Malfunctions of the ignition switch Kalina

The day before yesterday in the morning, I’m getting ready to go to work, I get into the Kalina, turn the ignition key... and the key turns past the “Starter” position. The engine started. Realizing that something wrong had happened, I tried to turn the key back, but no such luck, the key does not turn in any direction. I pulled the key out of the lock and the car continued to work. I inserted/took out the key several times, tried to turn it back and forth - all to no avail.

I understand that it’s not worth driving to work, in case the steering wheel bites on the road. And then how to start it? But first you need to turn it off. I didn’t immediately remember about fifth gear and the sharp clutch, so I reached under the hood and pulled the wires off the ignition coils. The engine stalled, but the ignition remained on. I removed the terminal from the battery and ran to work on foot...

I'm researching the Internet - I'm not the first to have this problem. The reason is a broken return spring. The springs are not on sale separately, but they can be taken from the new model VAZ-2108/2109 ignition switch, which costs much less than the Kalinovsky one. Replacing the lock will be accompanied by replacing the cylinders in the doors, because... Kalina has the same key for all the locks.

The next problem is removing the ignition switch. It is mounted on 4 bolts with shear heads. Those. you will have to unscrew it with the help of a chisel, a hammer and some mother...

In practice, everything turned out to be somewhat simpler than it seemed; working with a chisel turned out to be not so difficult. A couple of hours and the lock is removed.

I disassembled the lock - everything turned out to be exactly as they write on the Internet. The return spring broke, the key turned further, and the locking ball fell into the groove of the steering shaft lock, blocking the key.

Second day. After work I go shopping in search of spare parts. It was impossible to walk further than the first store I came across, so I stopped there. There are no springs for sale. There is a lock from Kalina for 890 rubles (and on the Internet they wrote that in 2011 it cost 1200 rubles, apparently spare parts for Kalina do not increase in price, but fall, which is good news. But remembering that the same spring is in the VAZ lock - 2108, I also inquired about this lock. It turned out that it also exists and costs 360 rubles! Visually it looks exactly like the Kalinov lock, differing only in the plastic lining on the cylinder and the connectors. I decided to take the figure-eight one.

At home I disassemble the lock, and here it is! It's exactly the same spring! I moved it to the old lock, lubricated it and assembled it. I checked it with the key, it works fine. It's time to put it on the car.

Removing and disassembling the ignition switch

We remove the ignition switch to replace its assembly, as well as to replace the contact group of the switch or the APS coil.
Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. We remove the steering column switches (see “Removing the steering column switches”). The heads of the ignition switch mounting bolts are cut off. That's why.. . Unscrew them using a chisel. Loose bolts can be removed using pliers.

Remove the bracket from the steering column.

. and the ignition switch. Use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the clamp of the APS coil wire block.

. and disconnect the coil wire block from the APS block wire block.

Pressing the pad lock. ..disconnect the ignition switch contact block from the wiring harness block.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws.

. and remove the ignition switch bracket.

We take out the locking rod of the anti-theft device. Turn the key in the ignition switch.

. and remove the locking rod drive. Remove the rod spring from the drive.

. and a stopper with a spring. Push the cylinder out of the switch body.

. and remove the locking ball.

Remove the cylinder from the switch body.

We remove the locking ball spring from the hole in the cylinder.

Prying it with a screwdriver. ..we disengage the two plastic latches of the wire block cover.

. and open the lid. We mark the wires located in the block.

Using a thin awl or stiff wire, bend the locking tendrils of the wire tips.

. and remove the wires from the block.

Remove the insulating tube from the wires.

Squeeze the three plastic latches with a screwdriver. ..remove the contact group from the body.

. and bring the wires out through the holes in the housing.

Prying it with a screwdriver. . disengage the three plastic latches.

. and disconnect the contact group.

Remove the moving part of the contact group.

By pressing the moving contact and turning it counterclockwise.

. remove it from the body.

Remove the contact spring.

. remove the APS coil. We assemble and install the ignition switch in the reverse order. We install the moving part of the contact group as follows.

. so that the wide protrusion of the moving contact is located opposite the protrusion on the cover with the fixed contact. . and the protrusion on the lock cylinder should fit.

. into the recess on the body of the moving part of the contact group.

Tool:

Multimeter
Chisel
Large hammer
Narrow nose pliers
Straight box spanner 10 mm

Parts and consumables:

Tear-off bolts (4 pcs.)

In the power supply circuit for most of the vehicle's electrical equipment, except for the emergency, sound and light alarms, the canopy lighting, side lights, the brake signal, the security alarm and the electric door locks, voltage is supplied through the ignition switch.

To increase the car's anti-theft properties, the switch is combined with a lock, which is why this device is more often called an ignition switch. The lock body is attached to the steering column with four special bolts with break-away heads.

At a certain tightening torque, the bolt heads come off, and after that it becomes impossible to unscrew the bolts with wrenches.

The ignition switch is additionally equipped with a steering shaft locking mechanism. Once the key is removed from the lock, the spring-loaded latch is released. When you try to turn the steering wheel, the latch locks the steering shaft from turning.

How to disable the immobilizer with your own hands?

It is possible to temporarily disable the immobilizer, which may be necessary when installing an auto start alarm.

To install the bypass system, use:

Control unit with built-in key or label. Used to insert a key or chip into a device that is located on the back of the dashboard. When autostart is activated, the signal relay activates the unit and the engine starts, bypassing the main circuit.
Immobilizer bypass blocking. A separate control device is installed that simulates an ignition key with a microcircuit.

Another way to disable the immobilizer on Kalina depends on the type of ECM (control unit).

Bosch M7 4 block

Before you start working on a car with a Bosch M7.4 unit, you need to prepare:

a computer or laptop with Winflashecu v.1.14 preinstalled (the distribution is available for free download);
k-Line adapter and cable, for example VAG-COM 409.1;
pre-loaded software for the unit with disabled immobilizer support;
several strands of different lengths.

To disable the immobilizer on Kalina, you need to do the following:

Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals and disconnect the wiring harness assemblies from the engine control module under the hood of the vehicle. To disconnect, you must remove the top protective cover and remove the flat connector block. All work is performed on a large block. There is no need to disconnect the unit from the unit.
We insert the wire into contacts A4 and B2 on the side of the harness. These cables will be used to provide an additional 12V positive voltage source. To do this, they are connected to the battery terminal via an intermediate switch.
Install the connector and close the latch.
Connect the adapter to the diagnostic connector located inside the car. The connector is located under a plastic cover installed on the center console.
In your computer settings, set the baud rate to 38400 bps.
Launch the Winflashecu application and select the port number, speed (38400 bps) and M7 block type in the dialog box. 4. “No connection” will be written in the lower right corner of the window.
Apply additional power to pins A4 and B2.
Turn on the ignition. The "No Connection" notification should change to "ECU Communication" and the buttons to start operations will become active.
Read the EEPROM (device software) data and save it to your computer's hard drive.
Select the new software and load it into the block memory using the "Write EEPROM" button.
Wait until the download is successful.
Close the program and turn off the ignition.
Disconnect the auxiliary power cables.
Check whether the car can be started with a key without a chip. The immobilizer symbol will illuminate on the instrument cluster upon startup and will go out after a few seconds.

Bosch block 7 9 7

When installing the Bosch 7.9.7 control unit (Euro 2 standard), it is necessary to modify it by welding a resistor. It is best to entrust this task to someone experienced in soldering small electronic components. Next, the block is “stitched” according to the procedure described above.

Block January 7 2

In the case of ECM type January 7.2, the procedure looks completely different.

Before starting work you need to prepare:

K-Line adapter, for example BM9213;
computer or laptop with ChipLoader 1.97.7 installed;
soldering iron with a power of 25-40 W;
solder and rosin;
wires and switch;
resistor with a resistance of 3.6 to 5 kOhm;
plugs for connecting cables to the control unit;
12 V battery (standard or from an uninterruptible power supply);

To remove the immobilizer from the unit you must:

Disconnect power from the vehicle's on-board network and remove the ECU.
Wrap the block body with insulation.
Assemble the diagram from the photo.
Connect the adapter to your computer.
Use the toggle switch to simulate turning on the ignition.
Launch the application and establish a connection with the device.
Read the unit's factory data and save it to your hard drive.
Read the EEPROM and click the "Remove IMMO" button. Wait until a confirmation window appears with the text “Immobilizer removed successfully.”
Close the application.
Turn off the ignition with the toggle switch.
Before installing the control unit on the car, turn off the signal from the immobilizer. If the lock from the IMMO unit is removed, you need to close the contacts with numbers 9 and 18 in it.

Block January 5 1

To disable the immobilizer in the January 5.1 block, it is necessary to unsolder and reprogram the EEPROM flash memory. It is not recommended to do this operation alone, but rather to do it in a workshop, since in the process of completing the task you will need a programmer and a hot air gun for welding.

Design

The lock consists of mechanical and electrical parts. Briefly about the design of each of them:

The mechanical part is a cylindrical mechanism, which can only be turned with a key designed specifically for it. In addition, this includes an anti-theft latch that prevents the steering wheel from turning.
The electrical part consists of terminals and contacts that close accordingly with each turn of the key. For this purpose, it is connected to the lock mechanics. There are only three contacts. One of them, the thirtieth, is supplied with plus directly from the battery. The remaining two (15 and 50) are intended to turn on consumers and the starter, respectively. To limit the current through the fiftieth contact, a relay is included in its circuit. The starter is powered through its contacts, and not through the Kalina ignition switch.

The immobilizer antenna is located in the decorative ring covering the 3Z. It responds to the transponder of the key inserted into the lock. The immobilizer recognizes only its own unique signal and gives permission to the control unit to start the engine.

Where is the immobilizer located on Kalina?

The immobilizer control unit on the Lada Kalina is located deep in the instrument panel in the area of the central air duct of the microclimate system. The loop antenna for the signal reader is located in the ignition switch. The chip itself is built into the head of the key and is automatically read when the key is inserted into the lock.

Device access

To access the block you will need the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver
plastic screwdriver for removing decorative elements on the panel;
cardan extension and Phillips head (for block removal).

The sequence of disassembling the panel based on Kalina 1 without air conditioning:

Disconnect the battery from the vehicle's on-board network.
Open the ashtray and unscrew the four screws securing the housing, remove it from the socket.
Remove the two plugs located on the sides of the panic button.
Unscrew two more mounting screws located under the covers.
Remove the temperature and airflow direction rotary switches.
Pull the central pad towards you and remove it from the latches.
Disconnect electrical connections from trim-mounted components.
Remove the standard unit, secured in the plastic housing under the central air duct with two screws.
Disconnect the electrical wiring plug from the unit by pressing the latch.

The photo shows the main stages of unlocking the immobilizer on a VAZ Kalina.

ZZ malfunctions

Most often, damage to the Kalina ignition switch is associated with its mechanical part. In this case, it is impossible to turn the key to the desired position. A malfunction does not arise, as they say, out of the blue. As a rule, frequent jamming of the key is observed over the course of several months, which is eliminated by rocking it in the cylinder.

Rarely, there are cases of failure of the electrical component of the Lada-Kalina ignition switch. Basically they come down to a lack of contact when turned on. This is typical only for locks with a long service life. True, there is another common reason for burnt contacts - the car owner himself.

When installing additional equipment, the owner of the car does not take into account that the maximum permissible load on contact is 15, only 19 amperes. This is quite enough for regular consumers, but the lock can no longer withstand additional light and sound devices, especially those installed at home. The contacts begin to spark and eventually fail. Therefore, when installing additional equipment, it is necessary to use an additional relay to power it.

Bottom line

Replacing the ignition switch generally takes a little over an hour. To perform this work, you do not need fundamental knowledge or special auto mechanic equipment; you just need a little attention, careful study of simple instructions and a basic set of tools, such as a chisel, screwdrivers and a wrench. We hope that with this article we helped you save money on a car repair shop. We wish you good luck and good performance of the new ignition switch!

The ignition switch is an important component of a car. It controls the power supply and allows the engine to start. In Kalina, this element fails quite often. Replacing it is not difficult.

Symptoms of a problem

The main symptoms of 3D damage are most often obvious:

The Kalina ignition key does not turn. You should not think that it can only jam in the “0” position. Sometimes, on the contrary, the car cannot be turned off because the key does not return to the neutral position.
A number of devices do not work, including the indicator lamps on the panel do not light up.
The starter does not turn.
There are constant interruptions in movement, with the disappearance of readings from control devices.
The instrument panel lamps light up after several turns of turning the key in one direction or the other.

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
Turn off the ignition. The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.

Repair or buy a new one

There is no clear answer to this question. The fact is that it is very difficult to find a new contact group on the Kalina ZZ, in contrast to the classics, Samara and the tenth family. Therefore, you have to repair it, which without experience, skills and desire is not the best idea. Most often, owners install a new ZZ by purchasing it assembled.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the Kalina ignition switch has an immobilizer that will not respond to the new key and the car will not be able to start. Of course there is a way out. You can retrain the immobilizer for a new key. In this case, you will also have to change the cylinders on the door locks.

You can do it easier - carry two keys with you. True, it is not clear whether it is worth keeping them on one bundle. Therefore, the most reasonable thing would be to make a new “tip” and install it on the old key. By the way, it may be included in the delivery of a new lock.

Resynchronization of remote control codes

In cases where the remote control buttons are pressed outside the range of the radio channel, the “floating” code counter in the remote control goes out of synchronization with the counter in the system control unit. If the number of button presses outside the signal reception area of the system exceeds 1000, the system stops responding to remote control commands. In this case, the remote control training procedure should be repeated.

Updated August 01, 2013

Due to the increasing number of cases of lost training (master) keys for car owners of Kalina, Priora, Grant, Niva-Chevrolet, we are introducing a new type of service: registration of working keys in these cars, without a master key!

Usually in such cases, it is necessary to change a set of blocks: ECU (electronic engine control unit), APS unit, glass control unit, ignition switch complete with door cylinders and new keys, etc.

Now in our company you can register a working key with buttons without a training key, and for an additional fee you can receive a new training (red) key for your car. For this procedure, you need to come by car and leave it while the work is being carried out. The work includes dismantling the necessary units (ECU, APS, etc.) from the car, programmatically changing the data, installing the units on the car and registering the keys. We emphasize that a key registered in this way will cost more than registering the remote control yourself if you have a training key, but naturally cheaper than buying and replacing a set of blocks with new ones.

Update January 05, 2014

Attention! It is now possible to make a duplicate chip for autostart using a working key with remote control buttons! A master or training key is not required. The chip obtained in this way can be used both for installation in the immobilizer bypass unit to implement autostart, and for everyday use, starting the engine of Lada Kalina, Priora, Niva-Chevrolet cars

Such a duplicate is more expensive than a regular chip, which can be registered using a master key, but this is a real solution in cases where the master (training) key is lost

To create a duplicate, you need a car, a working key with remote control buttons (and it doesn’t even matter if it is partially faulty, for example, the buttons don’t work, etc., the main thing is that the ignition key starts the engine). The entire copying procedure takes 10-15 minutes.

Replacing the ignition switch

As always, if the work involves electricity, you need to start by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. The tool you will need is a shaped screwdriver and a small chisel. You must purchase an ignition switch in advance. In this case, you need to take into account the presence of an immobilizer. If everything is ready, you can proceed to replacement. The sequence of actions is as follows:

After unscrewing the five bolts, remove the decorative steering column cover. The screws are different, so it’s better to remember which one was placed where. In addition, to remove the casing, you need to lower the steering column adjustment knob.
The ignition switch is secured to two clamps, secured with bolts that cannot be unscrewed with a key. Therefore, you will have to use a chisel. You need to rest it against the cap and unscrew it with careful but rather strong blows until it becomes possible to do it with your hands. That is, you should not cut off the bolt with a chisel, but use it as an analogue of a key.
Thus, you will have to unscrew all 4 screws.
The lock will remain hanging on the wires.
We disconnect the electrical connectors, and the ignition switch can be easily removed.
Installation is carried out in reverse order.

It is worth noting that this sequence of actions is similar for all modifications of the car, including the ignition switch of the Kalina 2, produced since 2013.

General information

The purpose of the Kalina ZZ is no different from other cars - turning on the ignition and controlling the engine starter. It is equipped with a mechanical interlock and protection against restarting the starter without turning off the ignition. This allows you to protect the flywheel crown and bendix from accidental turning of the key. There is also electronic protection in the form of an immobilizer, the antenna of which is integrated into the 3Z.

The Kalina ignition switch has 3 positions, each of which is described in the table.

Position	Consumers
0	Side lights, radio, hazard warning lights, brake lights, courtesy lamp
1	Car ignition system, low and high beams, heater, washer and wipers, turn signals, fuel pump.
2	Starter

The key can only be pulled out in the zero position. In order not to forget it in the lock, when the engine is turned off, an audible alarm is provided, which turns on simultaneously with the opening of the driver's door.

Causes of breakdowns

Faulty contacts are a common cause of ignition switch failure.

Being an electromechanical device, the ignition switch of the Lada Kalina most often fails for the following reasons:

Due to sudden surges in voltage, contacts burn out. At the moment the unit is started, there is a sharp increase in temperature in the system, which leads to burnout of the insulating layer.
Oxidation of contacts due to increased dampness in the interior can lead to breakdown.
Mechanical damage . Exposure to dust and dirt, manufacturing defects and careless operation lead to increased wear of the unit.