Instructions for changing the oil in a manual transmission yourself

If a person is not a very experienced driver and he has a vehicle with a manual transmission, then he often has a lot of questions about servicing his “iron horse”. One of these questions will be the following: rules for changing oil in a manual transmission.

In this article we will consider all issues related to this topic.

When is it necessary to change the oil in an automatic transmission?

Some car manufacturers position automatic transmissions in their models as maintenance-free. This means that the replacement of technical transmission fluid is not provided for according to the regulations and the box will last 150 thousand km, after which it will require a major overhaul, during which new oil will be filled. But from service practice it is clear that changing the oil in an automatic transmission after 50–80 thousand km extends the life of the unit to 200,000–250,000 km.

Condition of the technical fluid if it is not changed

Other car manufacturers directly indicate in the operating instructions that the transmission fluid needs to be changed every 60 thousand km. The following signs while driving may indicate the need for an unscheduled replacement:

• the box “kicks” when switching;
• there are significant delays when changing to an upshift or downshift;
• extraneous noise is heard from the automatic transmission (howling, knocking, humming);
• It is impossible to engage reverse gear.

To further determine the condition of the oil, you will need diagnostics to check its level and temperature, as well as the pressure in the box. The level is marked by a dipstick or control hole, and other parameters are indicated by special instruments.

If the color of the lubricant is dark, opaque and gives off a burning smell (friction discs burn), then an unscheduled oil change in the automatic transmission will be required, regardless of the distance traveled.

If you continue to operate with the old ATF fluid, the existing chips in the sump can get stuck in the valve body channels and damage the torque converter. This will disrupt the operation of the automatic transmission and the box will go into emergency mode. You will be able to continue driving only at low speed, or you will even have to call a tow truck. Overhauling an automatic transmission will require a lot of money. Alternatively, you will have to replace the complete unit. It is better not to let the car get into this state and perform maintenance on time.

What kind of oil to fill in manual transmission

Using a certain brand prevents major gearbox repairs. In terms of technical parameters and purpose, transmission lubricant is similar to engine lubricant. That's why front-wheel drive cars used to have engine oil poured into the gearbox. But today special transmission fluids have been developed for them.

Their main difference is viscosity, which is visible even visually. Transmission oil is much thicker. Before pouring engine oil into the box, you need to determine whether such a replacement is allowed and how it will affect the technical parameters of the car in general. Motor lubricant is cheaper in cost, but if you fill it into the gearbox without the correct selection, the unit may fail.

Gear lubricant is classified by its SAE viscosity system, which measures its thickness. Oils for manual transmissions can be all-season, summer or winter. Based on the load on the gears, the lubricant is classified into types GL-4, GL-5. The most popular are the first ones, which are suitable for high speeds and heavy loads. The second type is used mainly for pouring into drive axle housings.

Preparation

You can change the oil at a service station or do it yourself. To change the oil in an automatic transmission yourself, you will need an inspection hole or overpass. You can ask a friend to go to his garage. Overpasses are often located near garage cooperatives, where a security guard will allow you to use it for a small fee.

Changing the oil in an automatic transmission involves removing the pan and filter. Some people wash the old filter in gasoline or kerosene and reuse it, but this should not be done.

Reduced filter capacity can lead to problems with the box. You can choose the right new filter based on the year of manufacture and make of the car. The manufacturer’s website also contains information about the automatic transmission itself (series, number), which will make the task easier (some Japanese or German-made gearboxes are installed on different brands of cars, so you can find a filter that suits your automatic transmission, although it is intended for a different car).

Need a new filter and gasket

In preparation, purchase a pan gasket. Surely the old one is already roughened or has cracks. When dismantling the pallet, it often breaks. A new gasket will ensure the housing is sealed and will eliminate ATP fluid leakage, leading to a drop in level. The drain plug has a copper washer, which often becomes deformed and worn off during operation. You also need to buy it to replace it. On the official website of the car manufacturer there are recommendations on which oil according to SAE viscosity to pour into the box and in what volume. Also take care of the keys for unscrewing the pan plug, dismantling the filter, removing the pan itself and the automatic transmission radiator pipes (the latter is needed if the complete replacement method is chosen).

Gentle partial oil change with draining through the drain plug and filling through the dipstick

It is best to change the oil in an automatic gearbox in an inspection pit or overpass. Many garages have inspection pits, and many garage cooperatives have overpasses. To change the oil in the gearbox using this method, you will need oil, a measuring container to measure the amount of oil drained, and a small funnel for filling in the oil.

• Before changing the oil, it is advisable to drive the car 5-10 kilometers so that the oil warms up and becomes more fluid.
• Place the car in a pit or drive it onto an overpass, move the gear selector to neutral, and put the car on the handbrake.
• Unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the automatic transmission housing.
• Place a measuring container and drain the predetermined amount of oil.
• Add the same amount of new oil through the automatic transmission dipstick hole using a small funnel.
• Check the oil level in the automatic transmission, if necessary, bring it to the normal value.

How to drain oil from an automatic transmission

The main difficulty when changing ATF fluid in an automatic transmission is draining the waste. Unlike a manual transmission, there is a complex hydraulic unit with a torque converter, containing many narrow channels inside for oil circulation.

With most methods, it will be possible to drain the waste only partially, and only a complete hardware replacement will remove the old transmission fluid without any residue.

But, regardless of the chosen method, you will need to drain the waste from the pan. Let's consider the procedure and existing options.

Popular brands:

Hyundai Santa Fe, Mitsubishi Pajero, Skoda Octavia

Draining oil through the plug

The easiest way. If your car has a drain plug on the automatic transmission housing, then:

1. Drive the car 5 km to warm up the engine and transmission.
2. Place the car on a pit, overpass or lift.
3. Prepare a bucket or cut canister with a capacity of at least 5 liters.
4. Unscrew the drain plug with a wrench (usually a tetrahedron). Unscrew it further with your hands, holding it from the side and not from the bottom.
5. Abruptly remove your hand with the stopper, exposing the container.
6. When the waste has finished dripping, the old oil is considered almost drained - you will also need to dismantle the pan and filter.

Draining used oil through the drain hole

Draining oil through the dipstick

There are cars where the drain plug is not provided. Changing the oil in an automatic transmission is possible here by pumping out the old ATP through a channel with a dipstick. To do this, use a transparent tube from a dropper, purchased at a pharmacy. Remove the dipstick and insert the tube in its place. Lower it to the very bottom of the tray. Attach the free end from the outside to the syringe. The larger the capacity of the latter, the better.

Pumping out oil with a syringe

By extending the rod, a vacuum is created and ATF is pumped out of the pan. You need to act measuredly, since the mining is thick and moves slowly. To pump out 4 liters the process will need to be repeated about 30 times. To make the procedure easier, third-party manufacturers have developed a vacuum pump. It connects to the battery terminals and pumps old ATP from the sump through the dipstick hole into a substitute container. Everything happens quickly and easily, but you will have to spend money on equipment.

Pumping out used oil with a pump

Removing the box tray

Another way to change the oil in an automatic transmission is to remove the old one by immediately removing the pan with the filter. It's a dirty job, but it saves time. The heated car is placed on the pit and the bolts holding the automatic transmission pan are unscrewed. You will need to install a large basin at the bottom of the hole. First, a gap is created on one side of the body and the waste is drained from it. When it does not drip, the bolts are completely unscrewed and the pan with the remaining liquid is set aside. It contains a filter and a magnet that accumulates chips. The magnet is washed and the filter is replaced with a new one. Changing the oil in an automatic transmission is easier this way, since you don’t need to bother with a syringe and tube or buy a vacuum pump, but it’s impossible not to get dirty.

Removing the pan and filter

How to check the transmission oil level

Equipment needs constant monitoring of its condition (to avoid unpleasant moments). The level of transmission lubricant must be monitored very carefully, since the performance of the gearbox can significantly deteriorate if there is not enough fluid. To correct this situation, it is necessary to add lubricant to the required volume.

The level is checked with a special dipstick, which is located under the hood of the car. Typically, the volume control tool is red.

Before checking, you need to drive about 10 km so that the automatic transmission warms up well. Then choose a flat area and stop. Without turning off the engine, set the lever to the “Parking” position and let the engine run idle for about 4 minutes.

Procedure for checking the level using a dipstick:

• remove the tool with the engine running;
• wipe the surface of the probe to remove lint and threads;
• return the tool to its original place, then leave it for 5 seconds;
• take out the dipstick and look at the Hot mark.

If the level is normal, then on the dipstick it will be between o and “minimum”.

There are car models in which the verification procedure is performed differently:

• the dipstick is missing, and the level is visible in the inspection window;
• before starting the test, set the “N” position;
• control is carried out when the engine is turned off.

Oil change methods

Let's look at how to correctly change the oil in an automatic transmission, partially or completely, in what order the actions are performed and where to fill in the new fluid. Understanding the peculiarities of the process, it will be easier to decide whether to do the work yourself or contact a car service.

Partial oil change in automatic transmission: instructions

Modern automatic transmissions contain 6-8 liters of ATF, depending on the make and model. Partial replacement is considered a “refreshment” of the composition, since with this method it is possible to add only 30-40% of new transmission fluid. It's more affordable than a full replacement and takes about 60 minutes. But the effect does not last long - the procedure must be repeated every 15–20 thousand km.

Let's look at the procedure for changing the oil in an automatic transmission in step-by-step instructions:

1. The engine starts and the car is driven for 10–20 minutes so that the internal combustion engine and gearbox reach operating temperature. This will help increase the fluidity of the lubricant.
2. The car drives into a pit.
3. The underbody protection is removed.
4. Use a square wrench to unscrew the plug in the pan.
5. Place a container and drain the old grease.
6. The pan is dismantled and the old filter is removed from it. The magnet is cleaned.
7. A new filter and gasket are installed. The pallet returns to its place.
8. New ATF fluid is poured through the dipstick hole or breather to maintain atmospheric pressure. The level is set between the minimum and maximum marks.

After removal, the tray needs to be cleaned

Recommendations for car enthusiasts. To set the level correctly, you need to “drive” the box through all gears. This will fill the couplings with ATP fluid and expel the air.

The advantages of this method: you can do everything yourself, it will take 1 hour, a volume of 3-4 liters of transmission fluid for an automatic transmission is inexpensive. The disadvantages include: the need to repeat the process after 15,000 km, there may be delays during switching, hum, the life of the box is extended, but only slightly.

Transmission oil change intervals

Transmission oil is replaced when the additive package loses its performance characteristics and efficiency. As a result, the components do not provide the necessary protection to functioning surfaces. Foam begins to form on the substance, and in some cases the main gear seizes. All this can lead to the appearance of an unpleasant gear hum in the gearbox differential. The humming gets stronger over time and, eventually, after a run of about 500 km, the gear teeth begin to break down. The result is that the gearbox jams. As a rule, this applies to all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles.

Models with rear-wheel drive and a manual transmission allow you to use transmission oil without problems for 10–20 thousand km longer. At the same time, it retains its properties, since there are no significant temperature loads on the gearbox. Change the oil at the same time as replacing it in the gearbox. This procedure is needed to eliminate contaminants that form during the operation of gears. Along with the lubricant, chips and other debris are removed from the gearbox housing during draining.

The transmission oil change interval is once every 60 thousand km. If your driving style is intense (that is, rapid acceleration and sharp braking), then the lubricant must be changed every 40 thousand kilometers. Moreover, these recommendations should be followed regardless of the total mileage.

There are car models whose gearbox housing is not equipped with a drain plug. Therefore, lubricant is poured into them for the entire service life.

In the modern automotive industry, CVT transmissions have become very popular. Despite their belonging to the automatic type, the internal structure is different. CVT gearboxes operate under severe temperature conditions, so instead of the usual lubricant used for automatic transmissions, a special one is poured into them.

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Transmission fluid in CVTs is replaced after 50 thousand km. If aggressive driving is expected, the period is reduced to 30 thousand km. You should strictly adhere to the recommendations for replacing CVT fluid, because additives lose their properties very quickly. This is due to the fact that the variator belt is constantly under heavy load and operates in harsh temperature conditions.

Complete automatic transmission oil change: instructions

It is possible to completely replace the transmission fluid, but this is a more expensive process. But it gives a significant improvement in the operation of the box. Let's look at how ATP changes using hardware and manual methods to choose the appropriate option.

Method No. 1

This method is suitable for self-replacement in a garage with a pit. Everything is done as in the situation described above: the old lubricant is drained, the pan is cleaned, a new filter and gasket are installed, and fresh ATP is filled in according to the level. After driving about 200 km in normal operation, the procedure is repeated (the filter and gasket no longer need to be changed, but only washed and cleaned).

Since when draining by gravity or sucking with a syringe, it is possible to extract about 40% of the lubricant from the automatic transmission, adding fresh transmission fluid to the level only dilutes the composition. At the first change, the ratio of new and old oil in the box is 40/60%. When replacing again - approximately 70/30%. With the third - 85-90/15-10%. Replacements are not performed more than three times in a row - it is not financially feasible.

The advantages of the method include:

• the ability to do everything yourself in a garage;
• no expensive equipment required;
• You only need to pay for ATP (the filter and pan seal are purchased once for the first replacement).

But this method is time-consuming - every 200 km you will have to remove the underbody protection, drain the used lubricant, and fill in new one. Not everyone has the time to do this type of maintenance every week. 100% replacement is not possible. Therefore, let's consider other methods.

Method No. 2

A complete automatic transmission oil change with your own hands is possible if you use the pressure in the box to pump out waste. To do this, all actions are performed as in the case of a partial replacement (draining, replacing the filter and cleaning the pan). Then fresh ATF is poured into the box to the very top (until it flows out of the filler hole). The supply and return lines are disconnected from the transmission cooling radiator and the ends of the hose are lowered into a container (12 liter basin, bucket, etc.).

Connection diagram of the automatic transmission to the cooling radiator

The engine starts and the pressure in the box begins to build up and the transmission fluid begins to circulate. With this method, waste is forced out of the torque converter and valve body naturally. When about 4 liters have drained, turn off the engine and add more fresh ATP. The engine starts again and the system continues to bleed. Noticing the light color of the lubricant at the output, the process stops. All that remains is to attach the hoses to the radiator pipes, set the level and drive the car in different modes for the test.

With this method, natural circulation in the unit is used to pump the system without the help of additional equipment. You will only have to pay for consumables and the volume of technical fluid - 7-9 liters. The entire procedure is carried out in one go - there is no need to perform repairs every week. But there are also disadvantages: the operation is quite complicated and scary for a beginner - you can do something wrong and damage the node.

The most common mistake is the ATF level in the pan being too low, which leads to air being sucked in and running dry.

This can damage the clutch pack, planetary gear or torque converter. Repairs will be expensive.

Method No. 3

The most effective way is hardware replacement. This is the displacement of old lubricant by pumping new lubricant through the system under pressure from a special station. The automatic transmission oil change scheme using modern equipment looks like this:

1. The car is driven onto a lift, where the protection is dismantled and the waste is drained.
2. The pan is removed, cleaned and a new gasket with filter is installed. Everything returns to its place.
3. The supply and return pipes of the radiator of the box are unscrewed.
4. They are connected to hoses from the station, which is already filled with 10–12 liters of new ATP.
5. The engine starts and the device begins to supply fresh transmission fluid to the box. The hydraulic unit pumps it and it comes out through the pipe, but instead of the radiator it ends up outside and drains into a receiving container.
6. Through the transparent tube you can see what color the liquid is. When it becomes identical to the new lubricant, the process is stopped and the level is set.

Hardware oil change in automatic transmission

The good thing about this method is that it provides 100% replacement through displacement. The torque converter and valve body are washed. The quality of service can be seen immediately by the color of the lubricant pouring out. Transmission performance improves: it becomes quieter, shifts faster, and the ride becomes smoother. Drivers note a reduction in fuel consumption. But there are also disadvantages: you will need a large volume of 11–12 liters of transmission fluid, half of which is spent simply on flushing. The replacement device is expensive and not available in every service station, not to mention garage workshops. In some unscrupulous car service centers, they may take 12 liters of technical fluid, but fill only 6 liters, appropriating the rest for themselves. Sometimes they forget to install a filter or replace the gasket.

Recommendations for car enthusiasts. To check the quality of a complete replacement, ask to be present during the service - normal service stations will not refuse this. Also drop a little ATF from the dipstick onto the paper - the new one will be red, and the old one will be black or cloudy.

The main role of oil in gearboxes

Each unit of the mechanical transmission and chassis operates without failures, thanks to the excellent interaction of the mating elements. Gearbox oil is designed to ensure reliable adhesion between the metal surfaces of parts of working mechanisms.

Working in conditions of elevated temperature, the gear teeth of the gearbox quickly wear out, lose strength, and the likelihood of tooth breakage increases sharply. In this case, it may be necessary to radically change the gearbox.

Manual transmission oil is a viscous lubricant. In contact with metal parts, lubricant molecules envelop the rubbing surfaces of the mechanisms. A unique protective layer is formed on the mating elements. When the gear teeth engage, thanks to the oil film:

• no scoring or cracks are formed;
• ensures smooth, reliable grip;
• gearbox efficiency increases;
• the service life of the vehicle transmission increases.

The use of transmission lubricants does not lead to a deterioration in the strength, technical and operational characteristics of the internal mechanisms of manual transmissions.

Replacement at a service station

Service stations practice partial replacement and complete renewal of the composition of the ATP transmission fluid, which is chosen by the client himself. As a rule, high-quality lubricants of different viscosities are already available, so you only need to bring a filter to your car model. But some services also have consumables for popular car brands in stock in order to save car owners’ time as much as possible.

If the client chooses the partial method, then the waste is removed through the drain hole (if provided by the car manufacturer) or pumped out through the dipstick.

When completely updating the composition with washing, modern equipment is used. They are universal and suitable for all car models. Some are equipped with very simple controls with start and stop buttons. The quality of washing is determined by a fragment of a transparent tube attached to the front panel of the stand.

Other versions of service equipment are equipped with a screen and programs for each make and model of car. They are programmed with the volume of lubricant and other operating parameters that ensure the highest quality replacement of the technical fluid in the box. Bench displacement is considered the best today for servicing automatic transmissions. With it, the resource of the node is extended to 200–250 thousand km. The procedure takes 2–3 hours, but it will need to be done once every 50,000–60,000 km.

What do car enthusiasts say about the advisability of changing transmission oil after break-in?

1. They forcibly changed the oil in the manual transmission at 30 thousand km “I have a Toyota with a manual transmission. The official representative, citing the break-in factor, forcibly filled in new oil at a mileage of 30 thousand. I demanded that they issue a bulletin from Toyota.”
2. After break-in, so many chips accumulate there.
   “It is necessary to change it after break-in, since a lot of chips accumulate, which affects the ball bearings.”

How to add oil to an automatic transmission

You can add fresh ATP fluid during a partial change or to achieve the desired mark after a complete update in several ways, depending on the design features of the automatic transmission.

Fill the oil through the dipstick

The simplest method, since most cars with automatic transmission have a dipstick. You will need a flexible hose from a medical IV and a funnel attached to its other end. All actions are performed from above in the engine compartment.

Through the breather

The pressure control valve can also be used to supply fluid to the automatic transmission. You will need a flexible hose with a diameter of 8–10 mm and a funnel. You won't be able to fill it directly because wires and other parts in the engine compartment get in the way.

Automatic transmission breather

Pumping oil from below through the control

There is a bolt on the side of the automatic transmission housing that plugs the inspection hole. This is one way to set the level in models without a dipstick. After unscrewing it, ATF fluid is supplied through the hose with a large syringe. Work is carried out from below from the inspection hole.

Changing the oil in the automatic transmission extends the life of the key component of the car. If there is no time and money, a partial update of the composition is performed. But it is better to perform a hardware shake with flushing to avoid costly repairs of the automatic transmission in the future.

Changing transmission oil in mechanics: tools and procedure

Before work you need to prepare:

• key or head (size 17 mm);
• 5 liter bottle or canister;
• plastic bottle (1.5 l);
• work clothes, including a pair of gloves;
• knife;
• jack;
• safety stand for the car;
• transmission oil (at least 3.5 l);
• rags;
• metal brushes.

If your garage floor is made of concrete or steel, you should cover it with a sheet of plywood.

A lift is required. Most car owners do not have a lifting mechanism in the garage, so a regular inspection pit or overpass is suitable for changing transmission oil.

You need tools (standard repair kit), dishes to drain the used substance into, and a syringe for pouring transmission oil into the container.