ability, which is critically important in the conditions of domestic operation. Motorists buy cars for off-road travel and small towns, where the quality of roads leaves much to be desired.

The disadvantages of the car include weak wiring - when the load increases to the design limit, on-board electronic systems often fail, which causes software failures. Chevy Niva error codes appear on the dashboard display or are detected using special equipment, but the common thing is that they all indicate a malfunction of a specific component.

Chevrolet Niva error diagnosis

The most reliable way to identify what is wrong with a car is to diagnose electrical appliances and equipment. The procedure allows you to accurately identify breakdowns and quickly repair your car.

There are two ways to detect a problem in a car.

The simplest procedure allows the motorist to independently identify the damaged area and repair the damage. Thanks to the successful firmware of the on-board computer, some errors are displayed on the standard display. In this case, nothing happens on its own - you will need to perform several steps manually:

If the manipulations are correct, one of the indicated codes will appear on the display, and each Niva Chevrolet error number will be responsible for its own section of the highway:

At the same time, you need to accurately understand that, for example, when error 10 is on the display, the Chevrolet Niva tells the driver that there are several problems (standard, unambiguous codes are summed up).

You should also know that Niva Chevrolet self-diagnosis errors do not reflect the exact location of the breakdown. Codings can only show the section of the wiring where you need to look for the cause of the malfunction. Also, these encryptions may be the result of a software failure after an unsuccessful wash or disconnection of the battery. To obtain more accurate data, the user needs to connect a special diagnostic scanner.

Diagnostics using third-party equipment

More precisely, errors on Chevy Niva can be identified by connecting additional equipment. The technique is more technically complex, but allows us to determine the cause of a breakdown or failure with minimal error. In this case, the sequence of actions is as follows:

If all actions are performed correctly, all available information and any errors in the form of encrypted codes will be displayed in the desktop window.

There are also specialized scanners designed specifically for Chevrolet NIVA. Dealer devices are connected to the place of the standard signaling unit through an output cable.

Separately, we should highlight modern devices designed to connect a smartphone to a car, while reading encodings and controlling operating modes occurs directly from the gadget’s display.

At the same time, you should know what the encodings displayed during diagnostics mean. The code consists of several elements.

The next element is a single digit:

The following digit determines the exact serial number of the line in which the defect was detected:

The most popular Niva 21214 errors and methods for eliminating them

Engine error codes (P0000)

Note!

Chevrolet Niva on-board computer errors found in this way reflect the most accurate state of affairs at the current time.

Chevrolet Niva error reset

The standard procedure for resetting the controller occurs only after all faults have been completely corrected, otherwise annoying encryption will appear again. The procedure is performed in two available ways.

The most common Niva Chevrolet computer errors are found in 90% of car diagnostic cases. There are also a large number of rare failures that are not included in the list due to their low prevalence.

Where is the P1602 sensor located?

The image above shows the ECU connector of an Audi Q7, terminal 30 is circled.

It should be noted that this code does not refer to the voltage at terminal #30 as shown here, but to the various and multiple terminals in the connector that should have a certain voltage across them when the ignition is turned off. Therefore, the presence or absence of power at terminal No. 30 (as shown here) when the ignition is turned OFF should NOT be taken as evidence of failure or malfunction unless the manual for the vehicle in question explicitly states that the specified voltage should or should not (depending on depending on the circumstances) be present at this terminal when the ignition is turned off.

Updated Lada Largus: modified engine and prices

AVTOVAZ has opened orders for updated Lada Largus vans and station wagons: for now they can only be placed online, but dealers will soon be connected. When ordering on the website, the car is reserved for free for three days, and if you make an advance payment of ten thousand rubles - for an indefinite period. The cars have been in production since the beginning of February, so they are expected in showrooms soon.

Largus has been transformed: the front part of the body is completely new - with a signature X-face. There were different headlights (almost the same as the current Renault Logan/Sandero models) with separate running lights, a radiator grille, a hood and front fenders. Other rear-view mirrors (with built-in turn signals) and a shortened roof antenna also appeared. The new interior is unified with that of the first generation Renault Duster crossover. The updated Largus has the same front panel, console and door trim, but its steering wheel (from the XRAY Cross hatchback), and the design of the instruments is made in the style of other Lada models.

Sound insulation has been improved, and options include a media system with a seven-inch screen (previously Largus was content with simple push-button “music”), a rear view camera, heated windshield and second-row seats, cruise control, light and rain sensors. The steering wheel now has heating and buttons. The power window control keys moved from the center console to the doors, and the seat heating buttons moved from the base of the seats themselves to the console (this solution was tested last year on a special version of the Largus Cross Quest). Finally, new front seats with improved lateral support have appeared, and a right driver's armrest has been added. Alas, the presence of side airbags was not confirmed, and the Largus still does not have a stabilization system.

But the basic eight-valve 1.6 engine has been modified. It has a modernized connecting rod-piston group and crankshaft, as well as a modified gas distribution mechanism. Power has increased from 87 to 90 hp, and 80% of the maximum torque is available at 1000 rpm. Another achievement is that the need to adjust the valves before the vehicle reaches 90 thousand kilometers is eliminated. Sixteen-valve 1.6 with 106 hp. former.

Of course, after restyling, Largus became more expensive. The basic van has added 30 thousand rubles and now costs at least 686 thousand. The station wagon has become 22 thousand more expensive: now they are asking for at least 691 thousand rubles. At the same time, there was a formal rearrangement in the trim levels: the simplest Standard (with black bumpers) was excluded from the range, the Classic version became the basic one, but in terms of equipment it now almost repeats the previous “standard” version. There is one airbag, ABS, audio preparation, on-board computer and central locking with remote control, and on the second row there are only two headrests.

The price of the seven-seater Largus has increased significantly: if the pre-restyling station wagon with a third row cost from 748 thousand rubles, then for the updated one you need to pay at least 818 thousand rubles. But the set of equipment for the “elevated” version of Largus Cross has been expanded. Previously, only two fixed versions were offered, but now different option packages can be selected for the two options. True, if earlier they asked for a minimum of 829 thousand for Cross, now - from 866 thousand rubles.

The richest Lada Largus Cross in the Luxe Prestige configuration has two airbags, a third row of seats, fog lights, a heated steering wheel, windshield and seats in the first and second rows, air conditioning, a rear view camera, rear parking sensors, cruise control and 16-inch alloys. wheels. Price - 982 thousand rubles. Before restyling, the most expensive passenger Largus cost 898 thousand.

Loss of voltage in the power supply circuit of the VAZ 2114 controller

I (21103) also got error 1602 after charging the battery. Everything works except the fuel pump, it is silent. But even if the pump died, why is there such an error?

Check relays and fuses.

The fuses have been checked, even the relays have been swapped (they are identical side by side). The relay clicks when the ignition is turned on, but the pump is silent. It looks like the pump died (standing in the garage?). But why does the computer display error 1602? Is this somehow related?

I don’t remember exactly now, but it seems the fuel pump fuse is next to the fuse. ECU, i.e. behind the right cover of the “beard”, and not in the CN. There's a blue block down there. Have they been checked too?

I don’t remember exactly now, but it seems the fuel pump fuse is next to the fuse. ECU, i.e. behind the right cover of the “beard”, and not in the CN. There's a blue block down there. Have they been checked too?[/quote]

Yes, I checked - they are there together (fuse and fuel pump relay).

Yes, and also, I don’t understand, the car won’t start? If it doesn’t start, after turning on the starter, in theory (although not always) more errors should pop up. Have you looked at them all? And the terminal, as I wrote, was reset?

The car won't start. The pump does not buzz. The computer shows error 1602. The terminal was reset several times, including for a long period of time. There is no pressure in the rail (checked through the valve). There are 4 wires on the fuel pump block (I didn’t find a description of this block on the electrical diagrams): red, brown (or dirty gray), black and white, blue and red (in order from left to right). When the ignition is turned on, about 12 volts appear between red and black and white. All the signs seem to be that the pump itself died (suddenly). BUT WHY (even if he died) DOES THE COMPUTER GIVE ERROR 1602? I don't understand.

I don’t remember exactly now, but it seems like the fuse The car won’t start. The pump does not buzz. The computer shows error 1602. The terminal was reset several times, including for a long period of time. There is no pressure in the rail (checked through the valve). There are 4 wires on the fuel pump block (I didn’t find a description of this block on the electrical diagrams): red, brown (or dirty gray), black and white, blue and red (in order from left to right). When the ignition is turned on, about 12 volts appear between red and black and white. All the signs seem to be that the pump itself died (suddenly). BUT WHY (even if he died) DOES THE COMPUTER GIVE ERROR 1602? I don't understand.

The fact is that error 1602 is called “Loss of mains voltage” and appears when the battery terminal is removed (or when the controller is removed). Those. It is impossible to reset it by removing the battery terminal! It has nothing to do with a non-working fuel pump. Question for clarification: Does the fuel pump relay activate when the ignition is turned on? or cranking the engine with the starter?

The fact is that error 1602 is called “Loss of mains voltage” and appears when the battery terminal is removed (or when the controller is removed). Those. It is impossible to reset it by removing the battery terminal! It has nothing to do with a non-working fuel pump. Question for clarification: Does the fuel pump relay activate when the ignition is turned on? or cranking the engine with the starter?

The fuel pump relay is activated, i.e. clicks when the ignition is turned on. When the starter is turned on, whether it fires or not, I don’t know, I haven’t checked. To eliminate any malfunctions with this relay, I replaced it with a similar one (the main relay is the ignition relay). The result has not changed.

The fact is that error 1602 is called “Loss of mains voltage” and appears when the battery terminal is removed (or when the controller is removed). Those. It is impossible to reset it by removing the battery terminal! It has nothing to do with a non-working fuel pump. Question for clarification: Does the fuel pump relay activate when the ignition is turned on? or cranking the engine with the starter?

No, what the error is called and why it appears is clear to everyone (it was already written above). When I disconnected the battery, it disappeared (though not every time, sometimes I had to disconnect the battery again).

And you can probably check the fuel pump only by connecting it directly to the battery here: https://automan.by.ru/vaz/010/el102.shtml there is a diagram of its connection, or look in your Murzilka, otherwise the colors of the wires are poorly visible in the internet diagram . You can try connecting the wires to the pump block, and then to the battery for 1-2 seconds (but not the other way around, so that there is no spark at the tank). And you will find out everything.

if the fuel pump relay is triggered, then look at its power contact, is there any + if so, does + appear on the pump connector on the gray wire, if not, then most likely the signal blocking relay is somewhere, apply directly + to the gray wire

Finally started up. By the way, I made a whole discovery for myself: the presence of 12V voltage (according to the voltmeter) at the fuel pump connector does not mean anything. The voltmeter shows 12V after turning on the ignition (4-5 seconds until the relay operates), the 12V light (working) on ​​these contacts does not light up. When connecting the pump directly to the battery, everything works. Further searches led to a thorough check of the fuel pump relay and fuse, tightening the ground bolts on the engine. And when this did not help, I had to pay attention to the alarm. Although it was turned off. Numerous switches on and off, with or without sound, with switching to “Valet” mode and exiting it, did not yield anything. Everything worked as expected. And only a thorough check of the alarm relay (the relay brand is “Saturn”) revealed that if 12V is supplied to the relay, it always clicks, but the light bulb connected to it sometimes does not light up, and sometimes it does not light up immediately, but after some fractions seconds. There were 10 percent of such incorrect responses. After installing a jumper on the relay, the fuel pump started working and the car drove. I went to the car service center. Today, for 2.5 hours, the car service specialists racked their brains (they didn’t install the alarm), removed my jumper, came to the conclusion that it was better to replace the relay, checked and cleaned all the contacts of the accompanying relays and fuses, tightened everything up and returned the car. It starts as before, with half a turn. No obvious faults were found. For the work they performed, they charged me 208 rubles on a receipt. That's the whole epic for now.

A little about codes

A big problem with VAZ products is imperfect self-diagnosis. Very often, even fairly simple faults related to the battery or generator are presented as a serious breakdown of the power plant. For this reason, you should not rush to a car service for repairs. Initially, you need to try to identify the malfunction yourself and, if it is not particularly serious, fix it on the spot.

It is known that in most cases the codes are related to the readings of sensors installed on the car, which are essentially the eyes and ears of the on-board computer. Therefore, first of all, you should make sure that the control devices are working properly.

The problem, however, is greatly aggravated by the following - quite often the codes issued have nothing to do with the breakdown that occurred. In particular, this happens too often in cars manufactured by VAZ.

However, according to professionals, this happens largely due to the installation by car owners of components produced unofficially. However, the sensors themselves remain fairly simple devices, from which you should not expect high accuracy in any case.

Meanwhile, not everyone can afford to use spare parts produced exclusively by official suppliers. Many note that in most cases their prices are clearly inflated.

The following reasons may cause the ECU to issue a particular error code:

  • failure of one of the sensors while maintaining the functionality of the node it controls;
  • low-quality fuel, poorly flammable - this leads to improper operation of the power plant;
  • clogging of both air and fuel filters;
  • incorrect flashing of the controller with homemade software;
  • a failure occurred in the ECU itself (as practice shows, this problem occurs most often);
  • transferring the car to gas, without replacing the on-board computer program.

Moreover, many VAZ-2114 owners do not consider it necessary to refuel their car at branded gas stations and prefer cheaper options, because they know that the engine of their car can easily cope with the lowest quality fuel. However, the ECUs in the VAZ are too delicate and are not ready to silently tolerate this state of affairs.

In this case, it often turns out that when flashing, they install the latest software, which contains several hundred codes, which are often displayed inadequately.

Self-diagnosis

Once the main code errors have been studied, you can perform self-diagnosis of the car. The Lada Priora has a special controller that allows you to perform diagnostics. If an on-board computer is installed in the car interior, then diagnostics are performed with its help. In addition, there is special equipment that allows you to more accurately perform this procedure.

Diagnostics begins with activation of the test mode. The procedure is performed as follows:

  1. Turn off the ignition and hold down the mileage reset button, then turn it on again without releasing the button.
  2. When the ignition is turned on, all components located on the instrument panel will begin to glow. All devices will begin to move to the maximum mark, and then back. This behavior of the car indicates the beginning of the diagnosis.
  3. Next, we move on to the right steering wheel switch, on which there is a button for switching the settings of the on-board computer. After clicking on it, an information message with the software version will appear on the screen.
  4. After pressing the button again, error diagnostics will begin. Error codes will appear on the display, which can be deciphered using the corresponding table.
  5. Once the diagnostics are complete, you can reset the error data. To do this, hold down the mileage reset button for five seconds.
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