How to get to the engine starter in Kalina-2

In a car, the starter is a very important component. It ensures that the engine starts by rotating the crankshaft for the first few revolutions. This is necessary to begin the process of ignition of the mixture in the chambers.

Today we will consider this unit applicable to the popular Russian model Lada Kalina. We'll tell you where it is and how to remove it.

Design

The Kalina starter is an electric machine operating on direct current, powered by a battery. During operation, the starter consumes a large amount of current and, if malfunctioning, can often discharge the battery.

The main parts of the starter: armature, rotor, bendix, brushes, retractors. Failure of one of the elements leads to failure of the starter.

How to get rid of unnecessary details

Under the hood of the Kalina-2 it is easy to find an air filter module that prevents access to the unit we need. This module must be moved to the side, but first the air intake sleeve must be disconnected.

Black box – filter module

The sleeve itself, attached to the bottom of the module, is simply pulled in the “left” direction. The whole process looks like this:

Remove the sleeve from the pipe

Just in case, here is a drawing of the node in question:

Filter module design

The figure shows the connector installed on the top of the module. The plug from this connector is also first disconnected, but first, the negative terminal is removed from the battery. Why do this, we discussed earlier. It turns out that there will be three preparatory steps: disconnecting the battery terminal, removing the sleeve from the filter side, disconnecting the plug.

Theoretically, replacing the starter looks easier if the air duct sleeve is disconnected on both sides (on Kalina 2 it covers the caps of the mounting screws). This statement is illustrated by the figure:

Engine starter for Kalina-2/Granta

We will have access to nuts “2”, but we will have to reach for the screw heads. However, there is nothing special here. Now, let’s remove the plastic module from the clamps:

Three rubber clips hold the filter module in place

After completing all the steps discussed, the module can be moved to the side.

Last step before dismantling the starter

Principle of operation

When voltage is applied to the starter by turning the key in the car's ignition switch, current flows simultaneously to the solenoid relay and the starter itself. The starter begins to rotate, and at this moment the solenoid relay moves the moving part of the bendix to the engine flywheel, thereby starting to rotate the engine by the crown on the flywheel, after which the engine starts, the ignition key is released, the current on the starter and solenoid relay disappears, thereby stopping the starter and moving the bendix away from the flywheel.

How to replace the starter on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119?

Removal: 1) At the very beginning of the operation, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, because the starter is an electrical device and if you work with it and voltage is applied to it, you may burn out the wiring or everything on it its insides will burn and thus it will become completely unusable. (For information on how to disconnect the minus terminal from the battery, see “here in this article” in the first paragraph)

Note! By the way, using a wrench or a screwdriver (In general, anything can be used, but it must be metal and the handle must be insulated with electrical tape), if you bridge the bolt and the starter terminal as shown in the video below (the minus wire must be connected to the battery), then you your car will start, but often you don’t need to do this only in extreme cases!

2) Then you will need to remove the mudguard from the engine, to do this, climb under the bottom of the car and you will see two mudguards there (Right and Left), but if you have a crankcase protection, then you will have to remove it completely, so when you get To access both mudguards, you will need to remove only the left one (In the direction of travel of the car), to do this, using a wrench, first unscrew the two bolts that secure it to the body spar (see photo 1), then unscrew four more bolts, two of which are held together both parts of the mudguard are interconnected (these bolts are indicated by the letter A), and the other two fasten the left mudguard to the body cross member (they are indicated by the letter B).

Note! If you don’t want to mess around with the bottom, then read the article entitled: “Replacing the air filter housing on the Lada Kalina”, it will show how the housing can be removed (Remember we said earlier that you can also replace the starter on top, but you just need to remove it to This is the air filter housing which is located above!

Symptoms of a problem

The starter is not a very complex mechanism and has a small number of parts that fail. Most often, problems with the starter arise due to the following breakdowns:

• The contact brushes are worn out - this happens due to prolonged use of the starter on the car and most often occurs around 100,000 km. mileage This procedure can be easily corrected by replacing the brushes.
• Failure of the solenoid relay - the solenoid relay is one of the weakest parts of the starter and fails at different times, regardless of anything. With such a breakdown, the starter rotates, but does not engage the flywheel.
• Bendix failure - Bendix is ​​a mechanism reminiscent of an overrunning clutch that rotates in one direction, but jams in the other.
• Broken stator or armature winding.

All reasons except a winding break are easily corrected by replacing the elements with new ones, but if a winding break occurs, it is better to replace the starter with a new one.

Replacing the starter yourself

To replace the starter on Kalina on your own, you do not need any complex manipulations, but just a minimum of tools will be enough.
To make repairs more convenient, it is better to remove the air filter housing to gain free access to the starter. This is written in detail here. Of course, you can do without this, just crawl under the car and unscrew the protection, but I chose a longer, but more convenient option. To remove and install the starter, you will need a 13-size open-end or socket wrench, as well as a ratchet with a 13-size head for greater convenience.

How to start a car without a starter

If the starter on your car is faulty or the battery is dead, then the car can be started in other ways.

You can try to start the car from a tow, from a hill, etc. turning on the ignition and second gear, this method is relevant for both a dead battery and a broken starter. These manipulations can only be performed with a manual transmission.

If the starter rotates but does not turn the engine, then the solenoid relay is most likely faulty. With such a malfunction, the engine can be started quite simply, just turn on the ignition and bridge the contacts on the solenoid relay, as shown in the picture, and the engine will start.

Prices for the original Lada Kalina starter can reach or even exceed 4,000 rubles. There are a large number of analogues on the market at prices starting from 2000 rubles, but the quality of such parts leaves much to be desired.

When is a starter check required?

During operation, the device may malfunction, and therefore the engine will be unable to start. The Lada Kalina car unit is characterized by the following signs of malfunction, suggesting the need for removal and diagnostics for the purpose of further repair or replacement:

• turning on the starter is accompanied by the shutdown of other devices operating at that time;
• when the device starts, reduced crankshaft speeds are observed, which is not enough to fully start the engine;
• turning the ignition key does not activate the starter;
• the unit shows signs of “viability”, but the motor flywheel does not rotate.

Next we will tell you how to remove and replace.

Replacement

To replace the starter, you need to prepare a special tool that will be needed during the work process.

Required tool:

• Screwdrivers, flat and Phillips;
• Ratchet with heads for “13” and “15” mm;
• Open-end wrenches for “10” and “13” mm;

Step-by-step replacement instructions

• We turn off the power from the solenoid relay; to do this, unscrew the power cable with a key and disconnect the connector.

• Using a ratchet and an extension, unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the gearbox housing.

We perform assembly in reverse order.

Starter repair in a Lada Kalina car

In most situations, disassembling a unit in the Lada Kalina model for the purpose of repair is carried out to replace such elements as:

1. brush holder in combination with brushes;
2. traction relay;
3. drive components.

Naturally, repair procedures are carried out on a removed device. How to remove it correctly?

Let's sort it out.

1. We take the spike at “13” and unscrew the nut that secures the lower contact bolt of the traction relay, after which we remove the wire tip.
2. Using a screwdriver (Phillips), we “defeat” a pair of screws holding the retractor relay block. We remove the element.
3. We remove the spring along with the armature from the front cover of the relay.
4. Disconnect the housing from the front cover. Here you will need to unscrew a couple of tightening bolts (key set to “8”).
5. From the released housing we remove the armature together with the brush holder and the end cover.
6. This cover is removed by unscrewing two screws with a screwdriver. The bearing seat contains a wavy spring washer.
7. The brush holder itself must also be dismantled, after which the brushes are removed.
8. We move on to the planetary gearbox, from which we remove the cover.
9. Now we remove the three satellites and the rubber plug.
10. We press the end of the drive shaft with our finger, and then remove the drive assembly located in the front cover.
11. We arm ourselves with two screwdrivers, with which we open the eyelet present on the support, and then remove the drive lever.
12. We use a wooden block against which we rest the end of the ring gear.
13. We apply the grips of the open-end wrench (size - “13”) to the ring that limits the travel of the drive gear. We hit it with a hammer, forcing the ring to compress in this way.
14. The locking ring must also be removed. We use a flat screwdriver.
15. Next, we dismantle the gear travel limit washer.
16. We remove the overrunning clutch assembly with the drive gear.
17. Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the corresponding groove on the shaft.
18. We also remove the washer.
19. We pay attention to the ring gear in the planetary gearbox, which we pull off the drive shaft.
20. We proceed to dismantling the bearing. To do this, we use the previously designated metal plates. We insert them between the bearing itself and the armature commutator, and then rest it on a vice. Use a hammer to carefully impact the end of the shaft (a drift will be required) until the bearing is completely pressed.

This completes the disassembly procedure.

Next, we inspect the commutator and armature winding. There should be no charring here. If it is present, then use fine sandpaper to “correct the situation.” When the burning is intense, there is no alternative to changing the anchor.

If we find scratches or material coating on the shaft journal, we also use “all-conquering” sandpaper, after which we polish the treated areas.

We arm ourselves with an ohmmeter to check the short circuit between the core and the windings. We pay attention to the ends of the windings - their soldering to the lamellas must not be damaged. Blackening of the winding or separation of varnish insulation from its surface is not allowed.

If the brushes are worn out, then replace the holder assembly.

The assembly of the starter assembly is carried out according to the reverse algorithm of actions.

Starter for viburnum 8 valves which is better

This product completes the line of starters for VAZ, and we are pleased to announce that from now on we offer a full range of starters for VAZ and GAZ cars!

LSt 0118 2111-3708010-10 (5702.3708-10, 5121.3708)

for VAZ 2113-2115, 1117-1119 "Kalina" with 8-valve engine (reinforced gearbox)

Specifications:

Starter starting speed, rpm 2800 Crankshaft starting speed, rpm 200 Rated voltage, V 14.6 Rated power, kW 1.55

StartVOLT starters are superior to analogues in the number of successful engine starts and in reducing energy consumption by 30-50%!

Achieved by increasing the number of stator poles to 6 units: MAGNETIC5 technology

Unique design advantages of all StartVOLT starters:

Current collection brushes

• in current collection brushes, which are used in the starter, bronze-graphite is used as a material - a more durable and reliable material compared to graphite).

Gearbox

• the planetary mechanism is made entirely of metal (unlike analogues, which are made of plastic). • hardened steel with increased wear resistance is used, which directly affects the life of the starter. • the design of the planetary gearbox housing has been improved in order to reduce friction losses and improve the balancing of the gearbox-shaft pair.

Bendix

• heat-treated steel with increased wear resistance is used. • the overrunning clutch has an original design that ensures its increased wear resistance.

Solenoid relay

• by increasing the area of ​​copper contacts, the reliability of the relay increases and power losses are reduced.

The design of StartVOLT starters is patented by the Federal Service for Intellectual Property, Patents and Trademarks of the Russian Federation (“ROSPATENT”) Utility model patent No. 102691 dated November 15, 2010. Recommended retail price – 2,700 rubles.

What is an engine starter

Any gasoline internal combustion engine is equipped with a part called a “starter”. This unit, that is, the starter, is a conventional electric motor. The voltage “+12 Volts” is supplied to it via one electrical cord. The body acts as the second wire.

There is always voltage at the supply terminal

A relay is mounted inside the starter, the contacts of which conduct the supply current. When you need to start the internal combustion engine, the contacts close. Let us immediately note: the voltage on the power wire always remains as long as the battery is charged. Therefore, before dismantling, be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Auto electricians know: when working with any equipment, the battery is completely disconnected from the network. It is easier to do this by disconnecting the negative terminal (you will need a flat key “10”).

If the battery is charged, but the starter does not turn, then first you need to check whether there is voltage at the contacts of the Ka-3 relay. This element is fixed in a single mounting block, and it is called: “Additional starter relay.”

Original Lada Kalina starter and analogues

The first versions of the car were equipped with a KZATE starter with article number 21120-3708010-00.
This model of the starting device was fastened directly to the wall of the cylinder block with 3 bolts. Other starters are also suitable for the car:

• BATE 2109.3708010-01;
• KATEK 21120-3708045-00;
• PRAMO-ELECTRO 2110-3708010-81;
• Valeo 21901-3708051-00 for modification with 8 valves;
• Valeo 21902-3708056-00 for 16-valve version;
• Jatco 21902-3708135 for Kalina with automatic transmission.

Prices for devices vary between 3-4 thousand rubles. Foreign devices, such as Valeo, are somewhat better than domestic ones. But they cost an order of magnitude more. Analogues include products from Febi, Fenox, Glaser, Bremi.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

During operation, the starter may malfunction and require appropriate maintenance. It is not uncommon to have an unsuccessful attempt to start a car engine the first time. Electrical problems are common. In this case, it is customary to talk about damage in the area from the battery to the starter. There may be abrasion of the brushes or breakdown of the armature coil, lack of charge in the battery or loosening of its terminals, damage to the ignition switch cylinder. These malfunctions lead to the following situations:

• the rotor turns slowly;
• there is no reaction when voltage is applied to the starter;
• the starter does not rotate, although the retractor clicks;
• other functioning components are switched off when the starter is turned on.

Mechanical failures are also inherent in the starter on the Lada Kalina: damage to the flywheel or pressure spring, as well as damage to the shaft or defects.

Characteristic signs of problems with the starting device:

• starting the engine only after several unsuccessful attempts - there are many reasons, but the most common is contamination of the internal elements of the device;
• lack of cranking or reduced crankshaft speed - the bendix or other part of the drive is faulty;
• cranking the electric motor with difficulty - wear of the brushes, wear out of the bearing;
• the electric motor continues to rotate after starting the power unit of the machine - the spring is stuck or jammed, the contacts are stuck, the traction is faulty, the bearing is worn out;
• Starting the engine is accompanied by loud noise - wear on the flywheel crown or incorrect installation of the starter.